Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Beach erosion'

Beach shoreline retreat induced by coseismic subsidence in the Cascadia subduction zone is an important post-earthquake hazard. Sand on a beach acts as a buffer to wave attack, protecting dunes, bluffs and terraces. The loss of sand from a beach could promote critical erosion of the shoreline. This study was initiated in order to estimate the potential amount of post subsidence shoreline retreat on a regional scale in the Central Cascadia Margin. The study area is a 331 km stretch of coastline from Copalis, Washington to Florence, Oregon. Several erosion models were evaluated, and the Bruun model was selected as the most useful to model shoreline retreat on a regional scale in the Central Cascadia Margin. There are some factors that this model does not address, such as longshore transport of sediment and offshore bottom shape, but for this preliminary study it is useful for estimating regional retreat. The range of parameter input values for the Bruun model include: the depth of closure (h) range from 15 m to 20 m water depth; the cross-shore distance (L) range from 846 m to 5975 m; and the estimated subsidence amount (S) range from O m to 1.5 m. The minimum to maximum range of post-subsidence shoreline retreat is 142 to 531 m in the Columbia River cell, 56 to 128 m in the Cannon Beach cell, 38 to 149 m in the Tillamook cell, 25 to 91 m in the Pacific City cell, 11 to 126 m in the Lincoln City cell, 30 to 147 m in the Otter Rock cell, 0 to 165 m in the Newport cell, 0 to 76 m in the Waldport cell, and 0 m in the Winchester cell. Results of the study suggest that many of the beaches in the study area are at risk of beach and personal property loss. Beach communities could limit the amount of potential damage in these areas through coastal zone planning.

Coastal cliff erosion is a widespread problem that threatens property and infrastructure along many of the world’s coastlines. The management of this risk calls for robust quantification of cliff erosion rates, which are often difficult to obtain along rocky coasts. Quantification of sea-cliff rates of retreat on annual to decadal time scales has typically been limited to rapidly eroding soft rock coastlines. Rates of erosion used for shoreline management in the UK are generally based on analysis of historic maps and aerial photographs which, in rocky coast environments, does not wholly capture the detail and timing at which the processes operate and the failures occur across the cliff face. The first stage of this study uses airborne LiDAR (Light Detection and Ranging) data at nine sites around a rocky coastline (Cornwall, UK) to gain a quantitative understanding of cliff erosion where average recession rates are relatively low (c. 0.1 m yr-1). It was found that three-dimensional volumetric changes on the cliff face and linear rates of retreat can be reliably calculated from consecutive digital elevation models (DEMs) several years apart. Rates of erosion ranged between 0.03–0.3 m yr-1. The spatial variability in recession rates was considered in terms of the relationship with the varying boundary conditions (rock mass characteristics, cliff geometries, beach morphology) and forcing parameters (wave climate and wave exposure). Recession rates were statistically correlated with significant wave height (Hs), rock mass characteristics (GSI) and the ratio between the two (GSI/Hs). Although the rates derived using airborne LiDAR are comparable to the longer term rates of retreat, the detail of erosion to the cliff-face provides additional insight into the processes occurring in slowly eroding environments, which are vital for understanding the failure of harder rock coastlines. In addition to this, the importance of the wave climate and rainfall needs further attention on a more localised scale. Monthly cliff face volume changes, at two particularly vulnerable sites (Porthleven and Godrevy, Cornwall, UK), were detected using a Terrestrial Laser Scanner (TLS). Using these volumes alongside information on beach profile, beach- cliff junction elevation changes and nearshore hydrodynamics have allowed an insight into how the cliffs respond to seasonal fluctuations in wave climate and beach morphology. Monthly variability in beach morphology between the two sites over a one-year survey period i  indicated the influence that beach slope and the elevation of the beach-cliff junction have on the frequency of inundation and the power of wave-cliff impacts. Failure mechanisms between the two sites ranged from rotational sliding of superficial material to quarrying and block removal over the entire cliff elevation, according to the extent of wave-cliff interaction. This particular survey period highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to the variability in wave climate and beach morphology at two different locations in the south-west of the UK, where the vast majority (over 85% of the annual value) of cliff face erosion occurs during the winter when extreme storm waves prevail. Coastal cliff erosion from storm waves is observed worldwide but the processes are notoriously difficult to measure during extreme storm wave conditions when most erosion normally occurs, limiting our understanding of cliff processes. Over January-March 2014, during the largest Atlantic storms in at least 60 years with deep water significant wave heights of 6 – 8 m, cliff-top ground motions of a rocky cliff in the south-west of the UK (Porthleven, Cornwall) showed vertical ground displacements in excess of 50–100 μm; an order of magnitude larger than observations made previously. Repeat terrestrial laser scanner surveys, over a 2-week period encompassing the extreme storms, gave a cliff face volume loss 2 orders of magnitude larger than the long-term erosion rate. Cliff-top ground motions and erosion volumes were compared at two different locations, one a reflective beach with steeply shelving bathymetry (Porthleven, Cornwall) and the other an intermediate, low tide bar-rip beach with a wide coastal slope (Godrevy, Cornwall). Under similar wave conditions (6–8 m Hs and 15–20 s. Tp) the vertical ground motions were an order of magnitude greater at the cliffs fronted by steeply shelving bathymetry, where the breaking waves plunge right at the shoreline, with little prior dissipation, leading to large energetic runup impacting the cliff. These storm results imply that erosion of coastal cliffs exposed to extreme storm waves is highly episodic and that long-term rates of cliff erosion will depend on the frequency and severity of extreme storm wave impacts as well as the wave dissipation that occurs as a function of the nearshore bathymetry. Having recorded microseismic cliff-top motion on this scale for the first time and determined an effective method of monitoring the energetic wave impacts, this study emphasises how investigations of cliff behaviour during storms is not only obtainable, but paramount to understanding coastal evolution under extreme conditions.

Cross-shore bathymetric evolution in the nearshore zone often leads to threatening consequences such as beach erosion and shoreline retreat that concern the coastal community. A new, comprehensive cross-shore morphodynamic model was developed that can be used to describe and predict these phenomena. The study included both physical and numerical models that were designed to focus on the influence of sediment size characteristics on the cross-shore sediment transport process. For a profile equilibrium timescale, three types of beach profiles with different sediment mixtures were simulated in a small-scale, random-wave flume laboratory using erosive, storm, and accretive wave conditions. Dynamic relationships between the sediment grain sorting and beach profile changes were found to be evident as size-graded sediment fractions tended to relocate to different energetic zones along the cross-shore profiles. Existing phase-averaged wave and circulation models were utilized together with several new intra-wave modules for predicting important hydrodynamic parameters that were validated using the experimental data. A novel, multi-size sediment transport model was formulated to compute individual transport rates of size-graded sediment fractions while accounting for their interaction and non-linear size dependencies. The model was coupled with a new grain sorting model that resolves cross-shore grain sorting and vertical grain lamination. Compared to a traditional modeling approach, the new comprehensive model proved to offer superior modeling accuracy for both profile evolution and sediment grain size change. The use of the model is most advantageous for a condition with intensive grain sorting, a common scenario on a natural beach profile. Equilibrium beach profile is also better simulated by the model as size-graded fractions are predicted to relocate to different zones where they could withstand local hydrodynamics. Other new components that also help improve the modeling capability include the terms for wave-breaking and bed-slope effects, wave-crest sediment flux, and acceleration-induced bottom-shear stress. Besides superior profile modeling accuracy, sediment size characteristics and their spatial and temporal variations are also a useful set of information provided by the new model.

A spatial -temporal analysis was made by using cartographic material and Geographic Information Systems techniques. Here we compared the setting of the littoral line of a sector minimally affected by human occupation (Puémape–Puerto Chicama) with other sectors with moderate occupation (La Chira–Lurín) to strongly modified (Salaverry–Las Delicias and the Miraflores Bay). During the period 1961-2006 in the sector Puémape – Puerto Chicama, we identified the predominance of the advance or stability of the coastal line. The sector La Chira – Lurín presented a setting similar, with the tendency to stability and, the sectors strongly intervened showed a setting openly erosive. To the contrary as expected, the rising of sea level due to global warming doesn’t seem to be the principal cause of beach erosion in Perú. This is mainly due to the strong human intervention in the coast because at undisturbed sectors the predominance is stability or advance of the littoral line.
Mediante el empleo de material cartográfico y sistema de información geográfica (SIG), se realizó un análisis espacio-temporal, donde se comparó el comportamiento de la línea de litoral de un sector costero mínimamente afectado por la ocupación humana (Puémape–Puerto Chicama) con otros sectores costeros con ocupación moderada (La Chira–Lurín) a fuertemente modificada (Salaverry–Las Delicias y la bahía de Miraflores). Durante el período comprendido entre 1961 y 2006 para el sector Puémape–Puerto Chicama, se identificó el predominio del avance o estabilidad de la línea de costa. El sector La Chira–Lurín presentó un comportamiento similar, con tendencia a la estabilidad y los sectores fuertemente intervenidos presentaron un comportamiento netamente erosivo. Al contrario de lo esperado, la elevación del nivel del mar debido el calentamiento global no parece ser la causa principal de la erosión de playas en el Perú. Esta se debe principalmente a la fuerte intervención en costa ya que en sectores no alterados el predominio es de estabilidad o avance de la línea de litoral.

En Asie du Sud-Est, la dynamique côtière est régie par un équilibre spécial entre les moussons du nord-est et sud-ouest. Dans un contexte de l'élévation du niveau de la mer et d’un changement climatique avéré, les régimes de la mousson ont commencé à évoluer et à modifier les équilibres hydro-morpho-sédimentaires sensibles au niveau des espaces littoraux. Cette situation engendre des phénomènes d'érosion le long du littoral, notamment le littoral NE de la Malaisie. Cependant, les autorités publiques ont tenté d'atténuer les problèmes d'érosion par la construction d’ouvrages de défense côtière. Ces derniers peuvent affecter le régime des houles, la circulation hydrodynamique et le transport des sédiments, réduisant ainsi la capacité du rivage à répondre aux facteurs du forçage naturels (régime de la double saison de mousson) et à fragmenter l'espace côtier. La présente thèse explore les problèmes des phénomènes d'érosion, l'évolution du littoral et la morphodynamique des plages le long du rivage de Kuala Terengganu sur la côte Est de la Malaisie péninsulaire par rapport aux facteurs naturels et anthropiques. Cette étude a été menée en trois phases pour aborder les sujets suivants: i) évolution long terme du trait de côte du littoral NE de la Malaisie de 2006 à 2014; ii) évolution moyen terme du littoral (suivi mensuel) de juillet 2013 à juin 2015 et; iii) suivi court terme à travers des campagnes de mesures hautes fréquences (mesures topographiques, hydrodynamiques et de transport des sédiments) sur quelques sites du littoral NE de la Malaisie pendant les moussons nord-est et sud-ouest. Sur la base d'un modèle morphodynamique pour simuler les processus saisonniers, il est apparu que l'érosion domine la plupart des stations suivies sur le littoral pendant la période de la mousson du nord-est, tandis que l'accrétion ou la recouvrement sédimentaire des plages sont observés pendant les moussons du sud-ouest
In Southeast Asia, coastal dynamics are governed by a special equilibrium between northeast an southwest monsoons. In the context of sea-level rise and climate change, the monsoon regimes create an adaptation of the coastal dynamics. This situation gives rise to erosion phenomena along the coastline. However, public authorities have attempted to mitigate the problems of erosion by the construction of coastal defence structures. However, artificial structures can affect the wave regime, hydrodynamic circulation and sediment transport, thus reducing the ability of the shoreline to respond to natural forcing factors (such as with double monsoon season regimes) and also fragmenting the coastal space. The present thesis explores the problems of erosional phenomena, shoreline evolution and beach morphodynamics along the Kuala Terengganu shoreline on the East Coast of Peninsular Malaysia, with the aim of understanding the natural versus anthropogenic factors. This study was conducted in three phases to address the following topics: i) shoreline evolution from 2006 to 2014; ii) mid-term surveys (bi-monthly) involving data collection from July 2013 until June 2015 and; iii) short-term surveys (twice daily) with data collection (Topographic, hydrodyanamic and sediment transport measurments) during northeast and southwest monsoons. Based on a morphodynamic model for simulating seasonal processes, erosion is found to dominate most of the stations during northeast monsoons, while accretion or beach recovery is observed during southwest monsoons

O objetivo deste trabalho é avaliar as variações espaço-temporais da dinâmica morfo-sedimentar do sistema praial de Ilha Comprida-SP. Assim, para reconhecer os padrões de onda encontrados na região, resultados do modelo global de ondas WAVEWATCH III foram utilizados. Da mesma forma, levantamentos de campo periódicos foram realizados em cinco diferentes setores com obtenção de dados morfológicos e sedimentares. Simulações com o modelo numérico MIKE21 SW foram realizadas para reconhecer as tendências de transporte e distribuição de força de onda. Os resultados mostraram uma tendência geral de transporte para NE, com maiores valores para a região sul em relação a norte, com dois setores principais de divergência residual: centro-sul e norte. A divergência centro-sul apresenta um aumento e uma migração para sul nos meses mais energéticos, enquanto que a divergência norte apresenta uma manutenção espacial ao longo das estações. A distribuição de força de onda mostrou-se mais elevada nos setores centro-sul e norte, coincidindo com os pontos de divergência. Dados granulométricos mostraram baixa variabilidade temporal, mas possuem diferenças espaciais que refletem a hidrodinâmica local. Os dados volumétricos apresentam maiores valores médios nos setores centro-norte e menores no centro-sul e norte. De modo geral, os resultados mostram que ao longo de uma linha de costa exposta a um mesmo padrão de ondas, sua variabilidade é um reflexo de alterações hidrodinâmicas locais. Tais conclusões são importantes para o conhecimento do estado atual das praias e de sua evolução.
The aim of this study is to evaluate the spatial-time variations on the beach system of Ilha Comprida-SP. Therefore, the wave reanalysis database from the global wave generation model WAVEWATCH III was used to recognize the wave pattern for the region. Furthermore, periodic field works at five different sectors have been conducted to collect morphological and sedimentological data. The numerical model MIKE 21 SW has been applied to propagate waves onshore and recognize the transport tendency and the nearshore wave power distribution. Results show a transport trend to the NE, with the southern sector being larger than the northern sector in magnitude, with two main residual longshore drift divergence spots: in the central-southern and northern regions. Moreover, the central-southern divergence spot become larger and migrated to the south during the most energetic months, while the northern divergence spot kept its position throughout the year. Wave power results show two main areas with higher values that coincide with the observed longshore divergence spots. Sediment data presents low temporal variability, although spatial variations have been found reflecting the hydrodynamic conditions. The volumetric data shows largest values in the central-northern sector, being smaller in the central-southern and northern regions. In summary, the findings show that along this wide open stretch of coastline, exposed to the same offshore wave regime, its variability is a result of local hydrodynamic conditions. These results help in further understanding the island\'s long term evolution and current state of its beaches.

Entender os processos morfodinâmicos de uma determinada região costeira frente a ações naturais e antrópicas é de grande importância para o uso, manutenção e conservação destes ambientes. A Ponta da Praia (Santos, SP) vem sofrendo modificações significativas após a urbanização da Baixada Santista e a construção do Porto de Santos, e vem apresentando aceleração no processo de erosão, sendo necessária a sua manutenção. Para isso, o monitoramento e compreensão dos processos responsáveis pelo comportamento morfodinâmico da praia são de fundamental importância. Neste trabalho buscou-se a melhor compreensão dos processos erosivos da região e, para alcançar os objetivos foram feitos estudos, de forma contínua, da variabilidade da topografia praial em conjunto com a caracterização dos sedimentos superficiais no setor emerso, combinados com o monitoramento meteorológico e do regime de frentes frias da região. Os resultados fornecem informações sobre o comportamento morfo-sedimentar da praia, sua taxa de erosão e suas relações com as forçantes e manutenções realizadas durante o período de estudo, mostrando que mesmo em curto prazo a alimentação artificial não é eficaz.
To understand the morphodynamic processes in a given coastal region facing natural and human actions have great importance for the use, maintenance and conservation of these environments. The Ponta da Praia (Santos, SP) has undergone significant changes after urbanization of Santos and the construction of the Port of Santos, and has shown acceleration in the erosion process, so their maintenance is required. For this, the monitoring and understanding of the processes responsible for the behavior of morphodynamic beach are of fundamental importance. In this study we sought to better understand the erosion processes in the region and to achieve the objective studies were made continuously, of the variability of praial topography together with the characterization of surface sediments in the emerged sector, combined with meteorological monitoring and the system of cold fronts in the region. The results provide information about the morpho-sedimentary behavior of the beach, its rate of erosion and its relations with the forcings and maintenance performed during the study period, showing that even in a short term perspective, the artificial load isn\'t effective.

Wave energy has a great potential in many coastal areas thanks to a number of advantages: the abundant resource, the highest energy density of all renewables, the greater availability factors than e.g. wind or solar energy; and the low environmental and particularly visual impact. In addition, a novel advantage will be investigated in this work: the possibility of a synergetic use for carbon-free energy production and coastal protection. In this context, wave energy can contribute not only to decarbonising the energy supply and reducing greenhouse emissions, but also to mitigating coastal erosion. In effect, wave farms will be deployed nearshore to generate electricity from wave energy, and therefore the leeward coast will be exposed to a milder wave climate, which can potentially mitigate coastal erosion. This thesis aims to determine the effectiveness of wave farms for combating coastal erosion by means of a suite of state-of-the-art process-based numerical models that are applied in several case studies (Perranporth Beach,UK; and Xago Beach, Spain) and at different time scales (from the short-term to the long-term). A wave propagation model, SWAN, is used to establish the effects of the wave farm on the wave conditions. The outcomes of SWAN will be coupled to XBeach, a costal processes model that is applied to analyse the effects of the milder wave conditions on the coast. In addition to these models, empirical classifications and analytical solutions are used as well to characterise the alteration of the beach morphology due to the presence of a wave farm. The analysis of the wave farm impacts on the wave conditions and the beach morphology will be carried out through a set of ad hoc impact indicators. Parameters such as the reduction in the significant wave height, the performance of the wave farm, the effects on the seabed level and the erosion in the beach face area are defined to characterise these impacts. Moreover, the role played by the key design parameters of wave farms, e.g. farm-to-coast distance or layout, is also examined. The results from this analysis demonstrate that wave farms, in addition to their main purpose of generating carbon-free energy, are capable of reducing erosion at the coast. Storm-induced erosion is significantly reduced due to the presence of wave farms in the areas most at risk from this phenomenon. However, the effects of wave farms on the coast do not lend themselves to general statements, for they will depend on the wave farm design (WEC type, layout and farm-to-coast distance) and the characteristics of the area in question, as shown in this document for Perranporth and Xago. In summary, this synergy will improve the economic viability of wave farm projects through savings in conventional coastal defence measures, thereby fostering the development of this nascent renewable, reducing greenhouse gas emission and converging towards a more sustainable energy model. Thus, wave energy contributes to mitigating climate change by two means, one acting on the cause, the other on the effect: (i) by bringing down carbon emissions (cause) through its production of renewable energy, and (ii) by reducing coastal erosion (effect).

In this study, The Beach Dewatering System, a relatively recent technology to combat beach erosion, which is proposed as a practical alternative to more traditional shoreline stabilization methods, is investigated and an informative overview on the genesis, development and recent use of this technique is provided. On the basis of the link existing between the elevation of beach groundwater and erosional or accretionary trends at the beach face, a numerical model that simulates groundwater flow in a coastal aquifer under beach drainage is presented. In this model, the seaward boundary of the domain is considered to be tidally fluctuating in a large scale to represent the occurrence of seepage face significantly. The unsteady groundwater flow equation is solved numerically using the method of finite differences. The results clearly showed that the water table being lowered caused the reduction of the seepage face which is the main aim of Beach Dewatering projects. The positional design parameters, i.e. horizontal and vertical location of the drain, are also investigated by utilizing an efficiency index. It is observed that the system efficiency decreased as the drain is shifted landward. The results also indicated that, the efficiency slightly increased with the vertical drain elevation.

[ES] Las playas son espacios costeros que desarrollan numerosas funciones ambientales. Éstas proporcionan importantes beneficios a la sociedad y a las comunidades costeras, entre las que destacan la función ecológica, el suministro de protección para los territorios costeros y el hecho de que constituyen un recurso básico de la industria turística. De forma ligada al cambio climático, así como a acciones humanas que alteran el dinamismo natural de la costa, las playas están experimentando procesos erosivos cada vez más dañinos que afectan a su integridad física y al mantenimiento de sus funciones. La gestión de las playas en muchas ocasiones no se encuentra adaptada a las particularidades de los diferentes segmentos costeros. La toma de decisiones no se sustenta en información suficiente sobre las características, el dinamismo y el estado actual de las playas, dando lugar a soluciones cortoplacistas o ineficaces. Las características geomorfológicas son esenciales en el desarrollo de sus funciones al condicionar sus dimensiones físicas y su comportamiento frente a la acción del mar. Por ello, su caracterización de forma detallada y actualizada es necesaria para llevar a cabo acciones eficientes, permitiendo virar hacia una gestión costera más ecosistémica y sostenible. Las técnicas de teledetección presentan una gran capacidad para la adquisición de datos de la superficie terrestre. En concreto, los satélites Sentinel-2 y Landsat (5, 7 y 8) permiten disponer de forma gratuita imágenes de resolución media con cobertura mundial y alta frecuencia de revisitado. Los algoritmos de extracción de la línea de costa desarrollados recientemente por el Grupo de Cartografia GeoAmbiental y Teledetección (CGAT - UPV) permiten definir sobre estas imágenes la posición de la línea de costa, constituyendo datos potencialmente útiles para describir la morfología de las playas y su dinamismo. Universalizar su aplicación requiere su testeo y validación en diferentes tipos de costa. Para ello, el proceso de extracción ha sido adaptado para su explotación en entornos mareales, y las líneas de costa resultantes han sido evaluadas ante diferentes condiciones oceanográficas ofreciendo una precisión cercana a los 5 m RECM (raíz del error cuadrático medio). Teniendo en cuenta las necesidades de información para la gestión existentes, a partir de estas líneas de costa se propone derivar indicadores que permitan caracterizar la geomorfología de las playas y monitorizar sus cambios. Para ello, las metodologías propuestas aseguran una gestión eficiente de grandes volúmenes de líneas de costa, siendo así capaces de caracterizar las playas cubriendo grandes territorios y periodos de tiempo. Así se derivan el ancho de playa y el tamaño de los granos de sedimento como indicadores objetivos y fácilmente comprensibles de la geomorfología de la playa. La modelización espacio-temporal del estado y los cambios de la línea de costa y de la anchura posibilita monitorizar la respuesta de las playas a temporales y a actuaciones antrópicas, permitiendo analizar los cambios ocurridos cada pocos días hasta cubrir décadas. Su cobertura espacial junto a la integración con otras bases de datos cartográficas permite caracterizar la influencia de la geomorfología de la playa en el desempeño de sus funciones, permitiendo un análisis holístico de la costa a escala regional. Las metodologías desarrolladas en esta tesis y los indicadores derivados desde la teledetección brindan apoyo para dotar de criterios y priorizar las acciones de los gestores. Se contribuye así a llenar el espacio existente entre la disponibilidad de técnicas para obtener información remota y su aplicación en los procesos de toma de decisiones sobre la costa.
[CAT] Les platges són espais costaners que desenvolupen nombroses funcions ambientals. Aquestes proporcionen importants beneficis a la societat i comunitats costaneres, entre les quals destaquen la funció ecològica, el subministrament de protecció per als territoris costaners i el fet que constitueixen un recurs bàsic de la indústria turística. De forma lligada al canvi climàtic, així com a accions humanes que alteren el dinamisme natural de la costa, les platges estan experimentant processos erosius cada vegada més nocius que afecten la seua integritat física i al manteniment de les seues funcions. La gestió de les platges en moltes ocasions no es troba adaptada a les particularitats dels diferents segments costaners. La presa de decisions no es sustenta en informació suficient sobre les característiques, el dinamisme i l'estat actual de les platges, donant lloc a solucions curtterministes o ineficaces. Les característiques geomorfològiques són essencials en el desenvolupament de les seues funcions en condicionar les seues dimensions físiques i el seu comportament enfront de l'acció de la mar. Per això, la seua caracterització de manera detallada i actualitzada és necessària per a dur a terme accions eficients, permetent virar cap a una gestió costanera més ecosistèmica i sostenible. Les tècniques de teledetecció presenten una gran capacitat per a l'adquisició de dades de la superfície terrestre. En concret, els satèl·lits Sentinel-2 i Landsat (5, 7 i 8) permeten disposar de manera gratuïta d'imatges de resolució mitjana amb cobertura mundial i alta freqüència de captura d'informació a un mateix punt. Els algorismes d'extracció de la línia de costa desenvolupats recentment pel Grup de Cartografia Geo-Ambiental i Teledetecció (CGAT - UPV) permeten definir sobre aquestes imatges la posició de la línia de costa, constituint dades potencialment útils per descriure la morfologia de les platges i el seu dinamisme. Universalitzar la seua aplicació requereix el seu testatge i validació en diferents tipus de costa. Per a això, el procés d'extracció ha sigut adaptat per a la seua explotació en entorns mareals, i les línies de costa resultants han sigut avaluades davant diferents condicions oceanogràfiques oferint una precisió pròxima als 5 m RMSE (arrel de l'error quadràtic mitjà). Tenint en compte les necessitats d'informació per a la gestió existents, a partir d'aquestes línies de costa es proposa derivar indicadors que permeten caracteritzar la geomorfologia de les platges i monitorar els seus canvis. Per a això, les metodologies proposades asseguren una gestió eficient de grans volums de línies de costa, sent així capaces de caracteritzar les platges cobrint grans territoris i períodes de temps. Així es deriven l'ample de platja i la grandària dels grans de sediment com a indicadors objectius i fàcilment comprensibles de la geomorfologia de la platja. La modelització espai-temporal de l'estat i els canvis de la línia de costa i de l'amplària possibilita monitorar la resposta de les platges a temporals i a actuacions antròpiques, permetent analitzar els canvis ocorreguts cada pocs dies fins a cobrir dècades. La seua cobertura espacial al costat de la integració amb altres bases de dades cartogràfiques permet caracteritzar la influència de la geomorfologia de la platja en l'acompliment de les seues funcions, permetent una anàlisi holística de la costa a escala regional. Les metodologies desenvolupades en aquesta tesi i els indicadors derivats des de la teledetecció brinden suport per a dotar de criteris i prioritzar les accions dels gestors. Es contribueix així a omplir l'espai existent entre la disponibilitat de tècniques per a obtenir informació remota i la seua aplicació en els processos de presa de decisions sobre la costa.
[EN] Beaches are coastal spaces that perform numerous environmental functions. They provide important benefits to society and coastal communities, including the ecological function, the provision of protection for coastal territories, and constitute a basic resource for the tourism industry. Due to climate change and human actions that alter the natural dynamism of the coast, beaches are experiencing increasingly harmful erosive processes that affect their physical integrity and the maintenance of their ecological functions. Beach management is often not adapted to the particularities of the different coastal segments. Decision-making is not based on sufficient information about characteristics, dynamism, and current state of beaches, resulting in short or ineffective solutions. Geomorphological characteristics are essential in the development of beach functions as they condition their physical dimensions and their behavior in response to the action of the sea. Therefore, their detailed and updated characterization is necessary to carry out efficient actions, allowing a more ecosystemic and sustainable coastal management. Remote sensing techniques have a great capacity for acquiring data from the land surface. In particular, Sentinel-2 and Landsat (5, 7, and 8) satellites freely provide medium resolution images with global coverage and high-revisit frequency. The algorithms for extracting the water/land interface recently developed by the Geo-Environmental Cartography and Remote Sensing Group (CGAT - UPV) allow defining the position of the shoreline on these images, constituting potentially useful data to describe beach morphology and dynamics. Universalizing their application requires testing and validation at different coastal types. For this purpose, the extraction process has been adapted for exploitation in tidal environments, and the resulting shorelines have been assessed under different oceanographic conditions offering an accuracy close to 5 m RMSE (Root-Mean-Square Error). From these shorelines, and taking into account the existing information needs for management, it is proposed to derive indicators to characterize the geomorphology of the beaches and to monitor their changes. To this end, the proposed methodologies ensure the efficient management of large volumes of shorelines, being able to characterize the beaches along broad coastal segments and periods. Thus, beach width and sediment grain size are derived as objective and easily understandable indicators of the beach geomorphology. Spatial-temporal modeling of the state and changes of shoreline position and beach width makes it possible to monitor the response to storms and anthropogenic actions, allowing to analyze changes that occur every few days or over decades. The large spatial coverage together with the integration with other cartographic databases allows characterizing the influence of beach geomorphology in the performance of its functions, offering a holistic view of the coast from a regional scale. The methodologies developed in this thesis and the indicators derived from remote sensing provide support and criteria for prioritizing the actions of managers. This contributes to fill the gap between the availability of techniques to obtain remote information and its application in the coastal decision-making process.
This research integrates findings and results obtained within the framework of the contract FPU15/04501 granted to the author by the Spanish Ministry of Education, Culture, and Sports, which has allowed this doctoral thesis to become a reality. The research has been supported by the funds of the project RESETOCOAST, by the Ministry of Economy, Industry, and Competitiveness (chapters 2 to 5), and the project MONOBESAT PID2019-111435RB-I00 by the Ministry of Science, Innovation, and Universities (chapter 6). About my stay in Portugal, it was possible with the funds of the Erasmus+ program. The contribution of Ó. Ferreira was funded by EW-COAST (PTDC/CTA-OHR/28657/2017) and by FCT and Univ. Algarve through the grant UID/MAR/00350/2013, while S. Costas’ was funded by IF/01047/2014. The following institutions have provided free access to essential data for the development of the publications that constitute this thesis: ESA and USGS for the satellite imagery; Puertos del Estado, and the Portuguese Hydrographic Institute in collaboration with CIMA for supplying oceanographic data; Ministry MITECO and DGSCM for data regarding beach sedimentology and nourishments.
Cabezas Rabadán, C. (2021). Beach Morphology and its Dynamism from Remote Sensing for Coastal Management Support [Tesis doctoral]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/165076
TESIS