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Dissertationen zum Thema „Beaches“

Autor: Grafiati

Veröffentlicht am 4. Juni 2021

Zuletzt aktualisiert am 25. Juli 2025

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1

Quinn, Paul Anthony. "Breaking waves on beaches." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 1995. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/12822.

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A comprehensive experimental study has been carried out to measure the velocity field of waves breaking on two types of beach. The measurement technique of Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) has been used throughout to measure the full-field, instantaneous velocity distributions. This technique is described in some detail with particular attention paid to the errors inherent when using PIV in this application. The first type of beach studied has a mild slope, typical of sandy beaches. PIV measurements have been carried out on 1:30 and 1:100 plane sloping beaches with monochromatic waves. The mea

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2

Acuna, Adrian Pedrozo. "Concerning swash on steep beaches." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 2005. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/1672.

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This investigation focuses on the prediction of sediment transport and beach evolution in coarse-grained beaches. This includes observed morphological changes on both gravel and mixed beaches from experimental investigations at the Large Wave Flume (GWK) in Hanover. Germany. The recorded measurements show that the majority of morphology change took place adjacent to the zone of wave-breaking, close to the shoreline in both cases. Based on these observations, the discussions are carried out with psirticular regard to the observed tendency for onshore transport axid profile steepening in the swa

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3

Trim, Louise. "Physical modelling of shingle beaches." Thesis, University of Brighton, 2003. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.399044.

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4

Heinze, Heather W. "Anthropogenic Influences and Meteorological Effects: How They are Changing the Sand Beaches in Southern Maine." Fogler Library, University of Maine, 2001. http://www.library.umaine.edu/theses/pdf/HeinzeHW2001.pdf.

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5

Coutts-Smith, Aaron J. "The significance of mega-rips along an embayed coast." Phd thesis, School of Geosciences, 2004. http://hdl.handle.net/2123/6082.

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6

Finlayson, David P. "The geomorphology of Puget Sound beaches /." Thesis, Connect to this title online; UW restricted, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/1773/11035.

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7

Brown, Jenna A. "Cross-shore exchange on natural beaches." Thesis, Monterey, California: Naval Postgraduate School, 2014. http://hdl.handle.net/10945/43882.

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Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited<br>The cross-shore exchange of material is examined on beaches of varying morphology and hydrodynamics. On a dissipative, rip-channeled beach in Monterey, California, field measurements of the rip current vertical structure reveal depth-uniform flows inside the surf zone, and surface-dominated flows with rotation over depth outside the surf zone. Aperiodic, very low frequency pulsations in the near-surface velocity were found to control the mean rip current flow. Observations of Lagrangian surface drifters released on the inner shelf resul

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8

Brown, Susan Jayne 1967. "Longshore currents on seawall-protected beaches." Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1996. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/39079.

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9

Stefanova, Stela K. "Measuring the recreational value of changes in beach access, beach width, and vehicle access in the Mid-Atlantic region application of random utility models /." Access to citation, abstract and download form provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company; downloadable PDF file, 192 p, 2009. http://proquest.umi.com/pqdweb?did=1892027481&sid=6&Fmt=2&clientId=8331&RQT=309&VName=PQD.

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10

Gardner, Nathan. "Formation and Age of Raised Marine Beaches, Northern Scott Coast, Antarctica." Fogler Library, University of Maine, 2002. http://www.library.umaine.edu/theses/pdf/GardnerN2002.pdf.

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11

Dreyer, Nicolaas Burger. "Within- and between-beach variation in intertidal macrofaunal communities inhabiting two Transkei sandy beaches." Thesis, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University, 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/10948/1070.

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Until recently most sandy beach studies have made use of snapshot samples but the validity of this approach has been widely questioned. In this study we attempt to resolve this issue by repeatedly sampling two beaches using a stratified random design. Three sampling sessions took place, each approximately six months apart. The three sites on the first beach were selected according to the type of beach (reflective, intermediate and dissipative) with each morphological type duplicated on the second beach. Many of the physical variables measured had significant differences between the sampling se

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12

Check, Lindsay A. (Lindsay Anne). "Analysis of Longshore Sediment Transport on Beaches." Thesis, Georgia Institute of Technology, 2004. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/4886.

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The present study investigates longshore sediment transport for a variety of bathymetric and wave conditions using the National Oceanic Partnership Program (NOPP) NearCoM Model. The model is used to determine the effects of wave shape and bathymetry changes on the resulting longshore sediment transport. The wave drivers, REF/DIF 1 and REF/DIF S, are used to assess the effects of monochromatic and spectral waves on longshore sediment transport, respectively. SHORECIRC is used as the circulation module and four different sediment transport models are used. Longshore transport comparisons are

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13

Poate, Timothy George. "Morphological response of high-energy macrotidal beaches." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/1094.

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Spatial data collected over 3 years is presented to assess the extent of morphological variability under seasonal and storm waves at four high-energy macrotidal beaches. A novel approach is adopted to identify and classify the beach response which is used to assess the relative stability of the system to changes in the dominant forcing conditions. Field measurements and modelling simulations using XBeach provide further support for a storm dominated system exhibiting relative stability. Morphologically the beaches range from dissipative to intermediate and are characterised by low tide bar/rip

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14

Evans, Darren. "Swash on steep and gently-sloping beaches." Thesis, Loughborough University, 2004. https://dspace.lboro.ac.uk/2134/12664.

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In the last twenty years, the importance of sediment transport in the swash zone has been established. The disproportionately high sediment transport rates in this region make its inclusion in general nearshore models vital. As part of this U.K. Natural Environmental Research Council project (grant number: NERlA/S/1999/00144), high frequency (8 Hz) measurements were made of the water depth and vertical variations in suspended sediment concentration and water velocity, using state-of-the-art instrumentation. Further measurements included nearshore and offshore wave conditions, tidal elevations,

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15

Smith, Albert William S. "The function and behaviour of natural beaches." Thesis, Queensland University of Technology, 1986. https://eprints.qut.edu.au/36454/1/36454_Smith_1986_Vol-1.pdf.

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This study may well be considered to represent a rather simplistic contribution, towards the science of coastal engineering. This is in fact, perhaps as it should be, because the mathematics involved, are of the most basic kind, and no profound theories have been expounded. This work has nothing to do with the development of existing theories or existing dogma, within the current realms of the particular discipline. That must remain for others. This writer is not a scientist within any stretch of the classification, he remains a simple engineer, who has spent most of his life, in the

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16

Taylor, Amy Margaret. "Spatiotemporal morphodynamics of a recently modified beach system, Aberdeen, UK." Thesis, University of Aberdeen, 2015. http://digitool.abdn.ac.uk:80/webclient/DeliveryManager?pid=225799.

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The prediction of morphological responses of natural and engineered beaches to the prevailing wave, tide and wind conditions continues to be a challenge due to the wide variability in site conditions and the underlying complexities of the processes involved. For this reason, field measurements, especially with a good spatial and temporal resolution, play a critical role in monitoring the performance of intervention work. This thesis presents the results of a five-year study at Aberdeen beach on the North Sea coast of the UK, with the aim of obtaining and analysing high-quality field measuremen

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17

Miller, Gregory Chad. "Observations of the formation and maintenance of beach cusps on Del Monte Beach in Monterey, California." Thesis, Springfield, Va. : Available from National Technical Information Service, 2001. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA403566.

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18

Lam, Chi-chung. "Monitoring of beach water quality in Hong Kong /." Hong Kong : University of Hong Kong, 1999. http://sunzi.lib.hku.hk/hkuto/record.jsp?B21301761.

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19

Figlus, Jens. "Seasonal and yearly profile changes of Delaware beaches." Access to citation, abstract and download form provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company; downloadable PDF file, 198 p, 2007. http://proquest.umi.com/pqdlink?did=1253510781&Fmt=7&clientId=79356&RQT=309&VName=PQD.

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20

Miles, Jonathon Rupert. "Enhanced sediment transport near seawalls and reflective beaches." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 1997. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/1901.

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This thesis describes results of a field experiment to examine the effect of wave reflection on suspended sediment transport in front of a seawall. Two instrument rigs were set up on the beach at Teignmouth, South Devon, U.K., in June 1995. One rig (the seawall rig) was attached to a protruding section of seawall, positioning the instruments 1.2m seaward of the wall. The other rig (the beach rig) acted as a control and was positioned 135m downcoast where the seawall is set back so that conditions were those of a natural beach. At each rig high frequency measurements of wave elevation, current

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21

Gemmell, Sally L. G. "Sediment transfer from gravel bed rivers to beaches." Thesis, University of Glasgow, 2000. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.274782.

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22

Mitchell, S. S. "The valuation of beaches as urban open space." Master's thesis, University of Cape Town, 2001. http://hdl.handle.net/11427/4784.

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Bibliography: leaves 23-24.<br>The beach is a unique open space in the urban context. It is a dynamic aggressive environment that has in the past been ignored as an open space that has special qualities. While it has been seen purely as a recreational facility, ecosystem services and intrinsic values have been ignored. In Cape Town planning guidelines now set store on the value of open space, however the fear is that there may be insufficient emphasis on the beach as an urban edge and an open space element. While ecosystem service can and have been calculated intrinsic values present some diff

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23

Yates, Marissa L. "Seasonal sand level changes on southern california beaches." Diss., Connect to a 24 p. preview or request complete full text in PDF format. Access restricted to UC campuses, 2009. http://wwwlib.umi.com/cr/ucsd/fullcit?p3342173.

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Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of California, San Diego, 2009.<br>Title from first page of PDF file (viewed February 13, 2009). Available via ProQuest Digital Dissertations. Vita. Includes bibliographical references (p. 124-133).

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24

楊凱恩 and Hoi-yan Esther Yeung. "Beach erosion and recovery on the beaches of southeast Hong Kong Island, Hong Kong SAR, China." Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 2009. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B42904559.

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25

Yeung, Hoi-yan Esther. "Beach erosion and recovery on the beaches of southeast Hong Kong Island, Hong Kong SAR, China." Click to view the E-thesis via HKUTO, 2009. http://sunzi.lib.hku.hk/hkuto/record/B42904559.

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26

Chenault, Carla D. "Understanding long-term beach width change in the Oceanside littoral cell, California." Diss., Digital Dissertations Database. Restricted to UC campuses, 2007. http://uclibs.org/PID/11984.

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27

Hawkins, Magdalena Johanna, and Lorenz Hauser. "An evaluation of the morphological and genetic diversity of Eurydice occurring on South African sandy beaches." Thesis, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/10948/6708.

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This study evaluated the diversity of the genus Eurydice on sandy beaches in South Africa by analysis of morphological as well as genetic data. Type specimens of the three Eurydice species currently known from South Africa, E. longicornis, E. kensleyi and E. barnardi were obtained from the Museum für Naturkunde in Berlin and the Iziko Museum in Cape Town, South Africa. These specimens were studied in order to become familiar with their morphology. Eurydice individuals obtained from 30 sites spanning the South African coast, from Port Nolloth on the north-west coast to Bhanga Nek on the north-e

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28

Pierce, Lydia R. "Lake waves and gravel beach variation, Loch Lomond Scotland." Thesis, University of Glasgow, 1997. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.325392.

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29

Zoulas, James Gary. "Beach changes in the San Pedro Littoral Cell, Southern California, 1930-2007." Diss., Restricted to subscribing institutions, 2008. http://proquest.umi.com/pqdweb?did=1666392701&sid=28&Fmt=2&clientId=1564&RQT=309&VName=PQD.

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30

McKay, Matthew G. "An analysis of public access to municipal beaches on the Long Island Sound in Connecticut /." View abstract, 2001. http://library.ccsu.edu/ccsu%5Ftheses/showit.php3?id=1657.

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Thesis (M.S.)--Central Connecticut State University, 2001.<br>Thesis advisor: David Truly. " ... in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in Geography." Includes bibliographical references (leaves 144-149). Also available via the World Wide Web.

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31

Wal, Abhilasha. "Sedimentological effects of aeolian processes active in the Tentsmuir area, Fife, Scotland." Thesis, University of St Andrews, 1993. http://hdl.handle.net/10023/15197.

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Present day coastal accretion at Tentsmuir is manifest in the form of hummocky dune accumulations along the shoreline. The mode and variability of the distribution of surface sediments by the wind and the magnitude of accumulation of wind laid deposits in the Tentsmuir beach-dune complex is a measure of Aeolian activity in the area. In the Tentsmuir area fine to medium grained well sorted beach sands are entrained by high to moderate energy, seasonal, directionally unimodal to bimodal winds of low variability. During the winter season the dominant winds are from the south west (blowing towards

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32

Burton, Mark C. "Directional spreading effects on nonlinear waves shoaling on beaches." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 1995. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA298657.

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33

Yani, Vuyolwethu Veronica. "Ecosystem health of the Nelson Mandela Bay sandy beaches." Thesis, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University, 2009. http://hdl.handle.net/10948/1075.

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An investigation of ecosystem functioning of sandy beaches in the Nelson Mandela Bay Municipality (NMBM) was carried out with the aim of describing their type and pollution status. Water salinity, temperature, pH, beach slope, water inorganic nutrient concentrations, urea, and chlorophyll-a concentration as well as the composition of zooplankton, phytoplankton, meiofauna, benthic microalgae and bacteria were examined at thirteen beaches. The beaches were classified into three types: short beaches; long beaches with surf diatoms; and long beaches that import biomass (without surf diatoms). Of t

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34

Lopez, de San Roman Blanco Belen. "Dynamics of gravel and mixed, sand and gravel, beaches." Thesis, Imperial College London, 2004. http://hdl.handle.net/10044/1/8106.

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35

Ryan, Tracey E. "The Clean Up Rural Beaches program, environmentalism in action?" Thesis, National Library of Canada = Bibliothèque nationale du Canada, 1999. http://www.collectionscanada.ca/obj/s4/f2/dsk2/ftp03/MQ40437.pdf.

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36

Canning, Paul John. "Wave breaking on fixed impermeable and mobile permeable beaches." Thesis, University of Brighton, 2002. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.246822.

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37

Tudor, David T. "Aspects of debris pollution at selected Bristol Channel beaches." Thesis, Bath Spa University, 2001. http://researchspace.bathspa.ac.uk/1445/.

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38

Butt, Tony. "Sediment transport in the swash-zone of natural beaches." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 1999. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/1784.

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Concurrent measurements of velocity, water depth, sub-surface pore-pressure and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) were obtained from the swash-zone o f a macrotidal, dissipaiive (tanP = 0.014), fine to medium grained (dso^ 0.24mm) beach at Perranporth, Cornwall, UK, in low (H^ = 0.8m) to high (Hj « 2.2m) energy conditions. Velocity, pressure and SSC were measured using electromagnetic current meters, pressure transducers and a four-level array of miniature optical backscaner sensors respectively. Results show an infragravity dominated wave field in the swashzone in both high and low energ

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39

Saulter, Andrew Nicholas. "Analysis of infragravity frequency sediment transport on macrotidal beaches." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 2000. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/1751.

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Many cross-shore sediment transport models use simple treatments of infragravity frequency (0.005- 0.05Hz) processes. For example, infragravity waves have been assumed to provide solely a 'drift velocity' for transport of sediment mobilised by incident frequency waves (0.05-0.5Hz) and be 100% reflected at the shoreline. Furthermore, numerous models calculate broken incident wave heights on the basis of water depth only. This work investigates both the processes underlying infragravity frequency variations in the crossshore velocity field, and the resulting effect of such variations on sediment

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40

Bradbury, Andrew P. "Response of shingle barrier beaches, to extreme hydrodynamic conditions." Thesis, University of Southampton, 1998. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.266585.

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41

Barnes, Timothy. "The generation of low-frequency water waves on beaches." Thesis, University of Bristol, 1996. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.319128.

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42

Curoy, Jérôme. "Morphological and longshore sediment transport processes on mixed beaches." Thesis, University of Sussex, 2012. http://sro.sussex.ac.uk/id/eprint/39655/.

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Mixed beaches, with sediment sizes ranging over three orders of magnitude, are an increasingly important coastal defence on the heavily populated coasts of SE England and N France. Yet longshore transport rates and volumes, important in understanding beach sustainability, remain understudied for such beaches. This thesis addresses the knowledge gap via field investigations of beach profile evolution, active layer measurements and tracer pebble scattering patterns on two macrotidal mixed beaches at Cayeux-sur-Mer (France) and Birling Gap (UK), eastern English Channel. The beach topography data

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43

Bird, Charlotte C. "Nonlinear interactions of water waves, wave groups and beaches." Thesis, University of Bristol, 1999. http://hdl.handle.net/1983/c8fedc4e-9c73-4791-b1d8-b4ff14646025.

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44

Nel, Petronella. "Physical and biological factors structuring sandy beaches macrofauna communities." Doctoral thesis, University of Cape Town, 2000. http://hdl.handle.net/11427/6146.

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Bibliography: leaves 188-199.<br>Previous sandy beach research described beach macrofaunal communities according to the swash exclusion hypothesis (SEH). This hypothesis stated that more species are present on fine grained, flat dissipative beaches due to a more benign swash climate. It suggested that, as beach morphodynamics change to reflective conditions, which is experienced on coarse, steep beaches, few species can survive; these beaches are therefore characterised by lower macrofaunal diversities, abundance and biomass. Furthermore, little proof has been obtained of biological interactio

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45

Lawrence, John. "Cross-shore morphodynamics of coarse grained beaches and beach/structure interaction : numerical modelling and large scale measurements." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 2005. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/1133.

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Coastal defence systems are implemented in many countries for the stability of coastlines and prevention of erosion and flooding. The maintenance of such schemes includes the use of 'soft' engineering techniques, which require accurate predictions of sediment transport and profile change. This thesis describes the development of a numerical model for coarse-grained crossshore transport for use in such schemes. The model combines a hydrodynamic model based on weakly non-linear Boussinesq equations, coupled to a sediment transport module and a morphology change module. Studies have been performe

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46

Atladottir, Audur. "Experimental investigation of wave-induced morphological changes of gravel beaches." Thesis, University of Ottawa (Canada), 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/10393/27665.

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Gravel beaches are widespread around the North-Atlantic Ocean shorelines and can also be found along the coastlines of New Zealand, Russia and the Pacific shore of USA. Over the past decades, researchers in coastal morphodynamics have placed their emphasis on studying sand beaches but gravel material is being used more frequently to nourish eroding sand beaches. The present thesis aims to advance the understanding of the behaviour of gravel beaches under wave attack. A two-dimensional physical model was developed for gravel beach applications. Regular and irregular waves were considered as wel

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47

Single, M. B. "High energy coastal processes on mixed sand and gravel beaches." Thesis, University of Canterbury. Geography, 1992. http://hdl.handle.net/10092/4381.

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The role of high energy events in determining beach morphology on mixed sand and gravel barrier beaches is examined. Analysis of the beach response to high energy events contributes to the understanding of the significance of these events in determining the general and long term function of mixed sand and gravel beach systems. Issues concerned with the contribution of events of differing sizes to the geomorphic character of landforms are an ongoing area of debate in geomorphology. The concepts of magnitude and frequency of events, and thresholds or turning points in the behaviour of geomorphol

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48

Taylor, Gareth Foley. "Management of Sand Beaches for the Protection of Shellfish Resources." Thesis, University of Canterbury. Biological Sciences, 2013. http://hdl.handle.net/10092/8207.

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Exposed sand beaches are increasingly under pressure from human population growth and recreation. Activities, such as vehicle driving and horse riding, can pose a significant threat to specialist fauna living in the sediment. Few studies have evaluated how vehicles affect sand beach fauna and none have examined the impacts of horse users on burrowing bivalves. The research questions addressed were: do vehicles and/or horses on sand beaches impact on intertidal shellfish populations? Following on from this, can management policies mitigate any negative impacts from such activities on sand beach

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49

Van, Wellen Eur Ing Erik. "Modelling of swash zone sediment transport on coarse grained beaches." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 1999. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/1761.

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A review is presented which assesses the importance of the swash zone as a potential contributor to the longshore and cross-shore transport on steep coarse-grained beaches. Based on this review it is apparent that the swash zone on such beaches forms an important contributor to both the longshore and the cross-shore transport. The review also identifies that the swash zone is neglected in all but a few sediment transport models. In addition, a lack of available shingle beach field data against which to validate existing and new transport models is also reported. Two surf zone integrated equati

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50

Blott, Simon James. "Morphological and sedimentological changes on artificially nourished beaches, Lincolnshire, U.K." Thesis, Royal Holloway, University of London, 2001. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.396149.

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