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Добірка наукової літератури з теми "Wave breaking"

Автор: Grafiati

Опубліковано: 4 червня 2021

Оновлено: 25 липня 2025

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Статті в журналах з теми "Wave breaking"

1

Bian, Hongwei, Zhili Zou, and Sheng Yan. "A Computation Model for Coast Wave Motions with Multiple Breakings." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 12, no. 6 (2024): 860. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse12060860.

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This paper presents a computational model for coast wave motions with multiple wave breakings. In the Boussinesq model, the wave breaking judgment method is combined with the wave recovery judgment condition, which stops the wave breaking process when triggered. The energy dissipation of wave breaking is corrected, and the dissipation of wave energy is maintained at about 10% during the wave recovery stage, so that the dissipation caused by the residual turbulent motion of wave breaking and the increase in wave height caused by the shallowing of waves due to the water bottom slope are offset.

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2

Hwang, Paul A., Delun Xu, and Jin Wu. "Breaking of wind-generated waves: measurements and characteristics." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 202 (May 1989): 177–200. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s002211208900114x.

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A method of using local wave properties to provide a detailed description of breakings in a random wave field is developed. These properties, derived through the Hilbert transform, include the angular frequency, phase velocity, and surface-velocity components. The breaking characteristics are presented, including the probability of breaking, its time- and lengthscales, its intensity, and the phase of its inception. The time- and lengthscales, of breaking events were found to be linearly proportional to the corresponding scales of underlying waves, and to indicate that the breaking region is ge

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3

Bulanov, S. V., F. Pegoraro, A. M. Pukhov, and A. S. Sakharov. "Transverse-Wake Wave Breaking." Physical Review Letters 78, no. 22 (1997): 4205–8. http://dx.doi.org/10.1103/physrevlett.78.4205.

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4

Li, Changfei, Fuping Gao, and Lijing Yang. "Breaking-Wave Induced Transient Pore Pressure in a Sandy Seabed: Flume Modeling and Observations." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 9, no. 2 (2021): 160. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse9020160.

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Previous studies on wave-induced pore pressure in a porous seabed mainly focused on non-breaking regular waves, e.g., Airy linear waves or Stokes non-linear waves. In this study, breaking-wave induced pore pressure response in a sandy seabed was physically simulated with a large wave flume. The breaking-wave was generated by superimposing a series of longer waves onto the foregoing shorter waves at a specified location. Water surface elevations and the corresponding pore pressure in the process of wave breaking were measured simultaneously at three typical locations, i.e., at the rear, just at

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5

McAllister, M. L., S. Draycott, R. Calvert, T. Davey, F. Dias, and T. S. van den Bremer. "Three-dimensional wave breaking." Nature 633, no. 8030 (2024): 601–7. http://dx.doi.org/10.1038/s41586-024-07886-z.

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AbstractAlthough a ubiquitous natural phenomenon, the onset and subsequent process of surface wave breaking are not fully understood. Breaking affects how steep waves become and drives air–sea exchanges1. Most seminal and state-of-the-art research on breaking is underpinned by the assumption of two-dimensionality, although ocean waves are three dimensional. We present experimental results that assess how three-dimensionality affects breaking, without putting limits on the direction of travel of the waves. We show that the breaking-onset steepness of the most directionally spread case is double

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6

Tejerina-Risso, J., and P. Le Gal. "Around the Cusp Singularity and the Breaking of Waves." Leonardo 47, no. 1 (2014): 80–82. http://dx.doi.org/10.1162/leon_a_00687.

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WAVES is an “Art-Science” project on water surface waves. The authors aim to visualize the behaviour of water waves during their evolution: generation, focusing and breaking. Relying on the general property of waves to focus when properly generated or reflected, the authors use a parabolically shaped wave maker to focus water waves in a region of the water surface called the Huygens cusp in optics and then record these breakings using a fast video camera. A novel and spectacular vision of wave breakings is obtained when playing at slow speed.

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7

Knobler, Sagi, Ewelina Winiarska, Alexander Babanin, and Dan Liberzon. "Wave breaking probabilities under wind forcing in open sea and laboratory." Physics of Fluids 34, no. 3 (2022): 032122. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/5.0084276.

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Water wave breaking represents one of the most arduous problems in fluid mechanics. Understanding the process of wave breaking and developing an ability to quantify the associated energy losses and redistribution are critical across a wide range of coastal oceanic applications, maritime navigation, and climate and hydrodynamic research. Naturally, waves become steeper toward the inception of breaking; however, there is still a lack of unanimity regarding the relationship between breaking probability statistics and wave steepness. Here, we present a detailed investigation of breaking vs non-bre

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8

Seyama, Akira, and Akira Kimura. "THE MEASURED PROPERTIES OF IRREGULAR WAVE BREAKING AND WAVE HEIGHT CHANGE AFTER BREAKING ON THE SLOPE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (1988): 29. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.29.

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Wave height change of the zero-down-cross waves on uniform slopes were examined experimentally. The properties of shoaling, breaking and decay after breaking for a total of about 4,000 irregular waves of the Pierson-Moskowitz type on 4 different slopes (1/10, 1/20, 1/30 and 1/50) were investigated. The shoaling property of the zero-down-cross waves can be approximated by the linear wave theory. However, the properties of breaking and decay after breaking differ considerably from those for periodic waves. The wave height water depth ratio (H/d) at the breaking point for the zero-down-cross wave

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9

You, Tao, Li Ping Zhao, Zheng Xiao, Lun Chao Huang, and Xiao Rui Han. "Research and Analysis on the Wave Transformation and Irregular Wave Breaking Criterion on the Shore." Applied Mechanics and Materials 858 (November 2016): 354–58. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.858.354.

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Within the surf zone which is the region extending from the seaward boundary of wave breaking to the limit of wave uprush, breaking waves are the dominant hydrodynamics acting as the key role for sediment transport and beach profile change. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principally depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave transformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set down and wave height d

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10

Kishi, Tsutomu. "TRANSFORMATION, BREAKING AND RUN-UP OF A LONG WAVE OF FINITE HEIGHT." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 8 (2011): 5. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v8.5.

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On studying the transformation, breaking and run-up of a relatively steep wave of a short period, the theory for waves of permanent type has given us many fruitful results. However, the theory gradually loses its applicability as a wave becomes flat, since a considerable deformation of the wave profile is inevitable in its propagation. In § 1, a discussion concerning the transformation of a long wave in a channel of variable section is presented based on the non-linear shallow water theory. Approximate solutions obtained by G. B. Whitham's method (1958) are shown. Further, some brief con

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Дисертації з теми "Wave breaking"

1

Pullen, Timothy Arnold. "A numerical study of breaking waves and breaking criteria." Thesis, University of Brighton, 2002. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.251809.

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2

Griffiths, Matthew W. P. "Breaking waves." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 1989. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/13963.

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3

Sweeny, Margaret E. "Breaking wave turbulence in the surf zone." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2005. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion/05Jun%5FSweeny.pdf.

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Анотація:

Thesis (M.S. in Applied Science (Physical Oceanography))--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2005.<br>Thesis Advisor(s): Timothy P. Stanton. Includes bibliographical references (p. 51). Also available online.

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4

Tew, R. "Imaging theory of surface-breaking discontinuities." Thesis, University of Oxford, 1987. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.380008.

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5

Weir, Brad. "The transfer of momentum from waves to currents due to wave breaking." Diss., The University of Arizona, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/195128.

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The research presented in this dissertation focuses on understanding the dynamics of waves and currents in the presence of wave breaking. The simplest approach, direct numerical simulation of the ocean dynamics, is computationally prohibitive--waves typically have periods of tens of seconds, while currents vary on times from hours to days. This work uses a multi-scale asymptotic theory for the waves and currents (Craik and Leibovich, 1976; McWilliams et al., 2004}, similar to Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes, in order to avoid resolving the wave field. The theory decomposes the total flow int

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6

MuÌˆller, Gerald Uwe. "A study of breaking wave loads on a shoreline wave power station." Thesis, Queen's University Belfast, 1993. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.333837.

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7

Shand, Thomas Duncan Civil &amp Environmental Engineering Faculty of Engineering UNSW. "The effect of wave grouping on shoaling and breaking processes." Awarded by:University of New South Wales. Civil & Environmental Engineering, 2009. http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/44588.

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Анотація:

Determining the largest breaking wave height which can occur in water of finite depth is a fundamental reference quantity for the design of coastal structures. Current design guidelines are based on investigations which predominantly used monochromatic waves, thereby neglecting group effects which are inherent to the free propagation of waves in deep water. The Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM) states that wave grouping and its consequences is of significant concern, with breakwater armour damage being generally attributed to higher waves associated with wave groups. However, the CEM also ackno

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8

Zhang, Erik. "Breaking of a rod induced by wave propagation." Thesis, KTH, Teoretisk fysik, 2014. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:kth:diva-145873.

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The aim of this project is to visualize multiple failure of an inelastic rod, caused by wave propagating through the rod, as the result can be applied to a spaghetti where it commonly breaks into multiple pieces. By looking into the wave we will see that when the wave propagates, it will cause local increase of bending which causes a secondary break. Method which is used to solve this problem is primary solving a fourth order partial dierential equation (PDE) which is derived from calculus of variations. This PDE is then solved numerically and analytically. Other approach to this problem is al

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9

Ryu, Yong Uk. "Extreme wave impinging and overtopping." [College Station, Tex. : Texas A&M University, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/1969.1/ETD-TAMU-1768.

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10

Jorgensen, Carther Frederic. "Wave slopes and breaking distributions in the surf zone." Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 1996. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA309161.

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Thesis (M.S. in Physical Oceanography) Naval Postgraduate School, March 1996.<br>"March 1996." Thesis advisor(s): Edward B. Thornton, Thomas C. Lippmann. Bibliography: p. 47-48. Also Available online.

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Більше джерел

Книги з теми "Wave breaking"

1

Lemos, Carlos M. Wave Breaking. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84688-5.

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2

Shute, Nevil. The breaking wave. Vintage Books, 2010.

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3

Lemos, C. M. Wave breaking: A numerical study. Springer-Verlag, 1992.

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4

Balsillie, James H. Shore-breaking wave height transformation. Florida Geological Survey, 2000.

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5

1941-, Curtin Dennis P., ed. Information technology: The breaking wave. Irwin/McGraw-Hill, 1998.

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6

Leeuwen, P. J. van. Low frequency wave generation due to breaking wind waves. Faculty of Civil Engineering, Delft University of Technology, 1992.

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7

Friedman, Jeff. The record-breaking heat wave: Poems. BkMk Press, 1986.

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8

Banner, Michael L. Breaking Waves: IUTAM Symposium Sydney, Australia 1991. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992.

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9

1931-, Toba Y., Mitsuyasu Hisashi 1929-, IOC/SCOR Committee on Climatic Changes and the Ocean., WMO/ICSU Joint Scientific Committee., and Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface (1984 : Tohoku University), eds. The Ocean surface: Wave breaking, turbulent mixing, and radio probing. Reidel, 1985.

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10

Immaculate, Oblates of Mary, ed. In a breaking wave: Living history of the Lower North Shore. Missionnaires oblats de Marie-Immaculée, 1988.

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Частини книг з теми "Wave breaking"

1

Kjeldsen, Søren Peter. "Breaking Waves." In Water Wave Kinematics. Springer Netherlands, 1990. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_29.

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2

Watanabe, Yasunori. "Breaking Wave Dynamics." In Dynamics of Water Surface Flows and Waves. CRC Press, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.1201/9781003140160-8.

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3

Katsaros, Kristina B., and Serhad S. Ataktürk. "Dependence of Wave-Breaking Statistics on Wind Stress and Wave Development." In Breaking Waves. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_9.

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4

Cavaleri, L., and P. Lionello. "Possible Mechanisms for Wave Breaking." In Breaking Waves. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_16.

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5

Peregrine, D. H. "Mechanisms of Water-Wave Breaking." In Breaking Waves. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_3.

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6

Peregrine, D. H. "Computations of Breaking Waves." In Water Wave Kinematics. Springer Netherlands, 1990. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_30.

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7

Zakharov, V. E. "Inverse and Direct Cascade in the Wind-Driven Surface Wave Turbulence and Wave-Breaking." In Breaking Waves. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_5.

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8

Su, Ming-Yang, and John Cartmill. "Breaking Wave Statistics Obtained During ‘Swade’." In Breaking Waves. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_14.

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9

Ebuchi, N., H. Kawamura, and Y. Toba. "Microwave Backscattering from Laboratory Wind-Wave Surfaces and its Relation to Wave Breaking with Bubble Entrainment." In Breaking Waves. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_7.

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10

Kitaigorodskii, Sergei A. "The Dissipation Subrange of Wind Wave Spectra." In Breaking Waves. Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 1992. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_20.

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Тези доповідей конференцій з теми "Wave breaking"

1

Kuznetsov, Sergey, Sergey Kuznetsov, Yana Saprykina, Yana Saprykina, Boris Divinskiy, and Boris Divinskiy. "PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA." In Managing risks to coastal regions and communities in a changing world. Academus Publishing, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.31519/conferencearticle_5b1b94019210f7.30842240.

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On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is signific

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2

Kuznetsov, Sergey, Sergey Kuznetsov, Yana Saprykina, Yana Saprykina, Boris Divinskiy, and Boris Divinskiy. "PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA." In Managing risks to coastal regions and communities in a changing world. Academus Publishing, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.21610/conferencearticle_58b4315241f49.

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On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is signific

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3

Castello-Lurbe, David. "Tunable dispersive waves from wave breaking." In Bragg Gratings, Photosensitivity and Poling in Glass Waveguides and Materials. Optica Publishing Group, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.1364/bgppm.2022.jtu2a.18.

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4

Fullerton, Anne M., Thomas C. Fu, and Edward S. Ammeen. "Distribution of Wave Impact Forces From Breaking and Non-Breaking Waves." In ASME 2009 28th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2009-79978.

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Impact loads from waves on vessels and coastal structures are highly complex and may involve wave breaking, making these changes difficult to estimate numerically or empirically. Results from previous experiments have shown a wide range of forces and pressures measured from breaking and non-breaking waves, with no clear trend between wave characteristics and the localized forces and pressures that they generate. In 2008, a canonical breaking wave impact data set was obtained at the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division, by measuring the distribution of impact pressures of incident n

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5

Odzer, Michael, and Kristina Francke. "Acoustic Study of Wave-Breaking to Enhance the Understanding of Wave Physics." In ASME 2020 39th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2020-19352.

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Abstract The sound of waves breaking on shore, or against an obstruction or jetty, is an immediately recognizable sound pattern which could potentially be employed by a sensor system to identify obstructions. If frequency patterns produced by breaking waves can be reproduced and mapped in a laboratory setting, a foundational understanding of the physics behind this process could be established, which could then be employed in sensor development for navigation. This study explores whether wave-breaking frequencies correlate with the physics behind the collapsing of the wave, and whether frequen

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6

Thornton, E. B., C. S. Wu, and R. T. Guza. "Breaking Wave Design Criteria." In 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. American Society of Civil Engineers, 1985. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780872624382.003.

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7

Iwata, Koichiro, Koji Kawasaki, and Do-Sam Kim. "Breaking Limit, Breaking and Post-Breaking Wave Deformation Due to Submerged Structures." In 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. American Society of Civil Engineers, 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784402429.181.

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8

Hovland, Justin, Robert Paasch, and Merrick Haller. "Characterizing Dangerous Waves for Ocean Wave Energy Converter Survivability." In ASME 2010 29th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2010. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2010-20421.

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Ocean Wave Energy Converters (OWECs) operating on the water surface are subject to storms and other extreme events. In particular, high and steep waves, especially breaking waves, are likely the most dangerous to OWECs. A method for quantifying the breaking severity of waves is presented and applied to wave data from Coastal Data Information Program station 139. The data are wave height and length statistics found by conducting a zero-crossing analysis of time-series wave elevation records. Data from two of the most severe storms in the data set were analyzed. In order to estimate the breaking

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9

Chakkurunni Palliyalil, Vipin, Panneer Selvam Rajamanickam, Mayilvahanan Alagan Chella, and Vijaya Kumar Govindasamy. "Experimental Investigations of Breaking Wave Impact Forces on a Monopile Substructure for Offshore Wind Turbines Under Regular Breaking Waves." In ASME 2017 International Mechanical Engineering Congress and Exposition. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/imece2017-71227.

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The main objective of the paper is to investigate wave impact forces from breaking waves on a monopile substructure for offshore wind turbine in shallow waters. This study examines the load assessment parameters relevant for breaking wave forces on a vertical circular cylinder subjected to breaking waves. Experiments are conducted in a shallow water flume and the wave generation is based on piston type wave maker. The experiments are performed with a vertical circular cylinder with diameter, D = 0.20m which represents a monopile substructure for offshore wind turbines with regular waves of fre

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10

Scharnke, Jule, Rene Lindeboom, and Bulent Duz. "Wave-in-Deck Impact Loads in Relation With Wave Kinematics." In ASME 2017 36th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2017-61406.

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Breaking waves have been studied for many decades and are still of interest as these waves contribute significantly to the dynamics and loading of offshore structures. In current MARIN research this awareness has led to the setup of an experiment to determine the kinematics of breaking waves using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV). The purpose of the measurement campaign is to determine the evolution of the kinematics of breaking focussed waves. In addition to the PIV measurements in waves, small scale wave-in-deck impact load measurements on a fixed deck box were carried out in the same wave c

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Звіти організацій з теми "Wave breaking"

1

Smith, Jane M. Nearshore Wave Breaking and Decay. Defense Technical Information Center, 1993. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada268810.

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2

Fullerton, Anne M., Ann Marie Powers, Don C. Walker, and Susan Brewton. The Distribution of Breaking and Non-Breaking Wave Impact Forces. Defense Technical Information Center, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada495574.

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3

Lippmann, Thomas C. Wave Breaking and Wave Driven Flow in the Nearshore. Defense Technical Information Center, 2000. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada609992.

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4

Veeramony, Jayaram, and Ib A. Svendsen. Propagation and Breaking of Wave Groups. Defense Technical Information Center, 1995. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada295225.

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5

Farmer, David M., and Johannes Gemmrich. Wave Breaking and Near-Surface Turbulence. Defense Technical Information Center, 2002. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada626448.

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6

Lippmann, Thomas C. Wave Breaking, Infragravity Waves, and Sediment Transport in the Nearshore. Defense Technical Information Center, 1999. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada629637.

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7

Lippmann, Thomas C. Wave Breaking and Dissipation in the Nearshore. Defense Technical Information Center, 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada628436.

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8

Shen, Lian. Multiscale Deterministic Wave Modeling with Wind Input and Wave Breaking Dissipation. Defense Technical Information Center, 2006. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada612024.

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9

Shen, Liam. Multiscale Deterministic Wave Modeling with Wind Input and Wave Breaking Dissipation. Defense Technical Information Center, 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada573209.

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10

Zakharov, V. E. Modeling Swell, High Frequency Spreading and Wave Breaking. Defense Technical Information Center, 1999. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada629906.

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