Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Colour fastness'

The main aim of this research was to investigate the possible uses of digital image scanning to assess the colour and colour fastness of textiles. This method has the potential to be a simpler alternative to camera based colour fastness assessment, for example'by the DigiEye system.. The scanning device used was an Epson Perfection 2400 Photo scanner, a mid-range quality device. The scanner was operated in· two different modes, 24 and 48 bits colour resolution and was calibrated by adjusting its setting, testing its repeatability for colour measurement and examining the spatial uniformity of response of the scanner. The results showed that the spatial uniformity of the 'scanner response was excellent for the majority of the scanning area but less uniform for the areas along its scanning borders. The repeatability of the scanner values for the colour measurement purposes was reasonable. The colour and colour fastness determination by the 24 and the 48 bits scanner modes indicated that there were no practical benefits to the use of the 48 bits. The colorimetric response of the scanner was characterised with the XYZ and the L*a*b* approaches in which the RGB responses of the scanner were transformed to the XYZ tristimulus values and to the L*a*b* values, respectively. It was shown that pre-treatment of the data by linearisation against either luminance or mean reflectance gave very good results with the XYZ approach to scanner. characterisation and that linearisation against L* gave excellent results for the L*a*b* approach to scanner characterisation. In the characterisation of the scanner two different techniques for parameter optimisation were applied, regression and iteration. The experiments show that the iteration techniques marginally improved the performance of the XYZ approach but it had no significant effect on the L*a*b* approach. The experiments conducted to find the best colour chart to use for colorimetric characterisation of the scanner showed that the TC chart which was made from an atlas of textile colour patches outperformed the CCDCchart which was made of 165 patches. of the ColorChecker DC. From the performance results of the colorimetric characterisation with different polynomials in the regression techniques it was found that using a second order polynomial to relate RGB to output colour parameters had the best generalisation and a good memorisation effect. It was concluded that for colour fastness assessment the scanner should be characterised with a regression technique fitting the coefficients of a second order polynomial us'ing the RGB to L*a*b* approach 'of colorimetric characterisation and theL* method for linearisation of the eeDe chart patches' RGB. The relative spectral power distribution (SPD) of the scanner lamp was also measured and it was concluded that part ofresidual inaccuracies of the scanner colour measurement could have arisen from the spiky shape ofthe SPD. The characterised scanner was used for instrumental colour fastness assessment of two sets of panels, one set of 60 staining and 15 colour change panels called the old set and a set of240 staining and 40 colour change panels made during the research to increase the range and uniformity ofthe colour distribution ofthe panels. An existing set of observer results were available for the old set and were obtained from 38 observers from 12 laboratories ofthe UK. The grades for the new set were obtained from 6 observers from two laboratories in the UK. The instrumental colour fastness grades of the sets were determined by the ISO, the GRS and the GRC formulae using a spectrophotometer, DigiEye system and the scanner. On the basis of the results of these devices in comparison to the average visual grading, it was c,oncluded that the ISO staining formula as well as the GRS and the GRC predict grades with smaller disagreement to the average of the visual grades than the inter observer variation. However, the ISO colour change formula determined grades with a higher level of disagreement to the average visual grade that was higher than the inter-observer variation. The scanner grading showed very good agreement to the· spectrophotometric and DigiEye grading with the ISO staining, the GRS and the GRC formulae but only moderate agreement with the ISO colour change formulae. The scanner repeatability for colour fastness assessment was determined and shown to be very good, however, as the frequency of assessment by the scanner in a research situation is not comparable to its industrial application, it was suggested to characterise the scanner once a day. The characterisation of the scanner with the research TC chart was shown to produce np significant improvement in the results that justify the difficulty of the preparation and maintemmce ofthis chart. A comparison was made between visual grades obtained from experienced and from inexperienced assessors of colour fastness. The results suggest that the grades given by the inexperienced are comparable to those assessed by the experienced assessors and the disagreements between the average grades are less than the experienced assessors inter-observer variation. However, as the experimental conditions for the set of the inexperienced assessors were the same but .were not the same for the member of the set of the experienced assessors it was suggested that further study is needed.

The issue of sustainability has pervaded many areas of technology in recent years, in response to concerns over the possible impact of such technologies on the environment. One such technology is the textile industry, which is at present heavily dependent upon the supply of petrochemicals. The petrochemical industry will at some point in the immediate future, have to tackle not only the price of oil but also the gradual decrease in its availability. The development of technologies that offer genuine solutions to these problems are of crucial importance. Azo dyes account for a major percentage of the dyes currently in use, with anthracene-9,IO-dione based dyes responsible for a sizeable proportion of the remaining market. Azo dyes have many excellent characteristics from a dyeing perspective, but their suspected toxicity following degradation may at some point in the future curtail their use. The synthesis of anthracene-9,10-dione based dyes requires multi-stage synthesis coupled with isomeric separation, and from a commercial viewpoint only blues and reds prove cost effective. By means of simple one-step synthetic modifications this study has shown, that modified naturally occurring anthracene-9,lO-dione based dyes show excellent technical performance in some cases on poly(lactic acid) (PLA) and poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET). The improvements made over their natural precursors include; higher dye exhaustion, improved colour strength, better saturation chroma (C*), and improvements in light fastness. The most effective derivatives are produced following alkyl substitution across adjacent hydroxyl groups, which yielded cyclic acetals and ethers with improved dyeing characteristics.

This research has investigated the modification of cotton fabric and pigment dyeing system in order to improve the colouration properties, such as rub fastness, wash fastness, colour strength and fabric handle of the textile material. It involved four different approaches based on pre-cationization of the fabric, incorporation of crosslinkers into the binder formulation, UVO pre-treatment of the fabric, and wet fluorocarbon treatment and dry plasma polymerisation treatments.It has been reported that the Matrix OSD pigment dyeing system offers benefits in terms of processing cost and environmental impact and from the initial studies it was apparent that while dry rub fastness, mechanical rigidity and washing performance were generally acceptable the wet rub fastness of the printed fabrics presented a technical challenge. Therefore in this study the colour wet rub fastness was regarded as the main performance indicator to be targeted and improved. Cationizing the cotton fabrics prior to pigment dyeing improved the wet rub fastness performance of the Matrix OSD dyeing system, while the other fastness properties were in general unchanged. Similarly crosslinking treatments enhanced the colour fastness performance, due to the improvement of the bonding between the binder and fabrics. The crosslinking/crease resist pre-treatment offers better performance than the combined application method in terms of improving the wet rub fastness. Surface modification of textile materials is able to modify the textile wettability, adhesion, dyeability and handle and therefore has been studied with a view to improving the durability of the surface pigment dyed coating. However in this study the benefits of a UV/Ozone (UVO) pre-treatment previously observed for other long liquor fabric dyeing studies of textiles was not observed and it was established that the pigment dyeing performance was reduced after the sensitised photo-oxidation treatment. The investigation demonstrated that the fluorocarbon treatments had a beneficial effect on colour wash fastness and wet rub fastness, while dry rub fastness was marginally reduced at higher fluorocarbon application levels. Different fluorocarbons were examined in this study, and the aftertreatment with Shield F-01 and Shield extender FCD offered the best results. A range of plasma pre-treatments prior to pigment dyeing were also examined but only a marginal benefit on the colour fastness properties and to some extent slightly decreased dry rub fastness was observed. In contrast the plasma after-treatments, using both argon (Ar) and nitrogen (N2) atmospheres, improved the fastness, particularly wet fastness, particularly when the binder heat curing process was before plasma after-treatment.

Anodic oxidation of a commercial dye, methylene blue (MB), from aqueous solutions using an electrochemical cell is reported. Data are provided on the effects of eight different types of supporting electrolytes, concentration of electrolytes, initial dye concentration, current and electrolytic time on the percentage removal of methylene blue. Anodic oxidation was found to be effective in achieving the removal of methylene blue from aqueous solutions. The optimised electrolytic conditions, for the removal of methylene blue (MB), were applied to the removal of azure A (AA), azure B (AB), azure C (AC), toluidine blue 0 (TBO), new methylene blue (NMB), dimethyl methylene blue (DMMB), thionine (TH), methylene green (MG), methyl violet (MV), Nile blue (NB), neutral red (NR), acridine orange (AO) and resorufin (RS) from aqueous solutions containing sodium chloride. Results indicated that between 84 to 100% of each dye of phenothiazine was removed during 60 minutes of electrolysis. The percentage removals for the phenothiazine dyes followed the following decreasing order: (MG ≈ MV) > (DMMB ≈ AA) > (AB ≈ AC ≈ NMB) > TBO > TH. However, the azine, acridine and oxazine dyes showed between 98 to 99% colour removal and the following decreasing order: NB ≈ NR > AO ≈ RS. Strongly electron withdrawing substituents such as nitro group or carbonyl group increases the degradation of the phenothiazine chromophore, whereas the electron donating groups such as amino and alkyl amino groups decrease the degradation. Anodic oxidation studies were extended to the destruction of eight permitted food colours, with azo and triarylmethane chromophore, from aqueous solution containing either sodium chloride or sodium sulphate as a supporting electrolyte. Again, sodium chloride was found to be the best supporting electrolyte and between 97 to 100% colour removal was achieved after 60 minutes of electrolysis. The percentage removal for the single azo based colourants followed the following increasing order: carmoisine > sunset yellow FCF > amaranth > ponceau 411 > tartrazine. However, the binary and ternary mixtures of food colour showed the following increasing order: blue > green > yellow food colours. The extractions and applications of 54 different types of natural dyes (53 from plants and one from animal origin) are evaluated using simple techniques. The extracted natural dyes were applied in dyeing three types of textile fabrics viz: a) paj silk, b) brushed cotton twill and c) crystallized shimmering satin. The effects of two eco-friendly mordants (alum and iron) on the dyeing process were compared with the dyeing process without mordants. The colour fastness to wash and light (both natural and artificial sun light) of these natural dyes were also assessed. The results showed that out of the 54 dyestuffs studied, 32 plants are potentially able to produce marketable natural dyes. These dyes produced good colour and met minimal performance standards for colour fastness to light and washing. The addition of mordants generally increased the fastness properties. Silk gave the best performance of dyeing uptake and stability. Cotton gave the poorest fastness properties. The overall results showed that, considering molecular associations, the fastness properties were of the order: anthraquinones and tannins> indigoid > flavones> flavonols > flavanols> carotenoids> anthocyanins. Anodic oxidation studies were extended to the destruction of ten natural dyes from aqueous solutions containing either sodium chloride or sodium sulphate as a supporting electrolyte. Anodic oxidation was effective in achieving the removal of green tea (35%), spinach (69%), Langdale yellow and turmeric (95%), carmine, saffron, henna (97%), beetroot, karkade and sumac (98%). However, TOC measurements and the UV analyses indicated that some organic intermediate compounds were formed in the presence of sodium chloride.

This study presents findings on the effect of domestic laundry detergents on the fastness to light of selected fibre reactive dyes applied to cotton. The study was carried out to elucidate the reasons for the accelerated colour loss of cotton garments washed under Australian domestic laundering conditions. Cotton fabric dyed with commonly used reactive dyes were laundered with water only, several domestic detergents and a laboratory formulated neutral detergent, and then exposed to light for two hours in the wet state. Quantities of detergent used were in accordance with the manufacturers recommendations. Exposures were repeated fifteen times equivalent to 30 hours exposure. Colour loss and colour difference were measured after 5, 10 and 15 wash cycles and 10, 20 and 30 hours exposure. When the fabric was exposed wet the colour faded more rapidly than when exposed dry to light. Detergents increased the colour loss even when the fabric was not exposed to light. The presence of an oxidizing bleach (sodium perborate) in the detergent increased colour loss during washing and wet exposure to light. Ultraviolet radiation from the light source, heat, moisture, alkali and oxidising bleach during exposure resulted in hydrolysis of the dye-fibre bond causing dye desorption during washing and rinsing. Water alone increased the fading of the dyes most likely due to presence of dissolved oxygen held within the fibre. The combination of ultraviolet radiation and oxidizing bleaches altered the chemistry of the dye and hence its shade. This was particularly evident on the black dye and one of the navy blue dyes.

V diplomové práci je prezentovaná literární rešerše na téma termochromní pigmenty a jejich aplikace v polymerních matricích. Výzkum byl zaměřen na hlubší pochopení termochromního efektu v pigmentech na bázi molekulárních komplexů. Termochromní pigmenty byly aplikovány do polyuretanového textilního zátěru a bylo zjištěno optimální nastavení podmínek zátěru. Textilní zátěry byly podrobeny termickým zkouškám a zároveň byla pozorována jejich stálobarevnost.

A utilização da quitosana como fixante de corantes tem se mostrado relevante, devido a sua estrutura química que é responsável pelas suas propriedades biodegradável e antibacteriana. O presente estudo teve como objetivo principal utilizar a quitosana para auxiliar na fixação de corantes pigmentados utilizados na estamparia digital. Também foi testada a carboximetilcelulose. A quitosana foi dissolvida em ácido acético 2% (v/v) nas concentrações de 5, 10, 15 e 22,2 g/L, enquanto a carboximetilcelulose foi dissolvida em água na concentração de 14,28 g/L Os polímeros foram aplicados como pré e pós tratamentos em malha de algodão por dois processos diferentes, via Foulard e por estamparia de quadros. A presença dos polímeros impregnados nas fibras de algodão foi avaliada por Microscopia Eletrônica de Varredura (MEV). As amostras de malha tratadas e não tratadas (controle) foram lavadas por 54 vezes simulando o uso de uma camiseta durante um ano e avaliadas em espectrofotômetro quanto à solidez da cor a lavagem utilizando os parâmetros escala cinza e sistema CIELAB E*. Os resultados obtidos mostraram que a utilização da quitosana e da carboximetilcelulose como pós-tratamento melhoraram o desempenho da solidez da cor a lavagem em 64% quando avaliada por CIELAB E* e 68% respectivamente quando avaliada por escala cinza. As amostras com aplicação de quitosana e carboximetilcelulose como pré-tratamentos apresentaram valores menores de solidez, quando comparadas às amostras pós-tratadas
The use of chitosan as binder has become relevant due to its chemical structure which is responsible for its biodegradable and antibacterial good. The present study is aimed to the use of chitosan to aid in the fixation of pigmented dyes used in digital printing. A carboxymethylcellulose was also tested. The chitosan was dissolved in 2% (v / v) acetic acid at the concentrations of 5, 10, 15 and 22.2 g / L, while a carboxymethylcellulose was dissolved in water at 14.28 g / L. applied as pre and post treatments in cotton mesh by two different processes, Foulard and silk-screen. The presence of polymers impregnated in the cotton fibers was evaluated by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). The treated and untreated mesh samples were washed 54 times simulating the use of a T-shirt for one year and evaluated in spectrophotometer for color fastness to wash, using the CIELAB E * system. The results showed that the use of chitosan and carboxymethylcellulose as a post-treatment improved the color wash performance in 64% when evaluated by CIELAB E * and 68% when evaluated by gray scale. The samples with application of chitosan and carboxymethylcellulose as pre-treatments presented lower values of color fastness, when compared to the post-treated samples

A presente pesquisa consiste em analisar a solidez da cor dos substratos têxteis à lavagem, perante a utilização de detergentes em pó comerciais, e comparar com a utilização do detergente pó padrão previsto na norma ABNT NBR ISO 105-C06: Têxteis Ensaios de solidez da cor parte C06: Solidez da cor à lavagem doméstica e comercial. Para que as variáveis do substrato têxtil: a) composição; b) preparação para o tingimento; c) processo de tingimento; d) intensidade da cor; e) classe de corante. E as do processo de lavagem: temperaturas não comprometessem a conclusão da pesquisa, contemplou-se o controle de todas elas, de forma que, a única variável foi o tipo de detergente em pó utilizado, para tanto, levou-se em consideração: a) utilizado substratos 100% algodão, 100% poliéster, 100% poliamida e 100% acrílico; b) preparação para garantir a homogeneidade das amostras; c) substratos tintos em cores claras, médias e escuras; d) utilizadas classes de corantes que possuem boa solidez à lavagem; e) lavagem a 40ºC e a 60ºC. Foi utilizado um ambiente integrado contemplando equipamentos de laboratório para preparação, tingimento das amostras e para os ensaios de solidez da cor à lavagem, segundo a norma técnica específica. Os corpos de prova, após o processo de lavagem, foram submetidos à avaliação da alteração da cor, de acordo com a norma ABNT NBR ISO 105-A05: Têxteis Ensaios de solidez da cor parte A05: Avaliação instrumental da alteração da cor para classificação na escala cinza. Os resultados dos ensaios apontaram que somente os substratos 100% algodão e 100% poliamida, cor clara, lavados com detergentes comerciais apresentam resultados divergentes dos lavados com detergente padrão. Já os demais substratos não apresentaram alterações significativas quando comparados aos resultados obtidos na lavagem com o detergente padrão, o que aponta que o tipo de detergente utilizado no ensaio não influencia no resultado
The present research consists in analyzing the fastness of colors in textile substrates to washing, in relation to the use of commercial powder detergents, and compare it with the use of the standard detergent powder according to ABNT NBR ISO 105-C06: Textiles - color fastness of C06: Color fastness to domestic and commercial washing. So that the variables of the textile substrate: a) composition; b) preparation for dyeing; c) dyeing process; d) color intensity; e) dye class. And the of washing process: temperature, did not compromise the conclusion of the research, it was contemplated the control of them all, so that the only variable was the type of detergent powder used, for that, it was taken into consideration: a) used 100% cotton, 100% polyester, 100% polyamide and 100% acrylic substrates, because they are the most consumed fibers in Brazil; b) preparation to guarantee the homogeneity of the samples; c) red substrates in light, medium and dark colors; d) classes of dyes, which have good wash fastness, were used; e) washing at 40 ° C and at 60 ° C. An integrated environment was used, contemplating laboratory equipment for preparation, dyeing of the samples and the tests of color fastness to the wash, according to the specific technical standard. After the washing process, the specimens were submitted to the color change evaluation according to ABNT NBR ISO 105-A05: Textiles - Color fastness tests part A05: Instrumental evaluation of the color changing for Classification on the gray scale. The results of the tests indicated that only the 100% cotton and 100% polyamide substrates light colored washed with commercial detergents showed divergent results from the standard detergent washings. However, on the other substrates, did not present significant alterations when compared to the substrates obtained in washing with standard detergent, which indicates that the type of Detergent used in the test does not influence the result

碩士
國立嘉義大學
應用化學系研究所
106
Bonding is the ability of atoms or molecules to interact with each other which can be classified into chemical bond and intermolecular force. By changeing the strength of the bonds can increase the substances applications. For example, Lawsone had the better color fastness and applicability than other natural dyes, because it forms the covalent bond with the animal fibers. Hair dyes can change the color of the hair to makes people more fashion. The hair dyes often contains hydrogen peroxide, ammonia and p-phenylenediamine. They are harmful to the human body so that is why the natural dyes are more importance. However, the natural dyes just adsorb to the surface of animal fibers so the color fastness is not good. It is hoped that the dyes can be combined with hair by covalent bond to improve the safety and color fastness. In this thesis, we use cysteine with a special functional group thiol (-SH) in the hair to bond to the natural dyes. However, the natursl products often contain hydroxyl (-OH) and amino groups (-NH2) which are nucleophilic group same as the thiol group. As a result, the natural dyes are modified with a thiol cross-linking reagent to achieve the ability to react with a thiol group. In the experiment, we use 6-maleimidohexanoic acid as a cross-linking reagent which activated by add dicyclohexylcarbodiimide and N-hydroxysuccimide to form the ester. By the coupling with diethylamine-rhodamine to form derivatives of diethylamine rhodamine (RHBMHA). We used ethanol as the solvent to dissolve RHBMHA and added PBS buffer to adjust the environment as the best condition for maleimide binding with thiol. After cleaning with ultrasonic vibration, the color were examined by optical microscopes. We found a significant color change when RHBMHA reacted with hair after thirty minutes. In order to check the binding strength of RHBMHA reacted with hair, we collected the solvent which washed with the hair and used TLC to detect the starting material. These results showed that hair and RHBMHA were more likely to bond with covalent bond in two hours which can be detect with IR spectroscopy. In this study, thiol cross-linking reagents were used to change the action of natural dyes and hair and provided a means of increasing the functionality of the compounds.

碩士
台南應用科技大學
生活服務產業系生活應用科學碩士班
104
The percentage in Taiwan of the hair dyeing population is rising in recently. People who dyed hair or not are both attention to the hair’s color after dying. The color and fastness of dyed hair are become an issue in hairdressing business. The main types of hair dyeing are permanent hair dye and semi-permanent hair dye. The color of the dyed hair can be changed by the increase of the water wash frequency. The purposes of the study are investigation the effect to two types of hair dyeing by different water wash Frequency. The directions of study are: 1. The different of fastness between permanent hair dye and semi-permanent hair dye by the water wash. 2. The effect of fastness by different hair dyeing colors. We expect that we can provide the hair dye suggestions based on the results of this study for the Hairdressers. A quasi-experimental design was adopted. Use permanent hair dye and semi-permanent hair dye, red with red, blue and green colors to make six kinds of hair bundle, and for the colorfastness to washing. Use deal the experiment data with the CIE L*a*b* color space system to compare the variety of fastness and research the meaning of the variety. The result of the study show that: 1.In permanent hair dye bundles after water wash, the rate of pigment remail and color vakue ΔE show that blue bundles>>red bundles>>green bundles in pigment losing. 2. In semi-permanent hair dye bundles after water wash, the rate of pigment remail and color vakue ΔE show that blue bundles> green bundles >red bundles in pigment losing. 3. Compare the fade degree in permanent hair dye and semi-permanent hair dye. The rate of pigment remail show that in blue and green color, permanent hair dye is higher than semi-permanent hair dye.the red bundles has no obvious difference. And olor vakue ΔE show that all bundles are permanent hair dye is higher than semi-permanent hair dye.

碩士
中國文化大學
紡織產業碩士專班
103
Since the fluorescent color Photo-Stability is poor than the non-fluorescent, after which simulate sunlight exposure, dyeing base damage and shade change situations in this article will be quantified and provide Related color measurement data, the impact of the rating, as well as subsequent adjustments related to the use of a dye or UV absorber formulation improvements, provide reference. We use common market for PET and Nylon material, in three basic colors as fluorescent dye, using AATCC 16 color fastness standards for testing, and then use Datacolor spectrometer, the reflection rate before and after the light fastness and CIE ΔE value were compared. There were no fluorescent and fluorescent colors, fluorescent colors light fastness have significantly poorer than those without fluorescent color, which is due to fluorescent UV light is absorbed to increase its reflectivity, and its brightness will generally rise , but by excessive exposure to UV light, the original trans lumiphore will be converted into the cis and lose its ability to photochromic, so after sample exposure significantly compared with that before fading scenario. In the fluorescent color which, since the Photo-isomerization factors such fluorescent whitening agents absorb ultraviolet light emitted conversion 300-400 nm 420-450 nm long wavelength of visible light (blue group purple zone), which firefly optical brighteners in an aqueous solution of exposure to sunlight, or worse still, under ultraviolet light, the fluorescence of a trans will turn into non-fluorescence of cis-structure.

碩士
國立臺南藝術大學
博物館學與古物維護研究所
103
Light is a common cause of damage to collections. Paper, textile, binding media , dyes and pigments are particularly sensitive to light. Most of us recognize fading as a form of light damage, but this is only a superficial indication of deterioration that will extends to the physical and chemical structure of collections eventually. Most important, light provides energy to fuel the chemical reactions that produce deterioration. Light damage is cumulative and irreversible. Incandescent lamps have been phased out since 2010 in Taiwan and LED was the latest cutting edge lighting technology, considered as an alternative to traditional light sources. LED waves have swept the museum circle. There are some advantages of LED lighting, such as energy efficiency, ecologically friendly, response fast, small size, low quantity of heat and longer service lifetime. The limit of current technology restricts LED from so-claimed full performance concerning global illumination, color rendering and reliability. Therefore it is necessary to evaluate the use of LED lighting in museums. Blue wool standards were exposed to four types of white LED lamps under different color temperatures. Color changes were measured at each 15,000lx-hr interval twenty times. The accumulated exposed time were 300,000lx-hr. Test results showed that all LED lighting cause fading on blue wool standard grade 1 and the lower color temperature of light the fading rate was faster . The test result is different from former literatures may attributed to commercial LED lamps. The commercial lamps were made by different production and packaging processes based on cost and market trend considerations, such instability will be a potential damage to cultural relics. Color temperature as an indicator of light sources needs more evaluation analysis to testify its performance. It is important to develop a suitable illuminating system light sources in order to put white LED lamps into practical use as a museum light sources.

碩士
國立臺北科技大學
化學工程與生物科技系化學工程碩士班
106
In this study, the preparation of a mordant chelating natural hair dye that demonstrated color fastness on hairs was considered as being environmentally friendly. Laccase was applied to catalyze three plant phenolic acids which included ferulic acid, syringic acid and gallic acid as dyeing agents. In order to explore the effects of different environments on laccase activity and hair dyeing effectiveness, the study was focused on the variation of experimental factors, including different ratios of three phenolic acid, pH, temperature, and time. Finally, we analyzed how to achieve the best dyeing conditions by obtaining the maximum color difference of △E*on hairs. These experiments were designed to use ultrasonic mixing method to synthesize the dye solutions, the results showed a contribution to shorten the 50% color generation time of them. Even so, the processing time of hairs with dyeing solution still needed to be completed in 24 hours, and then the reddish-brown hairs were reached. To further shorten the whole process time of hair dyeing, the metal mordants were added acting as a linking agent between the dyes and hairs in a chelating manner that enhance the color fixing strength on hairs. In this study the 〖Fe〗^(3+) ion was used as the metal mordant dye to make the hair colors more diverse. According to the solution properties of different metal-salt compounds, these experiments were focused on the variation of the metal ion concentration and pH value at the appropriate temperature, and then the final target Lab change of hair color difference. In conclusion, experimental results showed that the hair dyeing time assisted with mordant 〖Fe〗^(3+) would reach the target Lab change within 3 hours. As compared with laccase-preformed natural phenolic acid dye, the whole processing time of hair dyeing assisted with mordant 〖Fe〗^(3+)was shortened by 91.7%. After that, the color fastness on dyed hairs was tested by UV light exposure and soap-washing experiments, respectively. For the results of UV light exposure tests, the color difference of the phenolic acid dyed-hairs by UV light discoloration was found above 5 and that of the mordant-assisting dyed-hairs maintained below 4. In addition, the standard deviation in K/S value of the phenolic acid dyed-hairs is up to 1.269, while that of the mordant-assisting dyed-hairs is below 0.163. The DEcmc value of both phenolic acid and mordant-assisting dye-hairs showed a positive increase after five cycle times of soap-washing. However, according to the experimental results, the average K/S value of the phenolic acid dyed-hairs was reduced by 47.55% and that of the mordant-assisting dyed-hairs was reduced by 18.53% after the fifth washing cycle. In summary, the combination of phenolic acid dye and the metal mordant dye is effective to shorten the whole dyeing time and increase the color fastness on hairs. Ferric chloride was found to be the most suitable metal mordant for hair dyes of the target color and strength.

碩士
中國文化大學
紡織產業碩士專班
106
In order to emphasis on health care, the functional sportswere had been gradually increased. The many professional sports demand high-intensity and high-stretch for sportswere, the nylon 6.6 fabrics contained high amounts of elastic fibers were needed. When high elastic nylon 6.6 dyed with fluorescent acid dye mixed with other acid dye, the uneven surface, color difference and lower colorfastness with be easy to appear. In this experiment, 11% and 25% of the nylon fabrics with different content of elastic fibers were used and dyed, and the fluorescent red acid dyes were mixed with other acid dyes for this. The fluorescent red mixed with other acid dye was used to study the influence of leveling and fixing agents on the color strength(K/S), levelness, colorfastness colordifference(ΔE) and photorating phenomenon of dyed high elastic nylon 6.6 fabrics. From results shown the use of anionic leveling agent can achieve the best leveling effect of fluorescent red acid dyes, and with anionic fixing agent can effectively improve the washing, water and sweat resistance of fabrics. Additionally, if used in conjunction with UV absorbers will significantly increase the light fastness, can indeed meet the client's requirements.

Dissertação de mestrado em Biologia Molecular, Biotecnologia e Bioempreendedorismo em Plantas
Na Indústria Têxtil, os corantes sintéticos são maioritariamente usados devido principalmente ao seu baixo custo e à possibilidade de se obter uma vasta gama de cores. No entanto, o uso destes corantes na indústria leva a problemas ambientais, pela toxicidade dos efluentes resultantes do tingimento têxtil. De forma a contrariar esta problemática, a biocoloração foi introduzida como substituinte ecológico. No presente trabalho foi realizada a coloração de substratos têxteis com recurso a produtos naturais como plantas e cogumelos, obtendo-se cores diferentes consoante o produto, o auxiliar e o tipo de malha utilizada. As plantas S. Roberto, Alcachofra e Tomilho Bela Luz revelaram-se as mais promissoras em termos de coloração, assim como o cogumelo P. tinctorius. A solidez da cor é também um fator preponderante no contexto do tingimento têxtil, tendo-se realizado ensaios de avaliação da resistência da cor na malha face à luz solar e à lavagem com detergente. Através da determinação da diferença de cor (ΔE) e da força colorística (K/S) conclui-se que a planta Tomilho Bela Luz possibilitou não só uma maior manutenção da cor e por isso maior solidez, como também uma elevada força colorística. Nas malhas coloridas com P. tinctorius, apesar das cores obtidas terem sido promissoras e com força colorística elevada (no caso da lã), observaram-se diferenças consideráveis nas mesmas, principalmente após a lavagem com detergente. Com o objetivo da otimização do processo de coloração têxtil foram realizados ensaios de re-tingimento, que se revelaram promissores. Tendo em vista o caráter ecológico em que assenta este projeto, foi igualmente estudada a utilização de compostos naturais de plantas com ação mordente, como a Tanchagem, e a coloração têxtil com resíduos alimentares, como a casca de noz, com resultados satisfatórios. Por fim, foi avaliada a funcionalidade dos têxteis em termos de propriedades antibacterianas, tendo as malhas coloridas com Nogueira e Alcachofra revelado atividade contra o crescimento de S. aureus, assim como as de algodão cationizado tingido com P. tinctorius.
In textile industry, synthetic dyes are mostly used due to their low cost and the possibility of having a large spectrum of colors. However, the use of these dyes in industry leads to environmental issues, due to the toxicity of the effluents from textile dyeing. To overcome this problem, biocoloration was introduced as an ecologic alternative. In the present project, the coloration of textile substrates was performed using natural products such as plants and mushrooms, in order to obtain different colors according to the product, the auxiliary and the type of knit used. The plants S. Roberto, Alcachofra and Tomilho Bela Luz were the most satisfactory in terms of coloration, as well as the mushroom P. tinctorius. The color fastness is also an essential parameter in terms of textile dyeing, and was also evaluated after exposure to sunlight and to washing process with detergent. Through the determination of color difference (ΔE) and color strength (K/S) it’s possible to conclude that textiles colored with Tomilho Bela Luz had the best results, regarding the color resistance and the color strength. Concerning the mushroom P. tinctorius, the textiles had intense colors and the values of K/S were high (in wool), however it was observed considerable differences, mainly after washing process with detergent. In order to optimize the textile coloration process, it was performed a trial with two consequent coloration processes, and the results were promising. Considering the ecological aim of this project, it was also studied the use of natural compounds with mordant properties, such as Tanchagem, and the coloration using food residues, such as walnut shell, with satisfactory results. Furthermore, the functionality of textiles in terms of antibacterial properties was evaluated, and the substrates dyed with Nogueira and Alcachofra revealed activity against S. aureus, as well as the cationized cotton colored with P. tinctorius.
Este trabalho foi desenvolvido no âmbito do projeto “PICASSo: Processos e Ingredientes inovadores para geração de Cor – têxteis nAturais e SustentáveiS”, com referência nº 18013, cofinanciado pelo Fundo Europeu de Desenvolvimento Regional (FEDER), no âmbito do Portugal 2020 através do COMPETE2020 - Programa Operacional Competitividade e Internacionalização (POCI).

Dissertação de mestrado em Técnicas de Caraterização e Análise Química
Este trabalho surge como parte de um projeto de dissertação vinculado à Universidade do Minho, pelo curso de Mestrado em Técnicas e Caracterização de Análises Químicas. O trabalho foi efetuado em ambiente empresarial na Lameirinho S.A., sendo uma empresa direcionada para os têxteis-lar. A primeira parte do estágio consistiu na integração no laboratório de controlo de qualidade de testes físicos e químicos aos tecidos acabados e no laboratório de cor. Os testes físicos e químicos realizados foram a resistência à tração, ao rasgo, à formação de borboto, à abrasão, determinação da contextura, da estabilidade bidimensional, do aspeto após lavagem, da solidez à fricção, da lavagem à água, do suor e da composição do algodão/poliéster. No laboratório de cor foram efetuados tingimentos em tecido de algodão com corantes reativos e retingimentos utilizando os pigmentos. A segunda parte do estágio foi baseada na implementação de novos ensaios, a determinação de resíduos de formaldeído em amostras têxteis, a determinação da solidez à saliva e da solidez à limpeza a seco. A análise de formaldeído nos têxteis tem vindo a ganhar uma enorme importância devido aos problemas que o composto pode trazer à saúde humana. A maior preocupação é quando os artigos são para o uso de bebés/ crianças. A solidez à saliva é particularmente importante quando se trata de têxteis para bebés. Este teste usa uma saliva artificial e tem como finalidade determinar se os corantes podem ser transferidos do têxtil para a boca. A Lameirinho é uma empresa com padrões e regras muito rigorosas principalmente quando o artigo é destinado a bebés/ crianças. Devido a esse fato apresenta um certificado de qualidade muito importante na área têxtil, o Certificado Oeko-tex® Standard 100.
This report is presented as the result of a thesis project that was completed as part of a degree course in the University of Minho, integrated in the Masters degree in Analytical Techniques and Characterization by Chemical Analysis. The project was carried out in an industrial environment within the installations of Lameirinho, S.A., a company that produces home-textiles. The first part of the placement involved integration as a member of technical staff in the physical/chemical tests and colours laboratories. The physical-chemical tests that were performed included traction, tearing, pilling, abrasion resistance and contexture determination. Further tests included the determination of bidimensional stability, color fastness to frictional, washing and sweat and the appearance after washing. Compositional evaluation of cotton/polyester mixtures and dyeing of cotton textiles with reactive dyes and re-dyeing using pigments were also carried out. The second part of the placement involved the implementation of new tests: the determination of formaldehyde residues in textile samples and the evaluation of colorfastness to saliva and dry cleaning chemicals. The analysis of formaldehyde in textiles has been assuming greater importance as a result of problems that this compound creates in terms of human health. The principal concern arises when textile articles are used by infants. The objective of this specific test is to use artificial saliva to determine whether dyes might be transferred to an infant´s mouth through contact with textiles. Lameirinho is a firm with high standards, particularly when infant health is concerned. Consequently, one of several important industrial certifications that have been awarded to the firm is the Oeko-tex Standard 100.