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1
Hollows, Judith Mary. "The cotton spinning industry within East Asian Business systems : firm development in Japan, South Korea, and Hong Kong /." Hong Kong : University of Hong Kong, 1995. http://sunzi.lib.hku.hk/hkuto/record.jsp?B17491460.
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Hollows, Judith Mary. "The cotton spinning industry within East Asian Business systems: firm development in Japan, South Korea, andHong Kong." Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 1995. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B29900852.
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Kilgore, Deborah Katheryn Turner Elizabeth Hayes. "Interweaving history the Texas textile mill and McKinney, Texas, 1903-1968 /." [Denton, Tex.] : University of North Texas, 2009. http://digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc12138.
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Munoni, Chiluba Mercy. "Cotton textile industry in Zambia: The economic viability of revamping Mulungushi Textiles Limited." Master's thesis, University of Cape Town, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/11427/25081.
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The agriculture and manufacturing sectors have been identified and prioritized by the Zambian government as sectors that could contribute significantly to poverty reduction through industrialization and creation of employment. The cotton textile industry is one such industry that cuts across the two sectors. This research paper focuses on the cotton textile industry in Zambia, with specific emphasis on Mulungushi Textiles Limited that was reopened by the Republican President, His Excellency, Mr. Edgar Chagwa Lungu in August 2016 after having been closed for about a decade. To this end, the main objective of the research paper is to analyze the economic viability of revamping Mulungushi Textiles Limited by focusing on determinants of viability which included; production cost, government policies and strategies, and institutional arrangements, among others. The study analyzes mainly qualitatively both primary and secondary data. Primary data was principally sourced through interviews and observations, while secondary data was through online and physical sources such as books, reports and other written publications. From the research findings, Mulungushi Textiles Limited factory machinery is obsolete and dilapidated to fully operationalize the business strategic units of ginning, spinning, weaving, dyeing and printing, garment production and cooking oil processing. The study recommends that the factory should undergo a complete overhaul in the long run and in the short run, resume garment production which was identified to be a low hanging fruit. The study concludes that, with the right investment, policies, strategies and concerted efforts from both the public and private sectors, revamping Mulungushi Textiles Limited is economically viable and has great potential to contribute to the government's efforts in promoting inclusive growth through poverty reduction, particularly in rural areas where poverty is mostly prevalent.
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Nishida, Judith Mary. "Japanese influence on the Shanghainese textile industry and implications for Hong Kong." Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 1990. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B31209403.
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Macnaughtan, Helen Joy. "Female labour in Japan's cotton textile industry, 1955-1975." Thesis, London School of Economics and Political Science (University of London), 2001. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.271234.
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Banu, Salma. "Performance of Cotton Textile industry in Bangladesh:an inter sectional survey." Thesis, University of North Bengal, 2001. http://hdl.handle.net/123456789/310.
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Bhadra, Sidhartha. "Status of the cotton textile industry in Birbhum, Burdwan and Hooglly districts of Burdwan division during 1757-1857: a critical overview." Thesis, University of North Bengal, 2015. http://ir.nbu.ac.in/handle/123456789/1524.
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Fassihi, Ali Akbar. "The further development, optimisation and application of a Yarn Dismantler." Thesis, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University, 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/10948/d1016066.
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The fibre properties of cotton, which vary widely according to genetic and environmental conditions, determine its price and textile processing performance and product quality. It is therefore hardly surprising that cotton fibre properties are routinely measured for trading and quality control purposes, with a great deal of research having been, and still being, devoted towards developing instruments which enable the various fibre properties to be measured rapidly and accurately. In many cases, it is also necessary to be able to measure properties of cotton fibres when they have already been converted into yarn and fabric form. To do so, the yarn has to be dismantled into its component fibres, preferably without significantly changing the fibre properties. This could only be done by manually untwisting the yarn and carefully extracting the fibres from the untwisted yarn, care being taken not to break or lose any fibres in the process. This is a time consuming, laborious and labour intensive process. In view of this, a „yarn dismantler‟ which could automatically, cost effectively and within acceptable time frames, dismantle a cotton yarn into its constituent fibres, without undue damage or changes to the fibres, was developed and patented. This thesis reports the results of research undertaken to further develop, evaluate and optimize the yarn dismantler into the final prototype, as well as those relating to its practical applications, including tracking changes in fibre properties during miniature and pilot scale processing, up to, and including the yarn stage. Initial research undertaken on the original bench and first prototype models indicated that, although they produced very promising results, certain improvements and modifications were necessary, if the dismantler was to perform in an efficient and operator friendly manner at the required speeds. These included changes in the axial position of the untwisting spindle and the perforated screen of the suction drum, increasing the air suction at the perforated drum, installing a new motor for the untwisting spindle drive, separating the drives to the different parts of the unit in order to control them independently, integrating a more effective steaming unit into the unit etc. It was found that the dismantling rate had to be set to equal about 95 percent of the original twist in the yarn, and that steaming of the dismantled (untwisted) yarn on the perforated drum was necessary in order to eliminate any twist liveliness (residual torque) in the dismantled yarn, and enable it to be handled and tested on the AFIS instrument. When the final prototype Yarn Dismantler was produced, incorporating all the above mentioned improvements, it functioned very well at dismantling speeds of at least 2m/min, enabling the length of yarn required for subsequent AFIS testing to be dismantled within an acceptable time of less than 10 minutes, with excellent reproducibility and repeatability of results, also under commercial conditions. It was found that the AFIS measured length characteristics of fibres from the instrument dismantled yarns compared very well with those of fibres from manually dismantled yarns, differences in fibre length generally being less than 1mm, and it was concluded from these and other evaluation tests, that the yarn dismantler produced fibres without any significant fibre breakage. Some limited tests, carried out on commercially produced carded and combed yarns, indicated that short fibre content and dust and trash levels, as measured by the AFIS on fibres from dismantled yarn, together with the corresponding Uster Statistics, could enable a carded cotton yarn to be distinguished from a combed cotton yarn. Statistical analysis of fibre test results obtained at the different stages during miniature and pilot plant scale processing of various cottons, clearly showed that very significant changes in fibre properties could be caused by certain of the processes. For example, significant fibre breakage occurred during the drafting on the spinning frame, prior to twist insertion. The thesis provides detailed results of changes in various fibre properties, including length, short fibre content, maturity, immature fibre content, seed coat neps and fibrous neps, which occurred from the lint to the final yarn, as well as on the relationship between the properties of the fibres from the dismantled yarn and those from the lint. The results obtained have clearly demonstrated the practical value of the yarn dismantler in enabling yarns to be automatically dismantled into their constituent fibres, which can then be tested by an instrument, such as the AFIS, and the test results related to those of the original lint fibres, thereby opening up many fields of research and practical applications, some of which are captured under „Recommended Further Work‟.
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Fleischman, Richard K. "Conditions of life among the cotton workers of southeastern Lancashire, 1780-1850." New York : Garland Pub, 1985. http://books.google.com/books?id=KXcyAAAAMAAJ.
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Launert, Frederika. "The role of design in the Lancashire cotton industry, 1900-1939." Thesis, University of Central Lancashire, 2002. http://clok.uclan.ac.uk/19297/.
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This thesis is concerned with the influence of the merchant converter on design practice in the Lancashire cotton industry in the period 1900-1939. The thesis aims to supplement the existing design histories of the industry by focusing, firstly, upon the role of design in the context of the industrial and commercial organisation of the industry, and secondly, by examining the practice of design in relation to the export trade in cotton goods. The Lancashire cotton industry had a unique structure that facilitated the production of a wide variety of cotton piece goods that serviced the needs of consumers in markets across the globe. Despite the enormous decline of the inter-war years, in which the major markets of China and India were dramatically reduced, the industry was able to maintain a significant export trade in cotton piece goods. The successful sale of these goods depended in part upon the successful interpretation of consumer preferences by their designers. Lancashire employed a large number of designers who worked either in the employ of manufacturers or on a freelance basis. The thesis examines the different categories of designer who supplied designs to the Lancashire industry, including their education and working practices. It also investigates the relationship between the designer and the agents who employed them. Lancashire's ability to respond appropriately to consumer demands played a significant part in establishing and maintaining exports to markets such as West Africa. A case study of the West African market illustrates the mechanisms that made this response possible. It also emphasises the importance of established merchant organisations that provided the links between consumer, manufacturer and designer. The case study underlines the key relationship between the communication of market information and the production of commercially successful designs. The thesis also addresses the issue of government intervention into an industry that was faced with increasing economic hardship as a result of the loss of markets worldwide. Design was not at the forefront of government policy in respect to the Lancashire cotton industry. Nonetheless, design issues were increasingly associated with government attempts to improve the trade in manufactured goods during the inter-war period, and this is particularly evident in the activities of the Board of Trade. The thesis evaluates the activities of two government organisations, the Council for Art and Industry and the Department of Overseas Trade, their reception by merchants and manufacturers of the day, and assesses the strengths and weaknesses of the contribution they made to the industry.
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O'Neill, Cliona. "Combined anaerobic-aerobic treatment of a simulated textile effluent." Thesis, University of South Wales, 1999. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.365088.
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Toms, John Steven. "The finance and growth of the Lancashire cotton textile industry, 1870-1914." Thesis, University of Nottingham, 1996. http://eprints.nottingham.ac.uk/11029/.
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Using accounting records and financial data, a business history of the Lancashire textile industry from 1870 to 1914 is presented. Issues of technology and industry structure, which have attracted a great deal of comment are first re-addressed. The discussion is then widened to include other aspects of the industry which have previously been neglected, namely the social processes of capital accumulation with reference to those evolving relationships between managers and shareholders which, in the context of broader economic change, helped forge the special characteristics of Lancashire capitalism. The industry is found to be generally healthy and competitive, although its fortunes were dangerously dependent on the overseas value of the pound. Whilst the original technologies of the industrial revolution were maturing, the alternative twentieth century means of automated throughput had still not been developed. External economies and flexibility associated with vertical specialisation thus continued to outweigh those of integrated throughput production. Meanwhile a transformation of the industry occurred in terms of its ownership, as the previously influential small shareholder was forced to surrender influence to a rising class of promotional and financial capitalists, a trend accentuated by, inter alia, a very serious stock exchange crash in the 1890s which forced many to sell their holdings. A shift of industry value added from labour to capital and record profits after 1900 are identified. These attracted capital into cotton and reinforced the position of the newer owners of the industry. Important features of their behaviour are examined, primarily their ability to construct impressive business empires through personal shareholdings and interference in day to day management, and their corresponding reluctance to establish professional management hierarchies, which, although increasingly common in other industries, were compromised by preference for individual, and not corporate, accumulation. Characterised as they were by their easy access to financial resources, these new capitalists might well have made sweeping changes to industry structure and technology had they chosen to do so. However, although ring spinning was found to be in general more profitable, the basis of that superiority was an extension of the process of increased specialisation. All specialised companies, whether ring spinners, mule spinners, or weavers, tended to do much better than their vertically integrated counterparts in the period after 1900. Evidence from this period has implications for our understanding of subsequent developments. If the industry could have been restructured before 1914, then so it could have been after the First World War when it arguably became more necessary. Pre 1914 technical constraints are identified and it is also noted that it was in the inter-war period that the means to remove them were fully developed. However, considering technical issues in conjunction with characteristics of capital ownership, it is concluded that, as the industry failed to attract investment when profit signals turned negative, for example in the 1890s, and attracted a lot of capital in the booms of the early 1900s, any constraint did exist to prevent restructuring it was financial rather than organisational. The process and character of capital accumulation is therefore advanced as a crucial ingredient of our understanding of business history. In short, the established financial, technical, and organisational structure, when combined with buoyant overseas monetary and trading conditions, is found to have created the synthesis of a profitable industry; when external conditions changed, financial, technical, and organisational constraints became important but in that strict and steeply descending order. Lancashire was highly vulnerable to the world market; that vulnerability was accentuated by the way in which capital was created. It was the social process of capital accumulation which was the principal determinant of the development, and perhaps therefore ultimately the decline, of a once great industry.
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Kilgore, Deborah Katheryn. "Interweaving History: The Texas Textile Mill and McKinney, Texas, 1903-1968." Thesis, University of North Texas, 2009. https://digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc12138/.
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Texas textile mills comprise an untold part of the modern South. The bulk of Texas mills were built between 1890 and 1925, a compressed period of expansion in contrast to the longer developmental pattern of mills in the rest of the United States. This compression meant that Texas mill owners benefited from knowledge gained from mill expansion elsewhere, and owners ran their mills along the same lines as the dominant southeastern model. Owners veered from the established pattern when conditions warranted. This case study focuses on three mills in Texas that operated both independently and as a corporation for a total of sixty years. One mill in McKinney dominated the economy of a small town and serves as the primary focus of this paper. A second mill in Waco served a diversified economy in the center of the state; and the third mill, built in Dallas was concentrated in a major city in a highly competitive job market. All three of these mills will illuminate the single greatest difference between Texas mills and mills elsewhere, the composition of the labor force. Women did not dominate the mill labor force in Texas nor did children, except in limited cases, make-up a large portion of the workers. Today mill studies of southern mills have found only scattered textile factories with a preponderance of male employees, but in Texas this was the norm. This study demonstrates the unique features of McKinney's textile mill and its similarities to other mills in Texas and in the southeast.
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Bel, Patricia Damian. "Cotton quality - fibre to fabric: fibre properties relationships to fabric quality." University of Southern Queensland, Faculty of Engineering and Surveying, 2004. http://eprints.usq.edu.au/archive/00003193/.
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[Abstract]: The textile industry has a recurrent white speck nep problem in cotton. “White specks” are immature clusters of fibres that are not visible as defects until dyeing, after which they remain white on the surface of a darkly dyed fabric, or appear as non uniform streaks in the fabric. Both results render the fabric unsuitable for commercial fashion fabrics. The white speck potential of cotton is difficult to predict except in extremely immature cottons. Competitive synthetic fibres are uniform in length and strength and never have a maturity problem resulting in dye defects. They are much more predictable in the mill. As a result, cotton faces the risk of being replaced by synthetic fibres. Industry requires a method to predict fabric quality from cotton bale fibre properties to minimize this risk. This research addresses the problem of predicting white specks in dyed cotton fabrics. It is part of a large study, which is supported jointly by US and Australian agencies. The main objective is to predict fabric quality from bale fibre properties given controlled gin and mill processing. Gin and mill processing must be controlled so that field and varietal effects can be seen without the interaction of mechanical processing differences. This results in achieving other objectives, including the provision of baseline data for Australian varieties, ginning effects and comparison of ring and open-end spinning. Initially a reliable method for measuring white specks had to be found. Several systems have been evaluated and are reported here. The systems accuracy was compared using fabrics from the US Extreme Variety Study (EVS), which was grown specifically to have different levels of white specks. The fabrics made from the US (Leading Variety Study 1993 (LVS) and The American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) Cotton Variety Processing Trials, 2001) and the Australian (1998 & 1999) variety studies were analysed using AutoRate-2-03, the best of the image analysis systems studied. The final release of AutoRate (February 2003) was developed by Dr. Bugao Xu to measure white specks on dark fabrics in conjunction with this research. This final analysis of these studies results in white speck prediction equations from high-speed fibre measurement systems. This information should be immediately useful to as a tool to measure the effects of field and ginning practices on the levels of white specks without having to carry the research out to finished fabrics. Cotton breeders will be able to use the equations in the development of new varieties with low white speck potential, by eliminating varieties with high white speck potential early on. The research will continue on a much larger scale in the US and hopefully a WSP (White Speck Potential) value will be incorporated into the US Cotton Grading System.
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Thompson, Holland. "From the cotton field to the cotton mill a study of the industrial transition in North Carolina /." [Chapel Hill, N.C.] : Academic Affairs Library, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, 2001. http://docsouth.unc.edu/nc/thompson/menu.html.
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Thesis (Ph. D.)--Columbia University.Title from electronic title page (viewed Aug. 26, 2002). This electronic edition is part of the UNC-CH digitization project's database, Documenting the American South. It is a part of the collection The North Carolina experience, beginnings to 1940. Text scanned (OCR) by Apex Data Services, Inc. Images scanned by Tammy Evans. Text encoded by Apex Data Services, Inc., Melissa Meeks and Natalia Smith. Includes bibliographical references.
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Pitcher, M. Anne. "A triad of interest : the Estado Novo, the Portuguese textile industry and Colonial cotton production under Salazar." Thesis, University of Oxford, 1988. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.253982.
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Gum, Russell L., and William E. Martin. "Economic Impacts of Biotechnical Innovations in the U.S. and Arizona Dairy and Cotton Industries." College of Agriculture, University of Arizona (Tucson, AZ), 1990. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/310801.
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Tate, Jonathan Graham. "Industry, technology and the political economy of empire : Lancashire industrialists and the cotton supply question, c.1850-1910." Thesis, University of Aberdeen, 2015. http://digitool.abdn.ac.uk:80/webclient/DeliveryManager?pid=228009.
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The role of nineteenth-century industrialists in British imperial expansion and governance has been debated for many years. Major recent interpretations, such as Peter Cain and Tony Hopkins's 'gentlemanly capitalism' and Gary Magee and Andrew Thompson's 'cultural economy', have conceived industrialists' involvement mostly in terms of promoting manufactured exports. Industrialists' reliance on imported raw materials has however been comparatively neglected. Using the case of study of raw cotton, nineteenth-century Britain's most valuable industrial commodity import, this thesis revises how we understand the contribution Lancashire industrialists made to the formation of imperial policy. Analysing examples from the formal and informal empire in India, Egypt, and sub-Saharan Africa, it shows that interactions between technology, business lobbying, and ideas of political economy fostered cotton-growing schemes. Fluctuations in the quantity and, significantly, the quality of cotton supplies fostered interest in reforming or creating new supply chains, promoting the formation of business associations, pre-eminently the Cotton Supply Association and the British Cotton Growing Association. These associations lobbied governments to make supply chains more suited to Lancashire technological systems, and led to the promotion of standardised cotton types through the export of European knowledge and skills, the erection of processing machinery and transportation systems, and the regulation of colonial labour. The main argument is that if the focus is shifted to supplies rather than markets, industrialists, directly and indirectly, were often important influences on imperial governance and overseas economic change. While fiscal and financial considerations often provided the framework for government-backed cotton-growing schemes, because cotton was a complex commodity officials had to implement industrialists' advice to create supply chains that would serve these ends. By providing fresh insights for understanding the relationship between supply chains, business mobilisation, and European imperialism, this thesis lays the foundations for further much-needed work on the 'supply-side' economics of global empires.
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Hort, Per Bolin. "Work, family and the State : Child labour and the organization of production in the British cotton industry 1780-1920 /." Lund : Bromley : Lund university press ; Chartwell-Bratt, 1989. http://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb35516679h.
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Kirkey, Stephanie Ann. "From the friendly city to the Seaway city, the impacts of deindustrialization and the St. Lawrence Seaway and power project on the Seaway Valley." Thesis, National Library of Canada = Bibliothèque nationale du Canada, 1997. http://www.collectionscanada.ca/obj/s4/f2/dsk2/ftp04/mq22332.pdf.
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Gupta, Kishor Kumar. "Polyvinyl alcohol size recovery and reuse via vacuum flash evaporation." Diss., Atlanta, Ga. : Georgia Institute of Technology, 2009. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/28181.
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Thesis (M. S.)--Polymer, Textile and Fiber Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 2009.Committee Chair: Dr. Cook, Fred L.; Committee Member: Dr. Carr, Wallace W.; Committee Member: Dr. Parachuru, Radhakrishnaiah; Committee Member: Dr. Realff, Matthew J.; Committee Member: Dr. Muzzy, John D.
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Vacheron, Simon. "Mobiliser l’industrie textile (laine et coton). L’État, les entrepreneurs et les ouvriers dans l’effort de guerre, 1914-1920." Thesis, Paris 4, 2017. http://www.theses.fr/2017PA040139.
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Au cours de la Première Guerre mondiale, les industries de la laine et du coton se retrouvent entraînées dans la mobilisation industrielle. L’intervention de l’État dans ces branches se révèle indispensable, et une nouvelle relation s’établit entre la puissance publique et les entreprises. La modification de la teinte de l’uniforme, sa large diffusion à près de huit millions d’appelés sur quatre ans et la perte des bassins industriels du Nord et de l’Est conduisent à la mise sous contrôle de l’État de presque toute l’industrie lainière, tandis que l’industrie cotonnière reste indépendante jusqu’en 1917. Cette relation s’étend jusque dans les importations de matières premières, avec une centralisation progressive qui exclut le commerce privé, mais associe négociants et industriels. En outre, la gestion de la main-d’œuvre constitue un défi quotidien pour les entreprises. Le besoin de travailleurs reste important, et les difficultés liées aux conditions de travail et au renchérissement de la vie entraînent des tensions sociales, malgré l’Union sacrée observée par les organisations syndicales. Dans le même temps, la perte des principaux territoires industriels représente une aubaine pour les autres régions, dont celles dont l’industrie textile est sur le déclin avant la guerre. Les fortes demandes de l’armée et les hauts prix du commerce privé entraînent des bénéfices importants, et conduisent l’État à adopter une fiscalité de guerre et réprimer les abus. Le retour des industries sinistrées à la fin du conflit, la question des dommages de guerre et la réintégration de l’Alsace-Lorraine mettent les industries textiles face à des changements radicauxDuring the World War I, the industries of the wool and the cotton find themselves pulled(entailed) in the industrial mobilization. The intervention of the State in these branches shows itself essential, and a new relation becomes established between the public authorities and the companies. The modification of the colour of the uniform, its wide distribution about eight million conscripts over four years and the loss of the industrial areas of the North and east lead to the putting under control of the State of almost all the wool trade, whereas the cotton industry remains independent until 1917. This relation extends to the imports of raw materials, with a progressive centralization which excludes any private business(trade), but associates traders and industrialists. Besides, the management of the workforce constitutes a daily challenge for companies. The need in workforce remains important, and the difficulties bound in working conditions and to the increased cost living trigger social tensions, in spite of the “Union sacrée” respected by labor unions. At the same time, the loss of the main industrial territories represents a chance of a lifetime for the other regions, among which those whose textile industry is on the decline before the war. The high demands of the army and the high prices of private trade yeld important profits, and lead the State to adopt a war tax system and to repress the abuses. The return of the stricken industries at the end the conflict, the question of war damage and reinstatement of Alsace-Lorraine put the textile industries in the face of radical changes
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Boyle, Kathleen Marie. "Organic Cotton Clothing: Is it Helping to Raise the Bottom?" University of Akron / OhioLINK, 2014. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=akron1405433458.
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Kassaee, Massoud. "Linkage of Business and Manufacturing Strategies as a Determinant of Enterprise Performance: an Empirical Study in the Textile Industry." Thesis, University of North Texas, 1992. https://digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc278687/.
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The main question in this study was: do business units that exhibit a "linkage" or "fit" between their business strategy and manufacturing strategy variables, outperform competitors who lack such a fit? This exploratory research focused on two business strategies: cost leadership and differentiation. Based on existing literature, twenty-four hypotheses concerning the relationship between business strategy and selected manufacturing strategy variables were developed. The manufacturing executives of eighty-eight broadwoven cotton fabric mills (SIC 2211) were surveyed using a qualitative questionnaire. Two sets of comparisons were made between the manufacturing strategy variables of the sampled firms: first, high vs. low performers pursuing cost leadership strategy; and second, high vs. low performers focusing on differentiation strategy. Within each set of comparisons, high performers reported linkage between their business strategies and selected manufacturing strategy variables. This study re-affirms the importance of linking business strategy with manufacturing strategy variables as a forceful weapon for overcoming competition.
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Grilli, Piero. "Environmental impacts of circular scenarios for the textile industry : A planetary boundaries-based life cycle assessment of cotton t-shirt." Thesis, Stockholms universitet, Stockholm Resilience Centre, 2018. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:su:diva-194682.
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Planetary Boundaries (PB) and Circular Economy (CE) are becoming the paradigm for sustainability. There is an increasing interest to operationalise PB into a framework for businesses to maximise profitability within environmental limits. The context of the cotton textile industry makes a good setting for understanding the casual chain of connections between the socio-economic system expressed by extensive global supply chain of cotton, and its ecological interconnection with the Earth’s system that is put under pressure. For this study, life cycle assessment (LCA) is recognised as a suitable approach for measuring the linkages between those two systems. Results show that among all phases of the life cycle of a cotton t-shirt, the usage phase is the most impacting for most of environmental indicators, followed by the manufacturing and farming phase. Production or extraction of raw material as elements considered upstream in the supply chain are the predominant cause of impacts in this case study. Increasing circularity of the system yields to an improvement in environmental performance. However, the system remains largely unsustainable when taking into account the state of the Earth’s system, through the PB. When assessing sustainability through LCA, ecological references like PB, must be considered to understand absolute environmental sustainability a product system. This will reveal whether less impacting options in the system, are still deteriorating a state of the environment as a part of the Earth’s system, which needs to be the area of protection. In conclusion, linking planetary boundaries to life cycle assessment can help assess the absolute environmental sustainability, as opposed to relative sustainability, of a production system. Combining an assessment of the state of the environment (safe, critical/uncertain, at risk), and the assessment of environmental hotspots of the system under scrutiny, will determine where priority for goals and actions of improvements for environmental sustainability needs most attention.
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Edgerton, D. E. H. "State intervention in British manufacturing industry, 1931-1951 : a comparative study of policy for the military aircraft and cotton textile industries." Thesis, Imperial College London, 1986. http://hdl.handle.net/10044/1/7646.
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Vacheron, Simon. "Mobiliser l’industrie textile (laine et coton). L’État, les entrepreneurs et les ouvriers dans l’effort de guerre, 1914-1920." Electronic Thesis or Diss., Paris 4, 2017. http://www.theses.fr/2017PA040139.
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Au cours de la Première Guerre mondiale, les industries de la laine et du coton se retrouvent entraînées dans la mobilisation industrielle. L’intervention de l’État dans ces branches se révèle indispensable, et une nouvelle relation s’établit entre la puissance publique et les entreprises. La modification de la teinte de l’uniforme, sa large diffusion à près de huit millions d’appelés sur quatre ans et la perte des bassins industriels du Nord et de l’Est conduisent à la mise sous contrôle de l’État de presque toute l’industrie lainière, tandis que l’industrie cotonnière reste indépendante jusqu’en 1917. Cette relation s’étend jusque dans les importations de matières premières, avec une centralisation progressive qui exclut le commerce privé, mais associe négociants et industriels. En outre, la gestion de la main-d’œuvre constitue un défi quotidien pour les entreprises. Le besoin de travailleurs reste important, et les difficultés liées aux conditions de travail et au renchérissement de la vie entraînent des tensions sociales, malgré l’Union sacrée observée par les organisations syndicales. Dans le même temps, la perte des principaux territoires industriels représente une aubaine pour les autres régions, dont celles dont l’industrie textile est sur le déclin avant la guerre. Les fortes demandes de l’armée et les hauts prix du commerce privé entraînent des bénéfices importants, et conduisent l’État à adopter une fiscalité de guerre et réprimer les abus. Le retour des industries sinistrées à la fin du conflit, la question des dommages de guerre et la réintégration de l’Alsace-Lorraine mettent les industries textiles face à des changements radicauxDuring the World War I, the industries of the wool and the cotton find themselves pulled(entailed) in the industrial mobilization. The intervention of the State in these branches shows itself essential, and a new relation becomes established between the public authorities and the companies. The modification of the colour of the uniform, its wide distribution about eight million conscripts over four years and the loss of the industrial areas of the North and east lead to the putting under control of the State of almost all the wool trade, whereas the cotton industry remains independent until 1917. This relation extends to the imports of raw materials, with a progressive centralization which excludes any private business(trade), but associates traders and industrialists. Besides, the management of the workforce constitutes a daily challenge for companies. The need in workforce remains important, and the difficulties bound in working conditions and to the increased cost living trigger social tensions, in spite of the “Union sacrée” respected by labor unions. At the same time, the loss of the main industrial territories represents a chance of a lifetime for the other regions, among which those whose textile industry is on the decline before the war. The high demands of the army and the high prices of private trade yeld important profits, and lead the State to adopt a war tax system and to repress the abuses. The return of the stricken industries at the end the conflict, the question of war damage and reinstatement of Alsace-Lorraine put the textile industries in the face of radical changes
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Giordano, João Batista. "Tratamento corona sobre superficies texteis." [s.n.], 2007. http://repositorio.unicamp.br/jspui/handle/REPOSIP/266145.
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Orientador: João Sinezio de Carvalho CamposTese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Engenharia Quimica
Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-10T13:40:00Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Giordano_JoaoBatista_D.pdf: 4390680 bytes, checksum: 205aa7153da8e4745f9366e58adcb8cf (MD5) Previous issue date: 2007
Resumo: Dentre as técnicas de modificação de superfícies aplicadas na indústria para melhorar adesão, o tratamento por descarga corona é amplamente utilizado. Durante o tratamento por descarga coro na, espécies ativas são geradas, as quais podem reagir com a superfície do polímero ocasionando quebra de cadeias e formação de radicais, criando assim grupos polares na superfície e conseqüentemente, aumentando a sua energia superficial e propriedade de adesão. Neste trabalho utilizaram-se tecidos de poliéster e de algodão. Nos processos convencionais de preparação de tecidos são usados agentes químicos que agridem os efluentes têxteis, assim a descarga corona propõe-se como tratamento prévio do material sem ação de tais agentes, sendo tratamento único e apenas físico. Os objetivos deste trabalho são: 1. Tratar com descarga corona tecidos de poliéster e tecidos de algodão (engomado, lavado e desengomado); 2. Verificar hidrofilidade e absorção de corantes em tecidos de algodão tratados com descarga corona; 3. Verificar propriedades mecânicas em tecidos tratados com descarga corona. 4. Verificar a adesão de pigmentos em de tecidos de poliéster tratados com corona. Tecidos foram submetidos à descarga: corona variando-se o tempo exposição e altura entre os eletrodos, em seguida foi realizada testes de hídrofilidade, absorção de corante tipo reativo, adesão de pigmentos, solidez a lavagem e ensaios de resistência à tração e alongamento. Foi utilizada a técnica de microscopia óptica, ensaio de hidrofilidade para caracterizar os efeitos causados. Os resultados mostram que: houve aumento da hidrofilidade do tecido de algodão que de 50% em amostra sem tratamento passou até a 280% com o tratamento, observou-se também que com te~pos de 1 mino já ocorrem modificações nos tecidos quanto a hidrofilidade e absorção de corantes; houve aumento da absorção de corante nas regiões tratadas principalmente em processos contínuos de tingimento; ocorreu boa aderência de pigmentos em tecidos de poliéster tratados; não ocorrem alteração das propriedades mecânicas (resistência a tração e alongamento) nas amostras tratadas.
Abstract: Amongst the techniques of modification of surfaces applied in the industry to improve adhesion, the treatment for discharge corona widely is used. During the treatment for discharge corona, active species are generated, which can consequently react with the surface of polymer causing chain in addition and formation of radicals, thus creating polar groups in the surface and, increasing its superficial energy and property of adhesion. In this work they had been used weaveed of polyester and cotton. In the conventional processes of fabric preparation they are used chemical agents whom the effluent textile attack, thus the discharge corona is considered as previous treatment of the material without action of such agents, being treatment only e only physicist. The objectives of this work are: 1.To deal with discharge corona weaveed to polyester and fabrics cotton (starchy, washed and dissolved the gum); 2. To verify water absorption and absorption of corantes in fabrics of cotton treated with discharge corona; to 3.Verificar mechanical properties in fabrics dealt with discharge corona. 4. To verify the pigment adhesion in of treated polyester fabrics with corona. Fabrics had been submitted to the discharge corona varying the time exposition and height between the electrodes and, after that water absorption tests had been carried through, absorption of corante reactive type, pigment adhesion, solidity the laudering and assays of tensile strenght and allonge. The technique of optic microscopy was used, assay of water absorption to characterize the caused effect. The results show that: it had increase of the hidrofilidade of the cotton fabric that of 50% in sample without treatment passed until 280% with the treatment, was 9.lso observed that with times of 1 min. already the water absorption and absorption of corantes occur modifications in fabrics how much; it had increase of the absorption of corante in the regions treated mainly in continuous processes of dyeing good pigment tack occurred in treat polyester fabrics; they do not occur alteration of the mechanical properties (resistance the traction and allonge) in the treated samples.
Doutorado
Ciencia e Tecnologia de Materiais
Doutor em Engenharia Química
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Sundin, Mårten. "Från vaggan till grinden, en livscykelinventering på ett par bomullsbyxor." Thesis, Linköping University, Department of Thematic Studies, 2002. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:liu:diva-1633.
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Our common future involves many important challenges. People and nature need to improve the relationship in order to reach an ecologically sustainable development. In a society where consumption of products steadily increases, the consumer awareness about social and environmental issues connected to the products becomes an importent factor. More and more companies choose to work more actively with these issues and more and more products get labelled by some of the eco labelling organisations. From the cradle to the gate means that a study has been done on a part of a products life cycle. In this master thesis a pair of cotton trousers has been followed from the cotton field and through the manufacturing chain in order to sees how much resource that are connected to the cultivation and to the production. Methological approach has been Life Cycle Inventory (LCI) according to ISO 14040. The empirical material is collected in South India, in an area known for its intense cotton manufacturing.
Studies like this can be a good way of showing the environmental impacts of a certain product. LCI can for example work as a criterion for eco labelling, but the methodology could also support the overall environmental work in companies.
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Munshi, Farzana. "Essays on globalization and occupational wages." Göteborg : Dep. of Economics, School of Business, Economics and Law, Göteborg Univ, 2008. http://www.gbv.de/dms/zbw/56139718X.pdf.
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Univ., Diss.--Göteborg, 2008.Enth. 4 Beitr. Zsfassung in engl. Sprache. Trade liberalization and wage inequality--empirical evidence from Bangladesh / by Dick Durevall and Farzana Munshi -- Does openness reduce wage inequality in developing countries? Panel data evidence from Bangladesh / by Farzana Munshi -- Globalization and inter-occupational inequality in a panel of countries, 1983-2003 / by Farzana Munshi -- Offshoring and occupational wages--some empirical evidence / by Arne Bigsten, Dick Durevall, and Farzana Munshi.
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Beato, King Raquel. "La industria textil fabril en la zona centro de México, 1830-1910. Estudio por regiones." Doctoral thesis, Universitat de Barcelona, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10803/673285.
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Esta tesis analiza el devenir histórico de la industria textil fabril en la zona centro de México, desde sus inicios en 1830 hasta 1910 cuando tiene lugar el final del Porfiriato. Su temprano arranque la constituyó en la primera industria de transformación en México y en el contexto latinoamericano. El producto elaborado mayoritariamente en las fábricas textiles fue la tela burda de algodón, conocida como manta, de amplia demanda popular y de múltiples usos, presente en la sociedad mexicana desde tiempos prehispánicos, por lo que esta tesis inicia reconstruyendo históricamente la manufactura de este tipo de bien en la larga duración. Con ello, se busca explicar que la flamante industria fabril de algodón de principios del siglo XIX se montó sobre un mercado previamente probado a cargo, entonces, de la comunidad indígena y el taller artesanal. Entre 1830 y 1910 la novedosa industria se caracterizó por multiplicar el número de fábricas y por presentar una tendencia francamente ascendente en lo que hace a producción y capacidad técnica instalada en la zona centro. Con la finalidad de alcanzar un análisis a mayor profundidad, la investigación aborda esta zona desde una óptica regional estudiando el comportamiento del fenómeno fabril en las distintas regiones que la conforman: Occidente, Centro, El Bajío y Oriente. Sustentado en fuentes cuantitativas de la época (estadísticas históricas), la trayectoria industrial es examinada bajo 5 cortes temporales (1843, 1854, 1877, 1901 y 1910) que toman el pulso a ese devenir tanto a nivel nacional, de zona como para cada una de las regiones en cuanto a número de fábricas, husos, telares, producción, fuerza de trabajo, dimensiones fabriles, entre otros. Por su parte, las fuentes primarias obtenidas de archivos de fábricas, municipales, estatales y nacionales a la par de las hemerográficas, las entrevistas y las estancias de campo efectuadas, posibilitaron -junto con las fuentes secundarias- un análisis cualitativo del problema de estudio al incorporar otros aspectos inherentes al mismo como son los determinantes geográficos y la localización fabril, materia prima, fuerza de motriz, empresariado,
proceso productivo, circulación, mercados, por nombrar los más importantes. El análisis cuantitativo y cualitativo instrumentado revela la existencia de procesos convergentes y divergentes entre las regiones en el largo tiempo gracias a la construcción de una visión de conjunto. Finalmente, la investigación concluye en que el crecimiento de la producción, impulsado por nuevas energías y por la renovación de la planta industrial, y auspiciada por el ferrocarril, culminó en una temprana sustitución de importaciones de productos baratos de algodón, particularmente británicos. El estudio, asimismo, pone de manifiesto que la maquinaria fue sistemáticamente importada desde países avanzados industrialmente durante todo el periodo que abarca esta tesis, lo que si bien propició un destacado crecimiento industrial no se tradujo en una industrialización autosostenida.
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Åker, Zeander Jonas. "Från Bomull till Byxor Livscykel Inventering och Ansvarsfullt Företagande En MFS i Södra Indien." Thesis, Linköping University, Department of Thematic Studies, 2002. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:liu:diva-1634.
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A growing number of companies realise that to achieve their environmental goals and satisfy stakeholder expectations, they need to look beyond their own facilities and to involve their suppliers in environmental initiatives. A life cycle approach means that the production system should be optimised as whole, across national boarders and individual organisations taking part all the way from extraction to disposal. This study is a Life Cycle Inventory of resources used when producing a piece of cotton garment and the method is based on the standardisation series of ISO 14040-43. The area of study, Tamil Nadu the most southern state of India, accounts for more than 90% of India’s knitwear exports to Western Europe. The main conclusion is that the Life Cycle Inventory could bean appropriate method to be used within the textile industry but the main advantage may not be in solving problems but instead framing them in a distinctive way and making people aware of them. An approach that combines life cycle and sustainability concepts could be a way towards enhanced corporate responsibility.
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Frydrych, Richard. "Contribution à l'étude du collage du coton au moyen de méthodes mécaniques et thermomécaniques." Mulhouse, 1996. http://www.theses.fr/1996MULH0439.
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Des cotons collants collent en filature suite à la présence dans la fibre de substances sucrées ou miellats, provenant des déjections du puceron et de l'aleurode. Ils entraînent des encrassements de machines, des casses du fil et une dépréciation de sa qualité. Nous avons amélioré et mis au point des méthodes et des matériels pour détecter ces cotons collants. Vers 1980, la minicarde de laboratoire a été utilisée ; les conditions opératoires de ce test qualitatif ont été déterminées pour évaluer les degrés de collage. En 1990, le test à la minicarde a été adopté par l'ITMF sous la référence 410/R90. Puis, la mise au point d'un thermodétecteur a permis de faire des tests quantitatifs en 4 min. Les conditions opératoires ont été définies ; distribution des points collants et précision des résultats, plage d'humidité relative pour réaliser le test. Nous avons évalué l'évolution du collage au cours du temps, ses effets sur processus de filature, sur le filé, puis mis au point une méthode pour l'éliminer. Depuis 1994, le thermodétecteur est recommandé par l'ITMF (référence 420/92). Enfin, un appareil de mesure plus rapide, le H2SD a été mis au point. Il fournit des résultats quantitatifs chaque 30 s, l'intervention humaine se limite à alimenter l'appareil, un analyseur d'image compte et évalue la taille des points collants. La taille et la distribution des points collants ont été étudiées. Les relations entre le nombre de points collants au H2SD et les problèmes en microfilature, ainsi qu'avec la nepposité du fil, ont été déterminées
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Fock, Ah Chuen Michel. "Etat, production et exportation cotonnières, industrie textile et développement économique : une histoire économique du coton-textile dans le monde." Montpellier 1, 1997. http://www.theses.fr/1997MON10040.
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Le travail realise est une analyse de la dynamique a l'echelle mondiale de la production et des echanges du coton/textile (coton fibre, file et tissu de coton) avec la particularite d'une prise en compte explicite du role de l'etat. Notre recherche nous conduit a affirmer qu'il n'y a pas de developpement effectif du coton/textile sans implication de l'etat et que cette derniere est fondee sur le plan economique. La justification resulte d'abord de l'impact positif des activites du coton/textile sur le developpement economique. Elle decoule ensuite de la necessite de reduire les contraintes liees a l'environnement economique de la production cotonniere et de l'industrie textile pour parvenir a un reel developpement du coton/textile. L'implication de l'etat dans le domaine du coton/textile va bien au-dela de la phase de promotion. C'est la consequence de l'effet du renversement de sens de la relation entre les activites du coton/textile et le developpement economique, accentue par la concurrence des pays entres plus recemment dans le coton/textile. La theorie standard du commerce et du developpement permet de comprendre la succession de phases de relation positive puis negative entre les activites du coton/textile et le developpement economique, elle n'explique pas cependant la diversite du declin de l'industrie textile entre des pays a anciennete equivalente dans cette industrie. La notion de "social capability" degagee des etudes sur l'hypothese de convergence tempere le determinisme voire le fatalisme de la theorie utilisee. La dynamique du coton/textile dans le monde est donc d7abord la consequence des relations entre cette activite et le developpement economique. Cette dynamique n'est cependant pas le seul resultat d'un mecanisme economique, ce dernier est accompagne par l'etat, qui l'accentue au depart lorsqu'il est favorable au coton/textile et qui l'entrave au contraire lorsqu'il devient defavorableOur research work is an analysis of the evolution of production and exchange of cotton/textile in the world (cotton fiber, yarn and fabric of cotton). Taking into account the role of the state, we achieve to the conclusion that there is no actual cotton/textile developement without state involvement and that this involvement is economically founded. The rationale of this involvement comes basically from the positive impact of cotton/textile activities on economic development. This involvement is also required in practice to mitigate economic environment constraints against development of new cotton/textile productions. The state involvement in the field of cotton/textile goes beyond the development stage of these activities. This is a consequence of the reversion of the relationship between cotton/textile activities and economic development in the related country, in addition to the international competition from new-comers in cotton/textile production. The standard theory of trade anddevelopment helps to understand the sequence of phases with positive then negative relationship between cotton/textile and economic development, however this theory does not predict diversity of textile industry demise patterns among countries with similar age in this industry. The principle of "social capability" as an output of studies upon the convergence hypothesis allows to alleviate determinism if not fatalism of the theory used. Dynamics of cotton/textile in the world araises basically from the relationship between these activities and economic development. This dynamics is not only the result of an economic mechanism, as this latter is accompanished by the state, who enhanced it when it favors cotton/textile development and who hinders it in the opposite case
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Islam, M. R. "The choice of technique in cotton textiles and its impact on employment in Bangladesh." Thesis, University of Strathclyde, 1985. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.371974.
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Soler, Becerro Raimon. "Estratègies empresarials en la indústria cotonera catalana. El cas de la Fàbrica de la Rambla de Vilanova, 1833-1965." Doctoral thesis, Universitat de Barcelona, 2000. http://hdl.handle.net/10803/81539.
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La tesi estudia el cas d’una de les primeres fàbriques de teixits de cotó que va usar el vapor com a força motriu, coneguda popularment a Vilanova i la Geltrú com la Fàbrica de la Rambla o també com Manufacturas El Fénix SA. L’empresa que l’havia de construir i fer funcionar es va establir l’any 1833 però, per vicissituds diverses, no va poder començar a funcionar fins l’any 1839 i cap a mitjan la dècada de 1960 va tancar les seves portes definitivament. La possibilitat de disposar de documentació original des dels mateixos inicis de l’empresa i fins als anys 30 del segle XX permet abordar la història d’un cas rellevant entre les empreses pioneres de la Revolució Industrial a Catalunya.
L’obra s’estructura bàsicament en dues parts. En la primera s’analitza la producció i el comerç de teixits i en la segona les estratègies de finançament. Pel que fa a la primera part, la tesi estudia com es produí la inversió en actius fixos (edificis i maquinària), en matèries primeres (carbó i cotó), amb quina mà d’obra es va comptar, quin tipus de teixit i quina quantitat es va arribar a produir; es fa una anàlisi en conjunt de l’evolució dels costos de producció i una estimació de la productivitat de l’empresa, i s’acaba amb aquest apartat amb una anàlisi dels aspectes comercials: clients, mercats, preus i crèdit. La segona part aborda els aspectes financers de l’activitat industrial començant per l’origen del capital industrial i seguint amb una anàlisi de la rendibilitat i de les estratègies de finançament.
Del treball es desprèn que els empresaris que van regir la Fàbrica de la Rambla van buscar sempre produir amb el mínim cost possible i obtenir el màxim ingrés. Per això no van deixar mai d’introduir les innovacions tècniques que van considerar necessàries, van buscar les matèries primeres i la mà d’obra que van considerar més apropiades i als millors preus possibles; pel mateix motiu un dels seus màxims objectius va ser la reducció dels costos i l’augment de la producció i de la productivitat per poder oferir uns preus competitius a un major nombre de clients. Però, de vegades, l’objectiu maximitzador i l’ajustament de costos i preus van xocar obertament, de manera que es va renunciar al primer. Els empresaris de la Fàbrica de la Rambla, per tant, es van haver d’adaptar a un mercat amb una demanda dèbil que els condicionava.The PhD studies the case of one of the first cotton mills that used steam as a motive force in Vilanova i la Geltrú. The company was established in 1833 but, for various vicissitudes, he could not begin to run until 1839 and towards the mid of 1960 closed its doors forever. The availability of original documentation from the beginning of the company to 30 years of the twentieth century can address the relevant history of a case among the pioneers of the Industrial Revolution in Catalonia. The work is divided into two parts. The first analyzes the production and trade of textiles and the second financing strategies. Regarding the first part of the thesis as there was investment in fixed assets, raw materials, labour recruitment, and what type and amount of fabrics was to produce, analyzes the evolution of overall production costs and made an estimate of the productivity of the company, and this section ends with an analysis of commercial side: customers, markets, prices and credit. The second part deals with the financial aspects of industrial activity starting at the origin of industrial capital and following an analysis of profitability and financing strategies. PhD shows that entrepreneurs who ruled this factory always sought to produce the lowest cost possible and get the most income. So it never ceased to introduce technical innovations which were considered necessary, sought raw materials and labor that were considered most appropriate and best possible prices, for the same reason one of its main objectives was reducing costs and increasing production and productivity in order to offer competitive prices to a greater number of customers. But sometimes the goal maximizer and adjustment costs and prices clashed openly, so he resigned first. Managers of Fàbrica de la Rambla, therefore, had to adapt to a market with weak demand that conditioned.
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Portal, Marie-Laure. "La production textile (coton, laine, soie) en aire hellénophone moderne : analyse technique et historique." Paris 4, 2003. http://www.theses.fr/2003PA040280.
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En examinant la production textile (coton, laine, soie) dans une aire unie par l'usage du grec, de la fin du XVIIIe siècle à l'entre-deux guerres, la thèse se fixe un triple objectif. Le 1er ambitionne (par l'ensemble de la thèse) d'ouvrir la voie aux recherches sur le textile (et plus largement sur les techniques) en Grèce moderne. Le 2e (1e partie du doctorat) vise à élaborer, à partir du matériel de l'aire hellénophone moderne, un modèle général d'analyse pour traiter les cas rencontrés lors de dépouillements ultérieurs et dont le caractère heuristique rendrait apte à analyser le textile dans d'autres situations historiques. Le 3e s'attache à des questions historiques dont l'examen exhaustif est rendu difficile par l'absence quasi totale d'études préexistantes : la nouveauté du champ a fait choisir 4 volets dans l'aire hellénophone moderne (2e partie du doctorat) en dressant une histoire du jugement, en établissant la parcellisation de la production selon les lieux et milieux, en posant les linéaments d'une histoire des innovations et en développant les grands axes du problème de la communauté d'artBy examining the textile production (cotton, wool, silk) in the Greek-speaking area, from the end of the XVIIIth century to the period between the wars, this thesis has a triple aim. The first has the ambition (by the whole study) to open researches on textile (and more widely on the techniques) in modern Greece. The second (1st part of the thesis) trends towards building, from the equipment of modern Greek-speaking area, a general model of analysis to treat further cases and the heuristic feature of which would allow to analyse textile in other historical situations. The 3rd treats historical questions the study of which is difficult by the lack of existing works; this new approach makes us choose 4 parts in the modern Greek-speaking area (2nd part of the thesis): history of judgment, sharing-out of production according to places and circles, beginnings for a history of innovations and the main features of the community of art problem
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Vílchez, Maldonado Silvia. "Textiles funcionales obtenidos a partir de la incorporación de nanopartículas poliméricas." Doctoral thesis, Universitat de Barcelona, 2014. http://hdl.handle.net/10803/283167.
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El objetivo principal de la presente tesis es el diseño de nanopartículas de etilcelulosa para su utilización como vehículos de principios activos o sustancias lipofílicas y su deposición sobre un tejido, con la finalidad de obtener textiles funcionales. Para ello, se seleccionó como sustancia lipofílica modelo un filtro solar orgánico y como sustrato textil tejido de algodón. Debido a las características de la sustancia lipofílica seleccionada, el objetivo final de este trabajo es la obtención de tejido de algodón con propiedades protectoras frente a la radiación ultravioleta mediante la aplicación de nanopartículas poliméricas funcionales de etilcelulosa, preparadas por el método de evaporación del solvente a partir de nano-emulsiones aceite en agua (O/W).
Por consiguiente, este estudio engloba el diseño de nanomateriales, su aplicación al tejido y estudio de la interacción entre las nanopartículas y el sustrato textil, y la evaluación de las propiedades finales de los tejidos tratados con nanopartículas.
Las principales etapas de esta tesis son las siguientes:
- Obtención de nanopartículas de etilcelulosa a partir de nano-emulsiones aceite en agua (O/W) utilizadas como plantilla
o Estudio de la formación y caracterización de nano-emulsiones
o Obtención de nanopartículas a partir de las nano-emulsiones
seleccionadas -Aplicación de las nanopartículas sobre el tejido de algodón -Determinación de las propiedades del tejido tratado con nanopartículas
Las investigaciones desarrolladas han permitido alcanzar las siguientes conclusiones principales:
- Las nano-emulsiones estudiadas presentan suficiente estabilidad a 25ºC para ser utilizadas como plantilla para la obtención de nanopartículas poliméricas de etilcelulosa de tamaño <100 nm mediante el método de evaporación del solvente.
- La determinación indirecta de la concentración de filtro solar en las nanopartículas por HPLC ha permitido concluir que el proceso de evaporación del solvente no induce la difusión del filtro solar hacia la fase continua del sistema, obteniendo un alto rendimiento de encapsulación (>95%).
- La incorporación del agente reticulante Desmodur N100 en la fase oleosa de la nano-emulsión permite la obtención de nanopartículas insolubles en solventes orgánicos tales como etanol. Ello se ha atribuido a la reticulación de las cadenas de etilcelulosa.
- La caracterización de los tejidos tratados con nanopartículas puso de manifiesto que los métodos convencionales de acabado del tejido “impregnación del tejido-paso por el foulard-secado” son adecuados para la incorporación de nanopartículas en una proporción suficiente como para otorgar funcionalidad de protección UV al tejido de algodón.
- A partir de los resultados obtenidos se dedujo que en el mecanismo de anclaje de las nanopartículas en el tejido de algodón probablemente predomina la penetración de cadenas de celulosa (que se encuentran por encima de su Tg) en las cadenas poliméricas que forman las nanopartículas, formando un entrelazado que aumenta la resistencia de las nanopartículas frente a los procesos de lavado.
- La evaluación de las propiedades de protección frente a la radiación UV de los tejidos tratados indica que las diversas modificaciones realizadas en el proceso de deposición de las nanopartículas sobre el tejido de algodón han permitido mejorar las propiedades de protección UV de los tejidos tratados, llegando a obtener textiles con una capacidad de protección excelente (UPF=50+).
- Las medidas de transmitancia de los tejidos después de los lavados y la evaluación del detergente empleado pusieron de manifiesto que la capacidad de protección frente a la radiación UV resulta de una contribución del filtro solar de las nanopartículas que resisten después de los lavados (absorción en el intervalo UVB), y el agente blanqueante del detergente depositado en los lavados (absorción en el intervalo UVA).The main objective of this thesis is the design of ethylcellulose nanoparticles for use as vehicles of lipophilic active substances and their deposition on fabric, to obtain functional textiles. For this purpose, it was selected as a model substance a lipophilic organic sunscreen and cotton fabric as textile. Due to the characteristics of the selected lipophilic substance, the final goal is to obtain UV protective cotton fabric. The main stages of this thesis are: - The preparation of ethylcellulose (EC) nanoparticles loaded with a sunscreen from oil in water nano-emulsions used as templates by the solvent evaporation method. - The application of EC nanoparticles on cotton fabric - The determination of the properties of the textile treated with the nanoparticles Following, the main conclusions of this work are described: - Nano-emulsions studied show sufficient stability to be used as template for the preparation of EC nanoparticles using the solvent evaporation method. - The determination of the concentration of sunscreen in nanoparticles by HPLC allow to conclude that the evaporation process of the solvent does not induce diffusion of sunscreen to the continuous phase (encapsulation efficiency > 95 % ). - The incorporation of the crosslinker Desmodur N100 in the oil phase of the nano-emulsion allows obtaining nanoparticles insoluble in organic solvents such as ethanol. - Characterization of treated fabrics showed that conventional fabric finishing methods "impregnation-padding-drying " are suitable to provide UV protection to fabric. - Evaluation of the properties of protection against UV radiation of the treated fabrics indicates that various modifications to the process of deposition of nanoparticles on the cotton fabric have improved fabric UV properties (UPF = 50+). - Results suggest that cotton textile UV protection is caused by nanoparticles (UVB absorption) and optical whitening agent deposition from detergent used in washing (UVA absorption).
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Declercq-Pedraza, Ludwig-Nick. "Estudio de pre-factibilidad para la instalación de una planta productora de hilos de calidad elaborados con algodón nativo de color." Bachelor's thesis, Universidad de Lima, 2016. http://repositorio.ulima.edu.pe/handle/ulima/3483.
Full textAbstract:
El estudio realizado en el presente trabajo de investigación consiste en la evaluación de la implementación de una planta productora de hilo de algodón nativo de color el cual es de origen peruano y se caracteriza por tener variados colores como crema, marrón, verde, pardo, fifo, lila, blanco y beige y a su vez este algodón fue usado en Caral la primera civilización de América y otras culturas prehispánicas en Perú; sin embargo, posee características como fibra corta y baja resistencia a la torsión lo cual hace que sea imposible ser hilado por maquinaria convencional; por ello, se utilizará una máquina especialmente adaptada la cual tiene un rango de parámetros de velocidad específicos para no romper el hilo al momento de procesarlo. Cabe recalcar que para facilitar el proceso de hilatura se mezclará el algodón nativo de color con algodón Tangüis con lo cual también reducirá el costo de producción; ya que, este es más barato que el algodón nativo.Trabajo de investigación
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Chassagne, Serge. "La naissance de l'industrie cotonniere en france : 1760-1840, trois generations d'entrepreneurs." Paris, EHESS, 1986. http://www.theses.fr/1986EHES0056.
Full textAbstract:
La naissance de l'industrie cotonniere s'opere en france en trois grandes phases chronologiques : 1. De 1760 a 1785, domine l'indiennage, ou impression de cotonnades (pures, importees des indes, ou metisses, tissees en france). C'est le temps des proto-fabriques. 2. A partir de 1785 et jusqu'a la fin de l'empire, se diffusent les mecaniques anglaises a filer le coton, mues a la main ou a l'eau, qui concentrent la filature dans les fabriques, tout en maintenant disperse le tissage. On remarquera que cette phase de transfert technologique coincide avec la revolution francaise et la fermeture des frontieres. 3. Apres le retour de la paix, en 1815, et le maintien de la prohibition, la mecanisation s'etend a tous les stades de la production cotonniere : filature, tissage et impression. Le modele de l'usine s'impose donc comme forme dominante de la production. A chaque phase, qui dure environ 30 ans, ont ete etudies le cout d'etablissement des entreprises et la composition du groupe social des entrepreneurs. Il en resulte que la seule periode d'ouverture du recrutement patronal est celle des commencements, et qu'ensuite le negoce envahit l'industrie, illustrant ainsi que la transformation de la production s'inscrit davantage sous le signe de la continuite que de la ruptureThe making of french cotton industry took place in three stages : 1. From 1760 to 1785, calico printing dominated the cotton industry. It was the time for proto-factories. 2. From 1785 until the end of the empire, the english spinning techniques spread, either hand or water powered, which concentrated the spinning in factories, while the handloom weaving remained scattered. This stage of technological diffusion takes place during the french revolution, and with a policy of protection. 3. After the peace, in 1815, and the maintening of protection, all the production phases were mecanized : spinning, weaving and printing. The factory became therefore the leading form of production. For each phase, which lasted as long as a generation, the cost of capital and the social group of entrepreneurs have been surveyed. We can conclude that the only period of social opening was the beginning, because very soon trade overwhelmed industry, putting the great transformation rather on the side of continuity than of discontinuance
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Kamenopoulou, Vassiliki. "Proprietes dosimetriques des fibres textiles : application a la dosimetrie par resonance paramagnetique electronique d'un accident d'irradiation gamma." Toulouse 3, 1987. http://www.theses.fr/1987TOU30172.
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Gamboa-Ojeda, Victoria Leticia. "Les ouvriers du textile de Puebla : le cas d'Atlixco : 1899-1924." Paris 8, 1993. http://www.theses.fr/1993PA080820.
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Ce travail etudie, dans la perspective d'une histoire sociale, les ouvriers textiles de la vallee d'atlixco situee dans l'etat de puebla, au centre-est du mexqiue. Notre etude debute en 1899, lorsqu'atlixco devient un important pole textile, et termine en 1924, lorsque le syndicalisme est definitivement implante parmi ces ouvriers: non comme le fruit d'une lente maturation qui les eut conduits a se constituer en tant que classe ouvriere, mais essentiellement a la suite du mouvement revolutionnaire de 1910-1917. Etudier l'impact de la revolution mpexicaine parmi ces ouvriers, tel est l'objectif primordial de notre these. A cet effet, nous divisons notre analyse en trois etapes: avant, pendant et apres la lutte armee. La revolution exerca sur ces ouvriers des effets contradictoires: si elle conduisit a leur dissolution temporaire en tant que classe, les forcant a emigrer et a retourner a la terre, elle joua egalement un role decisif en permettant, peu de temps apres et a la suite de sanglants affrontements entre patrons et ouvriers, mais aussi entre les differents factions ouvrieres, la consolidation definitive des syndicats. Pour ces ouvriers, la revolution fut synonyme de modernite, car elle leur permet de se regrouper sous la forme moderne de l'association ouvriere; mais elle fut egalement synonyme de traditionalisme, dans la msure ou elle reaffirma leurs racines paysannes: non seulement parce qu'elle les aiguilla vers les taches agricoles, mais aussi parce qu'elle reforca en eux le desir de devenir proprietaires d'un lopin de terre en raison du caractere "agrariste" que revetit bientot cette revolutionThis monograph is a social history of textile workers in atlixco valley in the state of puebla in eastern mexico. The study covers a period beginning in 1899, when atlixco becomes a textile manufacturing center, and ending in 1924 when unions are established amongst these workers. These unions were not the result of the maturtion of their formative process as a worker class, but rather a consequence of the 1910-1917 revolutionary movement in mexico. The main objective of this thesis is to analyze th impact of the mexican revolution on the textile workers in atlixco. Three different moments of the workers's situation are studied : the periods before, during and after the armed struggle. The revolution had temporarily dissolved their working class identity as the revolution forced them to emigrate and work as farmp laborers; but following this initial impact, the revolution also decisively motivated them to consolidate their union organizations, after a period of vicious struggle against the factory owners and within the workers themselves. For these workers, the revolution brought modernity in the sense that it allowed them to come together under modern forms of association. But it also meant traditionalism as it reaffirmed their peasant roots not only by having thrust them temporarily toward agricultural labor but above all because the revolution's agrarian ideology revived the people's desire for a plot of land
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Ovalle-Velazco, Andrea-Gabriel. "Exportación en Bodys para bebés elaborados en base de algodón orgánico a Bogotá." Bachelor's thesis, Universidad de Lima, 2016. http://repositorio.ulima.edu.pe/handle/ulima/1733.
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Explica el plan de negocios de exportación a Colombia de prendas de vestir para niños de 0-24 meses elaboradas con algodón 100% orgánico. Se realizó un análisis de la idea, oportunidad y modelo del negocio. Se realizó un estudio técnico, mediante una evaluación interna y externa, un plan de marketing, operacional, logístico y administrativo y de calidad adecuado.Los productos serán diferenciados por la calidad de la confección y empaques ecológicos. El análisis financiero es viable. La empresa recuperará la inversión a finales del tercer año.Trabajo de investigación
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Weiss, Nathalie. "Contribution à l'analyse thermique et chimique d'un procédé industriel de blanchiment à la continue de tissus coton." Mulhouse, 2001. http://www.theses.fr/2001MULH0678.
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Le traitement de débouillissage - blanchiment a pour but l'élimination des impuretés de la cellulose et la destruction des colorants naturels du coton. Le vaporiseur de prétraitement est une enceinte de vapeur saturante où le tissu entre froid et imprégné des réactifs en solution. Le tissu chauffe jusqu'à ce que sa température atteigne celle de la vapeur saturante et reste dans le réacteur, sans sécher, le temps nécessaire aux réactions. Pour éviter la condensation des gouttes d'eau sur le tissu qui diluent localement les réactifs, le vaporiseur est alimentée en vapeur légèrement surchauffée. La modélisation du comportement du tissu dans la machine montre que le chauffage du tissu este extrêmement rapide (moins d'une seconde). Pendant les 10 à 20 minutes suivantes, le tissu ne peut que sécher. D'où la nécessité de bien concevoir l'aéraulique pour ralentir ce phénomène. La réaction de blanchiment est optimale à pH 10. 5. Des conditions industrielles beaucoup plus alcalines et un très fort excès d'eau oxygénée permettent d'avoir un traitement reproductible. En conclusion, un nouveau mode de régulation du vaporiseur est proposé, il tient compte des risques de séchage dans le réacteurThe scoring and bleaching treatments are used to eliminate impurities present in the cellulosic fibres and to destroy the natural dyes of cotton. The pretreatment steamer in which the cold fabric impregnated with the reactants is fed, contains saturated steam. The fabric is then heated up to the steam's température and is left in the steamer long enough for the chemical réactions to take place without any drying phenomena. To prevent the formation of condensation droplets that would dilute locally the reactants, the steamer is fed with slightly overheated steam. The modélisation of the fabric's then-nal behaviour shows that the heating step is very short (less than a second). During the next 10 to 20 minutes, the fabric can only be drying in the steamer. It is then of the utmost importance to have a good control of the heat and water exchanges during all the process. The optimal conditions for the bleaching reaction are reached for a pH of 10,5. An industriel process in very alkali conditions and with a large excess of hydrogen peroxide ensure a reproducible treatment
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Bourdin, Gérard. "Les ouvriers du textile dans l'arrondissement de Domfront : 1860-1914." Caen, 1988. http://www.theses.fr/1988CAEN1037.
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L'ancien arrondissement de domfront, de 1860 a 1914, connait une serie de crises industrielles graves. Le nombre des tisserands à domicile passe de 50 000 a 3 000 malgré un effort du patronat pour essayer d'améliorer la qualite des productions et la résistance de quelques unités familiales de production, regroupées dans les communes situées autour de Flers, le centre commercial. Les techniques du tissage à main, les produits fabriqués sont analysés. De même que les conditions de vie de ces paysans micro-agriculteurs (habitat, fortune, mobilité de la main d'oeuvre, démographie, résistance aux crises). Ces mêmes aspects sont etudiés pour les ouvriers d'usine, avec la mise en valeur de l'originalité de chacune des qualifications. Dans les usines se recrée une aristocratie ouvrière; un tiers des ouvriers obtiennent d'assez bons salaires, soit en raison de leur compétence, soit en raison de leur qualification. Cette hiérarchie se retrouve dans l'habitat : un tiers sont propriétaires, un autre tiers sont locataires de maisons individuelles, un troisième tiers vit dans des immeubles collectifs. La crise structurelle des années 1880-1914 entraine le chomage et les ouvriers doivent s'habituer à une vie en peau de chagrin (diminution de la natalité, baisse de la consommation, même en alcool, qui tient pourtant une grande place, baisse de l'espérance de vie). Les ouvriers s'en remettent a la petite et moyenne bourgeoisie qui controle economiquement le monde ouvrier (commerce, habitat, circuit de l'alcool) et organise le paternalisme sur place (societes de secours mutuels. . . ). La grande grève des cent jours en 1907 est un échec et les ouvriers se retournent vers cette petite bourgeoisie
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Fonteneau, Tamime Omar. "Etude de la filabilité des cotons collants et de la classification des balles selon leur potentiel de collage mesuré par le H2SD." Mulhouse, 2000. http://www.theses.fr/2000MULH0605.
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Le coton pollué par les miellats d'insectes peut engendrer durant sa transformation des encrassements des machines textiles. Ceci induit une baisse de la productivité et de la qualité en filature. Afin de mieux déceler le collage dans le coton et d'en quantifier les effets sur la filature, des études de fiabilité ont été menées sur une unité industrielle. Durant ces essais de filature, un suivi de la productivité de chacune des machines a été opéré. Différents paramètres de qualité ont également été répertoriés. La comparaison de plusieurs mesures du collage, thermodétecteur SCT, H2SD et les pourcentages des sucres dosés par HPLC, ont montré que le nombre de points collants mesuré par H2SD est le meilleur indicateur du collage en filature. En utilisant cette mesure, les relations entre le collage et les perturbations qu'il induit ont pu être quantifier notamment pour le rendement, les imperfections du fil et ses propriétés de résistance. Une étude de faisabilité du classement des balles selon leur collage a montré qu'il est possible de séparer les balles en fonction du nombre de points collants pour leur mise en vente avec une valeur de collage garantie tout en maîtrisant le risque de litige.
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Serra, Bruns Albert. "Evaluación de las propiedades mecánicas y micromecánicas de los materiales compuestos de polipropileno reforzado con fibras residuales provenientes del reciclado de recortes en la industria textil." Doctoral thesis, Universitat de Girona, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10803/673894.
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Every year, the textile industry generates large amounts of cellulosic waste during the production and fabrication stages. This waste is made up of fibers, with lengths are less than 10 mm that prevent its reintroduction into the manufacturing process of textile products and they end up dumped or incinerated. In this doctoral thesis, polypropylene composite materials reinforced with cellulosic waste from the textile industry have been obtained, in order to give them added value and reduce their environmental impact.
The cellulosic waste that has been used is cotton wool, due to cotton is the natural fiber that is the most used in making clothes. In this process, a greater amount of this waste is generated.
To obtain a polypropylene (PP) composite material reinforced with natural fibers, it is necessary to use a coupling agent to ensure a good interface between them. In addition, from a dyed cellulosic fiber, it has been used to study the effect of dye on the interface of the composite material. During this study, it was found that the organic dyes present in the cotton wool affect the quality of the interface in two ways. On the one hand, dyes increase the affinity between the cotton fibers and the matrix due to the hydrophilic character of the fibers decreases. So, they increases their chemical compatibility with the matrix. On the other hand, dyes limit the effect of coupling agents because they increase the difficulty they have in reacting with the hydroxyl groups present on the surface of the fiber.
The mechanical properties of the different composite materials produced using different amounts of reinforcement and coupling agent (MAPP) have been analyzed here. The results of the tensile tests have shown a remarkable increase of the tensile strength of the matrix. However, compounds formulated with MAPP have shown significantly higher tensile strength than compounds formulated without this coupling agent. In terms of stiffness, a linear evolution has been observed in the values of the Young’s Module of the composites directly proportional to the applied reinforcement content. In contrast, it has been found that the slope of the linear fit equation obtained through the graphical representation mentioned above is lower than that other polypropylene compounds reinforced with natural fibersCada any, la industria tèxtil genera grans quantitats de residu cel·lulòsic durant les etapes de producció i confecció de teixits. Aquest residu es compon de fibres amb longituds inferiors a 10 mm que impedeixen la seva reintroducció en el procés de fabricació de productes tèxtils i acaben abocades o incinerades. En aquesta tesi doctoral s’han obtingut materials compostos de polipropilè reforçats amb residus cel·lulòsics provinents de la indústria tèxtil, per tal de donar-los un valor afegit i reduir el seu impacte mediambiental. El residu cel·lulòsic que s’ha utilitzat és la borra de cotó doncs, el cotó és la fibra natural que més s’utilitza en la confecció de vestits, procés en el que es genera una major quantitat d’aquests residus. Per a l’obtenció d’un material compost de polipropilè (PP) reforçat amb fibres naturals és necessària la utilització d’un agent d’acoblament per a garantir una bona interfase entre elles. A més a més, en partir d’una fibra cel·lulòsica tenyida, s’ha aprofitat per estudiar quin efecte té el tint sobre la interfase del material compost. Durant aquest estudi s’ha trobat que els colorants orgànics presents a la borra de cotó afecten la qualitat de la interfase de dues maneres. Per una banda, augmenten la compatibilitat química entre les fibres de cotó i la matriu degut a que disminueixen el caràcter hidrofílic de les fibres. Per una altra banda, els tints limiten l’efecte dels agents d’acoblament degut a que incrementen la dificultat que tenen aquests per reaccionar amb els grups hidroxils presents a la superfície de la fibra. Aquí mateix s’han analitzat les propietats mecàniques dels diferents materials compostos produïts utilitzant diferents quantitats de reforç i d’agent d’acoblament (MAPP). Els resultats dels assajos a tracció, han mostrat un increment notable de la resistència a tracció de la matriu. No obstant, els compostos formulats amb MAPP han mostrat una resistència a tracció sensiblement més alta que els compostos formulats sense aquest agent d’acoblament. Pel que fa a la rigidesa, s’ha observat una evolució lineal en els valors del Mòdul de Young dels compòsits directament proporcional al contingut de reforç aplicat. Per contra, s’ha constatat que el pendent de l’equació d’ajust lineal obtinguda a través de la representació gràfica esmentada anteriorment, és inferior al d’altres compostos de polipropilè reforçats amb fibres naturals
Programa de Doctorat en Tecnologia
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Puyjarinet, Magali. "Le rôle des immigrants dans la grève de l'industrie textile à Lawrence, Massachusetts, en 1912." Paris 4, 1991. http://www.theses.fr/1991PA040167.
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La greve du textile de lawrence, massachusetts, debut 1912, l'une des premieres actions d'envergure menee aux etats-unis par des immigrants d'europe du sud et de l'est , toucha une industrie faiblement syndicalisee dont la main d'oeuvre incluait un fort pourcentage de femmes et de mineurs. La reduction salariale qui declencha la greve s'ajoutait aux desillusions des conditions de vie et de travail. Le caractere spontane du mouvement, qualifie parfois de revolution, en cachait les significations profondes. La greve provoqua l'affrontement des deux composantes de la population, anglophones et non anglophones - terme pare des connotations les plus xenophobes a l'epoque du darwinisme social. Si la communaute irlando-americaine, ayant depuis peu affirme son ascendant, appuyee par l'eglise catholique et les milieux d'affaires, fit ostensiblement le jeu des industriels, chaque communaute "installee" se determina en fonction de son statut et de ses aspirations. Le choix des grevistes d'un syndicat revolutionnaire leur valut l'opposition des syndicats de metiers plus conservateurs. Les nouveaux immigrants trouverent dans le discours des travailleurs industriels du monde la denonciation du capitalisme qu'ils attendaient, mais ils menerent eux-memes leur combat selon les formes qu'ils choisirent. Leurs communautes se mobiliserent pour la chasse aux "jaunes", pour faire connaitre leur cause a l'exterieur et pour affronter la vie quotidienne. Le militantisme agressif des femmes surprit miliciens et juges. Galvanises par les succes de l'unite d'action, les grevistes firent, contre toute attente. .The 1912 lawrence, massachusetts, textile strike, one of the first important strikes staged by south and east-european immigrants in the u. S. , hit an industry characterized by a high percentage of female and child labor and lacking strong labor unions. Though it looked a spontaneous revolt - some called it a revolution- against a wage cut the immigrants' discontent was also due to their living and working conditions in their new land. The nine-week strike became a confrontation between lawrence's english and non-english speaking communities, the latter word being used with social darwinism's worst nativist overtones. The irish-americans, who ran the city, openly sided with the mill owners, backed by the catholic church and local businessmen. The other "old immigrant" groups reacted according to their status and traditions. The new immigrant strikers called a revolutionary union, the industrial workers of the world, for help, which caused the more conservative craft unions to strive to break the strike. Though the strikers cheered as they listened to the iww's diatribes against capitalism, they waged their own fight as they saw fit. Their ethnic groups organized efficiently to prevent scabbing, advertize the strike, call for solida -rity and cope with daily life in a hostile environment. The women's militant aggressiveness astounded militiamen and judges. Overjoyed by their solidarity, the strikers got the mill owners. .
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Ribeiro, Sequeira Joana Isabel. "Produção têxtil em Portugal nos finais da Idade Média." Paris, EHESS, 2012. http://www.theses.fr/2012EHES0157.
Full textAbstract:
Cette thèse de doctorat étudie la production textile au Portugal à la fin du Moyen Âge ; elle considère les dimensions de la production, du travail et des produits. Nous caractérisons les différents secteurs textiles (la laine, le lin et le chanvre, le coton et la soie) et nous présentons leur distribution géographique. Nous analysons par la suite les moyens techniques et les distincts stades de la production, dans le but de mettre en évidence quelques-unes des caractéristiques et des phénomènes qui aident à expliquer l'évolution et le développement de l'industrie textile médiévale portugaise. Nous examinons avec une attention spéciale le travail textile, dans les dimensions de l'apprentissage, de la spécialisation professionnelle, de l'organisation externe et du rôle des femmes, et nous considérons aussi les différentes modalités d'organisation de la production. La thèse propose un catalogue, conçu comme un instrument de consultation, qui réunit 23 rubriques relatives à des tissus médiévaux portugais. En conclusion, une brève réflexion sur la projection commerciale des produits textiles portugais sur les marchés interne et extérieur, qui essaie d'évaluer l'importance et le poids de l'industrie textile dans l'ensemble de l'économie du royaumeThis doctoral thesis is about the textile production in the late medieval Portugal, examining production, labour, and products. It characterizes the different textile sectors (wool, flax, hemp, silk, and cotton) and it presents its geographical distribution. It also analyses the technical resources and the different production stages in order to put in evidence certain features and phenomenon wich contribute to explain the evolution and development of Portuguese textile industry in the Middle Ages. This study gives particular attention to textile work, especially in the areas related to learning, labor specialization, external organization, and the role of women, and it scrutinizes the production methods. It also includes a catalogue, designed as consultation tool, wich gathers 23 entries on Portuguese medieval fabrics. Lastly, it discusses the commercial projection of Portuguese textiles in domestic and external markets, seeking to ascertain the importance and signifiance of the textile industry in the kingdom's economy