Dissertations / Theses: 'Culture of clothing'

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Zou, Xuemei, and 邹雪梅. "Landscape renovation: for Dahongmen clothing culture industry district." Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 2010. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B47152965.

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Romagnoli, Simone <1974&gt. "Competence: intelligence in sheep's clothing? Culture, representations, and cognitive performance." Doctoral thesis, Alma Mater Studiorum - Università di Bologna, 2013. http://amsdottorato.unibo.it/5817/.

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The first aim of this thesis was to contribute to the understanding of how cultural capital (Bourdieu, 1983/1986) affects students achievements and performances. We specifically claimed that the effect of cultural capital is at least partly explained by the positioning students take towards the principles they use to attribute competence and intelligence. The testing of these hypothesis have been framed within the social representations theory, specifically in the formulation of the Lemanic school approach (Doise, 1986).

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Ripley, Julie. "Surf's Us : constructing surfing identities through clothing culture in Cornwall." Thesis, University of the Arts London, 2018. http://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/13447/.

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Critical literature on surfing is concerned primarily with its development as a competitive sport, focusing on ‘stand-up’ surfing in the USA and to some extent in Australia, resulting in a body of work populated almost exclusively by young white males. However, in Cornwall, forms of surfing including belly and body boarding have been enjoyed for almost a century by all ages and ethnicities, both sexes, at every level from international competition to non-competitive leisure, from daily practice to holiday novelty. The area has developed a distinctive clothing culture stemming from this plethora of surfing activities. This study asks, how has the material culture of bellyboarding and surfing in Cornwall developed historically, and how does the clothing culture in the area relate to the global phenomenon of surf style? The contemporary scene is evaluated by means of a visual ethnography of a Cornish seaside village where surfing is the focus of social events and commercial endeavours. Through an examination of the clothing culture in the area, it explores how gender and sexuality, class and consumption, community and belonging are negotiated and articulated. The historical and cultural contexts in which this complex relationship developed are discussed with reference to archival material from regional museums, personal collections and interviews with amateur and professional surf historians. Oral histories of surfing, bellyboarding, bodyboarding and beach life compiled for the study and from existing collections are additionally used to interrogate existing narratives of surfing history. Drawing on and extending theoretical perspectives on subculture, taste, consumption, space and place, this will be the first study that investigates how the clothing culture of surfing explores and constitutes, constructs and reconstructs gender, class and regional identity, and how it defines and redefines the region’s surfing locales by its visible presence.

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Martach, Swantje. "Towards a New Materialist Ontology of Clothing." Doctoral thesis, Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona, 2020. http://hdl.handle.net/10803/670649.

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De fet, estem envoltats de molta més roba que persones. I de les persones que ens envolten, veiem més roba que pell. Per què estem tan convençuts que el que veiem són persones? Per tal de re-equilibrar les concepcions de sentit comú de el vestir ("clothing", definit aquí no com ho manifest, sinó com a relació humà/vestimenta), la tesi "Cap a una ontologia nova materialista del vestir" aspira a revelar l'equivalència immanent a aquest tipus de relació humà/cosa. Per atendre les agències materials i existències a part de la nostra en el vestir, aquesta tesi es va fer càrrec de el regne de el Nou Materialisme (NM). No obstant això, com NM mai s'ha enfocat en el vestir, el present projecte va haver de construir per si mateix una bastida metodològic de quatre parts. A més d'adoptar no l'assumpte sinó la forma de (1) investigació nova materialista, es va basar en (2) enfocaments teòrics de moda/vestimenta. A causa de que les aspiracions d'investigació d'aquest últim es dirigeixen a l'humà, en el camí cap al qual simplement es trobi la vestimenta; precisament no les seves respostes proporcionades fins ara, sinó més aviat els seus assumptes encara per resoldre, van ser adoptats. (3) Es va trobar més assistència en Material Culture (MC) Studies, una escola antropològica veïna a NM, en les consideracions es va incloure més vestimenta que moda des de llavors. Finalment, com una escola amb què NM sovint es confon o s'agrupa, (4) l'ontologia orientada a objectes (Object Oriented Ontology) es va utilitzar com a suport addicional, així que com un altre mitjà de contrast. Aquesta metodologia creuant el vestir i NM va permetre una re-elaboració d'el concepte de la "cosa", que els quatre àmbits d'investigació mantenen estimat, i amb que fan malabarismes amb tanta naturalitat. En lloc d'entitats d'objectes, el present projecte proposa l'esdevenir de webs/nusos com a unitat dinàmica d'investigació. Eventualment, aquest projecte aspira a ressaltar el valor de la vestimenta i de el vestir com assumpte d'investigació filosòfica, per la qual cosa que tant de bo contribuirà a un canvi de atribuir-li una falta de serietat, a apreciar el poder que té sobre cadascun de nosaltres. En el seu statu quo, la pràctica quotidiana de el vestir és un gran contaminant ecològic, així com una càrrega psicològica freqüentment pesada. A l'relacionar-lo amb el NM, aquest projecte anima a re-conceptualitzar el vestir, i així avançar cap a una coexistència més respectuosa, responsable i estètica dels humans/vestimenta.
De hecho, estamos rodeados de mucha más ropa que personas. Y de las personas que nos rodean, vemos más ropa que piel. ¿Por qué estamos tan persuadidos de que lo que vemos son personas? Con el fin de re-equilibrar las concepciones de sentido común del vestir ("clothing", definido aquí no como lo manifiesto, sino como relación humano/vestimenta), la tesis "Hacia una ontología nueva materialista del vestir" aspira a revelar la equivalencia inmanente a este tipo de relación humano/cosa. Para atender a las agencias materiales y existencias aparte de la nuestra en el vestir, esta tesis se hizo cargo del reino del Nuevo Materialismo (NM). Sin embargo, como NM nunca se ha enfocado en el vestir, el presente proyecto tuvo que construir por sí mismo un andamio metodológico de cuatro partes. Además de adoptar no el asunto sino la forma de (1) investigación nueva materialista, se basó en (2) enfoques teóricos de moda/vestimenta. Debido a que las aspiraciones de investigación de este último se dirigen al humano, en el camino hacia el cual simplemente se encuentre la vestimenta; precisamente no sus respuestas proporcionadas hasta ahora, sino más bien sus asuntos aún por resolver, fueron adoptados. (3) Se encontró más asistencia en Material Culture (MC) Studies, una escuela antropológica vecina a NM, en cuyas consideraciones se incluyó más vestimenta que moda desde entonces. Finalmente, como una escuela con que NM a menudo se confunde o agrupa, (4) la ontología orientada a objetos (Object Oriented Ontology) se utilizó como respaldo adicional, así que como otro medio de contraste. Esta metodología cruzando el vestir y NM permitió una re-elaboración del concepto de la "cosa", que los cuatro ámbitos de investigación mantienen querido, y con que hacen malabarismos con tanta naturalidad. En lugar de entidades de objetos, el presente proyecto propone el devenir de webs/nudos como unidad dinámica de investigación. Eventualmente, este proyecto aspira a resaltar el valor de la vestimenta y del vestir como asunto de investigación filosófica, por lo cual que ojalá contribuirá a un cambio de atribuirle una falta de seriedad, a apreciar el poder que tiene sobre cada uno de nosotros. En su statu quo, la práctica cotidiana del vestir es un gran contaminante ecológico, así como una carga psicológica frecuentemente pesada. Al relacionarlo con el NM, este proyecto anima a re-conceptualizar el vestir, y así avanzar hacia una coexistencia más respetuosa, responsable y estética de los humanos/vestimenta.
As a matter of fact, we are surrounded by many more clothes than people. And from the people surrounding us, we see more clothes than skin. Why are we thus so persuaded that what we see are people? In order to rebalance commonsense conceptions of the clothing (defined here not as the manifest thing, but as humans/clothes relation), the thesis "Towards a New Materialist Ontology of Clothing" aspires to disclose the equivalence immanent to this kind of human/thing relation. For attending to material agencies and existences apart from our own in the clothing, this thesis took over the realm of New Materialism (NM). However, as NM has never targeted clothes/clothings, the present project had to construct for itself a four-parted methodological scaffold. Apart from adopting not the matter but rather the manner of (1) new materialist research, it drew on (2) fashion/dress (cultural) theoretical approaches. As the investigatory aspirations of the latter are directed onto the human, en route to which clothes are merely met; precisely not their hitherto provided answers, but rather their yet-to-solve matters were shouldered. (3) More assistance was found in Material Culture (MC) Studies, an anthropological school neighbouring NM, in the considerations of which more dress than fashion was included ever since. Finally, as a school NM often becomes confused or lumped together with, (4) Object-Oriented Ontology was used as additional back-up as well as further means of contrast. This clothing/NM-queering methodology allowed for a reworking of the concept of the "thing", which is held so dear and juggled-around with so naturally by all four touched-upon realms of research. Instead of object entities, the present project proposes web/knot-splitting becomings as units for research. Eventually, this project aspires to highlight the worth of the clothing as philosophical research matter, whereby it hopefully will contribute to a shift from ascribing it a lack of seriousness, to appreciating the power it has over each of us. In its status quo, the everyday clothing practice is a major ecological polluter as well as an often heavy psychological burden. By relating the clothing and NM, this project animates to reconceptualize the latter and thus move towards a more respectful, responsible, and aesthetic co-existence of humans/clothes therein.

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Liu, Xiaoyi. "Clothing, Food and Travel: Ming Material Culture as Reflected in Xingshi Yinyuan Zhuan." Diss., The University of Arizona, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/193863.

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Xingshi Yinyuan Zhuan 醒世姻缘传 (The Story of a Marital Fate to Awaken the World) is a 100-chapter, 100,000-character Chinese magnum opus written under the pseudonymous aegis of the seventeenth-century writer Xizhou Sheng 西周生. The novel primarily concerns itself with a curious reversal of power dynamics and relations in the institution of marriage, namely henpecking. To do so, the novel weaves into its narrative, both in the personalities and the events it illustrates, great details of Ming material life. It is through this literary snapshot of material culture that this dissertation is able to investigate the practices and custom of clothing, food and travel, three of the "four major concerns of the people's livelihood", known as yishizhuxing 衣食住行 in Chinese. The project, while frequenting economic dimensions and probing the impact that Ming politics had on the ethos and social economy of the period, sheds significant, if not equal, light on folk custom, legal and religious practices and women's status, among other issues. Although this dissertation allocates one chapter to the surveying of Ming sumptuary laws and ethos as evidenced by the "guxiu incident," the struggle between the forces of conservative social hierarchy and the growing market as a feature of Ming material life is a question that runs throughout the entire composition.

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Baron, Rixt. "An Interaction Design approach to Clothing Swaps." Thesis, Malmö universitet, Institutionen för konst, kultur och kommunikation (K3), 2021. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:mau:diva-45935.

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This study analysed the second hand clothing culture and clothing swaps that have gained popularity in recent years. Through interaction design, a solution is sought to the problem that secondhand shopping has become popular and thereby less affordable for people with a low income. By means of the five phases of design Thinking, a final concept has been designed. In which an early version of a prototype has been developed. The final concept helps solve the problem by making clothing swapping easier and more efficient, this is done through a combination of drop off locations and the use of an app. It demonstrates how interaction design can be used in clothing swaps and make them accessible to anyone interested.

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Coo, Stéphanie Marie R. "Clothing and the colonial culture of appearances in nineteenth century Spanish Philippines (1820-1896)." Thesis, Nice, 2014. http://www.theses.fr/2014NICE2028/document.

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L’objectif de cette recherche est de reconstituer la culture ou les cultures vestimentaire(s) dans les Philippines espagnoles au XIXe siècle et de mettre en exergue l’importance du vêtement dans cette société coloniale. Cette étude explore les interactions, uniques et complexes, entre le vêtement et les apparences, d’une part, et, d’autre part, les catégories raciales, sociales et culturelles dans le contexte des changements sociaux, culturels et économiques qui sont intervenus entre 1820 et 1896. L’objectif est de restituer la vie coloniale en s’appuyant sur le vêtement dans la mesure où il permet d’aborder de nombreux problèmes raciaux, sociaux, économiques et de genre qui agitent les Philippines de cette époque. Pour la première fois, l’étude des vêtements est ici utilisée pour comprendre les changements socio-culturels et économiques qui sont intervenus dans la société coloniale des Philippines au XIXe siècle. Les différents groupes raciaux et sociaux philippins sous domination espagnole sont analysés à travers leurs vêtements. Cette étude des pratiques vestimentaires aux Philippines s’inscrit dans le contexte d'une société coloniale pluriethnique et pluriculturelle. Après des siècles de colonisations, les Philippines du XIXe siècle étaient – et, dans une certaine mesure, restent – un amalgame de cultures autochtone, occidentale et chinoise. L’analyse des pratiques vestimentaires comme élément de l’histoire coloniale s’inscrit, plus largement, dans l’étude des interactions culturelles, des modes de vie coloniaux, des relations humaines et des comportements sociaux. Le vêtement et les apparences ont été analysés avec l’objectif de mieux comprendre les hiérarchies ethniques, sociales et de genre à cette époque. Cette recherche prétend dépasser les frontières académiques entre les catégories des études philippines, de l’histoire coloniale et de l’étude du vêtement
The purpose of this research is to reconstruct the clothing culture of 19th century Spanish Philippines and to discover the importance of dress in Philippine colonial society. This study explores the unique and complex interplay of clothing and appearance with race, class and culture in the context of the social, cultural and economic changes that took place between 1820 and 1896. The objective is to recreate an impression of colonial life by turning to clothes to provide insights on a wide range of race, class, gender and economic issues. For the first time, this uses the study of clothing to understand the socio-cultural and economic changes that took place in 19th century Philippine colonial society. The different racial and social groups of the Philippines under Spanish colonization were analyzed in light of their clothing. This locates the study of Philippine clothing practices in the context of a multi-ethnic, multi-cultural colonial society. After centuries of colonization, 19th century Philippines was – and continues to be- an amalgam of indigenous, Western and Chinese cultures. This study of clothing practices as an element of colonial life points to a broader study of cultural interactions, colonial lifestyles, human relations and social behavior. Clothing and appearance were analyzed to understand the ethnic, social and gender hierarchies of that period. This work crosses the frontiers between the disciplines of Philippine studies, colonial history and costume studies

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Wagstaff, Bethany Joy. "Redressing clothing in the Hebrew Bible : material-cultural approaches." Thesis, University of Exeter, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/10871/27594.

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Despite the dynamic portrayal of clothes in the Hebrew Bible scholars continue to interpret them as flat and inert objects. They are often overlooked or reduced to background details in the biblical texts. However, this thesis will demonstrate that the biblical writers’ depictions of clothes are not incidental and should not be reduced to such depictions. This thesis employs a multidisciplinary approach to develop and challenge existing approaches to the clothing imagery in the Hebrew Bible. It will fall into two main parts. In the first part, I draw insights from material-cultural theories to reconfigure ways of thinking about clothing as material objects, and reassessing the relationships between people and objects. Having challenged some of the broader conceptions of clothing, I will turn to interrogate the material and visual evidence for clothing and textiles from ancient Syro- Palestinian and ancient West Asian cultures to construct a perspective of the social and material impact of clothing in the culture in which the biblical texts were constructed and formed. In the second part, I will examine the biblical writers’ depiction of clothing through two case studies: Joseph’s ketonet passim (Genesis 37) and Elijah’s adderet (1 Kings 19 and 2 Kings 2). These analyses will draw from the insights made in the first part of this thesis to reassess and challenge the conventional scholarly interpretations of clothing in these texts. In this thesis, I argue that clothes are employed in powerful ways as material objects which construct and develop the social, religious and material dimensions of the text. They are also intimately entangled in relationships with the characters portrayed by the biblical writers and can even be considered as extensions of the people with whom they are engaged. Clothes manifest their own agency and power, which can transform other persons and objects through their performance and movement in a biblical text.

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Pitman, Sophie. "The making of clothing and the making of London, 1560-1660." Thesis, University of Cambridge, 2017. https://www.repository.cam.ac.uk/handle/1810/269651.

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In recent years, urban historians have established that the period from 1560 to 1660 was a key era for London’s development from a relatively small European urban centre into a large dynamic global capital. This dissertation attempts to intervene in London scholarship by drawing attention to the economic, political, religious and – most significantly – cultural importance of clothing in the city in this period. Using material, visual, literary and archival sources, it explores the ways clothing contributed to the development of early modern London and, in turn, how London’s rapid growth changed the making, wearing, and meaning of clothing. This dissertation places material evidence at the fore using extant objects from museum collections. It also employs the new methodology of reconstruction to explore craft, ingenuity, and emotional self-expression in dress. As clothing infused economic and social life, it draws upon on a wide range of evidence, from London guild records, to portraits, travel accounts, personal letters, diaries and account books, plays, sermons and poems. With a focus on urban experience, this dissertation discusses not only elite luxury consumption, but also investigates the wardrobes of guildsmen, immigrant craftspeople, apprentices and maids – asking what they wore, what they thought about what they were wearing, and how they used clothing to navigate through the city during this time of rapid change. A chapter on the ‘London Look’ shows how inhabitants and visitors documented the visual and material styles of the city. Exploring the collaborative processes by which clothing was made, worn and appreciated by craftspeople and consumers, a chapter on making and buying clothing demonstrates how clothes were made and charts the emergence of a new consumer culture. Existing scholarship on sumptuary laws is challenged in a chapter that demonstrates how laws were enforced in the city while also integrating extant objects into the discussion for the first time. Finally, using a sample of London wills, the dissertation shows how Londoners owned, bequeathed and inherited clothing, and imbued it with emotional meaning. In sum, this dissertation aims to integrate scholarship on early modern London with material culture studies, and to promote the new methodology of reconstruction for historians. In revealing how London was conceived during a time of rapid change, clothing can be used as a lens through which to explore wider discourse about a city that by 1657 was being described as ‘Londinopolis.’ Clothing helped to make London into a wealthy, dynamic, and diverse urban centre, and these changes dramatically shaped the way clothing was made and appreciated.

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Chen, Xiaofen. "The culture, ideology, and design of women's underwear for China." Thesis, University of Central Lancashire, 2018. http://clok.uclan.ac.uk/25465/.

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Lublin, Robert I. "Costuming the Shakespearean stage visual codes of representation in early modern theatre and culture /." Connect to this title online, 2004. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc%5Fnum=osu1060614385.

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Thesis (Ph. D.)--Ohio State University, 2004.
Document formatted into pages; contains x, 256 p. Includes bibliographical references. Abstract available online via OhioLINK's ETD Center; full text release delayed at author's request until 2005 Aug. 11.

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Robson, Jennifer Margaret. "The role of clothing and fashion in the household budget and popular culture, Britain, 1919-1949." Thesis, University of Oxford, 1998. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:af692af1-ce91-4d59-b358-794182015092.

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The central theme of the thesis is how clothing and, to a lesser degree, fashion affected the lives of women in the period from 1919 to 1949. The practical impact of clothing on women is rarely assessed to the same degree as other essentials of life such as food and housing, yet obtaining, maintaining and renewing clothing stocks were issues of the utmost importance to women, particularly those from low-income households, in the inter-war period and the Second World War. The first half of the thesis concentrates upon the role of clothing in the home and in popular culture in the inter-war period. Of particular importance is the role of clothing in the household budget, a subject which has received limited attention from social historians. In households with limited incomes, finding the means to purchase clothing was problematic, and women often resorted to unconventional methods of saving and spending. The role of clothing in middle-class households is examined as well, with an emphasis on the many varieties of shops which supplied ready- to-wear clothing, as well as souces of made-to-measure clothing. And, while antiquarian and sociological studies of fashion abound, little has been written on the practical impact of fashion in the lives of ordinary people. With the development of a mass market after the First World War, the influence of fashion was extended to most of the social classes. Rather than re-examining the changing modes themselves, it is useful to study the impact these fashions had upon people: in the way they regarded and treated one another; and in the way they perceived themselves. The study of the inter-war years thus offers a foundation from which to examine the role of clothing in the Second World War. The price of clothing and footwear rose steeply in the early months of the war, but stabilised once rationing and austerity measures took hold. The ways in which women budgeted, saved for and purchased clothing are discussed, with an emphasis on how these methods differed from pre-war habits. Although the development and implementation of government initiatives is described, the latter portion of the thesis concentrates on the practical effects of such schemes in the day-to-day lives of the British people. The role of fashion in the wartime economy is addressed as well. Austerity programmes stalled any extreme changes in fashion, people wore the same clothing year after year, and uniforms were almost universal. Nevertheless, issues of fashion and style remained important to the public, who in any case were encouraged to maintain high standards of dress and appearance as a sign of patriotism.

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Jones, Jennifer Michelle. ""The taste for fashion and frivolity" gender, clothing and the commercial culture of the old regime /." Google Book Search Library Project, 1991. http://books.google.com/books?id=hrI_AAAAMAAJ.

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Wang, Hui. "Cultural Influences on Toy Design." University of Cincinnati / OhioLINK, 2014. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=ucin1406810905.

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Suthrell, Charlotte. "Clothing culture : sex, gender and cross-dressing with reference to UK transvestites and the hijras of India." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2002. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.270148.

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Silva, Blanc Luisina. "Colonial threads: Clothing and identity in Eighteenth and Early Nineteenth-Century Lima and Mexico City." Doctoral thesis, Universitat Pompeu Fabra, 2019. http://hdl.handle.net/10803/668772.

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Attention toward textile production and clothing consumption in Spanish Latin American increased during the end of the colonial period and was reflected in new regulations, newspaper articles, tighter control by the Catholic Church and the Bourbon reforms. My dissertation addresses why clothing had such significant economic and cultural value and how individuals formed their identity through appearance. I focus on Lima and Mexico City as the primary production, distribution and consumption centers of colonial Latin America. My study centers on several historical documents that I analyze with digital tools as I explore the complex social and cultural negotiation of the colonial fashion system. I argue that dress could both reveal or hide ones’ identity and could display individuality or highlight commonality. My work expands on the notion that clothing reflected moral values whereby luxury and excess were as improper as nakedness. To conclude, I unveil a network of surveillance developed to ensure the secure and accurate distinction of individuals and guarantee proper consumption.
La atención hacia la producción textil y el consumo de indumentaria aumentó en el último período de las colonias españolas en Latinoamérica. Esto se vio reflejado en nuevas regulaciones, artículos de diarios, un control más estricto de la iglesia católica y las reformas borbónicas. Mi tesis doctoral investiga por qué la vestimenta tenía un valor económico y cultural tan importante y cómo las personas construían su identidad a través de la apariencia. Este estudio se centra en Lima y Ciudad de México como los principales puntos de producción, distribución y consumo de moda de Latinoamérica colonial. Mi trabajo se basa en documentos históricos que analizo con herramientas digitales para explorar la compleja negociación social y cultural del sistema de moda transatlántica. La vestimenta podía revelar u ocultar la identidad de la persona y mostrar individualidad o pertenencia a grupos específicos. Mi trabajo amplía la noción de que la apariencia reflejaba valores morales según los cuales el lujo y el exceso eran tan inadecuados como la desnudez. Para concluir, presento una red de vigilancia desarrollada para garantizar el fácil y preciso reconocimiento de los individuos a través de la apariencia y garantizar un consumo adecuado.

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Paula, Camila Galan de. "Num mundo de muitos corpos: um estudos sobre objetos e vestimentas entre os Wajãpi no Amapá." Universidade de São Paulo, 2015. http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/8/8134/tde-11032016-140934/.

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Esta pesquisa parte de preocupação inicial com a aquisição e circulação de bens industrializados por populações indígenas. A partir de pesquisa de campo com os Wajãpi no Amapá (grupo de língua tupi-guarani), seguem-se dois caminhos para lidar com a questão. O primeiro capítulo desta dissertação investiga o modo como os Wajãpi apreciam os objetos e os critérios usados para avaliar uma coisa como boa-bonita (ikatuwa) ou ruim-feia (nikatui). A partir das avaliações desses indígenas, recusa-se a divisão entre objetos industrializados versus manufaturados nas aldeias. As discussões sobre os critérios avaliativos centram-se: (i) na avaliação das coisas por algumas de suas qualidades sensíveis; (ii) na relação entre um objeto, seu processo produtivo, seu produtor e o material utilizado em sua confecção; (iii) na distinção entre originais e importados para os produtos comprados nas cidades; (iv) na facilidade de uso que certas coisas e técnicas apresentam. O segundo capítulo investiga a questão das vestimentas, enfocando as considerações dos Wajãpi sobre o uso de roupas adquiridas nas cidades em comparação a outros elementos de fabricação corporal usados há mais tempo pinturas com urucum, jenipapo, resinas odorantes, uso de tangas e saias vermelhas, miçangas. Em diálogo com análises de outros antropólogos, abordo de diversas maneiras as considerações dos Wajãpi sobre a questão. Acompanho suas comparações entre o uso de roupas e de pinturas corporais na modulação de relações com outras gentes sobrenaturais na divisão naturalista. Trato da articulação entre o uso de certas roupas e a fabricação de corpos adequados e belos, a partir das ideias de combinar e de vergonha. As ideias de imitação (waã) e de acostumar-se (-jipokuwa) são também investigadas. Relaciono a imitação dos não indígenas e o costume de usar suas roupas a outras práticas de imitação realizadas pelos Wajãpi. Por fim, esboço uma compreensão sobre o modo como a busca por certos bens é fomentada também pelas relações entre iniciadores e seguidores. Para tanto, parto das ideias de fazer preconceito, desigualdade, ciúme, inveja. Perpassa esta dissertação a questão da corporalidade e da fabricação corporal. Objetos possuem corpos, têm suas partes nomeadas em paralelo às partes dos corpos de gente wajãpi e de outras gentes animais e plantas, na divisão naturalista. Seguindo outros autores, apresento elementos para problematizar a divisão entre pessoas e coisas, a partir de investimento investigativo na questão da fabricação corporal na confecção de objetos e de gente wajãpi.
This research addresses the acquisition and exchange of industrial goods by Indigenous peoples. Fieldwork was conducted among the Wajãpi (speakers of a Tupi-Guaranian language), in the state of Amapá (Brazil). The ethnographic enquiry lead to two investigative paths. The first chapter of this thesis researches the Wajãpi modes of appraising objects, as well as the criteria used by this people to judge things as good-beautiful (ikatuwa) or bad-ugly (nikatui). The separation of industrialized objects and those manufactured in Indigenous villages does not apply to Wajãpi modes of evaluation. Discussions on evaluation criteria of objects center on: (i) some of the objects sensible qualities; (ii) the relation between an object, its productive process, its producer and the raw material from which it is made; (iii) the distinction between original goods and imported goods, regarding products purchased in cities; (iv) the ease of use of certain things and techniques. The second chapter investigates clothing, focusing on Wajãpi regards to the use of garments acquired in cities and on Wajãpi comparisons between these clothes and other elements of body fabrication urucu paint, genipapo paint, fragrant resins paint, red loincloths and skirts, glass beads. Discussing with other anthropologists analyses, Wajãpi considerations on the subject of clothing are approached in some different ways. I follow their comparisons between the use of clothes and of body paint in the role of mediating Wajãpi relations with other peoples supernaturals in the division of the naturalism. I discuss the link between the use of certain clothes and the fabrication of adequate and beautiful bodies, focusing on the ideas of combinar (to harmonize, to match) and vergonha (shyness, reserve). The ideas of imitation (waã) and acostumar-se (-jipokuwa) [to accustom someone to] are also investigated. The imitation of non-Indigenous manners and the custom of using of their garments is described in regard to other imitation practices performed by Wajãpi people. Finally, I outline a first understanding of how the relations between leaders and followers compels Wajãpi people to seek certain goods. To this purpose, I discuss the ideas of fazer preconceito (to make prejudice), desigualdade (inequality), ciúme (jealousy), inveja (envy). Corporality and body fabrication are topics which pervades this thesis. Objects have bodies, their parts names parallel the parts of Wajãpi bodies and bodies of other peoples animals and plants, in the naturalistic division. Following other authors, I present data that leads to question the division between people and things, as an aftermath of investigating body fabrication the making of objects and of Wajãpi people.

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Fenton-Douglas, Joyce. "From hand craft to digital technology : a practice-based material culture analysis of the historical and contemporary ancillary trades of the London élite fashion industry." Thesis, University of the Arts London, 2015. http://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/8922/.

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The ancillary trades of the London based élite fashion industry are the focus of this practice-based research, which is founded in material culture studies. Hitherto these trades have not been the subject of any in depth scholarly work, and therefore this thesis seeks to make a contribution to knowledge by assessing and documenting their historical and contemporary application and significance; by examining and assessing the potential of laser technology to those trades that are concerned with embellishment; and by developing and applying a material culture framework to the execution and analysis of practice. The ancillary trades serve the material production of luxury fashion through the small scale, bespoke manufacturing of items such as artificial flowers and buttons; and the provision of specialist finishes such as bead-work, embroidery and pleating. These trades have developed little over the last century or more and most still involve varying degrees of skilled hand-making processes; but while their French counterparts are widely recognised as crafts, they remain an entity to which scant attention has been paid in assessments of either élite British fashion or of the crafts in Britain. Through a series of material culture analyses this research critically evaluates these trades, examining their contribution to the necessary distinction of historical and contemporary élite fashionable dress, and investigating the making practices and wider circumstances of key trades and practitioners. The contextual research not only situates the empirical practice-based case study in the field of interest but also is significant in informing the aesthetics and techniques invoked in practice. The potential of laser technology is investigated in the production of items of embellishment, alternatives to the more ubiquitous sequins, beads and faux jewels. Presented and critically evaluated within the thesis, the outcomes, a series of embellished textile proposals for the élite fashion industry, are hybrids of industrial process and hand-making techniques. Artefacts are central to this research. The interdisciplinary material culture theory and method of Jules David Prown, foregrounding the artefact as a repository of information, has been adopted for the contextual research and further developed in relation to the analysis of the objects that inform practice, while the outcomes of practice serve as material mnemonics in the retrieval of the intimacies of the making process. Referring to a range of associated literature, archival research and interview findings, the outcomes of the ancillary trades and of practice are examined in the aesthetic, cultural, technological, and socio-economic circumstances of their production and consumption.

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Gibson-Tessendorf, Cornel. "An exploration of the role of uniforms in contributing to the embedding and transmitting of organizational culture." Thesis, Rhodes University, 2005. http://hdl.handle.net/10962/d1002786.

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Many companies today are using some form of uniforms for employees. This research is an exploration of the role of uniforms in contributing to the embedding and transmitting of organizational culture. Culture is the experiences and common learning of the organization that results in shared values and beliefs. According to Schein (1985: 14) culture has three levels, namely: artifacts, values, and basic underlying assumptions. The first level of the culture consists of the physical constructs of the organization, and therefore includes the uniforms, which is the focus of this study. Schein (1985: 223) further proposes that culture can be embedded and transmitted through various mechanisms. The research was conducted in the constructivist paradigm, at a tertiary institution of higher learning in Eastern Cape, South Africa. To ensure triangulation, three sources of data were used, namely: documentation; observation; and both individual and focus group interviews. The researcher argues that uniforms played a role in the embedding of the sample organization’s three levels of culture, which were expressed in terms of Hofstede’s (1991: 07) culture dimensions. Firstly, the use of the different uniforms by different groups, as well as the ranking indicated by the uniforms, played a role in embedding the high power distance culture. Secondly, the symbolism of security portrayed by the uniform played a role in embedding the high uncertainty avoidance culture. Thirdly, it was found that the uniform created unity amongst groups, resulting in greater expression of collectivism. Fourthly, the use of sensible and practical uniforms plays a role in embedding the feminine culture where competitiveness is avoided and relationships are nurtured. Lastly, the uniform plays a possible role in transforming the culture from short-term to a long-term orientation that focuses on the future.

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Cespedes-Pino, R., J. Hurtado-Laguna, I. Macassi-Jaurequi, C. Raymundo-Ibañez, and F. Dominguez. "LEAN Production Management Model based on Organizational Culture to Improve Cutting Process Efficiency in a Textile and Clothing SME in Peru." Institute of Physics Publishing, 2020. http://hdl.handle.net/10757/656391.

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El texto completo de este trabajo no está disponible en el Repositorio Académico UPC por restricciones de la casa editorial donde ha sido publicado.
In recent years, homegrown SMEs have had low production levels when compared with Chinese garment imports, losing their competitive advantage in the domestic market. SMEs represent 96% of garment companies in Peru and have a positive impact on the creation of jobs. The search for a technique to improve SME output was conducted in various studies; however, the efforts did not bear fruit over time. Thus, this article seeks to improve the low production efficiency in textile and clothing SMEs. Therefore, we proposed a model and validated it in the production area of a denim clothing manufacturing company in Peru. We conducted business diagnostics and found a production efficiency problem. Later, we adapted the Lean production management model to the prevailing organizational culture. The main result was that the company's production efficiency increased from 68% to 71%. Finally, employee commitment, along with the combination of the Lean model and organizational culture, allowed the improvements to stand the test of time after their implementation.

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Araujo, João Gabriel Farias Barbosa de. "Arquitetura por um fio: vestes e abrigos de povos ciganos e nômades." Universidade de São Paulo, 2017. http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/16/16134/tde-01062017-160241/.

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A dissertação propõe o estudo da cultura material - representada pela arquitetura e indumentária - de sociedades que mantém ou em algum momento tiveram comportamentos nômades. A pesquisa se ocupa de corpos que estão em movimento, marcados por ritos e exposto a condições ambientais extremas; vestuários e acessórios feitos sob medida e imbuídos de poderes sobrenaturais e habitações conscientes de sua efemeridade. Seu objetivo geral é estudar as inter-relações que se estabelecem através de suportes efêmeros como as habitações e trajes. Em específico ela busca conhecer os processos de produção do espaço da habitação nômade; apreender e identificar o processo de concepção, confecção e uso dos vestuários; perceber a importância das manifestações da cultura material nômade para a sua identidade e estética e procurar similaridades construtivas, visuais e estéticas entre vestes e abrigos nômades. A dissertação é o resultado da revisão bibliográfica que transita pelos trabalhos de Bernard Rudofsky, Florencia Ferrari, Labelle Prussin, Mark Jarzombek, Mette Bovin, Paul Oliver, Robert Kroenenburg, Torvald Faegre entre outros; do estudo de caso dos Ciganos Calons e de quatro povos nômades: Beduínos, Inuit, Tuaregues e Wodaabes; das visitas realizadas aos acampamentos Calons em São Paulo e no Espírito Santo e das entrevistas à costureira especializada em vestidos ciganos. Esta obra fortalece o vínculo conceitual e prático entre indumentária e arquitetura através do estudo paralelo dessas duas manifestações culturais. Ela constata que o vestuário nômade vai muito além da necessidade de proteção e do desejo de ornamentação, muitas vezes estando relacionado à cosmologia ou aos mitos e crenças destas sociedades e reitera a importância de repensarmos as concepções clássicas e eruditas da arquitetura.
This dissertation aims to study the material culture - represented by the architecture and clothing - of societies that maintain or at some point had nomadic behaviors. The research deals with bodies that are in movement, marked by rites and exposed to extreme environmental conditions; Clothing and accessories made to measure and imbued with supernatural powers and dwellings aware of their ephemerality. Its general objective is to study the interrelationships that are established through ephemeral supports such as shelters and costumes. Speci?ically, it seeks to know the processes of production of the nomadic housing space; to seize and identify the process of designing, making and using garments; to perceive the importance of nomadic material culture manifestations for their identity and aesthetics and to look for constructive, visual and aesthetic similarities between nomadic garments and shelters. The dissertation is the result of the bibliographical review of the works of Bernard Rudofsky, Florencia Ferrari, Labelle Prussin, Mark Jarzombek, Mette Bovin, Paul Oliver, Robert Kroenenburg, Torvald Faegre among others; the case study of the Calon Gypsies and four other nomadic societies: Bedouin, Inuit, Tuareg and Wodaabes; visits to the Calon camps in São Paulo and Espírito Santo and interviews with the seamstress specialized in gypsy dresses. This work strengthens the conceptual and practical link between clothing and architecture through the parallel study of these two cultural manifestations. It ?inds that the nomadic clothing goes far beyond the need for protection and the desire for ornamentation, often being related to the cosmology or the myths and beliefs of these societies and reiterates the importance of rethinking the classic and scholarly conceptions of architecture.

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Cambridge, Nicolas Adam. "Son of Samurai, daughter of butterfly : fashioning Japan in the sartorial culture of the United Kingdom, 1980-2006." Thesis, University of the Arts London, 2008. http://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/6508/.

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The thesis addresses the reception and consumption of Japanese fashion in the U.K. between 1980 and 2006 and concomitant constructions of Japanese identity in the critical discourses surrounding fashion. It examines the impacts of the sartorial traffic emanating from the Japanese fashion system, the creative outputs of which are polarised in Western critical thought as either unreflective cultural borrowings (Japanisation, appropriation) or as embodying an unfathomable Eastern aesthetic (zen, wabi/sabi, wa). Building on a substantive account of the cultural impacts of the initial encounters with the West, the investigation identifies sites where Japanese sartorial culture is consumed in the form of text, image and artefact. A variety of methodological approaches are mobilised in the analysis of data from retail outlets, cultural institutions and media publications. Material pertaining to "high-concept designers" whose outputs are largely consumed within visual and intellectual contexts is balanced by that from "high street apparel makers" operating in a more commercially-oriented manner. Findings regarding the role of an "intermediate matrix" of designers/brands employing creative approaches and retail strategies that supersede issues of culture, race and historicity are presented in order to map a creative continuum in contemporary Japanese fashion design. In addressing the imbrications of Japanese identity and contemporary sartorial practice, the thesis interrogates research findings from creative, commercial, critical, curatorial and mass media sources within a framework of existing academic accounts of the construction of Japan in the Western mind. The conclusion articulates new readings of the nature of "Japanese-ness" available to a globally connected audience and identifies a gendered differentiation between visual representations of Japanese-designed fashion mediated through the gatekeepers of sartorial culture in the United Kingdom.

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Corrêa, Jaergenton de Souza. "Autoestilismo em diáspora: modelando tradições têxteis desde o Hip-hop." Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo, 2014. https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/12850.

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This research presents the developments of the textile family production, as support for the cultural preservation and the strengthening of african diasporic traditions in Brazil. From the contact with HIP-HOP, artistic, political, cultural and educational mediations are established through the tissues. New technologies and influences with various inhabited diasporas in São Paulo provided the adaptation of the textile tradition in order to gain personal and collective autonomy, where each body is the proponent of its expansion, by personal and ancestral experience transposed in modelling and stamping. The meeting between sports, the peripheral landscape and the virtual world resulted in disconnected performing propositions for the rails of the classic Eurocentric fashion catwalk, which will be analysed here as resistance from the oral tradition shaped in clothing
Essa pesquisa apresenta desdobramentos da produção têxtil familiar, como suporte de preservação cultural e fortalecimento de tradições afro diaspóricas no Brasil. A partir do contato com o HIP-HOP, são estabelecidas mediações artísticas, politicas, culturais e educativas através dos tecidos. Novas tecnologias e influências com diversas diásporas habitadas na cidade de São Paulo, proporcionaram a adaptação da tradição têxtil, no intuito da autonomia pessoal e coletiva. Onde cada corpo é o proponente de sua expansão, pelas experiências pessoais e ancestrais transpostas nas modelagens e nas estamparias. O encontro entre os esportes, a paisagem periférica e o mundo virtual resultaram em proposições performáticas desconexas aos trilhos das passarelas clássicas da moda eurocêntrica, que serão analisadas aqui como resistência da tradição oral plasmadas na vestimenta

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JÃnior, Edilson Brasil de Souza. "Diante dos Olhos Deles: ReflexÃes sobre corpo e contemporaneidade." Universidade Federal do CearÃ, 2010. http://www.teses.ufc.br/tde_busca/arquivo.php?codArquivo=5407.

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nÃo hÃ
Este trabalho tem como objetivo analisar as potencialidades corporais do individuo contemporÃneo em sua luta diÃria pela conquista da individualidade e do reconhecimento coletivo. Para tanto, a pesquisa toma como objeto o reality show estadunidense Americaâs Next Top Model a fim de tentar compreender melhor, a partir das experiÃncias das candidatas do programa, como se estabelecem as relaÃÃes tÃticas e estratÃgicas entre o sujeito e o mundo e de que forma as expectativas e conseqÃÃncias geradas por esses âembates cotidianosâ com a realidade e com o Outro chegam ao corpo, transformando-o numa âarmaâ e num produto sociocultural. Partindo dessa lÃgica, o trabalho pretende analisar como sÃo construÃdas â imagÃtica e discursivamente - as representaÃÃes do corpo feminino no reality e como essas representaÃÃes, ao se adequarem Ãs exigÃncias do mercado global da informaÃÃo e dos bens de consumo, refletem questÃes sociais e culturais ligadas Ã identidade, ao gÃnero e Ã sexualidade na contemporaneidade.

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Platz, Teresa Katharina. "Café culture : socio-historical transformations of space, personhood and middle class in Pune, India." Thesis, Durham University, 2012. http://etheses.dur.ac.uk/4461/.

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Café Culture is an ethnographic snapshot, taken in 2008, tracing the effects of globalisation from the perspective of young middle class urbanites in post-liberalisation Pune, India. It captures what was happening that sets this young generation apart – the first to grow up in post-liberalisation India – as a group in historical time, in relation to other life worlds in India, to 'Western' versions and as a rounded life world in itself. In 1991 India conclusively opened its economy to the global market economy. My ethnography shows that trends following economic liberalisation in unprecedented ways spurred changes that were already underway. It facilitated not only the emergence of a commodified leisure culture in the form of cafés, targeted at and appropriated by the young urban middle class, but also the creation of new fashions, more living space, national and international employment, mobility and economic independence. These tangible changes went hand in hand with transformations in practices and moral aesthetic standards. The young generation was challenging their parents' and wider society's values in order to negotiate who they wanted and felt they ought to be in their rapidly changing world. In their friendships, café culture activities, fashion choices, education and love lives they increasingly valued, encouraged and expected equality, freedom and the expression of individuality. However, the different chapters highlight that these trends were measured and limited by class- and generation-based practices and moral aesthetic standards which amended rather than negated older patriarchal arrangements predicated on the ideal of joint family life. The young café culture crowd was negotiating to follow their hearts, while preserving strong family bonds and inter-generational dependencies. They were thus modifying what it meant to be middle class Indians in our contemporary world of flow of people, capital, ideas, images, information and goods.

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Guido, Ligia Souza 1985. "Sob capas e mantos : roupa e cultura material na Vila de Itu, 1765-1808." [s.n.], 2015. http://repositorio.unicamp.br/jspui/handle/REPOSIP/279667.

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Orientador: Leila Mezan Algranti
Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas
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Resumo: O presente trabalho dedica-se ao estudo das roupas nas dimensões material e simbólica no período que corresponde ao crescimento da produção açucareira e da consolidação do núcleo urbano da vila de Itu, capitania de São Paulo, entre 1765 e 1808. A aparência dos indivíduos em uma sociedade com características de Antigo Regime aliada a presença da escravidão consistia em um elemento importante de identificação e ordenamento social. A materialidade é compreendida através da descrição e da valoração atribuídas aos artefatos têxteis descritos principalmente nos arrolamentos de bens dos inventários post-mortem. Procedemos ao levantamento de informações complementares sobre os indivíduos junto aos Maços de População (censos) e em trabalhos de genealogia. Também coletamos dados sobre as importações de produtos realizadas pela de vila de Itu nos Mapas de Importação, relação pertencente aos Maços de População. Através dos bens descritos na documentação de quarenta e quatro inventariados que residiam na vila de Itu, foi possível montar um quadro da composição material dos bens dos indivíduos e seus domicílios, vislumbrando suas fontes de rendas, seus espaços de trabalho, de moradia, bem como os objetos que compunham os seus pertences. No momento em que os bens eram divididos entre os herdeiros, os objetos ou a quantia referente aos dotes ou adiantamentos de heranças eram mencionados, evidenciando assim, a circulação de bens promovida em vida e após o falecimento de um dos genitores. Além dos inventários da vila de Itu, foram consultados vinte e quatro inventários póstumos da cidade de Lisboa, referentes aos mesmos anos da amostra ituana, para efeito de comparação entre os padrões metropolitanos e coloniais de tipos de roupas, tecidos e adereços em circulação antes da abertura dos portos brasileiros em 1808
Abstract: This work is dedicated to the study of clothing considering both material and symbolic dimensions in the period that corresponds to the growth of sugar production and to the consolidation of the urban nucleus of the small town Itu, captaincy of São Paulo, between 1765 and 1808. The appearance of the individuals in a society during the so-called Old Regime, combined with the presence of slavery was an important element of identification and social ranking. Materiality is understood from the description and the rating assigned to the textile articles described mainly in listing of goods of post-mortem inventories. The survey was conducted for further information on individuals from the Maços de População (census) and genealogy work. We also collected data on imports of products made by the Itu village next to the Mapas de Importação, this relationship belonging to the Maços de População. Through the goods described in the documentation of forty-four inventoried residing in small town Itu, it was possible to assemble a picture of the material composition of the assets of individuals and their homes, seeing their sources of income, their workspaces, housing and the objects that made up their belongings. By the time the goods were divided among the heirs, the objects or the amount related to gifts or inheritances of advances were mentioned, thus underlining the movement of goods promoted in life and after the death of a parent. Besides the inventories from Itu, nineteen posthumous inventories of Lisbon were consulted, relating to the same years of Ituana sample for comparison between metropolitan and colonial patterns of kinds of garments, fabrics and accessories in circulation before the opening of Brazilian ports in 1808
Mestrado
Politica, Memoria e Cidade
Mestra em História

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Gomes, Natassia de Melo Gomes. "Consumo e maternidade: um estudo sobre o consumo simb?lico como meio de constru??o da identidade materna." Universidade Federal Rural do Rio de Janeiro, 2015. https://tede.ufrrj.br/jspui/handle/jspui/2051.

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Consumption plays an important role in the construction of identities and one of the main ways to express and define the members of a group is through the shared consumption symbols. The dress can be understood as a reflection of the identity of the individual to reflect rules and roles that peopleplay in the dynamics of social life. Thus, the consumption of products and services related to clothing in this work is presented in its role to build personal and collective meanings, establish and highlight cultural categories, being the focus of this study, maternal identity. Motherhood, rather than a biological event, is a social phenomenon that carries cultural and ideological pictures, the maternal identity constructed from the time when the woman is seen inserted in the new maternity context that may occur through experiences consumption. During pregnancy, the dress mode is naturally modified by new modifications of the body, making it necessary choices for new clothes. The symbolic consumption and consequently the meanings culturally constituted and assigned to goods has as intrinsic characteristic concern insertion in social groups. In addition, there is also a concern to keep and represent their images and identities to consume products that are consistent with their respective personalities and that could best represent them. In this way, the aim of this study was to analyze how the meanings attributed to clothing assist women in the construction of maternal identity. To achieve this purpose were carried 10 in-depth interviews with women who had become mothers in the last 24 months. The main results showed that the clothes are transmitters of communication and definition of this new identity to the woman, still occurring in the liminal period or just after birth. The choice of clothing in the post-liminal period is ruled on several matters, the most recurrent being the issue of social norms imposed on what is considered an ideal mother and what she should dress. Beyond this social issue, the changes in the body and the body perception of women are seen as an influencer for change of clothes in the post-liminal period. The stripping ritual, which takes place at this stage of the rite of passage, is closely linked to the issue of the body as it characterizes the need that women see in clear meanings attributed to an outfit that used during pregnancy.It can be seen that despite the construction of maternal identity be demarcated at different times as the discovery of pregnancy, purchasing products, the changes of the body or through the birth, it is important to emphasize that only through the daily ritual activities that symbolic changes are reinforced
O consumo desempenha um papel importante na constru??o das identidades e uma das principais formas de se expressar e definir os membros de um grupo ? atrav?s dos s?mbolos de consumo partilhados. O vestu?rio pode ser entendido como um reflexo da identidade do indiv?duo ao refletir regras e pap?is que os indiv?duos desempenham na din?mica da vida social. Assim, o consumo dos produtos e servi?os relacionados ao vestu?rio, neste trabalho, se apresenta em seu papel de construir significados pessoais e coletivos, estabelecer e evidenciar categorias culturais, sendo foco da presente pesquisa, a identidade materna. A maternidade, mais do que um evento biol?gico, constitui um fen?meno social, que carrega imagens culturais e ideol?gicas, sendo a identidade materna constru?da a partir do momento em que a mulher se v? inserida no novo contexto da maternidade, que pode ocorrer atrav?s das experi?ncias de consumo. Durante a gesta??o e ap?s o nascimento do beb?, o modo de se vestir ? naturalmente modificado devido ?s transforma??es do corpo, tornando-se necess?rio as escolhas por novas roupas. O consumo simb?lico das roupas e consequentemente os significados culturalmente constitu?dos e atribu?dos aos bens t?m como caracter?stica intr?nseca a preocupa??o de inser??o em grupos sociais. Al?m disso, existe tamb?m uma preocupa??o em manter e representar as suas imagens ou identidades ao consumir produtos que condizem com as suas respectivas personalidades e que possam melhor represent?-los. Desta forma, o objetivo deste trabalho foi analisar como os significados atribu?dos ao vestu?rio auxiliam as mulheres na constru??o da identidade materna. Para atingir o objetivo proposto, foram realizadas 10 entrevistas em profundidade com mulheres que se tornaram m?es nos ?ltimos 24 meses. Os principais resultados mostraram que as roupas s?o transmissoras de comunica??o e defini??o desta nova identidade ? mulher, ocorrendo ainda no per?odo liminar ou somente ap?s o nascimento do beb?. A escolha do vestu?rio, no per?odo p?s-liminar, ? pautada em diversas quest?es, sendo a mais recidivante a quest?o da normatiza??o social impostas ao que se considera uma m?e ideal e ao que ela deve vestir. Al?m desta quest?o social, as modifica??es no corpo e a percep??o corporal das mulheres s?o vistas como um influenciador para a mudan?a das roupas no per?odo p?s-liminar. O ritual de despojamento, que ocorre nesta fase do rito de passagem, est? intimamente ligado ? quest?o do corpo, pois caracteriza a necessidade que as mulheres veem em apagar significados atribu?dos a uma roupa que usou durante a gesta??o. Percebeu-se assim que apesar da constru??o da identidade materna ser demarcada em diferentes momentos como o da descoberta da gravidez, da aquisi??o de produtos, das mudan?as do corpo ou atrav?s do parto, ? importante ressaltar que somente atrav?s das atividades rituais di?rias que as mudan?as simb?licas s?o refor?adas

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Dunn, Steven T. "Weaponizing Ordinary Objects: Women, Masculine Performance, and the Anxieties of Men in Medieval Iceland." Scholar Commons, 2019. https://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/7781.

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This thesis unravels the deeper meanings attributed to ordinary objects, such as clothing and food, in thirteenth-century Icelandic literature and legal records. I argue that women weaponized these ordinary objects to circumvent their social and legal disadvantages by performing acts that medieval Icelandic society deemed masculine. By comparing various literary sources, however, I show that medieval Icelandic society gradually redefined and questioned the acceptability of that behavior, especially during the thirteenth-century. This is particularly evident in the late thirteenth-century Njal’s Saga, wherein a woman named Hallgerd has been villainized for stealing cheese from a troublesome neighbor. If Hallgerd were a man, this behavior would have been considered rán, which was a masculine act whereby men challenged one another to take things by force. As a woman, however, Hallgerd’s clever use of ordinary objects was unsettling to men; her act, although mirroring the masculine expectations of rán, has been condemned by the author. Thus, by emphasizing the anxieties of men regarding such behavior, it is evident that later male authors, particularly those writing from the late thirteenth century onwards, considered this behavior as preventing society’s progression away from extra-legal conflict resolution. In doing so, the author of Njal’s Saga demonstrated that both women and men were aware of the power that these ordinary objects had in the hands of ambitious women, as well as how potentially dangerous and harmful to society they could be.

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Yamane, Laura Ayako. "Moda e cultura popular paulista: contribuições e possibilidades." Universidade de São Paulo, 2014. http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/27/27159/tde-02022015-153224/.

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Este projeto tem como objetivo pesquisar as possibilidades de inserção da Cultura Popular Paulista na produção em moda, em especial aquela produzida na região do Vale do Paraíba, desde os festejos religiosos, considerando as três principais grupos devocionais da Cultura Paulista: Grupos de Moçambique, Congada Paulista e Festa do Divino. Neste estudo a intenção é analisar a relação entre a produção atual em moda no Brasil, que já utiliza elementos da cultura popular brasileira, buscando compreender o processo de recriação e apropriação dos elementos do folclore. O estudo dessas correntes populares possibilitará criar algumas categorias para a seleção dos elementos que podem ser utilizados na produção em estamparia e design de vestuário. É necessário saber o que realmente faz parte da cultura popular e conhecer os fatos folclóricos como eles são e pergunta-se: como, onde, quando ver estes fatos folclóricos? Essas duas fontes de pesquisa têm o objetivo de mapear, categorizar e compreender o que é selecionado nas várias etapas da produção de moda explicitando esse processo de recriação da cultura popular e sua incorporação por essa indústria. A pesquisa é feita em estudo qualitativo: anotações em campo, observar a realidade, entrevistando elementos do povo, procurando conhecer a mentalidade e o comportamento \"folk\", além de colher material audiovisual, ir a eventos populares, que vão se modificando com o passar dos anos, isso faz parte da própria dinâmica sociocultural.
This project aims to research the insertion possibilities of Sao Paulo State Popular Culture into fashion production, mainly those manufactured in Vale do Paraiba at religious festivals considering the main three devotional groups of Sao Paulo State culture: Grupos de Moçambique, Congada Paulista and Festa do Divino. In this study, the objective is to analyze the relation between Brazil\'s fashion production nowadays, which already employs elements of Brazilian popular culture, aiming to comprehend the process of recreation and appropriation of folklore elements. The study of the mentioned groups will enable the creation of categories for the selection of elements that could be applied to printworks production and clothing design. It is necessary to know what is part of popular culture and know the folkloric facts as the locals know and this question arises: how, where and when to look these folkloric facts? These two research sources have the objective to map, categorize and comprehend what is selected on different stages of fashion manufacturing and expliciting this recreation process of popular culture and its incorporation by this industry. This is a qualitative study: field observations, close look to reality, interviewing folk elements aiming to know the mentality and the folk behavior and besides collecting audiovisual material and visiting popular events that change throughout the time considering its own social and cultural dynamics.

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KATENDE, VIOLA. "DEAD END : The European Movement and Disappearance of Local Traditional African Clothing Designs, Styles, and Cultural Meaning. An Exchange of Cultural Identity." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Institutionen Textilhögskolan, 2014. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-17997.

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This thesis aims at showcasing the movement of African cultural meaning from Africa to Europe by Europeans in their involvement in the African slave trade as well as the colonization of Africa, which was the imprisonment of the African cultural expression as well as a limitation of its development and further production. The thesis also addresses one of the reason for the global circulation of the European culture, which is the search and achievement of absolute power and control over the minds of its conquests in order to become a dominant culture. Note, however that the act of becoming a dominant culture stem from the European cultural persuasion of the dominance of its culture by its self and not a reflection of epistemological and ontological superiority. Note also that in claiming to be a dominant culture, the European culture is in reality only in control of its conquests, which are cultures whose nature is to its full knowledge, and whose meaning it distributes upon will and purpose. Therefore, the movement of African cultural values, norms and beliefs to Europe and the Euro‐Atlantic world, implies that the ideas from which the European fashion system´s inspiration is founded, are in essence not only European derived. This conclusion is based on a critical analysis of the nature of the European culture and its authentic self, a self that produces European culture.
Program: Textilt management, fashion management

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Darku, Esther Naa Dodua. "Commerce powered by 'National culture'? : an assessment of "Wear Local" campaigns as tools for reinvigorating the textile and clothing industries in Ghana and South Africa." Thesis, University of Fort Hare, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/10353/2172.

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This study examines the use of ‘cultural’ imagery and messaging as a tool to revitalise crucial national industries. Specifically, it examines the use of Wear Local campaigns in Ghana and South Africa as strategies to rejuvenate their textile industries and to make them viable in an increasingly competitive global market. Conceptualising Wear Local campaigns as possessing both cultural and economic imperatives, this study highlights how both factors contribute to making products of Buy Local campaigns marketable by showing their importance as both cultural and economic products. Using a descriptive-evaluative design, the study adopted a triangulated research approach comprising a survey, key informant interviews and document analysis. Survey questionnaires were administered to a total sample of 308 respondents in Ghana and South Africa. The qualitative phase of the study involved 10 key informant interviews (comprising textile labour unions, clothing designers, and government officials in both countries) and document/documentary research. The quantitative data were analysed using descriptive and inferential statistics, while the qualitative data were analysed using interpretive approaches, such as content analysis. The results indicate significant uses of national cultural elements in the campaign messaging in both Ghana and South Africa, as well as notable differences in the ways in which these campaigns resonated with consumers in the two countries. For instance, cultural differences accounted for high popularity of the campaign in Ghana and low popularity in South Africa. Following from these findings, the study concludes that the discourse on Buy Local and Wear Local, and the use of national culture in commerce, must go beyond the question of efficacy to examine the conditions under which these campaigns can become an effective economic/market tool. The study makes an important contribution to the existing knowledge on national culture, national economy and globalisation.

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Chen, Yin Xuan. "Impacts of internet beauty celebrities on female consumerism culture in the contemporary China." Thesis, University of Macau, 2018. http://umaclib3.umac.mo/record=b3952602.

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Bartholeyns, Gil. "Naissance d'une culture des apparences : le vêtement en Occident, XIIIe-XIVe siècle." Doctoral thesis, Universite Libre de Bruxelles, 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/2013/ULB-DIPOT:oai:dipot.ulb.ac.be:2013/210550.

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Cette recherche propose une histoire immatérielle du vêtement en Occident et plus particulièrement autour des XIIIe et XIVe siècles. Que signifie s’habiller dans les sociétés occidentales où le christianisme apparaît, à l’origine, puis dans son principe, comme une contre-culture inversant le système de valeurs de la sociabilité matérielle historique.

Le développement s’attache au changement radical d’attitudes à l’égard du vêtement dans les communautés chrétiennes du Bas-Empire romain du IIe au IVe siècle ;à l’institutionnalisation des apparences chrétiennes au haut Moyen Age ;à la métaphore du vêtement comme grande figure explicative des mythes chrétiens ;au statut anthropologique du vêtement dans la pensée et les pratiques médiévales ;à l’histoire de la valeur de l’objet technique et corporel ;aux modèles de consommation des biens de luxe ;au gouvernement politique par les apparences à la fin du Moyen Âge ;aux causes de la transformation des formes du vêtement jusqu’à la naissance du phénomène de mode. Toutes les sources (théologie, littérature populaire, comptabilité, archives judiciaires, images) sont convoquées, parfois de manière quantitative. Lorsque c’est possible le raisonnement procède par inversion :mettre en lumière des situations ponctuelles par l’arrière-plan normatif ou affectif, comprendre les phénomènes de longue durée ou les contradictions internes à une société au moyen de cas précis (une controverse, par exemple). Une expérience de description « intégrée » du récit historique est donc tentée, séparant le moins possible les « univers » (le social, l’économique, le symbolique, l’esthétique…) qui forment d’un seul tenant une culture. Si l’on souhaite faire une histoire du vêtement médiéval, il n’est pas dit que les moments, les pratiques ou les auteurs interrogés appartiennent à ce que l’on appelle couramment le Moyen Âge.

Doctorat en Histoire, art et archéologie
info:eu-repo/semantics/nonPublished

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Woods, Christopher Huia. "Masqueulinities [sic] an [sic] MA thesis by practice /." Click here to access this resource online, 2007. http://repositoryaut.lconz.ac.nz/theses/1368/.

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Alexandersson, Elin, and Rasha Matlak. "Cultural Differences in Fashion Magazines : Targeting Vogue." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2017. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-12715.

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The purpose of this study is to examine how different cultures within clothing and fashion are featured in the magazine Vogues fashion reportages. The aim is to enlighten editors with infashion media of these cultural differences in order to increase diversity. To pursue the purpose of the study a qualitative approach was chosen where photographs were used as the data that later on was studied through an image analysis. The study looks at six different editions of the fashion magazine Vogue, which indicates a chosen research design as multiple case studies. The six Vogue editions are: US, Japan, Paris, Arabia, India and Brazil, in which clothes, color and context have been analyzed in each editions reportages. The editions Vogue US, Vogue Japan, Vogue Paris, Vogue Arabia, Vogue India and Vogue Brazil reportages wa sanalyzed and compared, and distinct cultural differences was seen in terms of color, cultural clothing and fashion contexts. While Vogue US, Vogue Japan and Vogue Brazil had a widerange in diversity regarding models with different appearance, which were light-skinned anddark-skinned, Vogue Arabia, Vogue India and Vogue Paris had not. Vogue Arabia, Vogue India, Vogue US and Vogue Japan were however diverse in the cultural clothing, where clothes that was shown in the reportages was a mix of different cultural clothes. The researchers therefore found Vogue US and Vogue Japan the most diverse.

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Nepomuceno, Gisele de Lima Melo. "O jeans e a cultura juvenil: contribuições possíveis sobre o crescimento da indústria de confecção no Brasil." Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora (UFJF), 2017. https://repositorio.ufjf.br/jspui/handle/ufjf/6638.

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Essa dissertação investiga o desenvolvimento da indústria têxtil e de confecção a partir da produção do jeans nas décadas de 1960 a 1980 no Brasil. Tal análise servirá de base para compreender como o advento da cultura juvenil na década de 1960 — e o uso generalizado do jeans, que figurou importante papel como uniforme juvenil, popularizando-se para todas as outras gerações — pode contribuir para a maior profissionalização e desenvolvimento da indústria de confecção nacional. Para além da modernização da indústria têxtil brasileira — que exigia um maquinário adequado e mão de obra mais qualificada —, o advento do jeans como traje para todas as ocasiões encontrou na propaganda de moda um suporte também mais modernizado para a divulgação do material como ícone do comportamento juvenil. Essa imagem da valorização da produção nacional, que antes era destinada quase exclusivamente às classes populares e a partir de uma modelagem que ressalta a sensualidade passa a ser um produto aceito em todas as classes vai evoluir nas décadas de 1970 e 1980 para um modelo não só ligado ao público jovem. com a expansão do uso do jeans para outras faixas etárias. Mas focado no corpo e na sensualidade e, justamente associado à imagem do erotismo, que se tornará característico da produção do jeans tipicamente brasileiro.
This thesis investigates the development of the textile and clothing industry from the production of jeans in the 1960s and 1980s in Brazil. The analysis can be a basis to how the growth of youth culture in the 1960´s — and the general use of jeans, that became the youth uniform clothing, making it´s way to all the next generations — contributed to professionalization and development to the brazilian clothing industry. Beyond the modernization of brazilian textile industry, as it demanded better machines and qualified employees, the growth of jeans use to an all ocasions clothing, found in the fashion marketing a modernized support for making this garment into a youth behavior statement. This image of the valorization of national production, which was previously destined almost exclusively to the popular classes and from a modeling that emphasizes sensuality, becomes an accepted product in all classes. It will evolve in the 1970s and 1980s to a model not only Connected to young audiences. With the expansion of the use of jeans for other age groups. But focused on body and sensuality, and precisely associated with the image of eroticism, which will become characteristic of the production of typically Brazilian jeans.

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Nikolaou, Ioanna. "New consumption identities in virtual worlds : the case of 'Second Life'." Thesis, University of Bradford, 2011. http://hdl.handle.net/10454/5640.

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The dynamic development of new technologies influences consumers in many different ways reaching far beyond the shift in consumption patterns, challenging the way consumers live their lives. The role of new information technologies is continually growing in our daily lives changing the way we see the self and the world around us. Consequently, the advent of the computer culture incites a radical rethinking of who we are and the nature of being human, which clearly illustrates the postmodern age. As a result, over the past decades consumer research has moved away from simply viewing consumers as information processors to consumers as socially conceptualized beings. This Consumer Culture Theory (CCT) movement views consumers and consumer behaviour as articulations of meanings and materiality within the productive of complex cultural milieu. This ethnographic thesis focuses on the three-dimensional virtual world of Second Life, which is a 'Real Life' simulation and where the residents represent themselves through 'avatars', creating a kind of virtual materiality. This raises interesting questions for consumer researchers, not just about how consumption is enacted, produced and articulated within this environment, but also in relation to theoretical and methodological issues. More specifically, this thesis critically examines the development of interpretive consumer research and the emergence of the Consumer Culture Theory framework in the context of the juxtaposition of reality and hyperreality and takes a position which goes beyond the 'body in the net/physical body' binary. Therefore, this thesis places the 'avatar-as-consumer' at the centre of the research focus. The current thesis develops a theoretical framework which examines the role of consumption in resolving key paradoxes. Moreover, it extends the netnography framework from mainly text based research to the visual characteristics of virtual worlds so that it can be useful for the study of complex online environments and as a result, how the role of the researcher goes beyond netnography to virtualography is discussed.

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Clark, Lorie Jane. "Innocence Lost? The early sexualisation of tween girls in and by the media: An examination of fashion." Thesis, University of Canterbury. Political Science and Communication, 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/10092/1898.

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The relationship between the mass media and children is historically fraught, characterised by a concern for the potential effects on the leaders of the future. This thesis addresses the role of the media (particularly magazines) with regard to ideas of sexualisation, examining fashion clothing and identity in relation to tween girls aged between eight and 12-years-old. The impact of mass media is undeniable, and vital to a discussion of modern sexualisation of girls, as Huston, Wartella and Donnerstein maintain there are “strong theoretical reasons to believe that media play an especially important role in the socialisation of sexual knowledge, attitudes and behaviour” (1998: 12). Surveys were conducted with a total of 168 tween boys and girls, and focus groups with 28 girls in this age bracket in New Zealand, to explore the roles of fashion, media and sexualisation in the lives of young people growing up at a time of unprecedented consumerism and media exposure. The results found that parents still have great influence in the clothing choices of their tween, though they are shown to move progressively towards independence and autonomy as they approach adolescence. When looking at advertising images and fashion in magazines, these girls showed clear signs of age aspiration and an intense dislike for anything remotely ‘kiddy’. Whilst the examination of sexualisation had to be conducted on an implicit level, many girls commented explicitly about the degree of sexuality in some images, their dislike for such characterisations waning over time. As the goal of the mass media and advertising is to turn people into consumers, even commodities themselves, this research contributes to a growing discourse around the need for children to be protected and taught to engage critically with media texts to prevent sexualisation, commodification and exploitation from drowning out the tweens’ unique voice.

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Frick, Beatrice Liezel. "Verkennende studie van die menings van vroulike werknemers, van geselekteerde Suid-Afrikaanse maatskappye, jeens korporatiewe drag." Thesis, Stellenbosch : Stellenbosch University, 2000. http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/52048.

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Thesis (M Consumer Science)--Stellenbosch University, 2000.
ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Clothing is an important phenomenon within corporate and organisational culture and forms an integral part of the total corporate identity. It fulfills a symbolic purpose and serves as a reference. It is a way in which companies can change or modernise their image as it is conveyed to clients. Little research has been done on uniform types of clothing, even though it has been an important phenomenon in the subject area of Clothing for ages. South African companies offers unique opportunities for research within a multi-cultural environment and Consumer Science's distinctive multi-disciplinary approach makes it an ideal starting point for this type of study. Three environments are concerned with the phenomenon of corporate clothing, namely the employers and employees of organisations or companies, academia of educational establishments and the manufacturers of corporate clothing. The study concerned tried to investigate the phenomenon of corporate clothing within the South African corporate environment. This was firstly done by studying the available clothing literature and describing aspects which have direct or indirect relations to corporate clothing. Information and advice was obtained from experts to gain insight into the South African circumstances with relation to corporate clothing. Secondly, employees who wear corporate clothing were questioned as to their opinions on specific aspects with regards to corporate clothing. This was done by means of a questionnaire which was developed to determine if employees of selected South African companies see corporate clothing as representative of company image, culture and policy. The extent to which extent employees are involved in decision-making processes with regards to corporate clothing was also determined. Employees' opinions with regards to consumer requirements and the extent of satisfaction with corporate clothing was determined. The extent to which age and position within the company playa role in employees' opinions of corporate clothing were investigated according to the information obtained through the questionnaire. The above mentioned information was structured to give possible guidelines to companies with in the implimentation and development of corporate clothing within the existing organisational culture. This study did not focus on manufacturers of corporate clothing, but it is assumed that they can benefit from the findings of the study. The study will contribute to the building of theory in the subject area of Clothing and consequently also contribute to the academical field.
AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Korporatiewe kleredrag is 'n belangrike fenomeen binne die korporatiewe en organisatoriese kultuur en vorm 'n integrale deel van algehele korporatiewe identiteit. Dit vervul 'n simboliese rol en dien as 'n verwysingsmaatstaf. Dit is 'n manier waarop maatskappye hul beeld aan kliënte kan verander of moderniseer. Alhoewel uniforme drag reeds vir eeue 'n belangrike fenomeen in kleredrag is, is daar steeds min aandag in navorsing aan hierdie onderwerp geskenk. Suid- Afrikaanse maatskappye bied unieke geleenthede vir navorsing binne 'n multi-kulturele omgewing en Verbruikerswetenskap se eiesoortige multi-dissiplinêre benadering maak dit by uitstek geskik as vertrekpunt vir hierdie tipe studie. Drie omgewings het belang by die fenomeen van korporatiewe drag, naamlik die werkgewers en - nemers van organisasies of maatskappye, akademici van opvoedkundige instellings en die vervaardigers van korporatiewe drag. Die betrokke studie het gepoog om op 'n verkennende wyse ondersoek in te stel na die fenomeen van korporatiewe drag binne die Suid-Afrikaanse korporatiewe omgewing. Dit is gedoen deur eerstens beskikbare kledingliteratuur te bestudeer en sodoende aspekte te beskryf wat direk en indirek betrekking het op korporatiewe drag. Inligting en advies is vanaf kundiges ingewin om insig in dié verband in die Suid-Afrikaanse omstandighede te verkry. Tweedens is werknemers wat korporatiewe drag dra, se menings oor spesifieke aspekte met betrekking tot korporatiewe drag vasgestel. Vir hierdie doel is 'n vraelys ontwikkel om vas te stel of die werknemers van geselekteerde Suid-Afrikaanse maatskappye korporatiewe drag sien as verteenwoordigend van maatskappybeeld, -kultuur en -beleid. Daar is ook vasgestel in watter mate werknemers betrek word in besluitneming oor korporatiewe drag. Werknemers se menings oor verbruikersvereistes, die mate van tevredenheid met die korporatiewe drag is bepaal. Die mate waartoe ouderdom en posvlak 'n rol speel in werknemers se menings van korporatiewe drag is ook vasgestel met behulp van die inligting verkry uit die vraelyste. Bostaande inligting is gestruktureer om moontlike riglyne aan maatskappye te bied met betrekking tot die invoer of ontwikkeling van korporatiewe drag binne die bestaande organisatoriese kultuur. Daar is nie in hierdie studie gefokus op vervaardigers van korporatiewe drag nie, maar dit word aanvaar dat die groep wel sal kan baat vind by die bevindings. Die studie sal 'n bydrae lewer tot die opbou van teorie in die vakgebied van Kleding en gevolglik ook 'n bydrae tot die akademie lewer.

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Toerien, Elsje Susanna. "Dimensions of clothing interest: a cross-cultural study." Thesis, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, 1987. http://hdl.handle.net/10919/80058.

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The purpose of this research was to determine and compare the dimensions of clothing interest between Afrikaans female clothing and textile students at The University of Pretoria and female clothing and textile students at Virginia Tech. An additional objective was to test the validity of the measuring instrument by factor analysis. Dimensions of clothing interest for the two groups were measured with the Gurel-Creekmore Clothing Interest Questionnaire, as revised and shortened by Borsari in 1978. T-tests indicated that the group mean scores differed significantly for three of the five dimensions. The Virginia Tech sample had a higher score on the interest and the self-concept dimensions while the Pretoria sample had a higher mean score on the modesty dimension. The factor structure for the American group was very similar to that established by Borsari in 1978 but differences existed for the structure of the South African group.
Master of Science

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Roth, Amber Nicole. "What to Wear: Businesswomen's Choice of Professional Dress." Diss., Virginia Tech, 2009. http://hdl.handle.net/10919/77280.

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Previous research has shown that separately and in some combinations internal and external variables (e.g., fashion consciousness, the weather), in addition to the demographic variables of the individual (e.g., gender, age), can affect dress choice. The purpose of this study was to explore the relationships between the variables within the Choice of Professional Dress system and businesswomen's choice of professional dress along the classic–innovative fashion continuum (e.g., whether the professional dress is considered by the dress adopter as more classic or more innovative). A model was developed for this study to illustrate the relationships between multiple variables that are proposed to influence an individual's choice of professional dress. A survey questionnaire was created to investigate businesswomen's choice of professional dress along the classic–innovative fashion continuum in regards to variables within two of the internal subsystems, the demographic subsystem, and the two external subsystems of the Choice of Professional Dress system. Data was collected via an online survey managed by a marketing research company. Participants were predominately married, Caucasian, businesswomen between 30 and 40 years old who held primarily occupations such as office and administrative support or management and financial operations. Multiple regression analyses and ANOVA were employed to test the relationships between the Choice of Professional Dress variables and businesswomen's selection of professional dress for work, as proposed in five main hypotheses. Results of the multiple regression analysis and ANOVA indicated significant relationships between businesswomen's choice of professional dress along the classic–innovative fashion continuum and demographics (i.e., age, education), as well as internal variables (i.e., fashion consciousness, professional image/role, comfort, appearance labor, availability of professional dress) and external variables (i.e., company culture, company dress policies, profession). These results contribute to academia by providing a deeper and richer understanding of businesswomen's professional dress choice as well as the placement of these choices by businesswomen on the Fashion Continuum. Based on the findings, academic and practical suggestions as well as recommendations for future research were provided.
Ph. D.

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Shen, Dong. "Chinese consumers and US-made clothing : a cultural perspective /." online access from Digital dissertation consortium access full-text, 1999. http://libweb.cityu.edu.hk/cgi-bin/er/db/ddcdiss.pl?9941432.

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Kok, Chui-wah Ranee, and 郭翠華. "Qipao: living and evolving tangible and intangible cultural heritage." Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 2012. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B48345052.

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“Clothing always shows people’s personality.” said William Shakespeare. “Even we bow our heads with silence, our clothing and bearing will still reveal our past experiences.” As for a Chinese woman, Qipao reminds and even reveals her own background and roots. Qiapo is so widely recognized that people from different countries relate it to China once they see it. Such a Chinese female identity has been built for decades. Qipao has been seen as the National Costume throughout the 20th Century until nowadays. It expressed the patriotic purposes in the sense of Chinese and the rest of the world implicitly and explicitly. More importantly, it is an international symbol of Chinese femininity. The reason why Qipao can be preserved through history and time is that through the vicissitudes of the process of social and historical development, it has steadily given expression to the distinct character and individual style of the nation, making it distinctively different to the rest of the world. Qipao with its bewitching eastern charm, peerless style with its universal appeal established its unique place in the history of clothing in the world. It is an international symbol of Chinese femininity. In short, Qipao is a living heritage that has been evolving to adapt to the socio-historical circumstances of different times. This dissertation seeks to discover the process of this evolution through the tangibility and intangibility of Qipao.
published_or_final_version
Conservation
Master
Master of Science in Conservation

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Tuckett, Sally Jeanne Susan. "Weaving the nation : Scottish clothing and textile cultures in the Long Eighteenth Century." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 2011. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/9568.

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Clothing and textiles are an important means of communication, providing nuanced signals of economic and social status, occupation, and political affiliation. Consequently the study of clothing and textiles is a valuable approach to the investigation of a past society. Building on current methodological approaches associated with clothing and textile history and the study of material culture, this thesis will investigate how the clothing and textiles of the Scottish population in the long eighteenth century can be interpreted as symbols of wider cultural, social and economic practices. Studies of tartan and Highland dress have dominated the literature on historical Scottish dress and textiles, a result of these items’ intimate connection with modern Scottish identity. This thesis seeks to redress the balance by examining clothing and textiles in both the Highland and Lowland regions, in rural and urban areas, and in the experiences of the elite and non-elite sections of the population. This will be done using multiple and varied sources, including surviving artefacts, portraits, inventories, and contemporary literature. By incorporating quantifiable analysis and qualitative interpretation, this approach complements and adds to existing knowledge of Scottish clothing and textiles. The thesis begins with an examination of the clothing culture, looking at everyday clothing and its use in national, occupational, and political identities. Examination of the textile culture scrutinizes the use of textiles in literature, the economic and ideological approaches to the textile industry, and the practical motivations behind tartan manufacture. The role of ‘fashion’ in Scottish clothing and textile cultures is studied, looking at how outside fashions were received within Scotland, and how Scotland in turn influenced wider fashions. The thesis provides an overview of Scottish dress and textiles in the long eighteenth century demonstrating the importance such investigation can have on the comprehension of the wider social and economic practices of a nation.

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Tourula, M. (Marjo). "The childcare practice of children’s daytime sleeping outdoors in the context of Northern Finnish winter." Doctoral thesis, Oulun yliopisto, 2011. http://urn.fi/urn:isbn:9789514296673.

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Abstract The purpose of the study was to create a comprehensive view and add understanding about the childcare practice of children sleeping outdoors in the context of Northern Finnish winter. A general view of the topic was described, the thermal insulation of clothing of infants sleeping outdoors in northern winter climate was evaluated and the relationships among thermal environment, infants’ skin temperatures and daytime outdoor sleep duration were described. Mixed methods research design was used. A questionnaire was distributed to the parents (n=116) of children under 2 years of age in the city of Oulu. Skin temperatures of about three-month-old infants were recorded from seven skin sites throughout a daytime sleep outdoors (n=34) and indoors (n=33) in the families’ homes. The duration of the infant’s sleep was observed and air temperature and velocity of the outdoor environment were recorded. Clothing data of infants were collected and microclimate temperatures and humidity inside middle wear measured. The insulation of clothing ensembles was measured by using a baby-size thermal manikin. The required clothing insulation was estimated according to ISO 11079. Mothers (n=21) from Northern Finland were interviewed. A fit can be found between family – cultural outdoor sleeping childcare practice – and Northern Finnish winter environment, but also factors that decreased the fit existed. Winter environment was seen as an affordance for the child to sleep outdoors. Infants usually slept outdoors in the daytime once a day in different kinds of environments, the best temperature being -5 °C. Outdoor sleeping was a self-evident and common culturally bound custom. Guidelines and encouragement were given to mothers from different sources, and by sharing their own experiences, mothers participated in the cultural knowledge-building processes. The outdoor sleeping practice was commonly accepted collective behavior. Many risk factors also existed, but when all security perspectives were first taken into account it promoted family well-being by creating rhythm and strengthening the fluency of everyday life. The optimal thermal insulation was difficult to adjust systematically and both cooling and sweating existed. When ambient temperature decreased, the cooling rate of Tsk increased. Children slept longest outdoors when the cooling rate of Tsk was minimal. The basic idea was that outdoor sleeping promoted children’s health. A comprehensive view of the phenomenon was gathered into the evaluation model, which can be utilized in nursing practice. The findings give detailed information that is utilized when updating guidelines. This study also creates ground for international comparative studies
Tiivistelmä Tutkimuksen tavoitteena oli muodostaa kokonaiskuva ja lisätä ymmärrystä lasten ulkona nukuttamiskäytännöstä pohjoissuomalaisessa talvikontekstissa lasten ja perheiden hyvinvoinnin lisäämiseksi. Tarkoituksena oli kuvata lasten ulkona nukuttamiskäytäntöä, ympäristön ja ihon lämpötilojen sekä unen pituuden yhteyttä ja arvioida vaatetuksen lämmöneristävyyttä. Tutkimuksessa käytettiin mixed methods -lähestymistapaa monipuolisen kokonaiskuvan tavoittamiseksi. Pilottikysely tehtiin alle 2-vuotiaiden lasten vanhemmille (n=116) Oulun alueella. Ihon lämpötiloja mitattiin seitsemästä eri kehon osasta noin kolmen kuukauden ikäisiltä lapsilta (n=34) heidän nukkuessaan kotona päiväuniaan sisällä ja ulkona Pohjois-Suomessa talvella. Unen pituutta havainnoitiin ja ympäristön lämpötilaa ja tuulen nopeutta mitattiin. Lasten talvivaatetuksesta kerättiin tietoa ja lämpötiloja mitattiin vaatetuksen eri kerroksista sekä kosteutta välivaatetuksen alta. Vaatetuksen lämmöneristävyyksiä mitattiin lasten kokoa vastaavalla lämpönukella. Vaadittava lämmöneristävyys arvioitiin ISO 11079 – standardin mukaisesti. Pohjoissuomalaisia lapsiperheiden äitejä (n=21) haastateltiin kulttuurisen tiedon esille tuomiseksi. Yhteensopivuus perheen, kulttuurisen ulkona nukuttamiskäytännön ja pohjoisen talviympäristön välillä voidaan saavuttaa, mutta toisaalta myös tasapainoa vähentäviä tekijöitä löytyi. Talviympäristö nähtiin tarjoumana lapsen rauhalliselle nukkumiselle sen puhtaan ja raikkaan ilman ja luonnon sekä hiljaisuuden ja rauhallisuuden takia. Talvinen sää vaihteli auringon paisteesta kovaan lumipyryyn ja lämpötila muutamista lämpöasteista lähes kolmenkymmenen asteen pakkaseen lasten nukkuessa vaunuissaan. Paras lämpötila ulkona nukkumiselle oli -5 °C. Ulkona nukuttamista pidettiin itsestään selvänä kulttuurisena tapana. Äidit saivat ohjeita ja kannustusta lasten ulkona nukuttamiseen eri lähteistä. Vertailemalla ja jakamalla kokemuksiaan he osallistuivat myös itse kulttuurisen tiedon rakenteluun. Lasten ulkona nukuttaminen talvella osoittautui yleisesti hyväksytyksi kollektiiviseksi käyttäytymiseksi, joka toisinaan aiheutti paineita äideille. Lapsen ulkona nukkumiseen liittyi monia riskitekijöitä, mutta kaikki turvallisuusnäkökohdat ensin huomioon ottamalla se edisti perheen hyvinvointia luomalla säännöllistä rytmiä ja vahvistamalla arjen sujuvuutta. Optimaalisen vaatetuksen lämmöneristävyyden löytäminen systemaattisesti eri lämpötiloissa oli vaikeaa; sekä jäähtymistä että hikoilua esiintyi. Ympäristön lämpötilan laskiessa keskimääräisen ihon lämpötilan jäähtymisnopeus lisääntyi. Lapset nukkuivat ulkona pisimpään silloin, kun ihon lämpötilan jäähtyminen oli hitainta. Ensisijaisesti ulkona nukkumisen ajateltiin edistävän lapsen terveyttä. Lasten ulkona nukuttamisen arviointimallia voidaan hyödyntää käytännössä ohjauksen yhteydessä ja tutkimuksen tuottamaa yksityiskohtaista tietoa ohjeistusten päivittämisessä. Tutkimus antaa lähtökohtia kansainväliselle vertailevalle tutkimukselle

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Diggins, Kimberly A. "Shifting cultures of recycled style : a history of second-hand clothing markets in Montreal." Thesis, National Library of Canada = Bibliothèque nationale du Canada, 1998. http://www.collectionscanada.ca/obj/s4/f2/dsk1/tape10/PQDD_0001/MQ43853.pdf.

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Shercliff, Emma. "Articulating stitch : skilful hand-stitching as personal, social and cultural experience." Thesis, Royal College of Art, 2015. http://researchonline.rca.ac.uk/1693/.

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This practice-led PhD research explores the nature of embodied knowledge acquired and practised through the rhythms and patterns of hand-stitching processes, such as embroidery, plain sewing and patchwork quilting, undertaken by individuals alone and in dedicated groups as recreational craft, artistic expression and social life. The scale and pace of hand-stitching match those of the body, grounding cognitive and emotional experience in a tangible process. The hand-eye-mind coordination required cultivates a distinctive form of attention to the self, which has renewed importance in the context of the anti- haptic experiences of screen technologies that infiltrate our daily routines in the home and the workplace. Working with the premise that skilled hand-stitching concerns more than technical ability, I examine how these activities articulate dimensions of subjective experience. In turn, I explore ways in which the relationship between an individual and a group is constructed through their crafting skills. My previous experiences of textile crafting as a social activity drew me to this question, and my interest as a practitioner and teacher in the contemporary and future relevance of skilful work motivates me to better understand what it is that I, and many other stitch practitioners, do. With the tacit knowledge of a practitioner I know how to stitch, and from my investigations into the history and theory of textile art, craft and material culture I know about stitch. However, my view is that when absorbed in the process of making other more immediate and personal sensations take over. An exploration of haptic sensations relative to these processes underpins the investigation, and I focus instead on the dynamic relationship between practical skill, the body and its proximity to tools, materials and other people during actual experiences of making – the repeated gestures, coordinated hand movements and the skilled precision of tool use and fingertip manipulation – to provide a new context for the study of embodied knowledge known in and through hand-stitching. In order to explore this I have used a combination of ethnographic, auto-ethnographic and creative research methods including interviews, observation, video recording of a patchwork quilting group, participation in practical stitching sessions with a village embroidery group, undertaking workshops with students, and my own reflective stitching practice. It has emerged from the research that patterns of hand-stitching processes share characteristics with certain modes of social interaction sought by participants in order to experience sensations of participation, belonging or interdependence. Similarly to other oral traditions, an embodied knowledge of the practice includes patterns of interaction and particular attitudes and behaviours that are inseparable from the practical skills. However, people also stitch on their own; as a private, contemplative activity, hand-stitching allows a person to carve out time and space for introspective reflection. Whilst this could be thought of as a different kind of experience altogether, I suggest that mastery of these skills enables control over when and how to use them, which, I have found, allows a practitioner to adjust the type of experience sought: participation in a shared conversation or activity can be exchanged for isolated contemplation and a sense of self-reliance. I conclude that hand-stitching surpasses its technical or artistic attributes when considered as a material practice that offers particular metaphors for other processes of joining, collaboration, integrity – or even separation and isolation. Practising these skills is possibly the only way to acquire this embodied knowledge, which needs to be understood as a mode of interaction if it is not merely trivialised as quaint, as domestic labour or archived as ethnographic curiosity or as art object.

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Souza, Júnior Edilson Brasil de (RATTS Junior). "Diante dos olhos deles: reflexões sobre corpo e contemporaneidade." reponame:Repositório Institucional da UFC, 2010. http://www.repositorio.ufc.br/handle/riufc/698.

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SOUSA JÚNIOR, Edilson Brasil de (RATTS, Junior); CARVALHO, Francisco Gilmar Cavalcante. Diante dos olhos deles: reflexões sobre corpo e contemporaneidade. 2010. 170f. Dissertação (Mestrado) – Universidade Federal do Ceará, Programa de Pós-Graduação em Comunicação Social, Fortaleza-CE, 2010
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This work aims to analyze the body potential of the contemporary person in the daily struggle for the conquest of individuality and collective recognition. So, the research is based on the American reality show America's Next Top Model, aiming to understand better, from the experience between the candidates, how tactical and strategic relations are taken between them and the outside world, as well as the body reacts the expectations and consequences originated by these 'everyday encounters' with reality and the Other, turning it into a 'weapon' and in a sociocultural product. Based on this logic, the work aims to analyze how the representations of the female body are designed - imagery and discursively - in the reality show and how the representations when are suited to the exigencies global market of information and consumer goods, reflect social and cultural questions linked to the identity, gender and sexuality in the contemporaneity.
Este trabalho tem como objetivo analisar as potencialidades corporais do individuo contemporâneo em sua luta diária pela conquista da individualidade e do reconhecimento coletivo. Para tanto, a pesquisa toma como objeto o reality show estadunidense America’s Next Top Model a fim de tentar compreender melhor, a partir das experiências das candidatas do programa, como se estabelecem as relações táticas e estratégicas entre o sujeito e o mundo e de que forma as expectativas e conseqüências geradas por esses “embates cotidianos” com a realidade e com o Outro chegam ao corpo, transformando-o numa “arma” e num produto sociocultural. Partindo dessa lógica, o trabalho pretende analisar como são construídas – imagética e discursivamente - as representações do corpo feminino no reality e como essas representações, ao se adequarem às exigências do mercado global da informação e dos bens de consumo, refletem questões sociais e culturais ligadas à identidade, ao gênero e à sexualidade na contemporaneidade.

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Carlisle, Hilary. "Towards a new design strategy : a visual and cultural analysis of small-scale pattern on clothing." Thesis, Nottingham Trent University, 2002. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.247016.

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Strubel, Jessica L. "The decline of music subcultures the loss of style meanings and subcultural identity /." Columbus, Ohio : Ohio State University, 2007. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc%5Fnum=osu1173232632.

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Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Culture of clothing'

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