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Tesi sul tema "Beach"

Autore: Grafiati

Pubblicato: 4 giugno 2021

Ultima modifica: 25 luglio 2025

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1

Howell-Fellows, Scott E. "Phonological mediation of semantics in visual word recognition, when a beach is a beach or a beach is a beech." Thesis, National Library of Canada = Bibliothèque nationale du Canada, 1999. http://www.collectionscanada.ca/obj/s4/f2/dsk1/tape10/PQDD_0021/MQ48014.pdf.

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2

Dyer, M. J. "Beach profile change at St. Clair beach, Dunedin." Thesis, University of Canterbury. Geography, 1994. http://hdl.handle.net/10092/7969.

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This thesis examines the nature of changes that occur within the beach profile at St. Clair Dunedin on the south coast of the Otago Peninsula. The profile changes are linked to variations in the wave and wind environments, and the results are compared to both previous local work and to the relevant theory and models accepted in the literature. Erosion at St. Clair occurs during extended periods of strong southwest winds which are associated with increased wave heights, decreased periods and enhanced longshore currents. Under these conditions sand is transported both offshore and alongshore to

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3

Livingston, Kimberly S. "Sand Beach." Virtual Press, 1997. http://liblink.bsu.edu/uhtbin/catkey/1041889.

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This project consisted of a series of short stories which worked together creating a larger fictional piece in the form of a non-continuous narrative. This non-continuous narrative is in the tradition of Sherwood Anderson's Winesburg, Ohio, and Louise Erdrich's Love Medicine. The stories in this type of fiction are connected by similar themes and settings, allowing the reader to participate directly in the creative process. The reader helps create the fiction by drawing his or her own conclusions about the characters and places from between the individual stories. By involving the reader more

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4

Breit, Marcus. "Beach transportation." Thesis, California State University, Long Beach, 2016. http://pqdtopen.proquest.com/#viewpdf?dispub=10111187.

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<p> Transportation is a problem that is constantly evolving but there are few places in the world that have the transportation problems of Southern California. Although there is a lot of competition for transportation the market for disabled accessible private transportation has a lot of room for growth in Southern California. This business plan purposes the creation of a private transportation service, Beach Transportation, in Southern Orange County which assists the elderly and handicap. The goal of our business will be to provide the highest quality transportation to those who require disab

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5

Huang, Weizhong, and Weizhong Huang. "Turtle Beach." ScholarWorks@UNO, 2014. http://scholarworks.uno.edu/td/1811.

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This paper thoroughly examines the production of the thesis film, Turtle Beach. Each area of the film’s production is carefully dissected, including the writing, production design, cinematography, directing, editing, sound, technology, workflow and visual effect. Specific attention has been paid to writing and cinematography, and how they affect editing.

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6

Manning, Bella A. "Rainbow beach." Master's thesis, University of Cape Town, 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/11427/11600.

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Rainbow Beach is the story of a family that escapes to a faraway place to forget the past and the past that follows them there. It is the story of a landscape, at times serene, at times explosive, that mirrors them and that they come to adore and yet resist. And it is the story of a father struggling under the weight of his memories and the daughter who loves him fiercely and senses the coming collapse and whose own memories take root in a part of the soul too deep to be erased.

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7

Mostafa, Dona E. "Seagull beach." Scholarly Commons, 1996. https://scholarlycommons.pacific.edu/uop_etds/2295.

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Seagull Beach is a creative work about a woman who moves to a seaside town. While there, she is befriended by an artist and volunteers at the aquarium. The woman, Shell, becomes involved in a mystery involving drug smuggling and murder. Shell and her friend, Linda, solve the mystery through a series of unexpected events. Chapter one establishes Shell in Seagull Beach and introduces Linda. The plot begins with a mutilated dolphin on the beach and the appearance of a bald-headed man. Chapter two takes the reader into the aquarium and expands the cast of characters. The plot is further developed

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8

Montgomery, Marilyn Christina. "Beach nourishment at Pensacola Beach, Florida assessment of public perception /." [Pensacola, Fla.] : University of West Florida, 2007. http://purl.fcla.edu/fcla/etd/WFE0000011.

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9

MacBean, Anna Ruth. "Apparent Preferences of Beach Users at Virginia Beach Resort Zone." Thesis, Virginia Tech, 2013. http://hdl.handle.net/10919/19299.

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After compiling an appropriate list of beach criteria from established award programs and experts, the research landscape architect observed the Virginia Beach Resort Zone for areas of intense beach user activity. The resulting analysis of these "hot-spots" indicated that urban resort beach users visiting the recreational beach during high-use times tended to gravitate toward locations on the resort beach which were close to three needs: public parking, public restrooms, and inexpensive refreshments. This pattern shows the apparent preferences of many beach users for certain amenities.<br>M

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10

Richter, Daniel. "Åhus Beach hemsida." Thesis, Mittuniversitetet, Avdelningen för informationssystem och -teknologi, 2018. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:miun:diva-34244.

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Detta projekt handlar om att skapa en ny hemsida till Åhus Beach. Huvudmålen är att den ska vara fullt responsiv och fullt ut dynamisk. För att göra hemsidan dynamisk har vi använt oss av wordpress som CMS-verktyg. För att kunna utnyttja wordpress till dess fulla potential har vi använt oss av ett plugin som heter Advanced Custom Fields Pro. Nästan allting på hemsidan så som texter, bilder, färger, knappar och även sidor är möjliga att ändra på via wordpress. Miljön som använts är en wordpress boilerplate som kallas Bedrock tillsammans med ett starttema som kallas Sage och allting har kodats i

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11

Morgan, Robert. "Beach user opinions and the development of a beach quality rating scale." Thesis, University of South Wales, 1996. https://pure.southwales.ac.uk/en/studentthesis/beach-user-opinions-and-the-development-of-a-beach-quality-rating-scale(cc50a678-e1d9-4fc9-ac7b-dda6e37b1925).html.

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As a pilot study into questionnaire investigation of beach user opinions and perceptions, a survey was conducted of users of four beaches (Southerndown, Nash, Ogmore and Llantwit), at the Glamorgan Heritage Coast, Wales. Beach perceptions were assessed in terms of socio-demographics, psychological parameters (Eysenck Personality Questionnaire and Spielberger State-Trait Anxiety Inventory) and related to the existing beach environment. Few changes to general facility provision could be recommended, but a number of management recommendations were made. Beach user gender, socio-economic status, p

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12

Fitton, Timothy, and tfitton@hotmail com. "Tailings beach slope prediction." RMIT University. Civil, Environmental and Chemical Engineering, 2007. http://adt.lib.rmit.edu.au/adt/public/adt-VIT20080212.120813.

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Tailings (mining waste) disposal is a significant consideration for the mining industry, with the majority of the ore processed in most mining operations ending up as tailings. This creates large volumes of tailings, which must be handled and stored responsibly to avoid potential environmental catastrophes. The most common form of tailings storage facility is the impoundment, where tailings are contained within a basin, with beaches forming around the perimeter of the impoundment and a pond standing in the middle. A relatively new method of tailings storage is to create a 'stack', whereby t

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13

Kakkireni, Nithin Kumar. "Beach Museum Web Application." Kansas State University, 2018. http://hdl.handle.net/2097/38797.

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Master of Science<br>Department of Computer Science<br>Daniel Andresen<br>This project involves in developing a responsive web application for Beach Museum at Manhattan, Kansas. Application is built on development boxes using Amazon web services. Project is built on MVC architecture that helps user to search images, create their own collection from the images and include an admin module. Migrating the current existing SQL database to couchDB for better performance of the available data. Integrated Apache Lucene to support text search in the couch database writing different indexes to retrieve

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14

Wilson, Joshua Morgan. "A Galveston Beach House." Thesis, Virginia Tech, 2014. http://hdl.handle.net/10919/49024.

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this house began as a desire to place a single floating mass on the horizon, but became an exploration of proportion, material, and volume, and how they relate to each other.<br>Master of Architecture

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15

Hall, William (William Francis). "Subaerial beach profile behaviour." Thesis, The University of Sydney, 1988. http://hdl.handle.net/2123/1196.

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16

Goldman, Ryan A. "Small Mammal Survey of John U. Lloyd Beach State Park, Dania Beach, Florida." NSUWorks, 2013. http://nsuworks.nova.edu/occ_stuetd/166.

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Urban development and human encroachment on the natural habitats along the coastline of Florida combined with invasive exotic pressures have resulted in the fragmentation and degradation of habitat quality within Broward County. Native habitats have been significantly altered and fragmented to a fraction their previous size. With loss of habitat area and quality, isolation of breeding populations and anthropogenic pressures, it is important to determine species composition and habitat utilization in order to conserve the remaining biological diversity. It was the intent of this study to determ

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17

Olsen, Michael James. "Methodology for assessing coastal change using terrestrial laser scanning." Diss., [La Jolla] : University of California, San Diego, 2009. http://nsgl.gso.uri.edu/casg/casgy09005.pdf.

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Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of California, San Diego, 2009.<br>Title from first page of PDF file (viewed July 14, 2009). Available via ProQuest Digital Dissertations. Vita. Includes bibliographical references (p. 258-267).

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18

Fallon, Kathleen Michelle. "Rip Current Formation and Beach Safety Implications for Several U.S. Atlantic Coast Beach Areas." FIU Digital Commons, 2017. http://digitalcommons.fiu.edu/etd/3382.

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This dissertation combines seemingly different studies, which work together to describe the physical characteristics of rip current development and associated social implications at several locations. These fast-moving, concentrated flows of water travel offshore and can be found on any beach with sufficient wave action. Any event of increased wave steepness will erode a large quantity of sediment from the beach. The material deposited offshore eventually makes its way back; during this process, ocean water becomes trapped behind a shore-attached bar resulting in a ridge-and-runnel. These form

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19

Mattila, Mark Ronald. "Beach profiles and sediment activity." Thesis, University of British Columbia, 1988. http://hdl.handle.net/2429/28503.

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A study of beach profiles and sediment activity has been undertaken investigating natural beaches of inner coastal southwest British Columbia and published data on laboratory beaches. Two separate types of sediment activity are focused upon: longshore sediment, activity occurring on inner coast beaches and on- offshore sediment activity occurring on wave Hume constrained laboratory beaches. Field investigative work on twenty-five natural beaches has included review of past-field studies, profile surveys, sediment tracing experiments, investigation of surface and subsurface sediment, size dist

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20

Dabees, Mohamed A. "Efficient modeling of beach evolution." Thesis, National Library of Canada = Bibliothèque nationale du Canada, 2000. http://www.collectionscanada.ca/obj/s4/f2/dsk1/tape3/PQDD_0021/NQ54406.pdf.

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21

Axe, Philip George. "Beach development behind detached breakwaters." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 2000. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/2650.

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Concurrent wave and morphology data were collected arow1d a coastal protection scheme on the U.K. south coast. The scheme consists of eight detached breakwaters protecting a renourished sand and shingle beach, and is situated in a strongly macro-tidal environment. The development of the beach morphology is described. The beach trapped sand and shingle moving eastwards into it, and lost material from the eastern end. While the beach was designed to maintain a shingle beach, it was found that the scheme was most effective at trapping sand, which led to tombolo formation behind the updrift breakw

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22

Dickèr, Jonathan. "Beach Chair Inspired Seating Furniture." Thesis, Tekniska Högskolan, Högskolan i Jönköping, JTH, Industridesign, 2018. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hj:diva-43315.

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23

Norman, Garrett Tyler. "Pismo Beach Public Art Program." DigitalCommons@CalPoly, 2014. https://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/theses/1182.

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Public art plays a significant role in communities around the world. It embodies a close relationship between the artist, the space in which it’s being exhibited, and the public. The development of this project examined various literary sources that demonstrated the importance of public art and how cities, artists, and community members may benefit from the incorporation of public art. This project included the framework for development of a Public Art Program for the City of Pismo Beach, California, which outlined the critical steps of a planning process and implementation of the program.

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24

IANNACCONE, Alice. "PERFORMANCE ANALYSIS OF BEACH HANDBALL." Doctoral thesis, Università degli studi di Cassino, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/11580/84783.

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The aim of this project was the evaluation of performance of beach handball players. Beach handball is considered a high-intensity mixed-metabolism sport where the performance depends on the combination of high-intensity physical patterns at player and team level. The player performances depend on specific movements involving speed and power, rapid accelerations and decelerations, and changes of directions, whereas the overall team performance depends on technical and tactical team performance indicators, such as passing, catching, throwing, and blocking during offensive and defensive situati

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25

Miller, Gregory Chad. "Observations of the formation and maintenance of beach cusps on Del Monte Beach in Monterey, California." Thesis, Springfield, Va. : Available from National Technical Information Service, 2001. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA403566.

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26

Donovan-Boyd, Adrienne K. "Historic Preservation of Pacific Northwest Beach Houses: A Study of Beach Houses along Tillamook County's Coast." Thesis, University of Oregon, 2009. http://hdl.handle.net/1794/9918.

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xiii, 207 p. : ill. (some col.), maps. A print copy of this thesis is available through the UO Libraries. Search the library catalog for the location and call number.<br>Preserving Pacific Northwest historic beach houses in coastal communities can often be a daunting task due to the complexities that arise when combining preservation, planning, development, and climatic hardships. Using Tillamook County's coastline as the study area, this thesis explores the historical development of Tillamook County's structures and the current barriers that exist when trying to preserve them. Historic

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27

Fernàndez, Mora Mª Àngels. "On cross-shore beach profile morphodynamics." Doctoral thesis, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, 2015. http://hdl.handle.net/10803/347967.

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The nearshore zone is plenty of 3D morphodynamic patterns resulting from the interaction of waves, currents and sediments. The dynamics of formation and evolution of these patterns is at present a controversial point in coastal research. However, frequently nearshore zone shows a strongly persistent uniformity. In this situation, morphodynamic changes are dominated just by crossshore processes. Remarkably, although this situation displays much less morphological complexity, cross-shore beach profile morphodynamics is still a research challenge, as sediment transport, in this case, is the resul

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28

Garcez, Faria Antonio Fernando. "Nearshore currents over a barred beach." Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 1997. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA333400.

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Dissertation (Ph.D. in Physical Oceanography) Naval Postgraduate School, June 1997.<br>Dissertation supervisor, Edward B. Thornton. Includes bibliographical references (p. 149-152). Also available online.

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29

Hung, Yu-Hsien Judy. "The Violin Sonata of Amy Beach /." [Baton Rouge, La. : Louisiana State University, 2005. http://etd.lsu.edu/docs/available/etd-04142005-224115/.

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30

Eversole, Dolan. "Large-Scale Beach Change: Kaanapali, Hawai'i." Thesis, University of Hawaii at Manoa, 2002. http://hdl.handle.net/10125/6946.

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Using monthly beach profile surveys and historical aerial photographs, the seasonal and long-term (48 year) beach morphology for Kaanapali Beach, Maui is described. By identifying the shoreline position in historical aerial photographs it is determined that the Kaanapali area is subject to long periods of mild erosion and accretion punctuated by severe erosional events related to short-period Kona storms and hurricane waves. Increased Central Pacific tropical cyclone activity of the late 1950's and early 1960's and Hurricane Iniki in 1992 are identified as contributing factors to the observed

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31

Sriariyawat, Anurak. "Formation and evolution of beach cusps." Thesis, University of Nottingham, 2010. http://eprints.nottingham.ac.uk/14541/.

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Beach cusps are swash zone morphological patterns that have been of interest to many scientists and engineers. This study aims to improve understanding of the formation and long-term evolution of beach cusps by numerical simulation using a 2D process-based morphodynamic model, solving the coupled NLSW equations and sediment conservation equation simultaneously. A numerical implementation is applied building on the model of Dodd et al. (2008), which succeeds in simulating the occurrence of beach cusps. The numerical scheme improves the accuracy and stability of the swash zone computation. Resul

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32

Jamal, Mohamad Hidayat. "Modelling coarse-grained beach profile evolution." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 2011. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/545.

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Coarse-grained beaches are particularly prevalent in the UK, composed of accumulations of either gravel, or mixed sand and gravel sediments. The aim of the work presented in this thesis is to improve capabilities for predicting coarse-grained beach 2D profile development. In particular, the effects of infiltration and sediment sorting are considered. In this study, the public domain numerical model, XBeach (v12) is developed further. This model was initially developed for studying sandy environments especially for the case of dune erosion. Here, the model is modified to enhance its capability

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33

Faria, Garcez, and Antonio Fernando. "Nearshore currents over a barred beach." Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1997. http://hdl.handle.net/10945/8729.

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Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.<br>The objective of this dissertation is to develop numerical models and compare their predictions with data acquired during the DUCK94 experiment in order to improve our physical understanding of the hydrodynamic processes governing the vertical and cross shore distributions of both longshore and cross shore currents over a barred beach. The vertical structure of the mean longshore current is found to be well described by a logarithmic profile and a relationship between bed shear stress and bottom roughness, including the influence of ri

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34

Yau, Yick-yee Joyce, and 丘奕怡. "Bacterial indicators for beach water quality." Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 1999. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B31254445.

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35

Walmsley, Clive Andrew. "The ecology of shingle-beach vegetation." Thesis, University of East Anglia, 1995. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.525009.

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The establishment of six shingle-beaches species( Crambem aritima (sea-kale),E ryngium maritimum (sea-holly), Glauciumflavum (yellow homed-poppy), Honckenya peploides (sea sandwort), Lathyrusjaponicus (sea pea) and Rumex crispus (curled dock)) was investigated to mitigate the disturbance caused by the construction of a power station at Sizewell, Suffolk, UK. The potential for creating vegetation from container-grown plants, sown seed or the soil seed bank was examined. Shingle-beach vegetation comprising these species was successfully established using container-grown plants, whereas seeding s

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36

Borges, Joao Carlos Viana. "Wave climate and shingle beach response." Thesis, University of Brighton, 1993. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.359293.

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Johnson, Elizabeth Alice. "Probabilistic analysis of shingle beach management." Thesis, University of Bristol, 2005. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.422561.

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38

Samuel, Dana-Nicole. "Venice Beach, CA - A Visionary Design." Digital Commons at Loyola Marymount University and Loyola Law School, 2013. https://digitalcommons.lmu.edu/etd/439.

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Venice Beach, CA is a vibrant city with a very interesting history. The way the city sits today is much different than the way Mr. Kinney designed it in the early 1900s. Venice Beach was originally supposed to be a Venice similar to the Italian city in California. The original city had canals, a miniature railroad and eventually amusement attractions. The purpose of re-designing Venice Beach was to bring historical value back to the city that it has lost over the years, as well as create more community centered areas and efficiency for tourists. After analyzing both visual and quantitative dat

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39

Popritkin, Michael Lee. "Climate responsive housing for Miami Beach." Thesis, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, 1995. http://hdl.handle.net/10919/53408.

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The objective of my thesis is to study climate-responsive elements for housing. The word elements refers to the components of the building envelope. The term climate-responsive describes any building that reacts to local climate and also respects the physical environment. The hope is to arrive and establish a new set of elements that can transcend future housing developments, specifically in the Miami Beach area.<br>Master of Architecture

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40

Laudier, Natalie A. "Wave overtopping of a barrier beach." Thesis, Monterey, California : Naval Postgraduate School, 2009. http://edocs.nps.edu/npspubs/scholarly/theses/2009/Sep/09Sep%5FLaudier.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Meteorology and Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, September 2009.<br>Thesis Advisor(s): MacMahan, Jamie. "September 2009." Description based on title screen as viewed on 5 November 2009. Author(s) subject terms: Overtopping, run-up, barrier, natural beach, Carmel River Beach Includes bibliographical references (p. 41-44). Also available in print.

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41

Yau, Yick-yee Joyce. "Bacterial indicators for beach water quality /." Hong Kong : University of Hong Kong, 1999. http://sunzi.lib.hku.hk/hkuto/record.jsp?B21301554.

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42

Lorscheider, Matthew Kilpinen. "Reinventing Long Beach| The fight for space and place in post -Cold War Long Beach, 1990-1999." California State University, Long Beach, 2013.

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43

Neal, John W. "The vision puzzle : clarifying God's redemptive plan for the Edisto Beach Baptist Church." Theological Research Exchange Network (TREN) Access this title online Theological Research Exchange Network (TREN), 2004. http://www.tren.com.

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44

Williams, Peta. "Beach Use & Carrying Capacity on the Gold Coast." Thesis, Griffith University, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/10072/367761.

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Over the years many studies have been completed on the carrying capacity of specific recreational activities. These studies generally focus on the factors and interactions that are limiting the growth of an area and what barriers need to be removed to allow for this growth. This study looks specifically at the perception of carrying capacity of Gold Coast beaches and the way in which they are used by tourists and locals. For the purpose of this study the definition of Beach Carrying Capacity is the perceived number of people that can fit comfortably on a beach, including the surf zone, before

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45

Wong, Ho-chuen. "Analysis and prediction of beach water quality in Hong Kong with special reference to Big Wave Bay Beach /." Click to view the E-thesis via HKUTO, 2009. http://sunzi.lib.hku.hk/hkuto/record/B43278619.

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46

Marková, Kristýna. "Marketingový plán beachvolejbalových areálů v České republice." Master's thesis, Vysoká škola ekonomická v Praze, 2012. http://www.nusl.cz/ntk/nusl-197438.

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The popularity of beach volleyball is rising especially thanks to the Olympic Games 2012 in London. Czech professionals Markéta Sluková with her partner Kristýna Sluková got there unbelievable 5th place. The first part of this thesis would like to summarize theoretical knowledge of sport marketing and marketing plan of sport product. The second part would like to analyze marketing mix of beach volleyball arenas in the Czech Republic. According to the knowledge gained by this analysis will be created Marketing Plan of Beach Volleyball Arena in Benešov u Prahy. Finally this thesis would like to

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47

Baykal, Cuneyt. "Two-dimensional Depth-averaged Beach Evolution Modelling." Phd thesis, METU, 2012. http://etd.lib.metu.edu.tr/upload/12614148/index.pdf.

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In this study, a two-dimensional depth-averaged beach evolution numerical model is developed to study the medium and long term nearshore sea bottom evolution due to non-cohesive sediment transport under the action of wind waves only over the arbitrary land and sea topographies around existing coastal structures and formations. The developed beach evolution numerical model is composed of four sub-models: a nearshore spectral wave transformation model based on energy balance equation including random wave breaking and diffraction terms to compute the nearshore wave characteristics, a nearshore w

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48

Kelly, David M. "Bore-driven swash on a mobile beach." Thesis, University of Nottingham, 2009. http://eprints.nottingham.ac.uk/13675/.

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The problem of cross-shore beach face evolution in the swash zone is examined within the framework of the shallow water theory. A system comprising the shallow water and Exner equations is solved numerically using both uncoupled and fully coupled approaches. The uncoupled model assumes that changes in bed height have a negligible effect on the flow over a swash event, whereas the fully coupled model updates the hydrodynamic variables and beach profile simultaneously. In order to obtain accurate results over a single swash event several new numerical solvers based on the method of characteristi

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Schönfeldt, Hans-Jürgen. "Reinforcement of edge waves by beach cusps." Universität Leipzig, 2010. https://ul.qucosa.de/id/qucosa%3A16375.

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Beach cusps, formed during a storm are observed. The storm acted for three hours together with high water conditions. These beach cusps exhibited a quasiuniform wavelength of 8 m. The measured topography after the storm, the calculated drift velocity of the incident wave and the synchronous edge wave are similar in scale and shape. The over one wavelength measured grain size is also correlated to the topography. A nonlinear hydro-numerical model is used to investigate the reaction of edge waves on alongshore change in bottom topography. Edge waves are greatly amplified over beach cusps. The re

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50

Strauss, Darrell Richard. "Morphological Modelling of Intermediate Beach State Transitions." Thesis, Griffith University, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/10072/367253.

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Temporal and spatial changes in nearshore bathymetry result from sediment transport interactions with the hydrodynamic processes and provide a highly variable and rapidly changing environment. Rip currents are one example of a morphody- namic system presenting a significant hazard to swimmers unfamiliar with their behaviour. Rip currents pose a particular threat as they can develop suddenly and quickly transport water offshore. The widely accepted beach state model of Wright & Short (1984) uses param- eters which are functions of breaking wave height, wave period and sediment (Dean 1973, Gourl

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