Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Leather industry and trade'

The objective of the research was to ascertain whether, when compared to a system'of standards, the theoretical promise that economic incentives offered as a low cost solution to the abatement problem, would hold in practice. This was done by applying environmental economic theory to the practical problem of controlling the effluent generated by firms in the South African leather industry. It was found that in this instance the theory did indeed hold in practice. Furthermore, it was found that of the incentives discussed by the theory, marketable permits were the most economically efficient. It was however shown that a charge - not discussed in the ., theory - based on a central treatment agency's (CTA) cost of treatment offered the least cost solution to the abatement problem when the CTA could do at least some of the effluent treatment at a lower cost than the firms. - In addition a formula was developed to show the net benefits accruing to an individual firm if it undertook to treat its effluent. It was shown that in order to maximise the total benefits of treatment, a firm should treat until its net benefits of treatment were zero. A number of problem however were found to exist when the theory was applied to a practical situation. The most important was the "stepped" nature of the firms marginal abatement cost curves which meant that the setting of a charge based on a trial and error method would prove to be more difficult than the theory envisaged. Furthermore, it meant that no matter what method of pollution control was used, it would prove i~possible to reduce effluent to an optimal level. It was recommended that greater use be made of economic incentives to control all industrial effluent. It would nonetheless be necessary to do more research in this field as the theory was not tailor made for all practical situations. Further evidence of the viability of economic incentives could however encourage wider use by policy makers.

Thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree: Doctor of Technology: DESIGN In the Faculty of Informatics and Design At the Cape Peninsula University of Technology
Currently, the South African leather tanning industry is dominated by chromium tanning which has been identified as highly polluting. Vegetable tanning is considered less environmentally hazardous. Yet, there have been no plans to promote it in South Africa. Vegetable tanning process utilises vegetable matter for converting animal skins or hides into pliable material that is known as leather. South Africa has a variety of plants that produce tannins. However, the focus of this study is on the mimosa locally known as black wattle (Arcacia miernsii). Furthermore, the South African vegetable tanning sector has been left behind in terms of research and development despite the country being endowed with the Mimosa plant that is widely used in the vegetable tanning process. The country is also endowed with surplus labour which can be absorbed by the leather industry which is labour intensive.

Murgon Leather Pty. Ltd. is one of several Australian tanneries that are not able to tell if the shipments of reject leather hides are from their tannery or another or even from another country. The problem lies in the lack of a trace-back system with labels able to withstand the harsh tanning process (Isaac, 2002, priv. comm., 25 September). The Australian Government also see the value of trace-back in the tanning industry as a means to identify and reward farmers who consistently produce high quality leather hides. However, no effective machine-read labelling system has been developed (Tilbury, 1999). Labels in animal hides are currently made by the Gibson Bas Stamper which punches slits through the animal hide to produce numeric figures. These labels can withstand the tanning process but are only human-readable (Gibson, 2004, priv. comm. 10 February). Murgon Leather have identified problems with human error in regards to data entry and require a machine-read system (Isaac, 2002, priv. comm., 25 September). This study combines scientific research with Industrial Design to explore vision-based technology such as Optical Character Recognition, digital image processing and Barcode technology. From these technologies working principles are sought to reproduce into a new technology that can be applied to the tanning industry. The result is the "Leather Vision System" (LVS) which is an effective combination of digital image processing, barcode technology and a redesigned Gibson Bas stamping system. Finally, Industrial Design practices are applied to the LVS to ensure the hardware will facilitate the technology, be easy to use, and is suitable to the tanning industry.

Orientador: Adilson Renofio
Coorientador: Agnaldo de Sousa Barbosa
Banca: Jair Wagner Souza Manfrinato
Banca: Aldo Roberto Ometto
Resumo: Atualmente, aspectos como responsabilidade social e gestão ambiental emergem como fatores fundamentais para a gestão de uma empresa. Com o advento do desenvolvimento sustentável, a comunidade como um todo passou a exigir uma postura de responsabilidade social e ambiental por parte de seus fornecedores, perante a necessidade urgente de racionalizar a utilização dos recursos naturais, cada vez mais escassos, e de solucionar problemas sociais gravíssimos, muitas vezes criados pelas próprias organizações. Diante desse novo paradigma, definiu-se como objetivo para esta pesquisa compreender a prática da responsabilidade sócio-ambiental empreendida pelas indústrias coureiras do pólo industrial de Franca-SP, buscando apreender os aspectos da ação empresarial que possibilitem mitigar impactos ambientais e contribuir de forma concreta em áreas relacionadas com a comunidade. Para tanto, traçou-se os principais aspectos da responsabilidade sócio-ambiental empresarial permitindo visualizá-las como pilares para a sustentabilidade das organizações. Desenvolveu-se uma estrutura teórica que norteou os objetivos propostos para a elaboração deste trabalho, no qual foram abordados alguns instrumentos de gestão social e ambiental, tais como os indicadores ETHOS de Responsabilidade Social, certificações e selos voltados à questão sócio-ambiental, licenciamentos e legislações ambientais, Produção mais Limpa, ISO 14000 e a abordagem sistêmica. Estes instrumentos permitiram delinear a postura e as ações de responsabilidade social e ambiental praticadas pelas indústrias coureiras. Os resultados obtidos com a pesquisa exploratória realizada em 12 empresas permitiram, de forma geral, perceber que os empresários das indústrias calçadistas de Franca possuem uma postura reativa frente aos novos paradigmas de gestão sociais e ambientais, e praticam ações isoladas e incipientes para minorar os impactos sócio-ambientais ocasionados...
Abstract: At present, aspects like social responsability and environmental management emerge as fundamental factors for company management. With the advent of sustainable development, the community as a whole began to demand a social and environmental responsability position on the part of suppliers in face of the urgent need to ration the use of increasingly scarcer natural resources and to solve very serious social problems, often created by the organizations themselves. In face of this new paradigm, the objective of this paper is to understand the practice of social-environmental responsability, carried out by the leather industries in the Franca, SP, industrial center, in an attempt to grasp the aspects of business action that make it possible to mitigate environmental impacts and contribute in a concrete manner towards community related areas. For such, the main aspects of corporate social-environmental responsability wre draw, making it possible to visualize them as pillars for the sustainability of organizations. A theoretical structure was developed that guided the objectives proposed for elaborating this study in which some social and environmental management instruments were addressed, such as ETHOS Indicators for Social Responsability, certifications and seals geared towards social environmental issues, environmental licensing and legislation, Cleaner Production, ISO 14000 and the systemic approach. These instruments make it possible to outline the social and environmental responsability position and actions practices by the leather industries. The results obtained with exploratory research conducted at 12 companies made it possible to perceive that, in general, Franca footwear industry business owners maintain a reactive position in face of the new social and environmental management paradigms and they practice isolated and incipient actions to reduce the social-environmental impacts caused by their activities. It is believed that the...
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La produzione agricola industriale su larga scala e il commercio di prodotti sono sempre più connessi a fenomeni di deforestazione e degradazione delle foreste tropicali. Tale fenomeno è descritto tramite il concetto di ‘rischio di deforestazione’ o forest-risk. I prodotti agricoli i cui processi produttivi implicano deforestazione e rimozione della vegetazione autoctona, sono classificati beni a rischio deforestazione (forest risk commodities). Carne bovina, soia, olio di palma e legname – i beni a rischio deforestazione – sono considerati ‘i grandi 4’ tra le forest-risk commodities. A causa della complessità dei sistemi globali di produzione e commercio alcuni beni sono indirettamente legati a tale rischio, poiché derivano da aree deforestate senza essere essi stessi causa diretta di deforestazione. Questa dimensione del rischio viene spesso tralasciata e permane un tema secondario nel dibattito sulla deforestazione derivata dalla produzione e il commercio di beni di consumo. La distinzione tra beni con un legame causale diretto con la deforestazione e beni che includono nella propria filiera il rischio di deforestazione incide su come la responsabilità della deforestazione viene attribuita e considerata sia tramite misure legali che tramite standard volontari di auto-regolamentazione. Pertanto risulta necessario sviluppare una concettualizzazione migliore per concordare una terminologia da utilizzare sia nella letteratura accademica che in quella informale e raggiungere delle decisioni politiche basate su un approccio scientifico. Nella ricerca effettuata si è voluto espandere la concettualizzazione di deforestation risk facendo riferimento al caso delle pelli bovine (di qui in avanti semplicemente, pelli) e in particolare al caso della produzione di pelli/prodotti di conceria in Brasile. Il focus sulle pelli ha molteplici ragioni. In primo luogo, mentre il ruolo degli allevamenti zootecnici come causa di deforestazione in Brasile è soggetto ad una crescente attenzione da parte dell’opinione pubblica, la filiera di produzione delle pelli rimane ancora inesplorata. Fatta eccezione per poche imprese leader del settore dei prodotti in pelle, il dibattito sulla trasparenza di questa filiera e il rischio di deforestazione ad essa associato è praticamente assente. In secondo luogo, la filiera della pelle è di norma molto più complessa rispetto a quella della carne bovina e coinvolge numerosi attori sia a livello nazionale che internazionale, ivi compresi gli intermediari, le concerie, le case di moda, ecc. Ciò crea delle discontinuità nella tracciabilità della pelle e complica l’identificazione del rischio di deforestazione lungo la filiera. Infine, la pelle è un bene che per propria stessa natura è legato a rapporti di forza squilibrati tra gli attori della filiera. Una terza ragione per la scelta del settore della pelle è data dal fatto che, poiché la pelle è spesso considerata un prodotto di scarto secondario della carne bovina, ne consegue che gli attori coinvolti nella filiera sostengono di avere uno scarso potere di negoziazione per imporre i loro standard e delle condizioni di non-deforestazione ai produttori. Al contempo, gli attori a valle della filiera, come le case di moda, sono maggiormente esposti a rischi di natura reputazionale rispetto alle imprese del settore della carne. In conseguenza di tale situazione vi è il fatto che la pelle è un bene con costi e benefici distribuiti in maniera asimmetrica all’interno della filiera. Mentre a monte gli allevatori mancano delle risorse per rispettare standard di sostenibilità e spesso non beneficiano di nessuna compensazione economica per il pellame dei propri bovini, i prodotti finiti in pelle sono visti come beni di lusso, con elevati margini di guadagno per le aziende che li producono e commerciano. Questa ricerca impiega sia dati primari che secondari. I dati primari sono principalmente di tipo qualitativo e derivano da trentanove interviste semi-strutturate e audio-registrate condotte sotto forma sia di colloqui vis-à-vis che a distanza (video-chiamate) durante una missione in Brasile tra maggio e agosto 2018. Tali dati sono stati utilizzati prevalentemente ai fini dell’analisi del discorso (discourse analysis) presentata nel secondo capitolo e come riferimenti interpretativi e di lettura del contesto per l’analisi dei dati quantitativi secondari presentata nei rimanenti capitoli. I dati e le informazioni secondari sono stati derivati da un’estesa analisi della letteratura e analisi di dati statistici relativi a mattatoi, registri su pelli bovine grezze e semilavorate e processi di deforestazione; sono stati inoltre considerati dati geospaziali relativi alle aree deforestate e alla localizzazione dei mattatoi e delle concerie; da ultimo sono stati considerati dati relativi al commercio di pelli e prodotti derivati tra Brasile e Italia. Nessun intervallo di tempo specifico è stato selezionato a priori per l’analisi dei dati: le serie temporali sono state selezionate a seconda della disponibilità di dati e delle necessità relative alle singole tipologie di analisi impiegate. Dai risultati emerge che la filiera delle pelli ha un rischio deforestazione significativo nonostante il pellame non sia un prodotto primario dell’allevamento bovino e un fattore diretto di deforestazione. Il rischio si colloca principalmente nel legame con le attività zootecniche e di allevamento, nell’incompleta tracciabilità della filiera così come nel commercio interno e internazionale di pelle. Le pelli prodotte in Brasile e importate per essere successivamente lavorate in Italia incorporano un livello significativo di rischio di deforestazione a causa degli intensi scambi commerciali tra i due Paesi. Il rischio di deforestazione legato alle pelli è affrontato in maniera diversa dai diversi discorsi esistenti sul tema e pone in evidenza come l’articolarsi della trama di ciascun discorso comporti l’attenzione sia su aspetti visibili che invisibili rispetto alla sostenibilità, all’equità e alla legalità delle filiere in questione. I risultati mettono in risalto l’importanza del ruolo e della voce degli agricoltori di frontiera, mostrando come la loro visione e interpretazione informi un discorso politico incentrato sul tema della sopravvivenza e del sostentamento. È quindi necessaria una maggiore attenzione da parte dell’opinione pubblica sulle filiere produttive, ivi comprese quelle delle pelli e dei prodotti derivati, e in particolare sulle relazioni non eque di potere, così come sull’importanza di un’inclusione significativa di gruppi vulnerabili della popolazione. L’industria del pellame e i grandi marchi dovrebbero essere più proattivi, inviando al mercato un chiaro segnale per cui la deforestazione e altre forme di illegalità non possono essere tollerate. Una piena tracciabilità della filiera e il coinvolgimento dei produttori è imprescindibile se l’industria mira a produrre e commerciare prodotti che non siano responsabili di o coinvolti in processi di deforestazione.
Large-scale industrial agricultural production and commodity trade are increasingly linked to deforestation and forest degradation in the tropics. This link is described via the concept of ‘deforestation risk’. Agricultural products whose production or extraction involves deforestation and native vegetation clearing are classified as forest-risk commodities. Beef, soybean, palm oil, and timber - the commodities with deforestation risk - are considered the “big four” of forest-risk commodities. Due to the complexity of global production and trade systems there are commodities that possess the risk of originating from deforested areas without being direct deforestation/forest degradation drivers. This dimension of the risk is either overlooked or held as secondary in the debates about commodity-driven deforestation. Differentiation between commodities with direct causal links and those with the exposure to deforestation in their supply chain has impact on how responsibility and accountability is constructed both through legal measures and self-regulatory voluntary standards. Better conceptualization is needed to approximate the usage of the terms both in grey and academic literature and to achieve science backed policy decisions. By referring to the case of bovine leather (hereinafter just leather) and the case of Brazilian leather production we aim to expand the conceptualization of deforestation risk. We focus on leather for multiple reasons. First, while the role of cattle in driving deforestation in Brazil is subject to increasing public scrutiny, the leather commodity chain largely remains in the shadow. Except for a few leading firms in leather goods, public discussion about transparency across the leather supply chain and associated deforestation risk is mostly absent. Second, leather supply chains are more complex compared to beef and involve many national and international players, including intermediary sellers, tanneries, fashion houses, etc. This creates traceability gaps and complicates identifying deforestation risk along the chain. Third, leather is a commodity with inherently uneven power relations among the actors in the supply chain and with costs and benefits unevenly distributed across the chain. Often considered a waste or by-product to beef meat, actors in the leather supply chain argue to lack important negotiation power to impose their standards and no deforestation conditions upon producers. At the same time, downstream actors of leather supply chain, such as fashion brands, are more susceptible to reputational risks compared to that of beef. While upstream farmers lack resources to adhere to sustainability standards and hardly get any financial compensation for the skin of their cattle, finished leather products are often regarded as luxury products presenting very high price margins for producing/trading brands. This research employs both primary and secondary data. Primary data is mostly qualitative and entails thirty-nine semi-structured, recorded, and transcribed interviews, in the form of both face-to-face and video call interviews conducted during extended field visit to Brazil in May-August 2018. This data is mainly used for the discourse analysis in the second chapter and for interpretative and contextual purposes to analyse the secondary quantitative data in the other chapters. Secondary information consists of extensive literature review, statistical data on annual slaughter, bovine hide/leather registry and annual deforestation, geospatial data on deforestation, slaughterhouse and tannery locations, as well as, trade statistics on Brazilian-Italian leather trade. No specific time frame was chosen to analyse the data and time series for each data set were selected according to availability and the specific requirements of each type of analysis. The results show that bovine leather supply chains possess significant risk of embedded deforestation despite leather not being a primary product of cattle ranching and driver of deforestation. The risk reveals itself in the link with cattle ranching, incomplete supply chain traceability, as well as in interstate and international leather trade. The Brazilian-Italian bovine leather has significant level of embedded deforestation due to intensive trade relations. Different discourses articulate deforestation risk of bovine leather differently and highlight how the storylines of each discourse bring attention both to what is made visible and invisible in relation to sustainability, legitimacy, and fairness. The results emphasise the importance of the role and voice of frontier settlers, by presenting how their storylines inform a political discourse on livelihoods. There is a need for increased public scrutiny of supply chains, including the leather one, and for special attention to unequal power relations and the importance of meaningful inclusion of vulnerable groups and populations. The leather industry and big brands need to be more proactive by sending clear market signals that deforestation and other illegalities are not tolerated. Full coverage and traceability of the supply chain and engagement with the producers is necessary if the industry wants to produce and trade deforestation-free products.

Thesis (PhD)--Stellenbosch University, 2008.
ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Although small, the South African ostrich industry contributes 60% to the total world production of slaughter ostriches. Ostrich leather contributes more than 50% of the R2.1 billion turnover of this industry. This study is the first structured investigation into the characteristics of ostrich leather focussing on factors such as age, nutrition, slaughter weight, and genetics, and the influence thereof on intrinsic leather traits. Large variation in terms of skin quality was found between producers, month of the year and production years. The effect of age suggested that leather thickness and tensile strength increased with age while the number of nodules declined by 2.8 for every month increase in slaughter age. Slit tear strength and tensile strength increased with heavier slaughter weights. Older ostriches had higher values for slit tear strength and skin thickness. Nodule diameter increased at a rate of 0.08mm per month increase in age. Nodules with an average diameter of more than 4.0mm were only obtained in the combination of old heavy birds, while nodule diameter of the other age-weight combinations ranged between 3.3mm and 3.5mm. Subjective assessment of nodule traits by participants with or without prior knowledge of age suggested that slaughter age accounted for 46% of the variation in estimated slaughter age. Nodule acceptability scores generally increased with an increase in slaughter age. Moderately acceptable scores were found in skins from birds 11 months and older. The effect of energy and protein concentrations of ostrich diets suggested that raw skin areas were 19.4% and 21.8% larger at slaughter for birds receiving a diet containing 10.5 MJ/ME and 12.0 MJ ME/kg DM respectively, compared to that of birds receiving a 9.0 MJ ME/kg DM diet. Leather thickness taken parallel to the spine was increased by 13% when birds were fed the higher energy diet. Dietary protein concentrations failed to influence skin weight, skin area or any physical leather properties. The genetic variation in nodule size measured at different sampling sites on the skin suggested that nodule size increased chronologically with age at the neck, back, upper leg, and flank and butt areas. Estimates of h² for nodule size ranged from 0.09 ± 0.07 on the flank region to 0.24 ± 0.10 on the upper leg region. Preliminary results seem to suggest that nodule size on different locations of the skin is not necessarily the same genetic trait. It was concluded that measurements at any specific site is unlikely to predict measurements at other sites with a high degree of accuracy due to the large variation that exists between measurement sites. This dissertation provides an insight into the complexity of ostrich leather quality, and the interaction of leather traits, such as nodule size and shape, leather thickness and tensile strength, that determine ostrich leather quality.
AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Alhoewel klein, produseer die Suid-Afrikaanse volstruisbedryf 60% van die totale wêreldproduksie van slagvolstruise. Volstruisleer is verantwoordelik vir meer as 50% van die R 2.1 biljoen omset van die bedryf. Hierdie studie is die eerste gestruktureerde ondersoek na die intrinsieke eienskappe van volstruisleer en die invloed van ouderdom, voeding, slagmassa en genetika op hierdie eienskappe. Groot variasie t.o.v. leerkwaliteit is waargeneem tussen produsente, maande van die jaar en produksiejare. Die effek van ouderdom toon dat leerdikte en treksterkte verhoog het met toename in ouderdom, terwyl die aantal knoppies afneem met 2.8 vir elke maand toename in slagouderdom. Skeur- en treksterkte het verhoog met ʼn swaarder slagmassa (64kg vs. 99kg). Hoër waardes vir skeursterkte en veldikte is vir ouer voëls (384 dae vs. 234 dae ouderdom) verkry. Knoppie deursnit het teen ʼn tempo van 0.08mm per maand toename in ouderdom verhoog. Knoppies met ʼn gemiddelde deursit van groter as 4.0mm is slegs waargeneem in swaar-ou voëls, terwyl die knoppie deursnit van die ander massa-ouderdom kombinasies tussen 3.3mm en 3.5mm gewissel het. Die subjektiewe waarneming van 28 respondente, ingelig of oningelig oor die betrokke slagouderdom, dui daarop dat die werklike slagouderdom verantwoordelik is vir 46% van die variasie in geskatte slagouderdom. Die puntetoekenning vir knoppie-aanvaarbaarheid het verhoog met ‘n toename in slagouderdom. Aanvaarbare puntetoekenning vir knoppie-ontwikkeling is verkry vir voëls vanaf 11 maande en ouer. Die effek van energie- en proteïenkonsentrasies in volstruisdiëte toon dat die rouveloppervlakte onderskeidelik 19.4% en 21.8 % groter was met slagting vir voëls wat onderskeidelik ‘n 10.5 MJ/ME en 12.0 MJ ME/kg DM diëte gevoer is, in vergelyking met voëls wat ‘n 9.0 MJ ME/kg DM dieet ontvang het. Leerdikte, geneem parallel met die ruggraat, het met 13% toegeneem wanneer die hoër energie dieet gevoer is. Dieetproteïen konsentrasies het geen invloed op velmassa, veloppervlakte of enige fisiese leerkwaliteitseienskappe gehad nie. Die genetiese variasie in knoppiegrootte geneem op verskillende lokaliteite op die vel toon ʼn chronologiese toename met ouderdom in die nek-, rug-, boud-, sy- en stuitjie gebiede. Beraamde h² vir knoppiegrootte wissel vanaf 0.09±0.07 op die sye tot 0.24±0.10 op die boudgedeelte. Voorlopige resultate dui aan dat knoppiegrootte op verskillende lokaliteite nie noodwendig dieselfde genetiese basis het nie. Die gebruik van een lokaliteit vir die voorspelling van die eienskappe van ʼn ander, blyk nie sinvol te wees nie a.g.v. die groot variasie wat tussen verskillende lokaliteite bestaan. Hierdie studie verskaf insig oor die kompleksiteit van volstruisleerkwaliteit en die interaksie van leereienskappe soos knoppiegrootte en –deursnit, veldikte en treksterkte, in die bepaling van leerkwaliteit.

Necin bark (1zadirach1a indica) contains a mixture of complex chemical components identified as: One procyanidin trirner Four dimers Cl Epicatechin-[4a-8j-epicatechin epicatechin. B1 Epicatechin- [4[3-8]-catechin, B2 Epicatechin- [43-8]-epicatechin, B3 Catechin-[4ct-81-catechin, B4 Catechin-[4a-81-epicatechin. Four well known monomers (+)-Catechin, (-)-Epicatechin, (+)-Gallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin. Other compounds Quercetin, Kaempferol, Fisetin and Gallic acid These compounds were characterised by chromatographic and spectroscopic techniques, including by thiolytic degradation with toluene-a-thiol and using acetylated and methyl derivatives. Structural elucidation of the cleavage products was by ‘H-NMR. The backbone of the isolated compounds consisted mainly of a mixture of flavan-3-ol units with 2R- configuration. The purity of monomers, dimers and trimer was checked by HPLC on Lichrosorb RP8 column. The molecular weight distribution ranges between 250 and 5500 and the average molecular weight distribution was found to be 1550 by gel permeation chromatography. Gas chromatography-mass spectroscopy demonstrated the complex nature of NBT molecular masses consist of monomeric, dimeric and trimeric units of procyanidin B and C types respectively. IR and FT-IR spectroscopy results were consistent with the rest of the techniques used. The hydrothermal stability of neem bark tannin tanned and crosslinked hide powder and leathers was found to be paralleled to mimosa tannin extract. Studies of the physical properties of tanned and retanned leathers showed corn pai.ahility of micem bark tannins with mimosa tannin extract

This thesis reports on research undertaken to investigate the implementation of a Circular approach within the leather industry, through the definition of a framework and development of an economic decision-making support tool. The core objective of the research is to identify the underpinning opportunities and challenges involved in creating recycling solutions for leather waste. The research contributions can be considered in four key areas. The first part of the thesis consists of a review of the use of leather across industry sectors and the existing waste management and recycling systems for leather waste. On consideration of this review it clearly shows a lack of systematic thinking around the creation and optimisation of recovery systems for leather waste. This review concludes that there is significant room for improvement of the current waste management and recycling solutions for leather waste. A variety of value-added products can be recovered from these wastes but only if the leather can be successfully separated from the other materials (such as rubbers and polymers) within end-of-life products and manufacturing wastes. The second part of the research defines a framework for implementing a Circular approach within the leather industry. This framework supports mapping and characterisation of the leather waste stream and the design of recycling and processing strategies for leather waste. The third part of the research is concerned with the development of a decision-support tool for the economic viability of leather recycling systems. The support tool considers all cost factors and combines them to give a single factor upon which the economic effectiveness of different leather recycling scenarios can be evaluated. Finally, the validity of the framework for leather waste recycling is assessed through the completion of two case studies. These case studies demonstrate the flexibility of the framework in supporting both horizontal (across lifecycle) leather recycling and vertical (across industry sector) leather recycling. In summary, the research clearly highlights the need for systematic thinking and flexible strategies when creating leather recycling systems. Failure to incorporate flexibility into future recycling systems puts the recycling industries at risk of being unable to effectively manage future waste streams. Conversely, early consideration and incorporation of flexible processing strategies into recycling systems could enable the recovery of high-quality recycled materials that support a circular approach to manufacturing and resource use.

Content: Sustainability and transparency of the leather industry are increasingly important factors for the sector’s clients as well as final consumers, looking for quality products that are also sustainable in all tiers of the production process. In this sense, certification and labelling processes are tools that grant visibility to the positive practices of manufacturers and their suppliers. In Brazil, through an unprecedented tanneries initiative conducted by the Centre for the Brazilian Tanning Industry (CICB), a certification for the leather production process was created. The Brazilian Leather Certification of Sustainability (CSCB) counts on the participation of the various links in the production chain. Using the concept of the sustainability tripod, CSCB considers the results of tanneries in economic, environmental and social aspects. A sustainable tannery develops its activities with positive economic results, seeking to reduce inherent environmental impact of its activities, providing better working conditions to employees and respecting the surrounding community. Since the starting point of its creation (2012), CSCB has reached many results concerning process’ improvements in the industry, quitting wastage and getting efficiency in indicators. As the CSCB practices are inside more than 20 tanneries all over Brazil (some of them amongst the biggest in the country, covering a big part of the Brazilian leather production, which is one the hugest in the world) these findings are extremely important and must be shared with whole industry. The certification process is based on implementation and compliance with principles, criteria, and indicators established by standards developed by the Brazilian Association of Technical Standards (ABNT) and audited by certification institutes accredited by The National Metrology, Quality, and Technology Institute (Inmetro), signatory to the mutual recognition agreement within the framework of the International Accreditation Forum (IAF) and the International Laboratory Accreditation Cooperation (ILAC). These agreements guarantee the international validation and recognition of CSCB. Tanneries are certified according to how well they meet the standards, being granted an identification seal for sustainable processes, guaranteeing the transparency of Brazilian leather suppliers. Take-Away: Sustainability as a tool for efficiency in the leather industry Results on the last years of work of the Brazilian Leather Certification of Sustainability (CSCB) Sustainability indicators on Brazilian tannery work

Most countries have implemented export-oriented development strategies with the objectives of improving their economic stability and improving resource allocation efficiency. Export tax, which has been an integral part of trade policies for centuries, has not been given adequate attention by the World Trade Organization (WTO) or the economic literature. Export taxes on primary commodities serve as indirect subsidies to manufacturing and processing industries by lowering the domestic price of inputs, and also have a positive effect on government revenue. Conversely, export taxes can have a negative impact on the producers of raw materials and externalities for trade partners. The government of Ethiopia applied a 150% export tax on raw hides and skins (RHS) and semi-finished leather products in 2008, and another 150% export tax on crust leather in 2012 in order to encourage the leather manufacturing industry. The aim of this study is to examine the export trends of Ethiopia s raw hides and skins and finished leather products, and to analyse the effect of export tax on Ethiopia s leather industry s export competitiveness. A linear trend analysis model was used to analyse the export trends of raw hides and skins and finished leather products. This study evaluated export volume data from 1997 to 2014 in order to estimate the trend coefficients. The results of the model showed that Ethiopia s RHS and semi-processed leather products export had declined by -38.06% and significant at 1% significant level; this is due to the heavy export tax imposed by the government to increase the production and export of finished leather products. Meanwhile, finished leather products and footwear have increased by 75.34% and 44.37% respectively, and significant at 1% significant level. The comparative advantage analysis was used to examine the revealed comparative advantage (RCA) of Ethiopia by comparing selected countries. The results indicated that Ethiopia was a RCA of raw hides and skins and semi-processed leather products more than one (RCA > 1) before 2008; after the export tax implementation in 2008, the RCA became decreased, conversely, the RCA of Ethiopia s finished product more than one for the period 2006 to 2014 and increased more after 2008. South Africa has comparative advantage only on the export of raw hides skins and semi-processed leather product (RCA>1). Nigeria was not stable RCA for both raw hides and skins and finished leather products and in most year revealed comparative advantage greater than one (RCA >1). The RCA indexes of footwear for all three countries were less than one except Ethiopia in (2007, 2008 and 2012). The RCA provides information on advantage to exports, such as product comparisons with other competitive countries. However, the RCA does not show the sources of advantage (growth), therefore the constant market share (CMS) model was used to indicate the source of advantage. The CMS model has been used to evaluate the competitiveness of Ethiopia s leather products. The export value data of 2007 were used as the base year, whereas data in 2013 were considered as the year after the export tax implementation and increase. The results indicate that the implementation of the export tax has reduced the competitiveness of raw hides and skins and semi-processed leather products, but increased the competitiveness of the finished leather products in the world markets. The overall results showed positive export growth (2.55), which is most likely achieved by an increase in the export competitiveness of the leather industry of 2.25. The positive competitiveness value indicates that Ethiopian finished leather products are competitive with other exporters in selected markets (Italy, China and Hong Kong). Conversely, Ethiopia s leather products have negative commodity composition effects and market composition effects (-0.132 and -0.262, respectively). The negative commodity composition effect shows that, because of the export tax, the export of Ethiopian raw hides and skins and semi-processed leather products have decreased, while the imports of these products have grown faster in selected markets. The same is true for negative market composition effects; because of the export tax, the demand for raw hides and skins and semi-finished products decreased in selected markets.
Dissertation (MSc)--University of Pretoria, 2015.
Agricultural Economics, Extension and Rural Development
MSc
Unrestricted

This project has investigated the potential of using the protein cross-linking enzyme, microbial transglutaminase (mTG), as a tanning agent, using native bovine hide as substrate. Treatment of bovine hide with mTG led to the covalent cross-linking of collagen molecules with approximately 4 nmol of cross-link per mg of collagen. However, mTG treatment did not affect the denaturation temperature of native bovine hide when used alone or together with other proteins or bifunctional diamines as crosslinking facilitators. In addition, mTG crosslinking of either chrome or glutaraldehyde tanned bovine hide led to a decrease in tensile strength. However, the resistance of cross-linked bated bovine hide towards either acid hydrolysis or proteolytic digestion with collagenase was significantly increased. Despite these beneficial changes, the use of mTG as an alternative tanning agent seems unlikely given that the most important aspects of a tanned hide are increased hydrothermal stability coupled with good tensile strength properties. As a result, the focus of the research was amended to evaluate the potential of applying mTG during the dyeing operations, by cross-linking of dye-binding carrier peptides into tanned hides to facilitate an increase in potential dye-binding sites. Initial results at laboratory scale using both freeze dried bated bovine hide and chrome tanned crust leather with keratin hydrolysate as the carrier protein and mTG as the cross-linker indicated an increase of depth of shade of -1.5 DL units (grain side) when using acid dyes, the colour fastness was also improved. A full-scale industrial trial of this novel process was undertaken using a commercial process in LINK-project partner tanneries with wool on sheepskin. The outcome of the industrial trials indicated that treatment with mTG and keratin hydrolysate at full scale production resulted in leathers with a significantly deeper shade (approximately -1 DL unit) and the leathers were also faster to treatment with artificial perspiration solution. The treatment also improved the wool resistance to abrasion

Content: Sheepskin, a by-product of the meat industry, is then often processed to leather, primarily for the clothing industry. Where the tanneries are distant from the abattoirs and freezing works, the raw skins have to be transported long distances to be processed. In warm weather, there is the potential for putrefaction of the skins which then have to be disposed of at a cost. Depilation, the first step of leather processing, is designed to remove the wool from the skin without damaging it. Conventional depilation involves the use of strong alkali and sulfides, that are harmful to both the environment and the personnel carrying out the process due to the potential production of hydrogen sulfide, a toxic, flammable gas. To solve this problem, scientists have been looking to depilate skins using enzymes as these are environmentally friendly. Various enzymes, such as collagenase, keratinase, protease and lipase have been shown to be able to remove hair from skin, but unfortunately usually damage it. Furthermore, at present, they are not cost effective at an industrial level. We have found a simple solution, a derivative of a dairy by-product, that prevents putrefaction, preserving the skin for days at room temperature. In addition, it allows easy removal of the wool from the skin. Scanning electron microscopy showed there was no obvious damage to the surface of the depilated skin and that the wool is cleanly removed from the hair follicle. To assess any less visible damage that may have occurred as a result of soaking the skin, biochemical analyses were carried out to measure the changes to the amino acid composition, collagen crosslinks and proteoglycan concentrations of the depilated skins. Sheepskin depilated with this method was processed to leather and its physical properties such as tear, and tensile strength analysed. Culture dependent methods were used to isolate the microorganisms present in the solution after depilation, showed that only four main species were consistently found in the depilation fluid and on the skins. Metagenomic analysis, confirmed these findings and was used to follow the changes in the microbiome during the course of depilation. This presentation will describe the progress that has been made to understand the science behind these observations and compare the properties of skins depilated using this method with those depilated using the traditional beamhouse process. Take-Away: We are using a natural product to depilate sheepskin. The sheepskin is also preserved while depilation. Microscopy, chemical analyses, physical tests, and metagenomics analysis were done to understand the process.

We use a sample of 14 OECD countries and 15 manufacturing industries to test for the effect of trade on productivity. Endogeneity concerns are accounted for using the geographical component of trade as instrument as suggested by Frankel and Romer (1999). Our results are in line with previous studies: Trade increases productivity. What is puzzling, however, is the size of the effect: An increase in the export ratio by one percentage point increases productivity in manufacturing by 0.6 percent on average. This is less than half of the effect obtained in previous studies. We discuss likely explanations for this discrepancy.
Series: EI Working Papers / Europainstitut

Content: In today’s business environment, organisations are increasingly reporting their sustainability credentials through different channels. However, in a traditional industry with a complex supply chain as leather, many companies do not publicly disclose details of their sustainability activities, while a considerable number of companies report on the environmental sustainability aspect alone. Hence, this study identifies good practices of sustainability reporting, discussing the sustainability information extracted from the reports of a selected number of companies in the leather industry. A thematic content analysis was used to extract sustainability information from either the website, annual report, sustainability report or corporate social responsibility report of six leather companies. A review of existing literature assisted in categorising different practices under the three sustainability dimensions while a highlight of patterns among practices followed. The results show that the companies are observing a good practice of either dedicating a section of their website to revealing their sustainability activities or utilising their sustainability reports. Additionally, these companies follow a good practice of reporting their activities based on the economic, social and environmental sustainability dimensions, rather than focusing on just one of the aspects. Amongst the six companies, energy efficiency and reduction in greenhouse gases emission were the most occurring environmental sustainability practices. On the other hand, health and safety occurred as the dominant social sustainability practice of the leather industry, while economic sustainability practices have not been well defined, providing an opportunity for future research. Conclusively, the study provides a useful resource for managers and companies in the leather industry to learn from brands that have been embarking on sustainability efforts and assist them in getting a grasp of the concept, in readiness for strategy formulation, implementation and reporting. This study provides knowledge of the sustainability criteria to be met by small, medium sized and large leather supply chain actors on their sustainability journey. Take-Away: 1. The companies are observing a good practice of either dedicating a section of their website to revealing their sustainability activities or utilising their sustainability reports. 2. The companies also follow a good practice of reporting their activities based on the economic, social and environmental sustainability dimensions, rather than focusing on just one of the aspects. 3. Energy efficiency and reduction in greenhouse gases emission were the most popular environmental sustainability practices, health and safety was the dominant social sustainability practice while economic sustainability practices have not been well defined.

Thesis (M.S.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Sloan School of Management, 1991.
Title as it appears in the June, 1991 M.I.T. Graduate List: International trade in dairy products and the New Zeland industry.
Includes bibliographical references.
by Hugh Gollan.
M.S.

In the last three decades, the global economy has witnessed an ambivalent phenomenon of integration through disintegration. Whilst the amount of regional and global trade dramatically increased, vertical specialisation prompted the outsourcing of manufacturing, assembling, and other business functions regionally and globally. The slicing up of value chains and the consequent surge in trade of intermediate goods drew the attention of scholars interested in the economic, social, and environmental consequences of this phenomenon. Yet, most of the literature on value chains has concentrated on the institutional and market linkages between firms in developed economies and delocalised suppliers in the global South. Conversely, less attention has been paid to the rise in South-South trade that accompanied the development of South- South and regional value chains. The following chapters provide new evidence on the opportunities and constraints that participation in value chains across North-South, South-South, and regional trajectories entails for local suppliers in developing countries. This is achieved by means of a mixed-methods approach that combines firm-level export data with over 100 semi-structured interviews across the Kenyan leather sector. On the one hand, results show how North-South value chains are characterised by more profitable and stable relationships between buyers and local suppliers. Nonetheless, whilst defined by higher product and process standards, linkages with developed economies appear to prevent rather than encourage local value addition. On the other hand, South-South value chains are governed by instability and distrust underpinned by pressures to reduce prices and lack of upgrading opportunities. Like the global South, regional value chains are characterised by fierce competition and low profitability. Even so, they often constitute an alternative for small suppliers willing to venture into new products and functions. Particularly, the local and regional markets represent an upgrading platform for innovative firms whose low capital endowments prevent them from accessing premium North-South value chains. In this case, industrial policy and entrepreneurship play a crucial role in enabling smallholders to upgrade in a competitive environment.

This qualitative study examines the environmental behaviour of leatherworking SMEs in Pakistan. It investigates the environmental drivers, enablers and barriers in these firms. The study makes an empirical contribution by examining an under-researched developing economy context, Pakistan, which has distinct institutional settings compared to many other countries, especially the developed ones. It also offers a methodological contribution by demonstrating that a hybrid theoretical framework informed by institutional theory, resource-based view, natural-resource-based view and dynamic capabilities perspective offers a better approach to develop the holistic and in-depth understanding of the environmental behaviour of SMEs. It enables the researcher to effectively capture the interactive effect of internal and external factors on the environmental transformation of SMEs. Grounded analysis of interview data has revealed that multilevel (micro-meso-macro) factors, such as environmental requirements of international customers, regulations of export markets, intermediary organisations and peers, operate in conjunction to exert the coercive, normative and mimetic isomorphic pressures on leatherworking SMEs to behave environmentally responsibly. Sustainability values of owner-managers, financial benefits and aspirations for image building also drive these firms to reduce their environmental footprints. Contributing theoretically, the study finds that dynamic capabilities for ecological learning, seizing environmental opportunities and enterprise reconfiguration enable environmentally progressive and moderate SMEs to reduce their pollution load. Social capital, environmentally proactive owner-managers and support programmes of cleaner production centres serve as key microfoundations to these capabilities. More specifically, due to the absence of effective formal institutional support, cleaner production centres have acted as the (informal) compensatory institutional structures and proto-institutional sponsors striving to institutionalise cleaner production practices in the leather industry. Through developing ‘eco-literacy’ skills amongst SME owners, managers and employees they have been motivating and enabling them to adopt innovative eco-friendly production processes and cleaner technologies. Some other capabilities including pollution prevention, product stewardship, absorptive capacity and strategic proactivity serve as precursors to the presence of these capabilities. Policy implications relate to addressing the financial barriers and institutional ‘gaps’, developing human resources and infrastructure, and better management of tannery clusters.

The purpose of the thesis is to determine whether Russia has changed its intra-industry trade pattern with Sweden between the years of 1997 and 2003. To be able to see any changes five products, vehicles, grain, forest, optical instruments and jewellery has been chosen. With the Grubel-Lloyd index the products will be analysed and the index will also measure the extent of the intra-industry trade between Sweden and Russia

Theories predict that countries with similar factor endowments and income tend to have a two-way trade which would indicate that Russia is starting to catch up to the industrialised countries, in this thesis that would be Sweden. The theory of income effects predicts that when consumers are getting a larger budget they will start to move away from the most necessary goods and towards more luxury good consumption.

Preferential Trade Agreements (PTAs) affect both the pattern of trade and the location choices of Foreign Direct Investment (FDI). Thus, the formation of a PTA may have adverse effects on the excluded countries and result in inter-regional tax competition. Nonetheless, this connection has not so far been fully analysed in the literature. This thesis is an attempt to fill in this gap in the theoretical literature by examining the effects of the formation of a PTA on the location of industry and welfare of the countries involved, as well as investigating the impact of subsequent policy responses that may arise as a result of the adverse effects of the formation of a PTA. We motivate our theoretical analysis we first conduct a preliminary empirical study to investigate whether a recent decline in the statutory rates of corporation income tax (CIT) is caused by tax policy interactions among countries. To do so, we use data for 21 EU countries from 2000 to 2009 to carry out an econometric analysis of tax policy interactions among EU countries. Our results support the hypothesis that some European countries’ governments used statutory CIT rates to compete against other countries. We also find that, at the individual country level, the high personal income tax rate countries use the effective marginal tax rate while the lower personal income tax rate countries use the CIT rate to compete over attracting investment. We then construct a three-country general equilibrium model based on the New Economic Geography approach to analyse the possible effects of the formation of a PTA as well as the effects of the subsequent policy responses. We consider the situation in which two of the countries form a PTA and the third country acts as the ‘rest of the world’. The simulation results suggest that: - An eradication of intra-tariff between PTAs member countries always attracts investments from the excluded country.- A rise in the external tariff rate - by the excluded country – is not an effective policy to retain investments, where firms already agglomerate in PTA area.- The excluded country’s government has no incentive to reduce its CIT rate if the external tariffs are sufficiently high. Our theoretical setup also enables us to show that PTA member countries may respond to the reduction of the excluded country’s CIT rates. Specifically, the scenario in which only one of the member countries engages in tax competition with the excluded country, while another member keeps imposing its status quo CIT rate, the most innovative part of our contribution, can be used to explain the difference in CIT rates observed within the EU in which, in the presence of virtually free intra-EU trade, some members impose very low CIT rates and are able to attract a large portion of investments whilst other EU countries choose to maintain higher CIT rates.

Iran's economy is characterized by over dependence on the oil sector. Iran has been gradually growing into a centre for production of petrochemicals in the world. Petrochemical industry is one of the significant components of oil industry and is one of the principal industries in Iran which has an influential role in Iran's economy. Although it is widely acknowledged that exports, particularly through manufactured components, play an important role as a potential source of economic growth. Hence, the aim of this research is to analysis the impact of petrochemical products export revenue on economic growth. Therefore the main objective of this research is the study of export-led growth hypothesis (ELG hypothesis) of Iran's economy in the petrochemical industry by taking a time series data for the period of 1990-2010. It applies ordinary least square (OLS) method to investigate the relationship between gross domestic product, exports of petrochemical products, real exchange rate and inflation. The results of the study show that there is a positive relationship between export of petrochemical products and economic growth which validate export-led growth hypothesis in petrochemical industry while negative impact of inflation and real exchnage rate is observed. Furthermore, in this study SWOT analysis of the Iran petrochemical industry is presented.

This dissertation addresses specific issues on domestic and foreign trade in India. The three chapters of the dissertation are summarized as follows. In the first chapter, we analyze the existence of regional wage differences across Indian states, and how domestic trade affects those premiums. We follow a two-step estimation process used in the literature on Labor Economics. Our empirical results show that higher level of domestic imports tends to reduce the state premiums, and higher domestic exports increase those premiums, which is consistent with a specific factor Ricardo-Viner model. Thus, promoting domestic trade by with states specializing in certain industries may lead to higher welfare within the country. In addition, we find, state premiums depend negatively on state-level amenities measured by per-capita power availability, and does not depend on the richness of the State measured by per-capita Net State Domestic Product. In the second chapter, we look at the pattern and determinants of inter-state manufacturing trade in India. In the paper, we use information on 12 manufacturing industries categorized under 5 sectors from 2005 to 2013 with two-year intervals in between. We find that a 1\% decrease in income ratio between importing state net state domestic product and exporting state net domestic product has significantly varying effects on trade flows across the different sectors. For coal and minerals, the effect is 36.8%, for chemical it is 105%, for metals it is 31.5% and for cement, it is 36.8%. In all these case a decrease in income ratio increases exports. For machinery, a 1% decrease in income ratio lead to approximately 9.3% reduction in trade. This suggests that machineries which are capital goods are more imported by richer states, whereas the other goods which can be classified as intermediate inputs are more imported by poorer states. We also find that infrastructure promotes trade and on average infrastructure reduces the effect of contiguity by around 28.6% and promotes trade even between non-contiguous states. Therefore, infrastructure in the form of roadways, highways, and railways must be built and maintained to promote facilitate trade in India. In chapter three, we compare the effects of tariffs and non-tariff barriers on Indian exports. We use Indian HS-96 four-digit industry level export data from COMTRADE and tariff data from TRAINS database for the study. The overall result suggests that input tariffs have the largest effect on exports, followed by final tariff and foreign tariffs. A 1% reduction in input tariff leads to around 8.6% increase in exports. A similar reduction in final tariffs and foreign tariffs lead to 3.6% and 2.8% increase, respectively in exports. Thus, we conclude that the supply side effect of exports dominates the demand side effects. From a policy perspective, if countries try to improve trade balance by imposing high tariffs, it may lead to a negative effect on exports through the input tariff effects.

ABSTRACT Microbial enzymes have been used for decades in a number of processes in the industrial, biomedical, environmental, and agro-food sectors. The dehairing phase of the leather tanning process is currently mediated by sulphur/sulphides chemicals, requiring expensive and complex procedures for water depollution and increasing safety risks for workers. This project is aimed at the development of a microbially-driven process for hair removal based on secreted enzymes. The first phase of the project consisted in the isolation of microorganisms naturally present on raw hides (cow skin) and displaying dehairing ability. A collection of 52 pure bacterial isolates was first screened for proteolytic activity (25 positive isolates) and then for their ability to grow on minimal media (10 positive isolates). The genome of these 10 isolates was sequenced and the supernatants containing secreted enzymes (and potential other metabolites) were tested for enzymatic activity and dehairing capacity at a laboratory scale. The secretome analysis reported the presence of more than 200 secreted proteins for each isolate and showed an increase in the release of hydrolytic enzymes during growth on minimal media. Further selection among the 10 isolates was based on proteomic analysis, pilot scale dehairing tests and yields after the downstream process The 4 isolates, selected on the base of the unhairing ability, secretome analysis and downstream yields, were subjected to further characterization to choose the most promising for the desired activity. Isolate 1Dm15, selected for the dehairing ability demonstrated at pilot scale, was grown in bioreactor and once the parameters were defined a scale-up of the process was performed. In conclusion, in this work we identified a Bacillus sp. strain able to grow on minimal media and secrete a pool of enzymes active in the dehairing of hides. This microbially driven process shows promising application in the industrial practice substituting the use of reducing agents.

ABSTRACT Microbial enzymes have been used for decades in a number of processes in the industrial, biomedical, environmental, and agro-food sectors. The dehairing phase of the leather tanning process is currently mediated by sulphur/sulphides chemicals, requiring expensive and complex procedures for water depollution and increasing safety risks for workers. This project is aimed at the development of a microbially-driven process for hair removal based on secreted enzymes. The first phase of the project consisted in the isolation of microorganisms naturally present on raw hides (cow skin) and displaying dehairing ability. A collection of 52 pure bacterial isolates was first screened for proteolytic activity (25 positive isolates) and then for their ability to grow on minimal media (10 positive isolates). The genome of these 10 isolates was sequenced and the supernatants containing secreted enzymes (and potential other metabolites) were tested for enzymatic activity and dehairing capacity at a laboratory scale. The secretome analysis reported the presence of more than 200 secreted proteins for each isolate and showed an increase in the release of hydrolytic enzymes during growth on minimal media. Further selection among the 10 isolates was based on proteomic analysis, pilot scale dehairing tests and yields after the downstream process The 4 isolates, selected on the base of the unhairing ability, secretome analysis and downstream yields, were subjected to further characterization to choose the most promising for the desired activity. Isolate 1Dm15, selected for the dehairing ability demonstrated at pilot scale, was grown in bioreactor and once the parameters were defined a scale-up of the process was performed. In conclusion, in this work we identified a Bacillus sp. strain able to grow on minimal media and secrete a pool of enzymes active in the dehairing of hides. This microbially driven process shows promising application in the industrial practice substituting the use of reducing agents.

DS Leathers, a leather manufacturing venture is faced with a challenge of penetrating the highly competitive leather industry. This study attempts to investigate what it will take for DS leathers to succeed, how can DS Leathers become more effective than its competitors in creating, delivering and communicating customer value? The study investigates the needs of DS Leathers prospective customers, analyzes the leather industry dynamics, key success factors and DS Leathers resources. A customer-focused company first investigates what its potential customer's desires are, and then builds the product or service. It was therefore pertinent for DS Leathers to pursue this exercise in order to be able to make informed strategic marketing decisions. The study lays a foundation and a framework for DS Leathers marketing management by reviewing a set of core concepts that are perceives as being fundamental to creation solid foundation for successful marketing. Concepts discussed include the development of marketing strategies and plans, capturing marketing insights, connecting with customers, building with strong brands, shaping market offering, delivering value, communicating value and creating long - term growth. The findings are that the industry is highly competitive with a lot global players. It is recommended that DS Leathers should focus on footwear and furniture segments, initially supplying the local government whilst developing its skills and its brand. The conclusion reached is that DS Leathers can achieve success by investing towards its attitudinal resources and superior skills, developing them into distinctive competencies for delivery of superior value.
Thesis (MBA)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, 2006.

Thesis (M.B.A.)-Business Studies Unit, Durban Institute of Technology, 2006 viii, 105 leaves
The South African automotive leather export sewing industry was established in about 1991, when domestic firms were exposed to international markets. The industry’s success was largely attributed to the relatively cheap labour, infrastructure, leather and tax incentives given by the South African government. Interest in investment shown by multinational companies has resulted in significant growth in the industry today. However, at one time, the socio-political status in South Africa meant that the environment in which the industry developed was artificial. Economic, political and cultural conditions were not conducive to export manufacturing due to international sanctions. Consequently, the leather export industry was provided with an opportunity to integrate into the international arena primarily through the Motor Industry Development Programme (MIDP). The MIDP initiative allows South African automotive companies to offset import duties against exports. This duty offset programme aims to encourage firms to focus on high volume production runs and import less popular models that are expensive to produce locally. However, with the inclusion of the Eastern European countries into the European Union, it is expected that the market will become highly competitive. It has already been predicted by Ballard (2002) in a study on the South African leather business that the automotive leather sewing export industry is an “easy-come-easy-go” industry, with its success not linked to any intrinsic advantages South Africa possesses, but due to rebates from the Motor Industry Development Programme. Although South Africa has a number of advantages such as relatively cheap labour, material in leather hides, and a good infrastructure, the automotive sewing industry has yet to establish its efficiency when exposed to open market competition. Therefore, to create a perception of stability for international investors, the industry must seek contact with outside partners for market access, technology and process know-how through collaboration and benchmarking. This study therefore aims to develop a discourse related specifically to the sustainability of the leather export sewing industry as it approaches deregulation.

Thesis (M.B.A.)-Business Studies Unit, Durban University of Technology, 2006 x, 68 leaves
The purpose of this study is to identify the training needs of leather technicians with the aim of supporting corporate competitive advantage within their company. Identifying competencies is an essential first step towards developing a training programme and to support corporate competitive advantage.

The objective of strategic management is to enable an organisation to assess its strategic position. This study is concerned with identifying the strategic position of Branaa South Africa, and to determine the most suitable expansion strategy in order for the company to increase the current level of monetary benefits offered to Original Equipment Manufacturers under the Motor Industry Development Program. An in-depth literature review is conducted and the relevant business management tools are identified. These tools are used to analyse the position of the company and to evaluate how the current benefits offered, compare to those of competitors. An analysis is carried out regarding the influence and value of the Motor Industry Development Program benefits. A costing model is then applied to determine how competitive Branaa South Africa is in the automotive leather seat market. The study determines how the benefits offered under the current Motor Industry Development Program structure could be increased in the South African Automotive market, and concludes with proposals on how to achieve new targets. This study aims to prove that the strategic direction that Branaa South Africa is envisaging is correct. The company should continue to gain a competitive advantage under the current strategic goals which are reviewed annually. Through the effective use of strategic management principles, and applying these to Branaa South Africa, the company would retain its competitive advantage in the South African Automotive market.
Thesis (MBA)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, 2006.

The South African leather industry has undergone a significant transformation since the 1990’s and this can be attributed primarily owing to two major factors that occurred. The first being trade liberalisation, which meant the fall of trade barriers, and the second being the Motor Industry Development Programme (MIDP), which was implemented in South Africa on 1 September 1995. The MIDP was implemented in the context of the country’s political and economic liberalisation, and the major structural shift in government policy and the trade regime. South Africa became much more globally integrated and the South African leather industry benefited because of this, as well as the incentives that was offered under the MIDP. Automotive exports of stitched leather seat parts responded positively to the incentives offered under the MIDP and stitched leather seat parts, as a component under the MIDP, became one of the best performing components being exported from South Africa. The MIDP had been terminated at the end of 2012 and is now being followed by government’s latest rendition of automotive policy, namely the Automotive Production and Development Programme (APDP). The APDP focuses on value addition, which pursues beneficiation of the country’s raw materials to the final stages, to ensure maximum benefit to the South African economy. The findings of the study entail that the South African leather industry is now in a vulnerable state because of the new automotive policy. This is mainly because the APDP does not provide the same level, or type, of incentives that the MIDP had provided to the industry.
Business Management
M. Com. (Business Management)

The thesis concerns the persistent coupling of formal and informal industrial relations within a particular manufacturing company. At first, the company's formal structure of industrial relations was heavily tempered by the operation of informal cross cutting ties. The resultant system of industrial relations was one that might be regarded as a hybrid, integrating formal and informal networks of relationships within the organization of the factory. The quite discernible ethos of informality or paternalism remained largely unchallenged by the rather facilitating political conditions that prevailed at the time. However, the political climate has, in the last decade or so, been subject to considerable pressure that has resulted in some far reaching and fundamental changes to the political order of the country. The emergent political conditions have enforced upon the company the need for change. The essence of such changes were perceived to hinge upon the transformation of the company's system of industrial relations. The transformation entailed the establishment of a more overtly formal system of industrial relations, separating the formal and informal relations which had becomes inextricably entwined. However, the objectives of such changes were never quite achieved. The distinction between the formal and informal industrial relations remained submerged in the melee of intergroup contestation. The various interest groups in the factory context appropriated the division between formal and informal industrial relations, enabling these groups to phrase their industrial strategies within an idiom most contextually appropriate. What emerged was an extension of this tendency to merge formal and informal industrial relations.
Thesis (M.A.)-University of Natal, Durban, 1995.

Traditional trade theories, such as the Ricardian and Heckscher-Ohlin models, posit that comparative advantage determines a country’s industrial structure in a liberalized trade environment. However, developments in contemporary trade theory challenge the central tenants of this approach. Ricardian and Heckscher-Ohlin models assume that industries are comprised of homogeneous firms that can be modeled using a representative firm. Under this conception, industrial evolution is driven by comparative advantages. However, empirical evidence of post-liberalisation industrial change indicates that industrial performance is significantly more variable than predicted by traditional models. Even within industries, firms exhibit markedly divergent performance. The new trade theory of heterogeneous firms thus argues that there are fundamental differences between firms, even within narrowly defined industries, and these differences drive a post-liberalisation churning process that results in the reallocation of capital and labour within an industry. This study takes an innovative approach. Instead of comparing productivity across a large sample of firms in different industries, it uses a case study to examine, in depth, the differences between firms within a particular industry. The industry selected for the study is the South African footwear manufacturing sector. The study employs qualitative research techniques to interrogate the applicability of the new trade theory of heterogeneous firms and, importantly, to investigate the scope for constructive development policy. It finds that there are marked differences between firms in the South African footwear manufacturing sector, and provides evidence that these differences matter. Additionally, it finds evidence of intra-industry reallocations in the period following trade liberalisation. These findings are significant in that they emphasise that in a liberalised trade environment, individual firms possess agency that allows them to develop a competitive advantage that may run contrary to the comparative advantage of the country in which they operate. These findings are helpful in developing a more accurate understanding of trade liberalisation dynamics, and they support the argument for industrial policy support in strategic industries.
Thesis (M.Dev.Studies)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Durban, 2012.