Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Flat knitting'

This work places itself in the field of textile design, knitting and three-dimensional objects. The primary motive is to investigate flat knitting as a technique to design form. The aim is to explore the possibilities within flat knitting in order to explore the relationship between knit and non-textile components to achieve three-dimensional forms for sitting. The design process consisted of experimental sketching on a flat knitting machine and small prototypes were produced. Rib, plain knit and mesh structures were tested in combination with partial knit, intarsia and plating. These bindings and techniques were combined with steel constructions to explore possibilities for shaping and function. By integrating a non-textile component as support in the knitted samples three-dimensional objects are created. The outcome of the study is a collection of knitted objects. Common for these is that they all suggest a function in relation to seating. The textile in the construction serves a function, an aesthetic expression and as the connection material in the construction. For further development, the possibility of creating textiles for furniture with capabilities for changes in expression and function can be explored.

During the last decade medical applications of textile sensors have been growing rapidly and textile sensors are the focal research point for many sensor projects. Textile sensors are still not available as a mainstream product to replace conventional electric sensors and electrodes. Textile sensors can be integrated in a textile garment to measure vital signs of a human being. In this regard stretch sensors are able to measure breathing rate of a person. In this project we use seamless knitting technique to make stretch sensors using conductive fibers. The resistance difference between stretching and relaxing of these sensors gives a pattern for human breathing. Four knitting structures with different conductive fibers are made and tested with cyclic tester to construct a graph between resistance and time to find the knitting structure which gives the best results. Tests are also done to check the results after washing. These sensors can be used in breathing monitoring of patients during daily life.<br>Program: Master Programme in Textile Technology

During the last decade medical applications of textile sensors have been growing rapidly and textile sensors are the focal research point for many sensor projects. Textile sensors are still not available as a mainstream product to replace conventional electric sensors and electrodes. Textile sensors can be integrated in a textile garment to measure vital signs of a human being. In this regard stretch sensors are able to measure breathing rate of a person. In this project we use seamless knitting technique to make stretch sensors using conductive fibers. The resistance difference between stretching and relaxing of these sensors gives a pattern for human breathing. Four knitting structures with different conductive fibers are made and tested with cyclic tester to construct a graph between resistance and time to find the knitting structure which gives the best results. Tests are also done to check the results after washing. These sensors can be used in breathing monitoring of patients during daily life.<br>Program: Master programme in Textile Technology

This project places itself in the field of textile design within flat knitting textiles intended as prototypes for interactive textiles with multifunctional purposes and aesthetics. The purpose of the project is to suggest alternative design solutions towards knitted textiles in the field of sportswear that not only acts as a second skin both in terms of appearance and functionality, as well as aesthetic details once the knit interacts with a moving body. The aim of the project, but also offers visual and contrasting functions such as expandability, rigidness and stretch, as well as creating aesthetic details caused by movement of the human body. The design process was conducted in experimental knitting on both industrial and domestic knitting machines, workshops entailing the relation between the knits and the body as well as technically developing the proper bindings to work in unity. Analysis of the knits were made which led to the solely use of these bindings: rib, spacer, links links, ripple and mesh. The outcome of the projects resulted in four knitted textile prototypes, where one of them is designed as a product in the shape of a top, and the others as knitted fabrics each representing two opposing functions. The conclusion drawn in retrospect of this project that by placing opposing bindings parallel, such ripple and links links, it is possible to achieve two opposing functions as well as different visual perception within the same area of a knitted piece.

Complete garment knitting technology is a method of producing knitted products, generally fashion garments, ready-made directly in the knitting machine without additional operations such as cutting and sewing. This makes it possible to manufacture a knitted fashion garment with fewer processes then with conventional production methods. In the fashion business customer demand is always changing due to fashion trends, so to be able to manufacture and deliver products rapidly is important. Mass customisation is a customer co-design process of products and services that tries to meets the needs of an individual customer’s demand for certain product features. In the fashion business this means that the customer can order a garment with a customised style, colour, size, and other personal preferences. The principal objective of this dissertation was to examine if and how complete garment technology can be applied to the customisation of knitted fashion products. It was pursued through several independent studies in knitting technology, mass customisation, and fashion logistics against a theoretical frame of reference in these areas. The papers in this thesis present various examples of how knitted fashion garments can be customised and integrated into fashion retailing concepts. The starting point of the research was the Knit-on-Demand research project conducted at the Swedish School of Textiles in collaboration with a knitting manufacturing and retailing company. The aim was to develop a shop concept built on the complete garment technology where a garment could be customised, produced, and delivered as quickly as possible. This initial idea failed due to the expense of investing in complete garment knitting technology, and so other avenues of research had to be found. The Knit-on-Demand project continued, using a business model similar to the complete garment concept but with the retail store and the production unit situated in different locations. The overall research question addressed in this thesis is: How can complete garment knitting technology be applied in a retail concept for customised garments? This question is then divided in two problems: What are the fashion logistics effects of combining complete garment technology and mass customisation? How does the co-design process function in the customisation of knitted fashion garments?The following is a qualitative study based on five research articles applying different research methodologies: case studies, simulations, and interviews. The empirical context is the area of mass customisation of fashion products and knitting technology, more specifically called complete garment knitting production technology. No prior studies describing mass customisation of complete garment knitting technology in combination with fashion logistics were found in the literature. The main contribution of this study is the demonstration that complete garment knitting technology can be applied in the customisation of fashion products. It also illustrates the importance of the co-design process between the company and the customer through which a knitted garment can be customised, produced, and delivered to the customer in three to five hours. The process of co-design and manufacture of a customised complete fashion product is examined, and the advantages and disadvantages associated with customisation of knitted garments are identified and described.

The primary aim of this practice based research was to develop, for the first time, a new combination of knitting methods which created knitted garments for larger size women that uniquely did not rely on stretch to fit their body shape. Through working with real women, an innovative capsule collection of custom-fitted knitwear toiles incorporating 3D knitted shape was produced which positively demonstrated the originality, effectiveness and significance ofthe outcomes. This research therefore focused on developing knitwear with an improved fit for the individual body shapes of a cohort of women over a UK size 16. In 2004, publicly available information from SizeUK indicated that the average women's size in the UK was a size 16. However following a literature search, and in conjunction with primary data from this research, it became evident that women over a size 16 were experiencing dissatisfaction with clothing fit. This disjunction formed an early driver for the research idea and helped to form the research framework that spanned three main areas: clothing fit, larger female body shape and mass knitwear manufacture. The research has been necessarily set in the wider context of debates on larger women's self-image and their relationship with fashion. Interviews and an online survey provided primary data on clothing fit, clothing choices, shopping experience, body image, body cathexis and self perception in relation to clothing. A case study research method was developed that resolved ethical issues which arose when working with participants. Prior to knit sampling, a hierarchy of desirable technical and aesthetic knit qualities was established, and a design process comparable to that in industry adopted in order to place this research in a 'real' commercial context. The knitwear was developed from manually acquired measurements and 3D body scanned data, using specific measurement protocols developed by the research for measuring larger size. Objective and subjective evaluation of the knitwear employing wrinkle-analysis, fit and comfort tests informed a final design development process that ran parallel to commercial examples. Amongst the final outcomes of this research is a library of visual digital templates derived from the knit programming, which offers a transferable new resource for future industrial developments of this process. Their particular and unique value is to contribute information to the emerging field of mass-customisation of knitwear and larger sized clothing as recommended for EU development by the SERVIVE report of 2010. This research concluded, as a significant contribution to new knowledge in the field of larger sized fashion knitwear, that improving the fit of knitwear for larger women by removing the fit-by-stretch factor (a major style and psychological drawback for these consumers), enhanced wearing experience and enthused the wearer towards the garment.

Innovative 3D spacer fabrics made from individual planes and connecting layers present great potential as complexly shaped textile preforms in lightweight composite applications. As one of the most flexible textile manufacturing methods, flat knitting enables the production of intricately shaped textile structures. The major advantages coupled with flat knitting techniques include the ability to produce multi-layer reinforcements, a diminishing waste, reducing production time and near-net shaping. This research includes the further development of flat knitting technology and the manufacturing processes of innovative, customized 3D spacer fabrics for high performance composite applications. Novel 3D spacer fabrics have been developed in different geometries using glass-polypropylene commingled hybrid yarns for complex shaped thermoplastic composite components. Reinforcement yarns have been integrated into spacer fabric structures with up to 4 reinforcement layers to improve mechanical performance. Furthermore, the successful addition of “sensor networks” created by integrating functional yarns into the 3D spacer fabrics could be used for structural health monitoring. Innovative integration concepts, which accommodate different positioning of the reinforcement yarns into the knit structures, can be used to adjust the mechanical properties of the finished knit composites. Moreover, the tensile properties have been accurately predicted based on the mathematical models formulated. The developed flat knitted 3D spacer fabrics are very promising for applications in lightweight composites, mechanical engineering, protective textiles, civil engineering and architectural designs<br>Innovative 3D-Spacer Fabrics bestehend aus individuellen Deckflächen und Verbindungsstegen bieten ein großes Potential als komplex geformte textile Halbzeuge für Leichtbauverbundwerkstoffanwendungen. Mit Hilfe des Flachstrickens, welches einer der flexibelsten textilen Herstellungsprozesse ist, lassen sich komplex geformte textile Strukturen herstellen. Belastungsgerechte Verstärkungen, Abfallreduzierung, endkonturnahe Fertigung sind nur einige der großen Vorteile der modernen Flachstricktechnik. Die Forschungsarbeit beinhaltet die Entwicklung der Flachstricktechnologie und des Herstellungsprozesses für innovative 3D-Spacer Fabrics für Hochleistungsverbundwerkstoffe. Neuartige 3D-Spacer Fabrics wurden in unterschiedlichen Geometrien entwickelt, in dem Glas-/ Polypropylen Commingling-Hybridgarn für komplex geformte thermoplastische Verbundwerkstoffkomponenten eingesetzt wird. Verstärkungsfäden wurden für hochmechanische Belastungen in die Spacer-Fabric-Strukturen in bis zu 4 Verstärkungschichten integriert. Die erfolgreiche Umsetzung und Entwicklung von Sensornetzwerken durch die Integration von funktionalen Fäden in die 3D-Spacer Fabrics kann für die strukturelle Zustandsüberwachung genutzt werden. Die innovativen Integrationskonzepte erlauben die differenzierte Orientierung von Verstärkungsfäden in den Gestrickstrukturen, wodurch eine starke Beeinflussung der mechanischen Eigenschaften der Gestrickverbundwerkstoffe herbeigeführt wird. Darüber hinaus wurden die Zugeigenschaften basierend auf den entwickelten mathematischen Modellen vorhergesagt. Die entwickelten flachgestrickten 3D-Spacer Fabrics sind sehr vielversprechend beispielweise für die Anwendung in Leichtbauverbundwerkstoffen, im Maschinenbau, in Schutztextilien, im Bauingenieurwesen und Architekturdesign

A prática da inovação contribui para o desenvolvimento econômico por oportunizar a criação de novos mercados e o aperfeiçoamento de mercados existentes, gerando benefícios para produtores e consumidores de produtos e serviços novos ou melhorados pela inovação. O setor têxtil engloba um conjunto de atividades que proporcionam o surgimento de indústrias dos diversos segmentos têxteis, desde a origem da matéria-prima, natural ou artificial, até o acabamento do produto final. Esta dissertação de mestrado objetivou identificar as inovações do setor de malharia retilínea ocorridas no período de 2008 a 2011 e, a partir da análise da literatura, identificar as mudanças no setor, desde a década de 80, no Brasil, até as inovações do setor industrial de malharia retilínea do município de Caxias do Sul, por meio das quatro dimensões da inovação, segundo o Manual de Oslo (2005): a inovação de produto, de processo, de marketing e organizacional. O método de pesquisa utilizada possui abordagem qualitativa e quantitativa, de natureza aplicada, com objetivos exploratório e descritivo. O procedimento técnico utilizado foi o estudo de caso múltiplo, sendo a fase qualitativa, de cunho exploratório e descritivo. Na fase quantitativa, foi utilizada uma survey, com um questionário estruturado como instrumento de coleta de dados, que foi aplicado aos gestores e/ou proprietários das indústrias de malhas retilíneas de Caxias do Sul, associadas no FITEMASUL de Caxias do Sul, totalizando uma população de 23 empresas. A análise dos dados aconteceu em duas etapas, na etapa qualitativa, foi utilizada a análise de conteúdo da entrevista e na etapa quantitativa, foi utilizada a análise quantitativa descritiva, através da correlação dos dados obtidos, para a identificação do nível de relação entre as variáveis do construto teórico. Os resultados da fase qualitativa identificaram que o setor de malharia retilínea de Caxias do Sul, investe em inovação, de acordo com as exigências do mercado e as tendências de moda. Os resultados quantitativos, cujo objetivo foi verificar relações entre variáveis da inovação e da indústria, identificaram correlações entre as variáveis. Nas correlações moderadas positivas (0,5 ≤ p < 0,8) houve correlação entre a variável: faturamento anual, com as variáveis: número de colaboradores e valor investido em inovação de marketing; a variável: número de colaboradores com a variável: valor investido em inovação de marketing; a variável: mão de obra qualificada com as variáveis: valor investido em inovação de produto e valor investido em inovação organizacional; a variável: valor investido em inovação de produto com a variável: valor investido em inovação de marketing; a variável: valor investido em inovação de produto com a variável: valor investido em inovação organizacional. Nas correlações fracas positivas (0,1 ≤ p < 0,5) houve correlação entre a variável: número de colaboradores com as variáveis: valor investido em inovação de produto, valor investido em inovação organizacional e a variável: mão de obra qualificada.<br>Submitted by Marcelo Teixeira (mvteixeira@ucs.br) on 2014-04-29T12:43:54Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Dissertacao Paula P. Ganzer.pdf: 6242690 bytes, checksum: c33e67f12812ee75b1c68ada52172f8e (MD5)<br>Made available in DSpace on 2014-04-29T12:43:54Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Dissertacao Paula P. Ganzer.pdf: 6242690 bytes, checksum: c33e67f12812ee75b1c68ada52172f8e (MD5)<br>The practice of innovation contributes to economic development by creating the opportunity to develop new markets and improve the existing markets, generating benefits for producers and consumers of products and services news or improved by innovation. The textile sector encompasses a set of activities that provide the appearance of various segments of textile industries, since the origin of raw material, natural or artificial, to the finish of the final product. This dissertation aimed to investigate the innovations of the flat knitting sector occurred on the period 2008 to 2011, and through the literature review identify the changes in the industry since the 80’s, in Brazil, to the innovations of the industrial flat knitting of Caxias do Sul, by the four dimensions of innovation, according to the Oslo Manual (2005): product innovation, process innovation, marketing innovation and organizational innovation. The research method used has qualitative and quantitative approach, using the applied nature, exploratory and descriptive purposes. The technique proceeding used was the multiple case study, and the qualitative phase used exploratory and descriptive methods. In the quantitative phase, it was used a survey with a structured questionnaire as an instrument for data collection, which was applied to managers and/or owners of industries of rectilinear mesh of Caxias do Sul, associated to FITEMASUL of Caxias do Sul, with a total population of 23 companies. The data analysis took place in two stages, in the qualitative phase, we used the content analysis of the interview and the quantitative stage, it was used descriptive quantitative analysis, through the correlation of the data, in order to identify the level of relationship between variables of the theoretical construct. The results of the qualitative phase identified that the flat knitting sector of Caxias do Sul invests in innovation, according to the market demands and fashion trends. The quantitative results, aimed to verify relationships between variables of innovation and industry identified correlations between the variables of innovation. In moderate positive correlations (0,5 ≤ p < 0,8) it was identified a correlation between the variable: annual revenues, with the variables: number of employees and amount invested in marketing innovation, the variable: number of employees with variable: amount invested in marketing innovation, the variable: skilled labor with the variables: amount invested in product innovation and value invested in organizational innovation, the variable: amount invested in product innovation with the variable: value invested in marketing innovation, the variable: amount invested in product innovation with the variable: amount invested in organizational innovation. In the weak positive correlations (0,1 ≤ p < 0,5) it was identified correlation between the variable: number of employees with variables: amount invested in product innovation, value invested in organizational innovation and the variable: skilled labor.

A pesquisa ressalta a importância da reflexão na prática aplicada sustentada no processo científico para construção do conhecimento da área têxtil de malharia retilínea. A abordagem de intervenção utilizada permite heurísticas projetuais que proporcionam análises reflexivas sobre a percepção imaginativa e física dos objetos orientados deste estudo, com base em variáveis como: a seleção de materiais e a simulação virtual. Os objetos orientados são avaliados como ferramentas de mediação dos processos de concepção de produtos têxteis centrados ao usuário, ao processo e ao produto. Verifica-se a importância de construir um instrumento de análise, amparado no conceito de design de interação, através de uma relação contínua de pesquisa-ação onde as construções cognitivas, culturais e sociais são apontadas como fator determinante para o fluxo comunicacional no processo. Sendo utilizados processos integrados de simulação virtual através do sistema CAD SDS ONE FULL RD Shima Seiki. Para tanto, a pesquisa compreende estudos de caso envolvendo empresas do setor com configurações organizacionais e projetuais diferentes, os quais apresentaram resultados significativos da aplicação do design interativo no contexto projetual têxtil. A Diana Têxtil SA. consiste em uma empresa de grande porte, sediada em Timbó, Santa Catarina. Neste estudo de caso é descrito um projeto piloto que proporcionou a concepção da primeira coleção virtual de malharia retilínea realizada no Brasil. E, apresenta através da análise do seu contexto o fluxo complexo de interações culturais e conexões dos agentes e tecnologias, que configuraram a realização desse evento. A Arco Baleno Ltda. é uma empresa de pequeno porte sediada em Flores da Cunha, Rio Grande do Sul. Este estudo apresenta um processo de design interativo guiado pelo estilista como agente de inovação. O projeto é realizado através de parcerias entre a empresa fornecedora de tecnologia e a micro empresa analisada que também conta com subsídios financeiros do Sebrae para realização de seus projetos de design. Através desse estudo foi realizada uma pesquisa afetiva com usuário final crianças de 5 a 12 anos, para avaliar a aceitação de texturas específicas e da personagem da marca. A Marisol SA. é uma empresa de grande porte sediada em Jaraguá, Santa Catarina. Este estudo apresenta uma análise sobre a implementação de processos inovadores apresentados em um workshop realizado na empresa. Compreende a avaliação de seus profissionais especialistas quanto à importância da seleção de materiais e a simulação virtual para concepção de novos produtos. A Best Malhas Ltda. é uma empresa de médio porte sediada em Caxias do Sul. Este estudo apresenta descrições de novas concepções estratégicas do posicionamento do designer dentro do contexto de serviço e apresenta tarefas distintas atribuídas a esse profissional. Uma visão holística do processo de design é analisada para subsidiar a compreensão do design do processo de design. O quinto estudo de caso é amparado em uma plataforma global de relacionamentos profissionais o LinkedIn. Esse estudo de caso de profissionais especialistas descreve a criação de uma rede social com expertises específicas, os designers de malharia retilínea, através da plataforma do LinkedIn. Foi realizada uma survey, através de questionários para coleta de dados específicos que permitiram a análises sobre as características do perfil desses profissionais da área, bem como a sua pré-disposição as variáveis desta pesquisa. Através dessa rede social potencializada pelas tecnologias, foram coletadas informações dos especialistas ―estilistas de malharia retilínea‖. Tal processo valoriza a integração de expertises, da sintonia dos pares e proporciona através da dinâmica democrática e virtuosa o ―feedback ―para este objeto de estudo. Esta dissertação possui relevância econômica, social, científica e tecnológica, pois, aponta lacunas na área têxtil de malharia retilínea. Apresenta coerência em uma abordagem de adequação – sócio técnica, no qual é atribuído ao estilista o papel de um agente estratégico de inovação, através da possibilidade descrita que esse profissional possui ao integrar processos avançados para comunicação de seus projetos.<br>The research point the importance of reflection in applied practice sustained in the scientific process to build the knowledge of the textile flat knitting´s textile area. The used intervention approach allows projectual heuristics that provide reflexive analysis about imaginative and physical perception of the oriented objects of this study, based on variables such as material selection and virtual simulation. The oriented objects are evaluated like mediation tools of conception processes of textile products centered on the user, on the process, and on the product. It is verified the importance of building an analysis tool, supported on the concept of interaction design, through an ongoing relationship of research-action where the cognitive, cultural and social constructions are cited as a determinant factor to communication flow in the process. Integrated processes of virtual simulation are used through the CAD system SDS ONE FULL RD Shima Seiki. Therefore, the research includes case studies involving companies of the sector with different organizational and projectual configurations, which presented significant results from the application of interactive design within the textile projectual context. Diana Textil SA. consists in a large-sized company, localized in Timbo, Santa Catarina. This case study describes a pilot project that provided the conception of the flat knitting's first virtual collection developed in Brazil. And it presents, through the analysis of its context, the complex flow of cultural interactions and connections of agents and technologies that shaped the realization of this event. Arco Baleno Ltda. is a small-sized company localized in Flores da Cunha, Rio Grande do Sul. This study presents an interactive design process conducted by the designer as the agent of innovation. The project is realized through partnerships between the company that is provider of technology and the analyzed small company, which also has the Sebrae's financial subsidies to perform their design projects. Through this study it was realized an affective research with the end user, children between 5 and 12 years old, to evaluate the acceptance of specific textures and character of the mark. Marisol SA. is a large-sized company localized in Jaraguá do Sul, Santa Catarina. This study presents an analysis about implementation of innovative processes presented in a workshop realized at the company. It includes the evaluation of their professionals about the importance of material selection and virtual simulation for conception of new products. Best Malhas Ltda. is a medium-sized company localized in Caxias do Sul, Rio Grande do Sul. This study presents descriptions of new strategic conceptions of designer positioning within the service context and presents different tasks assigned to this professional. A holistic view of the design process is analyzed to subsidize the comprehension of the design process' design. The fifth case study is supported on a global platform of professional relationships, LinkedIn. This professional's case study describes the expertise to creation of a social network with specific expertise, the flat knitting designers, through LinkedIn platform. A survey was conducted using questionnaires to collect specific data that allowed the analysis about the profile characteristics of these area professionals, as well as their pre-disposing to the variables of this research. Through this social network augmented by technology, informations was gathered from the experts "flat knitting designers". This process enhances the expertises integration, the tune of pairs and offers the ―feedback‖ for this study object through the virtuous and democratic dynamics. This dissertation has economic, social, scientific and technological importance because it indicates gaps on flat knitting textile area. It shows the consistency in an approach of social- technical adequacy, which is attributed to the designer the potential of a strategic innovation agent, through the described possibility that this professional has to integrate advanced processes for communication of their projects.

Human body temperature is an important indicator of physical performance and condition in terms of comfort, heat or cold stress. The aim of this research was to develop Temperature Sensing Fabric (TSF) for continuous temperature measurement in healthcare applications. The study covers the development and manufacture of TSF by embedding fine metallic wire into the structure of textile material using a commercial computerised knitting machine. The operational principle of TSF is based on the inherent propensity of a metal wire to respond to changes in temperature with variation in its electrical resistance. Over 60 TSF samples were developed with combinations of different sensing elements, two inlay densities and highly textured polyester yarn as the base material. TSF samples were created using either bare or insulated wires with a range of diameters from 50 to 150 μm and metal wires of nickel, copper, tungsten, and nickel coated copper. In order to investigate the Temperature-Resistance (T-R) relationship of TSF samples for calibration purposes, a customised test rig was developed and monitoring software was created in the LabVIEW environment, to record the temperature and resistance signals simultaneously. TSF samples were tested in various thermal environments, under laboratory conditions and in practical wear trials, to analyse the relationship between the temperature and resistance of the sensing fabric and to develop base line specifications such as sensitivity, resistance ratio, precision, nominal resistance, and response time; the influence of external parameters such as humidity and strain were also monitored. The regression uncertainty was found to be less than in ±0.1°C; the repeatability uncertainty was found to be less than ±0.5°C; the manufacturing uncertainty in terms of nominal resistance was found to be ± 2% from its mean. The experimental T-R relationship of TSF was validated by modelling in the thermo-electrical domain in both steady and transient states. A maximum error of 0.2°C was found between the experimental and modelled T-R relationships. TSF samples made with bare wire sensing elements showed slight variations in their resistance during strain tests, however, samples made with insulated sensing elements did not demonstrate any detectable strain-dependent-resistance error. The overall thermal response of TSF was found to be affected by basal fabric thickness and mass; the effect of RH was not found to be significant. TSF samples with higher-resistance sensing elements performed better than lower-resistance types. Furthermore, TSF samples made using insulated wire were more straightforward to manufacture because of their increased tensile strength and exhibited better sensing performance than samples made with bare wire. In all the human body wear trials, under steady-state and dynamic conditions both sensors followed the same trends and exhibited similar movement artifacts. When layers of clothing were worn over the sensors, the difference between the response of the TSF and a high-precision reference temperature were reduced by the improved isothermal conditions near the measurement site.

碩士<br>國立臺灣科技大學<br>材料科學與工程系<br>104<br>When the computerized flat knitting machine for the production of knitting fabric, the property of knitting fabric are determined by the loop length. During the production, the loop length may have some difference because of the abrasion of stitch cam and needle and the variation of yarn. According to this, the study design a loop length compensation system which base on the commercial product and patent. This system use photo-interrupter, roller and microcontroller to measure the loop length and calculate the value of compensation. In the study, we measure the yarn length to test the accuracy and then choose plain stitch and full knit stitch to measure the loop length and calculate the value of compensation. Both of them are knitting in four kinds of stitch value. According to the result, the loop length measuring device can measure the loop length precisely and get the value of compensation in different knitting condition.

碩士<br>南台科技大學<br>電子工程系<br>92<br>In the paper, the control system of a computerized flat knitting machine is designed and implemented largely. A permanent magnet synchronous motor is used to operate the machine. We design the motor drive that discrete power MOSFETs are adapted in the inverter to reduce the cost. In order to get zero steady-state error, the PI control is considered in the velocity control loop. Microcontroller, 8052, programs the drives of seven step motors to manipulate the controls of cam, left stitch, and right stitch of front-end and back-end, and racking. The color and style of the accessories of clothing is programmed by using a keyboard, PC, or an external memory card. There are three communication protocols, RS232, RS422, and RS485, used in the system to transfer the instructions and data. Chapter 4 is used to apply the technology of the product development process to expect finishing the duty in each task and then accomplishing the product design and implementation in considerable time. Gantt chart used in this chapter is a project planning tool that can be used to represent the timing of tasks required to complete a project. Hope these kinds of research can be finished in shorter time to reduce the time wasting. Because of the technological change with each passing day, innovative machines are designed and implemented in a very short time. That’s the reason why value engineering will be applied as part of my gradation thesis. Value Engineering is an effective methodology for reducing costs, increasing productivity, fostering innovation, eliminating unnecessary design element, ensuring cost-effective project, and improving quality with required performance, reliability, quality and safety in a product, facility, design, system, service or process. Deeply hope this could supply a new thought to innovate new products.

碩士<br>國立臺北科技大學<br>製造科技研究所<br>102<br>This research aims to integrate the design of Central Yard Feed Mechanisms with Flat Knitting Machine, which uses a power input mechanism, where the clutch plays an important role. The machine weaves by using the clutch to control how yarn enters the machine and by working with yarn guide bars and yarn guides. Compared with the previous designs, the central yard feeding mechanisms for flat knitting machine is devised to increase the competitive advantage in the market through the same weaving action and simpler structure of the machine. In this research, two ideas, both controlled by the clutch, are designed based on different methods of controlling how yarn goes into the machine. The first method uses pawls and ratchets as the major structure of the clutch, and the second method uses the yarn guides and the clutch to control the contact between the block and the clutch. A wide range of patents and references were collected and analyzed to find out the strengths and weaknesses of each design. The function of the current size central yard feed mechanisms for flat knitting machine is improved trough two new and innovative methods. The above two methods were verified through motion simulation and the interference check by CAD software.

碩士<br>輔仁大學<br>織品服裝學系<br>93<br>Profit is the ultimate goal of running business. To break through is for leveraging brand new technologies to create new opportunities. Hence, it is crucial for a company to sustain its competitiveness or even leapfrog ahead of others in the industry via innovation during drastically and strongly competitive global market. It is so-called “knows oneself and the other side is even-victorious”. Without innovation, a company will be unable to keep up with competitors and destine for elimination. It is therefore, organizational growth and development does rely on continuous product improvement and innovation by acquiring new technologies, product license or patents. Then companies can achieve greater efficiency, lower cost and / or reach higher profit. At the same time, it is imperative for business to value its customers. They have to consider their customer requirement, thinking, focus to achieve customer high satisfaction and analyze market trends for strategic marketing in their product and / or service. With this, business not only can become more competitive in their respective market, but also foster a better understanding of their competitors and also achieve market success. Forasmuch, it is over sixty machinery manufactures in Taiwan. Besides flat knitting machinery makers, there are circular knitting machine, wrap knitting machine, ribbon (crochet) machine, sock and stocking machine and underwear machine makers etc which it is debatably one of the worlds leading, producers of knitting machine. But it is really pity that Taiwanese manufactures have not yet to become leaders in the global knitting machine market. This study explores the technology trend and market of flat knitting machine thru the analysis of two leading manufacturers, Stoll (Germany) and Shima Seiki (Japan). These two companies have established strong global patents based from Jan 1st, 1969 to Dec 31, 2003 in 34 years. To examine the success, survival technique and forecast the differential of strategic development of these two industry leaders, we utilize quantitative and qualitative analysis of patents as tool in four biggest market segments, America, Japan, Europe and China. In order to enable Taiwanese knitting machinery manufactures to increase competitive ability and become the pinnacle of international standard, emphasis especially on innovation, technology development and competitive power are indispensable.

碩士<br>輔仁大學<br>織品服裝學系碩士在職專班<br>106<br>The composite fiber is the staple for the flat knitting of footwear upper. The main effect is that the hot melt flow bonding property of the composite fiber can set the size of the upper and strengthen the upper structure. In this study, we used nylon draw textured yarn as the original fabric, and combined it with three kinds of composite fibers (Fusible Nylon Yarn, Thermoplastic Polyurethane Yarn and Crimped Nylon Yarn) by each other to knit footwear upper. The upper with three kinds of knitting basic stitches (Jacquard stitch, Mesh stitch and Ottoman stitch) based on the function of different parts of sports footwear, there were ten textiles were studied in the thesis. Finally, comparison of the basic specifications, and of the appearance before and after the heat setting. Then, according the Methods of Teat for Knitting Fabrics: tensile strength test, elongation test, universal abrasion test and puncture resistance test. Compare the difference between the strength of the upper fabrics into different composite fibers, and detailed record as the basis for the process set. The results are summarized as follows: 一、The TPU filament due to the characteristics of hot melt flow bonding, in the fabric between the needle loop to bond each other of the wale and course. The upper fabric in the elongation of breaking is better, and the other in the ottoman stitch of the elongation recovery rate is also the best. TPU filament can increase the ductility of the fabric, it is useful in ripple stitch; the other way may also be applied to the surface can press the embossed effect (such as the footwear of side or heel). 二、The fusible nylon yarn also due to the characteristics of hot melt flow bonding, in the fabric between the needle loop interlacing point and non-interlacing point to bond each other. Although the upper fabric breaking strength of jacquard stitch and ottoman stitch under the obvious downward trend, but in the case of more interlacing point of mesh stitch, the puncture resistance test has a substantial increase in the trend. By the fusible nylon yarn can increase the plastic strength of the fabric with mesh stitch, the other it manifests the best of the universal abrasion test, it also can increase the abrasion strength of the upper different part (such as the footwear of toe head). 三、The crimp nylon yarn effect a special spring helix shrinkage by steam, resulting in a more pronounced shrinkage of the fabric in the course, and it manifests the best of the breaking strength, elongation test and puncture resistance of upper fabric with jacquard stitch and ottoman stitch. By the crimp nylon yarn can increase the tie strength of footwear topline with rib stitch, it also can be used as the important composite materials in wearing comfort of sports footwear.

碩士<br>實踐大學<br>時尚與媒體設計研究所碩士在職專班<br>96<br>Because of the progress and maturity in digitally-controlled technology, the technology of computer-aided flat knitting machines can make use of CAD’s（Computer-Aided Design）powerful operation ability and the ability for visualizing textile structure of to shorten the time of developing products. CAD has made a connection with creation. Especially in textile structure design, CAD has led to outstanding benefits, and the development of CAD has become perfect. On the other hand, in the circumstance with drastic competition of markets and short life cycle of manufactures, it is more important for textile industry which pays much attention to develop new products to exploit textile modeling and textile structure design. However, textile structure design needs designers’ long term of experiences and cannot be comprehended in short time. Generally speaking, computer flat knitting textile designers used to do their new-product designing works by referring to their former subjective experiences in textile structure design. Therefore, in order to help designers effectively and objectively do their designing works, this dissertation systematically presents the characteristics of textile structure and the methods of modeling design, and builds a set of connecting model including Textile Modeling, Fully Fashion, and Seamless. Experiments about the physical characteristic of textile and the analyses of textile structure are proposed in this dissertation. By these interfaces, the proposed methods can provide the information about the tests of textile modeling and function, build up the database of textile, and help the designers develop beautiful, functional, medical, and industrial textile. The designers can obtain the embodied suggestions of textile modeling design by providing the required design parameters. Furthermore, by obtaining the required design parameters, the producers can input complete data to computer-aided flat knitting machines and rapidly transfer the data into products. The required design parameters can not only shorten the time of textile design but also increase the communication between designers and producers.

碩士<br>輔仁大學<br>織品服裝學系碩士班<br>105<br>The study is to explore the effect of yarn feeding angle and tension on the plated coverage (mis-plated) which using the same yarn count (both ground yarn and fact yarn) in the V-bed flat knitting machine. On the other hand, we use the DigiEye imaging system to evaluate the plated coverage (mis-plating). The result is that when the feeding angle of ground yarn is greater than face yarn and the feeding tension of ground yarn is also greater than face yarn, we could efficiency to solve the mis-plated issue. The conclusion is properly control the feeding tension could be a main way to solve mis-plated.

Innovative 3D spacer fabrics made from individual planes and connecting layers present great potential as complexly shaped textile preforms in lightweight composite applications. As one of the most flexible textile manufacturing methods, flat knitting enables the production of intricately shaped textile structures. The major advantages coupled with flat knitting techniques include the ability to produce multi-layer reinforcements, a diminishing waste, reducing production time and near-net shaping. This research includes the further development of flat knitting technology and the manufacturing processes of innovative, customized 3D spacer fabrics for high performance composite applications. Novel 3D spacer fabrics have been developed in different geometries using glass-polypropylene commingled hybrid yarns for complex shaped thermoplastic composite components. Reinforcement yarns have been integrated into spacer fabric structures with up to 4 reinforcement layers to improve mechanical performance. Furthermore, the successful addition of “sensor networks” created by integrating functional yarns into the 3D spacer fabrics could be used for structural health monitoring. Innovative integration concepts, which accommodate different positioning of the reinforcement yarns into the knit structures, can be used to adjust the mechanical properties of the finished knit composites. Moreover, the tensile properties have been accurately predicted based on the mathematical models formulated. The developed flat knitted 3D spacer fabrics are very promising for applications in lightweight composites, mechanical engineering, protective textiles, civil engineering and architectural designs.<br>Innovative 3D-Spacer Fabrics bestehend aus individuellen Deckflächen und Verbindungsstegen bieten ein großes Potential als komplex geformte textile Halbzeuge für Leichtbauverbundwerkstoffanwendungen. Mit Hilfe des Flachstrickens, welches einer der flexibelsten textilen Herstellungsprozesse ist, lassen sich komplex geformte textile Strukturen herstellen. Belastungsgerechte Verstärkungen, Abfallreduzierung, endkonturnahe Fertigung sind nur einige der großen Vorteile der modernen Flachstricktechnik. Die Forschungsarbeit beinhaltet die Entwicklung der Flachstricktechnologie und des Herstellungsprozesses für innovative 3D-Spacer Fabrics für Hochleistungsverbundwerkstoffe. Neuartige 3D-Spacer Fabrics wurden in unterschiedlichen Geometrien entwickelt, in dem Glas-/ Polypropylen Commingling-Hybridgarn für komplex geformte thermoplastische Verbundwerkstoffkomponenten eingesetzt wird. Verstärkungsfäden wurden für hochmechanische Belastungen in die Spacer-Fabric-Strukturen in bis zu 4 Verstärkungschichten integriert. Die erfolgreiche Umsetzung und Entwicklung von Sensornetzwerken durch die Integration von funktionalen Fäden in die 3D-Spacer Fabrics kann für die strukturelle Zustandsüberwachung genutzt werden. Die innovativen Integrationskonzepte erlauben die differenzierte Orientierung von Verstärkungsfäden in den Gestrickstrukturen, wodurch eine starke Beeinflussung der mechanischen Eigenschaften der Gestrickverbundwerkstoffe herbeigeführt wird. Darüber hinaus wurden die Zugeigenschaften basierend auf den entwickelten mathematischen Modellen vorhergesagt. Die entwickelten flachgestrickten 3D-Spacer Fabrics sind sehr vielversprechend beispielweise für die Anwendung in Leichtbauverbundwerkstoffen, im Maschinenbau, in Schutztextilien, im Bauingenieurwesen und Architekturdesign.

碩士<br>輔仁大學<br>織品服裝學系碩士班<br>106<br>With the increase of people's clothing comfort requirements, the development of moisture-transferring and quick-drying fabrics have become the focus of researchers. In this study, a 4T profiled fiber with special grooves is used as a research material. In addition, this paper also discusses natural materials-flax fiber. We blending 4T profiled fiber and flax fiber to yarns as the following proportion: 90/10, 80/20, 70/30. After yarns, this study uses circular knitting machine produces plain fabric, quadrangle pique fabric, plain plating fabric, double jacquard fabric. We will use Moisture Management Tester (MMT) measure fabric moisture transferring and management. According to results: 1. Comparing 100% 4T Profiled Fiber with 4T Profiled Fiber /flax on the plain fabric and quadrangle, it was found that 4T Profiled Fiber /flax could effectively improve their moisture transferring.2. In the 4T Profiled Fiber knitting structure, increasing the polyester fiber of the bottom layer to the plain plating fabric structure, effectively enhancing its moisture transferring. 3. Double jacquard fabric structure with 4T Profiled Fiber has a wicking point to effectively enhance moisture transferring ability, and with the increase of the flax fiber proportion added, the moisture transferring also become more effective.