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Journal articles on the topic 'Beach slope'

Author: Grafiati

Published: 4 June 2021

Last updated: 1 February 2022

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1

NICHOLAS C. BROWN and TIFFANY ROBERTS BRIGGS. "SEDIMENTOLOGY OF BEACHES IN NORTHERN PALM BEACH COUNTY, FLORIDA, USA." William Morris Davis – Revista de Geomorfologia 1, no. 1 (August 13, 2020): 29–46. http://dx.doi.org/10.48025/issn2675-6900.v1n1.p29-46.2020.

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Beach nourishment is a common strategy for erosion mitigation that also increases coastal resilience to storm impacts, provides habitat, and supports the economy. Regulations often require that placed sediment closely match the native grain size distribution and composition, however characteristics can vary based on the borrow site. Certain sediment properties will also influence beach slope and other critical beach functions. This study evaluates the 3-dimensional sediment properties and beach morphology of nourished and non-nourished barrier island beaches in northern Palm Beach County, Flor

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2

OKAZAKI, Sei-ichi. "Beach Cycle and Beach-face Slope on Sandy Beaches." Kikan Chirigaku 50, no. 2 (1998): 119–25. http://dx.doi.org/10.5190/tga.50.119.

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3

Narayani, Subramanian, Sasidharan Venu, and Andrea Joan D'Silva. "Comparison of beach profiles conducive for turtle nesting in Andaman." Journal of Threatened Taxa 10, no. 10 (September 26, 2018): 12337–43. http://dx.doi.org/10.11609/jott.3373.10.10.12337-12343.

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The present study was undertaken to compare beach characteristics associated with turtle nesting in the Andaman group of islands. Karmatang, Kalipur, Ramnagar, Chidiyatapu, Carbyn’s Cove, and Wandoor were chosen as study sites. Beach slope, sand grain characteristics, and general vegetation patterns were analysed. The angle of inclination of the beach slope ranged from 2.06 to 8.3 degrees. Beaches with a higher angle had a comparatively higher number of nesting sites. The study shows that a single factor does not make a beach more conducive for nesting. Chidiyatapu has the widest beach but lac

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4

Clifton, A. Wayne, Richard T. Yoshida, and Roy W. Chursinoff. "Regina Beach — a town on a landslide." Canadian Geotechnical Journal 23, no. 1 (February 1, 1986): 60–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.1139/t86-007.

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The town of Regina Beach is constructed on landslides along the Last Mountain Lake valley, a glacial meltwater channel in south-central Saskatchewan, Canada. The landslides are retrogressive in nature and are seated in bentonitic clay shale of the Bearpaw Formation. A study was conducted at Regina Beach to determine the sensitivity of the slopes to changes in slope geometry as a result of regrading, or groundwater changes. Back-calculated shear strength was compared with values from the laboratory and from other landslides in Cretaceous bedrock shales. Modest changes in grading of the toe area

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5

McFall, Brian C. "The Relationship between Beach Grain Size and Intertidal Beach Face Slope." Journal of Coastal Research 35, no. 5 (June 12, 2019): 1080. http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/jcoastres-d-19-00004.1.

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6

Otoluwa, Zulkifli, Rignolda Djamaluddin, Royke M. Rampengan, Jane Mamuaya, Esry T. Opa, and Joudy RR Sangari. "MORFOMETRI GISIK KAWASAN PANTAI WISATA BAHARI SARIO KOTA MANADO." JURNAL PESISIR DAN LAUT TROPIS 9, no. 2 (June 30, 2021): 35. http://dx.doi.org/10.35800/jplt.9.2.2021.34851.

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Beach formation has an important role in protecting land from the action of the sea and it is useful for recreation, conservation and other uses. In “Wisata Bahari Sario” Kota Manado coastal area there is still a particular area of beach that is used for various purposes, so it is important to study its morphology. This research was conducted with the aim of describing morphology and analyzing oceanographic factors that affected the dynamic process of beach morphology. The results showed that the beach had an area of 422.69 m2, with the criteria for short slopes in the Northeast and long slope

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7

Endo, Masatoshi, A. Kobayash, T. Uda, M. Serizawa, and Y. Noshi. "MODEL FOR PREDICTING BEACH CHANGES USING CELLULAR AUTOMATON METHOD." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (October 11, 2012): 12. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.posters.12.

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Sand deposition on the gently-sloping revetment, the slope of which is steeper than the equilibrium slope of sand, is often observed when storm waves ran up the beach. Serizawa et al. (2006) have developed the BG model, in which the cross-shore sand transport depends on the balance between the equilibrium slope of sand and the local slope of the beach, and seaward sand transport will occur when the local slope of the beach or the structure is larger than the equilibrium slope. This implies that shoreward sand transport on the slope steeper than the equilibrium slope of sand cannot be predicted

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8

Leont’yev, I. O. "Storm-induced deformations of barred beach slope." Океанология 59, no. 1 (April 18, 2019): 125–32. http://dx.doi.org/10.31857/s0030-1574591125-132.

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It is shown that behavior of the multiple-bar system during a storm can be described in frameworks of the model assuming that bars move toward the sea with almost the same mean speed, while the over-bar depths increase in accordance with the local bed slope. Analysis of suspended-sediment balance over the bar crest leads to expression for the bar movement speed, which demonstrates very strong dependence on ratio of wave height to the over-bar depth. Using empirical criterion of bar activity the model suggested is capable assess the bar displacement during a storm action and predict the post-st

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9

Boon, John D., and Malcolm O. Green. "CARIBBEAN BEACH-FACE SLOPES AND BEACH EQUILIBRIUM PROFILES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (January 29, 1988): 120. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.120.

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Field measurements performed on two Caribbean islands revealed that two-dimensional nearshore bottom morphology is well represented by Dean's (1977) model of the beach equilibrium profile, h - A xm, where h is depth below mean water level at a distance x offshore and A is a scale factor. For the curvature, m, we obtained an average value of approximately m - 1/2 through least squares curve fitting of observed profile data, yielding a more concave and therefore steeper profile inshore than m — 2/3, the average previously reported by Dean for quartz sand beaches in the United States. Furthermore

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10

Viršilaitė, Kristina, and Donatas Pupienis. "Heavy Mineral Impact on Beach Slope Formation." Vilnius University Proceedings 10 (May 21, 2020): 70. http://dx.doi.org/10.15388/klimatokaita.2020.62.

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11

URBONIENĖ, Ramunė, Loreta KELPŠAITĖ, and Ingrida BORISENKO. "VEGETATION IMPACT ON THE DUNE STABILITY AND FORMATION ON THE LITHUANIAN COAST OF THE BALTIC SEA." JOURNAL OF ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING AND LANDSCAPE MANAGEMENT 23, no. 3 (September 29, 2015): 230–39. http://dx.doi.org/10.3846/16486897.2015.1009079.

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The aim of this study was to estimate vegetation coverage impact on the sandy beach and protective beach dune ridge (PBD) formation. Studies of the Lithuanian Baltic Sea coastal morphometric parameters and vegetation coverage projection were carried out from 1999 to 2011. In order to evaluate the dependence of the beach and the PBD morphometric parameters on the projection of vegetation coverage changes, correlation analyses were performed. A very strong link between vegetation projection coverage of the PBD top and beach width and incline of the eastern slope of PBD, and western slope vegetat

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12

Hsu, Tai-Wen, and Shan-Hwei Ou. "BEACH PROFILE CHARACTERISTICS DUE TO THE INCLINED WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (January 29, 1988): 121. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.121.

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The result of a theoretical approach shows that the beach profile characteristics is governed by a modified Iribarren number which includes the effects among the factors of initial beach slope, wave angle and wave steepness. A series of experiments are conducted in a three-dimensional movable bed model on the conditions of two different initial beach slopes, two incident wave angles as well as several erosive wave steepnesses. The relative importance of each factor involved in the parameter is discussed. It is shown that the modified Iribarren number is effective in the analysis, of beach prof

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13

Suzuki, Takayuki, and Yoshiaki Kuriyama. "SHORT-TERM SWASH ZONE BEACH PROFILE CHANGE MODEL FOCUSING ON BERM FORMATION AND EROSION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (January 30, 2011): 31. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.31.

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A short-term swash zone beach profile change model focusing on berm formation and erosion was proposed using a 2.5-year data set of beach profiles and offshore waves. The investigation area was set from the maximum wave run-up position to the shoreline position at the mean tide level. The model was applied for the calculation of three months beach profile change. The results revealed that the model well predicts the beach profile change including the berm formation and erosion in a qualitative sense. Also, the variation trend of the calculated beach slope at the shoreline position of the mean

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14

Yamashita, Kei, Taro Kakinuma, and Keisuke Nakayama. "SHOALING OF NONLINEAR INTERNAL WAVES ON A UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (December 15, 2012): 72. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.72.

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The internal waves in the two-layer systems have been numerically simulated by solving the set of nonlinear equations in consideration of both strong nonlinearity and strong dispersion of waves. After the comparison between the numerical results and the BO solitons, as well as the experimental data, the internal waves propagating over the uniformly sloping beach are simulated including the cases of the mild and long slopes. The internal waves show remarkable shoaling after the interface touches the critical level. In the lower layer, the horizontal velocity becomes larger than the local linear

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15

Vos, Kilian, Mitchell D. Harley, Kristen D. Splinter, Andrew Walker, and Ian L. Turner. "BEACH SLOPES FROM SATELLITE-DERIVED SHORELINES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36v (December 28, 2020): 36. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.sediment.36.

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The slope of the beach face is a critical parameter for coastal scientists and engineers studying sandy coastlines. However, despite its importance for coastal applications (engineering formulations, coastal flood modelling, swimming safety), it remains extremely difficult to obtain reliable estimates of the beachface slope over large spatial scales (hundreds to thousands of km of coastline). This presentation describes a new method to estimate the beach-face slope exclusively from space-borne observations: shoreline positions derived from publicly available optical imaging satellites and tide

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16

EHRENMARK, ULF TORSTEN. "Oblique wave incidence on a plane beach: the classical problem revisited." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 368 (August 10, 1998): 291–319. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112098001888.

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The non-hydrostatic description of three-dimensional waves incident over a plane beach at a long straight coastline is considered in terms of the inverse Kontorovich–Lebedev integral transform. This is seen as a natural extension to earlier work by the author where the two-dimensional (normal incidence) flow is expressed as an inverse Mellin transform, and similar simplifications in the description here are encountered. In particular computations are undertaken for a variety of beach slopes of the form α=π/2m where m is an integer and for a range of incidence angles. These computations have pr

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17

MITOURIDA, Naoto, Takayuki SUZUKI, and Hiroto HIGA. "APPLICATION OF FORESHORE BEACH PROFILE CHANGE MODEL CONSIDERING THE EFFECT OF BEACH SLOPE." Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering) 73, no. 2 (2017): I_577—I_582. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/kaigan.73.i_577.

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18

Schaffer, Hemming A., and Ib A. Svendsen. "SURF BEAT GENERATION ON A MILD-SLOPE BEACH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (January 29, 1988): 79. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.79.

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Two dimensional generation of surf beats by incident wave groups is examined theoretically. An inhomogeneous wave equation describes the amplitude of the surf beat wave. The forcing function is the modulation of the radiation stress. The short waves are amplitude modulated both outside and inside the surf zone causing the long wave generation to continue right to the shore line. Resonant generation as shallow water is approached is included. The analytical solution is evaluated numerically and shows a highly complicated amplitude variation of the surf beat depending on the parameters of the pr

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19

Madsen, A. J., and N. G. Plant. "Intertidal beach slope predictions compared to field data." Marine Geology 173, no. 1-4 (March 2001): 121–39. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0025-3227(00)00168-7.

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20

Fitton, T. G., A. G. Chryss, and S. N. Bhattacharya. "Tailings beach slope prediction: a new rheological method." International Journal of Mining, Reclamation and Environment 20, no. 3 (September 2006): 181–202. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/13895260500533030.

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21

Leont’yev, I. O. "Storm-Induced Deformations of a Barred Beach Slope." Oceanology 59, no. 1 (January 2019): 115–22. http://dx.doi.org/10.1134/s0001437019010089.

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22

Wang, Yan, and Zhi-li Zou. "Longshore currents over barred beach with mild slope." China Ocean Engineering 30, no. 2 (April 2016): 193–204. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s13344-016-0011-0.

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23

Izumiya, Takashi, and Masahiko Isobe. "BREAKING CRITERION ON NON-UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (January 29, 1986): 25. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.25.

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This paper deals with the breaker height on non-uniformly sloping beaches. A large number of experiments were carried out to obtain a breaking criterion on bar and step-type beaches. Based on the experimental data, a relationship among the breaker height, water depth, and wave period is investigated for various bottom configurations. As a result, the breaker height on non-uniformly sloping beaches is found to be well predicted by substituting an equivalent bottom slope in Goda's breaker index which has been obtained for uniformly sloping beaches. The equivalent bottom slope is defined as the m

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24

Sapsuha, Isman, Royke M. Rampengan, Esry T. Opa, Hermanto K. Manengkey, Wilmy K. Pelle, and Ferdinand F. Tilaar. "KEMIRINGAN LERENG DAN GRANULOMETRI SEDIMEN GISIK TANJUNG MERAH, BITUNG SULAWESI UTARA." JURNAL PESISIR DAN LAUT TROPIS 7, no. 2 (July 17, 2019): 90. http://dx.doi.org/10.35800/jplt.7.2.2019.24197.

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Beach slope and sediment granulometry is one of the importat aspect in coastal management. Beach offers a variety of functions and potential to be utilized. In the interests of phisical use in the beach, coastal structure in the form of groynes has been built. Actually, the groin has been used as a dock. This research was conducted with the aim of revealing the slope and granulometry sediment in Tanjung Merah beach. The results obtained, the beach slope is considered sloping and very sloping, the composition of the sediment consists mainly of medium sand, fine sand and very fine sand. Sediment

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25

Toyoshima, Osamu. "GENTLE SLOPE SEAWALLS COVERED WITH ARMOUR UNITS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (January 29, 1988): 147. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.147.

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Since the early 1960's, many seawalls against the beach erosion have been constructed in Japan, most of which were of vertical type. As a result, some of the seawalls even encouraged the beach erosion due to the reflected waves on the steep front of the seawalls. The author then proposed seawalls of new types with gentle front slope(l to 3) covered with armour units in 1981, and over one hundred fieldworks have successfully been carried out. In 1985, the author proposed reforming the existing vertical type seawalls into the gentler front slope (1 to 5 or 6) seawalls. The laboratory test on the

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26

Wang, Xiao Yan, Shi Wei Duan, Xian’e Xu, and Hao Liang Wang. "Analysis of Failure Mechanism for a Diversion Ditch in Lake Beach." Advanced Materials Research 415-417 (December 2011): 571–74. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.415-417.571.

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The paper discusses the contributing factors of dike failure occurred during construction of the diversion ditch. It is concluded that composition of ground and effect of the groundwater are physical element of slide, soil from ditch excavation placed on the top of flanking slopes for embankment and stress-relief at the foot of flanking slope by excavation are induced factors.

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27

Kaneko, Kenji, and Michio Omori. "Life history and utilization of the beach face slope by the sandy beach isopod Excirolana chiltoni in Sendai Bay, northern Japan." Crustacean Research 34 (2005): 27–39. http://dx.doi.org/10.18353/crustacea.34.0_27.

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28

Astjario, Prijantono, and Ai Yuningsih. "KARAKTERISTIK PANTAI KAWASAN PESISIR LARANTUKA DAN SEKITARNYA, P. FLORES TIMUR DAN KAWASAN PESISIR P. ADONARA BARAT." JURNAL GEOLOGI KELAUTAN 8, no. 2 (February 16, 2016): 75. http://dx.doi.org/10.32693/jgk.8.2.2010.188.

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Kawasan pantai Larantuka berada di pantai timur Pulau Flores dan kaki Gunungapi Ile Mandiri membentuk bentang alam pesisir bertebing curam dan landai. Kawasan pesisir dapat diklasifikasikan dalam tiga tipe pantai, yaitu tipe pantai bertebing berbatu, pantai berpasir dan pantai berbakau. Tipe pantai bertebing berbatu berada pada kaki gunungapi dibatasi oleh lava. Tipe pantai berpasir merupakan kawasan pantai dengan bentang alam landai sedangkan kawasan pantai berbakau tersebar cukup luas khususnya pada teluk dangkal.  Pulau Adonara didominasi oleh produk gunungapi tua yang terdiri dari la

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29

Angnuureng, Donatus Bapentire, Philip-Neri Jayson-Quashigah, Rafael Almar, Thomas Christian Stieglitz, Edward Jamal Anthony, Denis Worlanyo Aheto, and Kwasi Appeaning Addo. "Application of Shore-Based Video and Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (Drones): Complementary Tools for Beach Studies." Remote Sensing 12, no. 3 (January 26, 2020): 394. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/rs12030394.

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Video camera systems have been used over nearly three decades to monitor coastal dynamics. They facilitate a high-frequency analysis of spatiotemporal shoreline mobility. Video camera usage to measure beach intertidal profile evolution has not been standardized globally and the capacity to obtain accurate results requires authentication using various techniques. Applications are mostly site specific due to differences in installation. The present study examines the accuracy of intertidal topographic data derived from a video camera system compared to data acquired with unmanned aerial vehicle

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30

Noshi, Yasuhito, Takaaki Uda, Masumi Serizawa, Takayuki Kumada, and Akio Kobayashi. "MODEL FOR PREDICTING BATHYMETRIC AND GRAIN SIZE CHANGES BASED ON BAGNOLD’S CONCEPT AND EQUILIBRIUM SLOPE CORRESPONDING TO GRAIN SIZE COMPOSITION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (January 29, 2011): 15. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.15.

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A model for predicting bathymetric and grain size changes considering the equilibrium slopes corresponding to each grain size and its composition was incorporated into the BG model proposed by Serizawa et al. (2007). The model was applied to predict the beach changes at Kemigawa Beach. The cross-shore sorting of sand, in which the grain size gradually decreases with increasing depth, and the formation of a gradually changing longitudinal slope were accurately reproduced. The model was also applied to predict the selective accumulation of fine sand in a navigation channel after dredging and its

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31

Sorensen, R. M., and N. J. Beil. "PERCHED BEACH PROFILE RESPONSE TO WAVE ACTION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (January 29, 1988): 110. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.110.

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Wave tank experiments were conducted to investigate the response of a perched beach profile to storm wave attack. Irregular waves having a JONSWAP spectrum were used for all of the test runs. Beach profile erosion was measured initially for a 1:20 slope nourished profile without a toe structure in place. This established base test profiles for comparison with subsequent erosion profiles with a toe structure or sill in place. The subsequent tests with a sill were conducted with the sill placed at a range of depths along the nourished profile slope. Each of the test conditions was subjected to e

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32

Zhang, Ying, Ling Li, Dirk V. Erler, Isaac Santos, and David Lockington. "Effects of beach slope breaks on nearshore groundwater dynamics." Hydrological Processes 31, no. 14 (June 2017): 2530–40. http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/hyp.11196.

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33

Li, Allen Lunzhu. "Tailings Subaerial and Subaqueous Deposition and Beach Slope Modeling." Journal of Geotechnical and Geoenvironmental Engineering 141, no. 1 (January 2015): 04014089. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)gt.1943-5606.0001208.

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34

Choi, B. H., E. Pelinovsky, D. C. Kim, I. Didenkulova, and S. B. Woo. "Two- and three-dimensional computation of solitary wave runup on non-plane beach." Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 15, no. 3 (June 24, 2008): 489–502. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/npg-15-489-2008.

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Abstract. Solitary wave runup on a non-plane beach is studied analytically and numerically. For the theoretical approach, nonlinear shallow-water theory is applied to obtain the analytical solution for the simplified bottom geometry, such as an inclined channel whose cross-slope shape is parabolic. It generalizes Carrier-Greenspan approach for long wave runup on the inclined plane beach that is currently used now. For the numerical study, the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) system is applied to study soliton runup on an inclined beach and the detailed characteristics of the wave process

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35

Almar, Rafael, Rodrigo Cienfuegos, Eduardo Gonzalez, Patricio Catalán, Hervé Michallet, Philippe Bonneton, Bruno Castelle, and Leandro Suarez. "BARRED-BEACH MORPHOLOGICAL CONTROL ON INFRAGRAVITY MOTION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (October 25, 2012): 24. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.24.

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A conceptual analysis of the coupling between bars and infragravity waves is performed combining laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. Experiments are carried out in a wave flume with a barred profile. The Boussinesq fully-nonlinear model SERR1D is validated with the laboratory data and a sensitivity analysis is performed next to study the influence on the infragravity wave dynamics of bar amplitude and location, and swash zone slope. A novel technique of incident and reflected motions separation that conserves temporal characteristics is applied. We observe that changing bar characte

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36

Kantarzhi, Izmail, Sergii Kivva, and Natalia V. Shunko. "NUMERICAL STUDY OF WAVE RUN-UP AT PERMEABLE FIXED REVETMENT SLOPE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 32. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.structures.32.

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The numerical model of wave surface elevation and water filtration in the saturated-unsaturated porous medium is developed. The model uses to define the parameters of the wave run-up at the slope protected by the permeable fixed layer. The model shows the wave surface in the different times, including the wave run-up height at the slope and wave run-down. Also, the velocities in the upper protected layer as well in the soil body of the slope are defined. Model is verified with using of the published large-scale tests with the slopes protected by Elastocoast technology layers. The tests were ca

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37

Obare, Fridah D., Robert Chira, Dorcus Sigana, and Andrew Wamukota. "Biophysical factors influencing the choice of nesting sites by the green turtle (Chelonia mydas) on the Kenyan coast." Western Indian Ocean Journal of Marine Science 18, no. 2 (November 19, 2019): 45–55. http://dx.doi.org/10.4314/wiojms.v18i2.5.

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The green turtle (Chelonia mydas) is the most common sea turtle nesting along Kenya’s coastline. Varying biophysical factors influence choice of nesting sites where eggs are laid. This study was conducted between February and November 2016 and was designed to establish the relationship between numbers of C. mydas nests on the beach and biophysical variables such as vegetation cover, organic matter content (OMC), beach width, and beach slope. Multiple regression analysis was employed to assess the factors that contribute to the number of C. mydas nests on a beach. This analysis did not allow pr

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38

Lucas, Mark, Michael Salmon, Elizabeth Fritz, and Jeanette Wyneken. "Seafinding By Hatchling Sea Turtles: Role of Brightness, Silhouette and Beach Slope as Orientation Cues." Behaviour 122, no. 1-2 (1992): 56–77. http://dx.doi.org/10.1163/156853992x00309.

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AbstractUpon emerging from underground nests, sea turtle hatchlings immediately crawl toward the ocean. The primary cues used in orientation are visual but the nature of the visual cues was a matter of speculation. Hatchlings might also respond to secondary cues, such as beach slope. Experiments were carried out in an arena where specific visual and slope cues, simulating those present at nest sites, could be precisely controlled and manipulated. Subjects were green turtle (Chelonia mydas L.) and loggerhead (Caretta caretta L.) hatchlings. Both species oriented toward the more intensely illumi

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39

CHEN, YONGZE, and R. T. GUZA. "Resonant scattering of edge waves by longshore periodic topography: finite beach slope." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 387 (May 25, 1999): 255–69. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112099004528.

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The resonant scattering of low-mode progressive edge waves by small-amplitude longshore periodic depth perturbations superposed on a plane beach has recently been investigated using the shallow water equations (Chen & Guza 1998). Coupled evolution equations describing the variations of edge wave amplitudes over a finite-size patch of undulating bathymetry were developed. Here similar evolution equations are derived using the full linear equations, removing the shallow water restriction of small (2N + 1)θ, where N is the maximum mode number considered and θ is the unperturbed planar beach s

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40

Saville, Thorndike. "SAND TRANSFER, BEACH CONTROL, AND INLET IMPROVEMENTS, FIRE ISLAND INLET TO JONES BEACH, NEW YORK." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 7 (January 29, 2011): 44. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v7.44.

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Long Island, New York (Figure 1) extends for about 120 miles in a general east-west direction off the southern portions of the States of New York and Connecticut, from which it is separated by Long Island Sound. The western end of the island contains the Counties of Brooklyn and Queens which are part of New York City. To the east are the Counties of Nassau and Suffolk. The surface geology of Long Island is mostly of glacial origin. That portion of the south shore of Long Island with which this paper is concerned (Figure 2) consists of outwash plains of sand and gravel fringed by barrier beache

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41

Kai, Yen, Ren Rushu, and Wang Liang. "BEACH PROFILE CHANGE UNDER VARYING WAVE CLIMATES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (January 29, 1988): 114. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.114.

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In the present paper results of experimental study of two-dimensional transformation of sandy beach under varying wave climates are presented. The varying wave climates were composed of different systems of regular waves exerted one after another on the model beach. Through experiments it was found that sandy beach transformation within surf zone could be expressed by the changes of characteristic point A and characteristic slope tan 13, and that although the expression for beach erosion-accretion criteria is dimensionless, similitude scale effects should still be taken into consideration.

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42

Hammeken, Alejandro M., and Richard R. Simons. "NUMERICAL STUDY ON THE INFLUENCE OF INFILTRATION ON SWASH HYDRODYNAMICS AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE SWASH ZONE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 3. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.currents.3.

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Infiltration and exfiltration processes have a significant influence on the hydrodynamics of the swash zone. Such processes need to be taken into account in the modelling of cross-shore sediment transport and the prediction of beach profile evolution. This paper presents a numerical study of the swash hydrodynamics using a 2D Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes model, which was calibrated and validated against new experimental data. The model was used to simulate wave run-up from regular waves over permeable and impermeable fixed slopes. Swash flow velocities and water depth data w

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43

Sallenger, Asbury H., and Robert A. Holman. "Wave energy saturation on a natural beach of variable slope." Journal of Geophysical Research 90, no. C6 (1985): 11939. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/jc090ic06p11939.

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Yin, Jing, Zhi-li Zou, Ke-zhao Fang, and Yan-li Liu. "Qualitative Description of Swashing Motion States on Mild Beach Slope." China Ocean Engineering 33, no. 4 (July 9, 2019): 412–23. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s13344-019-0039-z.

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Pugliano, Giovanni, Umberto Robustelli, Diana Di Luccio, Luigi Mucerino, Guido Benassai, and Raffaele Montella. "Statistical Deviations in Shoreline Detection Obtained with Direct and Remote Observations." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7, no. 5 (May 11, 2019): 137. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse7050137.

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Remote video imagery is widely used for shoreline detection, which plays a fundamental role in geomorphological studies and in risk assessment, but, up to now, few measurements of accuracy have been undertaken. In this paper, the comparison of video-based and GPS-derived shoreline measurements was performed on a sandy micro-tidal beach located in Italy (central Tyrrhenian Sea). The GPS survey was performed using a single frequency, code, and carrier phase receiver as a rover. Raw measurements have been post-processed by using a carrier-based positioning algorithm. The comparison between video

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Didenkulova, I. "Nonlinear long-wave deformation and runup in a basin of varying depth." Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 16, no. 1 (January 29, 2009): 23–32. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/npg-16-23-2009.

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Abstract. Nonlinear transformation and runup of long waves of finite amplitude in a basin of variable depth is analyzed in the framework of 1-D nonlinear shallow-water theory. The basin depth is slowly varied far offshore and joins a plane beach near the shore. A small-amplitude linear sinusoidal incident wave is assumed. The wave dynamics far offshore can be described with the use of asymptotic methods based on two parameters: bottom slope and wave amplitude. An analytical solution allows the calculation of increasing wave height, steepness and spectral amplitudes during wave propagation from

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Miller, W. G., J. D. Scott, and D. C. Sego. "Flume deposition modeling of caustic and noncaustic oil sand tailings." Canadian Geotechnical Journal 46, no. 6 (June 2009): 679–93. http://dx.doi.org/10.1139/t09-014.

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As part of an overall study to evaluate the properties and processes influencing the rate and magnitude of consolidation for oil sand tailings produced using different extraction processes, laboratory flume deposition tests were carried out with the objective to hydraulically deposit oil sand tailings and compare the effects of caustic and noncaustic extraction processes on the nature of beach deposits in terms of geometry, grain-size distribution, and density. The characteristics of the beaches from this research study were compared with other flume deposition test results performed using a v

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Taaouati, Mohammed, Pietro Parisi, Giuseppe Passoni, Patricia Lopez-Garcia, Jeanette Romero-Cozar, Giorgio Anfuso, Juan Vidal, and Juan J. Muñoz-Perez. "Influence of a Reef Flat on Beach Profiles Along the Atlantic Coast of Morocco." Water 12, no. 3 (March 12, 2020): 790. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/w12030790.

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The North Atlantic coast of Morocco is characterised by a flat rocky outcrop in the south (Asilah Beach) and a sandy beach free of rocky outcrops in the north (Charf el-Akab). These natural beaches were monitored for a period of two years (April 2005–January 2007) and two different profiles (one for each beach) were analysed based on differences in the substrate. Topographic data were analysed using statistics and empirical orthogonal functions (EOFs) to determine beach slope and volumetric changes over time. Several morphologic phenomena were identified (accretion/erosion and seasonal tilting

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Giovani, Clara, Astrid Damayanti, and Dewi Susiloningtyas. "Coastal Typology of Landform in Pelabuhan Ratu Bay, Sukabumi Regency, Jawa Barat Province." E3S Web of Conferences 73 (2018): 04012. http://dx.doi.org/10.1051/e3sconf/20187304012.

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Sukabumi Regency has potential tourism sector which encourage the use of beach attractions in Pelabuhan Ratu Bay. The main tourist attraction is the hilly and plain panorama beach. This study is aimed to analyze landform and coastal typology to support coastal tourism development. This research provides overlay method of height and slope map, field observation, and verification. Identification of coastal typology was based on coastal materials (rock types and structures), relief (slopes and altitudes), and genesis. Comparative and descriptive spatial analysis were used as method of analysis. T

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Aryanto, Noor C. D., and Setyanto C. D. Pranoto. "COASTAL CHARACTERISTICS OF SOUTH SINGKEP AREA, RIAU ISLANDS PROVINCE." BULLETIN OF THE MARINE GEOLOGY 29, no. 1 (February 15, 2016): 43. http://dx.doi.org/10.32693/bomg.29.1.2014.64.

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Observations of coastal characteristics, such as coastal constituent lithology, oceanographic processes and the influence of human activities along the coastal area, are the factors that affect the coastal typology. The typology of coastal area can be divided into 3 types namely: (1) Sandy beaches, dominated by medium size quartz sand, gravelly sand and silt of alluvium deposits ; (2) Rocky beaches that belong to the Tanjung Buku Granite lithologic units and Persing metamorphic complex, its beach slope between 5Â° and 15Â°, and a fault structure encountered. The steep beach slopes (45Â°-50Â°)

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