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1

Schmidt, A. J. "Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century. By Philippe Perrot and Fashioned from Penury: Dress as Cultural Practice in Colonial Australia. By Margaret Maynard." Journal of Social History 29, no. 3 (1996): 691–92. http://dx.doi.org/10.1353/jsh/29.3.691.

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Martin, Phyllis M. "Contesting Clothes in Colonial Brazzaville." Journal of African History 35, no. 3 (1994): 401–26. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0021853700026773.

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The significance of dress in mediating social relations was deeply rooted in the Central African experience. In pre-colonial times, clothing, jewellery and insignia conveyed identity, status, values and a sense of occasion. Those with access to European trade cloth and second-hand clothes integrated them into their dress. Central Africans had a strong sense of the “politics of costume” long before new sources and ideas of clothing arrived with colonialism.Brazzaville, the capital of French Equatorial Africa, then became the scene of opportunity, experimentation and choice. Foreign workers from
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Cramer, Lorinda. "Making ‘everything they want but boots’: Clothing Children in Victoria, Australia, 1840–1870." Costume 51, no. 2 (2017): 190–209. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2017.0024.

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Dress was charged with meaning in the British colonies. Its visual cues made dress an obvious vehicle for formulating identity in material ways, and as a communicative device it was a means to measure migrants of unknown social origin — though not always with success. This article explores children's clothing in south-eastern Australia during the decades spanning the mid-nineteenth century, when the Port Phillip District transformed from a pastoral settlement into the thriving gold-rush colony of Victoria, attracting migrants from around the globe. In particular, it focuses on the material pra
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Johnston, Lucy. "Clothing in Context — Nineteenth-Century Dress and Textiles in the Thomas Hardy Archive." Costume 52, no. 2 (2018): 261–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2018.0071.

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This article will consider how dress, textiles, manuscripts and images in the Thomas Hardy Archive illuminate his writing and reveal the accuracy of his descriptions of clothing in novels including Far from the Madding Crowd and Tess of the D'Urbervilles. Rural clothing, fashionable styles, drawings and illustrations will shed new light on his writing through providing an insight into the people's dress he described so eloquently in his writing. The textiles and clothing in the Archive are also significant as nineteenth-century working-class dress is relatively rare. Everyday rural clothing do
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Orifjonova, Gulrano R. "PECULIARITIES OF SURKHANDARYA ETHNOCULTURAL CLOTHING." CURRENT RESEARCH JOURNAL OF HISTORY 03, no. 01 (2022): 21–25. http://dx.doi.org/10.37547/history-crjh-03-01-05.

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This article analyzes the peculiarities of ethnocultural costumes of Surkhandarya oasis. National dress is a manifestation of material culture. The bright colors of the nation, the beautiful art of local weavers developed under the influence of national traditions, the artistic ornaments on the fabrics are reflected in the dress, which is based on the unique centuries-old traditions of each region. Like other regions of Uzbekistan, in the late XIX and early XX centuries, the Uzbek national costume was almost formed in the Southern Surkhandarya oasis. It was revealed that women’s clothes are se
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Andersson, Eva I. "Swedish Burghers' Dress in the Seventeenth Century." Costume 51, no. 2 (2017): 171–89. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2017.0023.

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This article discusses dress, and the consumption of clothing among the burghers of seventeenth-century Stockholm. Clothing was one of the most important ways in which early modern people displayed and claimed their position in society. Through fine materials and fashionable cut, wealth and status, as well as the less tangible capital of knowledge of style and trends, could be expressed in a way that was visible to all. Clothing was therefore also a way that society was made comprehensible.
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Edwards, Tim. "Living dolls? The role of clothing and fashion in ‘sexualisation’." Sexualities 23, no. 5-6 (2018): 702–16. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/1363460718757951.

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This article considers the role that clothing and fashion have played, or continue to play, in ‘sexualisation’. It is pointed out that fashion, as in clothing, has often played a very small part in much wider discussions about ‘sexualisation’ much of which fails to problematise the meaning of the clothing concerned. The article thus considers what might constitute ‘sexualised’ clothing or fashion – whether this is simply baring of flesh, too ‘adult’, or somehow ‘pornographic’ in its derivations or connotations. In addition, fashion and dress have a long history of forming heated concern for fe
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Cova, Ioana, and Laura Toșan. "Challenges in Displaying Archaeological and Historic Vestments from the Collections of the National Museum of Transylvanian History." Acta Musei Napocensis. Historica, no. 57 (January 15, 2021): 275–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.54145/actamn.57.14.

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"The focus of this paper is represented by the display of female and male clothing pieces as well as luxurious ornaments, from the premodern and modern collections of The National History Museum of Transylvania, as exhibited in the temporary exhibition Cornucopia. Luxury in Transylvanian noble world.1 The aim is to underline the challenges the conservators had in mounting the items of dress, while considering the conservation restrictions (the mounting would not damage the object) as well as display requirements (an appropriate arranging of historic clothing). In order to properly display the
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Zhang, Yang, and Xuetao Wang. "A Comparative Study of Heilongjiang Minority Costumes and Customs (taking Oroqen and Manchu as examples)." Historical and social-educational ideas 13, no. 1 (2021): 79–92. http://dx.doi.org/10.17748/2075-9908-2021-13-1-79-92.

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National clothes and jewelry, one might say, are the symbol of a particular nation. Such factors of influence as, different living conditions, culture, history and others, lead to their great diversity. Each nation has its own unique clothing and jewelry, exploring them you can even deeper understand the national culture and see the unique cultural value. Using the analytical method, and taking as an example the small peoples of Heilunjiang, let us compare the national dress, jewelry and customs, study the clothing and jewelry of the Manchus and Orochon. Analyzing from the point of view of clo
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Unsworth, Rebecca. "Hands Deep in History: Pockets in Men and Women's Dress in Western Europe, c. 1480–1630." Costume 51, no. 2 (2017): 148–70. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2017.0022.

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Pockets are now standard and accepted aspects of clothing, but their presence in dress has not always been so assured. This article examines the use of pockets in western Europe from the late fifteenth to the early seventeenth centuries, demonstrating that pockets were adopted into clothing much earlier than has often been believed. It discusses the physical form of pockets in the dress of both genders and the types of garments into which they were inserted. It also explores the possible reasons for the uptake of pockets, the uses to which they were put and the sorts of objects which were kept
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Shan, Xiao Hong, Xiakeer Saitaer, Jin Lian Liu, and Aierxiding Ruozi. "A Study of Traditional Uyghur Headwear." Advanced Materials Research 627 (December 2012): 563–66. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.627.563.

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Uyghur is one of the oldest ethic groups which enjoy a long history. Uyghur people are noted for their diligence, enthusiasm, expert in singing and dancing. In the long historical development, Uyghur people have created profound and extensive art and culture. Gorgeous clothing is a necessary part of Uyghur dress culture. Dress and adornment in Uyghur is featured by clear style, diversified pattern and vivid color. Especially, with distinctive ethnic characteristics, the headwear is the product of Uyghur dress culture and is the most obvious attribute of Uyghur dress.
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Suyarkulova, Mohira. "Fashioning the nation: Gender and politics of dress in contemporary Kyrgyzstan." Nationalities Papers 44, no. 2 (2016): 247–65. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00905992.2016.1145200.

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This article investigates gendered nationalist ideologies and their attendant myths and narratives in present-day Kyrgyzstan through an investigation of clothing items and practices. Clothes “speak volumes,” revealing tensions between gendered narratives of nationhood and various interpretations of what “proper” Kyrgyz femininities and masculinities should be. Clothing thus becomes both a sign and a site of the politics of identity, inscribing power relations and individual strategies of Kyrgyz men and women onto their bodies. Individual clothing choices and strategies take place within the ge
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Wooten, Allyson Atwood. "Hauben, Waistcoats, and Gowns: The Invention of Moravian Identity through Dress in Salem, North Carolina, 1780–1830." Hiperboreea 21, no. 1 (2021): 1–33. http://dx.doi.org/10.5325/jmorahist.21.1.1.

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Abstract The study of changes in fashion adds an important dimension to the study of history as dress is one of the major forms of social communication. This is especially true of the eighteenth-century Moravian Church in which women (and to a lesser degree, men) adopted a distinctive style of dress in the 1730s that clearly identified them as members of the religious community. The original Moravian costume was adapted from the clothing of laborers and artisans in Central Europe. Especially important was the Haube or cap worn by Moravian women, which was tied with a colored ribbon indicating
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Ward, Alex. "Dress and National Identity: Women’s Clothing and the Celtic Revival." Costume 48, no. 2 (2014): 193–212. http://dx.doi.org/10.1179/0590887614z.00000000050.

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This paper will focus on an interesting diversion in the history of dress in Ireland: the story of clothing and the Irish cultural revival of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. It will endeavour to address the ideology of so-called Irish costume, and how it was intended to be a visual symbol of an Irish renaissance, one which would help in the effort to counter British influences and establish a strong cultural identity. Although Celtic Revival clothing was worn by both men and women as a signifier of cultural and political sympathies, this paper will look specifically at women
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15

Poiana, Peter. "Choses d'apparat: The poetics of dress in Michel Leiris's L'Afrique fantôme." International Journal of Francophone Studies 22, no. 3 (2019): 213–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.1386/ijfs_00002_1.

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Abstract Michel Leiris's treatment of clothing in L'Afrique fantôme, his diary account of his journey through Africa as part of an ethnographic expedition, demonstrates how dress habits constitute a value-laden system. Clothing belongs to a category of objects, which includes talismans and masks, that Leiris calls 'choses d'apparat' because of their tendency to acquire a ceremonial significance. As such, they mark indelibly the travellers' first impressions of the men and women they encounter. Leiris's substantial body of autobiographical writing shows that his interest in clothing is not limi
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16

Church, Donna. "Book Review: Fashion Fads through American History: Fitting Clothes into Context." Reference & User Services Quarterly 56, no. 3 (2017): 217. http://dx.doi.org/10.5860/rusq.56n3.217.

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Many works have explored the history of dress and its significance in larger cultural movements, such as the detailed overviews of clothing customs addressed in Clothing through American History edited by Amy T. Peterson and Amy T. Kellogg (Greenwood 2008) or the insightful works of Valerie Steele including the Berg Companion to Fashion (Oxford 2010) and Fifty Years of Fashion (Yale 2000). However, most of these works look at the seminal movements and most enduring fashion statements while this volume addresses the more ephemeral but still significant fads in fashion culture.
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Fülemile, Ágnes. "Social Change, Dress and Identity." Acta Ethnographica Hungarica 65, no. 1 (2020): 107–86. http://dx.doi.org/10.1556/022.2020.00007.

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The article, based on extensive ethnographic fieldwork, studies the process of the disintegration of the traditional system of peasant costume in the 20th century in Hungary in the backdrop of its socio-historic context. There is a focused attention on the period during socialism from the late 1940s to the end of the Kádár era, also called Gulyás communism. In the examined period, the wearing and abandonment of folk costume in local peasant communities was primarily characteristic of women and an important part of women’s competence and decision-making. There was an age group that experienced
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18

Welters, Linda, and Abby Lillethun. "Introduction to Focused Issue: History of Textiles and Fashion." Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 38, no. 4 (2020): 227–39. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0887302x20935637.

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The introduction to the focused issue draws attention to research in the history of textiles and fashion among International Textile and Apparel Association members. It is divided into three parts: the past, the present, and the future. In the first section, a review of the history of dress and textiles under the umbrella of “clothing and textiles” is provided. In the section on the present, a snapshot is given of the current situation now that dress and textile history has been accepted by a wide range of academic disciplines. Finally, suggestions are offered to move the historic area forward
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19

Yang, Rong, and Xiaoming Yang. "A Study on Cultural Characteristics of Taoist Clothing." Asian Social Science 16, no. 4 (2020): 70. http://dx.doi.org/10.5539/ass.v16n4p70.

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Dress and personal adornment of Taoism, also short for Taoist Clothing. Its refers to the type of clothing with ‘Tao’ as the core concept. Taoist clothing as a kind of religious symbolic clothing, it can be described as a typical carrier of Chinese traditional culture (especially the Han nationality), which contains Chinese traditional religion, philosophy, aesthetics and technology. By studying the history, form and cultural symbols of Taoist clothing has important significance for help us to deeply understand Chinese traditional costume culture and to discover the valuabl
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20

Almond, Kevin, and Elaine Evans. "A Regional Study of Women's Emotional Attachments to the Consumption and Making of Ordinary Clothing, Drawing on Archives in Leeds, West Yorkshire, 1939–1979." Costume 56, no. 1 (2022): 74–100. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0219.

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This research takes an interdisciplinary approach, investigating dress through the lens of regional social history by exploring women's emotional experiences related to making and consuming ordinary clothing in the period 1939–1979. A case study encouraged Yorkshire-based participants to reveal diverse stories associated with ordinary clothing. This brought the technical knowledge of making clothes and material-based research methodologies into dialogue with regional social history and helped us understand how ordinary people shaped the way women dressed. The research was funded by a grant fro
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Wurst, Karin A. "GENDER AND THE AESTHETICS OF DISPLAY: BAROQUE POETICS AND SARTORIAL LAW." Daphnis 29, no. 1-2 (2000): 159–75. http://dx.doi.org/10.1163/18796583-90000704.

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Seventeenth-century poetics makes heavy use of clothing metaphors to explain rhetorical devices. Of course it is not clothing per se, that ist found to be useful in illumnating the principle of poetic or decorative language but the concept of border, of hierarchically organized gradations of oranamentation. The similarity, the 'simile' between the discourse on ornamentation in rhetoric and the discourse on ornamentation in dress which has come to be associated with a gendered display of power is the focus of this article. We are accustomed to seeing vestimentary codes as highly gendered. When
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Osborne, Harvey. "Clothing and Landscape in Victorian England: working-class dress and rural life." Social History 43, no. 4 (2018): 539–41. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/03071022.2018.1513969.

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23

Jones, Jennifer M., Daniel Roche, and Jean Birrell. "The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the "ancien regime."." William and Mary Quarterly 53, no. 1 (1996): 188. http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/2946830.

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Storey, Matthew, and Lucy Worsley. "Queen Victoria: An Anatomy in Dress." Costume 53, no. 2 (2019): 256–79. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2019.0123.

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This object-based study of Victoria's surviving wardrobe uses dress as material evidence for the changes that took place to the Queen's physical body. Our exploration of the Queen's attitude towards clothing combined with her physical measurements as recorded in surviving items from her wardrobe allow us to nuance the conventional biographical narrative of a woman who consistently gained weight over her lifetime. We challenge the perception that she immediately became rotund after her husband's death as a consequence of grief and argue that her later-life mourning clothes were a distinctive, c
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Styles, John, and Daniel Roche. "The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the 'Ancien Regime'." Economic History Review 49, no. 2 (1996): 408. http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/2597950.

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Grela-Chen, Magdalena. "Antithesis versus Inspiration: Chinese Clothing in the Eyes of Western Theorists and Fashion Designers." Intercultural Relations 4, no. 2(8) (2021): 81–95. http://dx.doi.org/10.12797/rm.02.2020.08.05.

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Dress is a part of Chinese cultural heritage that has fascinated Western audiences for centuries. On the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of China, there are items related to textiles, embroideries and certain examples of Chinese clothing. This article analyses issues connected with the different uses of Chinese dress in the West. To fashion theorists such as Bell, Wilson, Sapir and Veblen, Chinese dress was the opposite of modern Western clothing and did not deserve to be called fashion. However, researchers such as Welters, Lillethun and Craik have opposed viewing fashion theory
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Wilcox, David. "The Clothing of a Regency Poet, Lord Byron (1788–1824): A Period of Exile 1816–1824." Costume 56, no. 2 (2022): 151–82. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0229.

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In 1816, following the failure of his marriage and the establishment of a legal separation, Lord Byron left London for continental Europe. He finally settled in Italy for the longest period (1817–1823) before involving himself in the Greek struggle for independence from Ottoman rule. He would die at Missolonghi in 1824, not from any battle wound, but from disease and debility. This article examines the constant traits in his habits of dress, his dandyism and a preoccupation with his personal military wardrobe. One of his surviving military jackets is presented in some detail and the contents o
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Clatworthy, Lee. "The Quintessential Englishman? Henry Temple's Town and Country Dress." Costume 43, no. 1 (2009): 55–65. http://dx.doi.org/10.1179/174963009x419728.

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This article examines some of the purchases of personal clothing by Henry Temple, first Viscount Palmerston (1676–1757) recorded in his surviving account books, and goes on to discuss whether he could be said to have had separate town and country wardrobes. A version of this paper was presented at the Costume Society Symposium: Town and Country Style in 2007 and is based on the author's research for a doctoral thesis on the subject of Henry Temple's personal papers at the Broadlands Estate.
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Shukla, Pravina. "The Future of Dress Scholarship: Sartorial Autobiographies and the Social History of Clothing." Dress 41, no. 1 (2015): 53–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.1179/0361211215z.00000000039.

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Radisavljevic, Katarina. "Churug fashion 1907-1937 or a report of a museum insider." Bulletin de l'Institut etnographique 70, no. 1 (2022): 101–26. http://dx.doi.org/10.2298/gei2201101r.

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The paper starts from the critique of the opinion that has developed in the 21st century within the framework of Serbian ethnological / anthropological science, and is related to the study and interpretation of traditional clothing of the rural population. Namely, the work of ethnologists / curators is criticized as the romantic relics in Serbian museology, who is consisted of the endless description of clothing and decorations on them. This paper has intention to point out some different ways of thinking on the Collections of traditional clothing in Serbia. The openness of anthropology to oth
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WILSON, CHRIS. "Dressing the Diaspora: Dress practices among East African Indians,circa1895–1939." Modern Asian Studies 53, no. 2 (2018): 660–89. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0026749x17000075.

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AbstractThis article analyses the dress practices of East African Indians from the late nineteenth century to the middle of the twentieth century, which have failed to attract much scholarly attention. It begins by examining the ways in which very material interactions with items of clothing, while separated from the body, were productive of identities and communities among Indian tailors, shoemakers, Dhobis, and others in East Africa. It then turns away from a specific focus on questions of identity to consider the ways in which dress was incorporated into the diasporic strategies of East Afr
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Sherazi, Syeda Abida Hussain, Wajid Awan, Maira Kazmi, Kanwal Mahmood, and Anees Mahmood Awan. "Perils of Tight Clothing; A Survey Report." International Islamic Medical Journal 3, no. 1 (2022): 6–15. http://dx.doi.org/10.33086/iimj.v3i1.1913.

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Background: Physical activity is defined as body movement produced by striated muscle that substantially increase utilization of energy, has numerous advantageous effect on the health. The level of physical activity influenced by different factors, include modifiable and non-modifiable factors. Non-modifiable factors include age, family history, sex and ethnicity. The modifiable factors include sedentary life style, lack of time, injury, body mass composition, socioeconomic level, leisure time and posture. Objective: To evaluate the effects of tight clothing on posture and physical activity, t
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Franklin, Maria. "Gender, Clothing Fasteners, and Dress Practices in Houston’s Freedmen’s Town, ca. 1880–1904." Historical Archaeology 54, no. 3 (2020): 556–80. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s41636-020-00250-8.

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WORTH, RACHEL. "Clothing the Landscape: Change and the Rural Vision in the Work of Thomas Hardy (1840–1928)." Rural History 24, no. 2 (2013): 199–215. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0956793313000083.

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Abstract:This article considers the ways in which clothing is represented in selected work of Thomas Hardy in the context of wider social and economic change in nineteenth-century English rural society. While taking into account the difficulties of using fictional literature in this way, I suggest that it is precisely Hardy's subjectivity that makes his observations so compelling and that his perception of change lies at the heart of his representation of dress. I endeavour to show how in his writing, the perceived tension between an unchanging, idealised, countryside increasingly subjected to
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Quillien, Louise. "Identity Through Appearance: Babylonian Priestly Clothing During the 1st Millennium BC." Journal of Ancient Near Eastern Religions 19, no. 1-2 (2019): 71–89. http://dx.doi.org/10.1163/15692124-12341305.

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Abstract Through a study of Babylonian priestly clothing, one can see the social role and attitudes of priests in Babylonian cities, not only when they worship deities, but also in their daily lives. Information on priests’ clothing is rare in cuneiform texts. A Hellenistic ritual from Uruk gives interesting insights that one can compare with the data from the daily records from the Neo-Babylonian period. It appears that outside the temple, the priests wore “civil” clothes. Religious garments were kept in particular rooms of the temples, and their terminology is archaic and similar to the garm
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Egreteau, Renaud. "Fashioning Parliament: The Politics of Dress in Myanmar’s Postcolonial Legislatures." Parliamentary Affairs 72, no. 3 (2018): 684–701. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/pa/gsy026.

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AbstractThis article discusses the significance of dress codes and clothing in postcolonial Myanmar’s successive legislatures. Burmese representatives have since the 1950s been strongly encouraged to wear dignified garb and non-Western dress when carrying out their duties in parliament. What does it tell us? The contribution of this study based on field interviews and the analysis of newspaper reports and parliamentary procedures, is threefold. It first sheds light on Myanmar’s understudied parliamentary history and some of its startling institutional continuities despite decades of military r
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Steele, Valerie, and Margaret Maynard. "Fashioned from Penury: Dress as Cultural Practice in Colonial Australia." American Historical Review 101, no. 2 (1996): 546. http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/2170534.

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Harvey, Karen. "Men of Parts: Masculine Embodiment and the Male Leg in Eighteenth-Century England." Journal of British Studies 54, no. 4 (2015): 797–821. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jbr.2015.117.

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AbstractThis essay explores changes in eighteenth-century male clothing in the context of the history of sexual difference, gender roles, and masculinity. The essay contributes to a history of dress by reconstructing a range of meanings and social practices through which men's clothing was understood by its consumers. Furthermore, critically engaging with work on the “great male renunciation,” the essay argues that the public authority that accrued to men through their clothing was based not on a new image of a rational disembodied man but instead on an emphasis on the male anatomy and masculi
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JACKSON, PHILIPPA. "Parading in public: patrician women and sumptuary law in Renaissance Siena." Urban History 37, no. 3 (2010): 452–63. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0963926810000568.

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ABSTRACT:In Renaissance Italy clothing, particularly of women, was strictly regulated; individuals were regularly denounced when walking through the city. Modesty was a virtue in a republican state and dress played a major part in urban identity, reflecting social values and those of the political regime. Sumptuary laws were a major mode of control, particularly of patrician women, whose dress reflected both their own and their family's wealth and status. Despite increased availability of luxurious fabrics encouraged by urban policies, legislation was used to prohibit new forms of dress and ra
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Ribeiro, Aileen. "Arnold Bennett, Edith Wharton and the 'Minotaur of Time'." Costume 44, no. 1 (2010): 89–95. http://dx.doi.org/10.1179/174963010x12662396505923.

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One of the most potent ways in which the past resonates in the present is via clothing; it is both so distant and yet so familiar to us, and so effective at recalling both a vanished period, and the intimacy of personal emotions. A comparison of the ways dress is used in Arnold Bennett's The Old Wives' Tale and Edith Wharton's The Age of Innocence is the focus of this essay.
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Ron, Zvi. "Stripes, Hats, and Fashion." Modern Judaism - A Journal of Jewish Ideas and Experience 40, no. 3 (2020): 312–26. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/mj/kjaa011.

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Abstract This article examines the relationship between fashion and Jewish clothing. Certain clothing elements that are today considered signifiers of Jewish people, even among non-Jews, did not begin as specifically Jewish clothing. They started as the fashion of the general society but were retained by the Jewish community even after the fashions changed in the general world. In this article, we trace the process by which three such elements became associated specifically with Jews and Jewish ritual practice: the striped tallit, Hasidic dress, and black hats. Black hats are the most recent e
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Livneh, Atar. "Garments of Shame, Garments of War: Clothing Imagery in 1 Maccabees 1:25-28, 14:9." Vetus Testamentum 69, no. 4-5 (2019): 670–81. http://dx.doi.org/10.1163/15685330-12341377.

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AbstractTwo poetic passages in 1 Maccabees depict historical circumstances via the use of apparel. 14:9 portrays the young men as wearing “glories and garments of war” as a marker of the peace and prosperity characterizing Simon’s reign. These contrast with the “shame” that shrouds the people following Antiochus Epiphanes’ desecration of the temple in 1:28. This paper explores the biblical background of the dress imagery, suggesting that the Maccabean author transformed the “robe of righteousness” in Isa 61:10 into “garments of war” on the basis of a gezerah shava with Isa 59:17. The biblical
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Olson, S. Douglas. "Dressing like the Great King: Amerindian Perspectives on Persian Fashion in Classical Athens." Polis: The Journal for Ancient Greek and Roman Political Thought 38, no. 1 (2021): 9–20. http://dx.doi.org/10.1163/20512996-12340306.

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Abstract This paper examines the phenomenon of individual Athenians adopting elements of Persian clothing, making use of exotic items such as gold and silver drinking vessels, and the like, by comparison to what I argue is a similar sort of contact and exchange involving the European fabric trade and evolving standards of dress and fashion in the Early Modern Atlantic. The ancient literary and archaeological sources discussed document the reaction of a relatively insignificant, marginal people (the Greeks) to the dress practices of a more powerful and arguably far more sophisticated imperial p
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Bennett, Laura, and Bradon Ellem. "In Women's Hands? A History of Clothing Trades Unionism in Australia." Labour History, no. 58 (1990): 116. http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/27508999.

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Johnston, Lucy. "Rachel Worth, Clothing and Landscape in Victorian England, Working-Class Dress and Rural Life." Costume 53, no. 1 (2019): 130–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2019.0103.

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Van Cleave, Kendra. "“The Desire to Banish Any Constraint in Clothing”." French Historical Studies 43, no. 2 (2020): 197–221. http://dx.doi.org/10.1215/00161071-8018469.

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Abstract Led by Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Enlightenment concerns about the negative consequences of luxury and artifice, as well as clothing's physical and moral effects, meant that by the late eighteenth century naturalism, simplicity, comfort, health, and morality had become the bywords of dress. In the newly invented French fashion press, editors adopted philosophes' arguments to resolve potential conflicts between consumption and Enlightenment ideas. However, they did so primarily with Ottoman-inspired French fashions rather than with the English styles that have thus far been the primary sch
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McLean, Ian. "Thinking Australia in Oceania: Old Metaphors in New Dress." Thesis Eleven 55, no. 1 (1998): 1–13. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0725513698055000002.

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Sprecher, Danielle. "Demob Suits: One Uniform for Another? Burtons and the Leeds Multiple Tailors' Production of Men's Demobilization Tailoring after the Second World War." Costume 54, no. 1 (2020): 108–30. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2020.0145.

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This article focuses on the key role played by the Leeds multiple tailors in the production of tailoring for British servicemen demobilized after the Second World War. The government provided each man demobilized with a full outfit of clothing, including underwear, shoes, hat, coat and tailored wool suit — the latter commonly described as a ‘demob’ suit. The article explores the significance of demob suits and how they were received by the men who had to wear them, highlighting men's concern about what they wore. The public rhetoric around the provision of demob suits will be considered within
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Waterhouse, Harriet. "A Fashionable Confinement: Whaleboned Stays and the Pregnant Woman." Costume 41, no. 1 (2007): 53–65. http://dx.doi.org/10.1179/174963007x182336.

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For around 400 years fashion and decency required a neatly boned body, yet at the same time many women spent much of their adult lives pregnant. How women were able to dress would affect their role in public society, yet letters and diaries show little reduction in their daily activities. Evidence of what was actually worn is scarce, perhaps because the dilemma was not so great as we imagine — whenever clothing is mentioned or depicted we see women wearing normal garments adapted with the addition of one or two items. Front-lacing stays could be adapted with stomachers, and some back-lacing on
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Lullo, Sheri A. "Trailing Locks and Flowing Robes: Dimensions of Beauty during China's Han dynasty (206 bc–ad 220)." Costume 53, no. 2 (2019): 231–55. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2019.0122.

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This inquiry explores images of women from mortuary contexts of China's Han dynasty (206 BC–AD 220). These early images are generally regarded as static illustrations that served to frame deceased individuals and define their social position and moral values. Recent research, however, has suggested that artisans were also interested in conveying images for visual pleasure, and were thus attentive to details, particularly of hairstyle and dress, that expressed ideals of female beauty. Close study of a hairstyle common to images of Han women, which comprised a bun with a single lock of hair trai
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