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Дисертації з теми "Wave breaking"

Автор: Grafiati

Опубліковано: 4 червня 2021

Оновлено: 25 липня 2025

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1

Pullen, Timothy Arnold. "A numerical study of breaking waves and breaking criteria." Thesis, University of Brighton, 2002. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.251809.

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2

Griffiths, Matthew W. P. "Breaking waves." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 1989. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/13963.

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3

Sweeny, Margaret E. "Breaking wave turbulence in the surf zone." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2005. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion/05Jun%5FSweeny.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Applied Science (Physical Oceanography))--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2005.<br>Thesis Advisor(s): Timothy P. Stanton. Includes bibliographical references (p. 51). Also available online.

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4

Tew, R. "Imaging theory of surface-breaking discontinuities." Thesis, University of Oxford, 1987. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.380008.

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5

Weir, Brad. "The transfer of momentum from waves to currents due to wave breaking." Diss., The University of Arizona, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/195128.

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The research presented in this dissertation focuses on understanding the dynamics of waves and currents in the presence of wave breaking. The simplest approach, direct numerical simulation of the ocean dynamics, is computationally prohibitive--waves typically have periods of tens of seconds, while currents vary on times from hours to days. This work uses a multi-scale asymptotic theory for the waves and currents (Craik and Leibovich, 1976; McWilliams et al., 2004}, similar to Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes, in order to avoid resolving the wave field. The theory decomposes the total flow int

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6

MuÌˆller, Gerald Uwe. "A study of breaking wave loads on a shoreline wave power station." Thesis, Queen's University Belfast, 1993. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.333837.

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7

Shand, Thomas Duncan Civil &amp Environmental Engineering Faculty of Engineering UNSW. "The effect of wave grouping on shoaling and breaking processes." Awarded by:University of New South Wales. Civil & Environmental Engineering, 2009. http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/44588.

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Determining the largest breaking wave height which can occur in water of finite depth is a fundamental reference quantity for the design of coastal structures. Current design guidelines are based on investigations which predominantly used monochromatic waves, thereby neglecting group effects which are inherent to the free propagation of waves in deep water. The Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM) states that wave grouping and its consequences is of significant concern, with breakwater armour damage being generally attributed to higher waves associated with wave groups. However, the CEM also ackno

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8

Zhang, Erik. "Breaking of a rod induced by wave propagation." Thesis, KTH, Teoretisk fysik, 2014. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:kth:diva-145873.

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The aim of this project is to visualize multiple failure of an inelastic rod, caused by wave propagating through the rod, as the result can be applied to a spaghetti where it commonly breaks into multiple pieces. By looking into the wave we will see that when the wave propagates, it will cause local increase of bending which causes a secondary break. Method which is used to solve this problem is primary solving a fourth order partial dierential equation (PDE) which is derived from calculus of variations. This PDE is then solved numerically and analytically. Other approach to this problem is al

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9

Ryu, Yong Uk. "Extreme wave impinging and overtopping." [College Station, Tex. : Texas A&M University, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/1969.1/ETD-TAMU-1768.

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10

Jorgensen, Carther Frederic. "Wave slopes and breaking distributions in the surf zone." Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 1996. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA309161.

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Thesis (M.S. in Physical Oceanography) Naval Postgraduate School, March 1996.<br>"March 1996." Thesis advisor(s): Edward B. Thornton, Thomas C. Lippmann. Bibliography: p. 47-48. Also Available online.

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11

Masato, Giacomo. "A wave-breaking analysis of northern hemisphere winter blocking." Thesis, University of Reading, 2010. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.541946.

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12

Canning, Paul John. "Wave breaking on fixed impermeable and mobile permeable beaches." Thesis, University of Brighton, 2002. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.246822.

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13

Herrera, Gamboa María Piedad. "Mound Breakwater Design in Depth-Limited Breaking Wave Conditions." Doctoral thesis, Universitat Politècnica de València, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/10251/82553.

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The design of rubble mound breakwaters usually focuses on the main armor layer. A review of the existing literature reveals that different equations are used to design rock armors in non-breaking wave conditions. However, most rubble mound breakwaters are constructed in the depth-induced breaking zone where they are attacked by waves breaking in the foreshore; in these conditions, existing design equations are not valid. Therefore, in this PhD thesis, the hydraulic stability of double-layer rock armors is analyzed through a series of small-scale tests conducted with a bottom slope m=1/50. Base

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14

Sudhesh, Krishnan Nair Govindavilas. "The influence of geometry on breaking wave loads for a shoreline wave power station." Thesis, Queen's University Belfast, 1999. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.324843.

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15

Bisgard, Charlie. "Breaking and non-breaking solitary wave impact pressures on a cylinder over a 3-D bathymetry." Thesis, (4 MB), 2005. http://edocs.nps.edu/AR/topic/theses/2005/Jan/05Jan_Bisgard.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S.Civil and Environmental Engineering and Construction Management)--Oregon State University, 2005.<br>"January 2005." Description based on title screen as viewed on June 1, 2010 DTIC Descriptor(s): Three Dimensional, Bathymetry, Tsunamis, Earthquakes, Coastal Regions, Ocean Waves, Inertia, Landslides, Gravitational Fields, Seafloor Spreading, Long Wavelengths, Models, Energy, Theses, Time Includes bibliographical references (p. 84-85). Also available in print.

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16

Lee, Kwang Soo. "3-D wave-induced nearshore circulation model." Thesis, University of Liverpool, 1998. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.367281.

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17

Jillians, William James. "The overturning of steep water waves." Thesis, University of Cambridge, 1988. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.328707.

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18

Guarino, Maria Vittoria. "Mountain wave breaking in atmospheric flows with directional wind shear." Thesis, University of Reading, 2017. http://centaur.reading.ac.uk/75850/.

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In this thesis, mountain wave breaking triggered by directional wind shear is investigated using numerical simulations of idealized and semi-idealized orographic flows. Idealized simulations are used to produce a regime diagram to diagnose conditions for wave breaking in Richardson number-dimensionless mountain height parameter space. It is found that, in the presence of directional shear, wave breaking can occur over lower mountains than in a constant-wind case. Furthermore, the extent of regions within the simulation domain where Clear-Air Turbulence (CAT) is expected increases with terrain

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19

Huussen, Tycho Nout. "Is the Indian Ocean MOC driven by internal wave breaking?" Thesis, University of Southampton, 2010. https://eprints.soton.ac.uk/209663/.

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This dissertation investigates the energetics of the Indian Ocean Meridional Overturning Circulation (MOC) using hydrographic data (Part I), and the interaction between a broad band internal wave field and a mean flow using idealized numerical simulations (Part II). The main objective of this work is to quantify how much energy is needed to drive the Indian Ocean MOC and to compare this with the energy available in the internal wave field. The turbulent dissipation needed to sustain the MOC is estimated by assuming a `mixing efficiency' of 0.2 and an advective-diffusive balance in neutral dens

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20

Wilms, Mayumi Louise [Verfasser]. "Criteria of wave breaking onset and its variability in irregular wave trains / Mayumi Louise Wilms." Hannover : Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz Universität Hannover, 2018. http://d-nb.info/1162620730/34.

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21

MacDonald, Neil Joseph. "Numerical modelling of non-linear wave-induced nearshore circulation." Thesis, University of Liverpool, 1998. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.367282.

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22

Md, Noar Nor. "Wave impacts on rectangular structures." Thesis, Brunel University, 2012. http://bura.brunel.ac.uk/handle/2438/6609.

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There is a good deal of uncertainty and sensitivity in the results for wave impact. In a practical situation, many parameters such as the wave climate will not be known with any accuracy especially the frequency and severity of wave breaking. Even if the wave spectrum is known, this is usually recorded offshore, requiring same sort of (linear) transfer function to estimate the wave climate at the seawall. What is more, the higher spectral moments will generally be unknown. Wave breaking, according to linear wave theory, is known to depend on the wave spectrum, see Srokosz (1986) and Greenhow (

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23

Regis, Jennifer L. "Application of a three-dimensional model to deep-water wave breaking." [Gainesville, Fla.] : University of Florida, 2005. http://purl.fcla.edu/fcla/etd/UFE0011684.

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24

Xu, Li. "Breaking wave slap loading on FPSO bows and shallow water cylinders." Thesis, University of Strathclyde, 2006. http://oleg.lib.strath.ac.uk:80/R/?func=dbin-jump-full&object_id=25258.

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In 1989 the Schiehallion FPSO suffered bow damage from a steep fronted wave slap and the uncertainty in how to design for this type of loading became a concern to the oil industry and the regulators. The aim of this study is to research the insight of breaking wave impact on the bow of ship-type offshore structures experimentally and develop a methodology on how to design this type of loading. Steep wave impact pressures and the structural dynamic response on FPSO (shipshaped Floating oil Production Storage and Offloading vessel) bows are studied using 1180 scale instrumented models and time d

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25

Mares, Nasarre Patricia. "Overtopping flow on mound breakwaters under depth-limited breaking wave conditions." Doctoral thesis, Universitat Politècnica de València, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10251/163154.

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[ES] El cambio climático y la conciencia social sobre el impacto de las infraestructuras en el medio está llevando a la necesidad de diseñar diques en talud con cotas de coronación reducidas frente a eventos de rebase más extremos. Además, la mayoría de estos diques se construyen en zonas de profundidades reducidas, donde el oleaje rompe a causa de la limitación por fondo. Estudios recientes apuntan a la necesidad de considerar no sólo la caudal medio de rebase (q) sino también el máximo volumen individual de rebase (Vmax), el espesor de lámina de agua (OLT) y la velocidad del flujo de rebase

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26

Varing, Audrey. "Wave characterization for coastal and nearshore marine renewable energy applications : focus on wave breaking and spatial varaibility of the wave field." Thesis, Brest, 2019. http://www.theses.fr/2019BRES0105.

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Les énergies marines renouvelables (EMR) sont soumises aux vagues générées par le vent. Une caractérisation précise de ces vagues est nécessaire dans les zones côtières et littorales où les vagues interagissent fortement avec le fond, générant de la réfraction et du déferlement parmi d’autres processus.Une étude approfondie sur l’initiation du déferlement est développée. La validité du critère de déferlement conventionnel uc/c (rapport entre la vitesse orbitale horizontale à la crête et la vitesse de phase) est examinée numériquement. Cette étude nous mène à définir un nouveau critère cinémati

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27

Wang, Xiaohong. "Onset of planetary wave breaking in a model of the polar stratospheric vortex." Thesis, National Library of Canada = Bibliothèque nationale du Canada, 1998. http://www.collectionscanada.ca/obj/s4/f2/dsk2/tape17/PQDD_0022/NQ36652.pdf.

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28

GILIBERTI, ELIA. "ON NEUTRON STARS'CRUST BREAKING AND GRAVITATIONAL WAVES EMISSION." Doctoral thesis, Università degli Studi di Milano, 2020. http://hdl.handle.net/2434/704603.

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Many different astrophysical events related to pulsars are taught to be due to starquakes, that could be caused by various possible loadings acting on the crust. However, at the present time, there is still a lack of theoretical well based modelling for most of these loadings and, therefore, we have only a very rough knowledge of the physics of neutron stars’ crust response. This PhD work wants to be a first development of a quite realistic calculation of the effects of chosen loadings, being that the forces due to uniform rotation, differential rotation or pinning, on the crust of pulsars. A

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29

Boily, Patrick. "Spiral wave dynamics under full Euclidean symmetry-breaking: A dynamical system approach." Thesis, University of Ottawa (Canada), 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/10393/29341.

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Spirals are common in Nature: the snail's shell and the ordering of seeds in the sunflower are amongst the most widely-known occurrences. While these are static, dynamic spirals can also be observed in excitable systems such as heart tissue, retina, certain chemical reactions, slime mold aggregates, flame fronts, etc. The images associated with these spirals are often breathtaking, but spirals have also been linked to cardiac arrhythmias, a potentially fatal heart ailment. In the literature, very specific models depending on the excitable system of interest are used to explain the observed beh

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30

Broadbridge, Maria Barbara. "Forcing of the Southern Ocean meridional overturning circulation by internal wave breaking." Thesis, University of Southampton, 2011. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.664982.

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The Southern Ocean is governed by strong wind forcing, energetic eddies and probably intense internal wave fields, which are considered to be generated in part by interaction of the eddy field with bottom topography. While wind and eddy forcing have been recognized in the dynamical balance of the Southern Ocean Meridional Overturning Circulation (MOC), the role of internal waves remains uncertain. The present study aims to investigate the extent to which the interaction of an energetic eddy field with realistic bottom topography, leading to diabatic forcing of the interior stratification throu

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31

Barker, Adrian John. "Tidal interactions between planets and stars." Thesis, University of Cambridge, 2011. https://www.repository.cam.ac.uk/handle/1810/240581.

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Since the first discovery of an extrasolar planet around a solar-type star, observers have detected over 500 planets outside the solar system. Many of these planets have Jovian masses and orbit their host stars in orbits of only a few days, the so-called 'Hot Jupiters'. At such close proximity to their parent stars, strong tidal interactions between the two bodies are expected to cause significant secular spin-orbit evolution. This thesis tackles two problems regarding the tidal evolution of short-period extrasolar planets. In the first part, we adopt a simple model of the orbit-averaged effec

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32

Katsidoniotaki, Eirini. "Extreme wave conditions and the impact on wave energy converters." Licentiate thesis, Uppsala universitet, Elektricitetslära, 2021. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:uu:diva-441043.

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The amount of energy enclosed in ocean waves has been classified as one of the most promising renewable energy sources. Nowadays, different wave energy conversion (WEC) systems are being investigated, but only a few concepts have been operated in a sea environment. One of the largest challenges is to guarantee the offshore survivability of the devices in extreme wave conditions. However, there are large uncertainties related to the prediction of extreme wave loads on WECs. Highfidelity computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations can resolve nonlinear hydrodynamic effects associated with wa

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33

Ward, Simon Colin. "A model study of coastal breakwaters : the performance of Seabee armour units." Thesis, University of Southampton, 1997. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.246199.

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34

Alves, Jose Henrique Gomes de Mattos Mathematics UNSW. "A Saturation-Dependent Dissipation Source Function for Wind-Wave Modelling Applications." Awarded by:University of New South Wales. Mathematics, 2000. http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/17786.

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This study reports on a new formulation of the spectral dissipation source term Sds for wind-wave modelling applications. This new form of Sds features a nonlinear dependence on the local wave spectrum, expressed in terms of the azimuthally integrated saturation parameter B(k)=k^4 F(k). The basic form of this saturation-dependent Sds is based on a new framework for the onset of deep-water wave breaking due to the nonlinear modulation of wave groups. The new form of Sds is succesfully validated through numerical experiments that include exact nonlinear computations of fetch-limited wind-wave ev

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35

Devaney, Louise Claire. "Breaking wave loads and stress analysis of jacket structures supporting offshore wind turbines." Thesis, University of Manchester, 2012. https://www.research.manchester.ac.uk/portal/en/theses/breaking-wave-loads-and-stress-analysis-of-jacket-structures-supporting-offshore-wind-turbines(acef8efd-eae2-4a52-9513-b2873e7a3a25).html.

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In terms of future power generation in UK and Germany, offshore wind is the next big player with 40GW and 32GW capacity planned for installation in both countries respectively by 2030. The latest Round 3 of sites owned by the Crown Estate explore deeper water depths of up to 78m in the Irish Sea. Foundations for offshore wind structures consume around 25% of the total project cost therefore the design of support structures is the subject of this thesis. The current state-of-the-art support structure options available for offshore wind turbines have been outlined in this thesis with an evaluati

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36

Mccabe, Maurice Vincent. "Modelling nearshore waves, runup and overtopping." Thesis, University of Manchester, 2011. https://www.research.manchester.ac.uk/portal/en/theses/modelling-nearshore-waves-runup-and-overtopping(16ee1ecf-542c-4e3d-a150-fcb4d3981f6d).html.

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Coastal flooding from wave overtopping causes considerable damage. Presently, to model wave overtopping one can either make use of physical model tests or empirical tools such as those described in the EurOtop manual. Both these methods have limitations; therefore, a quick and reliable numerical model for wave overtopping would be a very useful tool for a coastal engineer.This research aims to test and develop a numerical model (in one horizontal dimension) for nearshore waves, runup and overtopping. The Shallow Water And Boussinesq (SWAB) model solves the Boussinesq-type equations of Madsen a

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37

Zappa, Christopher Joseph. "Microscale wave breaking and its effect on air-water gas transfer using infrared imagery /." Thesis, Connect to this title online; UW restricted, 1999. http://hdl.handle.net/1773/10184.

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38

Samtleben, Nadja, and Ch Jacobi. "Impact of intermittent gravity wave activity on the middle atmospheric circulation during boreal winter." Universität Leipzig, 2018. https://ul.qucosa.de/id/qucosa%3A31793.

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Simulations of the circulation in the middle atmosphere during northern winter performed with a nonlinear, mechanistic, global circulation model show that the upper mesospheric jet is greatly overestimated and also the position with respect to latitude and height does not correspond to observations. Apart from that also the winter wind reversal in the mesopause region, evoked by breaking gravity waves (GWs), is located too low around 80km, but is observed to be usually around 100 km. These discrepancies are planned to be eliminated by modifying the distribution of GW amplitudes driving the GW

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39

Lowery, Kristen Mary. "Dynamic Analysis of an Inflatable Dam Subjected to a Flood." Thesis, Virginia Tech, 1997. http://hdl.handle.net/10919/35802.

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A dynamic simulation of the response of an inflatable dam subjected to a flood was carried out to determine the survivability envelope of the dam where it can operate without rupture, or overflow. A fully nonlinear free-surface flow was applied in two dimensions using a mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian formulation. <p> An ABAQUS finite element model was used to determine the dynamic structural response of the dam. The problem was solved in the time domain which allows the prediction of a number of transient phenomena such as the generation of upstream advancing waves, and dynamic structural collap

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40

Snelling, Matthew. "Breaking cycles of violence, one wave at a time : a formative evaluation of the Waves for Change Surf Therapy programme." Master's thesis, University of Cape Town, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/11427/20657.

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This dissertation was a formative evaluation of the Waves for Change Surf Therapy Programme, and included both a process evaluation and an outcome evaluation. Waves for Change used surfing as a means of engaging children and adolescents thought to be at risk of long-term social exclusion. This engagement was necessary in order to deliver a psychosocial curriculum. Waves for Change aimed to use this curriculum to enhance psychosocial wellbeing and reduce antisocial behaviour, and association with antisocial peers. Five evaluation questions were generated using programme documents and a rapid ev

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41

Johnson, Craig Michael. "The effect of artificial reef configuration on wave breaking intensity relating to recreational surfing conditions." Thesis, Stellenbosch : University of Stellenbosch, 2009. http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/2141.

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Thesis (MScEng (Civil Engineering))--University of Stellenbosch, 2009.<br>Multi purpose reefs are a relatively new concept that incorporate functionalities of beach stabilization, breakwater/seawall protection, biological enhancement and recreational amenity. Economic benefits increase their attractiveness. There is, however, some degree of uncertainty in design guidelines as to the predictability of each of these aspects. With regards to recreational amenity enhancement, one such uncertainty exists in the ability to predict the reef configuration required to give a certain degree of surf

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42

Chen, Yifan. "Gravity as a playground for supersymmetry breaking." Thesis, Sorbonne université, 2019. http://www.theses.fr/2019SORUS060.

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Une simple extension du modèle standard et de la relativité générale consiste à introduire une particule fondamentale de spin 3/2, car il s’agit de la seule pièce manquante entre les spin 0 et 2. En outre, nous ne connaissons qu’un seul candidat présentant un tel spin du point de vue de la théorie fondamentale, le gravitino, superpartenaire du graviton. Ainsi, l’existence d’un spin fondamental 3/2 pourrait également être une arme à feu de supersymétrie ainsi que la théorie des supercordes. L’axion est un autre candidat intéressant au-delà du modèle standard. Pour le problème d

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43

Koo, Bon Guk. "Numerical study of two-phase air-water interfacial flow: plunging wave breaking and vortex-interface interaction." Diss., University of Iowa, 2011. https://ir.uiowa.edu/etd/2731.

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Two different air-water interfacial flows are studied including plunging wave breaking and flow past a vertical surface-piercing circular cylinder using complementary CFDShip-Iowa version 6 including Cartesian grid solver and orthogonal curvilinear grid solver. The plunging wave-breaking process for impulsive flow over a bump in a shallow water flume has been simulated using the exact experimental initial and boundary conditions. The overall plunging wave breaking process is described with major wave breaking events identified: jet plunge, oblique splash and vertical jet. These major events re

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44

Banfi, Davide. "A field and laboratory study on the dynamic response of the Eddystone lighthouse to wave loading." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 2018. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/11607.

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Because little was known about how the masonry lighthouses constructed during the 19th century at exposed locations around the British Isles were responding to wave action, the dynamic response of the Eddystone lighthouse under wave impacts was investigated. Like other so called 'rock lighthouses', the Eddystone lighthouse was built on top of a steep reef at a site that is fully submerged at most states of the tide. Consequently, the structure is exposed to loading by unbroken, breaking and broken waves. When the breaking occurs, wave loading leads to complex phenomena that cannot be described

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45

Hood, L., S. Rossi, and M. Beulen. "Trends in lower stratospheric zonal winds, Rossby wave breaking behavior, and column ozone at northern midlatitudes." AMER GEOPHYSICAL UNION, 1999. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/624007.

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Statistical trend analyses of National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP) gradient zonal winds for the months of February and March demonstrate that the zonal mean meridional wind shear for these months in the midlatitude lower stratosphere has tended to become more anticyclonic with time over the period from 1979 to 1998. Such a tendency favors the increased occurrence at these latitudes of anticyclonic, poleward, Rossby wave breaking events that transport low potential vorticity (PV), ozone-poor air from the subtropical upper troposphere to the midlatitude lower stratosphere while f

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46

Yoo, Jeseon. "Nonlinear Bathymetry Inversion Based on Wave Property Estimation from Nearshore Video Imagery." Diss., Georgia Institute of Technology, 2007. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/19793.

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Video based remote sensing techniques are well suited to collect spatially resolved wave images in the surf zone with breaking waves and dynamic bathymetric changes. An advanced video-based depth inversion method is developed to remotely survey bathymetry in the surf zone. The present method involves image processing of original wave image sequences, wave property estimation based on linear feature extraction from the processed image sequences, and is combined with a nonlinear depth inversion model. The original wave image sequences are processed through video image frame differencing and dire

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47

Smith, Ernest Ray. "Longshore sediment transport rate calculated incorporating wave orbital velocity fluctuations." Texas A&M University, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/1969.1/4182.

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Laboratory experiments were performed to study and improve longshore sediment transport rate predictions. Measured total longshore transport in the laboratory was approximately three times greater for plunging breakers than spilling breakers. Three distinct zones of longshore transport were observed across the surf zone: the incipient breaker zone, inner surf zone, and swash zone. Transport at incipient breaking was influenced by breaker type; inner surf zone transport was dominated by wave height, independent of wave period; and swash zone transport was dependent on wave period. Selected pred

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48

Anim-Addo, Joan Lilian. "Breaking the silence : first-wave Anglophone African-Caribbean women novelists and dynamics of history, language and publication." Thesis, Goldsmiths College (University of London), 2001. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.368878.

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49

Jessup, Andrew Thomas. "Detection and characterization of deep water wave breaking using moderate incidence angle microwave backscatter from the sea surface." Online version, 1990. http://hdl.handle.net/1912/3149.

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50

Khyyer, Abbas. "Improved Particle Methods by Refined Differential Operator Models for Free-Surface Fluid Flows." 京都大学 (Kyoto University), 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/2433/66215.

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Kyoto University (京都大学)<br>0048<br>新制・課程博士<br>博士(工学)<br>甲第14147号<br>工博第2981号<br>新制||工||1442(附属図書館)<br>26453<br>UT51-2008-N464<br>京都大学大学院工学研究科都市環境工学専攻<br>(主査)教授後藤仁志, 教授細田尚, 准教授牛島省<br>学位規則第4条第1項該当

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