Relevant bibliographies by topics / Ocean waves Wave motion, Theory of

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Academic literature on the topic 'Ocean waves Wave motion, Theory of'

Author: Grafiati
Published: 4 June 2021
Last updated: 1 February 2022

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Journal articles on the topic "Ocean waves Wave motion, Theory of"

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Kim, Mun Sung, Kwang Hyo Jung, and Sung Boo Park. "WAVE INDUCED COUPLED MOTIONS AND STRUCTURAL LOADS BETWEEN TWO OFFSHORE FLOATING STRUCTURES IN WAVES." Brodogradnja 69, no. 3 (2018): 149–73. http://dx.doi.org/10.21278/brod69309.

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As oil or gas field moves deeper offshore area, offshore offloading operations such as Tandem or Side-by-Side arrangement between two floating structures take place in many locations throughout the world and also have many hydrodynamic problems. Therefore, the researches on the motion response and hydrodynamic force including first and second order between two floating structures are needed to have the more safe offloading operability in waves. In this paper, prediction of wave induced motion responses and structural loads at mid-ship section with hydrodynamic interaction effect between two offshore floating structures in various heading waves are studied by using a linearized three-dimensional potential theory. Numerical calculations using three-dimensional pulsating source distribution techniques have been carried out for hydrodynamic pressure distribution, wave exciting force, twelve coupled linear motion responses, relative motions and wave loads of the barge and the ship in oblique waves. The computational results give a good correlation with the experimental results and also with other numerical results. As a result, the present computational tool can be used effectively to predict the wave induced motions and structural loads of multiple offshore floating structures in waves.
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Fouques, Sébastien, Harald E. Krogstad, and Dag Myrhaug. "A Second Order Lagrangian Model for Irregular Ocean Waves." Journal of Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering 128, no. 3 (2005): 177–83. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/1.2199563.

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Synthetic aperture radar (SAR) imaging of ocean waves involves both the geometry and the kinematics of the sea surface. However, the traditional linear wave theory fails to describe steep waves, which are likely to bring about specular reflection of the radar beam, and it may overestimate the surface fluid velocity that causes the so-called velocity bunching effect. Recently, the interest for a Lagrangian description of ocean gravity waves has increased. Such an approach considers the motion of individual labeled fluid particles and the free surface elevation is derived from the surface particles positions. The first order regular solution to the Lagrangian equations of motion for an inviscid and incompressible fluid is the so-called Gerstner wave. It shows realistic features such as sharper crests and broader troughs as the wave steepness increases. This paper proposes a second order irregular solution to these equations. The general features of the first and second order waves are described, and some statistical properties of various surface parameters such as the orbital velocity, slope, and mean curvature are studied.
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Xiang, Gong, and C. Guedes Soares. "Incorporating irregular nonlinear waves in simulation of dropped cylindrical objects." Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part M: Journal of Engineering for the Maritime Environment 234, no. 1 (2019): 272–83. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/1475090218825170.

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This study investigates the use of second-order irregular waves for estimating loads on dropped objects. The theory for the irregular nonlinear wave model is integrated into a motion prediction model to simulate the falling process of a dropped cylinder under irregular waves. Through frequency analysis, the simulated irregular waves are transformed into wave spectrum by fast Fourier transform and compared with the target wave spectrum. A good agreement between simulated wave spectrum and target wave spectrum indicates the validity of the irregular nonlinear wave model. The effects of cylinder mass density, wave amplitude and initial wave phase on the trajectory and terminal conditions of dropped cylindrical object are systematically investigated, and the simulated results are compared with those induced by regular waves.
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Beck, Robert F., and Arne E. Loken. "Three-Dimensional Effects in Ship Relative-Motion Problems." Journal of Ship Research 33, no. 04 (1989): 261–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.5957/jsr.1989.33.4.261.

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The total relative motion between a ship and the sea surface, including the effects of the ship motions, the incident waves, the diffracted waves, and the radiated waves, is discussed. The radiated and diffracted wave components are calculated using the theory of Salvesen, Tuck, and Faltinsen (1970) with the zero-speed potentials determined by fully three-dimensional calculations. Comparisons with experiments and other theoretical calculations for a simple mathematical hull form are given. The proposed theory shows significant improvement over slender-body theory for the diffraction component and is equal to or better than strip theory for the radiation component.
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Nikurashin, Maxim, and Raffaele Ferrari. "Radiation and Dissipation of Internal Waves Generated by Geostrophic Motions Impinging on Small-Scale Topography: Theory." Journal of Physical Oceanography 40, no. 5 (2010): 1055–74. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/2009jpo4199.1.

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Abstract Observations and inverse models suggest that small-scale turbulent mixing is enhanced in the Southern Ocean in regions above rough topography. The enhancement extends O(1) km above the topography, suggesting that mixing is supported by the breaking of gravity waves radiated from the ocean bottom. In this study, it is shown that the observed mixing rates can be sustained by internal waves generated by geostrophic motions flowing over bottom topography. Weakly nonlinear theory is used to describe the internal wave generation and the feedback of the waves on the zonally averaged flow. Vigorous inertial oscillations are driven at the ocean bottom by waves generated at steep topography. The wave radiation and dissipation at equilibrium is therefore the result of both geostrophic flow and inertial oscillations differing substantially from the classical lee-wave problem. The theoretical predictions are tested versus two-dimensional high-resolution numerical simulations with parameters representative of Drake Passage. This work suggests that mixing in Drake Passage can be supported by geostrophic motions impinging on rough topography rather than by barotropic tidal motions, as is commonly assumed.
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ALAM, MOHAMMAD-REZA, YUMING LIU, and DICK K. P. YUE. "Resonant-wave signature of an oscillating and translating disturbance in a two-layer density stratified fluid." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 675 (April 6, 2011): 477–94. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112011000309.

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We investigate the nonlinear wave signature of a translating and oscillating disturbance under the influence of ambient waves in a two-layer fluid. The main interests are the generation and features of the far-field waves due to nonlinear wave resonances. We show, using perturbation theory, that free waves on the surface and/or interface can be produced by triad-resonant interactions, a mechanism not obtained in a homogeneous fluid. These occur among the radiated waves due to the disturbance motion (disturbance waves); and between the disturbance waves and free ocean waves (ambient waves). Such resonance-generated waves can appear upstream or downstream, and may propagate away from or towards the disturbance. In realistic situations where ambient waves and disturbance oscillations contain multiple frequencies, numerous resonant and near-resonant interactions at second and higher orders may occur, making the theoretical analysis of the problem intractable. For this purpose, we develop a direct simulation capability using a high-order spectral method, which provides independent validation of the theoretical predictions. Our investigations show that, under specific but realistic conditions, resonance interactions may lead to significant far-field short waves that are more amenable to remote sensing. If the characteristics of the disturbance are known, we illustrate how nonlinear wave resonances provide a mechanism for more precise estimation of ocean stratification properties using surface wave measurements. Finally we show that when a moving disturbance oscillates at multiple frequencies, ensuing multiple resonances may lead to energy spreading across a broader spectrum, resulting in the loss of information about the body motion.
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Evans, D. V., and C. M. Linton. "Submerged Floating Breakwaters." Journal of Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering 113, no. 3 (1991): 205–10. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/1.2919921.

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In this paper we show how a submerged body can, if properly tuned to the incoming waves, reflect an appreciable amount of the incident wave energy by creating waves through its own motion which effectively cancel the incident waves passing over it. A general theory for this phenomenon is described which is applied to the cases of a hinged vertical plate and a submerged tethered horizontal circular cylinder.
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Thorpe, S. A. "The distortion of short internal waves produced by a long wave, with application to ocean boundary mixing." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 208 (November 1989): 395–415. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112089002880.

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The propagation of a train of short, small-amplitude, internal waves through a long, finite-amplitude, two-dimensional, internal wave is studied. An exact solution of the equations of motion for a Boussinesq fluid of constant density gradient is used to describe the long wave, and its distortion of the density gradient as well as its velocity field are accounted for in determining the propagation characteristics of the short waves. To illustrate the magnitude of the effects on the short waves, particular numerical solutions are found for short waves generated by an idealized flow induced by a long wave adjacent to sloping, sinusoidal topography in the ocean, and the results are compared with a laboratory experiment. The theory predicts that the long wave produces considerably distortion of the short waves, changing their amplitudes, wavenumbers and propagation directions by large factors, and in a way which is generally consistent with, but not fully tested by, the observations. It is suggested that short internal waves generated by the interaction of relatively long waves with a rough sloping topography may contribute to the mixing observed near continental slopes.
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McAllister, M. L., and T. S. van den Bremer. "Lagrangian Measurement of Steep Directionally Spread Ocean Waves: Second-Order Motion of a Wave-Following Measurement Buoy." Journal of Physical Oceanography 49, no. 12 (2019): 3087–108. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-19-0170.1.

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AbstractThe notion that wave-following buoys provide less accurate measurements of extreme waves than their Eulerian counterparts is a perception commonly held by oceanographers and engineers (Forristall 2000, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 30, 1931–1943, https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(2000)030<1931:WCDOAS>2.0.CO;2). By performing a direct comparison between the two types of measurement under laboratory conditions, we examine one of the hypotheses underlying this perception and establish whether wave measurement buoys in extreme ocean waves correctly follow steep crests and behave in a purely Lagrangian manner. We present a direct comparison between Eulerian gauge and Lagrangian buoy measurements of steep directionally spread and crossing wave groups on deep water. Our experimental measurements are compared with exact (Herbers and Janssen 2016, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 46, 1009–1021, https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-15-0129.1) and new approximate expressions for Lagrangian second-order theory derived herein. We derive simple closed-form expressions for the second-order contribution to crest height representative of extreme ocean waves—namely, for a single narrowly spread wave group, two narrowly spread crossing wave groups, and a single strongly spread wave group. In the limit of large spreading or head-on crossing, Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements become equivalent. For the range of conditions that we test, we find that our buoy behaves in a Lagrangian manner, and our experimental observations compare extremely well to predictions made using second-order theory. In general, Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of crest height are not significantly different for all degrees of directional spreading and crossing. However, second-order bound-wave energy is redistributed from superharmonics in Eulerian measurements to subharmonics in Lagrangian measurement, which affects the “apparent” steepness inferred from time histories and poses a potential issue for wave buoys that measure acceleration.
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Smit, P. B., T. T. Janssen, and T. H. C. Herbers. "Nonlinear Wave Kinematics near the Ocean Surface." Journal of Physical Oceanography 47, no. 7 (2017): 1657–73. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-16-0281.1.

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AbstractEstimation of second-order, near-surface wave kinematics is important for interpretation of ocean surface remote sensing and surface-following instruments, determining loading on offshore structures, and understanding of upper-ocean transport processes. Unfortunately, conventional wave theories based on Stokes-type expansions do not consider fluid motions at levels above the unperturbed fluid level. The usual practice of extrapolating the fluid kinematics from the unperturbed free surface to higher points in the fluid is generally reasonable for narrowband waves, but for broadband ocean waves this results in dramatic (and nonphysical) overestimation of surface velocities. Consequently, practical approximations for random waves are at best empirical and are often only loosely constrained by physical principles. In the present work, the authors formulate the governing equations for water waves in an incompressible and inviscid fluid, using a boundary-fitted coordinate system (i.e., sigma or s coordinates) to derive expressions for near-surface kinematics in nonlinear random waves from first principles. Comparison to a numerical model valid for highly nonlinear waves shows that the new results 1) are consistent with second-order Stokes theory, 2) are similar to extrapolation methods in narrowband waves, and 3) greatly improve estimates of surface kinematics in random seas.
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Dissertations / Theses on the topic "Ocean waves Wave motion, Theory of"

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Suoja, Nicole Marie. "Directional wavenumber characteristics of short sea waves." Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2000. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/88473.

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Thesis (Ph. D.)--Joint Program in Applied Ocean Science and Engineering (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Ocean Engineering; and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution), 2000.<br>Includes bibliographical references (leaves 134-141).<br>by Nicole Marie Suoja.<br>Ph.D.
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Kwok, Loong-Piu. "Viscous cross-waves: Stability and bifurcation." Diss., The University of Arizona, 1988. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/184441.

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In the first part of this thesis, the nonlinear Schrodinger equation for inviscid cross-waves near onset is found to be modified by viscous linear damping and detuning. The accompanying boundary condition at the wavemaker is also modified by damping from the wavemaker meniscus. The relative contributions of the free-surface, sidewalls, bottom, and wavemaker viscous boundary layers are computed. It is shown that viscous dissipation due to the wavemaker meniscus breaks the symmetry of the neutral curve. In the second part, existence and stability of steady solutions to the nonlinear Schrodinger equation are examined numerically. It is found that at forcing frequency above a critical value, f(c), only one solution exists. However, below f(c), multiple steady solutions, the number of which is determined, are possible. This multiplicity leads to hysteresis for f < f(c), in agreement with observation. A Hopf bifurcation of the steady solutions is found. This bifurcation is compared with the transition from unmodulated to periodically modulated cross-waves observed experimentally.
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Cohen, Jennifer Esther. "Theory of turbulent wind over fast and slow waves." Thesis, University of Cambridge, 1997. https://www.repository.cam.ac.uk/handle/1810/283717.

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Sun, Haili. "Ray-tracing internal wave/wave interactions and spectral energy transfer /." Thesis, Connect to this title online; UW restricted, 1997. http://hdl.handle.net/1773/10973.

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Larsson, Ashley Ian. "Mathematical aspects of wave theory for inhomogeneous materials /." Title page, table of contents and summary only, 1991. http://web4.library.adelaide.edu.au/theses/09PH/09phl334.pdf.

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Dolven, Eric T. "Seaquake waves - standing wave dynamics with Faraday excitation and radiative loss /." Thesis, Connect to this title online; UW restricted, 2002. http://hdl.handle.net/1773/6785.

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Dally, William R. "Wave transformation in the surf zone." Gainesville, FL, 1987. http://www.archive.org/details/wavetransformati00dall.

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Schlottmann, Robert Brian. "A path integral formulation of elastic wave propagation /." Full text (PDF) from UMI/Dissertation Abstracts International, 2000. http://wwwlib.umi.com/cr/utexas/fullcit?p3004372.

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Decent, Stephen Paul. "Hysteresis and mode competition in Faraday waves." Thesis, University of St Andrews, 1996. http://hdl.handle.net/10023/14054.

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Faraday waves arise on the surface of a liquid in a container that is undergoing vertical periodic oscillations. We investigate two-dimensional Faraday waves in a long rectangular container, both theoretically and experimentally. Hysteresis occurs when both finite amplitude solutions and the flat surface solution are available. We derive a nonlinear model of a standing wave, extending the Lagrangian method of Miles (1976). The model is used to investigate hysteresis. It is found necessary to retain cubic damping, cubic forcing and the fifth-order conservative term in order to achieve agreement with experiments. The fifth-order conservative term was omitted from all previous studies of Faraday waves. Stable limit cycles are found to arise from this single-mode equation. We examine the structure of this new solution in detail, both analytically and numerically. We describe local bifurcations using a multiple time scales analysis and global bifurcations using Melnikov's method. The coefficients of linear and cubic damping are derived for a standing wave in a rectangular container by considering energy dissipation in the main body of the fluid (due to potential flow and streaming) and in boundary layers at the sidewalls and at the surface. Surface contamination, due to the presence of a thin viscoelastic surface film, creates a boundary layer at the surface which causes enhanced dissipation comparable to, or greater than, that caused by the boundary layers at the walls of the container. Three-mode interaction equations are used to model intermittency and complex modulations which are found to arise from a sideband instability mechanism similar to that of Eckhaus (1963) and Benjamin & Feir (1967). The role of cubic and fifth-order nonlinear terms on this instability mechanism is examined. Theoretical results are found to compare quite favourably with experimental data.
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Podo, Smardie D. "Comparison of layering effects in the propagation of transient planar stress waves." Thesis, Georgia Institute of Technology, 1993. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/18378.

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Books on the topic "Ocean waves Wave motion, Theory of"

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Pedlosky, Joseph. Waves in the Ocean and Atmosphere: Introduction to Wave Dynamics. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2003.

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Fennel, Wolfgang. Analytical theory of forced oceanic waves. Akademie-Verlag, 1989.

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Dommermuth, Douglas G. Time series analysis of ocean waves. Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Sea Grant College Program, 1986.

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Diemer, Ferdinand Joseph. A prony algorithm for shallow water waveguide analysis. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1987.

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Ocean in motion! surfing and the science of waves. Capstone Press, 2009.

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Mason, Paul. Ocean in motion!: Surfing and the science of waves. Capstone Press, 2008.

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Frisk, George V. Ocean and seabed acoustics: A theory of wave propagation. PTR Prentice Hall, 1994.

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Larson, Magnus. NMLONG: Numerical model for simulating longshore current. US Army Corps of Engineers, Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, 2002.

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Suoja, Nicole Marie. Directional wavenumber characteristics of short sea waves. Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2000.

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Waves. Macmillan, 1993.

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Book chapters on the topic "Ocean waves Wave motion, Theory of"

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Bondur, Valerii G., Yuliya I. Troitskaya, Ekaterina V. Ezhova, et al. "Surface Manifestations of Internal Waves Induced by a Subsurface Buoyant Jet (Experiment and Theory)." In The Ocean in Motion. Springer International Publishing, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-71934-4_8.

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Trulsen, Karsten. "Rogue Waves in the Ocean, the Role of Modulational Instability, and Abrupt Changes of Environmental Conditions that Can Provoke Non Equilibrium Wave Dynamics." In The Ocean in Motion. Springer International Publishing, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-71934-4_17.

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"Basic Equations for Wave Motion (Linear Wave Theory)." In Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering. WORLD SCIENTIFIC, 2008. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789812813961_0003.

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Kraus, Eric B., and Joost A. Businger. "Atmospherically Forced Perturbations in the Oceans." In Atmosphere-Ocean Interaction. Oxford University Press, 1995. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780195066180.003.0011.

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Kinetic energy flows almost exclusively downward, from the atmosphere into the ocean. The upward flux of energy is thermal, and that will be the topic of our concluding chapter. In the present chapter, we shall deal with the effects of kinetic energy inputs into the ocean. Although this requires some discussion of the different types of oceanic perturbations, our treatment of these topics is necessarily brief and incomplete. We are not concerned with details of the motion pattern in the deeper ocean or with processes involving friction and non-adiabatic mixing in the interior. These processes are essential for an understanding of ocean circulations. They are treated in general oceanographic textbooks and in many monographs that deal specifically with these subjects. Surface stress and air pressure variations produce surface wind waves along with a variety of other wave forms. Most of these waves are relatively slow, with periods that can be measured in hours, days, or even years. The amplitude of internal gravity waves in the oceans is often much larger than that of surface waves and their wavelengths tend to be in the kilometer range. The square of the amplitude-wavenumber product is usually a very small quantity. This makes first order approximations appropriate for many purposes. It justifies use of the hydrostatic approximation and of the linear equations as a basis for the following discussion. To do so, it is necessary to represent the unspecified forcing terms on the right-hand side of those equations in a linearized form. An algorithm for the inclusion of the various atmospheric inputs as a linearized boundary condition in the equations of motion for the ocean is discussed in Section 7.1. Section 7.2 describes a two-layer ocean model. Systems of this type are convenient for the conceptual consideration of atmosphere-ocean interactions, because the wind affects the ocean primarily through action upon the surface mixed-layer. Internal waves, the topic of Section 7.3, are ubiquitous both in the ocean and in the atmosphere. Essentially, sea surface gravity waves can be viewed as internal waves at the interface between two fluids of very unequal density.
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Papadopoulos, Gerassimos. "Tsunamis." In The Physical Geography of the Mediterranean. Oxford University Press, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780199268030.003.0031.

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According to Imamura (1937: 123), the term tunami or tsunami is a combination of the Japanese word tu (meaning a port) and nami (a long wave), hence long wave in a harbour. He goes on to say that the meaning might also be defined as a seismic sea-wave since most tsunamis are produced by a sudden dip-slip motion along faults during major earthquakes. Other submarine or coastal phenomena, however, such as volcanic eruptions, landslides, and gas escapes, are also known to cause tsunamis. According to Van Dorn (1968), ‘tsunami’ is the Japanese name for the gravity wave system formed in the sea following any large-scale, short-duration disturbance of the free surface. Tsunamis fall under the general classification of long waves. The length of the waves is of the order of several tens or hundreds of kilometres and tsunamis usually consist of a series of waves that approach the coast with periods ranging from 5 to 90 minutes (Murty 1977). Some commonly used terms that describe tsunami wave propagation and inundation are illustrated in Figure 17.2. Because of the active lithospheric plate convergence, the Mediterranean area is geodynamically characterized by significant volcanism and high seismicity as discussed in Chapters 15 and 16 respectively. Furthermore, coastal and submarine landslides are quite frequent and this is partly in response to the steep terrain of much of the basin (Papadopoulos et al. 2007a). Tsunamis are among the most remarkable phenomena associated with earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and landslides in the Mediterranean basin. Until recently, however, it was widely believed that tsunamis either did not occur in the Mediterranean Sea, or they were so rare that they did not pose a threat to coastal communities. Catastrophic tsunamis are more frequent on Pacific Ocean coasts where both local and transoceanic tsunamis have been documented (Soloviev 1970). In contrast, large tsunami recurrence in the Mediterranean is of the order of several decades and the memory of tsunamis is short-lived. Most people are only aware of the extreme Late Bronge Age tsunami that has been linked to the powerful eruption of Thera volcano in the south Aegean Sea (Marinatos 1939; Chapter 15).
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"Wave Theory." In Wind Generated Ocean Waves. Elsevier, 1999. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s1571-9952(99)80004-x.

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Parthasarathy, Harish. "Probability Theory and Statistics required for random wave motion analysis." In Waves and Optics. CRC Press, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.1201/9781003162735-4.

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Monica, Paulo, and Sara Cosme. "Does linear wave theory support freak waves?" In Maritime Transportation and Exploitation of Ocean and Coastal Resources. Taylor & Francis, 2006. http://dx.doi.org/10.1201/9781439833728.ch121.

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"WAVE BREAKING, SURFACE MOTION, SURF ZONE, AIR-SEA INTERACTION AND WIND WAVES." In Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering. WORLD SCIENTIFIC, 2004. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789812796615_0007.

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Ting, T. T. C. "Steady State Motion and Surface Waves." In Anisotropic Elasticity. Oxford University Press, 1996. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780195074475.003.0015.

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The Stroh formalism for two-dimensional elastostatics can be extended to elastodynamics when the problem is a steady state motion. Most of the identities in Chapters 6 and 7 remain applicable. The Barnett-Lothe tensors S, H, L now depend on the speed υ of the steady state motion. However S(υ), H(υ), L(υ) are no longer tensors because they do not obey the laws of tensor transformation when υ≠0. Depending on the problems the speed υ may not be prescribed arbitrarily. This is particularly the case for surface waves in a half-space where υ is the surface wave speed. The problem of the existence and uniqueness of a surface wave speed in anisotropic materials is the crux of surface wave theory. It is a subject that has been extensively studied since the pioneer work of Stroh (1962). Excellent expositions on surface waves for anisotropic elastic materials have been given by Farnell (1970), Chadwick and Smith (1977), Barnett and Lothe (1985), and more recently, by Chadwick (1989d).
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Conference papers on the topic "Ocean waves Wave motion, Theory of"

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Karmakar, D., and C. Guedes Soares. "Wave Motion Control Over Submerged Horizontal Plates." In ASME 2015 34th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2015-42070.

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The interaction of surface gravity waves with horizontal pitching plate for actively control waves is investigated based on the linearized theory of water waves. The two dimensional problem is formulated for the submerged plate pitching about its middle point and the other plate is considered to be floating above the submerged plate. The submerged plate’s thickness is considered negligible in comparison with the water depth and wavelength of the incident wave. The study is carried out using the matched eigenfunction expansion method and the analytical solution is developed for the interaction of the surface gravity waves with horizontal submerged structure. The numerical results for the reflection coefficient, transmission coefficient and free surface deflection are computed and analyzed. The study is carried to find the optimal value of the length and depth of the submerged plate at which the dissipation of the incident wave energy is observed. The reduction the wave transformation due to the pitching of the plate with the change in angle of incidence is also analyzed. The present study will be helpful in the analysis of proper functioning of submerged pitching plate to control wave motion for the protection of offshore structures.
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Osborne, Alfred R. "Theory of Nonlinear Fourier Analysis: The Construction of Quasiperiodic Fourier Series for Nonlinear Wave Motion." In ASME 2020 39th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2020-18850.

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Abstract I give a description of nonlinear water wave dynamics using a recently discovered tool of mathematical physics I call nonlinear Fourier analysis (NLFA). This method is based upon and is an application of a theorem due to Baker [1897, 1907] and Mumford [1984] in the field of algebraic geometry and from additional sources by the author [Osborne, 2010, 2018, 2019]. The theory begins with the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation, a two dimensional generalization of the Korteweg-deVries (KdV) equation: Here the NLFA method is derived from the complete integrability of the equation by finite gap theory or the inverse scattering transform for periodic/quasiperiodic boundary conditions. I first show, for a one-dimensional, plane wave solution, that the KP equation can be rotated to a solution of the KdV equation, where the coefficients of KdV are now functions of the rotation angle. I then show how the rotated KdV equation can be used to compute the spectral solutions of the KP equation itself. Finally, I write the spectral solutions of the KP equation as a finite gap solution in terms of Riemann theta functions. By virtue of the fact that I am able to write a theta function formulation of the KP equation, it is clear that the wave dynamics lie on tori and constitute parallel dynamics on the tori in the integrable cases and non-parallel dynamics on the tori for certain perturbed quasi-integrable cases. Therefore, we are dealing with a Kolmogorov-Arnold-Moser KAM theory for nonlinear partial differential wave equations. The nonlinear Fourier series have particular nonlinear Fourier modes, including: sine waves, Stokes waves and solitons. Indeed the theoretical formulation I have developed is a kind of exact two-dimensional “coherent wave turbulence” or “integrable wave turbulence” for the KP equation, for which the Stokes waves and solitons are the coherent structures. I discuss how NLFA provides a number of new tools that apply to a wide range of problems in offshore engineering and coastal dynamics: This includes nonlinear Fourier space and time series analysis, nonlinear Fourier wave field analysis, a nonlinear random phase approximation, the study of nonlinear coherent functions and nonlinear bi and tri spectral analysis.
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3

Yan, S., Q. W. Ma, Jinghua Wang, and Juntao Zhou. "Self-Adaptive Wave Absorbing Technique for Nonlinear Shallow Water Waves." In ASME 2016 35th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2016-54475.

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A key challenge in long-duration modelling of ocean waves or wave-structure interactions in numerical wave tanks (NWT) is how to effectively absorb undesirable waves on the boundaries of the wave tanks. The self-adaptive wavemaker theory is one technique developed for this purpose. However, it was derived based on the linear wavemaker theory, in which the free surface elevation and the motion of the wavemaker are assumed to be approximately zero. Numerical investigations using the fully nonlinear potential theory based Quasi Arbitrary Lagrangian Eulerian Finite Element Method (QALE-FEM) suggested that its efficiency is relatively lower when dealing with nonlinear waves, especially for shallow water waves due to three typical issues associated with the wave nonlinearity including (1) significant wavemaker motion for extreme waves; (2) the mean wave elevation (i.e. the component corresponding to zero frequency), leading to a constant velocity component, thus a significant slow shift of the wavemaker; (3) the nonlinear components, especially high-order harmonics, may significantly influence the wavemaker transfer functions. The paper presents a new approach to numerically implement the existing self-adaptive wavemaker theory and focuses on its application on the open boundary, where all incident waves are expected to be fully absorbed. The approach is implemented by the NWT based on the QALE-FEM method. A systematic numerical investigation on uni-directional waves is carried out, following the corresponding validation through comparing the numerical prediction with experimental data for highly nonlinear shallow water waves.
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Deng, Yanfei, Jianmin Yang, and Longfei Xiao. "Influence of Wave Group Characteristics on the Motion of a Semisubmersible in Freak Waves." In ASME 2014 33rd International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2014-23589.

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In the last few decades, the hydrodynamic performance of offshore structures has been widely studied to ensure their safety as well as to achieve an economical design. However, an increasing number of reported accidents due to rough ocean waves call for in-depth investigations on the loads and motions of offshore structures, particularly the effect of freak waves. The aim of this paper is to determine the sea conditions that may cause the maximum motion responses of offshore structures, which have a significant effect on the loads of mooring systems because of their tight relationship. As a preliminary step, the response amplitude operators (RAOs) of a semisubmersible platform of 500 meters operating depth are obtained with the frequency-domain analysis method. Subsequently, a series of predetermined extreme wave sequences with different wave group characteristics, such as the maximum crest amplitude and the time lag between successive high waves, are adopted to calculate the hydrodynamic performance of the semisubmersible with mooring systems in time-domain. The paper shows that the maximum motion responses not only depend on the largest wave crest amplitude but also the time lags between successive giant waves. This paper will provide an important reference for future designs which could consider the most dangerous wave environment.
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Waals, Olaf J. "On the Application of Advanced Wave Analysis in Shallow Water Model Testing (Wave Splitting)." In ASME 2009 28th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2009-79413.

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The HAWAI JIP originated from the observed differences between model tests and numerical simulations in shallow water. These differences were identified as being caused by spurious free waves and reflected waves in the model basin. Identifying these waves and incorporating them in the numerical simulations greatly improved the agreement between the model test results and the simulation results. Although the effect of spurious waves is also present in deep water, the effect is most profound in shallow water. The research therefore focused on shallow water, further refinement of wave identification, the background and theory behind spurious free waves, the effect of these waves on the motions of a LNG carrier and the occurrence of free waves in reality. In order to identify the different types of wave systems in a model basin a wave splitting (or separation) technique has been developed. This paper describes the current state-of-the-art of wave splitting and its limitations. Results are presented in the form of motion statistics of an LNG carrier that is moored in 15 m and 30 m water depth. The model tests results are compared with simulation results with and without the wave splitting methodology.
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Abadie, Thomas, Frédéric Dias, Ted Cox, and Jean-Michel Ghidaglia. "On the Wavemaker Theory for Two Fluids." In ASME 2015 34th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2015-41612.

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The wavemaker theory for a single layer fluid is a classical chapter of books on water waves. Indeed, linear waves with a desired amplitude, wave length, and frequency can be generated with the horizontal motion of a vertical plate, which is estimated from the wavemaker theory. However, there is much less work on the wavemaker theory when two fluids are superposed. Here we consider a variant of the classical wavemaker theory, which consists in a semi-infinite container with two layers of fluid of finite depths, bounded above by a rigid roof and on one vertical side by a piston. The lower fluid is incompressible (typically a liquid) and the upper fluid is a lighter gas (or liquid), which is considered to be incompressible as well. When the piston is set in motion, waves are created at the interface between the liquid and the gas. Resulting wave profiles and velocity fields based on linearized theory will be shown and compared to the classical one fluid wavemaker theory and to numerical simulations of wave generation with two layers of fluid. Two approaches will be presented, a stationary one, which is the equivalent to the wavemaker theory encountered in books in the case of a single layer, and the initial value problem that takes into account the transient motion from water and wavemaker at rest. The effects of both the density ratio, as well as the effects of the rigid roof are analyzed.
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Fouques, Se´bastien, Harald E. Krogstad, and Dag Myrhaug. "A Second Order Lagrangian Model for Irregular Ocean Waves." In ASME 2004 23rd International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2004. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2004-51334.

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Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) imaging of ocean waves involves both the geometry and the kinematics of the sea surface. However, the traditional linear wave theory fails to describe steep waves, which are likely to bring about specular reflection of the radar beam, and it may overestimate the surface fluid velocity that causes the so-called velocity bunching effect. Recently, the interest for a Lagrangian description of ocean gravity waves has increased. Such an approach considers the motion of individual labeled fluid particles and the free surface elevation is derived from the surface particles positions. The first order regular solution to the Lagrangian equations of motion for an inviscid and incompressible fluid is the so-called Gerstner wave. It shows realistic features such as sharper crests and broader troughs as the wave steepness increases. This paper proposes a second order irregular solution to these equations. The general features of the first and second order waves are described, and some statistical properties of various surface parameters such as the orbital velocity, the slope and the mean curvature are studied.
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Xie, Hang, Huilong Ren, Hui Li, and Kaidong Tao. "Numerical Prediction of Bow-Flared Slamming on ULCS in Oblique Waves." In ASME 2018 37th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2018-77782.

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Bow-flared slamming loads of ULCS in oblique waves were studied systematically. Firstly, relative motion features between ship and wave were analyzed by seakeeping theory. The result shows the transverse and roll motion cannot be ignored in oblique waves. Secondly, a long-term and short-term analysis was applied to obtain the parameters of equivalent design wave. Then slamming pressure of two bow-flared sections with three kinds of motions was predicted by using the Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) method in commercial code FLUENT. Pressure characteristics in different wave directions were discussed and the results show slamming loads in some oblique wave cases are larger than that in the head sea. And the torque moment and transverse force caused by asymmetrical pressure distribution on the two sides should be drawn more attention.
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Nascimento, Fa´bio, Carlos Levi, Antonio C. Fernandes, Paulo de Tarso Esperanc¸a, and Paulo Sergio Gomes. "A Wave Maker With Active Reflected Wave Compensation System." In ASME 2002 21st International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2002. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2002-28222.

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Important aspects in the studies to assess the dynamic behavior of ocean vessels or structures, like ships or offshore oil platforms is the capability of generating gravity waves under strict laboratory control. Model test techniques are continuously improving and are very much dependent on the good quality waves that could be generated in a basin. Since ocean basins have finite dimensions, the waves reflected by the models, walls and even to some extent by the beaches, may become a critical issue if you need to guarantee accuracy and reliability for the tests. Besides the undesirable pattern of reflected waves within the test area of the basin, these waves come back onto the wave maker, affecting the correct properties of the wave to be generated. Modern wave generator apparatuses are now being equipped with real time control systems that enable them to generate an irregular wave pattern. At the same time they correct their flap motions to compensate re-reflection of waves from the wave-boards. The quality of such a system depends very much on the efficiency of the algorithm to be implemented in it. This paper discusses the development of an effective mathematical model of a control system used in an irregular wave maker–hinged flap type, featuring active wave reflection compensation. An efficient real time algorithm has been selected to run the control system device. The system is able to generate first order irregular waves and detect reflected waves that approach the wave maker by means of wave probes mounted on the face of the flap. The probe registers the input data to be used by the actuator to compensate the incoming wave by controlling the flap motion. Computer simulations obtained for a wave-maker in a flume are used to demonstrate the efficiency of each step of the theory and the overall accuracy of the compensation system.
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Sun, Hui, and Jens B. Helmers. "A 2D Nonlinear Numerical Wave Tank With a Moored Floating Body." In ASME 2019 38th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2019-96669.

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Abstract A 2D nonlinear numerical wave tank is developed to simulate the motion responses of a moored floating body in waves which may experience strongly nonlinear wave-body interactions. The numerical solver is based on a Boundary Element Method which has been developed to solve strongly nonlinear hydrodynamic problems. The method is further developed in this paper to simulate a floating body in waves, where horizontal, vertical and rotational motions can be calculated. An effective algorithm is implemented to separate the added mass forces from the total hydrodynamic forces, thus to make the time domain solution converge more easily. The numerical results for a horizontal circular cylinder in waves are compared with linear theory for small wave steepness for verification and further compared with published model tests and CFD results for high wave steepness as validations.
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