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1
Mitchell, M. R., R. E. Link, E. S. Namligöz, M. İ Bahtiyari, A. E. Körlü, and S. Çoban. "Evaluation of Finishing Processes for Linen Fabrics Using the Kawabata Evaluation System." Journal of Testing and Evaluation 36, no. 4 (2008): 101461. http://dx.doi.org/10.1520/jte101461.
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Shi, Jing Jing, Bin Hu, and Yuan Xue. "The Analysis of Composite Yarn Fabric Mechanical Properties by KES System." Advanced Materials Research 532-533 (June 2012): 340–43. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.532-533.340.
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This paper studied the mechanical behavior of composite yarn fabrics and pure cotton yarn fabrics with the conditions of small deformation, then making some comparison. KES-F (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric) system was used in the research process. The study shows that the fabric samples made of composite yarn exhibit noticeable improvement on mechanical property after using composite yarn. The results lay a solid foundation for the application and extension of composite yarn fabrics.
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Prathiba Devi, R., L. Sasikala, R. Rathinamoorthy, and Dr J. Jeyakodi Moses. "Performance Evaluation of Silicone-polyurethane Finished Jute / Cotton Union Fabric for Apparel End Uses." Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 18, no. 3 (August 1, 2014): 69–80. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/rjta-18-03-2014-b009.
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The effect of enzyme treatments with consecutive softening by the use of silicone – polyurethane on low stress mechanical properties and hand values of jute/cotton union fabric have been studied on the Kawabata evaluation system (KES). The results indicate that the enzyme treated, silicone – polyurethane finished fabric has significant (p<0.05) improvement in tensile resilience, fabric extensibility, compressional resistance and friction co efficient, whereas fabric thickness, linearity of tensile, surface roughness, bending and shear rigidity and their hysteresis are reduced compared to the untreated fabric. Under the Kawabata system, the Koshi (stiffness) value of the finished fabric is decreased by 1-9%. Numeri (smoothness) and Fukurami (fullness and softness) values are increased by 11-20% and 3-4% respectively compared to the untreated fabric. The variation in primary hand values are significant (p<0.05). The total hand value (THV) is also increased by 6% and 44% for the case of 40/60 and 50/50 jute/cotton union fabrics, respectively. This study confirms the possible usage of jute/cotton fabric in the apparel segment.
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G.TADESSE, MELKIE, EMIL-CONSTANTIN LOGHIN, VINCENT NIERSTRASZ, and MARIA-CARMEN LOGHIN. "Quality inspection and prediction of the comfort of fabrics finished with functional polymers." Industria Textila 71, no. 04 (August 31, 2020): 340–49. http://dx.doi.org/10.35530/it.071.04.1734.
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Textile’s primary hand (HV) and total hand values (THV) are very important parameters and are used to identify the quality of clothing comfort. This paper aims to predict the HV and THV of the fabrics finished with functional polymers by applying Kawabata’s translation equations. The mechanical properties were achieved using Kawabata’s fabric evaluation system (KES-F) and the inference/interpretation was drawn. Then, HV and THV predictions were performed by applying Kawabata’s translation equations of the KN-101 and KN-301 series. The KES-F result confirmed that it is possible to observe the operative finishing effect on the mechanical properties of fabrics. The prediction results show that the total quality comfort of the functional fabrics could able be estimated by the equation developed by Kawabata; the calculated errors (~0.66) were within the range of the standard deviations (~0.78) of the samples between the predicted and ranked THV. The experimental and the calculated primary hand values showed strong correlation coefficients up to ~0.98 which is significant at 0.001 confidence levels. As actual functional fabrics with various surface properties were provided to estimate their tactile comfort via the equations, the result verified that the equation is reliable for the tactile comfort evaluation and grading.
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Harwood, R. J., P. J. Weedall, and C. Carr. "The use of the Kawabata Evaluation System for product development and quality control." Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists 106, no. 2 (October 22, 2008): 64–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.1990.tb01244.x.
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Kan, Chi Wai, Hiu Tung Tam, and Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit. "A Study of Thermal Properties of Commercially Available Innerwear." Applied Mechanics and Materials 848 (July 2016): 178–81. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.848.178.
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In this study, three commercially available innerwears were collected from the market. Their air permeability and thermal properties were evaluated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). Exerimental results revealed that the fibre content played an important role in affecting the air permeability and the thermal properties of the innerwears.
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Yang, En Long, and Jing Jing Shi. "Effect of Soft Finishing on the Wearability of Fabric." Advanced Materials Research 197-198 (February 2011): 1236–39. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.197-198.1236.
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For investigating effect of soft finish on the handle of polyester fabric, the study shows physical properties on polyester fabric before and after finishing, then making some comparison base on the test results. KES-F (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric) system was used in the test. The study shows that the fabric samples exhibit noticeable improvement on wearable property after soft finish.
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Carrera-Gallissà, Enric, Xavier Capdevila, and Josep Valldeperas. "Correlation Analysis between the Kawabata System (KES-F) and the UPC Ring Methods of Fabric Analysis." Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 11, no. 2 (June 2016): 155892501601100. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/155892501601100201.
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A total of 37 commercial woven fabrics of variable composition, weave type and aerial weight were studied by using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) and a modified version of the ring method called the “UPC ring method” that was developed by the authors in previous work. The parameters of the KES-F system were correlated with those of the UPC ring method via canonical correlation analysis.
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Kan, Chi Wai, Maggie Hoi Man Leung, and Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit. "Determination of Surface Properties of Paper Towels with KES-F System." Applied Mechanics and Materials 848 (July 2016): 174–77. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.848.174.
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In this study, 12 commercially available paper towels were collected from the market. Their shearing properties were evaluated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). Three properties namely: (i) coefficient of friction (MIU), (ii) deviation of MIU (MMD) and (iii) geometric roughness (SMD). Experimental results revealed that the surface properties varied within the products. When different properties were correlated, it was found that there was not significantly relationship between MIU, MMD and SMD. However, weight and thickness had well statistically relationship to SMD.
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Kan, Chi Wai, Maggie Hoi Man Leung, and Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit. "Using KES-F System for Determining the Bending Properties of Paper Towels." Applied Mechanics and Materials 848 (July 2016): 170–73. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.848.170.
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12 commercially available paper towels were collected from the local market and studied in this paper. Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F) was used for evaluating their bending properties. Two bending properties namely: (i) bending rigidity (B) and (ii) bending moment (2HB) were evaluated. Experimental results indciated that the bending properties varied within the products. B was used as the key property for discussing the bending properties of paper towels. When the correlations of different bending properties were investigated, it was found that no significant was found between B and 2HB. However, there was significant statistically relationship between weight and B but no relationship between thickness and B. With the use of the results, the product developer could improve the bending properties of the paper towels.
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MUSADDAQ, AZEEM, BOUGHATTAS AMAL, SIDDIQUE HAFIZ FAISAL, ANTONIN HAVELKA, and SAJID HUSSAIN. "Comfort properties of nano-filament polyester fabrics: sensory evaluation." Industria Textila 69, no. 01 (March 1, 2018): 3–10. http://dx.doi.org/10.35530/it.069.01.1440.
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In this article, an experimental work is presented to evaluate the sensorial properties of polyester fabric constructed by nano-filament yarn. For this purpose Nano Filament polyester fabric was fabricated and compared with the spun polyester/cotton (PC) and polyester/viscose (PV) blended fabric by using Kawabata evaluation system (KES-system) to assess the handle of the fabric based on mechanical characteristic. The results revealed that the fabric made from PC and PV blended fabric were stiffer than nano-filament polyester fabric. The higher hand value (THV) resulted in lower stiffness (Koshi), and higher smoothness (Numeri) and fullness (Fukurami).Hand values of PV blended fabric were close to nano-filament polyester fabric rather than PC fabric. The overall results of tensile, shearing, bending, compression and surface characteristics of nano-filament polyester fabric were found best as compared to PC and PV blended fabric.
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Sun, Fengxin, Ruiqiang Gao, Xiaorui Hu, Zhaoqun Du, and Weidong Yu. "Experimental study on an effective method for the friction property of fabrics by the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns system." Textile Research Journal 88, no. 8 (February 7, 2017): 882–91. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517517690625.
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The main topic investigated in this paper is the effective measurement of the fabric friction property by the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY). The optimal system parameters of the CHES-FY were determined using an orthogonal experiment design based on the correlations between four curve parameters from the pulling-out force – the displacement curve of the CHES-FY and the friction coefficient tested by the Kawabata evaluation system for fabric surface tester. The repeatability and stability of the CHES-FY under settings of optimal system parameters were also analyzed. Moreover, the four curve parameters were used to cluster the smoothness/roughness handle of fabrics objectively by the k-means cluster method, and the clustering results of the k-means cluster method were compared with those of the subjective cluster method. Analysis of the results showed that the selected optimal system parameters were a good combination, and the CHES-FY with the optimal system parameters provided an effective and reliable evaluation to the friction coefficient and smoothness/roughness handle of fabrics.
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Phoophat, P., P. Kumphai, S. Suwonsichon, J. Boonyarit, C. Plangmon, and R. Chollakup. "Application of Kawabata evaluation system for the tactile properties of woven silk fabrics in textile industry." IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering 773 (March 5, 2020): 012035. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/1757-899x/773/1/012035.
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Lombard, G., O. G. Vermeersch, M. Weltrowski, J. Y. F. Dréan, and G. Riss. "MEASUREMENT OF THE BENDING RIGIDITY AND THE FRICTION COEFFICIENT OF MILKWEED FIBERS WITH THE KAWABATA EVALUATION SYSTEM." Experimental Techniques 18, no. 3 (May 1994): 9–14. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1747-1567.1994.tb00816.x.
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Raccuglia, Margherita, Kolby Pistak, Christian Heyde, Jianguo Qu, Ningtao Mao, Simon Hodder, and George Havenith. "Human wetness perception of fabrics under dynamic skin contact." Textile Research Journal 88, no. 19 (July 5, 2017): 2155–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517517716905.
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This experiment studied textile (surface texture, thickness) and non-textile (local skin temperature changes, stickiness sensation and fabric-to-skin pressure) parameters affecting skin wetness perception under dynamic interactions. Changes in fabric texture sensation between WET and DRY states and their effect on pleasantness were also studied. The surface texture of eight fabric samples, selected for their different structures, was determined from surface roughness measurements using the Kawabata Evaluation System. Sixteen participants assessed fabric wetness perception, at high pressure and low pressure conditions, stickiness, texture and pleasantness sensation on the ventral forearm. Differences in wetness perception (p < 0.05) were not determined by texture properties and/or texture sensation. Stickiness sensation and local skin temperature drop were determined as predictors of wetness perception (r2 = 0.89), and although thickness did not correlate with wetness perception directly, when combined with stickiness sensation it provided a similar predictive power (r2 = 0.86). Greater (p < 0.05) wetness perception responses at high pressure were observed compared with low pressure. Texture sensation affected pleasantness in DRY (r2 = 0.89) and WET (r2 = 0.93). In WET, pleasantness was significantly reduced (p < 0.05) compared to DRY, likely due to the concomitant increase in texture sensation (p < 0.05). In summary, under dynamic conditions, changes in stickiness sensation and wetness perception could not be attributed to fabric texture properties (i.e. surface roughness) measured by the Kawabata Evaluation System. In dynamic conditions thickness or skin temperature drop can predict fabric wetness perception only when including stickiness sensation data.
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Kan, Chi Wai, Maggie Hoi Man Leung, and Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit. "A Study of Compression Properties of Paper Towels with KES-F System." Applied Mechanics and Materials 848 (July 2016): 207–10. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.848.207.
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In this study, we chose 12 commonly available paper towels from the local market. The compression properties of the paper towels were examined by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). Three compression properties namely: (i) compressional linearity (LC), (ii) compression energy (WC) and (iii) compressional resilience (RC) were examined. The experimental results revealed that the compression properties varied within the different paper towels. RC vlaue was used as the key property for discussing the compression properties of paper towels. When different compression properties were correlated and analysed, it was found that no relationship was noted within different compression properties. On the other hand, there was not significant statistically relationship between weight and thickness to RC. It is hope that the results from this study can help the indurstry to improve the compression properties of paper towels for local market.
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Xue, Z., X. Zeng, and L. Koehl. "An intelligent method for the evaluation and prediction of fabric formability for men’s suits." Textile Research Journal 88, no. 4 (December 6, 2016): 438–52. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517516681956.
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Sixty-six commonly used suitings were selected as the experimental samples of the current study. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the mechanical properties of the samples. Each sample fabric was made into a shoulder-back as a part of a men’s suit. In order to study the appropriateness of the samples for making good shaped men’s suits, which is known as fabric formability, sensory evaluation methods have been applied to obtain panelists’ assessments on the shape of the shoulder-backs. During data analysis, principal component analysis was initially adopted to reduce the complexity of the system by extracting a small number of important mechanical properties. Then, a fuzzy neural network was developed to model the underlying relations between the samples’ formability and their mechanical properties. Finally, a number of testing samples were used to verify the effectiveness of the proposed predictive model.
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Lahey, T. J., and G. R. Heppler. "Mechanical Modeling of Fabrics in Bending." Journal of Applied Mechanics 71, no. 1 (January 1, 2004): 32–40. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/1.1629757.
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A fabric bending model that includes contributions from nonlinear elasticity, and viscous and Coulomb friction with hysteretic effects is presented. The model allows the recovery of the loading, unloading and hysteresis behaviors observed in the Kawabata evaluation system (KES) bending tests and provides the ability to simulate a continuum of property curves and to extrapolate to loading conditions not covered in the KES regimen. Model results are compared to experimental results. It is found that hysteretic behavior is observed due to friction between the yarns, and that nonlinear elastic behavior arises from jamming of the yarns and their subsequent compression.
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Jariyapunya, Nareerut, Blažena Musilová, and Marie Koldinská. "Evaluating the Influence of Fiber Composition and Structure of Knitting Fabrics on Total Hand Value (THV)." Applied Mechanics and Materials 848 (July 2016): 211–15. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.848.211.
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This paper presents analytical and experimental procedures to evaluate the influence of knitted fabrics on the total hand value (THV) for women’s winter thin dress. We examined and compared its mechanical properties, such as tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface roughness and friction properties, measured by the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES FB-Auto), of knitted fabrics with different fiber compositions and different types of knitted structures. The obtained results showed that the knitted structures have significantly influenced on the total hand value (THV) whereas the fiber compositions have shown a less effect on (THV). The existing results prove that the evaluation by KES FB-Auto system has been more beneficial for its basic of mechanical and surface properties. Moreover, the results could be analyzed for its new designing patterns for a refined, comfortable stretch fit.
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Zhou, Rong, Xueli Wang, Jianyong Yu, Zhenzhen Wei, and Yu Gao. "Evaluation of Luster, Hand Feel and Comfort Properties of Modified Polyester Woven Fabrics." Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 12, no. 4 (December 2017): 155892501701200. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/155892501701200409.
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This paper reports a hollow copolyester fiber modified with polyethylene glycol and sodium-5-sulfo-bis-(hydroxyethyl)-isophthalate, abbreviated as ECDP-H, which has the potential to be a replacement for cotton. The objective evaluation of luster (contrast glossiness) and Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) (four Primary Hand Parameters and the Total Hand) of ECDP-H, PET and cotton fabrics are studied in order to investigate the cotton-like appearance of the ECDP-H. The results of moisture regain and dynamic moisture absorption values obtained indicate that the hydrophilicity of the ECDP-H fabric is better than that of PET fabric. The thermo-physiological performance for three fabrics is determined using air and water vapor permeability, wicking, warm-cooling feeling, thermal resistance and vapor resistance. The results show that the ECDP-H fabric has better hand and comfort properties than cotton.
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Kan, Chi Wai, Maggie Hoi Man Leung, and Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit. "An Analysis of Paper Towels Shearing Properties." Applied Mechanics and Materials 848 (July 2016): 166–69. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.848.166.
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In this paper, we collected 12 commercially available paper towels from the local market and their shearing properties were evaluated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). Three properties namely: (i) shear rigidity (G), (ii) shear stress at 0.5º (2HG) and (iii) shear stress at 5º (2HG5) were studied. Experimental results revealed that the shearing properties varied within the products. G was used as the key property for discussing the shearing properties of paper towels. However, in correlating different shearing properties, it was found that 2HG and 2HG5 had strong Pearson correlation. However, no significant statistically relationship between weight and thickness to G was found. This study may provide data for the industry for the improvement of shearing properties of paper towels for local market.
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Tsukada, Masuhiro, Md Majibur Rahman Khan, Tomohiro Miura, Ronald Postle, and Akio Sakaguchi. "Mechanical performance of wool fabrics grafted with methacrylamide and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate by the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric method." Textile Research Journal 83, no. 12 (January 11, 2013): 1242–50. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517512458338.
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Ninpetch, Uraiwan, Masahiro Tsukada, and Amornrat Promboon. "Mechanical Properties of Silk Fabric Degummed with Bromelain." Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 10, no. 3 (September 2015): 155892501501000. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/155892501501000319.
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Degumming is the process of removing the sericin or gum from silk yarn. Removing the gum improves the sheen, color, hand, and texture of the silk. Mai 1 silk yarn from Thai hybrid multivoltine Bombyx mori was degummed with commercial grade bromelain and with sodium carbonate. 96.58% of sericin content was removed from the silk yarn in small scale degumming procedure with 2 g/L bromelain and 91.84 % in large scale degumming with 5 g/L bromelain. Scanning electron micrographs of the silk yarn degummed with enzyme showed neither sign of destruction in its morphology nor surface damage. The surface of the yarn degummed with bromelain was smoother than that of the yarn degummed with sodium carbonate. According to the evaluation of its mechanical properties using Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, the silk fabric degummed with bromelain showed good tensile strength, better response to bending deformation, higher flexibility, smother feel during bending, and softer and better elastic properties during compression.
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Carr, Christopher M. "Investigation of the Effect of Water Repellent Finishes on the Mechanical Properties of Textiles Using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics." Journal of Coated Fabrics 18, no. 2 (October 1988): 106–13. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/152808378801800205.
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Yao, Li Rong, and Joo Yong Kim. "The Microstructure and Mechanical Property of Meta-Aramid Nanofiber Web for High Temperature Filter Media." Advanced Materials Research 175-176 (January 2011): 318–22. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.175-176.318.
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The meta-aramid nanofiber webs were successfully prepared by electrospinning with the solvent system LiCl/DMAc in this paper. The uniform nanofibers were obtained when the concentration of the spinning solution was larger than 9wt%, and the microstructure and physical properties of the nanofiber webs were examined. To date, the webs had a better mechanical property when the concentration of the spinning solution was 11wt%. Whereafter, we mainly investigated the effects of heating temperature on the properties of the mate-aramid nanofiber webs. After heat treatment, the structure and property change of the nanofiber webs were analyzed by means of SEM, XRD, TGA, and the tensile strength was measured by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). The results indicated that there was no significant weight loss and retained a favourable mechanical property when the heating temperature was below 200°C, however, the properties of nanofiber webs would decrease if the heating temperature were increased or the heating time was more prolonged.
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LADISLAV, NAGY, KOLDINSKÁ MARIE, HAVELKA ANTONÍN, and JANDOVÁ SOŇA. "The methodology for evaluation and predicting of clothing comfort for functional apparel." Industria Textila 69, no. 03 (July 1, 2018): 206–11. http://dx.doi.org/10.35530/it.069.03.1316.
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The aim of this study was testing the first layer of clothing. It can be used separately, or together with other layers of textiles in the sandwich structure of clothing. As this layer is in direct contact with the skin, the evaluation does not focus only on its thermo physiological properties, but also on sensory perception of the fabric. The main purpose of this layer is to transport heat and moisture from the skin to surface, or to the other layers. One way of assessing the physiological comfort of the garment is testing garments under defined conditions and standards in a laboratory. For testing, T-shirts made from 100 percent natural fibres, chemical fibres, and also mixed fibres for the comparison were chosen. Experimental work was carried out in the following two steps of laboratory testing: measurement of selected utility properties in the Laboratory of Physiological Comfort, and the measurement degree of Total Hand Value in the Kawabata Evaluation System. For the prediction of clothing comfort and the garment performance quick assessment, a simple equation for the comparison of the selected set of T-shirts was also created.
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Kan, Chi Wai, Maggie Hoi Man Leung, and Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit. "Tensile Properties Analysis of Paper Towels." Applied Mechanics and Materials 848 (July 2016): 162–65. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.848.162.
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In this study, 12 commercially available paper towels were collected from the local market. Their tensile properties were investigated by Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). Four tensile properties namely: (i) extensibility (EMT), (ii) tensile energy (WT), (iii) tensile resilience (RT) and (iv) linearity of WT (LT) were evaluated. Experimental results revealed that the tensile properties varied within the products. EMT was used as the key property for discussing the tensile properties of paper towels. However, when the different tensile properties were correlated, it was found that WT/RT, WT/EMT and RT/EMT had strong Pearson correlation. In addition, there was no significant statistically relationship between weight and thickness to EMT. Based on this study, it can provide some information about the tensile properties of paper towels in local market which may help the industry for further improving the product quality.
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Hussain, Azmat, Yueqi Zhong, Tayyab Naveed, Zhicai Yu, Zhang Xi, and Wu Ge. "A New Approach to Evaluate Fabric Hand Based on Three-Dimensional Drape Model." Autex Research Journal 20, no. 2 (May 13, 2020): 155–67. http://dx.doi.org/10.2478/aut-2019-0011.
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AbstractFabric quality and performance is assessed subjectively by the customer using an important and complex phenomenon of fabric hand. Objectively, it is evaluated with complicated and expensive instruments, such as Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) and Fabric Assurance with Simple Testing (FAST). The present research explores a non-touch objective approach, i.e., three-dimensional (3D) drape model to estimate fabric hand. Fabric hand prediction was testified on different commercial fabrics spanning a wide range of areal weight, thickness, yarn count, and fabric density. Fabric objective ranks based on drape indicators using principal component analysis (PCA) were compared with subjective ranks of fabric hand. Additionally, fabric drape is evaluated three dimensionally and a new drape indicator drape height (DH) is proposed. The cosine similarity results have proved fabric drape as an objective alternate to fabric hand.
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Chassagne, Fanette, Emilie Benoist, Pierre Badel, Reynald Convert, Laurence Schacher, and Jérôme Molimard. "Characterization of Fabric-to-Fabric Friction: Application to Medical Compression Bandages." Autex Research Journal 20, no. 2 (May 13, 2020): 220–27. http://dx.doi.org/10.2478/aut-2019-0050.
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AbstractFabric-to-fabric friction is involved in the action mechanism of medical compression devices such as compression bandages or lumbar belts. To better understand the action of such devices, it is essential to characterize, in their use conditions (mainly pressure and stretch), the frictional properties of the fabrics they are composed of. A characterization method of fabric-to-fabric friction was developed. This method was based on the customization of the fourth instrument of the Kawabata Evaluation System, initially designed for fabric roughness and friction characterization. A friction contactor was developed so that the stretch of the fabric and the applied load can vary to replicate the use conditions. This methodology was implemented to measure the friction coefficient of several medical compression bandages. In the ranges of pressure and bandage stretch investigated in the study, bandage-to-bandage friction coefficient showed very little variation. This simple and reliable method, which was tested for commercially available medical compression bandages, could be used for other medical compression fabrics.
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Kawamura, Atsushi, Chunhong Zhu, Julie Peiffer, KyoungOk Kim, Yi Li, and Masayuki Takatera. "Relationship between the Physical Properties and Hand of Jean Fabric." Autex Research Journal 16, no. 3 (September 1, 2016): 138–45. http://dx.doi.org/10.1515/aut-2015-0043.
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Abstract We investigated the distinctive characteristics of jean fabrics (denim fabrics obtained from jeans) and compared the physical properties and the hand. We used 13 kinds of jean fabric from commercial jeans and 26 other fabric types. The physical properties were measured using the Kawabata evaluation system, and the fabric hand was evaluated by 20 subjects using a semantic differential method. To characterise the hand of jean fabrics compared with other fabrics, we used principal component analysis and obtained three principal components. We found that jean fabrics were characterised by the second principal component, which was affected by feelings of thickness and weight. We further characterised the jean fabrics according to ‘softness & smoothness’ and ‘non-fullness’, depending on country of origin and type of manufacturer. The three principal components were analysed using multiple linear regression to characterise the components according to the physical properties. We explained the hand of fabrics including jean fabrics using its association with physical properties.
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Sisodia, Nidhi, M. S. Parmar, and Saurbh Jain. "Effect of Pre-Treatment on the Smoothness Behaviour of Cotton Fabric." Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 27, no. 5(137) (October 31, 2019): 70–79. http://dx.doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0013.2901.
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Before dyeing, woven cotton fabrics have been passed through different pre-treatments like desizing, scouring, bleaching and mercerising to enhance quality. In every treatment cotton fabric is treated with different chemicals and mechanical processes. After these treatments, the feel of the fabric has been changed. The change in feel or in terms of the hand value of treated fabrics were analysed by determining the bending length, crease recovery angle, SEM, FTIR, surface roughness and smoothness properties. Other physical properties viz. the tear and tensile strength were also evaluated. Fabric surface roughness and smoothness were determined using the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) and digital image processing method. Using MATLAB software, digital image processing techniques were used to evaluate the roughness index. The study revealed that the pretreatment process alters the fabric surface. Statistical analysis (ANOVA) was carried out using SPSS software in order to establish the relationship between the pre-treatment process effect on the bending length, smoothness and crease recovery angle.
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Chen, Qing, Xuhong Miao, Haiwen Mao, Pibo Ma, and Gaoming Jiang. "The Comfort Properties of Two Differential-Shrinkage Polyester Warp Knitted Fabrics." Autex Research Journal 16, no. 2 (June 1, 2016): 90–99. http://dx.doi.org/10.1515/aut-2015-0034.
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AbstractSingle-layered warp knitted fabrics were produced by the 60D/36F (containing 36 filaments) polyester yarn with differential shrinkage (DS) property in this study. Due to the differential shrinkage property, the fabric becomes curly and bulkier, simulating cotton fabric in terms of its appearance and fabric handle. The performance and appearance of these DS polyester warp knitted fabrics were evaluated objectively and subjectively. The testing results demonstrated that the DS polyester warp knitted fabric had better abrasion property, worse pilling resistance due to the mechanical property of polyester yarn when compared with 100% cotton warp knitted fabric. Meanwhile, lower water vapour permeability and air resistance were found for DS polyester warp knitted fabric resulting from the dense structure of yarn shrinkage after heat-moisture treatment. Besides, the fabric handle was evaluated by Kawabata evaluation system and subject to trial under dry and wet fabric condition. DS polyester warp knitted fabrics provide better recovery under low stress mechanical pressure. The subjective evaluation result shows that the warp knitted fabrics made of DS polyester had similar handle against cotton warp knitted fabric in terms of prickle, smooth, comfort and dry feeling in both dry and wet testing conditions.
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Guo, Mengna, Victor E. Kuzmichev, and Dominique C. Adolphe. "Human-Friendly Design of Virtual System “female Body-dress”." Autex Research Journal 15, no. 1 (March 1, 2015): 19–29. http://dx.doi.org/10.2478/aut-2014-0033.
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Abstract Recently, the development efforts focused on the computer simulation of garments, which depend on the material's physico-mechanical properties. It intends to achieve the best possible and realistic simulations of garments, which are available for pressure prediction. In this manner, 3D garment virtual technology improvements allow the visualization of pressure areas with values where the fabric might be too tight against the body. Although the purposes of simulation graphics were acceptable, the accuracy for apparel shaping is not enough to meet the needs of Virtual Prototyping and CAD utilization especially while the fabric properties system design was inadequate. Moreover, the existing pressure simulation is intended to simply predict the pressure index or how the textile deformation extend, which are deficient in real human's perception. In this research, the 3D shapes belonging to typical female bodies and dresses made of different fabrics were obtained by 3D body scanners (ScanWorX and TELMAT). Through reconstruction for the 3D torso shapes, the volumetric eases between body and dress were calculated by means of a software Rhinoceros. A new approach for the selection of textile properties based on the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) was proposed to investigate its relations with dress shaping and pressure comfort. Finally, fabric properties tested by the KES-F system were compared with volumetric eases, objective pressure indexes and subjective comfort scores to reveal the relations how the fabric properties have impacts on dress outside shaping and inside pressure comfort of a female body. In this manner, the human-friendly CAD instead of mechanical approach existing before has been presented as a new approach to promote the construction of a realistic system for the 3D simulation optimization.
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Huang, Liang Xian, Xi Ya Zhang, and Qiu Feng An. "Synthesis，Film Morphology and Performance on Fabrics of a Novel Amino Functional Polysiloxane." Advanced Materials Research 239-242 (May 2011): 2981–85. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.239-242.2981.
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A novel polysiloxane bearing (N,N)-dimethyl-γ-aminopropyl-γ-aminopropyl side groups(ASO-2) was synthesized by copolymerization of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane with (N,N)-dimethyl-γ-aminopropyl-γ-aminopropyl methyl dimethoxysilane and hexamethyldisiloxane. Chemical structure, film morphology and the softening fabric property of ASO-2 were characterized and investigated by IR, 1H-NMR, SEM, atomic force microscope(AFM) and Kawabata evaluation system(KES).The experiment results indicate that ASO-2 can form a hydrophobic film on both the cotton fiber and silicon wafer surface. The ASO-2 film relatively exhibits a non-homogeneous structure and uneven morphology in its AFM images. Consequently, in 2 μm2 scanning field, the root mean square roughness of ASO-2 film reaches to 0.226 nm, which is 2.69 times rougher as compared with that of N-β-aminoethyl-γ-aminopropyl polysiloxane (ASO-1) film. Application experiments indicate though the tactile of ASO-2 imparted on 100% cotton is somewhat rougher than that of ASO-1, the whiteness and wettability of the cotton treated by ASO-2 are better than those by ASO-1.
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Ghani, Suzaini A., and Yahya Mohamad Faizul. "Seam Puckering: Analysis and Modeling with Structural Equation Modeling." Advanced Materials Research 812 (September 2013): 157–62. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.812.157.
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Research on parameters influencing seam pucker has been quite intensive in the past decade. The difficulties associated with accurate predictions of the interaction between sewing parameters and fabrics properties. Traditional approach of matching variety of sewing parameters with unlimited fabric properties through personal experience has been a challenge in the apparel industry which increased the cost of production due to reprocess or rejection. Hence, in the present study, an alternative mathematical modeling known as Structural Equation Modeling (SEM) was proposed to predict the seam puckering grading together with the usage of high end instrumentation for fabric known as Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-F). The KES-F determined 16 parameters related to handle properties of a fabric and SEM produced prediction equation based on a few selected important parameters. The results show that equation by SEM can be used to predict the level of seam puckering of different categories of fabric weights. Good comparisons with the experimental and previous studies demonstrate the ability of the model to be used as a predictive tool for textile materials particularly for seam puckering.
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Najar, Saeed Shaikhzadeh, Xungai Wang, and Maryam Naebe. "The effect of plasma treatment and tightness factor on the low-stress mechanical properties of single jersey knitted wool fabrics." Textile Research Journal 88, no. 5 (December 6, 2016): 499–509. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517516681962.
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The effects of atmospheric pressure plasma treatment and the tightness factor on the low-stress mechanical properties of weft-knitted wool fabrics were evaluated using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F). The statistical analysis showed that the plasma treatment and the tightness factor had significant effects on the fabric low-stress mechanical properties ( p-value < 0.05). Plasma-treated fabrics showed significantly higher bending and shear rigidity and hysteresis, compression energy, thickness, compressibility, surface friction and lower compression resilience and geometrical roughness values compared with untreated fabrics. An increase in the fabric tightness factor significantly increased fabric thickness, bending and shear rigidity and hysteresis, and decreased tensile extensibility and geometrical roughness. The relationship between primary handle attributes evaluated by Wool HandleMeter and KES-F mechanical properties was also investigated. The results confirmed a highly linear correlation between these two sets of data, where rough/smooth and hard/soft attributes evaluated by the Wool HandleMeter had the highest correlation with bending rigidity, shear properties and bending hysteresis, as measured by the KES-F.
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Chen, Pau-Lin, Roger L. Barker, Gary W. Smith, and Barbara Scruggs. "Handle of Weft Knit Fabrics." Textile Research Journal 62, no. 4 (April 1992): 200–211. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/004051759206200404.
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Two groups of weft-knitted fabrics, single and double knits, were selected to represent typical summer T-shirts and winter sportswear such as sweaters and other knit tops. Two kinds of analyses were performed: subjective overall handle and primary sensory factors were evaluated using a 99 point polar-word scale, and physical and thermal properties were characterized using the Kawabata evaluation system. Regression analysis was used to relate subjective and objective measurements. The handle of single knits was strongly related to the perception of softness and lightness; the handle of double knits was influenced by the perception of slickness and tightness. Surface friction and weight were associated with the hand ranking of single knits. Fabric surface roughness and bending hysteresis were physical properties that correlated with the hand ranking for double knits. The handle of plain knit loop structures was rated better than that of tuck-loop knits. For summer T-shirt material, single jersey was the preferred choice; for winter sportswear, interlock knits were preferred to other double knits.
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Abdul Ghani, Suzaini, and Hugh Gong. "Seam Quality: Experimental and Modelling Works using the Structural Equation Methodology." Scientific Research Journal 7, no. 1 (June 30, 2010): 13. http://dx.doi.org/10.24191/srj.v7i1.5008.
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Seam quality in terms ofappearance and strength were investigatedfor very light weight fabrics (weight less than 80 g m"). Seams were constructed with different sewing parameters, which included types ofthread, stitch densities and needle size. Before constructing the seam for appearance and strength evaluation the mechanical properties of all fabrics were determined. The mechanical properties of 48 fabrics were determined using the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-F), the Fabric Assurance Simple Test (FAST) and an Instron Tensile Tester. Evaluation ofseam quality was performed with respect to all the sewingparameters and the seams were ranked accordingly. The same evaluation ranking for seam appearance and strength was used for further analysis using Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) under AMOS. SEM was used to establish the relationship between seam quality with respect to appearance andstrength, andfabric mechanical properties. SEM was adopted to perform confirmative analysis to identify the fabrics mechanical properties that influence seam quality. From the experimental work, it was established that seams constructed with 100 % spun polyester thread with a ticket number of75gave the best ranking in terms ofseam strength. This threadperformedat optimum values when used with 6.5 stitches per centimetre (spcm) with a Metric needle size (Nm) of 90. For seam appearance, 100 % spun polyester with a ticket number of120 and Metric needle size of80 gave the best ranking. SEM established that extensibility and shear were the main fabric mechanical properties that determine seam quality ofvery light weight fabrics.
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Dalal, Mohamed, Jean-Yves Drean, and Jean-François Osselin. "Geometrical Modeling of Woven Fabrics Weavability-Limit New Relationships." Autex Research Journal 17, no. 1 (March 1, 2017): 73–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.1515/aut-2015-0056.
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Abstract The weavability limit and tightness for 2D and 3D woven fabrics is an important factor and depends on many geometric parameters. Based on a comprehensive review of the literature on textile fabric construction and property, and related research on fabric geometry, a study of the weavability limit and tightness relationships of 2D and 3D woven fabrics was undertaken. Experiments were conducted on a representative number of polyester and cotton woven fabrics which have been woven in our workshop, using three machines endowed with different insertion systems (rapier, projectiles and air jet). Afterwards, these woven fabrics have been analyzed in the laboratory to determine their physical and mechanical characteristics using air permeability-meter and KES-F KAWABATA Evaluation System for Fabrics. In this study, the current Booten’s weavability limit and tightness relationships based on Ashenhurst’s, Peirce’s, Love’s, Russell’s, Galuszynskl’s theory and maximum-weavability is reviewed and modified as new relationships to expand their use to general cases (2D and 3D woven fabrics, all fiber materiel, all yarns etc…). The theoretical relationships were examined and found to agree with experimental results. It was concluded that the weavability limit and tightness relationships are useful tools for weavers in predicting whether a proposed fabric construction was weavable and also in predicting and explaining their physical and mechanical properties.
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Abdul Ghani, Suzaini, and Hugh Gong. "Seam Quality: Experimental and Modelling Works using the Structural Equation Methodology." Scientific Research Journal 7, no. 1 (June 1, 2010): 13. http://dx.doi.org/10.24191/srj.v7i1.9422.
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Seam quality in terms of appearance and strength were investigated for very light weight fabrics (weight less than 80 g m-1;. Seams were constructed with different sewing parameters, which included types of thread, stitch densities and needle size. Before constructing the seam for appearance and strength evaluation the mechanical properties of all fabrics were determined. The mechanical properties of 48 fabrics were determined using the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-F), the Fabric Assurance Simple Test (FAST) and an lnstron Tensile Tester. Evaluation of seam quality was performed with respect to all the sewing parameters and the seams were ranked accordingly. The same evaluation ranking for seam appearance and strength was used for further analysis using Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) under AMOS. SEM was used to establish the relationship between seam quality with respect to appearance and strength, and fabric mechanical properties. SEM was adopted to perform confirmative analysis to identify the fabrics mechanical properties that influence seam quality. From the experimental work, it was established that seams constructed with I 00 % spun polyester thread with a ticket number of 75 gave the best ranking in terms of seam strength. This thread performed at optimum values when used with 6.5 stitches per centimetre (spcm) with a Metric needle size (Nm) of 90. For seam appearance, I 00 % spun polyester with a ticket number of 120 and Metric needle size of 80 gave the best ranking. SEM established that extensibility and shear were the main fabric mechanical properties that determine seam quality of very light weight fabrics.
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Bartkowiak, Grażyna, Iwona Frydrych, Agnieszka Komisarczyk, and Agnieszka Greszta. "Fabric Selection for the Reference Clothing Destined for Ergonomics Test of Protective Clothing—Sensorial Comfort Point of View." Autex Research Journal 17, no. 4 (December 20, 2017): 303–12. http://dx.doi.org/10.1515/aut-2016-0033.
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Abstract The main purpose of this study is the selection of a proper fabric for the reference clothing for ergonomic tests of protective clothing. For research, seven fabric of different raw material content and different structure were chosen. We studied the handle of fabrics produced from blend of polyester/cotton and polyester/Tencel, which were designated by letters from A to G. The assessment of handle of the fabric was performed based on the mechanical properties of fabrics using Kawabata evaluation system (KES-system). It was proven that one of the tested fabrics (F) made of polyester and cotton fibers (85% PES / 15% cotton) with the reinforced twill weave is characterized by the highest total hand value (THV).The high THV results from the low value of koshi (stiffness) and the highest value of numeri (smoothness) and fukurami (fullness). However, in terms of physiological comfort, the lower value of fukurami is more preferred. It turned out that the fabric with the higher value of fukurami (including fabric F) is characterized by the lower air permeability and higher water vapor resistance. At the end, we decided that the reference clothing will be made of cotton/polyester fabric G with the lowest mass per square meter because of the very good physiological comfort parameters and the satisfactory sensorial comfort parameters.
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Rathinamoorthy, R., K. Gayathri Shree, R. Vaijayanthi, M. Brindha, and A. Narmatha. "Effect of rinse cycle softener treatment on the low-stress mechanical properties of cotton-woven fabric." Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 24, no. 3 (May 20, 2020): 199–210. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/rjta-10-2019-0053.
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Purpose The application of rinse cycle softener after the household laundry process has become more common in recent times. This study aims to understand the effect of repeated rinse cycle softener treatment on the mechanical and frictional properties of the cotton fabric. Design/methodology/approach Cotton-woven fabric is treated with commercial rinse cycle softener repeatedly for 15 times. After treatment, the fabric was evaluated for the changes in mechanical properties using the Kawabata evaluation system. Findings The results of this study revealed that the softener treatment reduces the tensile properties (41.25%) and increases the overall extensibility of the fabric up to 20.89%. The shear (34.57%) and bending rigidity of the treated fabric are reduced considerably than the untreated fabric (58.02%). The increment in the fabric softness and fluffiness was confirmed with the increment in the compression and the difference between the initial and final thickness at maximum pressure. Statistical significance (p < 0.05) is noted only in the case of bending and surface friction properties (dynamic friction). Originality/value The usage of rinse cycle softeners in the household laundry has a significant influence on the comfort characteristics of the cotton-woven fabric. Repeated usage of rinse cycle softener increased the fabric softness and fluffiness of the fabric and also reduced the tensile properties significantly.
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Cheng, Zhe, Victor Kuzmichev, and Dominique Adolphe. "A digital replica of male compression underwear." Textile Research Journal 90, no. 7-8 (October 22, 2019): 877–95. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517519883058.
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With the development of society and increasing demands, the design of male underwear should conform to human ergonomics. However, some special delicate aspects related to morphological features of the male body need to use computer technologies for generating a digital replica of real bodies, with textile materials instead of real objects from the perspective of satisfying increasing needs. This article aims to apply three-dimensional (3D) simulation technology in compression clothes design. We have proposed the method of material precision simulation, body avatar establishment, and virtual underwear design. In this study, multiple 3D software to establish avatars of male bodies with different morphological features are used first. Secondly, the conversion of the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics results in a digital library of knitted materials to be explored, which are mainly based on elastic characteristics and compression performances. Then, we conducted a series of try-on tests with average size avatars, which are created using 3D scanning technology, and evaluated the pressure and comfort using a new method we recommended. Finally, the results of the virtual and actual tests are compared. All digital replicas achieve the same results as the real ones. This study can promote the application of 3D simulation technology in male compression underwear design by operating a digital replica instead of real objects.
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Gazzah, Mouna, Boubaker Jaouachi, Laurence Schacher, Dominique Charles Adolphe, and Faouzi Sakli. "Study of the influential inputs on the bagged denim fabric behaviors using the principal component analysis method." International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 27, no. 6 (November 2, 2015): 922–39. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-10-2014-0123.
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Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability. Hence, it attempts to carry out the significant inputs and outputs that have an influence on the bagging behaviors using the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the Kawabata Evaluation System parameters such as the frictional characteristics, the bending, compression, tensile and shear parameters are investigated to propose a model highlighting and explaining their impacts on the different bagging properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their bagging properties using Taguchi experimental design. The linear regressive models prove the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings. Design/methodology/approach – To investigate the mechanical properties and their contributions on the bagging characteristics, some denim fabrics were collected and measured thanks to the Kawabata evaluation systems (KES-FB1, KES-FB2, KES-FB3 and KES-FB4). These bagging properties were further analyzed applying the method of PCA to acquire factor patterns that indicate the most important fabric properties for characterizing the bagging behaviors of different studied denim fabric samples. An experimental design type Taguchi was, hence, applied to improve the results. Regarding the obtained results, it may be concluded that the PCA method remained a powerful and flawless technique to select the main influential inputs and significant outputs, able to define objectively the bagging phenomenon and which should be considered from the next researches. Findings – According to the results, there are good relationships between the Kawabata input parameters and the analyzed bagging properties of studied denim fabrics. Indeed, thanks to the PCA, it is probably easy to reduce the number of the influent parameters for three reasons. First, applying this technique of selection can help to select objectively the most influential inputs which affect enormously the bagged fabrics. Second, knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of denim fabric bagging seems fruitful and can undoubtedly help researchers explain widely this complex phenomenon. Third, regarding the findings mentioned, it seems that the prevention of this aesthetic phenomenon appearing in some specific zones of denim fabrics will be more and more accurate. Practical implications – This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. Undoubtedly, the denim garments remained the largely used and consumed, hence, this particularity proves the necessity to study it in order to evaluate the bagging phenomenon which occurs as function of number of uses. Although it is fashionable to have bagging, the denim fabric remains, in contrast with the worsted ones, the most popular fabric to produce garments. Moreover, regarding this characteristic, the large uses and the acceptable value of denim fabrics, their aesthetic appearance behavior due to bagging phenomenon can be analyzed accurately because compared to worsted fabrics, they have a high value and the repetitive tests to investigate widely bagged zones may fall the industrial. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. This can help understanding why residual bagging behavior remained after garment uses due to the internal stress and excessive extensions. Regarding the selected influential inputs and outputs relative to bagging behaviors, there are some practical implications that have an impact on the industrial and researchers to study objectively the occurrence of this aesthetic phenomenon. Indeed, this study discusses the significance of the overall inputs; their contributions on the denim fabric bagged zones aims to prevent their ability to appear after uses. Moreover, the results obtained regarding the fabric mechanical properties can be useful to fabric and garment producers, designers and consumers in specifying and categorizing denim fabric products, insuring more denim cloth use and controlling fabric value. For applications where the subjective view of the consumer is of primary importance, the KES-FB system yields data that can be used for evaluating fabric properties objectively and prejudge the consumer satisfaction in viewpoint of the bagging ability. Therefore, this study shows that by measuring shear, tensile and frictional parameters of KES-FB, it may be possible to evaluate bagging properties. However, it highlights the importance and the significance of some inputs considered influential or the contrast (non-significant) in other researches. Originality/value – This work presents the first study analyzing the bagged denim fabric applying the PCA technique to remove the all input parameters which are not significant. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the mechanical fabric properties (tensile, shear and frictional stresses) and the bagging properties behavior. To improve these obtained relationships, for the first time, the regression technique and experimental design type Taguchi analysis were both applied. Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let researchers and industrials investigate the most influential inputs only which have a bearing on the bagging phenomenon.
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Atalie, Desalegn, and Gideon Kipchirchir Rotich. "Impact of cotton parameters on sensorial comfort of woven fabrics." Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 24, no. 3 (July 13, 2020): 281–302. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/rjta-01-2020-0004.
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Purpose For cloths having direct contact with the skin, comfort properties are a priority than the physical and mechanical properties. Innerwear clothes should induce pleasant feelings because they have a direct influence on human psychological satisfaction, health and work efficiency. The purpose of this study is to investigate the impact of cotton fiber parameters on the sensorial comfort of woven fabrics. Design/methodology/approach Four types of cotton fiber with different fineness, mean length, uniformity index, short fiber content, strength and elongation were used to develop yarns used to weave fabric samples. Kawabata evaluation system (KES) was used to analyze the fabrics’ sensorial comfort. Findings Results showed that cotton fiber parameters have a significant effect on surface friction and roughness properties. Low stress tensile, tensile resilience and tensile strain properties were affected by fiber micronaire, mean length, uniformity index, short fiber content, fiber strength and elongation. However, fabric shear, bending and compression properties were least dependent on fiber parameters. The correlation of the dependent variable and the independent variable was also statistically analyzed and reported. From the results, it was shown that cotton fiber parameters play a significant role in woven fabrics’ sensorial comfort. Originality/value The cloths that are in contact with the skin can be developed using the results of these studies to feel pleasant. This will, in turn, have a direct effect on the customer's psychological satisfaction, health and work performance.
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Periyasamy, Siddhan, Krishna Prasad G, Raja ASM, and Prashant G. Patil. "Submicron surface roughening of aliphatic polyamide 6,6 fabric through low temperature plasma and its effect on interfacial bonding in rubber composite." Journal of Industrial Textiles 47, no. 8 (July 12, 2017): 2029–49. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/1528083717720202.
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The present study aims to produce submicron surface roughening of aliphatic polyamide 6,6 (nylon 6,6) fabric using dielectric barrier discharge-based atmospheric low temperature plasma for improving the adhesion bonding with rubber. The plasma treatment was done in the time ranging from 15 s to 300 s. Formation of surface roughness on the fabric due to plasma treatment and the associated chemical changes were studied through high-resolution scanning electron microscope, geometrical surface roughness by Kawabata evaluation system surface tester, contact angle measurements and Fourier transform infrared in Attenuated total reflectance mode. Scanning electron microscope micrographs revealed the presence of submicron roughness on the nylon 6,6 fibre surface with pores of around 100 nm (0.1 µm) for the optimum treatment time of 180 s above which the pore merging effect dominated resulting in the net low surface roughness. Geometrical roughness (SMD) results were also well in agreement with the scanning electron microscope results for the roughening and the optimum effect of the plasma treatment. The control and plasma treated nylon 6,6 samples were used as reinforcements for rubber composite. The peel strength of the rubber composite, which is a measure of interfacial bonding, increased to 150% as the maximum for the optimum plasma treatment time of 180 s. Intense rubber deposits over the 180 s plasma treated samples were observed while only a few deposits of rubber were observed on the control fabric when their interfaces were examined through scanning electron microscope after peeling test.
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Yim, Ka-yan, and Chi-wai Kan. "A statistical analysis of low-stress mechanical properties of warp-knitted fabrics." Textile Research Journal 88, no. 4 (December 12, 2016): 467–79. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517516681963.
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Fabric hand is an indispensable characteristic for the selection of fabric and product development and the buying consideration for manufacturers and consumers. However, there is little comprehensive work on the hand feel property of warp-knitted fabrics due to the mainstream natural fibers (cotton, wool and silk) and other fabric structures (woven, weft-knitted and nonwoven). The increasing potential for the wide variety of applications and development of warp-knitted fabrics is not only because its fabric hand gives better determination for fabric marketing, but also because it provides extensive scope for fabric performance and appearance. This paper reports an experimental study on the integrated fabric hand behavior of a series of warp-knitted fabrics made for various apparel applications, such as sportswear, lingerie and leisure wear. These 105 fabrics were produced by varying different physical parameters, including fabric weight and fabric thickness. The Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-F) was employed to obtain the fabric hand properties (primary hand value and total hand value) related with stiffness, smoothness and softness. All low-stress mechanical properties and fabric hand values from the testing results were used to verify the applicability of the KES-F on warp-knitted fabrics and to analyze the relationships of fabric parameters and hand characteristics. The results indicate that the KES-F is an appropriate tool to measure the hand attributes of warp-knitted samples, and moderate correlations between physical properties and mechanical behavior were found.
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Halász, Marianna, Péter Tamás, József Gräff, and Lajos Szabó. "Computer Aided Measuring of Textile-Mechanical Parameters." Materials Science Forum 589 (June 2008): 311–16. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/msf.589.311.
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A new equipment for measuring the draping characteristics of static cloth is presented in the paper. In contrast with Kawabata Evaluation System 3D geometrical data of the sample are captured from photo images. Based on a mathematical reconstruction of geometry, and drape coefficients and mechanical parameters are evaluated upon the geometrical model. The computer controlled equipment moves a round table positioned in the centre providing the natural pleating of fabric for the measuring. The core part of the equipment is a computer moved frame. The sample is scanned by laser-beams. Lasers light the cross section curves of the sample on different levels. There are four cameras on the frame taking the pictures of cross section curves in different levels. 3D geometry is reconstructed upon the pictures. A mass, spring and damping element system is the basis of the cloth simulator. Springs are assumed to be linear, while damps are proportional to the velocity. The physics engine running the simulator calculates vertex positions at a time based on interaction forces with neighbouring vertices, including stretch, bend and shear forces. Collision of the cloth model with the model of the underlying object is performed and handled in each time step. To evaluate the influence of the individual parameters, a series of simulations was performed. For the real cloth samples, a range of cross-section curves is captured, digitalized and interpolated by Fourier series. The same Fourier coefficients are determined for the cloth model as a function of simulation parameters. The actual simulation parameters are defined by the minimum of the difference between the modelled and the measured geometry.
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Yokura, Hiroko, and Sachiko Sukigara. "Silhouette and handle design of cotton crepe fabrics for dresses." International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 32, no. 1 (June 11, 2019): 37–47. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-06-2018-0078.
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Purpose For over a century, traditional Japanese cotton crepe fabrics have been popular for men’s underwear in the humid summer. Now, consumer demand is for crepe fabrics that are more attractive, reflecting a shift in use from underwear to women’s dresses. The purpose of this paper is to clarify how the structures of the crepe and its constituent yarns affect the physical properties, handle and silhouette formability of crepe fabrics for dresses. Design/methodology/approach Three plain-weave gray fabrics were finished by four different processes to change their crepe structures. The mechanical and surface properties of the fabrics were measured using the Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics. The primary hand values and silhouette formability of the fabrics were calculated using conversion equations based on the physical properties. The handle of the crepe fabrics and the aesthetic appearance of flared collars made of them were assessed by female students using the semantic differential method. Findings Comparing the fabrics made from the same gray fabric, the piqué crepe fabrics showed larger Hari (anti-drape) and Shari (crispness) than the others. The subjective hand value of softness was closely related to fabric thickness. The assessors preferred the fine piqué crepe fabrics over the wide piqué fabrics regarding both the tactile feeling of the fabrics and the aesthetic appearance of the flared collars. The attractiveness of the flared collars was dominated by the shear stiffness of the fabrics. Originality/value The fine piqué crepe fabric made from fine yarns produced a more preferable handle. The fine piqué fabric made from thicker yarns produced flared collars with silhouettes that are more attractive. This indicates that the fine piqué structure is a positive feature that makes the fabric suitable for various types of dresses.
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Pan, N., K. C. Yen, S. J. Zhao, and S. R. Yang. "A New Approach to the Objective Evaluation of Fabric Handle from Mechanical Properties." Textile Research Journal 58, no. 9 (September 1988): 531–37. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/004051758805800907.
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The subject of fabric primary handle evaluation is discussed in this paper. Some problems existing in Kawabata's system for primary hand values are revealed, which are considered inevitable in an approach involving subjective sensory assessment. Based on the same theory introduced in Part I, a new proposal for the objective evaluation of primary handle is presented by which the necessary and sufficient number of primary handle terms and the corresponding primary handle values are obtained. The methods and results of determining and testing the physical meanings of these primary handle terms are also provided.