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Статті в журналах з теми "Surface gravity wave"

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Pizzo, Nick E. "Surfing surface gravity waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 823 (June 16, 2017): 316–28. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2017.314.

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A simple criterion for water particles to surf an underlying surface gravity wave is presented. It is found that particles travelling near the phase speed of the wave, in a geometrically confined region on the forward face of the crest, increase in speed. The criterion is derived using the equation of John (Commun. Pure Appl. Maths, vol. 6, 1953, pp. 497–503) for the motion of a zero-stress free surface under the action of gravity. As an example, a breaking water wave is theoretically and numerically examined. Implications for upper-ocean processes, for both shallow- and deep-water waves, are
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2

Robinson, T. O., I. Eames, and R. Simons. "Dense gravity currents moving beneath progressive free-surface water waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 725 (May 23, 2013): 588–610. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2013.112.

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AbstractThe characteristics of dense gravity currents in coastal regions, where free-surface gravity waves are dominant, have yet to be studied in the laboratory. This paper provides a first insight into the dynamics of dense saline gravity currents moving beneath regular progressive free-surface water waves. The gravity currents were generated by releasing a finite volume of saline into a large wave tank with an established periodic wave field. After the initial collapse, the gravity currents propagated horizontally with two fronts, one propagating in the wave direction and the other against
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3

Doering, J. C., and A. J. Bowen. "SHOALING SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES: A BISPECTRAL ANALYSIS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 12. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.12.

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Nonlinearities (wave-wave interactions) play a vital role in many aspects of nearshore dynamics, such as wave shoaling and breaking, wave forces, wave-current interactions, radiation stress effects, and sediment transport. The importance of nonlinearities in the nearshore region cannot be overemphasized. At present, however, there is no wave theory that adequately accounts for these interactions, and field observations are sparse. Herein, the bispectrum is used to investigate the temporal and spatial variation of wave-wave interactions in cross-shore velocity for shoaling surface gravity waves
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4

Mui, R. C. Y., and D. G. Dommermuth. "The Vortical Structure of Parasitic Capillary Waves." Journal of Fluids Engineering 117, no. 3 (1995): 355–61. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/1.2817269.

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A two-dimensional numerical simulation of the parasitic capillary waves that form on a 5 cm gravity-capillary wave is performed. A robust numerical algorithm is developed to simulate flows with complex boundary conditions and topologies. The free-surface boundary layer is resolved at the full-scale Reynolds, Froude, and Weber numbers. Seventeen million grid points are used to resolve the flow to within 6 × 10–4 cm. The numerical method is used to investigate the formation of parasitic capillary waves on the front face of a gravity-capillary wave. The parasitic capillary waves shed vorticity th
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5

Longuet-Higgins, M. S. "Eulerian and Lagrangian aspects of surface waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 173 (December 1986): 683–707. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112086001325.

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Surface waves can be recorded in two kinds of ways, either with a fixed (Eulerian) probe or with a free-floating (Lagrangian) buoy. In steep waves, the differences between corresponding properties can be very marked.By a simple physical model and by accurate calculation it is shown that the Lagrangian wave period may differ from the Eulerian wave period by as much as 38 %. The Lagrangian mean level is also higher than the Eulerian mean, leading to possible discrepancies in remote sensing of the ocean from satellites.Surface accelerations are of interest in relation to the incidence of breaking
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6

Balk, Alexander M. "Surface gravity wave turbulence: three wave interaction?" Physics Letters A 314, no. 1-2 (2003): 68–71. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0375-9601(03)00795-3.

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Kenyon, Kern E. "On Surface Gravity Wave Energies." Natural Science 12, no. 10 (2020): 667–69. http://dx.doi.org/10.4236/ns.2020.1210057.

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Coleman, Timothy A., and Kevin R. Knupp. "Factors Affecting Surface Wind Speeds in Gravity Waves and Wake Lows." Weather and Forecasting 24, no. 6 (2009): 1664–79. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/2009waf2222248.1.

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Abstract Ducted gravity waves and wake lows have been associated with numerous documented cases of “severe” winds (>25 m s−1) and wind damage. These winds are associated with the pressure perturbations and transient mesoscale pressure gradients occurring in many gravity waves and wake lows. However, not all wake lows and gravity waves produce significant winds nor wind damage. In this paper, the factors that affect the surface winds produced by ducted gravity waves and wake lows are reviewed and examined. It is shown theoretically that the factors most conducive to high surface winds in
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Krasitsky, V. P. "Five-wave kinetic equation for surface gravity waves." Physical Oceanography 5, no. 6 (1994): 413–21. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/bf02198507.

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10

Raghukumar, Kaustubha, Lindsay Hogan, Christopher Zappa, Frank Spada, and Grace Chang. "Optical detection of ensonified capillary-gravity waves using polarimetric imaging." Journal of the Acoustical Society of America 153, no. 3_supplement (2023): A64. http://dx.doi.org/10.1121/10.0018177.

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The optical detection of surface capillary-gravity waves induced by underwater sound has many potential applications that range from the detection of sound-generating underwater objects to airborne bathymetric surveys. While multiple lab-based efforts have measured acoustically generated surface capillary-gravity waves, we report on a recent field-based measurement using polarimetric imaging. A controlled acoustic source was placed 10 m below a lake surface and emitted sound in the 500 Hz to 10000Hz frequency range. The lake surface was imaged using a polarimetric camera mounted 7 m above the
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Дисертації з теми "Surface gravity wave"

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Thomas, Alexandra Elizabeth. "The interaction of an internal solitary wave with surface gravity waves." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 2002. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/13106.

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Solitary waves are nonlinear, non-oscillatory disturbances of permanent form. Recent advances in synthetic aperture radar imaging and analysis techniques have confirmed <i>in situ</i> observations and measurements that the passage of oceanic internal waves, and in particular internal solitary waves, is associated with modulations in sea surface roughness. It has not only revealed the ubiquity of this phenomenon but also highlighted the global existence of large amplitude, tidally induced, internal solitary waves. It appears, however, that little laboratory-based research has been carried out i
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Chamberlain, Neil. "Wave-induced mixing within a gravity-driven surface current." Thesis, Imperial College London, 2000. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.325566.

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Howell, David W. "A numerical study of rain-induced surface gravity wave attenuation." Thesis, Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1989. http://hdl.handle.net/10945/27173.

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van, den Bremer T. S. "The induced mean flow of surface, internal and interfacial gravity wave groups." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2014. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:e735afe7-a77d-455d-a560-e869a9941f69.

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Although the leading-order motion of waves is periodic - in other words backwards and forwards - many types of waves including those driven by gravity induce a mean flow as a higher-order effect. It is the induced mean flow of three types of gravity waves that this thesis examines: surface (part I), internal (part II) and interfacial gravity waves (part III). In particular, this thesis examines wave groups. Because they transport energy, momentum and other tracers, wave-induced mean flows have important consequences for climate, environment, air traffic, fisheries, offshore oil and other indus
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Lin, Yiqiang Farouk Bakhtier. "Acoustic wave induced convection and transport in gases under normal and micro-gravity conditions /." Philadelphia, Pa. : Drexel University, 2007. http://hdl.handle.net/1860/1795.

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Yarber, Robert K. "Development and calibration of two and four wire water surface wave height measurement systems." Thesis, Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1992. http://hdl.handle.net/10945/23863.

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Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited<br>Capacitance and conductance measurements using two and four wire techniques were developed and statically and dynamically calibrated in this thesis. The voltage sensitivities range from 7.3 to 8.1 ± 0.1 mV/cm for the two wire capacitance system static calibrations. This is ± 5.2% of the limiting theoretical value. The voltage sensitivities range from 0.3 to 0.4 ± 0.1 V/cm for the four wire conductance system static calibrations. Dynamic calibrations were only completed for the conductance system. The dynamic calibration results
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McAllister, Mark Laing. "Analysis of laboratory and field measurements of directionally spread nonlinear ocean waves." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/28762.

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Surface gravity waves exist in the oceans as multi-directional nonlinear phenomena. Understanding how these two properties interact is intrinsically important in itself. Furthermore, an understanding of this relationship may be used to gain insight into other oceanic phenomena. This thesis first describes an experimental investigation into the relationship between directionality and non-linearity (Part I). This relationship was then used as a tool to estimate the directional spreading of field data (Part II). Experiments have been conducted in which directionally spread focused wave groups wer
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Parmhed, Oskar. "Near surface atmospheric flow over high latitude glaciers." Doctoral thesis, Stockholm University, Department of Meteorology, 2004. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:su:diva-197.

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<p>In this thesis various descriptions of the near surface atmospheric flow over a high latitude glacier is used in an effort to increase our understanding of the basic flow dynamics there.</p><p>Through their contribution to sea-level change, mountain glaciers play a significant role in Earth’s climate system. Properties of the near surface atmospheric flow are important for understanding glacier response to climate change.</p><p>Here, the near surface atmospheric flow is studied from several perspectives including the effects of both rotation and slope. Rotation is an important aspect of mos
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Kupčíková, Laura. "Částice plovoucí na volné hladině vln." Master's thesis, Vysoké učení technické v Brně. Fakulta strojního inženýrství, 2021. http://www.nusl.cz/ntk/nusl-444637.

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This master’s thesis deals with analytical and numerical description of surface gravity waves. Wave theories and their influence on water particle movement is described in the theoretical part of the thesis. Water particle moves in the same direction as wave propagation and this phenomenon is called Stokes drift. It has a significant influence on sediment transport and floating particle movement at water free surface. The experimental part consists of wave profile monitoring and water particle tracking in a wave flume with wave generator and beach model. The experimental results are compared w
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Chapalain, Georges. "Étude hydrodynamique et sédimentaire des environnements littoraux dominés par la houle." Université Joseph Fourier (Grenoble ; 1971-2015), 1988. http://www.theses.fr/1988GRE10121.

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La propagation des houles longues est étudiée expérimentalement, théoriquement et numériquement. La validité du modèle harmonique quasi-résonnant de lau et barcilon (1972) est confirmée. Les processus hydro-sédimentaires se développant dans la couche limite turbulente de fond générée par la houle sont analysés à l'aide d'un modèle uni-dimensionnel avec fermeture turbulente au second ordre. Un modèle simplifie avec fermeture turbulente au premier ordre est envisagé dans la perspective d'une modélisation des interactions des trains de houle avec un fond sableux. La modélisation hydro-morphologiq
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Книги з теми "Surface gravity wave"

1

Howell, David W. A numerical study of rain-induced surface gravity wave attenuation. Naval Postgraduate School, 1989.

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2

Vanden-Broeck, J. M. Gravity-capillary free-surface flows. Cambridge University Press, 2010.

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3

Vanden-Broeck, J. M. Gravity-capillary free-surface flows. Cambridge University Press, 2010.

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4

Keeley, J. R. SAR sensitivities to surface gravity waves. Department of Fisheries and Oceans, 1992.

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5

Agnon, Yehuda. Nonlinear diffraction of ocean gravity waves. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1986.

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6

Lawrence, Richard T. Experimental inquires into collective sea state modes in deep water surface gravity waves. Naval Postgraduate School, 1992.

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7

Abou-Taleb, A. A. A microwave model for investigating first and second order electromagnetic scattering from gravity water waves on the surface. University of Birmingham, 1985.

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8

Zeitlin, Vladimir. Rotating Shallow-Water Models with Moist Convection. Oxford University Press, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198804338.003.0015.

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It is shown how the standard RSW can be ’augmented’ to include phase transitions of water. This chapter explains how to incorporate extra (convective) vertical fluxes in the model. By using Lagrangian conservation of equivalent potential temperature condensation of the water vapour, which is otherwise a passive tracer, is included in the model and linked to convective fluxes. Simple relaxational parameterisation of condensation permits the closure of the system, and surface evaporation can be easily included. Physical and mathematical properties of thus obtained model are explained, and illust
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Gravity-capillary Free Surface Flows (Cambridge Monographs on Mechanics). Cambridge University Press, 2008.

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10

Ferriole, Mary Ann. Laboratory observations of the evolution of surface-gravity waves through the shoaling and breaking regions and the surf zone. 1991.

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Частини книг з теми "Surface gravity wave"

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Harger, Robert O. "The SAR Image of Short Gravity Waves On a Long Gravity Wave." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_26.

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Hasselmann, D., J. Bösenberg, M. Dunckel, K. Richter, M. Grünewald, and H. Carlson. "Measurements of Wave-Induced Pressure over Surface Gravity Waves." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_25.

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Kwoh, Daniel S. W., and Bruce M. Lake. "Microwave Scattering from Short Gravity Waves." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_30.

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Masuda, Akira. "Nonlinear Energy Transfer between Random Gravity Waves." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_3.

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Su, Ming-Yang, and Albert W. Green. "Experimental Studies of Strong Nonlinear Interactions of Deep-Water Gravity Waves." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_15.

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Huang, Norden E., Steven R. Long, and Larry F. Bliven. "An Experimental Study of the Statistical Properties of Wind-Generated Gravity Waves." In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Springer US, 1986. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4684-8980-4_8.

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Christiansen, Søren. "A Stability Analysis of a Eulerian Method for Some Surface Gravity Wave Problems." In Nonlinear Hyperbolic Equations — Theory, Computation Methods, and Applications. Vieweg+Teubner Verlag, 1989. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-322-87869-4_8.

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Miles, Alan J., and B. Roberts. "Magnetoacoustic-Gravity Surface Waves." In Mechanisms of Chromospheric and Coronal Heating. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1991. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-87455-0_84.

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Longuet-Higgins, M. S. "A New Way to Calculate Steep Gravity Waves." In The Ocean Surface. Springer Netherlands, 1985. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-94-015-7717-5_1.

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Pedlosky, Joseph. "Equations of Motion; Surface Gravity Waves." In Waves in the Ocean and Atmosphere. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2003. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-05131-3_3.

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Тези доповідей конференцій з теми "Surface gravity wave"

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Fu, Shenhe, Yuval Tsur, Jianying Zhou, Lev Shemer, and Ady Arie. "Surface Gravity Water Wave Airy Wavepacket." In Laser Science. OSA, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1364/ls.2015.lth1h.1.

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Clement, Eric, Lenaic Bonneau, Bruno Andreotti, Masami Nakagawa, and Stefan Luding. "Surface wave acoustics of granular packing under gravity." In POWDERS AND GRAINS 2009: PROCEEDINGS OF THE 6TH INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON MICROMECHANICS OF GRANULAR MEDIA. AIP, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.3179945.

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Gade, Martin, Thomas Alexander Grobelny, and Detlef Stammer. "Multi-polarization scatterometer measurements of long surface gravity wave breaking." In IGARSS 2014 - 2014 IEEE International Geoscience and Remote Sensing Symposium. IEEE, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1109/igarss.2014.6947022.

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4

Dimas, Athanassios A. "Large-Wave Simulation of Surface Tension Effect on Weak Spilling Breakers." In ASME 2005 24th International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2005. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2005-67278.

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The effect of surface tension on the evolution of weak spilling breakers is studied by performing large-wave simulations (LWS) of the free-surface flow developing by the interaction of a gravity free-surface wave and a surface shear-layer current. The flow models the evolution of gravity waves under the influence of wind shear. The surface tension modifies the dynamic free-surface condition and its effect depends on the dimensionless Weber number. The Euler equations are filtered according to the LWS formulation and solved numerically by a spectral method and a fractional-time-step scheme. The
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Roland Kjærgaard Qwist, Jesper, and Erik Damgaard Christensen. "Solitary Wave Propagation Using a Novel Single Fluid Finite Volume Method for Free Surface Gravity Waves." In ASME 2022 41st International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2022-80255.

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Abstract Accurate prediction of wave loads from extreme waves on individual beams in offshore jacket structures are important to ensure the structural integrity. As the load distribution along a beam is strongly tied to the wave kinematics it is crucial to have an accurate prediction of the surface elevation and the velocity field. The open-source CFD code OpenFOAM contains two solution algorithms (interFoam and interIsoFoam), which are used for ocean wave simulations and wave load predictions. The algorithms are often applied using a too coarse spatial discretisation, which violates the assum
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Hayashi, Koichi, Akinori Okada, Toshifumi Matsuoka, and Hideki Hatakeyama. "Joint Analysis of a Surface‐Wave Method and a Micro‐Gravity Survey." In Symposium on the Application of Geophysics to Engineering and Environmental Problems 2004. Environment and Engineering Geophysical Society, 2004. http://dx.doi.org/10.4133/1.2923309.

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Hayashi, Koichi, Akinori Okada, Toshifumi Matsuoka, and Hideki Hatakeyama. "Joint Analysis Of A Surface-Wave Method And A Micro-Gravity Survey." In 17th EEGS Symposium on the Application of Geophysics to Engineering and Environmental Problems. European Association of Geoscientists & Engineers, 2004. http://dx.doi.org/10.3997/2214-4609-pdb.186.sur09.

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Calder, A. C. "Mixing by Non-linear Gravity Wave Breaking on a White Dwarf Surface." In CLASSICAL NOVA EXPLOSIONS: International Conference on Classical Nova Explosions. AIP, 2002. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.1518190.

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Roos, Jannicke, Chris Swan, and Sverre Haver. "Wave Impacts on the Column of a Gravity Based Structure." In ASME 2010 29th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2010. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2010-20648.

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An accurate prediction of the wave loading on the columns of any offshore structure is an integral part of the design / re-assessment process. Earlier studies have investigated the nonlinear loads on single columns covering a wide range of diameters (expressed as a ratio of the incident wave length) and addressing a variety of incident wave steepness. As a result, it is generally accepted that wave-structure interaction effects can be important even outside the diffraction regime and may be one possible cause of structural dynamic response. The importance of wave-structure and wave-wave intera
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Bredmose, H., J. Skourup, E. A. Hansen, E. D. Christensen, L. M. Pedersen, and A. Mitzlaff. "Numerical Reproduction of Extreme Wave Loads on a Gravity Wind Turbine Foundation." In 25th International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2006. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2006-92258.

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A fully nonlinear 3D Navier Stokes solver with VOF (Volume of Fluid) treatment of the free surface is used to reproduce two extreme laboratory wave impacts on a gravity wind turbine foundation. The wave climate is irregular waves with a current. Numerical results for inline force, overturning moment and run-up are compared to measurements. The extreme wave loads for the two events are associated with slamming onto the under side of a horizontal platform placed 9.1m above the still water level. For such impacts, the computed wave loads are strongly sensitive to the shape of the incoming waves.
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Звіти організацій з теми "Surface gravity wave"

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Guza, R. T. Surface Gravity Waves And Ambient Microseismic Noise. Defense Technical Information Center, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada256498.

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Hara, Tetsu. Interaction Between Surface Gravity Waves and Near Surface Atmospheric Turbulence. Defense Technical Information Center, 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada634931.

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3

Sullivan, Peter P., James C. McWilliams, and Chin-Hoh Moeng. Surface Gravity Waves and Coupled Marine Boundary Layers. Defense Technical Information Center, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada625363.

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4

Guza, Robert T. Surface Gravity Waves on the Continental Shelf and Beach. Defense Technical Information Center, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada389276.

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5

Ko, Dong S. A Multiscale Nested Modeling Framework to Simulate the Interaction of Surface Gravity Waves with Nonlinear Internal Gravity Waves. Defense Technical Information Center, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ad1013704.

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6

Van Roekel, Luke, Erin Thomas, and Olawale Ikuyajolu. Enabling studies of long term climate effects from surface gravity waves. Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI), 2023. http://dx.doi.org/10.2172/1968204.

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7

Street, Robert L. Large Eddy Simulation of Sediment Transport in the Presence of Surface Gravity Waves, Currents and Complex Bedforms. Defense Technical Information Center, 2003. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada627539.

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8

Street, Robert L. Large Eddy Simulation of Sediment Transport in the Presence of Surface Gravity Waves, Currents and Complex Bedforms. Defense Technical Information Center, 2002. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada628143.

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9

McWilliams, James C., and Yusuke Uchiyama. The Effects of Surface Gravity Waves on Coastal Currents: Implementation, Phenomenological Exploration, and Realistic Simulation with ROMS. Defense Technical Information Center, 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada573291.

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10

Street, Robert L. Large Eddy Simulation of Sediment Transport in the Presence of Surface Gravity Waves, Currents and Complex Bedforms. Defense Technical Information Center, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada626196.

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