Academic literature on the topic 'Garment cutting'

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Journal articles on the topic "Garment cutting"

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Zuo, Hua Li, and Yan Chen. "Study on Operation Factors and Standard Time of Clothing Cutting Process." Advanced Materials Research 796 (September 2013): 286–89. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.796.286.

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With increasing competition in garment industry, many companies have to improve their efficiency of production and reduce the cost through management, which have become one of the important issues of garment production research. In this paper, the process of garment cutting was divided into several key factors. Combined with the real situation of garment cutting in manufactory, the related influence factors of every factor were also discussed. Based on the study of the process of cutting, the operation processes of garment cutting were investigated and the time consumption of every process was measured. The parameters used for time consumption were proposed. It can be expected that the results of this research can be used to provide reference on the determination of standard time of cutting processes. The results of this research are also great instructive importance for the enterprises to improve the efficiency of garment cutting and the standardization of operation time in order to make a scientific and reasonable working schedule for decreasing production cost and increasing economic benefits.
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Ye, Jing, and Zhi Ge Chen. "An Optimized Algorithm of Numerical Cutting-Path Control in Garment Manufacturing." Advanced Materials Research 796 (September 2013): 454–57. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.796.454.

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The garment cutting is a key process during the garment production. Most companies apply the manual labor or simple mechanical aids to achieve the goals. While these methods cost much time and labor. More and more automatic cutting equipment is applied to the garment cutting so as to save time, labor and materials. During the process of cutting, some problems are coming up, especially the cutting path. The cutting path of the garment numerical control cutter is regarded as generalized travelling salesman problem (GTSP). The garment contours can be regarded as the set of cities, and the nodes of a single contour can be regarded as cities. The cutter visits every contour exactly once. A hybrid intelligence algorithm was proposed to solve the problem. The ant colony algorithm was applied to a selected cutting path arbitrarily, an optimal contour sequence was found. Then the garment contour sequences shortest path was transformed into multi-segment graph shortest problem which is solved with the dynamic programming algorithm in order to optimize the knifes in-out point. The final optimal cutting path was constructed with ant colony optimization algorithm and dynamic programming algorithm. The practical application shows that the hybrid intelligence algorithm has satisfactory solution quality.
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Wang, Xiao Yun, and Zhen Zhen Huang. "Development of Cutting Optimization System for Garment." Advanced Materials Research 490-495 (March 2012): 262–66. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.490-495.262.

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Garment cutting process is an important part of production ,directly related to the enterprise cost management and production efficiency. So, combined with the actual production need, the research for garment cutting process planning begins from task list to cutting plan, at last distributes the cutting task. It aims at improving the garment cutting process efficiency and reducing the production of the costs and optimize management. The source of the research is the Shijiazhuang Municipal Bureau of Science and Technology project. The subject number is 09113031A.
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Wang, Tanqiu. "Intelligent Analysis of Computer-Aided Garment Design CAD Based on Virtual Reality Model for Surplus Fabric Removal and Reuse without Segmentation of Cutting Pieces." Advances in Multimedia 2022 (January 13, 2022): 1–13. http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2022/7974639.

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For the purpose of improving the efficiency of garment design, the computer-aided garment design virtual reality (VR) model for surplus fabric removal and reuse without segmentation of cutting pieces is analyzed in this paper to provide the architecture of the computer-aided garment design CAD system. The form of dividing the garment into multiple types of nonsegmented pieces is adopted so that each nonsegmented piece stands for a complete design element unit. Based on this structure, the computer analysis of garment design based on CAD can be connected at a deeper level, which will not only improve the design efficiency of new garments but also reduce the design time at the client terminal and enhance the quality of the design. Through the experimental operation of prototypes, it is verified that the intelligent system proposed in this paper can implement the design of prototypes quickly and effectively.
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Taifa, Ismail WR, Ibrahim Twaha, and Mboka A. Mwakibambo. "Critical Analysis of Material Consumption and Cost Reduction Techniques for the Apparel Cutting Processes." Tanzania Journal of Science 47, no. 5 (December 1, 2021): 1689–700. http://dx.doi.org/10.4314/tjs.v47i5.17.

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Revenues generation in the garment industry is synonymous with material consumption. This study thus analysed material consumption and cost reduction techniques in the Tanzanian garment industry. The research employed quantitative (experimentation) and qualitative approaches (document review and observation technique) in the apparel cutting processes. Experimental results of material consumption from ten tests averaged efficiency of 78.67%, the wasted pieces (19.2%), and unnoticed waste (2.03%). Essential considerations to reduce material waste include: digitalising the fabric cutting processes; providing workers training; deploying appropriate practices in the cutting room (e.g. pattern engineering and pattern accuracy); considering the quality of the procured fabric and fabric efficiencies relative to different human body shapes and proportions; and considering the separation process rather than extending facings, splitting substantial components, slight reductions in a flare, and seam displacements. The study implies that apparel enterprises can benchmark their actual material consumption circa 50-70% of their total garment manufacturing costs. Keywords: Material waste, Garment industry, Fabric losses, Cost reduction techniques, Small and medium-sized enterprises.
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Pietroni, Nico, Corentin Dumery, Raphael Falque, Mark Liu, Teresa Vidal-Calleja, and Olga Sorkine-Hornung. "Computational pattern making from 3D garment models." ACM Transactions on Graphics 41, no. 4 (July 2022): 1–14. http://dx.doi.org/10.1145/3528223.3530145.

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We propose a method for computing a sewing pattern of a given 3D garment model. Our algorithm segments an input 3D garment shape into patches and computes their 2D parameterization, resulting in pattern pieces that can be cut out of fabric and sewn together to manufacture the garment. Unlike the general state-of-the-art approaches for surface cutting and flattening, our method explicitly targets garment fabrication. It accounts for the unique properties and constraints of tailoring, such as seam symmetry, the usage of darts, fabric grain alignment, and a flattening distortion measure that models woven fabric deformation, respecting its anisotropic behavior. We bootstrap a recent patch layout approach developed for quadrilateral remeshing and adapt it to the purpose of computational pattern making, ensuring that the deformation of each pattern piece stays within prescribed bounds of cloth stress. While our algorithm can automatically produce the sewing patterns, it is fast enough to admit user input to creatively iterate on the pattern design. Our method can take several target poses of the 3D garment into account and integrate them into the sewing pattern design. We demonstrate results on both skintight and loose garments, showcasing the versatile application possibilities of our approach.
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Afifah, Rahmi Nur, Marina Yustiana Lubis, and Yunita Nugrahaini Safrudin. "Perancangan Autolamp pada Mesin Cutting untuk Meminimasi Produk Cacat Menggunakan Metode QFD di CV. XYZ." JATI UNIK : Jurnal Ilmiah Teknik dan Manajemen Industri 6, no. 2 (April 30, 2023): 1–13. http://dx.doi.org/10.30737/jatiunik.v6i2.3315.

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Current technological developments benefit the Indonesian garment industry. Garment business must continue to innovate and improve the quality of their products in order to compete in an increasingly competitive market. CV. XYZ is a garment company in Bandung with superior products PDL shirts. The company is facing conflicts over fabric cutting process defects that have not been controlled. It is not yet known exactly the root cause of the cutting process resulting in high product defects. The purpose of this study is to determine the causes of high defects in the cutting process and design improvement strategies in the cutting process that suit user needs. The method used is FMEA which aims to determine the highest causes of defects in the cutting process so that strategies are obtained to minimize product defects, and the QFD method is used to design improvement strategies in the cutting process.. The results of the FMEA analysis found that the main cause of defects in the cutting process was eye fatigue in the operator caused by insufficient lighting in the cutting area. Using the QFD method produces an autolamp design that is integrated into the cutting machine with the function of providing lighting to the cutting area to make it easier for operators to see the fabric cutting pattern area. By using the QFD method in designing autolamp on cutting machines, it can produce product designs that meet the needs of cutting operators and have optimal features.
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Nguyen, Tan Thang, Manh Tuan Bui, and Thanh-Phong Dao. "Research on Redesign and Manufacturing of an Automatic Roll Cutting Machine." Journal of Advanced Engineering and Computation 5, no. 1 (March 31, 2021): 27. http://dx.doi.org/10.25073/jaec.202151.312.

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Textile-and-garment industry is one of the largest economic sectors in Vietnam, with 4000 enterprises and a turnover of 20 billion USD/year. Therefore, designing and manufacturing are essential tasks for roll fabric cutting machines to serve the textile and garment industry. First of all, theoretical calculations are formulated for an automatic roll cutting machine. Then, simulations are conducted by a combination of MITcalc and Catia software. A prototype of a fabric cutting machine is manufactured and experiments are implemented. The experimental results show that the machine stably works and overcomes the disadvantages of the popular cutting machines with the core-free roll on the market. The results also found that the size tolerance is achieved about ± 0.5 mm, and this ensures good working quality. The designed machine has a significant contribution to the textile and garment area in decreasing the cost of the cutting process. This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium provided the original work is properly cited.
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Jin, Ai Yan, and Xiao Mei Shang. "Feature Analysis and Extraction of the Garment Layout Planning." Advanced Materials Research 796 (September 2013): 439–42. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.796.439.

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Automatic cutting helps improve efficiency in modern garment production. The design of cutting Numerical Control System determines the speed and quality of cutting flow. The optimization of cutting path based on different marking project, which helps improve not only the efficiency but also the level of systematic intelligence. The optimization of automatic cutting path varies with different layout planning. The layout planning of style design is different, so the individual feature of automatic cutting movement is different. The difference reduces the efficiency of automatic cutting work. Therefore it becomes especially important to analyze and extract common and individual feature of the different garment marking. This paper makes in-depth analysis on the layout planning of enterprises dressing gowns. Through using the method of actual discharge case by comparing and mathematical statistics, from the frequency characteristics, the sample outline of linear features and the utilization rate of discharge, this paper abstracts the character of different schemes of the dressing gown, obtains the common and individual feature, generates the linear path configuration of different pattern. The linear path help automatic cutting system path optimization for scientific basis and technical methods.
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Devetak, Tanja. "Space In Fashion Design – Ƒ2 (Fabiani Fashion) Case Study." South East European Journal of Architecture and Design 2016 (December 17, 2016): 1–6. http://dx.doi.org/10.3889/seejad.2016.10027.

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TThese research inquiries into the transformation of complex architectural spatial objects into contemporary garments by implementing creative pattern cutting as an integrated part of the fashion design process. From the architecture design process, a creative process of generating ideas using the human body as the centre point of the creative process, and an understanding of the envelope around that space were implemented and researched in fashion design. A creative construction method evolved using the standard matrix of basic blocks and implementation of the sculptural work by creating three-dimensional paper garment forms. In this way, garment design is created inside - outside. The resulting garment forms visually articulate meanings arising from the architectural design works of Maks Fabiani regarding structure, historical context, content from within the premises and personal sensory experiences. The envisaged results are highly applicable, but, with a theoretical significance, they also open different views on a fashion design development process. The Ƒ2 (Fabiani Fashion) case study was carried out in 2015 by the author Tanja Devetak.
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Dissertations / Theses on the topic "Garment cutting"

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Maher, Theresa Anne. "Development of a transducer for detecting pressure load between a garment and the body." Thesis, This resource online, 1991. http://scholar.lib.vt.edu/theses/available/etd-03172010-020357/.

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Lindqvist, Rickard. "Kinetic garment construction : remarks on the foundations of pattern cutting." Doctoral thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2015. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-25.

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Fashion designers are presented with a range of different methods for pattern cutting, and the interest in this field has grown rapidly over the past few years. This growth is both due to the publication of a number of works dealing with the subject in different ways and the fact that a growing number of designers emphasise cutting in their creative practices. Though a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives. This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.
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Xu, Yanni. "Optimization of the cutting-related processes for consumer-centered garment manufacturing." Thesis, Lille 1, 2020. http://www.theses.fr/2020LIL1I015.

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Ce travail vise à optimiser la production de vêtements et à résoudre le dilemme entre le personnalisation et le coût dans le contexte de la personnalisation de masse. Tout d'abord, des méthodes pratiques de coupe (incluant la définition des tailles) pour la personnalisation de masse issues des pratiques industrielles de production sont proposées. Des tailles additionnelles, sélectionnées pour leurs bonnes performances de personnalisation et de coût, sont utlisées pour optimiser les processus de coupe, à savoir le taillant, le matellassage et placement, par des méthodes exactes et d'intelligence artificielle. Un algorithme génétique est utilisé pour construire l'ensemble de tailles optimisant le bien aller, une optimisation linéaire en nombres entiers est utilisée pour définir la planification de la coupe la moins coûteuse, une régression multi-linéaire et un réseau neuronal sont appliqués pour estimer la longueur des placements. Ces différentes méthodes proposées pour améliorer la personnalisation de masse se sont avérées efficaces. La relation indirecte entre le degré de personnalisation et le coût de la coupe est établie. Ces methodes ont également permis de définir les meileures compromis entre la satisfaction consommateur et les coûts de production. Le modèle de prévision de la longueur de placement permet de réduire la charge de travail pour le calcul de placement et fournit ainsi les longueurs de placements utiles pour estimer les coûts avec une efficacité élevée et une précision acceptable. L'ensemble de ces travaux contribue à la transition de la production de masse de vêtements vers personnalisation de masse
The work aims to make optimizations of garment production and resolve the dilemma between personalization and cost in the context of mass customization. Firstly, practical mass customization methods regarding cutting-related processes (including sizing) are proposed adapted from the industrial practice of traditional mass production. Due to the good performances of personalization and cost, additional sizes are adopted in the further optimizations of specific cutting-related processes, i.e., sizing, cutting order planning, and marker making with exact methods and artificial intelligence techniques. A genetic algorithm is used for the best set of additional sizes, an integer programming is employed for the best cutting order plan (i.e., the lay planning with the corresponding markers), a multi-linear regression, and a neural network are applied to estimating marker lengths. The proposed mass customization methods are proved to be efficient. The underneath indirect relationship between personalization and cost is established. With the help of the optimized cutting-related processes, the balance of personalization and cost is demonstrated. The estimation of marker length reduces the marker making workload and provides marker lengths for cutting cost estimation with a high efficiency and an acceptable accuracy. All the above enable the garment production to shift from mass production to mass customization
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Lentsius, Kairi. "Cut In : Exploring Curved Laser Cut Lines & The Relation To Garment Construction." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2015. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-201.

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This project investigates laser cutting in relation to textile manipulation and creating three-dimensional form. More precisely, this collection of nine outfits becomes an exploration about expressions of laser cut lines and their interrelation to the body through folding and draping the textile material. The laser cut bridge line used, will be the guiding part for a garments construction and through this different shapes are tested. This way of working with the material, its character and added manipulation will propose a new understanding of and an alternative for constructing a garment. This investigation is also a proposal for a new mind-set when it comes to using laser cutting in fashion design. Laser cutting has mainly been regarded as a technique for decoration, yet the machine could have a much greater role in the design process. Textile manipulation in this work is seen not only as a surface decoration but as a method of creating a 3D form from a 2D material which in this case is a method of design for shaping a garment. Through this, the work will hopefully challenge the industry in terms of working with laser cutting, garment construction and also textile manipulation.
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Gram, Greta. "SUN PIECE : actions of cutting." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Institutionen Textilhögskolan, 2013. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-17071.

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This works explores how to work with Event scores as a design method. In the search for what is real or what is reality the already existing things are being explored. The work started with investigating suitable ways to work with the moving body in the design process, with the aim to find a method that gave control but also left some parameters to the undecided and ambiguous. Convinced that this will lead to something new some parts of the process were highlighted and re-formulated.
Program: Modedesignutbildningen
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Yezhova, Olga, Kalina Pashkevich, Olena Kolosnichenko, Olena Gerasymenko, and Maryna Kolosnichenko. "Forecasted labor functions of fashion industry specialists." Thesis, AIP Publishing LLC, 2022. https://er.knutd.edu.ua/handle/123456789/19420.

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The labor functions of the fashion industry workers during cutting of the garments in case of modern and forecasted productions for substantiation of the content of training of qualified workers have been analyzed. The labor functions have been characterized in the context of structuring the production operation as to its phases: preparatory, executive, and control and management. For the operation on cutting of the clothing, the models of the content of the workers` labor for three types of production have been prepared: for industrial, individual, and forecasted. It has been grounded that during the forecasted production the major changes in the content of the cutters` work would take place at the preparatory stage and at the executive stage. It is summarized that during the forecasted production of garments, the qualified workers will need the knowledge and skills on the use of new technologies and materials, computerized equipment, and professionally-oriented software.
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Books on the topic "Garment cutting"

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Ralston, Margaret C. Dress cutting. Joliet, IL: Bramcost Publications, 2008.

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Cooklin, Gerry. Garment technology for fashion designers. Oxford: Blackwell Science, 1997.

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Vincent, W. D. F. Tailoring of the Belle Epoque: Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments (1903). Mendocino: R.L. Shep, 1991.

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1933-, Shep R. L., and Hopkins J. C, eds. Edwardian ladies' tailoring: The twentieth century system of ladies' garment cutting (1910). 4th ed. Mendocino, CA: R.L. Shep, 1990.

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Joseph), McLoughlin John (John, Fairclough Dorothy, and Cooklin Gerry, eds. Cooklin's garment technology for fashion designers. 2nd ed. Chichester, West Sussex: J. Wiley & Sons, 2012.

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Holding, Thomas Hiram. Late Victorian women's tailoring: The direct system of ladies' cutting (1897). 3rd ed. Mendocino: R.L. Shep, 1997.

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Holding, T. H. Late Victorian women's tailoring: The direct system of ladies' cutting (1897). 3rd ed. Mendocino: R.L. Shep, 1997.

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Aldrich, Winifred. Metric pattern cutting for menswear. 5th ed. Chichester, West Sussex: J. Wiley & Sons, 2011.

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Gordon, S. S. Ladies' tailor-made garments. Berkeley, CA: LACIS Publications, 1993.

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Co, Jno J. Mitchell, ed. "Standard" work on cutting: (men's garments) revised, enlarged and improved : a complete treatise on the art and science of garment cutting. 5th ed. Mendocino, Calif: R.L. Shep, 1990.

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Book chapters on the topic "Garment cutting"

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Wang, Xiaoyun, Zhenzhen Huang, Manliang Qiu, and Fenglin Zhang. "Research in Garment Cutting Plan Optimization System." In Advances in Intelligent and Soft Computing, 403–9. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2012. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-29148-7_56.

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Sheng, Jiachuan, Zheng Zhao, Jiawan Zhang, Shang Liu, and Li He. "Clothing Rendering Based on Space Analytic Geometry and Garment Cutting Piece Technique." In Advances in Intelligent and Soft Computing, 813–21. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2012. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-29455-6_109.

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Li, ShanShan. "Multi-color Garment Cutting and Decoupling Optimization Teaching Method Based on Data Mining Algorithm." In Application of Big Data, Blockchain, and Internet of Things for Education Informatization, 204–10. Cham: Springer Nature Switzerland, 2023. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-23947-2_22.

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Joshi, Jharna, and Anirban Chowdhury. "Creating Products from Textile Waste Generated During Fabric Cutting Stage in the Garment Production Process." In Advanced Manufacturing Systems and Innovative Product Design, 79–91. Singapore: Springer Singapore, 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-981-15-9853-1_8.

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Dolber, Brian. "“Cutting the Pathway in the Wilderness of Confusion”: Worker Education and the Garment Unions, 1919–1932." In Media and Culture in the U.S. Jewish Labor Movement, 51–88. Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-43548-0_3.

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Vilumsone-Nemes, I. "Fabric spreading and cutting." In Garment Manufacturing Technology, 221–46. Elsevier, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/b978-1-78242-232-7.00009-6.

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Vilumsone-Nemes, Ineta. "Automation in spreading and cutting." In Automation in Garment Manufacturing, 139–64. Elsevier, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-08-101211-6.00006-9.

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Abernathy, Frederick H., John T. Dunlop, Janice H. Hammond, and David Weil. "Getting Ready to Sew." In A Stitch In Time, 129–50. Oxford University PressNew York, NY, 1999. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780195126150.003.0008.

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Abstract The late Joseph Gerber, founder of Gerber Garment Technology Company in Tolland, Connecticut, invented automated fabric cutting and introduced it to the market in 1969. This innovative company went on to create a new industry in automatic-cutting equipment. By the late 1970s, Gerber Garment Technology was supplying the automotive and apparel industries with its GERBERcutter, allowing firms to cut cloth and nonwoven material more effectively. The Gerber system first made it possible for a computer to guide the cutting knife anywhere on the cutting table. Gerber’s automatic-cutting equipment, as well as that of several other international competitors, has continued to improve; cloth from a single ply to layers up to six inches thick can now be cut quickly and accurately.
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Viļumsone-Nemes, I. "Introduction to cutting room operations in garment manufacture." In Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials, 1–5. Elsevier, 2012. http://dx.doi.org/10.1533/9780857095565.1.

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McCann, J., S. Morsky, and X. Dong. "Garment construction: cutting and placing of materials." In Smart Clothes and Wearable Technology, 235–61. Elsevier, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1533/9781845695668.3.235.

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Conference papers on the topic "Garment cutting"

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Kim, Boowon, and Young-A. Lee. "Exploring Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting for Transformable Garment Design Process." In Innovate to Elevate. Iowa State University Digital Press, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.31274/itaa.15833.

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CHEN, ZHIGE, LICHUAN WANG, and JING YE. "PROCESS OPTIMIZATION ON GENERALIZED TRAVELING SALESMAN PROBLEM OF THE AUTOMATIC CUTTING PATH PLAN FOR GARMENT CNC CUTTING SYSTEM." In Conference on Uncertainty Modelling in Knowledge Engineering and Decision Making (FLINS 2016). WORLD SCIENTIFIC, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789813146976_0159.

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Putri, Arinda Soraya, Mohamad Joehan Fadhkurridha, and Rizka Amelia Gestinengtias. "Implementation of key performance indicators (KPIs) in garment cutting section using balance scorecard (BSC)." In PROCEEDINGS OF THE 8TH INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON ENGINEERING, TECHNOLOGY, AND INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONS 2021 (8th ICETIA 2021): Engineering, Environment, and Health: Exploring the Opportunities for the Future. AIP Publishing, 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/5.0179852.

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Avadanei, Manuela, Emilia Filipescu, and Irina Ionescu. "ONLINE ASSESSMENT OF THE GARMENT PATTERN MAKING KNOWLEDGE." In eLSE 2015. Carol I National Defence University Publishing House, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.12753/2066-026x-15-261.

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Garment pattern making is a complex activity in which the aesthetical principles are interpreted and transposed in different contour lines, by taking into account the properties of the fabrics and the shape of the human body. Each shadow and line from the fashion sketch must be very well understood and used in the design process, in order for the final product to have similar aesthetical characteristics with the initial sketch. Patterns are designed either by 2D or by 3D process, manually or by using CAD modules. The traditional method used in 2D pattern making is the flat one, in which the contour lines are drawn in a block after some calculations have been made. The structure and the complexity of the mathematical relations used to determine the dimensions of the constructive segments are influenced by: the position of the constructive segment onto the body, the shape of the body or the geometry of the outline boundaries, the constructive and aesthetical properties of the model for which the patterns are designed and the experience of the designer in "reading and interpreting" the sketch. In the 3D pattern making process, the patterns are generated from a 3D form. The draping method is one of the oldest methods used to generate the garment pieces by molding, cutting and pinning fabric to a mannequin or an individual person. The style lines and the construction details of the drape are carefully marked and removed. The fabric pieces are then laid flat over the pattern paper and traced. This method is used to develop intricate garment styles or unusual fabrics. The pattern making course delivered at the Faculty of Textiles, Leather and Industrial Management from Iasi, Romania aims at providing strong knowledge concerning the principles of designing apparel products by taking into account the body shape outlines (posture, conformation or other particularities), the properties of the fabrics and the characteristics of the model. The students have different rhythm in working and understanding the information taught by the teacher and for this reason it is necessary to develop alternative teaching and assessment methods during classes. The paper presents a set of online tests concerning the self-assessment of pattern making principles. The tests have been developed by using the Quiz Creator program, which offers flexibility in creating various types of questions, and provides an area to insert images and video files, with or without audio support. The program allows the automatic results to be sent to the teacher/ tutor. The users have the possibility of checking their answers one more time in case of a wrong choice, without being warned by the computer. At the end of the test, one can check the answers of the whole test, compared to the right ones.
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ALMALKI, Faizah, Simeon GILL, Steven G. HAYES, and Lisa TAYLOR. "3D Body Scanners' Ability to Improve the Cutting of Patterns for Traditional Saudi Garment to Assimilate Them into Modern-Day Clothing." In 3DBODY.TECH 2020 - 11th International Conference and Exhibition on 3D Body Scanning and Processing Technologies, Online/Virtual, 17-18 November 2020. Ascona, Switzerland: Hometrica Consulting - Dr. Nicola D'Apuzzo, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.15221/20.25.

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Blaga, Mirela, Dorin Dan, and Mihai Penciuc. "INTERACTIVE SHAPE SIZER LIBRARY FOR FULLY FASHION KNITWEAR TRAINING." In eLSE 2019. Carol I National Defence University Publishing House, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.12753/2066-026x-19-188.

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The fully fashion knitting is an actual solution for producing two-dimensional shapes, appropriate to the desired finished garment structure, with minimal or no cutting, being one of the most efficient technology. The knitting programs can be processed using the automatic specialized software, developed worldwide by various machine builders. Among them, the M1plus(R) software from Stoll GmbH Germany, offers programs for creating completely new shapes or available libraries for customizing the existing shapes. The paper focuses on the presentation of the opportunities offered by the Shape Sizer program, as interactive package for designing and tailoring the shapes for online or offline training. The user can exploit the flexible features of this package, concerning the type of the knitwear product, with all structural and shape particularities. There are a variety of different shapes available, from the pullover to the single shapes, cardigans or slip overs. The programmer accesses the library choosing the knitting technology type, fully fashion or knit and wear, and then all the details regarding the panel sizes, stitch densities, narrowing or widening steps, are set-up. The program allows the grading of the panels in all dimensions, facilitating thus the further manufacturing steps. The high quality of the final product is ensured by the shaping details on the linking between the constituent parts and the binding off in the sleeves. Working with software existing libraries is a significant simplification of the programming process, as the user does no need to build all the base patterns every time a new design or machine type is required. More, for the personal training and self assessment, the off line versions are extremely useful, allowing the learner to study in his personal rhythm and environment.
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Becho, Anabela. "Sculpting the fabric: Madame Grès’ emotional and innovative Pleating Technique." In Intelligent Human Systems Integration (IHSI 2023) Integrating People and Intelligent Systems. AHFE International, 2023. http://dx.doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1002874.

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Madame Grès (1903-1993) worked for six decades in the exclusive world of Parisian haute couture, creating clothes as if they were living sculptures, always in search of the ideal dress.Her legacy was designs marked by a ceaseless quest for absolute beauty. Her long,draped dresses crafted with obsession and technical mastery are a profound reflection on fashion, time and memory. In its undying association with sculpture, her oeuvre encloses an inherent affirmative, solid, timeless perpetuity. Respect for the principles of design lies in Grès’s discourse with textiles; because it is a discourse, a thought that is transformed into matter, that grows pleat by pleat in a game of alternating light and shade. The couturier's folds enclose successive pain and mystery, melancholy and persistence, obsession and conviction. There can be no doubt that Grès’s gowns were designed for the female form, in the cutting and manipulation of the fabric, in a prodigious, precise technique in which nothing could be left to chance. This is why they are perfect examples of the highest calling of design.Nonetheless, it is precisely in the relationship between body and gown, the harmony and tension between the organic and inorganic, that Grès’s work goes beyond mere design. It moves naturally into the real world of creation, as the couturier’s gowns do not just dress the body; they become the body itself, in which fabric and flesh turn into a single, indivisible, absolute entity. Even though her oeuvre was much wider than the so-called “goddess dresses”, the long draped gowns, reminiscent of eternal time, became her archetype. Incontrast with the ephemeral nature of fashion, it is my goal to show in the course of this paper that precisely the opposite can be true, through the observation of the French couturier’s meticulous, emotional and innovative pleating technique, in which the role of avant-garde materials is crucial. The expressive use of pleating and drapery in all its limitless variation and fluidity along the outside is rightly considered to be Grès’ hallmark. Grès had a profound respect for the textile material, honouring its integrity, preferring not to cut it, and reducing its size through successive pleats — the amplitude of her dresses’ skirts could occasionally reach twenty metres in diameter. Grès’s work was unmistakably modern, though it did not seem to belong to a particular age. At the same time, it takes us back to a distant past and forward into the future. The evocative power of her gowns is absolutely breathtaking. It is ingrained in their materiality, the details of their construction, and the quest for perfection and for beauty. Although a woman of her time, bound by a cultural context specific to her epoch, there is a deliberate quest for timelessness at the very heart of Grès’ work, which, I argue, can be perceived in her technique. In a manual process, wrapped in an emotional dimension, each draping, rib, or pleat is worked minutely, actively taking part in the construction of the garment’s final shape. The initial width of the fabric could be reduced to a few centimetres by an exquisite pleating technique: to be kept in place the folds were sewn at the back, a sartorial innovation in the universe of Parisian haute-couture. Time seems to be suspended by this technical detail. In the light of the French philosopher Henri Bergson's theory, this suspension can be seen as durée, a moment of simultaneity, an experience of temporality based on a constant interaction between the past (the classical approach), the present (the moment of the making of the dress) and the future (the preview of the following repetitive gesture of making). In the draping of the fabric, we become conscious of the physical dimension of the hand that created the sculptural object, that carved the cloth as if it was stone, involving the body in a game of hide and seek, concealing and revealing its contours, emphasising its movements. It is this tension between the body and the fabric that brings the dresses alive, as the result of an emotional relationship between the humanity of the making process and the technical innovation of the textile material.
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