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1

Carvalho, Helena, Susana Garrido Azevedo, Susana Duarte, and V. Cruz-Machado. "Green and Lean Paradigms Influence on Sustainable Business Development of Manufacturing Supply Chains." International Journal of Green Computing 2, no. 2 (July 2011): 45–62. http://dx.doi.org/10.4018/jgc.2011070103.

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Green and lean paradigms have been adopted in a supply chain management context, but nearly always separately and with little understanding of their influence on supply chain performance and sustainable business development. This paper proposes a theoretical framework about the influence of green and lean practices on sustainable business development in a supply chain context. Green and lean upstream supply chain practices, supply chain attributes and a performance measurement system, based on the balanced scorecard, are suggested. An exploratory case study was conducted at a Portuguese automotive supply chain to test qualitatively the validity of the proposed theoretical framework.
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ESMAEEL, RAGHED IBRAHIM, Inda Sukati, and Noriza Mohd Jamal. "The Moderating Role of Advance Manufacturing Technology (AMT) on the Relationship between LARG- Supply Chain and Supply Chain Performance." Asian Social Science 11, no. 28 (November 22, 2015): 37. http://dx.doi.org/10.5539/ass.v11n28p37.

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<p>Supply-chain management (SCM) considers one of the essential parts in international marketplaces. Supply-chain management comprises a number of paradigms such as Lean, Agile, Resilient, and Green (LARG). This research explains that advanced manufacturing technology (AMT) has a significant effect on the relationship between LARG-supply chain, which comprise (lean, agile, resilient, and green) with supply chain performance.The following study illustrates the correlation between each variable like (lean, agile, resilient, and green) LARG-supply chain with supply chain performance, next to an investigated suitable theory.This study utilizes several library entrances toward assembly knowledge.This study suggests the framework of research during its determination each variable this study,which comprise independent variable, moderator, and dependent variables.</p><p> </p>
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Firmansyah, Muhammad Andika, and Siti Maemunah. "Lean Management and Green Supply Chain Management Implementation on the Manufacturing and Logistics Industry at an Indonesia." Business and Entrepreneurial Review 21, no. 1 (May 27, 2021): 11. http://dx.doi.org/10.25105/ber.v21i1.9141.

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<p><em>This research is on the manufacturing and logistics industry in Indonesia in improving environmental performance. This study aims to implementation of lean management and green supply chain management to environmental performance. The methodology used in this study is primary data, 150 respondents from logistics professionals. This study uses SEM-PLS. The results showed that lean management had no significant effect on environmental performance. The implications of this study are focused on geography and small samples. Green supply chain management is oriented towards the environment in making supply chain decisions to improve environmental performance. </em></p>
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Gorane, S. J., and Ravi Kant. "Supply chain practices." Benchmarking: An International Journal 23, no. 5 (July 4, 2016): 1076–110. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/bij-06-2014-0059.

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Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate the current level of supply chain practices (SCPs) in Indian manufacturing organizations. Design/methodology/approach – The 15 SCPs are identified based on the literature support and opinion of industry experts and academia, and data were collected from 292 organizations. Data were analyzed using the statistical package for the social science software to see the current level/penetration of SCPs in Indian manufacturing organizations. Findings – The practices, namely, organizational culture, customer relationship, information and communication technology, benchmarking and performance measurement, lean manufacturing, agile manufacturing, supplier relationship are highly penetrated practices in Indian manufacturing organizations. The practices, namely, outsourcing, information sharing, just in time manufacturing, green supply chain management are moderately penetrated practices, while the practices, namely, reverse logistics, postponement, vendor managed inventory, radio frequency are least penetrated practices in Indian manufacturing organizations. Research limitations/implications – Further study can be extended to see the of penetration practices applicable to service and agriculture sectors. Practical implications – The result of this paper will enable the organizations to identify and direct their focus on the areas that requires improvement. Also, the organizations will become more aware of the SCPs that will help in boosting up their performance and competitiveness and indirectly boost the growth and contribute to India’s economic development. Originality/value – This is the first kind of study which checked the level of selected SCPs in Indian manufacturing organizations.
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Sawhney, Rapinder, Pamuk Teparakul, Aruna Bagchi, and Xueping Li. "En-Lean: a framework to align lean and green manufacturing in the metal cutting supply chain." International Journal of Enterprise Network Management 1, no. 3 (2007): 238. http://dx.doi.org/10.1504/ijenm.2007.012757.

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Nursyam Suhardini, Prasis, Sudjatno Sudjatno, and Djumilah Hadiwidjojo. "LEAN AND GREEN SUPPLY CHAIN MANAGEMENT IN IMPROVING OPERATIONAL PERFORMANCE IN SUGAR INDUSTRY." Jurnal Aplikasi Manajemen 19, no. 1 (March 1, 2021): 198–206. http://dx.doi.org/10.21776/ub.jam.2021.019.01.18.

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The purpose of this study is to understand supply chain management practices, Lean & Green management, and the integration of Lean & Green Supply Chain Management in PG. Krebet Baru - PG. Rajawali I in improving operational performance in supplier and manufacturing chains. The method used is case study qualitative research through interviews, observation, documentation, document review & corporate websites that produce data analysis. The results of this research data analysis produced the first proposition related to supply chain management practices, namely coordination in the flow of material, information, and finance that is being increased by PG Krebet efforts in maintaining better cooperative relations with farmer groups as suppliers. The second proposition relates to lean management practices, namely the efficiency of human resources and natural resources, reduction of lead time, and reduction of inventory is an activity that can increase added value to the company. The third proposition is related to green management practices, namely environmentally-friendly innovation in the operating system is a strategy to improve the application of environmental management. The synergy between the practice of lean and green supply chain in improving operational performance also results in a fourth proposition, namely the commitment of suppliers (farmer groups) to PG. Krebet will improve company efficiency and environmental performance which may improve product quality and flexibility and reduce costs. Suggestions for further research, which in this case study, can be continued in the entire supply chain from suppliers to consumers to better understand lean and green management practices in all sugar industry supply chain members.
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Dubey, Rameshwar, and Sadia Samar Ali. "Exploring antecedents of extended supply chain performance measures." Benchmarking: An International Journal 22, no. 5 (July 6, 2015): 752–72. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/bij-04-2013-0040.

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Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to explore the antecedents of Indian firms practicing green manufacturing practices and their impact on extended supply chain performance. Design/methodology/approach – In this paper the authors have adopted systematic literature review (SLR) to derive research objectives and questions. In order to answer research questions the authors have proposed a theoretical framework and derived research hypotheses. The authors identified constructs and items through extant literatures and developed a structured questionnaire which was pretested before using for final survey. The data were collected in two phases and also performed wave analysis to check non-response bias to avoid any significant impact of non-response bias on statistical analysis. The data has been used to conduct exploratory factor analysis using varimax rotation which reduces variables into five parsimonious and orthogonal factors. The factor analysis output was further used as an input of regression analysis. Findings – The factor analysis output has further validated the findings from literature review. The factor analysis output suggests that total quality management (TQM), supplier relationship management (SRM), R & D and technology and lean manufacturing practices are important determinants of Indian firms practicing green manufacturing practices which impact extended supply chain performance. The regression analysis output has further established that TQM and R & D and technology are strong determinants of extended supply chain performance. However, present study does not support SRM and lean manufacturing practices from respondent’s perspective. However, it further needs to be explored. Research limitations/implications – The present study is limited to medium-sized manufacturing firms. Second, the conclusive model explains only 31.9 percent of the total extended supply chain performance. The study provides an insight to managers that those companies which have implemented TQM and green technology have realized superior performance in comparison to those which have not successfully implemented. Originality/value – The present study is toward understanding Indian green manufacturing practices.
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Huo, Baofeng, Minhao Gu, and Zhiqiang Wang. "Green or lean? A supply chain approach to sustainable performance." Journal of Cleaner Production 216 (April 2019): 152–66. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.01.141.

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9

Kainuma, Yasutaka, and Nobuhiko Tawara. "A multiple attribute utility theory approach to lean and green supply chain management." International Journal of Production Economics 101, no. 1 (May 2006): 99–108. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2005.05.010.

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10

Garza-Reyes, Jose Arturo, Mingyang Yu, Vikas Kumar, and Arvind Upadhyay. "Total quality environmental management: adoption status in the Chinese manufacturing sector." TQM Journal 30, no. 1 (January 8, 2018): 2–19. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/tqm-05-2017-0052.

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Purpose To address the critical sustainability challenges currently faced by China, manufacturers in this country have committed to improve their environmental performance. To support this commitment, evidence suggests that Chinese manufacturers have mainly turned to the implementation of environmental management approaches such as ISO 14001, cleaner production, green supply chain management, circular economy and green lean. However, the adoption of other approaches such as total quality environmental management (TQEM) by Chinese manufacturers is less clear. The purpose of this paper is to fill this gap by providing light into fundamental issues regarding the implementation of TQEM in the manufacturing sector of China. Design/methodology/approach A survey-based exploratory study was conducted based on 119 Chinese manufacturing companies, and the data obtained were analysed using a combination of descriptive and inferential statistics. Findings The results revealed that in general, there is less awareness of TQEM in the Chinese manufacturing sector than other environmental and quality/operations improvement approaches such as green supply chain management, reverse logistics, ISO 9000, Six Sigma and lean Six Sigma. Thus, its degree of implementation is also lower than these approaches as well as ISO 14001. The results also indicate that although a company’s size is not associated with the implementation of TQEM, it is mainly large organisations and those that have adopted TQM those which will be mainly aware and have implemented TQEM. The study also reveals the drivers, results and challenges of TQEM implementation. Originality/value The paper extends the currently limited knowledge on TQEM, and its results are beneficial for managers who aim at effectively adopting TQEM to simultaneously improve the environmental, operational and financial performance of their organisations. The paper can also motivate organisations not currently embarked on the “green wagon” to contemplate the benefits that implementing TQEM, or any other environmental management approach, may bring to their operations and business.
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11

Ruiz-Benitez, Rocio, Cristina López, and Juan C. Real. "Environmental benefits of lean, green and resilient supply chain management: The case of the aerospace sector." Journal of Cleaner Production 167 (November 2017): 850–62. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.07.201.

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12

Gaikwad, Lokpriya, and Vivek Sunnapwar. "Development of an integrated framework of LGSS strategies for Indian manufacturing firms to improve business performance: an empirical study." TQM Journal 33, no. 1 (August 3, 2020): 257–91. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/tqm-05-2020-0110.

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PurposeThis article aims to explore synergies between Lean, Green and Six Sigma practices in order to propose an integrated LGSS framework for continuous and incremental improvement in the Indian manufacturing industries. The three-dimensional LGSS framework seeks to provide various combinations and support operational, financial, environmental and social needs.Design/methodology/approachIn the research method, first, the current problems faced by Indian manufacturing industries are considered and proposition of a conceptual framework that qualitatively integrates synergistic aspects of Lean, Green and Six Sigma practices, and second, the framework is checked by a survey taken from 203 Indian firms by using SPSS-AMOS.FindingsThe hypothesized result suggests that the positive impact of integrated practices on firm performance in terms of operational, financial, social and environmental outcomes. It also provides a systemic and holistic approach to problem-solving through constant and incremental enhancement in the manufacturing sector.Research limitations/implicationsIn this research, only Indian manufacturing industries have been studied but can be extending into different geographical areas and sectors. Future research is also possible for different behavior and characteristics of companies that can lead to recommending strategies on how companies can improve performance. Most importantly, future research can try to understand which specific practice can contribute to competitive advantage and business success.Practical implicationsManufacturing firms that want to improve environmental sustainability should implement integrated LGSS practices into their supply chain. The set of combined practices improves operational, social, economical and environmental benefits.Social implicationsThe research presents an integrated approach of LSS for the manufacturing industry which leads their business processes to achieve economic sustainability through continuous growth and improved operational efficiency. Manufacturing industries result in outcomes like reduced cost, lead time, improved quality, sustainable market position, profitability, customer satisfaction, etc.Originality/valueThis research is different from previous studies because it integrates Lean, Green and Six Sigma practices into a unique framework that fulfills a specific need of the Indian manufacturing sector that guides operational, social, environmental and financial issues in Indian industries.
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Singh, Rajesh Kr, Ravinder Kumar, and Pravin Kumar. "Strategic issues in pharmaceutical supply chains: a review." International Journal of Pharmaceutical and Healthcare Marketing 10, no. 3 (September 5, 2016): 234–57. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/ijphm-10-2015-0050.

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Purpose In the present context of a health-concious society, management of pharmaceutical supply chains has become more complex because it involves the life-saving interest of human being and requires the participation of different stakeholders such as pharmaceutical manufacturers, wholesalers, distributors, customers, information service providers and regulatory agencies. Limited research is available in the area of pharmaceutical supply chains. This paper aims to find the gaps in the literature by reviewing research papers on different strategic issues of supply chain management in the pharmaceutical sector. Design/methodology/approach In total, 136 research papers, mainly from refereed international journals, were reviewed to identify the issues of supply chain management (SCM) in the pharmaceutical supply chain. On the basis of a review, gaps are identified and research agenda is proposed. Findings It is observed from review that the pharmaceutical sector is not widely researched in developing countries because of many complexities in this supply chain. The share of pharmaceutical firms in the global market is also not very significant. Based on an extensive review of pharmaceutical supply chains, research gaps are identified in different areas such as inventory management, new product development, process development, capacity planning, network design, plant design, pipeline and development management, outsourcing logistics activities, reverse logistics, Lean manufacturing, green SCM and implementation of E-business processes and performance management. These strategic issues have been further classified into three broad categories, i.e. resources, processes and performance. Originality/value This paper explores major strategic areas of pharmaceutical supply chains for research. Findings of the paper will be highly useful for researchers to decide direction of future research.
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Wang, Minxi, Ping Liu, Zhaoliang Gu, Hong Cheng, and Xin Li. "A Scientometric Review of Resource Recycling Industry." International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 16, no. 23 (November 22, 2019): 4654. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/ijerph16234654.

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With rapid economic development and urbanization, a large number of primary resources are consumed and accumulate in society as recyclable resource, which causes great pressure on the environment. The development of the resource recycling industry (RRI) can reduce environmental impacts and achieve sustainable development and green growth. Scholars are paying more attention to the resource recycling industry (RRI), and the related literature continues to increase. There are over 7041 publications covering RRI in the Web of Science database from 1996 to 2018. This paper analyzes the time distribution characteristics of the literature and the status of the scientific research cooperation network using the visualization analysis software CiteSpace. The number of documents increased from 94 in 1996 to a peak of 963 in 2018. There is no relatively stable core author group. The number of papers published by “Chinese Acad Sci” ranks first among all research institutions. Document co-citation analysis and burst detection are adopted to assess the status and emerging trends in the RRI research domain. A publication by M.C. Monte on waste management is the most cited paper. Additionally, “green and sustainable and technology” and “science and technology—other topics” are the latest emerging subject categories in RRI research. Furthermore, “e-waste”, “reverse logistics” and “lean manufacturing” are emerging research trends for RRI, and “carbon emissions”, “policy”, “demolition waste”, “supply chain management” and “compressive strength” have become hot topics. These findings may provide inspiration for scholars to search for new research directions and ideas.
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Wan Mahmood, Wan Hasrulnizzam, Mohd Nizam Ab Rahman, and Baba Md Deros. "Green Supply Chain Management in Malaysian Aero Composite Industry." Jurnal Teknologi 59, no. 2 (October 15, 2012). http://dx.doi.org/10.11113/jt.v59.1598.

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Green supply chain management (GSCM) is a concept that gaining popularity in the most region in the world. For many organisations, it is a way to demonstrate their sincere commitment to environment sustainability. This paper is then, to investigate GSCM practices in aero composite manufacturing companies, as an initiative for environmental enhancement of green management programme in Malaysia which has the potential to offer greater economic value especially in manufacture of composites material components and sub-assemblies for aircraft application. Two major companies in the sector were chosen as the location of the study. The findings show that GSCM practices in the two companies are currently moderate; and, most of the practices have significant relationship to each other. Lean manufacturing system was became most preferable approach to support the development of green supply chain practices.
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Naina, Latifah, and Yudi Fernando. "Research Note on Eco-Efficient Supply Chain Integration." KnE Social Sciences, August 18, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.18502/kss.v3i22.5085.

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Manufacturing must strictly improve environmental protection as this will able to triggers eco-efficient based innovation. At the same time, it will lead manufacturing to achieve the optimum level of environment protection and improve business performance. Currently, environmental improvement still a lack of pressure given for industry to implement environmentally friendly management practices even though the improvements in energy efficiency are obvious. Eco-efficiency has been expanded through green and lean initiatives; there is a decline in the level of integration for eco-efficiency in the supply chain to balance in both environmental and economic aspects. Thus, the objective of this study is to determine the impact of eco-efficient supply chain integration in environmental manufacturing protection improvement. The paper elaborates the importance of eco-efficient supply chain integration in environmental manufacturing protection to indicate of their improvement. The application and mechanics of eco-efficient supply chain integration discussed related to the implementation of the current practices of environmental manufacturing protection improvement.
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Hackett, Lisa J. "Addressing Rage: The Fast Fashion Revolt." M/C Journal 22, no. 1 (March 13, 2019). http://dx.doi.org/10.5204/mcj.1496.

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Wearing clothing from the past is all the rage now. Different styles and aesthetics of vintage and historical clothing, original or appropriated, are popular with fashion wearers and home sewers. Social media is rich with images of anachronistic clothing and the major pattern companies have a large range of historical sewing patterns available. Butterick McCall, for example, have a Making History range of patterns for sewers of clothing from a range of historical periods up to the 1950s. The 1950s styled fashion is particularly popular with pattern producers. Yet little research exists that explains why anachronistic clothing is all the rage. Drawing on 28 interviews conducted by the author with women who wear/make 1950s styles clothing and a survey of 229 people who wear/make historical clothing, this article outlines four key reasons that help explain the popularity of wearing/making anachronistic clothing: It argues that there exists rage against four ‘fast fashion’ practices: environmental disregard, labour breaches, poor quality, and poor fit. Ethical consumption practices such as home sewing quality clothes that fit, seeks to ameliorate this rage. That much of what is being made is anachronistic speaks to past sewing techniques that were ethical and produced quality fitting garments rather than fashion today that doesn’t fit, is of poor quality, and it unethical in its production. Fig. 1: Craftivist Collective Rage: Protesting Fast FashionRage against Fast Fashion Rage against fast fashion is not new. Controversies over Disney and Nike’s use of child labour in the 1990s, the anti-fur campaigns of the 1980s, the widespread condemnation of factory conditions in Bangladesh in the wake of the 2016 Rana Plaza collapse and Tess Holiday’s Eff Your Beauty Standards campaign, are evidence of this. Fast fashion is “cheap, trendy clothing, that samples ideas from the catwalk or celebrity culture and turns them into garments … at breakneck speed” (Rauturier). It is produced cheaply in short turnarounds, manufactured offshore by slave labour, with the industry hiding these exploitative practices behind, and in, complex supply chains. The clothing is made from poor quality material, meaning it doesn’t last, and the material is not environmentally sustainable. Because of this fast fashion is generally not recycled and ends up as waste in landfills. This for Rauturier is what fast fashion is: “cheap, low quality materials, where clothes degrade after just a few wears and get thrown away”. The fast fashion industry engages in two discrete forms of obsolescence; planned and perceived. Planned obsolescence is where clothes are designed to have a short life-span, thus coercing the consumer into buying a replacement item sooner than intended. Claims that clothes now last only a few washes before falling apart are common in the media (Dunbar). This is due to conscious manufacturing techniques that reduce the lifespan of the clothes including using mixed fibres, poor-quality interfacing, and using polyester threads, to name a few. Perceived obsolescence is where the consumer believes an otherwise functioning item of clothing to no longer to be valued. This is borne out in the idea that an item is deemed to be “in vogue” or “in fashion” and its value to the consumer is thus embedded in that quality. Once it falls out of fashion is deemed worthless. Laver’s “fashion cycle” elucidated this idea over eighty years ago. Since the 1980s the fashion industry has sped up, moving from the traditional twice annual fashion seasons to the fast fashion system of constantly manufacturing new styles, sometimes weekly. The technologies that have allowed the rapid manufacturing of fast fashion mean that the clothes are cheaper and more readily available. The average price of clothing has dropped accordingly. An item that cost US$100 in 1993 only cost US$59.10 in 2013, a drop of 41 per cent (Perry, Chart). The average person in 2014 bought 60 per cent more clothing that they did in 2000. Fast fashion is generally unsaleable in the second-hand market, due to its volume and poor design and manufacture. Green notes that many charity clothing stores bin a large percentage of the fast fashion items they receive. Environmental Rage Consumers are increasingly expressing rage about the environmental impact of fast fashion. The production of different textiles places different stresses on the environment. Cotton, for example, accounts for one third of the fibres found in all textiles, yet it requires high levels of water. A single cotton shirt needs 2,700 litres of water alone, the equivalent to “what one person drinks in two-and-a-half years” (Drew & Yehounme). Synthetics don’t represent an environmentally friendly alternative. While they may need less water, they are more carbon-intensive and polyester has twice the carbon footprint of cotton (Drew & Yehounme). Criticisms of fast fashion also include “water pollution, the use of toxic chemicals and increasing levels of textile waste”. Textile dyeing is the “second largest polluter of clean water globally.” The inclusion of chemical in the manufacturing of textiles is “disruptive to hormones and carcinogenic” (Perry, Cost). Naomi Klein’s exposure of the past problems of fast fashion, and revelations such as these, inform why consumers are enraged by the fast fashion system. The State of Fashion 2019 Report found many of the issues Klein interrogated remain of concern to consumers. Consumers continue to feel enraged at the industry’s disregard for the environment (Shaw et al.) any many are seeking alternative sources of sustainable fashion. For some consumers, the ethical dilemmas are overcome by purchasing second-hand or recycled clothing, or participate in Clothing Exchanges. Another alternative to ameliorating the rage is to stop buying new clothes and to make and wear their own clothes. A recent article in The Guardian, “’Don’t Feed the Monster!’ The People Who Have Stopped Buying New Clothes” highlights the “growing movement” of people seeking to make a “personal change” in response to the ethical dilemmas fast fashion poses to the environment. While political groups like Fashion of Tomorrow argue for collective legislative changes to ensure environmental sustainability in the industry, consumers are also finding their own individual ways of ameliorating their rage against fast fashion. Over recent decades Australians have consistently shown concern over environmental issues. A 2016 national survey found that 63 per cent of Australians considered themselves to be environmentalists and this is echoed in the ABC’s War on Waste programme which examined attitudes to and effects of clothing waste in Australia. In my interviews with women wearing 1950s style clothing, almost 65 per cent indicated a distinct dissatisfaction with mainstream fashion and frustration particularly with pernicious ‘fast fashion’. One participant offered, “seeing the War on Waste and all the fast fashion … I really like if I can get it second hand … you know I feel like I am helping a little bit” [Gabrielle]. Traid, a network of UK charity clothes shops diverts 3 000 tonnes of clothes from landfill to the second-hand market annually, reported for 2017-18 a 30 per cent increase in its second-hand clothes sales (Coccoza). The Internet has helped expand the second-hand clothing market. Two participants offered these insights: “I am completely addicted to the Review Buy Swap and Sell Page” [Anna] and “Instagram is huge for girls like us to communicate and get ideas” [Ashleigh]. Slave Rage The history of fashion is replete with examples of exploitation of workers. From the seamstresses of France in the eighteenth century who had to turn to prostitution to supplement their meagre wages (Jones 16) to the twenty-first century sweatshop workers earning less than a living wage in developing nations, poor work conditions have plagued the industry. For Karl Marx fashion represented a contradiction within capitalism where labour was exploited to create a mass-produced item. He lambasted the fashion industry and its “murderous caprices”, and despite his dream that the invention of the sewing machine would alleviate the stress placed on garment workers, technology has only served to intensify its demands on its poor workers (Sullivan 36-37). The 2013 Rena Plaza factory disaster shows just how far some sections of the industry are willing to go in their race to the bottom.In the absence of enforceable, global fair-trade initiatives, it is hard for consumers to purchase goods that reflect their ethos (Shaw et al. 428). While there is much more focus on better labour practices in the fashion industry, as the Baptist World Aid Australia’s annual Ethical Fashion Report shows, consumers are still critical of the industry and its labour practices.A significant number of participants in my research indicated that they actively sought to purchase products that were produced free from worker exploitation. For some participants, the purchasing of second-hand clothing allowed them to circumnavigate the fast fashion system. For others, mid-century reproduction fashion was sourced from markets with strong labour laws and “ethically made” without the use of sweat shop labour” [Emma]. Alternatively, another participant rejected buying new vintage fashion and instead purchased originally made fashion, in this case clothing made 50 to 60 years ago. This was one was of ensuring “some poor … person has [not] had to work really hard for very little money … [while the] shop is gaining all the profits” [Melissa]. Quality Rage Planned obsolescence in fashion has existed at least since the 1940s when Dupont ensured their nylon stockings were thin enough to ladder to ensure repeat custom (Meynen). Since then manufacturers have deliberately used poor techniques and poor material – blended fabrics, unfinished seams, unfixed dyes, for example – to ensure that clothes fail quickly. A 2015 UK Barnardo’s survey found clothes were worn an average of just seven times, which is not surprising given that clothes can last as little as two washes before being worn out (Dunbar). Extreme planned obsolescence in concert with perceived obsolescence can lead to clothes being discarded before their short lifespan had expired. The War on Waste interviewed young women who wore clothes sometimes only once before discarding them.Not all women are concerned with keeping up to date with fashion, instead wanting to create their own identify though clothes and are therefore looking for durability in their clothes. Many of the women interviewed for this research were aware of the declining quality of clothes, often referring to those made before the fast fashion era as evidence of quality clothing. For many in this study, manufacturing of classically styled clothing was of higher concern than mimicking the latest fashion trend. Some indicated their “disgust” at the poor quality of fast fashion [Gabrielle]. Others has specific outrage at the cost of poorly made fast fashion: “I don’t like spending a lot of money on clothing that I know may not necessarily be well made” [Skye] and “I got sick of dresses just being see through … you know, seeing my bras under things” [Becky]. For another: “I don’t like the whole mass-produced thing. I don’t think that they are particularly well made … Sometimes they are made with a tiny waist but big boobs, there’s no seams on them, they’re just overlocked together …” [Vicky]. For other participants in this research fast fashion produced items were considered inferior to original items. One put it is this way: “[On using vintage wares] If something broke, you fixed it. You didn’t throw it away and go down to [the shop] and buy a new one ... You look at stuff from these days … you could buy a handbag today and you are like “is this going to be here in two years? Or is it going to fall apart in my hands?” … there’s that strength and durability that I do like” [Ashleigh]. For another, “vintage reproduction stuff is so well made, it’s not like fast fashion, like Vivien of Holloway and Pin Up Girl Clothing, their pieces last forever, they don’t fall apart after five washes like fast fashion” [Emma]. The following encapsulates the rage felt in response to fast fashion. I think a lot of people are wearing true vintage clothing more often as a kind of backlash to the whole fast fashion scene … you could walk into any shop and you could see a lot of clothing that is very, very cheap, but it’s also very cheaply made. You are going to wear it and it’s going to fall apart in six months and that is not something that I want to invest in. [Melissa]Fit RageFit is a multi-faceted issue that affects consumers in several ways: body size; body shape; and height. Body size refers to the actual physical size of the body, whether one is underweight, slim, average, muscular or fat. Fast fashion body size labelling reflects what the industry considers to be of ‘normal sizes’, ranging from a size 8 through to a size 16 (Hackett & Rall). Body shape is a separate, if not entirely discrete issue. Women differ widely in the ratios between their hips, bust and waist. Body shape distribution varies widely within populations, for example, the ‘Size USA’ study identified 11 different female body shapes with wide variations between populations (Lee et al.). Even this doesn’t consider bodies with physical disabilities. Clothing is designed to fit women of ‘average’ height, thus bodies that are taller or shorter are often excluded from fast fashion (Valtonen). Even though Australian sizing practices are based on erroneous historical data (Hackett and Rall; Kennedy), the fast fashion system continues to manufacture for average body shapes and average body heights, to the exclusion of others. Discrimination through clothing sizes represents one way in which social norms are reinforced. Garments for larger women are generally regarded as less fashionable (Peters 48). Enraged consumers label some of the offerings ‘fat sacks’, ‘tents’ and ‘camouflage wear’ (Colls 591-592). Further, plus size is often more expensive and having been ‘sized up’ from smaller sizes, the result is poor fit. Larger body’s therefore have less autonomy in fashioning their identity (Peters 45). Size restrictions can lead to consumers having to choose between going without a desired item or wearing a size too small for them as no larger alternative is available (Laitala et al. 33-34).The ideology behind the thin aesthetic is that it is framed as aspirational (Barry) and thus consumers are motivated to purchase clothes based upon a desire to fit in with this beauty ideal. This is a false dichotomy (Halliwell and Dittmar 105; Bian and Wang). For participants in this research rage at fashion fashions persistance in producing for ‘average’ sized women was clearly evident. For a plus-size participant: “I don’t suit modern stuff. I’m a bigger girl and that’s not what style is these days. And so, I find it just doesn’t work for me” [Ashleigh]. For non-plus participants, sizing rage was also evident: I’m just like a praying mantis, a long string bean. I’m slim, tall … I do have the body shape … that fast fashion catered for, and I can still dress in fast fashion, but I think the idea that so many women feel excluded by that kind of fashion, I just want to distance myself from it. So, so many women have struggles in the change rooms in shopping centres because things don’t fit them nicely. [Emma] For this participant reproduction fashion wasn’t vanity sized. That is, a dress from the 1950s had the body measurements on the label rather than a number reflecting an arbitrary and erroneous sizing system. Some noted their disregard for standardised sizing systems used exclusively for fast fashion: “I have very non-standard measurements … I don’t buy dresses for that reason … My bust and my waist and my hips don’t fit a standard. You know I can’t go “ooh that’s a 12, that’s an 18”. You know, I don’t believe in standard sizing basically” [Skye]. Variations of sizing by brands adds to the frustration of fashion consumers: “if someone says 'I’m a size 16' that means absolutely nothing. If you go between brands … [shop A] XXL to a [shop B] to a [shop C] XXL to a [shop D] XXL, you know … they’re not the same. They won’t fit the same, they don’t have the same fit” [Skye]. These women recognise that their body shape, size and/or height is not catered for by fast fashion. This frees them to look for alternatives beyond the product offerings of the mainstream fashion industry. Although the rage against aspects of fast fashion discussed here – environmental, labour, quality and fit – is not seeing people in the streets protesting, people are actively choosing to find alternatives to the problem of sourcing clothes that fit their ethos. ReferencesABC Television. "Coffee Cups and Fast Fashion." War on Waste. 30 May 2017. Barnardo's. "Once Worn, Thrice Shy – British Women’s Wardrobe Habits Exposed!" 11 June 2015. 1 Mar. 2019 <http://www.barnardos.org.uk/news/press_releases.htm?ref=105244http://www.barnardos.org.uk/news/press_releases.htm?ref=105244>.Barry, Ben. "Selling Whose Dream? A Taxonomy of Aspiration in Fashion Imagery." Fashion, Style & Popular Culture 1.2 (2014): 175-92.Cocozza, Paula. “‘Don’t Feed The Monster!’ The People Who Have Stopped Buying New Clothes”. The Guardian 19 Feb. 2019. 20 Feb. 2019 <http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/feb/19/dont-feed-monster-the-people-who-have-stopped-buying-new-clothes#comment-126048716>.Colls, Rachel. "‘Looking Alright, Feeling Alright’: Emotions, Sizing and the Geographies of Women's Experiences of Clothing Consumption." Social & Cultural Geography 5.4 (2004): 583-96.Drew, Deborah, and Genevieve Yehounme. "The Apparel Industry’s Environmental Impact in 6 Graphics." World Resources Institute July 2005. 24 Feb. 2018 <http://www.wri.org/blog/2017/07/apparel-industrys-environmental-impact-6-graphics>.Dunbar, Polly. "How Your Clothes Are Designed to Fall Apart: From Dodgy Stitching to Cheap Fabrics, Today's Fashions Are Made Not to Last – So You Have to Buy More." Daily Mail 18 Aug. 2016. 25 Feb. 2018 <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3746186/Are-clothes-fall-apart-dodgy-stitching-cheap-fabrics-today-s-fashions-designed-not-buy-more.htmlhttp://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3746186/Are-clothes-fall-apart-dodgy-stitching-cheap-fabrics-today-s-fashions-designed-not-buy-more.html>.Hackett, Lisa J., and Denise N. Rall. "The Size of the Problem with the Problem of Sizing: How Clothing Measurement Systems Have Misrepresented Women’s Bodies from the 1920s – Today." Clothing Cultures 5.2 (2018): 263-83.Kennedy, Kate. "What Size Am I? Decoding Women's Clothing Standards." Fashion Theory 13.4 (2009): 511-30.Klein, Naomi. No Logo, No Space, No Choice, No Jobs: Taking Aim at the Brand Bullies. London: Flamingo, 2000.Laitala, Kirsi, Ingun Grimstad Klepp, and Benedict Hauge. "Materialised Ideals Sizes and Beauty." Culture Unbound: Journal of Current Cultural Research 3 (2011): 19-41.Laver, James. Taste and Fashion. London: George G. Harrap, 1937.Lee, Jeong Yim, Cynthia L. Istook, Yun Ja Nam, Sun Mi Pak. "Comparison of Body Shape between USA and Korean Women." International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 19.5 (2007): 374-91.Perry, Mark J. "Chart of the Day: The CPI for Clothing Has Fallen by 3.3% over the Last 20 Years, while Overall Prices Increased by 63.5%." AEIdeas 12 Oct. 2013. 4 Jan. 2019 <http://www.aei.org/publication/chart-of-the-day-the-cpi-for-clothing-has-fallen-by-3-3-over-the-last-20-years-while-overall-prices-increased-by-63-5/http://www.aei.org/publication/chart-of-the-day-the-cpi-for-clothing-has-fallen-by-3-3-over-the-last-20-years-while-overall-prices-increased-by-63-5/>. Perry, Patsy. “The Environmental Cost of Fast Fashion.” Independent 8 Jan. 2018. 1 Mar. 2019 <https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/environment-costs-fast-fashion-pollution-waste-sustainability-a8139386.html>.Peters, Lauren Downing. "You Are What You Wear: How Plus-Size Fashion Figures in Fat Identity Formation." Fashion Theory 18.1 (2014): 45-71.Rauturier, Solene. “What Is Fast Fashion?” 1 Aug. 2010. 1 Mar. 2019 <https://goodonyou.eco/what-is-fast-fashion/>.Shaw, Deirdre, Gillian Hogg, Edward Shui, and Elaine Wilson. "Fashion Victim: The Impact of Fair Trade Concerns on Clothing Choice." Journal of Strategic Marketing 14.4 (2006): 427-40.Sullivan, Anthony. "Karl Marx: Fashion and Capitalism." Thinking through Fashion. Eds. Agnès Rocamora and Anneke Smelik. London: I.B. Tauris, 2016. 28-45. Valtonen, Anu. "Height Matters: Practicing Consumer Agency, Gender, and Body Politics." Consumption Markets & Culture 16.2 (2013): 196-221.
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