Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Cosmetics'

Orientador: Rosemeire Cristina Linhari Rodrigues Pietro
Banca: Vera Lucia Borges Isaac Rangel
Banca: Ana Lucia da Costa Darini
Resumo: No decorrer dos últimos, o desenvolvimento de agentes antimicrobianos eficazes e seguros para lidar com infecções bacterianas revolucionou o tratamento médico. Entretanto, pela própria evolução dos organismos e, com auxílio indiscriminado dos antibióticos, muitas espécies de microrganismos foram selecionadas, apresentando resistência aos agentes antimicrobianos utilizados. Como uma tentativa de contornar tal situação e ampliar o arsenal de compostos ativos contra microrganismos patógenos, o estudo de plantas tornou-se crescente no cenário científico... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo)
Abstract: In the last 60 years, the development of safe and affective antimicrobial agents against bacterials infections has changed the clinical therapy. However, as organism evolution as antibiotics indidcriminate use, many microorganism species have been selected showing resistance to drugs used until the moment... (Complete abstract click electronic access below)
Mestre

This research is based on ethnographic fieldwork amongst women purchasing direct sales cosmetics in Slovakia. To interpret the data I use concepts from social as well as evolutionary anthropology. In the thesis I examine the closely bonded female collectives that emerged during the purchasing of cosmetics from direct sales companies. I show that while the company sales representatives were trained in the network selling marketing to make a profit, under specified conditions women’s collectives emerged that encouraged the shared ritualized purchase of cosmetics which undermined the sales representatives’ incentives to make a gain. I identify and explain the mechanisms that intensified the relationships amongst the women who created collectives of allies. In this ritually forged environment the women created small collectives based on mutual trust, sharing, egalitarianism and cooperation that extended beyond the context of attractiveness enhancement. In the ritual mode women generated a resistance culture that opposed the individualistic and competitive practices of the cosmetic companies and favoured the leveling of beautification through ritual egalitarianism. From the energetically costly ritual performance ambivalent ritual gender emerged that incorporated both female and male characteristics and was controlled by the female collectives. Endowed with ritual power women employed their ritually created collective agency by claiming their ritual space and time. In the process of ritualization the women transformed economic relations into gift-like relationships that through a web of social obligations created bonds of solidarity and cooperation amongst them. As a result of the collective ritual practice cosmetics became a signal of commitment to the cosmetic coalition. They were invested with the meanings of morality, cooperation and equality of quasi kinship ties. Through regular participation in the collective cosmetic rituals women learnt a ritual template that enabled them to enter any such female collective across Slovakia. These collectives provided their female members with benefits beyond the ritual context. The thesis contributes to the body of work on female competition and cooperation. It shows that once women are united through collective rituals with cosmetics and beautification at their centre they create a safe environment where cooperation rather than competition through beauty prevails. Through recognizing and interpreting the mechanisms for bonding and group commitment the thesis also develops the model of female cosmetic coalitions within the setting of direct sales cosmetics in Slovakia.

This thesis is based on my Make-Up Photography Project inspired by the interview of Thai sex workers about their dreams. Each woman’s dream was interpreted and translated into make up design before painted on the models, five Scripps college students, who happened to share similar passion and personality. All models were photographed individually in a regular portraiture style with their make up. The images were then edited in Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator, which incorporated the interview Thai Sex worker’s translated interview and the model’s response to the collaboration together in five complete 32.75 by 22 inches photographs.

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Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)
Universidade Estadual Paulista (UNESP)
No decorrer dos últimos, o desenvolvimento de agentes antimicrobianos eficazes e seguros para lidar com infecções bacterianas revolucionou o tratamento médico. Entretanto, pela própria evolução dos organismos e, com auxílio indiscriminado dos antibióticos, muitas espécies de microrganismos foram selecionadas, apresentando resistência aos agentes antimicrobianos utilizados. Como uma tentativa de contornar tal situação e ampliar o arsenal de compostos ativos contra microrganismos patógenos, o estudo de plantas tornou-se crescente no cenário científico...
In the last 60 years, the development of safe and affective antimicrobial agents against bacterials infections has changed the clinical therapy. However, as organism evolution as antibiotics indidcriminate use, many microorganism species have been selected showing resistance to drugs used until the moment... (Complete abstract click electronic access below)

This thesis collects the published material evidence surrounding the personal use of cosmetics and perfumes in Pompeii, and contains a typology of Roman unguentaria. The findings and analysis will be fundamentally archaeological, but will be supported by the ancient literary and secondary published works on archaeometry, especially chromatography. The main theory behind this research is that cosmetics may indicate certain room functions by gender and class, and could provide insight into the gendered use of space within Roman households.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Alabama at Birmingham, 2007.
Additional advisors: Yogesh K. Vohra, Renato P. Camata, Herbert C. Cheung, Craig A. Elmets. Description based on contents viewed June 23, 2009; title from PDF t.p. Includes bibliographical references.

In the last decades, the Chinese cosmetics market has experienced an unprecedented growth, so that nowadays it is the second largest cosmetics market in the world. Increased consumption of cosmetics and sophistication of consumers’ demand made China the most sought-after market for many Western companies that started to import their products and establish production subsidiaries in China, taking advantage of an initial lack of regulations and controls on the market. As a result, foreign enterprises, especially European and American ones, easily ended up conquering major market shares thanks to their strong brand image and reputation. However, in the last few years, China has been strengthening its regulation and legal requirements on cosmetics in order to control imported products and ensure safety and quality of cosmetics. Increased requirements on cosmetics and complex procedures for importation and registration of cosmetics let foreign cosmetic companies experience major difficulties and they became actual barriers to entry for many small and medium enterprises that intended to enter the Chinese market. Recent developments in Chinese regulations and legal requirements on cosmetics showed a greater attention from the Chinese part toward safety and quality assessment and a tendency to align its requirements to international ones, especially to the European ones. But what are the real reasons behind these recent developments? Is China going to completely align its regulation to the European one? This is the background on which this thesis was elaborated. Its aim is investigating the current state of regulations and procedures for importation of foreign cosmetics on the Chinese market and trying to answer the above-mentioned questions. The first part of this thesis introduces a general framework about the state of cosmetics at international level, followed by a general overview on the Chinese cosmetics market based on the analysis of its state of development and its general major characteristics. The central part is devoted to recent developments and the current state of regulations and legal requirements on cosmetics in China, which represent important trade barriers for foreign companies, and it ends up with a comparison between Chinese and European regulations that shows how differences have an impact on foreign cosmetic companies that operate on the Chinese market. Finally, the last part attempts to draw conclusions, answer the questions raised throughout the thesis and give a personal interpretation of the implied intentions of China. Is it really going to align to European requirements? Is it trying to catch up with international regulations and standards to foster international trade? Or does it just want to protect its domestic market from the “foreign invasion” while hiding behind the goodwill to align its regulation and legal requirements with the European ones?

This thesis maps out the roles of cosmetic use in Renaissance Italy from the period c.1450-1540, using books containing cosmetic recipes as the primary source material. Their content, dissemination, and use is explored as a means of creating a new understanding of a practice central to daily life and integral to ongoing arguments about the body. Recent scholarship has seen a rise in interest in books of recipes and secrets in the Renaissance and Early Modern periods, but there has yet to be a full-length study exploring cosmetic recipes as a significant source of information, leaving a considerable gap in the understanding of how ‘high’ cultural discussions of beauty ideals related to popular culture and everyday practice. This thesis aims to fill that gap. Focusing on the formative period of 1450-1540, when both the written and artistic interests in cosmetics were developing, this thesis draws together a large body of previously unpublished primary source material from printed and manuscript recipe books relating to the making and use of cosmetics, and is the first in-depth analysis of the material and visual culture of Italian cosmetic practice during this period. A major component of this project was to establish what practices, materials and products constituted Renaissance cosmetic practice. The way in which recipes for beautification are identified within recipe books is carefully considered, and recipe ingredients and methods are examined, with comparisons made to the representation of cosmetics in non-recipe sources (written and visual). The goal was to describe cosmetics as they were defined in Renaissance terms, so recipe ingredients have been considered largely in context of Renaissance medicine rather than modern pharmacy, in contrast to most extant studies on the topic. A further major aim of this study was to create a detailed reconstruction of the social values attached to cosmetic use during the Renaissance period. This has been investigated both through an examination of how cosmetics are represented in written and visual sources, and also through a critical investigation of the people involved in the making and use of cosmetics and cosmetic recipe collections. Throughout, a range of material sources have been examined in consideration with each other—recipe books, behavioural advice, moral arguments, printed and painted image, inventories, and household objects such as mirrors and combs—demonstrating that cosmetics had a wide ranging and significant presence in daily Renaissance life. The first chapter examines the moral discourses directed at cosmetic use, establishing the place of these discourses within broader concerns about the control of women’s behaviour. Chapter 2 begins to place the ideals of beauty in a social context, examining how cosmetics are represented in recipe books, and discussing what activities and practices Renaissance ‘cosmetics’ consisted of, with particular attention given to their relationship with medicinal recipes. Chapters 3 and 4 investigate the people who made and used cosmetic recipes, broadly addressing themes of accessibility, and the connections between a beautified appearance and social status. The authors of recipe books, the books’ cost, audience literacy, markets for medicine, and cost and effectiveness of cosmetic recipes are all taken into account to illustrate a lively economy surrounding the use of makeup. Finally, Chapters 5 and 6 address cultural representations of cosmetic use in art and literature, re-examining key examples within the context of the material culture of cosmetics to demonstrate the significance of makeup use in formulations of Renaissance femininity.

Today, in the context of globalization and Chinese "open door" policy, many different international cosmetics companies are going to the Chinese market and existing companies are trying to enlarge their appearance to earn more profit margins.The main aim for writing this thesis on this topic was to analyze Chinese cosmetics industry environment via PEST analysis and the development of the industry. It's important to select a marketing strategy when doing business in China because of the huge difference between Chinese social and business culture in the Western countries.

The purpose of this research is to determine the extent of standardization of cosmetics advertising in Taiwanese and American magazines and to determine the brands and products most prevalently advertised in these two countries. The advertisements sampled were from Vogue and Cosmopolitan women's magazines, issues September 2004 to February 2005.

Thesis (M. Phil.)--Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, 2003.
Includes bibliographical references (leaves 83-86). Also available in electronic version. Access restricted to campus users.

Les applications dans le domaine de la réalité augmentée se sont rapidement répandues au travers des sites de e-commerce et des réseaux sociaux, permettant désormais aux consommateurs d'essayer virtuellement une large variété de produits cosmétiques. Néanmoins, alors l'essayage virtuel est apprécié par les consommateurs, il offre un réalisme limité en comparaison d'une image de véritable produit cosmétique. Par ailleurs, les domaines émergent des réseaux génératifs et du rendu neuronal offrent aujourd’hui de nouvelles perspectives que nous étudions cette thèse, pour une synthèse d'images plus réalistes et de nouvelles expériences d’essayage virtuel. Tout d’abord, nous introduisons une nouvelle méthode de synthèse de maquillage, basée sur des réseaux génératifs, dans laquelle la couleur des cosmétiques peut être explicitement contrôlée, de façon similaire à un moteur de rendu physique. Notre modèle permet de synthétiser des images réalistes de maquillage des yeux et des lèvres en haute résolution. De plus, nous introduisons une méthode d’apprentissage faiblement supervisée pour les réseaux génératifs contrôlables, nous permettant de nous affranchir du besoin de données labellisées. Cependant, les méthodes génératives souffrent de certaines limitations pour une utilisation dans des applications en temps réel. C’est pourquoi nous proposons une approche de rendu neuronal pour l’essayage virtuel des cosmétiques en temps réel sur les appareils mobiles. Notre approche est basée sur un nouveau réseau d’inversion graphique qui apprend à projeter une image d’exemple dans l’espace des paramètres d’un moteur de rendu d’informatique graphique. Ce modèle est entraîné grâce à une approche auto-supervisée qui ne nécessite pas d’images d'entraînement labellisées. Cette méthode rend possible de nouvelles applications dans lesquelles les consommateurs peuvent essayer virtuellement un nouveau produit cosmétique à partir d’une image de maquillage de leur choix, telle qu’une photographie issue des réseaux sociaux. Enfin, nous introduisons une nouvelle méthode permettant d’accélérer la digitalisation de nouveaux produits cosmétiques pour les applications d'essayage virtuel. En prenant exemple sur le domaine de la capture des matériaux, nous proposons une nouvelle méthode combinant application contrôlée et système d’imagerie pour les produits cosmétiques. De plus, nous illustrons une utilisation possible de ce nouveau type de données pour l’estimation de l'apparence des cosmétiques sur le visage grâce à une méthode ce rendu neuronal. Au total, les nouvelles méthodes introduites dans cette thèse permettent l’amélioration des technologies d’essayage virtuel des cosmétiques, à la fois de manière directe, en introduisant des méthodes rendu plus réaliste, et indirecte, en proposant de nouvelles expériences pour les consommateurs et en améliorant la créations de l’essayage virtuel pour de nouveaux produits cosmétiques
Augmented reality applications have rapidly spread across online retail platforms and social media, allowing consumers to virtually try on a large variety of cosmetics products. However, even though appreciated by consumers, such applications currently offer limited realism compared to real product images. On the other hand, the rapidly emerging field of generative models and neural rendering offers new perspectives that we will study in this work for realistic image synthesis and novel virtual try-on experiences. First, we introduce a novel makeup synthesis method based on generative networks in which the makeup color can be explicitly controlled, similar to a physically-based renderer. Our model obtains photorealistic results on lips and eyes makeup in high resolution. Furthermore, we relax the need for labeled data by introducing a weakly-supervised learning approach for generative-based controllable synthesis.However, GANs methods suffer from limitations for real-time applications. Thus, we propose a neural rendering approach for virtual try-on of cosmetics in real-time on mobile devices. Our approach is based on a novel inverse graphics encoder network that learns to map a single example image into the space of parameters of a computer graphics rendering engine. This model is trained using a self-supervised approach which does not require labeled training data. This method enables new applications where consumers can virtually try-on a novel, unknown cosmetic product from an inspirational reference image on social media. Finally, we propose a novel method for accelerating the digitization of new cosmetics products in virtual try-on applications. Inspired by the field of material capture, we introduced a controlled application and imaging system for cosmetics products. Furthermore, we illustrate how this novel type of cosmetics image can be used to estimate the final appearance of cosmetics on the face using a neural rendering approach. Overall, the novel methods introduced in this thesis improve cosmetics virtual try-on technologies both directly, by introducing more realistic rendering method, and indirectly, allowing novel experiences for consumers, and accelerating the creation of virtual try-on for new cosmetics products

The topical application of many substances, including drugs, enzymes, moisturizers and fragrances, contributes largely to the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. These components are often volatile in nature and dissipate in a matter of hours. When considering the different types of slow release systems, an overwhelming variety of these systems is available. Each one of the systems is unique in a way, and is designed to perform a particular function, whether it facilitates the controlled release of an active into the body via the skin surface (transdermal delivery) or whether it reduces the rate of loss of an active from the skin surface to the surrounding environment. For the purpose of this study, a previously existing fixative formulation which is believed to reduce the rate of loss of an active component to the environment, through film formation on the skin surface, was investigated. Alternative ingredients or components were incorporated together with the original fixative formulation ingredients into an experimental design which investigates the effect of each group of the components present. 18 formulations with various concentrations of the components within the groups and specified upper and lower limits for each component were formulated. The fixative properties of the formulations were analysed through the incorporation of a fixed amount of a simple fragrance molecule, 4- methoxybenzaldehyde, into each formulation and evaporation studies were conducted in an environmental room at 28±1° C over a period of 5 hours followed by gas chromatography analysis and finally data analyses using statistical methods. The most efficient fixative formulation was established using regression analysis. The fragrance compound in this formulation was found to evaporate at a rate of 0.47 g/L per hour. The least efficient fixative formulation lead to the loss of 0.78 g/L of the fragrance component per hour. From the calculated fragrance concentrations, the rate constant for each individual fixative formulation could be calculated and response surface 8 modelling by backward regression was used in order to determine how each component contributes to the rate of loss of the fragrance compound. Since the sum of the original ingredient and its alternative was constant, each of the original ingredients was coupled directly to its alternative and no conclusion could be made about the contribution of individual components. By increasing the concentration of Hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) 100K and its alternative HPC 140K, while keeping the effects of the other components constant, a decrease in the rate of fragrance loss was observed. The same conclusion could be made when increasing the concentrations of PEG-12 Dimethicone and its alternative cetyl dimethicone (decreases the evaporation rate). An interaction took place between HPC 100K and PEG-12 dimethicone and their alternatives. The negative effect was, however, not as strong as the combined positive effect on the rate of fragrance loss of the individual components HPC and PEG-12 dimethicone. Evidence suggested that the removal of the components polyvinylpyrrolidone and its alternative, polyurethane-32 (Baycusan® C1003), would improve the effectiveness of the fixative formulation in terms of its slow release properties. A confirmation experiment established that the exclusion of these components from the fixative formulation does improve the “slow release” properties thereof. A larger, more intricate design is required to investigate the effect of each one of the individual components and where the sum of the components (original and its alternative) is not constant.

Ancient Egypt is renowned for its extensive use of beauty products, but the image of Ancient Egypt modern media presents to consumers today barely expresses the importance of these products and practices. This paper details the production, application process, and function of these products and describes their importance in relation to modern society. The four functions of cosmetics (Religion, Aesthetics, Status, Health) are used to examine why beauty rituals are important to the Egyptian society, and modern beauty trends are contrasted with those of Ancient Egypt. Culture and industry movements and their catalysts explain the connection between past and present beauty ideals and standards. Overall, this paper determines Ancient Egypt’s profound impact on the modern beauty culture.

Thesis (M.Sc.)--City University of Hong Kong, 2005.
Title from title screen (viewed on Jan. 10, 2006) "A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in Engineering Management." Includes bibliographical references.

Orientador: Vera Lucia Borges Isaac
Banca: Marcos Antonio Correa
Banca: Gislaine Ricci Leonarodo
Resumo: Cosméticos são usados pelo homem desde a antiguidade e o consumo desse segmento vem aumentando a cada ano, praticamente imune a crises. O Brasil é o quarto maior mercado de cosméticos no mundo, ficando atrás apenas dos Estados Unidos, China e Japão, segundo dados da Associação Brasileira de Higiene Pessoal, Perfumaria e Cosméticos. Dentre as matérias primas que mais causam reações alérgicas estão os conservantes, corantes e composições aromáticas. Assim sendo, a preocupação com a segurança dos conservantes cosméticos deve ser intensificada. Grande importância é dada ao assunto atualmente, existindo a preocupação com o potencial de irritação e toxicidade para o consumidor e não apenas com o aspecto microbiológico. Desta forma, o presente trabalho teve por objetivo avaliar a citotoxicidade e potencial de irritação de conservantes antimicrobianos que são utilizados em cosméticos. Foram realizados ensaios de citotoxicidade, através do método MTT, em células de fibroblastos humano (HDFa), células de queratinócitos humano (HaCaT) e células de carcinoma hepatocelular humano (HepG2) e potencial de irritação em ovos embrionados de galinha através do método HET-CAM. Foram utilizados os conservantes: fenoxietanol, mistura de fenoxietanol e metilisotiazolinona (Fenox/Mit), mistura de metilcloroisotiazolinona e metilisotiazolinona (CMit/Mit), metilparabeno e propilparabeno, que são amplamente utilizados em cosméticos. Os conservantes mais citotóxicos e com maior pontuação de irritação (PI... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo)...
Abstract: Cosmetics have been used by man since antiquity and the consumption of this segment has been increasing every year, practically immune to crises. Brazil is the fourth largest cosmetics market in the world, behind only the United States, China and Japan, according to data from the Brazilian Association of Personal Hygiene, Perfumery and Cosmetics. Among the raw materials that most cause allergic reactions are preservatives, dyes and aromatic compositions. Therefore, concern about the safety of cosmetic preservatives should be intensified. Great importance is given to the subject nowadays, there being concern about the potential for irritation and toxicity to the consumer and not just with the microbiological aspect. Thus, the present work aimed to evaluate the cytotoxicity and irritation potential of antimicrobial preservatives that are used in cosmetics. Cytotoxicity were assessed by MTT assay method using human fibroblast cells (HDFa), human keratinocytes cells (HaCaT) and using human hepatoma cells (HepG2) and irritation potential in embryonated chicken eggs using the HET-CAM method. Preservatives were used: phenoxyethanol, a mixture of phenoxyethanol and methylisothiazolinone (Fenox/Mit), a mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (CMit / Mit), methylparaben and propylparaben, which are widely used in cosmetics. The most cytotoxic and highest irritation score (IS) preservatives considered irritants, were: phenoxyethanol (HaCat IC50: 0,237 mg/mL; HDFa IC50: 0,200 mg/mL; HepG2 IC50: 0,248 mg/mL; IS: 16) and Fenox/Mit (HaCat IC50: 0,156 mg/mL; HDFa IC50: ~0,056 mg/mL; HepG2 IC50: 0,119 mg/mL; IS: 10). The other preservatives, CMit/Mit (HaCat: non-toxic; HDFa: non-toxic; HepG2: >0,0045 mg/mL), propylparaben (HaCat IC50: ~0,200 mg/mL; HDFa IC50: >0,200 mg/mL; HepG2: >0,400 mg/mL)... (Complete abstract click electronic access below)
Mestre

A trend of environmental consciousness is developing for some years in every market and sometimes gave birth to a sub-market such as the organic-cosmetic market. This market represents an important part of cosmetics in general and major companies can be identified. Marketers have noticed this trend and sometimes use it into their communication strategy but it still has to be studied properly in order to determine its impact on the purchasing behavior of consumers and their perception of the brand. Indeed, we think that this environmental consciousness can challenge the balance between Brand Image and Brand Awareness in this market.   This paper is aiming to explore the impact of this specific trend on the organic-cosmetic market and studies its influence over the Brand Knowledge management, more precisely the relationship between Brand Image and Brand Awareness. In that goal, we chose to make interviews in front of the shops of two companies interacting on this market: The Body Shop and L’Occitane en Provence. Combined with data collected from previous research into a deductive approach, it led us to some general conclusion concerning the level of Brand Image and Awareness of those companies, their relationship and the impact of environmental consciousness on this relationship.   We concluded from those results that the brand L’Occitane en Provence had a slightly lower Brand Awareness than its competitor but its customers had a more important environmental consciousness that led them to this company due to its values and specific type of product. We can then conclude that on such markets impacted with this type of external factor, if the company implements it in its communication strategy or its core values, then its need for Brand Awareness is lower. One can now wonder if this trend in particular or any other external factor can be used in other markets on the same way.

碩士
元智大學
管理研究所
97
In Taiwan, the commercial possibilities of cosmetics are enormous and it can be seen from the department stores that all cosmetics counters are settled in the main floors. The reason for the departments taking cosmetics counters as cash cows is the astonishing purchasing power of cosmetics from consumers is much higher than other merchandise. Therefore, the cosmetics counters which are settled in the most conspicuously and biggest places are normally the top of selling. However, the cosmetics counters which can be taken as cash cows are always foreign brand, even some large well-known department stores do not station Taiwanese brand. Is Taiwanese cosmetics worse than foreign cosmetics? Is that because people are xenomania? What is Taiwanese government’s orientation in cosmetics industry development progress? This research tried to find the typically local brand form the Taiwanese cosmetics industry development progress as the case. MISASA cosmetics was an over thirty years old company, the best ranking in Taiwanese cosmetics market was the fourth and the market share rate was more than 6%. MISASA cosmetics enjoyed great popularity and ever launched much popular merchandise. This famous brand, nevertheless, disappeared abruptly in 2006, many shareowners, employees, dependents, and the upholder who grew up with MISASA were all astonished, and even the trades sighed as well. What is the reason making MISASA winding up the business? In this research, the author explored the competitive junctures which MISASA cosmetics mastered during the Taiwanese cosmetics industry development progress. The author, moreover, drew on the business administration strategy analyzing this case and comprehending if the accuracy of enterprise’s operation strategy would effect the operation when the enterprise encounters the crises during the cosmetics industry development progress. This research not only suggested the future development direction to Taiwanese cosmetics industry but also provided the information to acquaint with the trend to the enterprises who are interested in cosmetics industry.

Trabalho Final de Mestrado Integrado, Ciências Farmacêuticas, Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Farmácia, 2015
Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides obtained from the starch.(1, 2) The natural CDs are composed by six, seven or eight glucopyranose units, respectively, with a lipophilic central cavity.(2-7) The CDs most important property is their ability to form inclusion and non-inclusion complexes with a wide range of solid, liquid and gaseous compounds.(3, 8) This molecular complexation provides beneficial modifications for the guest molecules which cannot be achieved otherwise. The most important are solubility enhancement of highly insoluble guests, stabilization against the degradative effects of oxidation and control of the volatility and unpleasant odors.(3) Therefore, CDs are used in pharmaceutical(9), food(10), chemical(11), agricultural(12) and cosmetic(13) industry. A lot of studies have been made about the use of CDs in cosmetic preparations.(14) Procter & Gamble is one of the most important companies that invest in this revolutionary molecule.(8) They publish a lot of patents for many applications, such as skin creams(15), deodorants(16) and toothpastes(17). The skin care became a priority and brands like CoverGirl(18) and Olay(19) are good examples. Keywords:

by Lam Lai-Ming, Tai King-Chi.
Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1996.
Includes bibliographical references (leaves [35-36]).
ABSTRACT --- p.ii
TABLE OF CONTENTS --- p.iii
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS --- p.v
Chapter I. --- INTRODUCTION --- p.1
Overview of the Project --- p.1
Industry Background --- p.1
Customer --- p.2
Objectives --- p.3
Scope of Study --- p.3
Definition of Terms --- p.5
Organization of the Project --- p.6
Summary --- p.6
Chapter II. --- METHODOLOGY --- p.8
Research Design --- p.8
Exploratory Research --- p.8
Literature Review --- p.9
Company Interview --- p.9
Observation --- p.9
Descriptive Research --- p.10
Field Work --- p.10
Sampling --- p.10
Questionnaire Design --- p.11
Summary --- p.11
Chapter III. --- COMPANY BACKGROUND --- p.13
Setting the Foundation --- p.13
Business Philosophies and Social Responsibility --- p.14
Business Development --- p.16
Marketing Objective of Setting the Hong Kong Counter --- p.17
Summary --- p.18
Chapter IV. --- THE ENVIRONMENT --- p.19
Market and Competitors --- p.19
Target Group --- p.20
Summary --- p.21
Chapter V. --- THE CURRENT MARKETING STRATEGIES --- p.22
Product Strategy --- p.22
Price Strategy --- p.23
Communication Strategy --- p.24
Endorsement of Celebrities --- p.24
Services and Salesforce Strategy --- p.25
Distribution Strategy --- p.26
Summary --- p.27
Chapter VI. --- DATA ANALYSIS AND INTERPRETATION --- p.28
Interviewee Profile --- p.28
About Color Cosmetic Users in General --- p.29
Buyer Behavior and Brand Loyalty --- p.29
Awareness Level Among Different Brands --- p.33
About Those Who Know MAC --- p.35
MAC Visitors --- p.35
MAC Purchasers --- p.36
Information Channels --- p.37
Intention to Buy --- p.38
Impression on MAC --- p.39
Summary --- p.41
Chapter VII. --- IMPLICATION OF FINDINGS --- p.43
Low Loyalty --- p.43
"""Word-of-mouth""" --- p.43
Criteria in Selecting the Shop and Making Purchase --- p.44
Importance of Point of Purchase Material and Salesperson --- p.44
Success Factors of MAC --- p.45
Weaknesses of MAC --- p.45
Conclusion --- p.46
Chapter VIII. --- RECOMMENDATIONS --- p.47
Product Strategy --- p.47
Price Strategy --- p.49
Communication Strategy --- p.49
Services and Salesforce Strategy --- p.51
Distribution Strategy --- p.51
Summary --- p.52
Chapter IX. --- LIMITATIONS --- p.54
APPENDIX
BIBLIOGRAPHY

博士
中國醫藥大學
中國藥學研究所
96
The Chinese herb containing cosmetic products have been increasing in the market. Certainly, it is necessary to have evidence to prove the formulation, safety, usage and effectiveness of Chinese herb-containing cosmetics. The safety and effectiveness of Chinese herb-containing cosmetics can be confirmed by the modern research technics, but the records from ancient literatures or textbooks were one of the feasible methods. In this study, we try to establish a model to develop Chinese herb-containing cosmetic products. In the first part of this study, we reviewed the ancient literatures to provide list of Chinese herbs for use in cosmetic formulations. In the second part of this study, we choose the Zicao (Arnebia euchroma (AE) and Lithospermum erythrorhizon (LE)) to evaluate the antioxidant activities of aqueous and methanolic extracts of the roots of AE and LE by Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC) test, DPPH staining test, Free radical scavenging capacity (RSC), and reducing power method. We also analyzed their content of the total phenolic compounds, flavonol, and flavonoids to illustrate the correlation between contents and antioxidant activities. This study provides the evidence that the antioxidant activities of AE were greater than LE. Furthermore, the antioxidant activities of AE and LE were also closely related to the contents of total polyphenols, flavonoids and flavonols. According to the literatures, retention of water in the stratum corneum of skin epidermis plays an important role in regulation of skin function. Loss of water may decline skin appearance gradually and lead to irregular skin disorders. The root extract of LE is known for its anti-bacterial, anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory, and free radicals scavenging activity. However, the potential skin care effect of LE is not clear. The third part of this study was to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy and skin barrier repairing activity of LE. The preliminary results indicated that LE show slight moisturizing effect on skin hydration and significant skin repairing capacity by decreasing the value of transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The skin irritated effects induced by sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) were inhibited by treatment with LE after SLS stimulation. It is suggested that LE treatment is probably benefit for protection of skin barrier.

碩士
國立交通大學
應用藝術研究所
98
Recently, there are various cosmetics in the markets. For women, that is a good news. However, most women have no ideas about how to choose cosmetic products. In this dissertation, we adopt an evolutionary biology perspective to define the criteria of beauty. To investigate relationships between skin color and cosmetics, we manipulated four independent variables: (1) foundation, (2) blush, (3) lipstick, and (4) highlightening and bronzing products; and observed three dependent variables: (1) the scores of health, (2)youth, and (3)preference. The result reveals several conclusions: 1. Cosmetics can improve the look of skin color. 2. Women having white skin colors are thought to be healthier, younger, and more attractive. 3. One should choose the color of foundation according to one’s skin color. 4. Women having white skin colors should consider more when they wear cosmetics, although they have more desirable skin colors. 5. Women having medium and dark skin colors can wear some blush and highlightening products. 6. Orange is not appropriate for the color of lips. 7. For blush, lipstick, and bronzing products, there is no significant difference in effects among various colors of cosmetics.

碩士
國立臺灣大學
資訊管理學研究所
96
With the recent rise of Web 2.0 concepts and the advent of a long tail economy, more and more content can be obtained though the Web. Consumers now have much more alternatives than ever before. Nonetheless, the plenty of choices is itself a blessing and a curse. Alas, the recent birth of the recommender system, which aims to find the items that a specific user might be interested in, provides us with a new remedy. So much effort has been devoted to this area of research and four different approaches; namely, collective filtering, content filtering, knowledge-based, and demographic; have become the four major recommendation techniques. Each has its own pros and cons. As a result, one of the branches of recommender system research is to blend these mechanisms into a single hybrid. In this paper, we extrapolate the feasibility of the feature combination hybrid method by merging the collective filtering and demographic techniques. Meanwhile, an idea from data mining field was borrowed to develop a new way in computing the similarity between users. We also combine the content filtering and knowledge-based by using the feature augmentation hybrid method to filter out similar products. Skin care products are chosen to be our proof-of-concepts due to their often semi-standard product nature, their general high price, and the high user involvement in the purchasing process. The empirical result demonstrates that our approach has similar prediction accuracy as the Pearson correlation metric, proven to be the most accurate one in terms of mean absolute error, while at the same time having higher classification and ranking accuracy. The participants also reveal having satisfactory level of system usefulness, novelty, adoption and satisfaction. It is therefore our strong believe that our contribution lies in the building of a novel and improved approach for recommending goods and services.

碩士
國立雲林科技大學
全球運籌管理研究所碩士班
100
Thanks to the increases in national income and living standard for the past few years, the range of the cosmetics consumers is extending gradually and tremendous business opportunities are created for the cosmetics industry. As a result, a multitude of enterprises devote themselves to this market one after another causing growing competition they are going to face relatively. The approach of project management is adopted in this research to improve the operation flow of the company under study and relieve the predicament of few customer orders. A case study on a cosmetics factory in central Taiwan was made in this research. The strategies to enhance the number of orders on a monthly basis were examined and the operation flow was improved by project management. Nine knowledge areas were served as dimensions and the PDCA cycle was performed exactly so that the most suitable strategy for the company under study might be redesigned and formulated. Strategies for improving personnel service, the efficiency of providing samples, quotation formula, dividing marketing channels and prices and arrangement of shuttle buses were analyzed and verified through actual examples. These strategies have been proved to be the most appropriate tactics for the company since they not only reduce the duration required for the operation tremendously, but also enhance customer satisfaction, meet customer needs and help set up a good image of the organization resulting in the accomplishment of the goal of increasing monthly orders and bringing in positive effect.

碩士
國立臺中科技大學
流通管理系碩士班
105
Using the Zaltman metaphor elicitation technique, this study elicited respondents’ self-generated meanings of counter and open-shelf cosmetics to obtain the mental models of consumers. Means-end chains analysis was then applied to categorize the respondents’ mental models into levels based on the product type (counter or open-shelf). Subsequently, a consensus map was obtained, from which the key driving factors that lead to action are determined. Results show that the mental models of counter cosmetic consumers are as follows: present–reward–pleasure, brightness–cleanness–sense of security, professionalism–princess–trust, servitude– princess–uniqueness, and diversity–beauty–uniqueness. Similarly, the mental models of open-shelf cosmetic consumers are as follows: numerous channels– convenience–sense of security, diversity–relaxation–carefreeness, diversity– test–pleasure, inexpensiveness–test–pleasure, inexpensiveness–accessibility– carefreeness, andopenness–accessibility–carefreeness. The research findings explain how value is perceived in the mental models of counter and open-shelf cosmetic consumers, which may serve as a reference for cosmetic companies in formulating marketing strategies.

碩士
國立高雄大學
國際高階經營管理碩士在職專班(IEMBA)
103
Business model of enterprise is always affected by the overall environment evolution and then affect the profitability of firm. In current business environment of cosmetics distributor, selecting or developing their own business model has become the critical success factors. In an increasingly changing environment, the business model of firm must keep with the times to be sustainable. This study employs nine elements of business model canvas that proposaed by Osterwalder and Pigneur (2010), that including customer segmentation, value proposition, channels, customer relationships, revenue streams, key resources, key activities, key partners and the cost structure, to analysis current business model of the case company. According to the results, this study would make the proposal to enhance its competitive advantage by proposing appropriate and feasible innovative business models and operational strategies. The results found that the case company could survive in the cosmetics distributor industry by operating the existing business model. However, with the current changing environment of cosmetics distributor industry, in order to increase the company's overall revenue stream, this study suggest that case company should not add huge cost inputs. This study also proposes two feasible business models for case company reference. The results of this study hope to be able to be helpful for overall cosmetics distributors in Vietnam to set an effective business operating strategy in systematic way when they face their industry rapid change.

碩士
嘉南藥理大學
化粧品應用與管理系
106
Powders added to cosmetics can modify skin dullness, uneven skin tone, cover partial skin imperfections, and absorb sweat and sebum, as well as protect against UV damage. The use of oils and fats in cosmetics can help disperse the powder and impart a soft feeling to the skin. However, oils and fats can easily cause cosmetic instability and lead to separation. This study focused on the rheological behavior of emulsified cosmetics and gel-type cosmetics contained powders, and explored the stability of powders added to cosmetic formulas. First, select different oils to be added into the cosmetic formula, and then add the powder to the formula to investigate the rheological behavior of the two emulsifiers(ABIL EM90、Tego Care 450) and the three polymer colloids(Carbopol U20、Carbopol 341、Carbopol 940) and powders. The temperature stability and the centrifugation test are used to predict the stability of cosmetics, and the better performance and stability conditions of emulsifiers, polymer colloids and powders in cosmetic formulations are obtained. Emulsified cosmetics results showed that: (1) The structure of oils and emulsifiers and the ratio of oil to water affect the stability of emulsified cosmetics.(2) The shear thinning reduction factor of different emulsifiers is Tego Care 450 > ABIL EM 90, which shows that the emulsifier Tego Care 450 has better ductility.(3) Rheological effects on stability and ductility, better ductility options: In the W/O type, the choice of grease is D> T> N, the grease concentration is 5%> 10%, the powder addition amount is 3%> 8%> 12%; the O/W type grease is selected D> N> T, The amount of powder added is 8% > 3%.(4) From the experimental results, within the stable range that can be used, the stability and ductility are defined, and the best formula is selected as E-D5-P3 and T-D5-P8. As the research basis, the development is both effective and stable product. Gel-type cosmetics results showed that: (1) During the production process, insufficient energy may cause poor gel cosmetic stability.(2) The shear thinning reduction ratio of different macromolecules is Carbopol 940 > Carbopol 341 > Carbopol U20, which shows that the polymer Carbopol 940 has better ductility.(3) Rheological effects on stability and ductility, better ductility options: In Carbopol 940 and Carbopol U20, the choice of oil is C> R, while Carbopol 341, the choice of oil R> C, the amount of powder added is 12%> 8%> 3%.(4) From the experimental results, within the stable range that can be used, the stability and ductility are defined, and the best formula is selected as G9-C1-P12. As a basis for the research, an effective and stable product is developed. The results of this study can be provided to cosmetic formulation developers as a reference for the development of powder-containing cosmetics.

碩士
國立屏東大學
資訊管理學系碩士班
105
Virtual community has become one of the important information resources for purchase. This paper explores the knowledge concept structure of cosmetics using discussion data from a virtual community. 600 discussion data are sampling from a famous community, Mobile 01. Five knowledge concepts are first identified and then the knowledge structure is constructed by formal concept analysis. The five knowledge concepts are extracted as "brand awareness", "brand image by prolocutor", "brand loyalty", "brand attributes", and "brand interest". Then this research will classify into two data groups: cosmetics and care products. The knowledge structures are draw and compared of each data group using formal concept analysis. The results show the most important concept is brand attributes when the members of the community in the purchase of products, and consumers are less emphasis on brand image by prolocutor. And further research results show that skin care products and cosmetics in top three in the brand factors ratio is different.

碩士
世新大學
資訊管理學研究所(含碩專班)
98
Customer is not only the most important source of profit, but also the most important competitiveness of any company; in the highly competitive business environment now, the more customers can at least maintain the rate of loss of business, the more able to have the best of their competitiveness. In this study, the RFM Model to analyze the customer's transaction data over the years, and Arthur Hughes proposed the use of indicators points to build the principles of RFM, the value of customer loyalty trends and their analysis and use of data mining, Na��ve Bayes analysis in technology, basic information on customers to build the decision tree attributes, and RFM model and the results of the analysis of cross-validation to verify the correctness of the data and predict the loss of customers to build a mechanism to provide business marketing strategy as a reference. In this study, case study approach, the study of a Costemics Industry company, research sample of cases the company 4 years and 4 months of customer information and transaction information selected, the customer information for 16,468 samples which is effective, of which 8,234 numbers for training materials, the percent was 50%, used to train model; and test data for the 8,234 numbers, used to test the accuracy of the information training. The Na��ve Bayes analysis of data mining techniques was used, an analysis of customer information and analysis to verify the results of RFM model to predict the loss of a mechanism to build customers. The results found that the use of customer transaction data RFM model constructed, the customer value of the results of trend analysis can be divided into four dimensions of loyalty analysis, customer loyalty that is the highest, second highest, second lowest and the lowest in four dimensions; In this study, the fundamental attributes of customers, such as customre’s sex, age, regions, and ePaper received …etc, as analysis variables, and take advantage of these variables, namely construction of Na��ve Bayes analysis and modeling and RFM cross-validation of the results Among them, customer loyalty, such as in the four dimensions of the part of the forecast, and its accuracy are in line, so we can see that customers in the use of basic information attributes the loss of customers to build the forecasting mechanism, Na��ve Bayes analysis can have better predictive power. The Institute for the empirical results, that the Na��ve Bayes analysis techniques can be used to verify the results of RFM analysis, its high accuracy, therefore the companies can use Navie Bayes analysis to carry out the customer churn prediction in order to build business churn mechanism for customers.

碩士
靜宜大學
應用化學研究所
92
Three types of dry liquid natto powders, 24hr-liquid natto, 48hr-liquid natto and 96hr-liquid natto, were obtained from the fermentation of Tainan No.2 soybeans by using Bacillus natto in a period of 24hr, 48hr, and 96hr, respectively, filtration, centrifugation and freez-drying. Among them, the yield of 96hr-liquid natto was the highest. The results of effective ingredient and various cosmetic analyses for those three types of liquid natto are summaried as follows： 1)They all possess the high promotion of Dopachrome formation based on the Dopachrome inhibition tests；particularly, 96hr-liquid natto has the most effectiveness. 2)They all can absorb the more UV-A and UV-B light in the concentration of 100.0 mg/ml compared to those of commercial sunscreen products such as Parsol 1789, Benzophenone-3, and octyl methoxycinnamate in the concentration of 0.5 mg/ml；especially, 96hr-liquid natto has the most effectiveness. 3)They all have the excellent moisture maintenance to decrease the dehydration of skin, and to increase the hydrated level of stratum corneum. 4)They all have the antioxidant activity based on the DPPH radical scavenging test, the reducing power determination, and the chelation of Fe2＋ ion. Among them, 96hr-liquid natto has the highest effectiveness. 5)They all can inhibit the growth of Propionibacterium ance slightly；especially, 24hr-liquid natto has the most effectiveness. 6)They all contain polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins；especially, 96hr-liquid natto possesses the hightest amount of those three components. 7)They all demonstrated the high stability while 1.0% liquid natto was mixed with lotion, cream, and mask, respectively, based on the cosmetic stability tests such as high temperature, low temperature, room temperature, circulating temperature, and UV light irradiation .The stability tests can maintain over five months. Therefore, readily prepared liquid natto can be employed to the skin care products since they have various functions such as UV-A and UV-B absorption, antioxidant activity, antibacterial activity for Propionibacterium ance, and high moisture maintenance. Particularly, 96hr-liquid natto was the most valuable candidate on the skin care.

碩士
嘉南藥理大學
化粧品應用與管理系
102
Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes are the common bacterial strains in the acne lesions. The cosmetic can not contain Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Preliminary screening of antibacterial activities Caesalpinia sappan L.ethanol extract for conducted, that to test the above four strains of antibacterial. Among them ethanol extract of C. sappan inhibited S. aureus and P. acnes the inhibition zone diameter was 27.3 and 33.4 mm, respectively. The ethanol extract of C. sappan was partitioned by different solvent polarity to yield the n-Hexane, MeOH, n-BuOH, and H2O layers. The extract and partition of C. sappan was Minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), were determined using micro-dilution technique. The results found very significant in ethanol extract, n-Hexane, MeOH, n-BuOH, and H2O layers (MIC: 75, 3, 8, 7, and 8 µg/mL) by S. aureus. The extracts against were measured of P. acnes in 1 mg/mL, that the results showed inhibitory rate of 100%, in addition to n-Hexane, and H2O layers was invalid, we suggested this C. sappan has the potential to develop to anti-acne drugs and supplements of cosmetic.

碩士
嘉南藥理大學
化粧品應用與管理系
105
There may be microbial contamination in process of cosmetics raw material storage,manufacture or transportation. Microorganism will grow in suitable environment if not adding antibacterial agents or sterilizing appropriately. Escherichia coli,Propionibacterium acnes,Staphylococcus aureus,Pseudomonas aeruginosa,Lactobacillus paracasei are used in experiments. Antibacterial activity of preservatives was detected by Inhibition zone test,for example,is it expired before the expiration date?whether adding more preservatives would make it better or not. We did the experiments and then found that the cosmetics preservative system has poor effect in the conditon such as high temperature,light concentaton,low dose. Alcoholic solvents are suitable for high temperature condition and octylene glycol is the best solvent,but mixed alcoholic solvents will get worse effect. The preservatives added Benzoic acid and Glucono delta-lactone is more useful to Propionibacterium acnes. The preservatives added Benzyl alcohol,Phenoxyethanol and sodium propionate has poor effect usually. I focused on which effect on the cosmetics preservatives system in the research,and I found that different additives have different effects on preservatives. The efficiency doesn't depend on more additives you use,for example,I got worse effects to Propionibacterium acnes in most experiments added Phenoxyethanol and Benzyl alcohol. Finally, we should do more test to ensure efficiency of the system of preservatives in cosmetics.

碩士
國立臺灣海洋大學
食品科學系
92
Abstract The objective of this study are to explore the rheological properties of the aqueous solution prepared from high or low molecular weight Na+ form poly glutamic acid or their hydrogels and to apply those aqueous solution in vital moisture cream and moisture mask. The study includes: 1. To explore the effect of shear rate, solute concentration, solution temperature, NaCl concentration and shearing time on the rheological properties of those aqueous solutions； 2. To replace the humectant in vital moisture cream； 3. To replace the thickener agent in moisture mask and to determine and characterize the apparent viscosity, stability, skin moisture capacity, skin elasticity, pH value and safety of vital moisture cream and moisture mask. The results obtained are: The rheological behavior of poly glutamic acid aqueous solutions are pseudoplastic fluids. Increasing the solute concentration enhanced shear thinning properties of those aqueous solutions, but the shear thinning property in low molecular weight Na+ form of poly glutamic acid aqueous solution is not obvious. The apparent viscosity of different concentrations of poly glutamic acid aqueous solution decreased with increasing solution temperature. The apparent viscosity of poly glutamic acid aqueous solution also decreased with increasing NaCl concentration. The apparent viscosity of high or low molecular weight Na+ form of poly glutamic acid aqueous solution decreased slightly with increasing shearing time. The apparent viscosity of hydrogel form of poly glutamic acid aqueous solution increased slightly with increasing shearing time. The apparent viscosity of vital moisture cream contained 1% different types of poly glutamic acid aqueous solution were higher than that without containing poly glutamic acid aqueous solution. All of the vital moisture cream are pseudoplastic fluids. The stability of vital moisture cream contained 1% hydrogel of poly glutamic acid is better than that containing high or low molecular weight Na+ form of poly glutamic acid. The safety test results in no erythema based on the Draize sore test. The whiteness of products are not significantly different among products contained with or without poly glutamic acid aqueous solution. Skin moisture capacity in terms of electrical capacitance increase ratio are higher than those containing without poly glutamic acid aqueous solution. Skin elasticity values after applying vital moisture creams containing either high or low molecular weight Na+ form of poly glutamic acid are higher than those vital moisture creams containing hyaluronic acid or 2%-2M-hydrogel of poly glutamic acid or control for a trial test for 4 weeks. The apparent viscosity of moisture mask contained 2%-2M-hydrogel of poly glutamic acid is higher than the control. All of the moisture mask are pseudoplastic fluids, and the stability of moisture mask contained poly glutamic acid aqueous solution are excellent. The safety test result in no erythema based on the Draize sore test. Skin moisture capacity in terms of electrical capacitance increase ratio is 94.7% and 90% after applying moisture mask contained 2%-2M-hydrogel poly glutamic acid. Skin moisture capacity increased after applying moisture mask contained poly glutamic acid.

Tese de mestrado, Ciências Biofarmacêuticas, Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Farmácia, 2018
In this dissertation, the relation between sustainability and cosmetic industry is presented, and strategies to the development of sustainable cosmetics are discussed and tested. This project, in an initial phase, had as main assumptions the development of two complementary sustainability tools that aim to accelerate the entire replacement process. The main goal behind the development of the “Microsoft Excel tool – sustainability calculator” was to realize to what extent the product to be developed or already existing in the market is sustainable with real calculations. It is a promising tool that will help formulators to make the most appropriate decisions in terms of sustainability, and consequently reduce the impact of their products and practices. Moreover, this tool allows to evaluate sustainability in one go, which will facilitate the work of the formulators and reduce the time of analysis and decision. Complementary to the sustainability calculator, a tool in specific for raw materials was created that would lead to the adequate selection of alternative ingredients (i.e. sustainable alternatives for petrolatum and dimethicone) in terms of performance in the formulation. The crossing between the data extracted from the tools and the information obtained in the literature led to the attempt to develop sustainable formulations, being one of the main objectives to evaluate the influence of the replacement of synthetic ingredients, namely hydrocarbons, silicones and preservatives, by sustainable ingredients on its physical, chemical and microbiological features. Additionally, the safety, biological efficacy and sensorial aspects of the formulations developed were assessed by using in vivo studies. To complement the study was designed an adequate scale-up procedure and the stability of the final formulations was analyzed. The replacement of synthetic ingredients for sustainable alternatives has effectively an impact on the structural properties of emulsions, and the physic-chemical properties of the selected ingredients have been shown to have a considerable influence on the final structure of the emulsions, especially in terms of rheological behavior. However, it was proven that with adequate selection strategies it is possible to develop appealing sustainable formulations with high standards that are stable for a minimum period of 3 months.
Um passo essencial na rotina de cuidados com a pele é a aplicação de produtos hidratantes. A qualidade de uma formulação hidratante depende da sua eficácia para hidratar a pele e das características organolépticas e sensoriais que ela proporciona. Como todos os produtos de consumo existentes no mercado, os cosméticos e, especificamente, os hidratantes criarão impactos tanto no meio ambiente, como na sociedade e na economia ao longo de todo o seu ciclo de vida. Actualmente é fundamental e estritamente necessário desenvolver produtos e processos que minimizem os impactos negativos na sustentabilidade. O aumento da procura de produtos “verdes” e sustentáveis não só deve forçar a que as empresas correspondam a tais expectativas, bem como as práticas sustentáveis na indústria cosmética deverão ser consideradas como um requisito que deve ser adoptado em nome do futuro. No entanto, o conceito de sustentabilidade é robusto e complexo, e ainda não há directrizes pré-definidas e concretas sobre o que deve ser implementado. As ferramentas de avaliação de sustentabilidade começam a aparecer como uma fonte de ajuda promissora nos negócios da indústria cosmética a fim de acelerar todo o processo de substituição de matérias-primas e tecnologias. Em todos os estágios do ciclo de vida de um produto, uma ampla gama de estratégias pode ser implementada para melhorar a sustentabilidade do sector em geral. Sabendo que uma parte significativa do impacto da sustentabilidade foi definida no estágio inicial do projecto, a selecção das matérias-primas para formular um hidratante sustentável foi destacada como imprescindível. Trata-se de um processo desafiador porque os aspectos organolépticos e sensoriais de cada ingrediente devem ser levados em consideração. Nesta dissertação, a relação entre conceitos de sustentabilidade e processos industriais tradicionais utilizados na indústria cosmética são abordados, bem como estratégias para o desenvolvimento de cosméticos sustentáveis. Este projecto, numa fase inicial, teve como principais pressupostos o desenvolvimento de duas ferramentas de sustentabilidade que visam acelerar todo o processo de análise e substituição de matérias-primas. A principal ideia por detrás do desenvolvimento da ferramenta “Microsoft Excel - calculador de sustentabilidade” foi tentar preencher uma necessidade urgente na indústria cosmética (ou seja, perceber em que medida o produto a ser desenvolvido ou já existente no mercado é sustentável através de cálculos reais). É uma ferramenta promissora que ajudará os formuladores a tomar as decisões mais adequadas em termos de sustentabilidade e, consequentemente, reduzir o impacto dos seus produtos e práticas. Além disso, esta ferramenta permite avaliar a sustentabilidade de uma só vez, ao invés de analisar todos os parâmetros separadamente, o que facilitará o trabalho dos formuladores e reduzirá o tempo de análise e decisão; em apenas alguns minutos, o formulador pode avaliar a sustentabilidade do produto. Para o desenvolvimento desta ferramenta foi realizado à priori um questionário em específico para profissionais da área que permitiu retirar inúmeras conclusões adicionais. Através dos dados obtidos com a pesquisa pode-se afirmar que não há nenhuma matéria-prima e/ou materiais de embalagem e práticas que sejam consideradas 100% sustentáveis, porém, com escolhas adequadas, o impacto dos produtos cosméticos na sustentabilidade pode ser drasticamente reduzido e isso foi comprovado através dos resultados obtidos na prova de conceito/caso de estudo realizado. No geral, para a parte da selecção de matérias-primas, pode afirmar-se que as matérias-primas de origem vegetal são consideradas como a escolha de preferência, seguidas pelas de origem animal. No entanto, não se deve esquecer que ingredientes sintéticos também podem ter um impacto positivo quando parâmetros como desflorestação e biodiversidade entram em equação, devendo sempre ser considerado que a forma como uma substância foi sintetizada e/ou extraída e/ou purificada é tão importante para a sustentabilidade quanto a fonte da matéria-prima da qual é feita (ou seja, fonte sintética, animal ou vegetal). Em termos de fabrico e distribuição, a grande conclusão que pode ser retirada é que todos os parâmetros devem ser cuidadosamente dimensionados, a fim de optimizar todo o processo e, assim, minimizar a pegada ecológica. No que se refere à fase de uso pós-consumo, essa fase é dependente das estratégias criadas/implementadas pela empresa, bem como das acções tomadas pelo consumidor. Ainda assim, de forma a abranger todo o ciclo de vida do produto, as empresas devem concentrar-se na educação do consumidor para ensiná-lo a agir de forma sustentável, e isso pode envolver campanhas de informação, consciencialização e incentivo para que o consumidor comece a familiarizar-se com todos estes novos conceitos e comece a perceber que com pequenas acções pode contribuir para um futuro melhor. Complementarmente à ferramenta “Microsoft Excel - calculador de sustentabilidade”, foi criada uma ferramenta específica para matérias-primas que permite a selecção adequada de ingredientes alternativos (ou seja, alternativas sustentáveis para vaselina/parafina e dimeticona) em termos de sustentabilidade e em termos de desempenho na formulação. Esta ferramenta permite que o formulador apenas com um dado, neste caso o valor de viscosidade aparente de uma dada matéria-prima, consiga prever e obter um valor de espalhamento aproximado. O valor desta ferramenta assenta na importância de compreender as características físico-químicas de uma matéria-prima antes da implementação da mesma numa dada formulação. Através dos resultados obtidos pode afirmar-se que as alternativas de preferência a nível de similaridade físico-química para a substituição de parafina/vaselina assentam sobre ingredientes gelificantes e manteigas de origem vegetal. No entanto, como já descritivo acima, a eficácia para hidratar a pele e as características organolépticas e sensoriais têm de ser ponderadas na escolha final. Para validar as matérias-primas é essencial também reflectir sobre factores adicionais como a oxidação, o que pode causar alterações na cor e aparência da formulação, cor e cheiro das matérias-primas em questão e possíveis interacções entre ingredientes. Todas estas características podem interferir na aceitação por parte do consumidor, e consequentemente afectar a economia da empresa. O cruzamento dos dados obtidos a partir das ferramentas criadas com informações obtidas na literatura (desde fichas técnicas e fichas de segurança a informações específicas dos fornecedores de matérias-primas) levou à tentativa de desenvolver formulações sustentáveis, sendo um dos principais objectivos avaliar a influência da substituição de ingredientes sintéticos, nomeadamente hidrocarbonetos, silicones e conservantes, por ingredientes sustentáveis nas suas características físicas, químicas e microbiológicas. Adicionalmente, a segurança, os efeitos biológicos e sensoriais das formulações desenvolvidas foram avaliados através de estudos in vivo em humanos. Para complementar o estudo foi ainda desenhado um procedimento adequado de scale-up e analisou-se a estabilidade das formulações finais, em termos de características físico-químicas e microbiológicas. Além disso, também foi considerada qual deveria ser a embalagem apropriada para produtos cosméticos sustentáveis, optando-se por embalar as formulações em tubos PEBD. A substituição de ingredientes sintéticos por alternativas sustentáveis tem um impacto efectivo sobre as propriedades estruturais das emulsões, sendo que, as propriedades físico-químicas dos ingredientes seleccionados demonstraram ter uma influência considerável em termos de comportamento reológico. No entanto, ficou provado que, com estratégias de selecção adequadas, é possível desenvolver formulações sustentáveis eficazes e apelativas (i.e. boa aceitação sensorial) com padrões elevados que demonstraram estabilidade por um período de pelo menos 3 meses.

MENVSC
Department of Hydrology and Water Resources
Africa is endowed with various earthy materials, of which each community is uniquely identified. Inspite of the vast knowledge of western cosmetics, application of traditionally used cosmetics have been in existence and will be into practice from generation to generation, this is as a result of their various indigenous knowledge about traditional cosmetics. They are mostly applied during traditional rites and festive periods. Occasionally, earthy materials play a vital role in traditionally used cosmetics. Different reasons have been associated with the use of these earthy materials, they are: for skin cleansing, protection against ultra violet radiation, skin lightening, perfecting the distorted part of the skin and improving beauty. This study is focused on the physico-chemical, chemical and mineralogical characterisation of earthy materials indigenously used as cosmetics. This is achieved firstly by identifying the various earthy materials applied topically as well as their constituents. Samples for this study were obtained from six (6) different African countries namely: Botswana, Cameroon, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Nigeria, South Africa and Swaziland and were subjected to the following analyses: Scanning Electron Microscope and Electron Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy for the morphology and elemental analysis, hydrometer method for the determination of particle sizes of each sample and a texture Auto Lookup Software Package (TAL Version 4.2) for the classification of their various textures (%clay, %sand and %silt). The X-ray diffractometry was applied for the identification of their mineral phases (secondary, major and minor). The Brunauer Emmett and Teller (BET) method was used for the physisorption analysis and classifying them according to their isotherm types (Type I, II, III, IV, V and VI). The chemical analysis was achieved by X-ray fluorescence (XRF). The result revealed that the morphology of the various representative samples varies, except CMR 1; 2, SCC 1; 2 and SLW 1; 2 which showed same structure and same elemental constituents, their resemblance indicated that they possess same geological formation. The XRF result indicated the presence of the following trace elements: Al, As, Au, Ba, Bi, Br, Ca, Cd, Ce, Cl, Co, Cr, Cs, Dy, Er, Eu, Fe, Ga, Gd, Ge, Hf, Hg, Ho, I, In, K, La, Lr, Lu, Mg, Mn, Mo, Na, Nd, Ni, Nb, Os, P, Pb, Pd, Pr, Pt, Re, Rh, Ru, S, Sc, Se, Sb, Si, Sm, Sn, Sr, Ta, Te, Tb, Th, Ti, U, V, W, Y, Yb, Zr and Zn, were measured in ppm. For example, Fe – 66.47 (Qwa-Qwa), Al – 4.64 (Swaziland), Si – 6.26 (Democratic Republic of Congo), Ti – 3.75 (Qwa-Qwa) and so on. From the particle size distribution analysis, some samples were identified to be clay (BTS 1, BTS 2, NG 1, SCC 4, SCC 5, SCC 9, SCC 11, SCC 12, SWL 1 and SWL 2) with their particle sizes < 2μm, whereas other samples showed other properties which are > 2 μm. Ten minerals were identified in the clay fraction samples: albite, goethite, halloysite, hematite, kaolinite (kaolinite-1Md, kaolinite 1) Mica (muscovite), sulphur, talc, chalcanthite and whewellite. The BET method vii for physical adsorption revealed that BTS 1, BTS 2, CMR 1, CMR 2, DRC A, DRC B, NG 1, NG 2, SWL 1, SWL 2, SCC 1, SCC 4, SCC 5, SCC 8, SCC 9, SCC 11 and SCC 12 countries possess Type II isotherm whereas samples from SCC 2, SCC 6, SCC 7 and SCC 10 had Type III isotherm. The physisorption analysis result also determined the various surface areas and porosity of each representative samples.

碩士
銘傳大學
企業管理學系碩士在職專班
105
Drug & cosmetic chain store has grown dramatically in Taiwan , coupled with the increasing number of aging population, domestic drug & cosmetic industry development prospects is quite optimistic. From a drug & cosmetic store business and retail systems development to professionals, pharmacists, beautician, it has helped resolve consumer health and beauty issues, therefore it makes a drug & cosmetic stores growth tremendously in the market trend. People hope in life toward longevity and an aging trend, seek more healthy and beautiful life style, predictable drug & cosmetic industries in the future development and potential. In Professor Chi-San Chu’s article, he mentioned the strategic marketing analysis 4C architecture is key analytical framework. It analyzes company C drug & cosmetic store in the Cost Of Utility, Cost Of Information Search, Cost of Moral Hazard and Cost of Asset Specify four architecture. This strategy using the method from the analysis to explore 4C C drug & cosmetic store in transaction costs in the past performance and future transactions costs for 4C to improve to maintain long-term competitive advantage.

碩士
嘉南藥理科技大學
化妝品科技研究所
94
Cosmetics usually are in accordance with preserve terms by accelerate-aging test method to insure the shelf-lives of the cosmetics, The method used not only takes a lot of time but also lacks of complete quantification of system, so this research studies on the stability of emulsion cosmetic. This research choose ten kinds of emulsion products and one kind of emulsion product developed from laboratory through the accelerate-aging method that the temperature circulation method(50℃→0℃→37℃) and strengthen (7.54x106J/m²→52.78x106J/m²) with the continuous ultraviolet ray under two different aging environment conditions, observing for one day and seven day respectively. By measuring the color、particle distribution size、rheology and other physics and chemical characteristic, Set up a set of assessment systems that can obtain speedily recognizable stability of quantification of system. The study shows that this method can get two kinds of better emulsion products and four kinds of products which cause phase separation by observing physics and chemical characteristic in one day, and receive four conclusions appraising the stability of emulsion by comparing the difference before and after aging, It shows as follows: (1)When the particle distribution variation keep under 10µm, representing the emulsion products can get higher stability, (2)When the particle size difference between upper and lower layer is larger than 10µm, the unstable emulsion products appear upper particle distribution is greater than the lower, The result shows the droplet which have smaller density of dispersion phase will float up, (3)When the oil-water ratio difference between upper and lower layer are more than 4%, the water content of upper layer of unstable emulsion products will greater than lower, The result shows the unstable phenomenon of the O/W type will cause phase separation, It may result in separating the phase, (4)pH value difference above 0.5 before and after aging may cause unstable phenomenon that emulsion particle become larger and viscosity become lower. Set up a set of assessment systems can judge within one day whether the products must carry on the stability test procedure in order to deal with the development of a large number of products, economize the stable evaluation time, and offer emulsion products guarantee for improving competitiveness, From the result of stability of emulsion products can also offer the important basis judgment while measuring the emulsion products of cosmetics industry.

碩士
嘉南藥理大學
化粧品應用與管理系
102
This study from 19 kinds of essential oils antibacterial effects of werescreened, based on synergistic combinations of different essential oils, determine the appropriate combination of essential oils antimicrobial agent formulations,And microbiological testing of cosmetics preservative systems impact assessment, as well as product stability testing irritation and further evaluation. Use of paper disk-diffusion method on 19 kinds of essential oils and four commercially available, for detection of the inhibitory activity of Escherichia coli .The results showed that most of the essential oil is a clear zone of inhibition of essential oils A, B, C, D, E, F; Four kinds of commercially available natural antibacterial agent a,b,c,d, where a has only inhibit antimicrobial efficacy. After screened by inhibit efficacy of essential oils and essential oils with different concentrations of a combination of two or more, the other hand also combination of essential oils with antibacterial agents a, use of paper disk-diffusion method screened essential oils in combination with a synergistic effect, the results showed that A, D, E and essential oils commercially available natural antibacterial agent a combination shown to have synergistic effects.10, 40, and 70 fold dilution to be minimum inhibitory concentration(MIC)measured, The results showed that three formulations for E. coli, are presented inhibit the effectiveness. Based on E. coli, P.aeruginosa, S.aureus, yeast and environmental bacteria (space colony bacteria) five kinds of bacteria inhibition test,the proportion natural essential oils antimicrobial formulations of concentration of 0.50% as the use of the added to the three kinds of cosmetic product formulations for toner, serum mask and Cleaning solution, the results confirm natural essential oils antibacterial agent in products for five kinds of bacteria are inhibited.on the other hand skin irritation test, patch test 30 minutes after no confirmed erythema and allergic reactions, While the stability of the product on the exterior color and odor are no significant differences. According to the study results confirm that natural essential oils antibacterial agent added at a concentration of 0.50% is inhibiting the use of performance.In the future will be used in cosmetic product formulations of preservative and having to replace property value.

碩士
嘉南藥理大學
化粧品應用與管理系
102
The microbes affect stability of the cosmetics and some microorganisms may cause adverse effects of skin, such as breeding of Propionibacterium acnes can cause inflammation of sebaceous glands or follicles on skin produce acne, is a common skin disorder. Many young people patients become low self-esteem and self-confidence by severity acne. The antibacterial activities of Rheum officinale ethanol extract have P. acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aeruginosa by agar diffusion methods. The inhibition zone diameter were 26.5, 15.9, 8.0, and 8.0 mm, respectively. The results of R. officinale ethanol extract showed significant effect for S. aureus and P. acnes. The ethanol extract of R. officinale was partitioned by different polarity solvent to yield the EtOAc, H2O, n-BuOH, and n-Hexane layers and using the micro-dilution technique to test the S. aureus and P. acnes suppression effect. The result, the inhibition rate of P. acnes, showed the ethanol extract (97.7 %) and EtOAc layer (100 %), the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) was 0.05 mg/ml and 0.03 mg/ml. For the inhibition rate of S. aureus, that ethanol extract, EtOAc layer, H2O layer, and n-BuOH layer have a strong inhibitory effect, 100%, 100%, 99.9%, and 99.8%, respectively. Therefore, the R. officinale used as anti-acne and preservative antibacterial ingredients in cosmetics, to development of new natural anti-acne products.

碩士
大仁科技大學
製藥科技研究所
105
Taiwan Legislative Yuan passed the draft amendment to "Cosmetics Hygiene Management Law" on September 2016. From the definition of cosmetics in countries, the study further organize the relevant provisions of the national cosmetics, review their similarities and differences, and analysis of national cosmetics regulations and management. It is expected to explore the similarities and differences between the current regulations and the revised drafts through the comparison of cosmetic management in each country. According to the paper, we suggest the Government in the future development of cosmetics management can be included in the thinking: 1. Cosmetic related regulations should be amended as soon as possible, including application and functional concepts. Clarifying the definition of cosmetics and drugs. 2. Government and industry should work together to perform cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices in the future. Combined with the ISO 22716 international standard for export marketing. 3. In Draft amendment, Professional cosmetics technical staff can also be stationed in the factory supervision, deployment and manufacturing. Apply for cosmetics licensing system education program should according to the pharmacist certification system of test and teaching and work combined into one. 4. Amendments to the "Cosmetics Hygiene Management Law" to abolish the criminal law to the administrative fines. It is recommended that criminal penalties should be retained to achieve a deterrent effect. 5. Government departments should actively increase research and development of application of Chinese herbal medicine in cosmetics, Draft feasible management to ensure the safety of consumers

碩士
嘉南藥理大學
化粧品應用與管理系
105
Taiwan cosmetics raw materials mostly rely on imports, the local raw materials is quite lacking, so the cosmetics industry is extremely necessary to have the development of local innovative raw materials, this paper will be for the marine and hot springs and other resources, raw materials development. The development content includes all kinds of water sources and potential microbes. The screening strategy is based on the ability of protein decomposition, and the protein in milk is used as the preliminary judgment. The strains isolated from the hot spring and the bacteria isolated from the sea mud, To determine whether it has an enzyme that breaks down the protein. And then with the moisture test and selected in which the effectiveness of the best bacteria to do identification. From the hot springs and seabed mud isolated with a moisturizing bacteria species, the use of milk clarification test, screening of special strains, showing the value of cosmetics applications. Moisturizing test, in different concentrations of seawater can provide 20% moisture increase rate. In contrast to the moisturizing test, when the moisturizing increase rate is higher, the tearing of the stratum corneum is relatively less. Milk clarification test, in different seawater down 91%, but after 90 ℃ heating 1 hour, the rate of decline in turbidity. Summary: This paper develops all kinds of resources applicable to cosmetics, and hopes to provide new ideas for the development of innovative raw materials for raw materials and related industries.