Tesis:

1

Silva, Camila Assis Peres. "Perfume, história e design: o papel das embalagens no mercado brasileiro de perfumaria". Universidade do Estado do Rio de Janeiro, 2012. http://www.bdtd.uerj.br/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=4185.

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O presente trabalho tem por objetivo apresentar o papel do design no mercado brasileiro de perfumes. Parte-se da hipótese de que é ele o elemento fundamental para o bom desempenho desse segmento. Na medida em que ele possibilita a diferenciação entre as diversas embalagens, criando uma segmentação para o consumo nas mais diversas camadas sociais. Inicialmente será apresentado o universo do perfume, abordando seus aspectos técnicos e culturais. Uma relação de matérias primas utilizadas na indústria de perfumaria será fornecida. Seu propósito é proporcionar ao designer profissional e ao designer pesquisador uma referência visual dos elementos que compõe um perfume. Adiante, os principais aspectos da história do perfume no mercado nacional de perfumaria são destacados, bem como a mudança de paradigmas de consumo ao longo dessa trajetória. Segue-se com a apresentação das peculiaridades de um projeto de embalagens para esse segmento, destacando o perfil do designer, desse mercado e uma relação de termos técnicos. Por fim, um modelo para catalogação será apresentado e aplicado a um grupo de perfumes nacionais e internacionais. O estudo se encerra com uma análise das embalagens catalogadas, a fim de mostrar que existem diferentes soluções de design para comunicar os conceitos de um perfume.
The present work aims to present the role of design in the market of perfumery. It starts with the assumption that it is a fundamental element for the proper performance of this segment. In so far as it enables the differentiation between the various packaging, creating segmentation for consumption in various social strata.Initially, the universe of perfume is presented, approaching its technical and cultural aspects. A list of raw materials used in perfumery industry will be provided. Its purpose is to give to the professional designer and researcher designer a visual reference of the elements that make up a perfume. Further, the main history aspects of the national market of perfumery are highlighted, as well as the paradigm shift of consumption along its trajectory. This is followed by the presentation of the peculiarities of a packaging design for this segment, highlighting the designer profile of this market and a list of technical terms. Finally, a model for cataloguing is presented and applied to a group of national and international perfumes. The study concludes with an analysis of the cataloged packages in order to show that exist different design solutions to communicate a perfume concept.

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2

Pan, Xuemiao. "Membrane emulsification to produce perfume microcapsules". Thesis, University of Birmingham, 2013. http://etheses.bham.ac.uk//id/eprint/4555/.

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Microencapsulation is an efficient technology to deliver perfume oils from consumer products onto the surface of fabrics. Microcapsules having uniform size/mechanical strength, may provide better release performance. Membrane emulsification in a dispersion cell followed by in-situ polymerization was used to prepare narrow size distribution melamine-formaldehyde (MF) microcapsules containing several types of oil-based fragrances or ingredients. Investigated in this study are the parameters impacting to the size and size distribution of the droplets and final MF microcapsules. A pilot plant-scale cross-flow membrane system was also used to produce MF microcapsules, demonstrating that the membrane emulsification process has potential to be scaled up for industrial applications. In this study, health and environmental friendly poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) microcapsules with narrow size distribution were also prepared for the first time using the dispersion cell membrane emulsification system. Characterization methods previously used for thin-shell microcapsules were expanded to analyse microcapsules with thick shells. The intrinsic mechanical properties of thick shells were determined using a micromanipulation technique and finite element analysis (FEM). The microcapsules structure was also considered in the determination of the permeability and diffusivity of the perfume oils in good solvents.

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3

Leal, Patricia Garcia. "Amargo Perfume : a dança pelos sentidos". [s.n.], 2009. http://repositorio.unicamp.br/jspui/handle/REPOSIP/284661.

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Orientador: Elisabeth Bauch Zimmermann
Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Artes
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Resumo: A presente pesquisa se configura a partir de processos criativos em dança, tendo os sentidos do olfato e do paladar como estímulos primeiros à criação. Propõe uma escolha específica no que se refere às técnicas corporais, utilizando a improvisação em sua possibilidade integradora entre preparação corporal, interpretação e criação. O resultado da pesquisa, além dos três espetáculos decorrentes dos processos criativos desenvolvidos, é a configuração de propostas metodológicas em dança contemporânea. Os primeiros perfumes destacados pela tese apresentam as referências de pesquisa em relação aos sentidos do olfato e do paladar, justificando o recorte escolhido. Referências interdisciplinares entre psicologia, história, literatura, cinema, neurociências, ciências cognitivas, entre outras, evidenciam como estes sentidos aparecem e são tratados nestas áreas do conhecimento focalizando, finalmente, sua utilização em metodologias artísticas na dança e no teatro. No que concerne aos processos criativos, o primeiro espetáculo desenvolvido, Amargo Perfume, utilizou como estímulo de criação o cheiro do café. O segundo, intitulado intenso, enfatizou os sabores do vinho tinto cabernet. E o último espetáculo desenvolvido, Variações sobre chocolates, utilizou não apenas os estímulos olfativos e gustativos, mas também as informações táteis de chocolates diversos. Os dois primeiros trabalhos foram configurados como solo e o último desenvolveu-se em grupo como necessidade de aplicação das metodologias da pesquisa. Degustando os sabores, as metodologias geradoras e decorrentes das criações, que vêm sendo pesquisadas desde 2001, são apresentadas em duas partes. A primeira relaciona diretamente os sentidos da percepção aos fatores do movimento de Laban em processos de improvisação. A segunda focaliza mais a criação a partir dos sentidos do olfato e do paladar, valorizando as contribuições e possibilidades destes sentidos, especificamente, para a criação coreográfica. As propostas podem ser integradas, promover interfaces e têm a improvisação como fundamento básico e agregador entre técnicas de preparo corporal, de composição e interpretação cênica. Uma última variação metodológica, nos moldes mais tradicionais de uma aula de dança, com estrutura de chão, centro e diagonal, é apresentada em anexo como contribuição aos mais diversos profissionais das artes corporais e cênicas. Na discussão final, tessitura aromática saborosa, a presente pesquisa reflete sobre as contribuições das criações e metodologias desenvolvidas para o cenário atual da dança contemporânea, contextualizando as questões do corpo e da dança a partir do referencial dos sentidos.
Abstract: The present research was developed from creative processes in dance, that had the senses of smell and taste as first stimuli for creation. Proposes a specific choice of corporal techniques, using improvisation as a possibility of integrating body's preparation, interpretation and creation. The results of the research are three choreographies and the configuration of methodological proposals in contemporary dance. The first perfumes emphasized by the thesis present the references of the study concerning the senses of smell and taste in different areas as psychology, history, literature, cognitive science and others. Finally, different artistic methodologies involving the senses are presented as a reference in theater and dance. In concern of the creative processes, the first choreography developed, Amargo Perfume, used the scent of coffee as a stimulus. The second, Intenso, emphasized the flavors of red cabernet wine. And the last choreography developed, Variações sobre chocolates, used not only the smelling and tasting stimuli, but also the touching information of chocolates. Amargo Perfume and Intenso were conceived as solos. Variações sobre chocolates was developed in group as a necessity of methodological application. Tasting the flavors, the methodologies that have been researched since 2001, are presented in two parts. The first one relates the perception's senses to Laban factors of movement in improvisation processes. The second one focuses on the creation from the senses of smell and taste, valorizing the contributions and possibilities of these specific senses to choreography composition. The proposals can be integrated and have in improvisation the basis that associate body's preparation, interpretation and composition techniques. One last methodological variation, in a floor work, centre and diagonal format, is presented in annex like a contribution to the most different professionals in body and scenic arts. As final discussion, tasting and scenting touch, the present study reflects about the methodological and creative contributions developed to the actual scenery of contemporary dance, discussing about the body and the dance from the senses' point of view.
Doutorado
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4

Bradbury, Robert David. "Nanoscale delivery vehicles for optimised perfume delivery". Thesis, University of Oxford, 2012. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.559741.

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Di-alkyl chain anionic surfactants are a major constituent in hair and clothes care products. Commercially they are frequently formulated in conjunction with perfumes. Despite considerable progress over the last two decades in understanding the behaviour of surfactant mixtures, the solution and surface behaviour of surfactant - perfume mix- tures have been neglected. Small angle neutron scattering and neutron reflectivity have been used to characterise the surface and solution behaviour of the di-alkyl chain an- ionic surfactant sodium para-dodecyl benzene sulphonate, Na-6-DBS, in the presence of two model perfumes, the hydrophilic 2-phenyl ethanol and the more hydrophobic linalool. Additional work focused on the addition of a divalent salt, CaCh or a polyelec- trolyte, polyethyleneimine, PEI. The solution phase behaviour for the different anionic surfactant - perfume mixtures has been determined in some detail. For the hydrophilic phenyl ethanol the Na-6-DBS preferred highly curved micellar structures while with linalool more planar structures predominated. At the highest perfume concentrations there was a switch from globular micelles to swollen micelles. At higher solution con- centrations the phenyl ethanol observes a shift towards lamellar structures while the linalool promotes a mixture of vesicles and lamellar structures. The surface behaviour is characterised by a marked departure from ideal mixing for both phenyl ethanol and linalool with Na-6-DBS. The linalool can compete a lot more effectively at the interface than the phenyl ethanol. Replacing the surfactant with sodium dodecyl sulphate, SDS, enhances the adsorption of both perfumes while the addition of an electrolyte, NaCl to the SDS causes a significant reduction in perfume adsorption. In the presence of PEI significant linalool adsorption is observed which is not the case for phenyl ethanol, Clearly while the PEI - linalool interaction is strong enough to compete with the SDS PEI for the interface, the PEI - phenyl ethanol interaction is not, with the result that no adsorption occurs.

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Souza, Angela Maria Folloni de. "Estudo terminológico de perfumes na indústria brasileira". Universidade de São Paulo, 2011. http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/8/8139/tde-05012012-164415/.

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Greig, Stuart Alexander James. "Synthetic studies directed towards the odoriferous sesquiterpenoid grimaldone". Thesis, University of Glasgow, 1998. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.245295.

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Paz, Julia Oliveira da. "Luxury strategy of perfume brands in emerging markets: an exploratory study of luxury brands in the perfumes sector in Brazil". reponame:Repositório Institucional do FGV, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/10438/17789.

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In recent years, emerging markets – considered the lead countries of the ‘developing world’ – have been outgrowing developed countries within the scope of the luxury market worldwide. Consequently, these new markets represent a promise, at the same time as a challenge to traditional luxury brands. According to Atwal and Bryson (2014), a significant increase in the consumer base of emerging markets coupled with the geographic shift in wealth allowed international luxury brands to enter 25 new markets in 2013 such as Brazil, India, Russia and China. Within this context, one of the challenges of the research will be to focus in one of the most significant emerging markets worldwide – Brazil – to be able to deeply understand the specificities of this market and the implications to the luxury strategy of perfume brands. In details, this research will also focus on the Brazilian perfumes sector. The main objective is to discuss how international luxury brands of the perfumes sector adapt their strategy given the complexities and specificities of the Brazilian luxury market and its perfumes sector. As an exploratory qualitative research, this study will analyse luxury brands of perfumes sector and their practices in Brazil from the managerial and strategic perspective. From the theory, the study will present two main perspectives on luxury strategy to, then, give an overview of the perfume sector within the Brazilian market and the specificities of the Brazilian consumer. Finally, the research will focus on the brands’ perspective to discuss how they adapt their strategies to this specific market and sector. For this approach, the methods will be in depth interviews with brands’ executives, complemented with archival research. By exploring a vague subject within a specific context from a new perspective than usually found in the existing literature, the main contribution of this research will be for managers and leaders of luxury perfume brands to use as a possible guideline of best practices of luxury strategy within this market. In other words, through the managerial and strategic perspective studied for each of the chosen brands, the result of this research will present similarities and divergences between theory and practice in order for these managers and leaders to acknowledge the challenges and specificities to be faced within the Brazilian luxury market and perfumes sector
Nos últimos anos os mercados emergentes – considerados os principais países do 'mundo em desenvolvimento' – têm superado os países desenvolvidos no âmbito do mercado de luxo mundial. Consequentemente, ao mesmo tempo em que representam um importante desafio para marcas de luxo, também oferecem grande potencial. De acordo com Atwal e Bryson (2014), os mercados emergentes alteraram a perspectiva do cenário mundial para o mercado de luxo uma vez que o aumento da base de consumidores, principalmente dada a ascensão da classe média com rendas mais altas, fez com que marcas internacionais de luxo entrassem em 25 novos mercados em 2013, como Índia, Brasil, China e Rússia. Sendo assim, um importante desafio desta pesquisa será abordar um dos mercados emergentes mais significativos no cenário mundial – Brasil – de forma a entender a fundo as especificidades deste mercado e, consequentemente, as implicações que estas podem trazer às marcas de perfumes de luxo. Mais especificamente, a pesquisa focará no setor de perfumes brasileiro. O principal objetivo é discutir como as marcas internacionais de luxo, no setor de perfumes, adaptam suas estratégias dadas as complexidades e especificidades do mercado de luxo brasileiro e seu setor de perfumes. Na forma de pesquisa qualitativa exploratória, esta dissertação analisará marcas de luxo de perfumes e suas práticas no mercado brasileiro das perspectivas gerencial e estratégica. A análise teórica apresentará duas teorias principais sobre elementos de uma estratégia de luxo e abordará o setor de perfumes do mercado brasileiro e o próprio consumidor brasileiro. Por conseguinte, a pesquisa em si focará na perspectiva das marcas estudadas com objetivo de discutir como elas adaptam suas estratégias a este mercado e setor específicos. Neste contexto, a metodologia terá como principal fonte de informações as entrevistas em profundidade com executivos das marcas, complementada com pesquisa documental. Através do estudo de um contexto específico e pouco abordado na literatura existente, a contribuição desta pesquisa será de direcionar a líderes e marcas deste setor um guia de melhores práticas da estratégia de luxo, específico para este mercado. Ou seja, a partir da perspectiva gerencial estudada para cada uma das marcas abordadas o resultado da pesquisa apresentará similaridades e divergências entre teoria e prática para que executivos de marcas de luxo internacionais tenham conhecimento dos desafios a serem enfrentados no contexto brasileiro.

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8

Gedutytė, Reda. "The usage of deixis in advertisements related to perfume". Bachelor's thesis, Lithuanian Academic Libraries Network (LABT), 2013. http://vddb.laba.lt/obj/LT-eLABa-0001:E.02~2013~D_20130608_142638-92111.

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Advertisements are a means of widely used media, which uses language, images and/or sounds to attract the attention of potential clientele and transmit the message. The message of the advertisements is transmitted at the receiver with the help of deixis. Deixis points at the customer and builds the bridge of communication between the sender of the message and its receiver. This study analyses how the deictic forms are used in the advertisements and commercials of perfume in order to promote and sell the goods.
Skelbimai yra viena iš plačiausiai naudojamų žiniasklaidos priemonių, naudojančių kalbą, vaizdus ir/arba garsus, tam kad pritrauktų potencialių klientų dėmesį ir perduotų žinią. Deiksės pagalba reklaminiai pranešimai yra perduodami gavėjui. Deiksė nusitaiko į klientą ir sukuria bendravimo tiltą tarp žinutės pranešėjo ir gavėjo. Šis tyrimas analizuoja, kaip deiksė yra vartojama kvepalų reklamoje tam kad reklamuotų ir parduotų prekes.

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9

Rocha, Carol Martins da 1983. "Perfume de mulher = riso feminino e poesia em Casina". [s.n.], 2010. http://repositorio.unicamp.br/jspui/handle/REPOSIP/269083.

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Orientador: Isabella Tardin Cardoso
Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas. Instituto de Estudos da Linguagem
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Resumo: A peça Cásina (Casina), provável produção do fim da carreira do poeta romano Tito Mácio Plauto (III-II a.C.), carece de observação mais atenta no cenário mais recente dos estudos sobre o autor. É notável que essa comédia, ao que saibamos, não tenha recebido anteriormente tradução em nosso país, sobretudo porque um passar de olhos pelas intrigas e confusões da peça, já nos revela uma infinidade de aspectos da poesia plautina. Em muitos casos se trata de características sutis, muitas das quais têm passado despercebidas para a maioria dos críticos, que notaram sobretudo brincadeiras mais explícitas ali presentes, envolvendo inclusive travestimento e referências a partes pudicas. Como pretendemos ressaltar, outros recursos humorísticos e poéticos abundam em Cásina: desde o próprio nome dos personagens até passagens em que podemos notar teatro dentro do teatro (fenômeno tratado mais recentemente como ?metateatralidade?). A trama, mesmo que típica do drama plautino, constrói-se de tal maneira a destacar de modo especial personagens que em outras peças não recebem tanto realce: as mulheres. Seja no papel da típica matrona plautina (esposa ciumenta), seja num papel contrário (a esposa submissa), seja ainda, na inventividade da escrava, ou até mesmo, na figura de uma falsa mulher, os personagens femininos de Cásina chamam a atenção dos leitores modernos, e, provavelmente, também cativariam o público da época. Nossa tradução e análise da peça buscam, entre outros resultados, proporcionar a percepção de tais efeitos humorísticos e póeticos. Para tanto será necessário observar fatores distintos: possíveis interferências pós-plautinas (pressupostas a partir do prólogo); aspectos de teatro dentro do teatro presentes no texto; o tratamento cauteloso da linguagem plautina
Abstract: The play Casina (Casina), probably a production of the end of the Roman poet's career Titus Maccius Plautus (III-II b. C.), lacks a more exhaustive observation in the recent scenario of the studies about the author. It is noteworthy that, as far as I know, this comedy hadn't received any translation in our country, above all because a look over to the Casina's intrigues and confusions may reveal an infinity of instigating aspects of Plautine poetry. In many cases, subtle characteristics haven't received a proper treatment by the critics that have noted above all tricks more explicit there, involving cross-dressing and references to chaste parts. As I intend to highlight, other humorous and poetics resources also abound in Casina: since the speaking names of the characters until passages where one may note play-within-the-play (phenomenom treated more recently as ?metatheater?). The plot, although typical in the Plautine drama, is built in such a way that emphasizes specially characters that in other plays don't receive much attention: the women. As the typical Plautine matrona (the jealous wife) or in an opposite role (the submissive wife), or, in the inventivity of the female slave, or even in the image of a false woman, the feminine characters of Casina drawn attention of the modern readers and, probably, should have delighted the public of the Plautine epoch. The translation and analysis here proposed aim, among other results, to provide the perception of such humorous and poetics effects. In order to accomplish this task it will be necessary to observe different elements: possible post-Plautine interventions (noted from the prologue); aspects of play-within-the-play noticeable in the text; the cautious treatment of the Plautine language
Mestrado
Linguistica
Mestre em Linguística

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Rita, Melissa Oliveira. "Chanel’s perfume personality : the gap between identity and image". Master's thesis, Instituto Superior de Economia e Gestão, 2019. http://hdl.handle.net/10400.5/19576.

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Mestrado em Marketing
Nos últimos anos, as redes sociais tornaram-se um componente vital das comunicações integradas de marketing, estabelecendo um forte relacionamento entre as organizações e os seus consumidores. A revolução tecnológica alterou os padrões comportamentais, permitindo a troca de uma enorme quantidade de informações e opiniões entre os consumidores em diversas plataformas digitais. Numa era de tendências em rápida mudança, o setor de luxo começou a olhar para as classes de consumidores do futuro preparando-se para fazer investimentos significativos em marketing digital e recorrendo progressivamente às redes sociais para criar um maior envolvimento com os seus clientes. Assim, para entender o envolvimento do cliente é preciso garantir que uma marca esteja a transmitir ao consumidor a perceção correta (identidade versus imagem). A identidade e imagem de marca podem projetar uma perceção distinta da pretendida por parte dos consumidores. O modelo de personalidade de marca pode ser essencial para compreender a influência das perceções da marca entre empresas e consumidores. Esta investigação tem o desígnio de analisar as dimensões de personalidade da marca comunicadas online pela marca de luxo Chanel, nos seus produtos de cosmética mais conceituados: as suas fragrâncias - Coco Chanel Mademoiselle, Chanel Eau Tendre e Chanel Nº5; com o intuito de compreender se a identidade projetada pela marca diverge com a imagem percecionada pelos consumidores.
In recent years, social networks have become a vital component of integrated marketing communications enabling the creation of a strong relationship between organizations and their consumers. The technological revolution has altered behavioural patterns, enabling the exchange of a huge amount of information and opinion among consumers on various digital platforms. In an age of rapidly changing trends, the luxury sector has begun to look at its consumer classes of the future, being prepared to make significant investments in digital marketing and progressively using social media to attract customer engagement. Thus, to understand customer engagement, we may need to make sure that a brand is passing to consumer the right perception (identity versus image). Brand identity and image may project a different perception from consumers. Brand personality model may be essential for understanding the leverage between firms and consumers brand perceptions. This research aims to analyse the personality dimensions of online brand communication by luxury brand Chanel, for its most notorious cosmetic products: its fragrances - Coco Chanel Mademoiselle, Chanel Eau Tendre and Chanel Nº5; with the purpose of understanding if the identity projected by the brand diverges with the image perceived by consumers.
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Ferreira, Daniela Ester. "Os desafios da integração dos perfumes às coleções de moda no Brasil: um estudo exploratório das marcas com lojas próprias". Universidade de São Paulo, 2018. http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/100/100133/tde-23102018-161319/.

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O perfume, do mesmo modo que a roupa, faz parte do ritual do vestir e está relacionado à intimidade pessoal. Junto ao vestuário, os envoltórios, as fragrâncias e seus sistemas discursivos passaram a delinear padrões de comportamento, perfis e estilos de vida. Deste modo pode-se dizer que apesar de serem distintos no que se refere à origem e produção, o vestuário e o perfume são convergentes sob o ponto de vista do consumo. Há marcas de perfumes próprias, exclusivas do setor, como também há aquelas associadas aos nomes de celebridades ou à moda. Este trabalho se propôs a identificar quais os fatores considerados pelas marcas de moda, no interesse em integrar o perfume ao seu ciclo de coleções de vestuário. As estratégias das grifes para definir suas coleções podem ser adotadas para produtos complementares por meio da extensão da marca, no intuito de potencializar a fixação da imagem de marca, ampliar a experiência de compra do consumidor e desenvolver os negócios como um todo. Para este estudo foi feito um levantamento do estado da arte dos conceitos referentes às marcas de moda e aos perfumes. Foi realizada uma pesquisa empírica caracterizada como exploratória com a utilização de estudo de casos múltiplos, para identificar as conexões entre os dados coletados, por meio da revisão bibliográfica, e as empresas que trabalham nos segmentos de vestuário e perfumes. Os resultados mostraram que os profissionais de moda atribuem baixa importância ao perfume e têm pouco conhecimento técnico sobre o setor, tanto no que se refere ao produto quanto à sua comercialização e ao potencial de mercado. Ao partirem do princípio que o perfume com sua marca não seria atrativo aos seus consumidores, acabam por depreciá-la. A visão é baseada na experiência diária e nos resultados das outras empresas, o que acaba gerando uma série de preconceitos. Já os profissionais de perfume, embora também apresentem desconhecimento sobre as questões técnicas do setor de moda, têm disposição para trabalhar em conjunto e promover a integração, pois entendem que o consumidor se motivaria com essa complementariedade. O resultado é que a integração se dá pela extensão de marca, principalmente pelo licenciamento e, desse modo, o perfume não está inserido à coleção de vestuário de moda. O consumidor, no entanto, não faz distinção ao usar os produtos de vestuário, acessórios, perfumes e cosméticos, todos eles fazem parte de um benefício único, o de se vestir e preparar-se para um papel social. Em um ambiente competitivo onde se diz que a inovação é o propulsor do sucesso corporativo, identificou-se que há pouca motivação na busca por novos caminhos e oportunidades nas marcas de moda pesquisadas. Neste sentido, se entende que o trabalho contribui para o estudo do desafio das empresas de focar seu negócio nos benefícios de uso do consumidor, em um ambiente de integração de produtos que tem sua origem em indústrias de distintos setores e, portanto, domínios diferentes de conhecimento
Perfume, like clothing, is part of the dressing ritual and is related to personal intimacy. Along with clothing, packages, fragrances and their discursive systems have outlined patterns of behavior, profiles and lifestyles. Although they are distinct in origin and production, clothing and perfume are convergent from the consumption point of view. Fragrances have their own exclusive brands and are associated with celebrities or fashion brands. This study aims to identify the factors considered by fashion brands to integrate perfume into their clothing collections cycles. Fashion brands consider complementary products through brand extension to enhance brand image, broadening the consumer experience and developing the business as a whole, as part of their strategies to define clothing collections. An overview of the state-of-the-art concepts related to fashion brands and perfumes was carried out in this study. An exploratory empirical research using multiple case studies was conducted to identify the connections between the data collected, through the literature review, and the companies in the clothing and perfume segments. The results showed fashion professionals attach marginal importance to perfume and have little technical knowledge about the sector, in terms of the product, its commercialization and market potential. By assuming that the perfume with their brand would not be attractive to their consumers, they eventually despise it. Their vision is based on the daily experience and the results of other companies, which ends up generating several preconceptions by the segment. In contrast, perfume professionals are also unfamiliar with the technical issues about the fashion sector, but are willing to work together and promote the integration, as they understand the consumer would be motivated by this complementarity. As result, the connection takes place by brand extension mainly through licensing and does not associate the perfume with the clothing collection. The consumer, however, makes no distinction when wearing apparel, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics, all of them are part of a unique benefit of dressing and preparing for a social role. In a competitive environment where innovation is considered the driver of business success, the fashion brands analyzed have not been motivated to pursue new paths and opportunities. In this sense, the findings of this study have contributed to the understanding of companies challenges to focus their business on the consumer use benefits, in an environment of products integration that comes from different industries and, therefore, distinct domains of knowledge

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Goodall, Marcus J. "The formulation of rinse-off productds with improved perfume deposition". Thesis, University of Manchester, 2005. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.528521.

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Fontanari, José Rodrigo Paulino. "A imagem do cheiro: o paradoxo na publicidade de perfume". Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo, 2008. https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/5007.

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Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico
The current research approaches the comunicative modality we name: olfactory communication . We understand the perfume as a media form. We have investigated the history of the perfume in several civilizations and its use in the rituals. We have inserted some discoveries regarding the smell in the communication of the human being since their early age. As the contemporary civilization has privileged the senses of distance (the sight and the hearing) to detriment of the proximity senses (the smell and the taste), we have attempted to verify the translation of the perfume for the visual code. In such a way, therefore executives advertising propagated in the feminine magazines Claude, Elle, Marie Claire and Nova in the period of 1993 the 2004 are analaysed. The work is supported in the concepts of ecology of the communication proposed by Vicente Romano, of the ethology of the communication by Boris Cyrulnik, as well the concepts of primary, secondary and tertiary media of Harry Pross. In the same proportion of the suffering of the proximity senses, we observe of the bonds of the affection. To carry out of this research, Semiotics of the Culture was chosen, wich understands the body, the perfume and the smell as cultural possessing texts of great informative capacity in ample direction. Through this semiotics, the paradigms will be constituted as object of study object and to tack the three spheres of the research (body, perfume and smell). This triad shows as one of the possible ways to keep the interpersonal communicative bonds of proximity
A presente pesquisa aborda a modalidade comunicativa que denominamos comunicação olfativa . Compreendemos o perfume como forma de mídia. Investigamos a história do perfume em diversas civilizações e seu uso nos rituais. Inserimos algumas descobertas a respeito do olfato na comunicação do ser humano desde seus primeiros anos de vida. Uma vez que a civilização contemporânea tem privilegiado os sentidos de distância (a visão e a audição) em detrimento dos sentidos de proximidade (o olfato e o paladar), procuramos verificar como se dá a tradução do perfume para o código visual. Para tanto, são analisadas peças publicitárias veiculadas nas revistas femininas Claudia, Elle, Marie Claire e Nova no período de 1993 a 2004. O trabalho apóia-se nos conceitos de ecologia da comunicação proposto por Vicente Romano, de etologia da comunicação de Boris Cyrulnik e também de mídia primária, secundária e terciária de Harry Pross. Na mesma proporção do padecimento dos sentidos de proximidade, observa-se o esmaecimento dos vínculos do afeto. Para a elaboração desta pesquisa, elegeu-se a Semiótica da Cultura, que entende o corpo, o perfume e o olfato como textos da cultura possuidores de grande capacidade informativa em sentido amplo. Por meio dessa semiótica, serão constituídos os paradigmas para focar o objeto de estudo e alinhavar as três esferas de pesquisa (corpo, perfume e olfato). Essa tríade revela-se como uma das possíveis maneiras de manter os vínculos comunicativos interpessoais de proximidade

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Petry, Fernando Floriani. "O Cão e o frasco, o perfume e a cruz". Florianópolis, SC, 2011. http://repositorio.ufsc.br/xmlui/handle/123456789/95522.

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Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina, Centro de Comunicação e Expressão, Programa de Pós-Graduação em Literatura, Florianópolis, 2011
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A presente dissertação de mestrado em Literatura Brasileira no Programa de Pós-Graduação em Literatura da Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina tem por objetivo geral um estudo comparativo entre as diferentes metodologias de pesquisa e de indexação de periódicos adotadas, respectivamente, pelo projeto A pesquisa de periódicos na Literatura Brasileira coordenado pelo professor José Aderaldo Castello, no Instituto de Estudos Brasileiros (IEB - USP) e pelo projeto Poéticas Contemporâneas coordenado pela professora Maria Lucia de Barros Camargo, no Núcleo de Estudos Literários e Culturais (NELIC - UFSC). O corpus admitido como elemento comparativo entre as duas metodologias a de pesquisa no caso do IEB e a de indexação no caso do NELIC é a revista Rosa-Cruz, uma revista simbolista publicada nos anos de 1901 e 1904, no Rio de Janeiro. Adotou-se como parâmetro de comparação o estudo desenvolvido por Antonio Dimas, em sua dissertação de mestrado a fim de instrumentalizar o cotejamento entre as duas metodologias. Desenvolveu-se também a discussão de conceitos chave, tais como Arquivo, Periódico, Indexação, Invenção / Inventário, Descrição, fundamentais para a proposta de análise da revista a partir das diferentes metodologias abordadas.
This dissertation objective a comparative study between different research methodologies or indexing of periodicals taken by the project's research journals in Brazilian Literature - coordinated by Professor Jose Aderaldo Castello, in the Instituto de Estudos Brasileiros (IEB - USP) # and the project Poéticas Contemporâneas - coordinated by Professor Maria Lucia de Barros Camargo, in the Núcleo de Estudos Literários e Culturais (NELIC - UFSC). The corpus admitted as evidence comparing the two methodologies - the search in case the IEB and indexing in the case of NELIC - it is Rosa-Cruz magazine, a Symbolist journal published in years 1901 and 1904, in Rio de Janeiro. It was adopted as a benchmark in the study by Antonio Dimas, in his dissertation in order to equip the comparison between the two methodologies. Has also developed a discussion of key concepts, such as Archive, Indexing, Invention / Inventory, fundamental to the analysis of the revised proposal from the different methodologies addressed.

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McManis, Amanda. "Perfume Vessels in South-East Italy: A comparative analysis of Perfume Vessels in Greek and Indigenous Italian Burials from the 6th to 4th Centuries B.C". Thesis, Department of Archaeology, 2013. http://hdl.handle.net/2123/10182.

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To date there has been a broad range of research investigating both perfume use in the Mediterranean and the cultural development of south-east Italy. The use of perfume was clearly an important practice in the broader Mediterranean, however very little is known about its introduction to the indigenous Italians and its subsequent use. There has also been considerable theorising about the nature of the cross-cultural relationship between the Greeks and the indigenous Italians, but there is a need for archaeological studies to substantiate or refute these theories. This thesis therefore aims to make a relevant contribution through a synthesis of these areas of study by producing a preliminary investigation of the use of perfume vessels in south-east Italy. The assimilation of perfume use into indigenous Italian culture was a result of their contact with the Greek settlers in south-east Italy, however the ways in which perfume vessels were incorporated into indigenous Italian use have not been systematically studied. This thesis will examine the use of perfume vessels in indigenous Italian burials in the regions of Peucetia and Messapia and compare this use with that of the burials at the nearby Greek settlement of Metaponto. The material studied will consist of burials from the sixth to fourth centuries B.C., to enable an analysis of perfume use and social change over time. An analysis of the broad distribution of perfume vessels was undertaken, followed by a more detailed examination of the relationships between perfume vessels and specific burial features. An interpretation of the results given by these analyses proposes that the use of perfume vessels by indigenous Italians was closely connected to developments in their settlement centralisation and social structure, and became a well integrated aspect of burial ritual by the end of the fourth century B.C.

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Ramalho, Maria Rita Pinto Coelho de Magalhães. "How to sell successfully a perfume in the non-selective market?" Master's thesis, NSBE - UNL, 2009. http://hdl.handle.net/10362/9637.

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A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics
This document presents a market research on the positioning of perfumes in the non selective market. This project’s main goal had been to analyze the challenge of “successfully selling a perfume in the non-selective market” in order to propose potential solutions. To address this marketing problem, an exploratory research had been conducted (20 In Depth interviews) along with four semi-structured interviews with market experts to consolidate the consumers’ outputs. Although this research had confirmed a high complexity behind consumers’ attitudes towards a perfume, we believe there are great opportunities in the non-selective perfumery. As a consequence, we recommend a further study on some of the hypothesis build up throughout this research: on other products to “get perfumed”; on the already strong mass market brand’s potential extensions; on the establishment of another way of talking about the perfume and on the replacement of the myth with an absolutely unique idea.

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Zanardi, Oscar José. "O perfume em sua possibilidade de ser uma obra de arte". reponame:Repositório Institucional da UFSC, 2014. https://repositorio.ufsc.br/xmlui/handle/123456789/129078.

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Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina, Centro de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas, Programa de Pós-Graduação em Filosofia, Florianópolis, 2014.
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Esta dissertação em filosofia da arte tem três capítulos. No primeiro Nível Estético, sondaremos os fundamentos das hierarquias sensoriais, criando o conceito de sensismo. No Nível Conceitual, pensaremos o perfume sob as distinções que tradicionalmente barraram a sua possibilidade de ser uma obra de arte, e a de o olfato contemplar tais obras, superando-as por meio da tese da simultaneidade dos estatutos ontológicos do perfume e do odor. Por fim, no Nível Teorético, ilustraremos um conceito de arte circular baseado na análise da gênese da expressão "obra de arte".

Abstract : This dissertation on philosophy of art has three chapters. In the Aesthetic Level, we will explore the fundamentals of sensory hierarchies, creating the concept of sensism. At the Conceptual Level, we will think the perfume under the distinctions that traditionally barred its possibility of being a work of art, and smell to contemplate such works, overcoming them through the thesis of the ontological simultaneity between the perfume and odor. Finally, in the Theoretical Level, we will illustrate a circular concept of art based on the genesis of the term "work of art".

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Vecchiato, Alessandro <1993&gt. "Experiential marketing in luxury perfume as a driver of competitive advantage". Master's Degree Thesis, Università Ca' Foscari Venezia, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/10579/10650.

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Investigate the experiential marketing and retail artification concepts in a critical way. With the help of qualitative research tools, investigations of new ways to create and enhance customer experience of existing perfume brands.

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Costa, Claudia Silva Cortez Pereira da. "Estudo da correlação instrumental e sensorial de uma composição aromática aplicada na pele em função do ciclo menstrual". Universidade de São Paulo, 2013. http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/9/9139/tde-04082015-123559/.

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A área de perfumaria no mundo vem se desenvolvendo a cada dia buscando maior conhecimento das matérias-primas aromáticas, desde suas reações, estabilidade até suas interações com o substrato onde é aplicado, sempre em busca do conhecimento de todas as variáveis que possam influenciar a relação perfume-substrato e a aceitação dos consumidores, medida por meio da avaliação sensorial. Apesar de muitos estudos sobre a relação perfume-pele, poucos envolveram a relação com ciclo menstrual. Neste estudo o objetivo foi correlacionar às análises sensorial e instrumental (medidas biomecânicas e cromatográficas), estudar as matérias-primas aromáticas em função do ciclo menstrual. O estudo envolveu indivíduos com idade entre 18-40 anos: 29 mulheres e 3 homens, estes usados como grupo controle. Cada voluntária teve 40 µl da composição aromática Ciclo 1910 aplicado no antebraço, onde foram feitas as medidas biomecânicas (corneometria, sebumetria e TEWL) nos tempos inicial e 6h. Nos tempos inicial, 1.5h, 3h, 4,5h e 6h se auto-avaliaram sensorialmente a intensidade de perfume por meio de escala sensorial de magnitude rotulada (LMS) e foram coletados os compostos aromáticos liberados pela técnica de headspace e analisados por espectrometria com cromatografia a gás e detetor de massa (CGMS). Realizou-se também medidas biomecânicas de corneometria, sebumetria e TEWL interescapulares em 5 voluntárias nos tempos inicial e 6h para comparação. Os resultados obtidos foram que as fases do ciclo não interferiram nas variáveis biomecânicas (p>0,05) quando analisadas isoladamente. Para as medidas realizadas no antebraço, os índices de Corneometria (p<0,001) e TEWL (p: 0,011) na região tratada apresentou média maior que a do controle. A média dos índices de Corneometria e Sebumetria da região do antebraço tratada foi menor (p<0,001) que da região interescapular. Na análise cromatográfica não houve um padrão de resposta em diferentes fases do ciclo. As correlações entre a avaliação sensorial e instrumental (cromatografia e propriedades biomecânicas) não observaram nenhum nível de correlação (p>0,05). A Cromatografia (dados cromatográficos) foi maior na fase Folicular que nas fases Menstrual e Ovulatória (p=0,003), ao considerar como variável resposta em função do ciclo menstrual e da avaliação sensorial. Houve uma forte correlação positiva entre a análise sensorial e a avaliação na pele do homem (p<0,001). No entanto, o fator intrínseco do indivíduo Mulher influenciou na resposta, ocasionando grande variabilidade, porém percebeu-se claramente que os hormônios sexuais interferiram na resposta sensorial, cromatográfica e biomecânica da pele.
The perfumery in the world has been developed everyday bringing more knowledge about aromatic raw-materials, as from chemistry reactions, stability until their interactions with substrate where is applied, always looking for variables could influence in the relation perfume-substrate and consumer acceptability, measured by sensory evaluation. Despite a lot of studies were done on this subject, few involved effects as function of menstrual cycle. The aim of this study was to correlate sensory and instrumental analysis (biomechanical and chromatographic measurements), to study the olfactory profile of raw materials in function of menstrual cycle. The study involved people with 18-40 years old: 29 volunteers, three men, who were used as control group. Each volunteer had 40 µl of perfume applied on forearm, where were done Biomechanical measurements (Corneometer, Sebumeter and TEWL) at initial and 6h, At time initial, 1.5h, 3h, 4.5h and 6h; they did self-sensory assessment in perfume intensity in own forearm using labeled magnitude scale (LMS) and also where aromatic compounds released were collected by headspace technique spectrometry and gas chromatography with mass detector (CGMS). In addition, it was done biomechanical measurements (Corneometer, Sebumeter and TEWL) on interscapular region at initial and 6h for comparing. Resulting that the phases of the cycle did not affect the biomechanical variables (p > 0.05) when analyzed individually. For measurements in the forearm, Corneometry index (p < 0.001) and TEWL (p=0.011) in the treated area were higher than the control. The average of the Sebumetry, Corneometry indexes of the forearm treated was lower (p <0.001) than the interscapular region. In the analysis of chromatographic, there was a standard response at different stages of the menstrual cycle, however the analysis by individual had no a pattern response to the release of aromatic compounds. The correlations between sensory and instrumental (chromatography and biomechanical properties) did not observe any correlation (p> 0.05). But when considering chromatography as the response variable as a function of the menstrual cycle and the sensory evaluation, the follicular phase was higher than the Menstrual and Ovulatory phase (p=0.003). There was a strong positive correlation between sensory analysis and evaluation on men skin (p<0.001). However, the intrinsic factor of the individual woman influenced the response, leading to large response variability; however, see clearly that sex hormones interfere in the sensory response, chromatographic and biomechanics of the skin.

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SAIYASOMBATI, PENPAN. "MATHEMATICAL MODEL FOR PREDICTING THE PERCUTANEOUS ABSORPTION OF FRANGRANCE RAW MATERIALS". University of Cincinnati / OhioLINK, 2003. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=ucin1061561348.

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Godoy, Junior Luiz Antonio Fonseca de. "Emprego de métodos quimiométricos em análises por cromatografia gasosa bidimensional abrangente". [s.n.], 2011. http://repositorio.unicamp.br/jspui/handle/REPOSIP/249332.

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Orientadores: Ronaldo Aloise Pilli, Fabio Augusto
Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Quimica
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Resumo: Nesta tese, foram construídos modelos quimiométricos a partir de cromatogramas de diferentes amostras obtidos por cromatografia gasosa bidimensional abrangente com detecção por ionização em chama (GC×GC-FID). Numa primeira aplicação, modelos foram desenvolvidos para identificar adulteração em gasolina. Para isso, uma amostra de gasolina não adulterada fornecida pela Agência Natural do Petróleo (ANP) foi utilizada na preparação de um conjunto de calibração e de um conjunto de validação de amostras de gasolinas adulteradas. Em seguida, o modelo construído foi utilizado para avaliar outras amostras de gasolinas e os resultados obtidos foram comparados com os resultados obtidos pela ANP. Em um segundo estudo com gasolinas, 51 amostras foram fornecidas pela ANP juntamente com os resultados dos testes físico-químicos utilizados pela agência na avaliação da qualidade da gasolina. O objetivo deste estudo foi a elaboração de modelos quimiométricos utilizando dados de GC×GC-FID para a previsão de parâmetros físico-químicos de gasolina. Os métodos de seleção de variáveis siPLS e algoritmo genético foram utilizados na preparação de modelos para a previsão da temperatura de destilação a 10, 50 e 90 % v/v de destilado e no ponto final da destilação. Um modelo PLS foi construído para a previsão da densidade das amostras de gasolinas. Em um terceiro estudo, utilizando PARAFAC e GC×GC-FID, foi realizada a diferenciação entre amostras de gasolina do Brasil e da Venezuela, devido ao intenso contrabando de gasolina existente da Venezuela para o Brasil. Em uma quarta aplicação, foi desenvolvido um algoritmo para seleção de intervalos em dados de ordem superior, o qual foi avaliado através da quantificação de alergênicos em perfumes. Por último, foi relatado o primeiro uso de MCR-ALS na construção de modelos quimiométricos utilizando-se dados obtidos por GC×GC-FID para quantificação de óleo essencial de alecrim em amostras complexas preparadas em laboratório
Abstract: In this thesis, some chemometric models were built using chromatograms of different kinds of samples obtained by comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography with flame ionization detection (GC×GC-FID). In the first application, models were developed to identify adulteration in commercial gasoline samples. A non-adulterated gasoline sample provided by the Agência Nacional do Petróleo (ANP) was used to build a calibration and a validation sample set of adulterated gasoline. Then, the built model was used to evaluate other gasoline samples and the obtained results were compared to the results obtained by ANP. In a second study with gasoline, 51 samples were supplied by ANP with the results of the physicochemical tests used by ANP to evaluate the quality of gasoline samples. The aim of this study was the elaboration of chemometric models using GC×GC-FID chromatograms to preview some of the physicochemical tests used by ANP. The variable selection siPLS and genetic algorithm methods were used to build multivariate models in order to preview the distillation temperatures of gasoline at 10, 50 and 90 % v/v of distillated and at the final point of the distillation. A PLS model was built to predict the density of the gasoline samples. In a third study, using PARAFAC and GC×GC-FID, it was performed the differentiation between Brazilian and Venezuelan gasoline, due to the intense smuggling of gasoline from Venezuela to Brazil. In a fourth application, an algorithm was developed for variable selection in multi-way data, which was evaluated by quantification of allergens in perfume. Finally, it was reported the first use of MCR-ALS algorithm to develop chemometric models using data obtained by GC×GC-FID to quantify rosemary essential oil in complex samples prepared in laboratory
Doutorado
Quimica Analitica
Doutor em Ciências

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ZAMORA-ESTRADA, GRETTEL. "PARTITIONING OF PERFUME RAW MATERIALS IN CONDITIONING SHAMPOOS USING GEL NETWORK TECHNOLOGY". University of Cincinnati / OhioLINK, 2006. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=ucin1155752606.

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Tuna, Sandra de Jesus Mendes Gonçalves. "Advertising in translation : the translation of cosmetics and perfume advertisements into Portuguese". Thesis, University of Warwick, 2004. http://wrap.warwick.ac.uk/1225/.

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Cross-cultural communication has acquired particular significance in contemporary societies, where the world-wide traffic of people, goods and ideas, which has impacted upon social and cultural values, raises debates over globalisation issues. Translation plays a crucial role in these interchanges, by mediating the socio-cultural contacts between different language communities. The present study aims to look into the translation of advertisements that cross borders, and that are part of the cross-cultural flow. It will attempt to describe and discuss the translation strategies employed in the translation of perfume and cosmetics print advertisements in to Portuguese.F or this purpose, a selection of English and Portuguese advertisements of the major brands of these products has been made, so as to (a) outline the main translation approaches adopted in the translation into Portuguese, (b) compare them to the major approaches adopted in English advertisements of the same type, (c) discuss major issues in translation studies raised by the specificity of international advertising, and (d) infer some of the (cultural) factors conditioning these options. This analysis will consider the different constitutive dimensions of these multimodal messages, namely pictorial and verbal elements, the combination of which is believed to influence the translational approaches and processes. This study also seeks to demonstrate that discursive features and translation strategies a re-connected with the societies they are part of and hence both affect and reflect the existing cultural conditions and power relations. This view of discursive practices, particularly translation, as part of the wide cultural system, has required an approach that draws on different disciplines, namely discourse and serniotic analysis, media studies in advertising and international marketing, as well as studies in translation.

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Miranda, Anay Cardoso y 92-9212-4403. "A problemática da transposição do sentido de olfato em O Perfume - a história de um assassino, de Patrick Süskind e em Perfume - a história de um assassino, de Tom Tykwer". Universidade Federal do Amazonas, 2017. http://tede.ufam.edu.br/handle/tede/6131.

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The present study has the aim to analyze comparatively Patrick Süskind´s novel Perfume – the history of a murderer (2006) and the homonymous movie of Tom Tykwer (2006), with focus on the concern of the sense of smell. The issue related to adapt novels to cinema has gained special attention of researchers on the fields of Literary Studies, Comparative Literature and Cinema Studies, nevertheless this study is conceived on Literary Studies field. The historical facts raised on the novel and transposed into the film refers to issues on postmodernity and highlight that the critic of the past, in terms of rewriting those facts, has a significant importance. The research is qualitative and for the comparative analysis of the novel and the movie, the corpus was referring to fotograms, the movie script and the excerpts of the novel in order to analyze how authors transpose the sense of smell in each of artistic products, the novel and the movie. It was perceived that the use of metaphors, comparisons and other figures of speech, overriding memory, has the relation with the process of representing the senses, with the focus on smell, in Patrick Süskind´s novel. Concerning to the movie, it was possible to ascertain that the protagonist was taken as more human and that transposition of the sense of smell came from the montage of images and the overriding of memory from the specific sequences as well as from the narrative aspects of it by means of illumination and soundtracks.
O presente trabalho tem como objetivo realizar a análise comparativa do romance de Patrick Süskind, O perfume – a história de um assassino (1985) e do filme Perfume – a história de um assassino, de Tom Tykwer (2006), com foco na questão da transposição do sentido do olfato. A questão da adaptação de romances para o cinema tem recebido atenção especial por parte de pesquisadores na área de Estudos Literários, de Literatura Comparada e dos Estudos relativos ao Cinema, porém o presente estudo está abrigado no campo relativo aos Estudos Literários. Os aspectos históricos levantados no romance e transpostos no filme tratam de questões relativas à pós-modernidade e evidenciam que a crítica ao passado, em nível de reescrita de fatos históricos, tem importância significativa. A pesquisa caracteriza-se como qualitativa e para a análise comparativa do romance e do filme, o corpus da pesquisa foi constituído por fotogramas, pelo movie script e por partes do romance a fim de analisar como os autores realizam a transposição do sentido do olfato, em cada um dos objetos artísticos, romance e filme. Verificou-se que o uso de metáforas, comparações e outras figuras de linguagem, no acionamento da memória, tem relação com o processo de representação dos sentidos, com destaque para o sentido do olfato, no romance de Patrick Süskind. Com relação ao filme de Tom Tykwer, foi possível verificar que o protagonista recebeu um caráter mais humano e que a transposição do sentido do olfato se deu pela montagem das imagens e o acionamento da memória, verificado em sequências específicas, bem como quanto aos aspectos narrativos presentes nessa montagem por meio da iluminação e da trilha sonora.

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Piva, Paula Cristina [UNESP]. "Cheira bem pode fazer mal: a configuração de O perfume como romance policial". Universidade Estadual Paulista (UNESP), 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/11449/99180.

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Essa dissertação dispõe-se a estudar o romance O perfume do escritor alemão Patrick Süskind, publicado pela primeira vez em 1985. Tem-se o objetivo de demonstrar como essa obra, que antecipa no subtítulo ser a história de um assassino, se configura em romance policial. Para viabilizar o trabalho, busca-se subsídio na teoria da literatura policial e na história desse gênero, permitindo então estabelecer semelhanças e distinções. Antes, porém, discorre-se brevemente sobre os variados gêneros que compõem O perfume, que leva ao extremo a definição de romance, ou seja, uma composição híbrida por excelência. A obra em questão mescla, além das duas categorias principais do romance policial, a saber, enigma e negro, os gêneros predecessores a ele. O perfume rompe as convenções da ficção policial, com isso, aproximá-lo do gênero possibilita que outros romances sejam analisados pelo mesmo viés e possam eventualmente ser considerados também romances policiais, embora aparentemente estejam distantes do romance policial tradicional
This essay intends to study one of Patrick Süskind’s novels, Perfume, published for the first time in 1985. Our goal is to show how this work, which subtitle foresees the story of a killer, is configured in a crime novel. To make this concrete, we look for some data in the theories of the crime novel and in the history of this gender, which allow us to establish similarities and distinctions. Previously, however, we briefly expose the several literary genders that compose Perfume, carrying the definition of the novel too far; in other words, a hybrid composition par excellence. The work at issue blends, besides the two main categories of the crime novel (the mystery and the noir one) the predecessor genders to it. Perfume tears the conventions of crime fiction; then, approaching this novel to the gender makes it possible for other novels to be analyzed the same way, so that they can occasionally be considered crime novels as well, although apparently far from the traditional crime stories

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26

Magnusson, Evelina. "Describing scent : On the translation of hyphenated premodifiers in a text about perfume". Thesis, Linnéuniversitetet, Institutionen för språk (SPR), 2021. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:lnu:diva-106973.

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This small-scale study examines the translation of a text about perfumes, focusing on how hyphenated premodifiers in the English source text were translated into Swedish. A quantitative analysis was carried out, where the various premodifying structures present in the source text were identified and categorized according to their individual constituents and frequencies of the various categories were calculated. A similar analysis was also performed regarding the corresponding structures found in the Swedish target text. The results were then compared to and contrasted with other recent studies. In the qualitative analysis, individual examples from the text were analysed more in depth, and the consequences of the translation choices made were discussed. The results demonstrated that English hyphenated premodifiers showed a great deal of structural variety. The most frequent structures were nouns occurring in the left-hand position and ed-participles occurring the right-hand position. A large majority of the hyphenated premodifiers were short, with only 5.5% consisting of three words or more. The results also showed that the most frequent corresponding structure in the Swedish target text were compound adjectives, which comprised 48.1% of all examples. The results of the qualitative analysis pointed at a tendency towards explication, especially when hyphenated premodifiers were restructured to postmodifying phrases and clauses. Furthermore, a tendency to simplify the hyphenated modifiers during the translation process was noted, especially when translating longer, phrasal modifiers. It was noted that many hyphenated premodifiers in the ST were metaphorical in nature. This was sometimes, but not always, also the case in the corresponding TT phrases.

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27

Piva, Paula Cristina. "Cheira bem pode fazer mal : a configuração de "O perfume" como romance policial /". Araraquara : [s.n.], 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/11449/99180.

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Orientador: Silvana Vieira da Silva
Banca: Julio Cesar Pimentel Pinto Filho
Banca: Karin Volobuef
Resumo: Essa dissertação dispõe-se a estudar o romance O perfume do escritor alemão Patrick Süskind, publicado pela primeira vez em 1985. Tem-se o objetivo de demonstrar como essa obra, que antecipa no subtítulo ser a história de um assassino, se configura em romance policial. Para viabilizar o trabalho, busca-se subsídio na teoria da literatura policial e na história desse gênero, permitindo então estabelecer semelhanças e distinções. Antes, porém, discorre-se brevemente sobre os variados gêneros que compõem O perfume, que leva ao extremo a definição de romance, ou seja, uma composição híbrida por excelência. A obra em questão mescla, além das duas categorias principais do romance policial, a saber, enigma e negro, os gêneros predecessores a ele. O perfume rompe as convenções da ficção policial, com isso, aproximá-lo do gênero possibilita que outros romances sejam analisados pelo mesmo viés e possam eventualmente ser considerados também romances policiais, embora aparentemente estejam distantes do romance policial tradicional
Abstract: This essay intends to study one of Patrick Süskind's novels, Perfume, published for the first time in 1985. Our goal is to show how this work, which subtitle foresees the story of a killer, is configured in a crime novel. To make this concrete, we look for some data in the theories of the crime novel and in the history of this gender, which allow us to establish similarities and distinctions. Previously, however, we briefly expose the several literary genders that compose Perfume, carrying the definition of the novel too far; in other words, a hybrid composition par excellence. The work at issue blends, besides the two main categories of the crime novel (the mystery and the noir one) the predecessor genders to it. Perfume tears the conventions of crime fiction; then, approaching this novel to the gender makes it possible for other novels to be analyzed the same way, so that they can occasionally be considered crime novels as well, although apparently far from the traditional crime stories
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28

Grant, Grainne Louise. "The Greek sense of smell : olfactory perception and the sociocultural roles of perfume in antiquity". Thesis, University of Exeter, 2014. http://hdl.handle.net/10871/17556.

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Olfactory perception is as sociocultural a phenomenon as it is a physiological one. Scents of all types and the meanings assigned to them contribute to and shape human cultures, and humans have deliberately manipulated smells to sway the opinions and value judgements of others since, at the very least, the dawn of agriculture. ‘Smellscapes’ define our environments. How we smell what we smell and why we interpret what we smell the way we do are inextricably intertwined, and this was no less true in the Classical world. When we study how people in antiquity examined the sense of smell in general and the corresponding roles of perfume in particular, we see many of the same issues and questions being raised as concern scientists today. Applying modern models to ancient practices can enhance insight into Greek and Roman cultures. This paper will discuss physiological olfactory perception as the authors in the Classical and Hellenistic periods defined and described that, and will examine the primary literature regarding perfume in order to provide a specific example of one way in which we can be initiated into the mysteries of a different and long-gone cultural sensorium through the written word.

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29

Penkal, Sandra. "A inter-relação da arte, design e marca: Tarsila, a artista e o perfume". Universidade Presbiteriana Mackenzie, 2006. http://tede.mackenzie.br/jspui/handle/tede/2043.

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The aim of this work is to study and make a reflection about the interrelation among the art, the design of products and the commercial marks of the current Cultural Industry. As a research object, the signic dimension of the Manacá/1927 image of the painter Tarsila do Amaral is considered, applied to the product marks of a company of cosmetics and perfumery section of the Brazilian market ( O Boticário ). It can be understood that in all of the times, human groups always used expression behaviors, sense manifestation and social communication, and other language ways. Therefore, the structure of this dissertation is based on a semiotic vision and of the construction of a commercial mark, through the use of artistic sources as symbolic elements that join and enlarge its value. Strong symbols confer a larger link and structure to a mark identity, giving it an easier and fast of being recognized and reminded. Great part of the Brazilian industries, in the most different sections, still doesn t possess a tradition in the use of a design based in elements typically national, resulting, this way, in the reproduction of concepts developed by other countries. Recently, however, some segments already use resources and national data in the conception, creation and development of consumption products. This way, starting from the interchange among art X design to the design X art, including the process of decoding of the work, the public can be moved toward the artistic culture and the national design can be solidified with investments to create and produce products, as demonstrated in this work.
A dissertação propõe um estudo e uma reflexão sobre a inter-relação entre a arte, o design de produtos e as marcas comerciais da atual Indústria Cultural. Como objeto de pesquisa, é considerada a dimensão sígnica da obra Manacá/1927, da pintora Tarsila do Amaral, aplicada a marcas de produtos de uma empresa no setor de cosméticos e perfumaria do mercado brasileiro ( O Boticário ). Entende-se que em todos os tempos, grupos humanos sempre usaram modos de expressão, de manifestação de sentido e de comunicação social e outras formas de linguagem. Destarte, a estrutura desta dissertação está baseada numa visão semiótica e da construção de uma marca comercial, através da utilização de fontes artísticas como elementos simbólicos que agregam e ampliam o seu valor. Pois, fortes símbolos conferem maior unidade e estrutura a uma identidade de marca, tornando-a mais fácil e rápida de ser reconhecida e lembrada. Grande parte das indústrias brasileiras, nos mais distintos setores, ainda não possui uma tradição na utilização de um design fundamentado em elementos tipicamente nacionais, resultando, assim, na reprodução de conceitos desenvolvidos por outros países. Contudo, recentemente alguns segmentos já vêem utilizando recursos e dados nacionais na conceituação, criação e desenvolvimento de produtos de consumo. Deste modo, a partir do trânsito entre arte X design para o design X arte, abrangendo o processo de decodificação da obra, pode-se aproximar um pouco mais o público da cultura artística e solidificar o design nacional com investimentos na criação e produção de produtos, conforme demonstrado neste trabalho.

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Sena, Taísa Vieira. "Análise semiótica da estesia midiática nas publicidades impressas de perfume de luxo na Vogue Brasil". Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo, 2015. https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/4753.

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The thesis problematics focuses on the ways how luxury perfume aesthesia is developed in the aesthetic arrangements of printed advertising. We question how these modes contribute to identity construction of applied enunciatees in such advertisements. The research intents are: to analyze the aesthetic experience proposed in advertising; to identify the aesthesic attributes that create the axiology of the scented being; to verify how the translation of the olfactory qualities of perfume is displayed and how it can trigger moods; to comprehend the mechanisms of how sensitive paths make feel the identity attributes proposed by brands and at last to develop a typology of the scented being. In the study object s cut, a set of 142 commercial perfume ads was selected from haute couture and prêt-à-porter brands, published in the regular editions of Vogue Brazil magazine from the years 2010 to 2014. These were approached by semiotics analysis on the verb-visual-spatial articulations of plastic-rhythmic arrangement of the expression plane and of the contents plane. The theoretical and methodological basis is the meaning generative path from Greimas semiotics, connected with Floch s plastic semiotics, Landowski s sociossemiotics, Oliveira's semiotics of the dressed body and Semprini s market semiotics. Achieved results are the mapping of kinds of aesthesic arrangements applied to convincement and the mediated experience of the perfume, as well as the determination of the simulacra of Addresser (product and brand) and Addressee (different segments of scented beings) settled in the advertisements
A problemática da tese centra-se nos modos como se desenvolve a estesia do perfume de luxo nos arranjos estéticos da publicidade impressa. Questiona-se como esses modos contribuem para a construção identitária dos enunciatários inscritos em tais publicidades. Os objetivos da pesquisa são: analisar a experiência estética proposta nas publicidades; identificar os atributos estésicos que criam a axiologia do ser perfumado; verificar como se apresenta a tradução das qualidades olfativas do perfume e como ela pode desencadear estados de alma; depreender os mecanismos de como os percursos sensíveis fazem sentir os atributos identitários propostos pelas marcas e, por fim, desenvolver uma tipologia do ser perfumado. No recorte do objeto de estudo, selecionou-se um conjunto de 142 anúncios publicitários de perfumes de marcas de alta-costura e prêt-à-porter, veiculados nas edições regulares dos anos de 2010 a 2014 da revista Vogue Brasil, abordados pela análise semiótica das articulações verbo-visual-espacial do arranjo plástico-rítmico do plano da expressão e as do plano do conteúdo. A base teórica e metodológica é o percurso gerativo do sentido da Semiótica de Greimas, em articulação com a semiótica plástica de Floch, a sociossemiótica de Landowski, a semiótica do corpo-vestido de Oliveira e a semiotica do mercado de Semprini. Os resultados alcançados são o mapeamento de tipos de arranjo estésico empregados para o convencimento e a experinência mediada do perfume, além da determinação de simulacros de Destinador (produto e marca) e de Destinatário (distintos segmentos de seres perfumados) instalados nos anúncios

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Fischer, Kysy Amarante. "Sempre fica um pouco de perfume : reverberações do Butoh no processo criativo de DNA de DAN". Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina, 2015. http://tede.udesc.br/handle/handle/1295.

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When I took interest in Butoh and wanted to know more about the subject, I soon realized that answers like what is Butoh or how does one dance Butoh? were not given to me. Still, I´ve been cultivating for a few years the research and practice of Butoh. Between approximations and questionings, I realized that my interest resided in this disturbance of wanting to know and the kind of relationship made possible by the choice of not saying, not showing, not revealing, etc. Something that doesn´t configure any egoism but, on the opposite, makes the artist responsible for his own desire of creation. Through the interest towards this figure of the other that accompanies and shares a search process, I report some experiences from the creative process of DNA de DAN, dance/instalation performance created with the artist Maikon K, in 2013, through the award Prêmio Funarte Petrobrás de Dança Klauss Vianna/2012, in which I was a body coach and director of movement. In this course I have experienced what can be this position of the other who listens, punctuates, suggests, argues and proposes questions. The theoretical reflections and the themes approached by this work are thoughts that the practice produced like, for instance, the ideas of self cultivation by Michel Foucault and the spiritual exercises by Pierre Hadot. All those questions contribute to the thought of an ethics of the artistic doings.
Quando me interessei pelo Butoh e desejei saber mais sobre o assunto, logo percebi que as respostas como o que é Butoh? ou como se dança Butoh? não me eram dadas. Ainda assim, por alguns anos cultivo a pesquisa e a prática do Butoh. Entre aproximações e questionamentos percebi que meu interesse residia nessa perturbação de querer saber e no tipo de relação possibilitada pela escolha do não-dizer, não mostrar, não revelar, etc. Algo que não configura qualquer egoísmo, mas que torna o artista responsável pelo seu desejo de criação. Através do interesse por essa figura do outro que acompanha e compartilha um processo de busca, relato experiências no processo criativo de DNA de DAN, performance de dança/instalação criada com o artista Maikon K, em 2013, através do Prêmio Funarte Petrobrás de Dança Klauss Vianna/2012, na qual fui preparadora corporal e orientadora de movimento. Nesse percurso vivenciei o que pode ser essa posição de outro que ouve, pontua, sugere, discute e lança questões. As reflexões teóricas e as temáticas abordadas neste trabalho são apontamentos que a prática produziu, como, por exemplo, as ideias de cultivo de si de Michel Foucault e os exercícios espirituais de Pierre Hadot. Questões essas que contribuem para pensar uma ética do fazer artístico

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32

Arnold, Enelise. "Gênero e história nas obras "Perfume de gardenia" e "Solitária solidária" da escritora venezuelana Laura Antillano". reponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFRGS, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/10183/10920.

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Este trabalho tem como objetivo realizar um estudo sobre os romances Perfume de Gardenia (1984) e Solitaria Solidaria (1990) da escritora venezuelana Laura Antillano, enfocando o momento histórico que as obras refratam, ou seja, das últimas décadas do século XIX a meados do século XX, período em que a Venezuela estava exposta a regimes ditatoriais e a um intenso processo de capitalização a partir da exploração do petróleo. Por meio de um aporte teórico que enfatiza as questões de Gênero, busca-se estabelecer vínculos entre Literatura e História. O trabalho inclui a perspectiva de Gênero a partir de um ponto de vista que abrange tanto o universo masculino quanto o feminino. Laura Antillano, por meio de sua escritura dá oportunidade às mulheres de enunciarem suas histórias, incluindo seus pontos de vista. Apesar de estarem rodeadas por figuras que tem o poder de silenciá-las, as personagens principais das obras de Antillano analisadas conseguem que suas experiências e relatos não sejam apagados pela cultura dita “oficial” e fazem com que, por meio da literatura, suas vozes possam ecoar. Nesta dissertação, desenvolve-se brevemente questões como os títulos Perfume de Gardenia e Solitaria Solidaria, obras inseridas em um panorama mais amplo sobre os dois romances analisados e sobre os narradores existentes neles. Posteriormente, no capítulo 3, retoma-se teoricamente a questão de Gênero, dando uma visão geral do que se entende por tal conceito. No capítulo seguinte, as questões de gênero são aplicadas de forma mais específica às obras que formam o corpus desta dissertação, sendo examinadas especificamente a partir da teoria desenvolvida por Elaine Showalter sobre “Território Selvagem” e da teoria de Susan Winnet sobre os princípios de prazer dentro das narrativas. Dando continuidade a esta dissertação, são analisadas as mulheres-personagem existentes nos romances de Antillano. Para finalizar, implementa-se um estudo dos romances Perfume de Gardenia e Solitaria Solidaria, tendo em vista a literatura e sua reescritura e a tradição oral e escrita, incorporando as idéias de Ria Lemaire para a análise de textos que são objeto desta pesquisa.
Este trabajo tiene como objetivo investigar las novelas Solitaria Solidaria (1990) y Perfume de Gardenia (1984) de la escritora venezolana Laura Antillano, enfocando el momento histórico que las obras reflejan, o sea, las últimas décadas del siglo XIX hasta la segunda mitad del siglo XX, época en que Venezuela estaba expuesta a regímenes dictatoriales y a un intenso proceso de capitalización a partir de la explotación del petróleo. Utilizando un aporte teórico que enfatiza las cuestiones de Género, se establecen vínculos entre Literatura y Historia. Incluir la perspectiva de Género significa abarcar tanto el universo masculino cuanto el femenino. Laura Antillano, por medio de su escritura da, principalmente, oportunidad a las mujeres enunciaren sus historias, planteando sus puntos de vista. A pesar de que estén rodeadas por figuras que tienen el poder de silenciarlas, los personajes principales de las obras de Antillano analizadas, consiguen que sus experiencias y relatos no sean borrados por la cultura dicha “oficial” y hacen resonar sus voces por medio de la literatura. En este trabajo, se desarrolla cuestiones, como el significado de los nombres de las obras Perfume de Gardenia y Solitaria Solidaria, inseridas en un panorama más amplio sobre las dos novelas estudiadas y sobre los narradores existentes en ellas. Luego, en el capítulo 3, la cuestión de Gênero es definida teoricamente, dando una visión general de lo que se entiende por tal concepto. A seguir las cuestiones de género son aplicadas de forma más específica a las obras que hacen parte del corpus de ficción de esa disertación, siendo examinadas específicamente a partir de la teoría desarrollada por Elaine Showalter sobre el “Território Selvagem y de la teoría de Susan Winnet sobre los principios del placer en las narrativas de Antillano. A continuación, son analizadas las mujeres-personajes existentes en las novelas de Antillano. Para finalizar, es implementado un estudio de las novelas Perfume de Gardenia y Solitaria Solidaria, tomando en cuenta la literatura y su reescritura, y la tradición oral y escrita, incorporando las idéias de Ria Lemaire para el examen de los textos que son objeto de esa investigación.

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33

Travis, Alyssa Rose. "The Effects of Political and Social Change on Women's Perfume and Cologne Advertising in the Early 1960s". Thesis, The University of Arizona, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/146685.

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This study investigates the causal relationship between social and political events and advertising. Focusing on a period of 1962 to 1965, this research studies the effects of the assassination of President John F. Kennedy as well as the Second Wave Feminist Movement on women's perfume and cologne advertising conventions. Qualitative research was used to analyze a sample of 800 women's perfume and cologne advertisements across the four year period. It was found that there was a decline in Upper-Class women portrayed in these ads from 1962 to 1965. This may be attributed to the assassination of JFK in November 1963 and the fall of Camelot. There was also an increase in the portrayal of sexualized women throughout the four years, which may be related to an increase in the availability of reliable birth control during the early 1960s. Overall, this study found that advertising conventions appeared to shift as a result of the social and political events of the time.

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34

Pronitcheva, Karina. "L'industrie de la parfumerie française et les musées : entre public et privé". Thesis, Sorbonne Paris Cité, 2016. http://www.theses.fr/2016USPCA018.

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Ce travail de recherche en muséologie porte sur la présentation de la parfumerie commerciale française dans les musées publics en France que ce soient des musées du parfum ou des musées d’art. En débutant par l’histoire de la présentation des produits commerciaux au musée depuis le milieu du XIXe siècle jusqu’aux expositions de marques de luxe au Costume Institute du Metropolitan Museum of Art dans les années 1980, cette étude se focalise par la suite sur la naissance et le développement de différents projets muséaux publics en lien avec la parfumerie (Château de Chamerolles, Esprit du Parfum à Chartres, Cour des Senteurs de Versailles, Collection Sylvie Guerlain-Traditions Verrières à la ville d’Eu) ainsi que sur l’essor des expositions de marques de luxe, dont de parfumerie, dans les musées publics (Chanel, Dior, Roger & Gallet). Les stratégies des pouvoirs publics, celles des marques de luxe ainsi que les motivations des musées publics qui accueillent les expositions de parfumerie sont analysées à tour de rôle. Une étude à part est dédiée au Musée International de la Parfumerie (1989) à Grasse qui est un musée de référence en France : à son histoire, à sa section contemporaine, à ses partenaires ainsi qu’à ses concurrents comme les parfumeries touristiques Fragonard, Molinard ou Galimard. Le dernier chapitre porte sur la programmation temporaire des grands magasins qui, en privilégiant l’art contemporain et les industries de la mode, développent de véritables équipements culturels à même de concurrencer les musées publics jusqu’à dissoudre progressivement les frontières entre un espace muséal et un espace commercial
This research in Museum studies focuses on exhibitions of French commercial perfumery in perfume and art museums throughout France. Starting with the history of exhibitions of commercial items in museums from the mid-19th century until luxury brands exhibitions at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in the 1980s, the study examines the birth and the development of different museum projects related to the French perfume industry (Château de Chamerolles, Esprit du Parfum in Chartres, Cour des Senteurs of Versailles, Collection Sylvie Guerlain-Traditions Verrières in the town of Eu) as well as the growth of luxury brands’ exhibitions in public museums (Chanel, Dior, Roger & Gallet). Public authorities’ policies, perfume brands’ strategies or motivations of public museums which host such exhibitions are analyzed one by one. The case of the International Museum of Perfumery (1989) in Grasse deserves a study in its own right: I consider the history of the museum, the museum’s section of the 20th century perfumery, the role of corporate sponsorship in enriching museum collections as well as the local competition from private perfume museums set up by Fragonard, Molinard or Galimard brands. The last chapter focuses on French department stores and their fashion exhibitions’ programs capable of competing with public museums’ attractions and leading to the progressive blurring of boundaries between a museum space and a commercial one

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Collotto, Lucia <1976&gt. "ODORI E PROFUMI DAGLI INDIANI AMERICANI: SPERIMENTAZIONI DI ANTROPOLOGIA DELL'OLFATTO ODOUR AND PERFUME FROM AMERICAN INDIANS: EXPERIMENTS ON OLFACTORY ANTHROPOLOGY". Master's Degree Thesis, Università Ca' Foscari Venezia, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/10579/7997.

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Stato dell’arte: l’antropologia dell’olfatto non è la più facile da esaminare vista la sua volatilità e volubilità. Autori contemporanei, italiani e stranieri, hanno argomentato sull’olfatto, ma mancano vere e proprie applicazioni. Inoltre società indigene, come gli Indiani Americani, utilizzano tutt’oggi l’olfatto per comunicare la propria spiritualità. Metodologia di ricerca: Panoramica sull’utilizzo dell’olfatto in alcune professioni e approfondimento etnografico con professionisti in servizio d’emergenza territoriale. L’approccio è sperimentale e derivato da un metodo olistico degli Indiani del Nord America: la ‘Medicine Wheel’, per testare l’effettivo utilizzo dell’olfatto. La parte del benessere spirituale è stata condotta focalizzando l’attenzione sulla purification/smudging degli Indiani Americani grazie al contatto stabilito presso la University of Pennsylvania. Obiettivi e implicazioni per l’antropologo: La caratteristica liminale dell’olfatto è stare in equilibrio tra il prettamente materiale e l’inafferrabile memoria personale. Popoli indigeni usano tutt’oggi la pratica di odorare il fumo di piante sacre per raggiungere un benessere totale. Ci sono professioni che utilizzano l’olfatto in modo materialmente utile, anche se non consapevolmente. Rilevare l’uso dell’olfatto in un modo olistico, all’interno di differenti lavori, può rivelare un mondo rimasto finora nell’ombra, svelandone i ricordi.

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Biosca, Mecías Adrià. "Numerical and Experimental Study of Glass in the Blow and Blow Forming Process for the Prediction of Thickness Distributions in Glass Perfume Containers". Doctoral thesis, Universitat Ramon Llull, 2020. http://hdl.handle.net/10803/668793.

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El disseny del motlle preparador és un punt crític en el desenvolupament de nous flascons ja que defineix la distribució d’espessors de vidre en les ampolles fabricades. Tot i això, el disseny d’aquestes cavitats encara es basa en el coneixement empíric i la metodologia d’assaig i error. Per aquestes raons, diverses proves de fabricació poden ser necessàries, les quals impliquen temps no productius i allarguen el temps de desenvolupament. Ramon Clemente és un fabricant de flascons de vidre que vol escurçar el buit actual entre l’experiència dels vidriers i el coneixement científic de les simulacions numèriques. L’objectiu és implementar un model que descrigui numèricament el comportament termomecànic del vidre en el procés de fabricació per bufat-bufat per predir la distribució d’espessors en els flascons. Així doncs, aquesta tesi es centra en un estudi numèric i experimental de la producció d’ampolles de vidre. Emprant una càmera termogràfica es van realitzar anàlisis tèrmiques sota condicions reals de fabricació. Aquestes inclogueren mesures experimentals de la gota de vidre, parison i flascons acabats en tot el procés productiu. A més, les operacions de conformat i les propietats del vidre definiren un marc teòric per modelar numèricament el procés de bufat-bufat amb ANSYS Polyflow. Posteriorment, es varen implementar dos models numèrics. Primer, un assaig de caiguda de la gota proporcionà una descripció del flux de vidre al llarg del temps per validar la caracterització de la viscositat i el flux no isotèrmic i newtonià previst per les simulacions. Desprès, un model numèric del procés de bufat-bufat per predir el repartiment d’espessors de vidre en els envasos fabricats. Els resultats numèrics es van correlacionar amb temperatures experimentals del vidre i amb els gruixos dels flascons tallats. Els resultats obtinguts permeten tenir una millor comprensió del comportament termomecànic del vidre dins de les cavitats dels motlles. A més, les simulacions predigueren correctament la distribució d’espessors al final del procés, en funció del disseny del motlle preparador i de les condicions de fabricació, tant en el model axisimètric com tridimensional. La validació del model numèric en tres dimensions és molt important per a Ramon Clemente, ja que obre la porta a predir numèricament els gruixos de flascons amb geometries complexes en lloc de limitar-se a ampolles axisimètriques. Per tant, permetent desenvolupar nous flascons de vidre pel sector de la perfumeria de forma més ràpida i de millor qualitat.
El diseño del molde preparador es un punto crítico en el desarrollo de nuevos frascos ya que define la distribución de espesores de vidrio en las botellas fabricadas. Todo y eso, el diseño de estas cavidades aún se basa en el conocimiento empírico y la metodología de ensayo y error. Por estas razones, pueden ser necesarias varias pruebas de fabricación, las cuales implican tiempo no productivo y alargan el tiempo de desarrollo. Ramon Clemente es un fabricante de frascos de vidrio que quiere reducir el vacio actual entre la experiencia de los vidrieros y el conocimiento científico de las simulaciones numéricas. El objetivo es implementar un modelo que describa numéricamente el comportamiento termo-mecánico del vidrio en el proceso de fabricación por soplado-soplado para predecir la distribución de grosores en los frascos. Así pues, esta tesis se centra en un estudio numérico y experimental de la producción de botellas de vidrio. Usando una cámara termográfica se realizaron análisis térmicos bajo condiciones reales de fabricación. Éstas incluyeron medidas experimentales de la gota de vidrio, parison y frascos acabados durante el proceso productivo. Además, las operaciones de conformado y las propiedades del vidrio definieron un marco teórico para modelar numéricamente el proceso de soplado-soplado con ANSYS Polyflow. Posteriormente, se implementaron dos modelos numéricos. Primero, un ensayo de caída de la gota proporcionó una descripción del flujo de vidrio a lo largo del tiempo para validar la caracterización de la viscosidad y el flujo no isotérmico y newtoniano previsto por las simulaciones. Después, un modelo numérico del proceso de soplado-soplado para predecir el reparto de espesores de vidrio en los envases fabricados. Los resultados numéricos se correlacionaron con temperaturas experimentales del vidrio y con los grosores de los frascos cortados. Los resultados obtenidos permiten tener una mejor comprensión del comportamiento termo-mecánico del vidrio dentro de las cavidades de los moldes. Además, las simulaciones predijeron correctamente la distribución de espesores al final del proceso, en función del diseño del molde preparador y de las condiciones de fabricación, tanto en el modelo axisimétrico cómo tridimensional. La validación del modelo numérico en tres dimensiones es muy importante para Ramon Clemente, ya que abre las puertas a predecir numéricamente los grosores de los frascos con geometrías complejas en lugar de limitarse a botellas axisimétricas. Por lo tanto, permitiendo desarrollar nuevos frascos de vidrio para el sector de la perfumería de forma más rápida y de mejor calidad.
The design of the blank mold cavity is a critical step in the development of new perfume containers as it defines the glass thickness distribution of the manufactured bottles. Despite that, mold cavity design is still based on empirical knowledge and trial and error. Hence, several manufacturing tests may be required, which increase time to market and involve significant downtimes. Ramon Clemente is a glass manufacturing company that wants to bridge the gap between industrial experience in glassmaking and scientific and engineering knowledge present in numerical simulations. The goal is to implement a numerical model to describe the thermo-mechanical behavior of glass during the blow and blow forming process and predict the glass thickness distribution of the manufactured bottles. Therefore, this thesis focuses on a numerical and experimental study of the production of glass perfume containers. Then, thermal analyses were performed using an infrared thermal camera under industrial manufacturing conditions. These included experimental measurements of the glass gob, parison and final container throughout the forming process. In addition, forming operations and glass properties defined a framework to numerically model the blow and blow forming process using ANSYS Polyflow. Subsequently, two numerical models were implemented. First, a gob drop test to provide a description of the glass flow over time to validate the characterized viscosity and the Newtonian non-isothermal flow predicted by the simulations. Later, a numerical model of the blow and blow forming process to predict the glass thickness distribution of the manufactured containers. Numerical results were correlated with experimental glass temperatures and thickness distributions of sectioned containers. Results lead to gain a better understanding of the thermo-mechanical behavior of glass inside the mold cavities. Moreover, simulations successfully predicted the thickness distribution after the container forming process, showing the influence of the blank mold cavity and process conditions in both axisymmetric and three-dimensional models. Validation of the 3D model has strong implications for Ramon Clemente, as it paves the way for numerically predicting the glass thicknesses of complex perfume containers instead of being limited to axisymmetric bottles. Therefore, allowing to develop new glass containers faster and of better quality.

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Basto, Gómez Elizabeth Stella. "Olor y Derecho". Doctoral thesis, Universidad de Alicante, 2015. http://hdl.handle.net/10045/83755.

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Swardt, Delphine de. "Des mots au parfum. La création olfactive en société de composition". Thesis, Paris 3, 2014. http://www.theses.fr/2014PA030021.

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Un parfum aujourd’hui est le plus souvent produit dans un contexte industriel. Ce contexte favorise l’innovation et la recherche de nouvelles matières premières, tout en créant de fortes attentes sur le produit fini. Est ainsi formé un panorama de créations homogènes, répondant aux standards de modes olfactives. Commande des clients des sociétés de composition, le parfum est présenté comme une équivalence olfactive d’inspirations de mots et d’images. En l’absence d’un code olfactif strict, cette équivalence est renforcée par les textes descriptifs qui énumèrent les ingrédients ou leurs effets et transforment les parfums en signes complexes de leurs composés. Contestant la notion d’équivalence littérale entre les odeurs, les mots et les images, nous pensons néanmoins que le parfum fonctionne comme un système symbolique tel que ceux décrits par Nelson Goodman. Pour en comprendre la signification, on ne peut se limiter à la seule lecture immanente du parfum, il faut effectuer une ouverture pragmatique à l’étude des conditions de sa production et des relations entre les différents producteurs tout en envisageant le contexte culturel ainsi que ses usages. En effet, selon qu’il est senti sur mouillette ou porté par un individu, le parfum fonctionne différemment. Dans un cas, il dénote et exemplifie des objets ou des odeurs du monde, dans l’autre, il distingue. Il peut aussi avoir un fonctionnement esthétique et se rapprocher des formes symboliques artistiques, constituant la vision singulière d’un monde. Cette dimension cognitive et représentative du parfum contribue à renforcer la rupture entre les odeurs naturelles et les odeurs artefactuelles à prétention artistique
More often than not, a perfume is created within an industrial context, which entails innovation and searching for new raw materials, while at the same time creating expectations for the finished product. A homogenous landscape is created in response to the olfactory standards of fashion. Ordered by clients to their fragrance house suppliers, the fragrance is presented as an olfactory equivalent to words and images. Because no strong olfactory code exists, this equivalence is reinforced by descriptive texts, which support fragrances by naming their ingredients and effects, and thereby transform fragrances into complex signs of their components. Contesting the possibility of any literal equivalence between smells, words and images, we think nonetheless that a perfume functions as a symbolic system, akin to those described by Nelson Goodman. In order to understand the meaning of a fragrance, one cannot focus on an immanent reading of it. One is better advised to gauge it pragmatically, through the study of the conditions of its production and the relationships between producers, never neglecting the cultural perspective or the uses put to it. Indeed, depending on whether the fragrance is smelt on paper strips or worn by a person, it functions in different ways. In the former case, it denotes or exemplifies objects or smells of the world, whereas in the latter, it creates a distinction. It can also function aesthetically, not unlike the symbolic forms of art, and constitute the singular vision of a world. Both cognitive and depictive, this dimension of a fragrance helps differentiate natural smells from artificial ones which have taken on an aesthetic value

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39

Cevallos, Vera Franco Alex, Villanueva Francisco Horacio Pereda y Uchima Dany Richard Shidochy. "La influencia de la responsabilidad social empresarial en el comportamiento de compra de consumidores limeños de perfume de entre 18 y 24 años". Master's thesis, Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú, 2013. http://tesis.pucp.edu.pe/repositorio/handle/123456789/13552.

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En el Perú, la Responsabilidad Social Empresarial viene ganando casi la misma importancia que está alcanzando en el mundo y en nuestro medio se han realizado algunos estudios empíricos que explican su impacto en el consumidor. Esta investigación busca contribuir a ampliar los hallazgos de dichos estudios previos, enfocándose en la influencia que la Responsabilidad Social Empresarial ejerce en el comportamiento de compra de perfume de una muestra de limeños de ambos sexos, de entre 18 y 24 años. Se desarrolló un experimento bajo la Metodología de los Modelos de Elección Discreta para poder cuantificar la intención de compra y el peso de las actividades de responsabilidad social en la disposición a pagar. El experimento se llevó a cabo utilizando una muestra por conveniencia de 132 consumidores limeños con las referidas características y sus resultados brindaron evidencia empírica de la relación positiva existente entre la Responsabilidad Social Empresarial y el comportamiento de compra de la muestra. Los resultados del estudio indican que el efecto de la Responsabilidad Social Empresarial en su conjunto es superior al de las Competencias Corporativas en la muestra. Esta Tesis es una ampliación del alcance de la investigación doctoral del profesor Percy Samoel Marquina Feldman, La influencia de la Responsabilidad Social Empresarial en el Comportamiento de Compra de los Consumidores Peruanos (Marquina, 2009). Se busca validar si la relación identificada originalmente por el profesor Marquina se presenta también en otro producto del mismo cuadrante en la matriz Foote, Cone, y Belding (en este caso, perfumes). Con la autorización del autor, se ha utilizado partes de su tesis, en especial en lo referido a la revisión de la literatura y el método.
Tesis

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Dicksen, Sophie. "Genuskommunikation genom design : - En studie av form, färg och typsnitt på parfymflaskor". Thesis, Uppsala University, Media and Communication, 2007. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:uu:diva-7697.

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Uppsala Universitet Sophie Dicksen

Medie- och kommunikationsvetenskap C-uppsats

Abstract

Title: Communication of gender through design -A study of shapes and colors of perfumebottles and of the fonts on their labels.

(Genuskommunikation genom design -En studie av form, färg och typsnitt på parfymflaskor)

Number of pages: 39 (82 including enclosures)

Author: Sophie Dicksen

Tutor: Mats Lind

Course: Media- and Communication Studies C

Period: Autumn 2006

University: Division of Media and Communication, Department of information Science,Uppsala University

Purpose/Aim: To study whether gender is communicated through design, and if so is the case, the aim is also to see by which aspects gender is communicated.

Material/Method: 40 perfumebottles, 20 for women and 20 for men has been studied, and attributes such as their shapes, colors as well as the fonts on their labels has been analyzed in search of gender differences. An art director has also been interwiewed to receive information about genderdesign from a practical wiew.

Main results: There is no difference out of a gender perspective between the colors on the bottles in aspect of lightness but colors on ladieperfumes are generally more saturated and they are also more often located among yellow, orange and red shades on the color chart while perfumesbottles for men tend to consist of yellow, green and blue colors in more unsaturated versions. The results of the study of shapes showes that there are more cubes among the male perfumes than there are in the group of womensperfumes. Concidering the study of fonts does results prove that fonts on labels of male perfumes mostly belong to the most common group of fontfamilies. This compared to

perfumes for ladies where the the fonts varied between the two current fontgroups of the study, and therefore are bort rare and common. The interwiew with the art director gave that he sees differences between products for women and products for men out of a gender perspective. He claims that most perfumes for women generally have soft shapes, warm colors and scriptlike fonts with the opposite of attributes for men and he argues that those products not fitting in these

genderframes are products for women looking more masculine. According to the art director,products for men are more limited when it comes to design as they would rarely approach areas that would be considered as feminine.

Keywords: perfume, design, shape, color, font, gender, communication, interview

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Byl, Sheila Ann. "The essence and use of perfume in ancient Egypt". Diss., 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/10500/8105.

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The ancient Egyptians were famous for their exotic and luxury perfumes in the ancient world, even having cities that specialised in perfume production in the Ptolemaic Period, when they exported these perfumes all over the Mediterranean. They produced these perfumes, and other scented preparations, from aromatic plants, fats and oils. The deities were fragrant beings, imbued with the divine essence, and perfume was considered by the Egyptians to be the sweat of the god Ra. Some deities were specially linked to perfume, one of the most important being Nefertem, god of perfume and of the primordial fragrant blue lotus flower. Incense was to the Egyptians the ‘eye of Horus’, burnt as an offering to the deities in temples. Aromatic plant material was stored in perfume/unguent ‘laboratories’, and perfumers’ workshops produced the precious perfumed oils and unguents, used in the funerary context, rituals, ceremonies, festivals and banquets.
History
M.A.

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Lopes, Laurindo Alberto Tavares. "Projeto Aplicado “Acácias Perfume”". Master's thesis, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/10400.26/14262.

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O presente trabalho, visa implementar uma perfumaria na província de Benguela-Angola, e tem como objetivo identificar a relevância da mesma e aferir a viabilidade económica e financeira do negócio. O setor da perfumaria e cosméticos ainda são dos menos competitivos em Benguela, contudo o segmento desta junção apresenta uma enorme margem de progressão, pois a oferta ainda é escassa, e existe uma tendência de se procurar cada vez mais estes produtos. A ideia surgiu devido a presença de uma realidade precária na oferta e procura desses produtos naquela província em geral, para além disso, alia-se o facto de não existir nenhuma perfumaria na zona onde se pretende instalar a perfumaria. Como tal, entendeu-se estar perante uma boa oportunidade de negócio. Os meios financeiros necessários foram de, 70% de capitais próprios e 30% através de empréstimo bancário, a uma taxa de juro anual de 14%. O montante total do financiamento foi de 15 306 060,00 AOA. Com base em estudos científicos, pesquisas de campo, livros, entrevistas a pessoas singulares e coletivas, e um plano financeiro aplicado bem elaborado, obtivemos resultados satisfatórios principalmente se analisarmos os três critérios de avaliação mais preponderantes de um projeto aplicado tais como o valor atual líquido de 617 051 187,75 AOA, taxa interna de rentabilidade de 56,40%, e é expectável que o período de recuperação do investimento seja aproximadamente de 3 anos. Consequentemente, foram utilizadas técnicas estratégicas académicas focadas nas características do mercado que apresentaram boas perspetivas futuras através de uma relação entre a visão do investimento o custo de oportunidade do negócio. Portanto, conclui-se que é um investimento viável, devido a características do mercado e os recursos tangíveis e intangíveis que nele ostentam, bem como as perspetivas futuras de sustentabilidade que a mesma apresenta.
This work aims to implement a perfumery in the province of Benguela, Angola, and aims to identify the relevance of it and assess the economic and financial viability of the business. The industry of perfumery and cosmetics are still the least competitive in Benguela, yet the segment of this joint has a huge room for improvement because the supply is still scarce, and there is a tendency of consumers to increasingly thoses products. The idea arose from the presence of a precarious reality in supply and demand of these products in the province in general, moreover, it is combined with the fact that there is no fragrance in the area where you want to install the fragrance. As such, it was considered to be facing a good business opportunity. The necessary funds were 70% equity and 30% through bank loan at an annual interest rate of 14%. The total amount of funding was 15 306 060.00 AOA. Based on scientific studies, field surveys, books, interviews to natural and legal persons, and a well-designed applied financial plan, we achieved satisfactory results especially if we look at the three most prevalent criteria for evaluating an applied project such as the net present value of 617 051 187.75 AOA, internal rate of return of 56.40%, and it is expected that the investment recovery period is about 3 years. Accordingly, techniques have been academic strategies focused used in the market characteristics that showed good future prospects through a connection between the vision investment cost of business opportunities. Therefore, it is concluded that it is a viable investment due to market characteristics and the tangible and intangible assets that it sports, as well as future sustainability prospects it presents.

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Chen, Yung-Bin y 陳詠馪. "A Study on Perfume Bottle Images". Thesis, 2008. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/96853137074320913334.

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碩士
大葉大學
設計研究所
96
This paper discusses the shape and imagery issues related to the perfume bottle. In this article, I would like to analyze and reconstruct the elements of modeling perfume bottle in order to find out the recognized and understanding of its shape imagery by public with augmentation and flexible application in industry design. The purpose of this study is described as followed. First of all, it analyzes the sensuous which is come from the shape element and be transferred to the public. Secondly, let’s take a look at the observed effect of perfume bottle shape evaluated by various conditional perfume participators. Thirdly, we are interested in comparing and discussing the effect between the imagery of the perfume bottle shape and the smell of the contents with agreement. The research was divided in three different phases and analyzed data by statistic software, SPSS. The three phases are identified as material chosen, image adjective extraction, designing research questionary, sampling and research description. This conclusion of this paper will focus on three parts, the shape, the different samples, and the adaptability of container and within. 1. The shape: The result point that a shape of underslung, thickset, cloudy, low transparency, high percentage of metal component of perfume bottle creates an imagination of “male” and “strong”. On the contrary, a shape of attenuated, sliced, non-colorful, and high transparency gives an imagination of “female”. It also brings an imagination of neutralization if the bottle color is nearly yellow or crystal-clear. 2. The different samples: There is no influence in genders, but the fitness of female is slightly higher than male. Both sex felt the shape of feminized bottle much familiar in common. Generally speaking, the participators in both genders more like the shape of feminized one. And there is no influence of imagine judgment on differential sex and experience in using perfume. 3. The adaptability of container and within: The sexual sensuous of “No. 4” sample is much far from the orient setting of marketing strategy and the shape imagination of “No.6” sample is not coincidence with the imagery of the its perfume. Key Words : perfume, shape, image, synesthesia

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Cândido, José Vicente. "Perfumes enquanto objetos artísticos e comerciais. O modelo de negócio de um espaço cultural da PERFUMART Casa do Perfume". Master's thesis, 2015. http://hdl.handle.net/10071/11095.

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O perfume é um complexo edifício líquido ao qual a técnica e a criatividade desempenham um papel importante. Quase todos os seres humanos usam – ou, pelo menos, já usaram - um perfume ao longo das suas vidas. Esta investigação procurou, por um lado, discutir o carácter artístico do perfume, associado á sua vertente técnica e comercial. Por outro lado verificou-se a existência de dois públicos diferentes no que diz respeito ao uso de perfumes: os consumidores e os amantes de perfumes. Ao considerar o perfume enquanto presumível obra de arte colocou-se a possibilidade da criação de um museu onde o perfume possa ser exibido. Fez-se uma investigação, também incluindo inquéritos online, para averiguar, entre outros aspectos, a pertinência de tal espaço em Portugal. Terminado esse processo tratou-se de apresentar um modelo de negócio - adaptado aos consumidores e as características do mercado português – da PERFUMART – Casa do Perfume, utilizando o Business Model Canvas de Osterwalder e Pigneur, com os dados limitados sobre a indústria dos perfumes em Portugal
The perfume is a complex building where technique and creativity play an important role. Almost every human being use – or, at least, used – a perfume in the course of their lives. This investigation aimed, in one hand, to discuss the artistic character of the perfume, associated to its technical and commercial aspect. On the other hand the investigation recognized the existence of two different publics in respect to their use of perfumes: the consumers and the perfume lovers. Considering perfume as a presumable work of art there was a possibility of a museum creation where perfumes could be exhibited. An investigation, also with an online enquiry, was made to, as well as other aspects, to access the pertinence of such a place in Portugal. In the end of the research the author presents a business model – adapted to the Portuguese public and the Portuguese market – of the PERFUMART – Casa do Perfume, using the Business Model Canvas from Osterwalder and Pigneur together with the limited data available for the perfume industry in Portugal

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45

Huang, Li-Wen y 黃麗文. "Application of Aboriginal Love Myths to Perfume Design". Thesis, 2015. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/19495503127832968509.

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碩士
國立臺灣藝術大學
圖文傳播藝術學系
103
Perfumes are featured by fragrances that can evoke feelings and create imaginative atmosphere. In addition, it can present cultural characteristics and be the medium of connotation experience. This study interpreted culture peculiarity and atmosphere of aboriginal myths through fashion perfume design. With the development of the cultural perfume, more innovation value of aboriginal myths would be created. This study examined the empirical method of aboriginal myths, and designed cultural products with the Rukai myth, ”Alubaling”. Aboriginal legend elements were collected through textual analyses and inspire the insight of the perfume prescriptions. Field studies among tribes were conducted to obtain the content of myths, totems, animals, plants and minerals, which were design elements of perfumes bottles. The inspirations of perfumes and bottles were based on the love story around Ghost Lake from The Rukai by exploring the cultural elements. Three ingenious perfumes named “Monarch”, “Eternity” and “Courage” were developed, with the aim to promote the cultural value of aboriginal myths. This study focused on five-oriented topics, "cultural value", "design evaluation", "economic value", "shape imagery" and "aroma imagery" to design assessment questionnaire and evaluated samples to understand the facticity of the evolution of their civilization. After analyzing reliability and validity, sorted out three results of this research: 1. Develop three perfumes, of which both bottle style and aroma present aboriginal culture. 2. Build up the design model of cultural perfume. 3. Refer to different cultural import and tradition, design kinds of aboriginal culture perfume. In addition to creating aborigine's text to establish the merchandise’s new form, promote value of commodities though combining perfume design and culture.

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46

Chen, Songjung y 陳頌榮. "The Relation Between Perfume Bottle Appearance And Naming". Thesis, 2012. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/93027336044043255008.

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碩士
實踐大學
工業產品設計學系碩士班
100
This research investigates the relation between the bottle appearance and the name of perfumes and its impact on consumers’ recognition memory and liking, with a purpose to examine perfume bottle appearance designs and the naming effects of marketing strategies. To understand the memory effects, subjects were asked to judge whether they have learned (seen) a certain message and their responses were recorded to infer the causes that affect memory. Therefore, the experiment methods include recognition task and signal detection theory and employ Likert 5-point scale to survey consumers’ liking of a perfume. Experiment 1 was divided into two recognition tasks, testing subjects’ recognition memory and liking of the perfume bottle appearance and name. Experiment 1(A) shows that concrete features in perfume bottle appearance have significant effects on subjects’ recognition memory, but not on the liking score. When a perfume was recognized (hit response) in the recognition task, its liking score was significantly higher than those perfumes that were not recognized (miss response). Experiment 1(B) shows that concrete or Chinese names in perfumes has no significant effects on subjects’ recognition or liking, but names that were recognized had a significantly higher liking score than those unrecognized ones. The trends in the recognition and liking score and analysis of the liking ranking on hit responses show that perfume bottles appearance and names with a better recognition rate have higher liking scores, and vice versa. Experiment 2 investigates whether a consistent relation exists between the naming associations and the bottle appearance associations of perfumes on the market. The result shows that there is no definite consistency between the naming associations and the bottle appearance associations of perfumes on the market, indicating that the matching of the bottle appearance and the naming of a perfume might not be manipulated indirectly with affective nouns. However, affective nouns associated with color, taste, temperature, or motion are more likely to achieve a consistent association between the perfume bottle appearance and the name. When the concept of the perfume involves a fantasy creature or subject, concrete bottle features result in a higher consistency. Subjects showed higher liking and memory recognition scores for perfume bottles with bright and various colors. Therefore, instead of examining the associations between perfume names and bottle appearances, Experiment 3 investigates the matching rate between perfume names and bottle appearances by using matched perfumes (perfumes on the market) and unmatched perfumes (perfumes with randomly assigned bottles and names) as experiment material. The findings show that when subjects give a perfume a higher total liking score, they also give it a significantly higher matching score than those perfumes they like less. Secondly, the matching scores of matched perfumes are significantly higher than the unmatched perfumes, regardless of the total liking score. A significant interaction was also found between the matching of the perfumes and the total liking score. Unmatched perfumes with a lower liking score have a significantly lower matching score than other combinations. Besides, perfumes with a higher matching score have a significantly higher total liking score than those with a lower matching score. The matching score of the appearance and the name is positively correlated to the total liking score. In sum, to promote consumers’ memory or liking of a perfume, strategies such as “matching the appearance with the name” or “matching the name with the bottle” should be considered for designing perfumes with a high matching score of the bottle and the name. This strategy helps consumers to achieve a higher recognition fluency which will result in better memory effect and positive emotions.

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47

CHAO, CHEN LI y 陳立超. "A Fetishistic Perspective on Collecting Motivations:with Perfume as Example". Thesis, 2005. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/30526899659802726065.

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碩士
臺南藝術學院
博物館學研究所
93
Museums differ from other cultural institutions in that only museums collect objects, and use objects to perform their mission of exhibition and education. Personal collections are formed before museum collections, and therefore constitute one of the substantial concerns of museology. The study of the psychological motivations of collecting thus can contribute to the creation of the museology’s subjectivity. On the other hand, museology can develop perspectives based on its unique interest in collecting, so as to derive its interpretation potentials applicable to other social phenomena or text. Reviewing past studies on motivations of collecting, this paper finds that though many motivations have been discerned, many of them overlap with one another and confuse with one another in terms of causes and effects. The need of an united framework to map motivations of different priorities is thus considered more important than to conducting similar empirical studies. This paper thus tries to employ the fetishism theory from psychoanalysis to interpret the motivations of collecting that has been discerned by previous studies, and to apply such interpretation to discuss Patrick Süskind’s novel Perfume: The Story of a Murderer as a tentative development of museological perspective as a way of understanding. This paper first begins with the introduction to Freud’s classic theory of fetishism, which is then complemented by Lacan’s linguistic extension. And then it reviews related bibliography of collecting, which included previous studies on motivations of collecting and contemporary collectors’ behavior patterns and characteristics, and concludes the concept of self and the transformation of meanings as two crucial elements among all motivations. The mechanism of fetishism is then utilized to interpret these two major elements and other secondary motivations. After this interpretation, the fetishistic collecting theory is further employed to interpret the Perfume, in which the protagonist Grenouille’s puzzling, fanatic, and even cruel behavior can be viewed as an extreme example of collecting, and understood from the perspective of various collecting motivations, especially that of fetishistic collecting. This paper concludes that the theory of fetishism can unite most of the collecting motivations which are related with the concept of self and the transformation of meanings. In the practice of employing fetishistic collecting theory to interpret Perfume, this paper also recognizes the theorizing potential of museological perspective which is based on collecting. However, this paper has excluded social and cultural influences on the motivations of personal collecting, based on which further studies can explore the relationships between the motivations of personal collecting and the constructing process of individual museums.

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48

Carneiro, Ana Clara Soares. "Performance do perfume : modelagem e simulação da evaporação/difusão". Master's thesis, 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/10216/65612.

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Carneiro, Ana Clara Soares. "Performance do perfume : modelagem e simulação da evaporação/difusão". Dissertação, 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/10216/65612.

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劉淑娟. "Perfume of Wind－Visual Narrative of Poetic Picture Book". Thesis, 2009. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/nuudsp.

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碩士
國立臺灣師範大學
美術學系
97
ABSTRACT Main readers of the picture books are children in the origin. In recent years, thepicture books drawn for adult readers appear more and more. Intelligence and thinking of adults are much deeper than children so the development of picture book's depth is of great urgency. The poetry is a creation full of imagination. This thesis is going to investigate the opportunity applying "poetic" style in adult picture books. Also, this method can be used in self works. The subjects of this thesis are the research and analysis of "picture books" and"poetic." The early stage of the research is clear understanding about the definition, the skill and the main element of picture books. After that, the technique of visual narrative is analyzed. The application of "poetic" in the literature is discussed in the last part. In chapter three, this thesis investigates the painting that are "poetic" and analyzes the technique of expression of the "poetic" pictures by K.J. method. According to the study,four types of "poetic" pictures are presented: 1. Representation of fantastic dream 2. Collage style of Montage 3. Space of "Reality" and "Emptiness" 4. Imagination full of Children's Fun According to the result of above study, the author draws a picture book for adult readers, "Perfume of Wind." In the process of creation, the author experiences the design of the story, the painting of sketches and the coloring of the pictures until the book is finished. By this experimental creation, the conclusion of applying "poetic" style in picture books is proposed. Also, the idea of author's investigation and creation and future research directions are mentioned.

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