Academic literature on the topic 'Kawabata Evaluation System'

This paper studied the mechanical behavior of composite yarn fabrics and pure cotton yarn fabrics with the conditions of small deformation, then making some comparison. KES-F (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric) system was used in the research process. The study shows that the fabric samples made of composite yarn exhibit noticeable improvement on mechanical property after using composite yarn. The results lay a solid foundation for the application and extension of composite yarn fabrics.

The effect of enzyme treatments with consecutive softening by the use of silicone – polyurethane on low stress mechanical properties and hand values of jute/cotton union fabric have been studied on the Kawabata evaluation system (KES). The results indicate that the enzyme treated, silicone – polyurethane finished fabric has significant (p<0.05) improvement in tensile resilience, fabric extensibility, compressional resistance and friction co efficient, whereas fabric thickness, linearity of tensile, surface roughness, bending and shear rigidity and their hysteresis are reduced compared to the untreated fabric. Under the Kawabata system, the Koshi (stiffness) value of the finished fabric is decreased by 1-9%. Numeri (smoothness) and Fukurami (fullness and softness) values are increased by 11-20% and 3-4% respectively compared to the untreated fabric. The variation in primary hand values are significant (p<0.05). The total hand value (THV) is also increased by 6% and 44% for the case of 40/60 and 50/50 jute/cotton union fabrics, respectively. This study confirms the possible usage of jute/cotton fabric in the apparel segment.

Textile’s primary hand (HV) and total hand values (THV) are very important parameters and are used to identify the quality of clothing comfort. This paper aims to predict the HV and THV of the fabrics finished with functional polymers by applying Kawabata’s translation equations. The mechanical properties were achieved using Kawabata’s fabric evaluation system (KES-F) and the inference/interpretation was drawn. Then, HV and THV predictions were performed by applying Kawabata’s translation equations of the KN-101 and KN-301 series. The KES-F result confirmed that it is possible to observe the operative finishing effect on the mechanical properties of fabrics. The prediction results show that the total quality comfort of the functional fabrics could able be estimated by the equation developed by Kawabata; the calculated errors (~0.66) were within the range of the standard deviations (~0.78) of the samples between the predicted and ranked THV. The experimental and the calculated primary hand values showed strong correlation coefficients up to ~0.98 which is significant at 0.001 confidence levels. As actual functional fabrics with various surface properties were provided to estimate their tactile comfort via the equations, the result verified that the equation is reliable for the tactile comfort evaluation and grading.

In this study, three commercially available innerwears were collected from the market. Their air permeability and thermal properties were evaluated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). Exerimental results revealed that the fibre content played an important role in affecting the air permeability and the thermal properties of the innerwears.

For investigating effect of soft finish on the handle of polyester fabric, the study shows physical properties on polyester fabric before and after finishing, then making some comparison base on the test results. KES-F (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric) system was used in the test. The study shows that the fabric samples exhibit noticeable improvement on wearable property after soft finish.

A total of 37 commercial woven fabrics of variable composition, weave type and aerial weight were studied by using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) and a modified version of the ring method called the “UPC ring method” that was developed by the authors in previous work. The parameters of the KES-F system were correlated with those of the UPC ring method via canonical correlation analysis.

In this study, 12 commercially available paper towels were collected from the market. Their shearing properties were evaluated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). Three properties namely: (i) coefficient of friction (MIU), (ii) deviation of MIU (MMD) and (iii) geometric roughness (SMD). Experimental results revealed that the surface properties varied within the products. When different properties were correlated, it was found that there was not significantly relationship between MIU, MMD and SMD. However, weight and thickness had well statistically relationship to SMD.

12 commercially available paper towels were collected from the local market and studied in this paper. Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F) was used for evaluating their bending properties. Two bending properties namely: (i) bending rigidity (B) and (ii) bending moment (2HB) were evaluated. Experimental results indciated that the bending properties varied within the products. B was used as the key property for discussing the bending properties of paper towels. When the correlations of different bending properties were investigated, it was found that no significant was found between B and 2HB. However, there was significant statistically relationship between weight and B but no relationship between thickness and B. With the use of the results, the product developer could improve the bending properties of the paper towels.

Seam quality is affected by various fabric mechanical properties with a combination of their sewing parameters. Previously, a lot of research has been done on identifying the parameters that influencing seam quality by looking into correlation between fabric properties and sewing parameters. The purpose of this current study was to investigate the performance of seam quality in terms of seam appearance and strength constructed with different sewing parameters. Another aim was to identify parameters that influence the seam quality using the Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) by AMOS and leads to the development of multivariable predictive equations using SPSS. Finally, the validation between experimental and predicted results using newly developed equations was examined using a new set of fabrics. The investigation was done for five different fabric categories, namely light, light to medium, medium, medium to heavy and heavy weight. A total of 45 fabrics with different weave densities, fibre types and structures were used. Seams were produced using various sewing parameters such as threads with different fibre types and structures, needle sizes and stitch densities. All fabrics were tested for their mechanical properties using two established items of equipment known as Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) and Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST). Seam evaluations together with thread and fabric mechanical properties obtained from KES-F and FAST were used as input for modelling. From the experimental work, it was concluded that the usage of thicker threads did not always give better strength and the seam appearance was also poor. A combination of finer thread with moderate strength and a medium level of stitch density according to fabric weight category provided an effective result for both seam appearance and strength. From the modelling work, it was found that the extensibility, bending and shearing properties, together with thread properties including extensibility, tensile strength and size, were among the properties selected by SEM to be included in the predictive equations. The validation results showed that the standard deviation between fabric properties used to develop the equations and new fabric properties used for validation plays an important role. The principal conclusion was that the prediction equations developed using SEM and SPSS possible to be used and gave a strong validation between experimental and predicted results when the new fabric properties were within one standard deviation.

En förväntad ökning av jordens befolkning ställer den redan ökande fiberkonsumtionen på sin spets. Bomull är en av de mest frekvent använda textilfibrerna men dess vatten- och kemikalieanvändning i framställningsprocessen har lett till förödande konsekvenser för människa och miljö. Flera alternativa, hållbara fibrer behöver därmed introduceras på marknaden. Garn av papper från råvaran abacá har länge använts till textila ändamål till följd av dess goda mekaniska egenskaper. På senare år har intresset för fibern ökat främst på grund av dess miljömässiga fördelar i jämförelse med bomull. Garn av papper är dock styvt och känns strävt mot huden. För att vidga pappersgarnets användningsområden måste därför dess taktila egenskaper förbättras genom någon typ av behandling. Textilproduktion är kemikaliekrävande och flertalet av kemikalierna som används är miljö- och hälsofarliga. Det är därför av intresse att hitta en mekanisk metod för mjukgöring snarare än en kemisk. En sådan mjukgöring har därav utvecklats och undersökts inom projektets ramar. Mjukgöringen är en smärglingsbehandling i garnform där garnet leds genom en bladspännare utrustad med två sandpapper som smärgeldukar. Behandlingen ämnar öka antalet utstickande fiberändar och på så vis efterlikna känslan av ett stapelfibergarn. Genom att garnet behandlas redan i garnstadiet kan det sedan användas till valfri textil konstruktionsteknik. För att undersöka effekten av smärglingsbehandlingen har studien delats in i två delar. Den ena delen undersöker två klassiska denimvävar av 100 % papper där väftgarnet i den ena väven har smärglats en gång medan väftgarnet i den andra är obehandlat. Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) har använts för att objektivt analysera vävarnas taktila egenskaper, alltså hur de känns vid beröring. För att undersöka hur vävens ytstruktur förändrats till följd av behandlingen har provkropparna fotograferats i svepelektronmikroskop (SEM) och ljusmikroskop. Studiens andra del undersöker effekten av upprepade smärglingsbehandlingar på garn. Pappersgarner som behandlats mellan noll och fem gånger undersöks dels gällande dess mekaniska egenskaper men även visuellt i SEM och med hjälp av ljusmikroskop. Behandlingen förväntas minska garnets styrka. För att kontrollera om de behandlade garnerna är tillräckligt starka för att användas i en industriell vävprocess trots den mekaniska degraderingen jämfördes deras styrka med ett referensgarn av bomull. Majoriteten av resultaten från KES-testerna visar på att det inte är någon skillnad mellan en obehandlad väv och en väv vars väftgarn är smärglat en gång. Den behandlade väven är dock lättare att komprimera och har en större initial tjocklek än den obehandlade väven. Detta tyder på att smärglingen kan ha ändrat garnernas diameter vilket resulterat i högre invävning och därmed ökad vikt och tjocklek. Den visuella undersökningen av garnerna i ljusmikroskop pekar mot ett ökat antal utstickande fiberändar i takt med ökat antal behandlingar. Dock är skillnaden mellan det osmärglade garnet och det garn som enbart smärglats en gång liten. Dragprovning av garn visar att det pappersgarn som smärglats fem gånger har signifikant lägre brottkraft än de övriga pappersgarnerna men är starkare än referensgarnet i bomull. Detta styrker förväntningen om att smärgling försämrar styrkan på garnet men visar också att de behandlade garnerna, trots den minskade styrkan, bör vara tillräckligt starka för att användas som väftgarn i maskinell vävning. Fiberändarnas effekt i en denimväv behöver undersökas vidare för att en slutsats kring hur de påverkar den taktila komforten ska kunna dras. Metoden för garnsmärgling är i sin initiala fas och flera parametrar behöver undersökas närmare innan metoden skulle kunna implementeras på industriell skala som en metod för mjukgöring av pappersgarn med syfte att främja den framtida fibermångfalden.
An expected population increase and rising consumption of textile fibres creates a demand for both new materials and processes. Cotton is one of the most frequently used fibres but its use is resource intensive both in terms of water and chemical agents. To meet these demands a range of alternative, sustainable fibres need to be developed and introduced into the market. Due to its good mechanical properties paper yarns produced from the abacá plant have long been used in textile applications. In recent years it has also garnered increased interest as a result of its environmental benefits in comparison to cotton. However, paper yarns tend to be stiff and feel coarse in contact with skin. In order for paper yarns to have larger fields of use its tactile qualities must therefore be improved. The production of textiles is generally reliant on the use of chemicals that in varying degree pose threats both to human health and the environment as a whole. It would therefore be beneficial to develop a method for the softening of paper yarns that is based on a mechanical approach, rather than a chemical one. In this project a mechanical method of softening paper yarns has been developed and tested. The softening process is an altered approach to conventional emery grinding and is performed on yarn rather than fabric. The yarn is guided through a leaf tensioner fitted with two sand papers with the purpose to increase the number of protruding fibre ends, thereby reproducing the feel of staple fibre yarns. In order to investigate the effects of the emery grinding two classical denim weaves were produced from 100 % paper yarn. The weft yarn in one of the weaves was emery ground once while the other was left untreated. Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) was used to objectively analyze the tactile qualities of the differently treated weaves. In addition to KES-tests Scanning Electron Microscopy and light microscopy was utilized for a visual analysis. Since it would also be of interest to study the effects of repeated treatments, yarn treated up to five times was inspected both visually and mechanically. The emery grinding process is expected to decrease the strength of the yarn. To check whether the emery ground yarns were strong enough to be used in an industrial weaving process, its strength was compared to a cotton yarn previously used as a weft yarn in a denim weave. Results from KES show no significant changes concerning the majority of parameters tested on the weaves. The treated weave is however easier to compress and presents an increase in initial thickness when compared to the untreated one. This indicates that the emery grinding may have altered the yarns diameter resulting in a higher crimp in the weave causing an increase in the weight and thickness of the fabric. The visual inspection of the yarns using a digital microscope point to an increase in protruding fibre ends as the number of treatments increase. The difference between untreated paper yarn and yarn that had been emery ground once was however small. The tensile test shows that yarn that had been treated five times had a significantly lower tensile strength compared to the other paper yarns but was still stronger than the cotton yarn. This indicates that emery grinding does indeed decrease the tensile strength of the paper yarn, but that it still should be strong enough to be used in industrial weaving. Paper yarn treated more than once would have to be studied further in order to come to a conclusion about their impact on the tactile comfort of the weave. The method of emery grinding is in its initial phase and a number of parameters can be assumed to have an effect on the results of the process. In the interest of creating more diversity in textile fibres the effects of these parameters would all have to be explored before this method can be implemented on an industrial scale for the softening of paper yarns.

A model of fabric bending that includes a nonlinear elastic contribution, a viscous friction contribution, a Coulomb friction contribution, and a hysteretic contribution is presented. These are combined to recover the loading, unloading and hysteresis behaviors observed in the bending tests performed under the Kawabata Evaluation System. Results of the model and its components are compared and contrasted with experimental results. It is found that inertial effects dominate the behavior of the model in the early stages of the KES test and that, once the static friction threshold is overcome, friction arises from the slipping of the yarns with respect to each other. The results show that nonlinear elastic behavior arises from jamming of the yarns and their subsequent compression.

The state of wrinkles and folds formed on our dress according to human postures and movements is an important design element. Fashion designers must envisage the fabric state as wrinkling and folding. However, this is not easy because the fabric state strongly depends on the mechanical properties of the fabric, and in this sense, fabric simulation can aid designers in envisaging the fabric state. In previous works on fabric simulation, fabric models are proposed and developed based on the simple mass spring model. Since none of the models proposed so far take into account the state of slipping at the contact point of the warp and weft, simulated results differ from real fabric states. This paper proposes a method to simulate real fabric state taking into consideration slipping. In order to obtain real simulation results, the mechanical properties of fabric obtained by KES: Kawabata Evaluation System [1], were used in the simulation. The effectiveness of the proposed model was confirmed by comparing simulated results obtained by the proposed method with simulated results obtained by a previous method. In addition, it was verified by comparing the simulated results obtained by the proposed method with real cloth states.