Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Linen'

'The Fabric of Life: Linen and Life Cycle in England, 1678-1810' is structured around the human life cycle to draw out the social and cultural importance of linen for all ranks of society. Human and object life cycles are juxtaposed in the thesis to analyse co-dependent activities and processes rather than focusing on one facet of daily life. For thousands of years flax was a staple fibre, used for textile production in many parts of the globe. Cotton only overtook linen as the most popular textile in England at home and on the body during the nineteenth century. This thesis examines the preceding century to reveal why linen remained a daily necessity in England between 1678 and 1810, a period which encompassed a series of significant changes in the production, trade and use of linen. Linen was ubiquitous as underwear, sheets, table linens and for logistical purposes therefore it provides a unique insight into the early-modern world; a means of understanding the multifaceted experiences of daily life, of integrating understandings of the body, domestic, social, cultural and commercial activities. This thesis is social history through the lens of linen, reading a society through its interactions with a textile.

Bibliography: leaves 80-84.
This dissertation is about the power of tradition to influence domestic behavioural norms in Swaziland. I set out to demonstrate that, although the Swaziland Action Group Against Abuse (SWAGAA) has rendered itself indispensable to Swazi women, it still has a long way to go before realising its goal of the empowerment of abused women. This is due, primarily, to the organisation's adherence to international standards of women's human rights which cannot readily be applied in the particular context of Swaziland because they are resisted by those who seek to preserve what is claimed to be the traditional order. SWAGAA's counselling service is based on the premise that if an abused woman can be encouraged to make an informed, independent decision then she will have been empowered to take control of her life, and, ultimately, to free herself of the abuse. I argue that this approach, despite good intentions, is highly unrealistic in the locality of Swaziland. When a woman attempts to confront gender andlor domestic violence using the empowerment approach advocated by SWAGAA, she comes up against a number of entrenched ideological and practical constraints that undermine her power to negotiate. Foremost amongst these is the strong negative responses to any practice of 'airing dirty linen in public', such as consulting SWAGAA, for which a woman may be severely chastised. Women are reprimanded for seeking counsel beyond what are regarded as family boundaries because, they are told, by the police and by those around them, that this is inconsistent with acceptable and normative 'traditional' practice. I argue that the pressure placed upon women to adhere to practices of social organisation which are upheld as traditional, is rooted in a legacy of mistrust of foreign ideologies and practices. The leadership of the country has been, and continues to be engaged in an ongoing struggle to retain some semblance of what it regards as the traditional order. SWAGAA comes up directly against this legacy. Firstly, the women whom they counsel are constrained from making the individualistic decisions that SWAGAA wishes them to make. Secondly, women themselves are so embroiled in a social situation where men act as their advocates that they do not easily relate to the idea of individual empowerment. Yet SWAGAA persists with an approach that tries to undermine everyday normative practices, rather than working within the parameters of those norms. Its radical approach renders SWAGAA's counselling service too ambitious in Swaziland. What I thus advocate is an incremental approach that aims, gradually, to encourage women to empower themselves, given the persistence of the ideological and practical resistance to those attempts.

The counterfeit phenomenon was analyzed in this magisterial work, and was interpretation made of it. In any museum appears to discover some forgeries that can be clarified only with time though time can veil it. Forgeries are made usually by faired people who lengthened manner or style of one or another famous artist. On one glance to history is clear, that the phenomenon of adulteration is popular in these quarters, where finances and profit are in hand also in the world of art. This phenomenon does not passes neither history nor politics. Some myths and legends are so vital, that it can encourage the modern man to a fantasies, that embolden to falsification of a facts. The rigging is not only material wealth, but intellectual property can be rigged too. Though the religious society declaring Christian moralities speak against any inferiority or lying and cheating, there are facts of its members can not resist a temptation to firm up their positions in peoples harts by invoking worldly unfair games. The erect hypothesis approved there for the proposition can be made that so widely spread forgery is not popular as a peace of art itself. There is gathered and systematized information allows to make an abstract opinion on forgery in this magisterial work. The oeuvre part of this magisterial work “Fake” is important up to date this theme was not used as artificial expression, there for it can become not only an object of exhibitions, but perform the social function:... [to full text]

From the fourteenth century, diaper napery with small geometric patterns was imported from the Low Countries. Towards 1450, the drawloom was adapted in Flanders to weave white linen damasks with figurative patterns. These were expensive and initially covered the tables of the great. During the seventeenth century, new centres of manufacture in Germany provided cheaper figured table linens which were increasingly bought by the 'middling sort'. Dining was always more than the simple provision of sustenance whether for a king publicly 'to glase his glorie' or a merchant privately 'for love or business'. Dining ceremony which responded to these different purposes and to changing concepts of hospitality and civility, generated the furniture of the dining chamber and in turn the supplies of napery. This thesis examines the changing requirements for table linens using courtesy and household books in conjunction with a data set of some one thousand inventories. The patterns of importation by both English and stranger merchants are drawn from the London port books. Responses to the military situation on the continent and customs rates at home are considered, together with the degree to which a fashionable luxury commodity determined the trading strategies of individual merchants. The distribution of table linen is appraised including the dominant role of London linen drapers. This is followed by an evaluation of its changing ownership and the effect of differential rates of inflation of various household goods upon consumer preferences. The results are set within the context of the discussion of conspicuous consumption both by contemporary commentators such as William Harrison and the modem protagonists in the debate on the 'consumer revolution'. By linking pattern descriptions in inventories with surviving linens, the range of damasks sold in England is delineated and the influence of religious and political attitudes upon subject and design explored.

An understanding of the physical and chemical nature of archaeological textiles is an important prerequisite for their successful conservation treatment, display and storage. Ancient Egyptian linen textiles were examined through a combination of optical microscopy, environmental scanning electron microscopy (ESEM), ion chromatography (IC), and energy dispersive X-ray analysis (EDXA). These analytical techniques were used to distinguish between flax fibres, foreign matter present on and within flax fibres, and natron or other salts absorbed into the linen fibres in a form of partial mineralization. The use of ESEM enabled the observation and recording of the movement of salts, in real time, during cycles of hydration and dehydration. Few studies have been undertaken to date on the dynamics of salt crystallisation within organic archaeological materials, and none previous to this has been published showing the dynamics of salt crystallisation within archaeological textiles. Once the dynamics of salt crystallisation were viewed and recorded it became possible to investigate methods for the treatment of salt affected textiles through washing trials followed by alternative methods of drying. The release of salts from linen samples during washing in deionized water was monitored using IC and ESEM with EDXA, showing the pattern of salt removal and retention. The use of IC, ESEM and EDXA to monitor salt removal in textiles has not previously been reported. A conservation treatment for ancient Egyptian linen was developed, incorporating a long water washing to remove salts, soils and organic deposits, followed immediately by carefully controlled freeze drying. This was effective in preserving the integrity of the ancient linen. By combining archaeological, historical and chemical data, this pilot study of the effects of salts upon and within linen textiles has widened our understanding of the role played by salts in both the deterioration and the preservation of the textiles.

The thesis deals with a design of an up-to-date commercial laundry with focus on equipments applied. The proces is studied and analysed throughly first. Important aspects for choice of equipments are mentioned (i.e. steam, power and natural gas consumptions. These informations are summarized from data sheets provided by manufacturers as well as from experimental measurements in existing facilities.

The purpose of this thesis is to contribute to an increased understanding of the underlying conditions for the development of a domestic market for consumer goods by studying how the distribution of goods between the town and the countryside in the county of Hälsingland, Sweden, was organized during the first half of the 19th century. The thesis has analyzed the different kinds of persons involved in the distribution of goods, their functions and mutual relations. In order to examine how the trade was organized on the individual level, a case study of one Hudiksvall merchant’s trading business has been done. This has made possible an analysis of how the two-way trade carried on by the majority of the merchants in the region was organized. In broad outline, this trade involved the merchants purchasing linen goods in the countryside for further selling in Stockholm and other markets on the one hand, and on the other purchasing different kinds of consumer goods in these markets to sell in the countryside of Hälsingland.

The conclusion drawn from this study is that the conditions for distributing goods really were in a phase of change, where the possibilities of carrying out trade gradually increased, which meant that different kinds of trade and different kinds of traders operated side by side.

Furthermore, the trade was in many aspects less hierarchic and more horizontally organized than has been suggested by previous research. The individual merchant’s business depended on other traders, where the individuals involved in different ways played a very concrete role in the success of each merchant’s business. This means that the relationship between different traders was characterized by both competition and co-operation. Sometimes merchants engaged other merchants as middlemen on remote markets; on other occasions they took the middleman’s role in relation to other merchants.

The following internship report is an overview of the Contemporary Arts Center (CAC). As a requirement of the Arts Administration Graduate Program at the University of New Orleans, I completed a 480-hour internship spanning three months in the center’s development and membership department. This report combines observational research with the knowledge gained from my studies and subjective research to provide an analysis of the CAC’s current position, strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats, and provides recommendations on how the center can address specific issues with operations and financial management in order to grow as an organization in the future.

Having a personal connection through several family members to the life and work of Ngaanyatjarra Elder Mr Ward, I found his death in custody in outback Western Australia unsettling and incomprehensible. As the circumstances of his death were revealed, I became aware of glaring omissions in the telling of his story and the circumstances that led to his death. Through my engagement with the subsequent media reporting, official documents and personal conversations, I recognised a profound lack of understanding of difference and otherness within a shared history and space in Western Australia. The initial aim of my project was to investigate the incomprehensible through the lens of Ngaanyatjarra Elder Mr Ward’s death; however, ethically, this proved a difficult path to negotiate. Through my research, I came to understand that the continued use of the dominant language of the coloniser, which is embedded in social practices and academic discourse is, in part, continuing to perpetuate white privilege. The ethical problems raised inspired me to develop an approach, which although oblique, would nevertheless enable fresh insight into otherness and difference in a multi-cultural society. The particular concern of this practice-led research project is not to exploit the trauma of others but to raise awareness of this social space through my work, giving rise to new understandings and possible relations. This research gathered key texts from Walter Benjamin and Theodor Adorno, to facilitate the transfer of the written form of Denkbild, a literary device manipulating the codes of language to visualise the process of thought, into a painting practice. The Denkbild (thought-image) is a Euro-centric genre of exploratory philosophical writing, crafted in response to a society witnessing tremendous change as a result of the devastating impact of WWI and WWII. Through this creative project, the challenge was to re-activate the Denkbild through painting and accompanying text to investigate deaths in custody and interrogate the connected issues of ethics, politics and inequality, which is written into the shared spaces of Western Australia. The Denkbild is then developed further with the addition of Henri Lefebvre’s threedimensional spatial application of dialectical thinking and the creative practice of selected Australian artists. Through this addition, the binary dialectical framework of the Denkbild is expanded to reflect contemporary thinking on the concept of space as a social product. This perspective emerges to enable fresh insight into Aboriginal understandings of space as representing an ‘eternal now’, such that a mutual understanding of space is manifested. My painting practice reflects and informs this transition, as I moved from the painting studio to selected locations to record information and experiences that developed my research position. To achieve the project’s aims, I engaged in reflexivity and praxis as the methodological tools to guide my research. Through painting, my research extended across interdisciplinary fields including visual arts practices, philosophical history and literature, to interrogate a spatial dynamic, revealing marginalised insights and connecting interrelationships between sites. For the purpose of this research, the paintings, exhibitions and exegesis function on two levels: as an avenue into mediation of Western Australian culture and as a methodological approach to visual art practice. My research culminated in the exhibition, Ghostcards of WA 2017 at the Spectrum Project Space, ECU, Mount Lawley. This project is significant as it renews the Denkbild to further the unique relationship between conceptual and representational categories that binds together experience, object and practice to form an interrogative tool for critical inquiry. In the application of this method to a Western Australian context, new thinking is encouraged through the inclusive reading of space and the collapsing of misunderstandings perpetuated in historicism through a shared recognition of the inherent value of space/sites which— far from being incomprehensible, reactive, nostalgic and solipsistic—are comprehensible, active, prescient, abundant and social.

This research investigates the creative use of expressive drapery and textiles, and in particular the line of washing, in three films that have rich displays of fabrics and costume: The Piano (dir. Jane Campion, 1993), The Governess (dir. Sandra Goldbacher, 1998) and Girl with a Pearl Earring (dir. Peter Webber, 2003); and provides the inspiration for a series of short films that explore positive and negative aspects of clotheslines and textiles. The research areas of Film Costume, Fashion Studies and Art History each provide relevant context and background to the study of the clothes and linens in the three films under consideration. Significant themes that are considered include: cinema’s ambivalent relationship with costume; dress, undress and the male gaze; representations of historical and character-coded clothing; the expression of fantasy and desire through textiles and costume; and the contribution of art history towards creating an understanding of fabrics that denote a separation between the ordinary and extraordinary and between reality and an imaginary sphere. Mary Ann Doane’s study of the gaze at the interface of the interior and exterior of the home in the ‘woman’s film’ leads her to consider the frequent portrayal of women waiting by or looking through windows in relation to Freud’s theory of The Uncanny and leads me to recognize that the line of washing in cinema also denotes the limits of a woman’s space within the grounds of her home and marks a formal boundary between the familiar and the unknown. Similarly, the line of washing reflects notions of The 5 Uncanny in displays that portray tensions between the opposing themes of the seen and unseen, the spoken and unspoken, of presence and absence and of purity and contamination. The idea of familiar clothes and linens displayed on the line of washing as alternately comforting and disconcerting has become the focus of my practice. Some of the works have been shown individually during the course of this study in group and open art exhibitions, and a solo exhibition at Galeri Caernarfon 15th January – 24th February 2017 showed the collected short films and supporting material resulting from the research.

In today’s society, textile producers and manufacturers strive to use as little harmful chemicals as possible in their finishing of textiles. Though, producing a completely chemical free fabric is nearly impossible, many companies work actively to scan and evaluate alternatives to chemical substances that have a negative effect on the environment and the human health.Prior preparations for the practical part of this project were conducted in a literature study, which entailed studying articles based on similar projects. Practical information was attained from the mentors at IKEA and from contact with the suppliers of the tested resins. A study of alternative methods of testing the resistance to creasing of textiles was conducted to the benefit of IKEA. A practical evaluation of the smoothness appearance of the test specimens resulted in a development of this existing method.To reassure the quality of the scan, obtained resins weretreated on cellulosic weaves, and later on evaluated based on demands IKEA has for easy care treated textiles. The demands concerning the content of formaldehyde and the grade of smoothness appearance retained after ten washes where followed throughout the whole project. The evaluation was conducted based on several quality tests made on the treated weave. This resulted in a recommendation of four different resins for IKEA to further investigate.
Program: Textilingenjörsutbildningen

O objetivo deste trabalho e o desenvolvimento de roupas utilizando malha de linho para uso como primeira camada em contato direto com o corpo em usuários com dermatite atópica. Roupas disponíveis para essas pessoas com pele sensível, incluindo algumas com algodão, muitas vezes provocam irritação na pele e uma malha de linho pode ser uma boa opção de uso, com base em suas reconhecidas propriedades de contato saudável ao corpo humano, principalmente em climas quentes. Protótipos de malhas consideradas pelo autor como clássicas ou oclusivas e outras como não oclusivas foram produzidas com algodão, fibras descontinuas de poliéster e linho em estrutura jérsei de malharia circular. As malhas foram confeccionadas em roupas para um teste de uso experimental em 4 crianças entre 5-8 anos de idade, sendo 2 delas saudáveis e duas com dermatite atópica, previamente avaliadas por um dermatologista. O resultado final demonstrou um bom grau de tolerância por todos os usuários quanto ao uso da malha com linho em contato direto com a pele. As malhas não oclusivas foram as que apresentaram os melhores índice de permeabilidade ao ar,atributo que pode evitar o bloqueio da transpiração insensível durante rotinas diárias, minimizando o abafamento, desconforto térmico e potencial gatilho de irritação da pele. Câmera infravermelha foi utilizada como uma ferramenta adicional na Avaliação térmica durante o uso. Os resultados sugerem que a malha com linho não oclusiva e uma opção viavel de uso pelos portadores de dermatite atópica em clima subtropical como o da cidade de São Paulo. O controle da estabilidade dimensional da malha com linho e amaciantes naturais amigáveis a pele para a lavagem domestica das roupas são desafios que devem ser equacionados em futuros desenvolvimentos
Linen (Linum usitatissimum L.) in single jersey of circular knitting machine for wearer with atopic dermatitis in subtropical climate The purpose of this work is the development of first layer linen knitted structure aiming wearers with Atopic Dermatitis (AD). Available clothing for these sensitive skin people, including some cotton garments, very often presents skin irritation and linen is an option based upon it recognized friendly contact to human body and comfortable wear during hot climates. Classic or occlusive and non-occlusive garments prototypes knitted in single jersey of circular knitting machines with cotton, polyester staple and linen fibers were designed to accomplish an experimental wear test with 4 children with 5-8 years old, 2 with AD and 2 health kids. Voluntaries showed good wear tolerance to knitted linen that presented highest air permeability index that can help to avoid blocking of insensible perspiration during daily routine, minimizing buffering effect and potential trigger of skin irritation. Infrared camera was used as an additional tool for thermal evaluation during use. Results suggest that non-occlusive knitted linen is a possible option for AD wears at subtropical climate like the city of Sao Paulo. Dimensional stability control of nonhocclusive knitted linen and natural home laundry softeners are challenges to be overcome in future developments

This thesis focuses on a group of towels from the textile design program Linnelinjen (''the Linen-line'') from 1955. Linnelinjen was a collaboration between the department store Nordiska Kompaniet and the textile manufacturer Almedahl-Dalsjöfors. The first collection, renowned as a modern version of the traditional stock of linen, was created by textile designers Astrid Sampe and Marianne Nilson. The thesis is divided into three main parts. Firstly, through archive studies, the towel collection of Linnelinjen 1955 is mapped and described. This basic research throws new light on Linnelinjen, by emphasizing less known products in the collection. Secondly, the towel design is analysed to reveal in what aspects it can be considered modern. Through this analysis, the modern traits of the towel design are found to be connected to the towels' transformation from anonymous household articles to unique design products. Finally, the symbolic function of the towels in the modern home and household is analysed. The line of argument in this last part is based on the concept of myth, as used in the design theory of Adrian Forty. It illustrates how the modern Linnelinjen towels, thanks to their specific field of application, may reconcile the vision of the home as a haven of rest with the conflicting reality of household work.

Ce travail a porté sur la production de nanocristaux de cellulose (NCC) et de nanofibres de cellulose (NFC) à partir d’anas de lin.La production de NCC a été réalisée par hydrolyse acide avec de l’HCl gazeux après blanchiment. L’analyse des résultats de DRX et RMN montrent que la forme des cristallites reste inchangée après l’hydrolyse malgré une faible co-cristallisation le long des faces hydrophiles. La spectroscopie IR en température après un échange isotopique montre que le ratio de matériau marqué évolue avec la température de manière différente selon qu’il s’agit d’anas blanchis ou de NCC. Avant hydrolyse, des pores dans lesquels de l’eau est piégée sont mis en évidence. Cette nature de pore est absente des NCC. Lors d’un séchage, une partie des chaînes peut co-cristalliser et piéger une partie des groupements hydroxyles deutéres ; ce piégeage n’est plus mesurable une fois le matériau hydrolysé. Ces résultats montrent une meilleure stabilité des NCC lors de cycles de séchage/humidification.Afin de produire des NFC, une défibrillation mécanique a été réalisée sans délignification préalable et après un gonflement des anas dans des liquides gonflants. La caractérisation microscopique a démontré que la production de suspensions de NFC sans prétraitement supplémentaire des anas n’était pas viable. La DRX prouve néanmoins que les agents gonflants combinés à la défibrillation peuvent diminuer de manière importante la cristallinité du matériau. La spectroscopie IR a démontré que le matériau était séparé en deux phases à l’issue du traitement, et l’une des phases est significativement plus riche en lignine
The present work investigates the potential of flax shives for the production of nanocelluloses. Two methods were investigated in order to produce cellulose nanocrystals (CNC) and cellulose nanofibers (CNF). The CNC production was conducted in two steps: a bleaching step and an exposure to an HCl vapour. Rietveld analysis of the diffractograms and 13C NMR proved that the shape of the crystallites wasn’t affected by the hydrolysis despite a slight co-crystallisation along the hydrophilic faces. FTIR spectroscopy demonstrated ample dependence of the ratio of deuterium-labelled sites with temperature. This ratio depends on the substrate topology. The « native » continuous microfibril topology implies pores that can trap water. In contrast, a discrete rod-like topology cannot trap water: the hydrophilic faces that were “stabilized” by co-crystallisation are unable to trap water. Drying hysteresis is usually observed after an isotopic re-exchange experiment: the labelled polymer chains co-crystallize and some of them become inaccessible to re-exchange. This hysteresis wasn’t observed after hydrolysis. The production of CNF was performed with an ultrafine grinder after swelling. Four swelling agents were selected after an initial screening involving more than 40 different liquids. Optical microscopy and SEM demonstrated the intrinsic difficulty of producing CNF from such a lignin-rich substrate without any pre-treatment. The combination of ultrafine grinding and swelling was however capable of reducing the sample crystallinity to a large extent. FTIR demonstrated that a lignin-rich phase could be produced using this mechanical process

The main aim of this thesis is to provide and explore main factors that affect a drying process. The first part contains brief description of the drying process and focuses on a convectional industrial drying process. The following section discusses the theory of an experiment planning followed by an experiment design of the compact tumble industrial dryer. The thesis also includes an exact description of the executed experiment, then outputs of the measurements and model characterizing the drying process of the tested dryer. The last part deals with the methodology and recommendations for the measurements in operating conditions.

Productive Plants Maintenance is a strategic function of industrial realities that aims to ensure the regular functioning and good conservation of productive equipment. (OSCE, 1993); in particular, it comprehends all technical and administrative techniques, including controlling activities, that aim to restore to and/or maintain an item in a condition in which it can performed the required function (UNI9910). A company, at in a first moment, decides to invest a part of its capital in new equipment for production, to reach its core business goals and gains success; in a second moment, anyway, it is necessary to invest resources and time to guarantee its correct functioning and conservation, to satisfy the productive expectation (Pay Back). TPM (Total Productive Maintenance) is an industrial tool that comprehends all techniques and methods that aim to optimize industrial plants effectiveness, through equipment availability improvement and making downtime and failure decrease. TPM paradigm aims to increase productivity (Productive), involving all the staff (Total), through maintenance (Maintenance). TPM benefits are well known in our industries: companies that applied these techniques registered a reduction of failures of about 50%, a reduction of production loss of about 70%, the 60% of reduction of maintenance costs and, finally, 50-90% of reduction in set-up time. However its implementation in industrial realities it is not always so easy: it is necessary to take care to some critical factors that might influence the success of the project. In the world of automatic production systems, where the human factor is reduced and often useless, to involve people in equipment maintenance might be hard. Moreover, to align production and maintenance requirements, in order to optimize equipment availability, means to plan together production downtime, looking to satisfy the demand that is becoming more and more variable and uncertain, with shortest lead time. In this context, this work aims to carry out a useful framework to apply TPM in automatic production systems, in particular in Food & Beverage sector, focusing on the drivers that might influence its implementation. Food Industry, in addition to peculiarities related to the automation world, is characterized by factors related to security, safety, quality and sustainability. From literature review about many case studies of TPM Implementation it arises that the application of this paradigm on industrial realities requires a very long time and a lot of resources, and its benefits are slowly to arise. What is proposed in this work is different in the way it aims to maximize and to highlight TPM benefits in a faster way; the framework, in particular, is focused on carrying out productive equipment criticalities, through the use of various tools and techniques, to optimize and arise results. Therefore, it is propose the application of the framework to a real industrial case. Then, a second part of this work is dedicated to micro downtime analysis in automatic production flow lines. In fact, as it arises from the case study, micro downtime is the greatest cause of inefficiency in these production systems. Micro downtime can be related to technical and/or design causes, or to the normal functioning of more machines working in series with different characteristics. Sometime micro downtime inefficiency could be solved with technical solutions, if they result convenient (efficiency improvement compared to the investment proposed); in other cases it is required to evaluate the buffer size and allocation. In fact, in this sector, machines downtime might be related to lack of product in ingress ( the upstream machine is down – starving) or the excess of product in exit (the downstream machine is down – blocked). The Ph.D. thesis structure is the follow: 1. State of the art analysis about factors that influence TPM implementation in automatic production systems and about food and beverage sector peculiarities; the core objective is to identify an innovative and structured framework for TPM implementation; what is new in the proposed framework is the focus on accelerated and visible benefits. 2. TPM framework application to a real industrial case, in particular a bottling line. During the framework implementation, micro downtime arise as the core inefficiency. 3. State of the art analysis about Downtime in automatic production systems, focusing on micro downtime impact on production efficiency and machines availability. Improvement for these inefficiencies are proposed as: technical solutions related to the improvement of equipment effectiveness (CPI – Cost Performance Indicator) or evaluation of buffer sizing and location through a simulative model (BAP – Buffer Allocation Problem); 4. Micro downtime analysis applied to a real case study; construction of the CPI, when possible, and of a new simulative model to evaluate buffer sizing and allocation. It is proposed a new simulative model based on ad hoc micro downtime probability distribution (Weibull Distribution for each micro downtime). This Ph.D. Thesis has been carries out in strong collaboration with Acqua Minerale San Benedetto S.p.A., that made possible the framework implementation and data collection.
La Manutenzione degli Impianti Produttivi è una funzione strategica delle realtà industriali che ha l’obiettivo di assicurare il funzionamento regolare ed il buono stato di conservazione di questi sistemi (OSCE, 1993); in particolare, secondo la definizione UNI9910, essa comprende tutte le azioni tecniche ed amministrative, incluse le azioni di supervisione, volte a mantenere o a riportare un’entità in uno stato in cui possa eseguire la funzione richiesta. Se inizialmente un’azienda decide di investire una parte del proprio capitale nella costruzione ed avviamento di un nuovo impianto produttivo, successivamente è necessario investire tempo e risorse per il suo mantenimento, al fine di mantenere i requisiti richiesti e soddisfare le aspettative (Pay Back). Il TPM (Total Productive Maintenance) consiste in un insieme di tecniche e strumenti che hanno la funzione di ottimizzare il mantenimento degli impianti produttivi, aumentandone l’affidabilità e riducendo fermi e guasti. Il TPM mira ad aumentare la produttività degli impianti (Productive), coinvolgendo tutto il personale (Total), attraverso la manutenzione (Maintenance). I benefici del TPM sono ormai ben noti nelle industrie: le aziende che hanno implementato tale paradigma hanno registrato una riduzione dei guasti del 50%, del 70% di produzione persa, del 60 % dei costi di manutenzione e tra il 50-90% dei tempi di set-up. Tuttavia la sua implementazione non è sempre facile e diretta: è necessario porre attenzione ad alcuni fattori che possono pesantemente incidere sul successo del progetto. Per quanto riguarda il mondo degli impianti automatizzati, dove il fattore umano è ridotto e spesso estraneo, coinvolgere il personale nel mantenimento delle macchine può risultare difficoltoso. L’obiettivo di allineare esigenze produttive e manutentive, nell’ottica di ottimizzare l’affidabilità degli impianti, implica concordare fermi produttivi rispettando tempi di consegna sempre più ristretti con previsioni della domanda estremamente variabili; pertanto risulta evidente come ottimizzare la produzione attraverso la manutenzione possa essere un obiettivo ambizioso nelle realtà industriali. In tale contesto si inserisce la presente trattazione, che ha l’obiettivo di proporre un framework di applicazione di tecniche di manutenzione nel contesto degli impianti automatizzati, in particolare legato al mondo del Food & Beverage. Tale settore, oltre alle peculiarità legate al mondo automatizzato, è caratterizzato da fattori di sicurezza alimentare, elevata qualità e obiettivi a sfondo ecosostenibile. Da quanto emerso in letteratura, il processo di applicazione del TPM è lungo ed impegnativo, e spesso i suoi benefici richiedono lunghi periodi per diventare tangibili. Quanto proposto in questo lavoro si differenzia dall’attuale stato dell’arte in quanto ambisce a massimizzare ed evidenziare i benefici di tale paradigma in tempi più ristretti; il framework proposto, in particolare, mira a focalizzarsi sulle criticità degli impianti produttivi, proponendo varie tecniche risolutive al fine di massimizzare i risultati e aumentarne la visibilità. E’ poi proposta l’applicazione di tale framework ad una vera realtà industriale, quale una linea di imbottigliamento. Una seconda parte di tale lavoro è dedicata, invece, all’analisi delle micro fermate negli impianti automatizzati. Infatti, come emerso anche dal caso studio, esse rappresentano una rilevante fonte di inefficienza negli impianti automatizzati. Le microfermate possono essere di natura tecnica e/o di progetto oppure legate al normale funzionamento di più macchine con caratteristiche differenti che lavorano in sequenza. Tale inefficienza talvolta può essere risolta con soluzioni tecniche mirate e definitive, se opportunamente convenienti (recupero efficienza rispetto investimento proposto); talvolta invece è richiesta una rivalutazione del dimensionamento del Buffer tra le due stazioni di lavoro al fine di ridurre l’incisività delle micro fermate di una macchina sull’intera linea (fenomeni di starving and blocking). Nelle linee automatizzate è frequente che una macchina si trovi nelle condizioni di non poter operare per mancanza di input (starving) o per eccesso di output (blocking). La tesi è suddivisa in quattro fasi: 1. Analisi dello stato dell’arte dei fattori che hanno influenzato l’implementazione della TPM nei sistemi automatizzati e delle peculiarità dell’industria alimentare al fine di identificare un modello di implementazione strutturato ed innovativo; la differenza dallo stato attuale è il focus su risultati accelerati e visibili. 2. Applicazione del modello ad un impianto di imbottigliamento; individuazione delle micro fermate come causa impattante di inefficienza produttiva. 3. Analisi dello stato dell’arte sui Downtime negli impianti automatizzati, focalizzandosi sull’impatto delle micro fermate sull’efficienza produttiva ed affidabilità del sistema. Proposte di miglioramento di tali inefficienze: Soluzione tecniche mirate con modello di recupero di efficienza produttiva (CPI – Cost Performance Indicator) o rivalutazione del dimensionamento dei buffer (BAP – Buffer Allocation Problem). 4. Analisi mirata delle micro fermate di una stazione di lavoro critica e relativa costruzione del modello simulativo per valutare il dimensionamento di un buffer. Tale modello risulta innovativo in quanto è basato su distribuzioni di Weibull personalizzate per ogni tipologia di micro fermata. Tale progetto di ricerca è stato svolto grazie alla collaborazione con Acqua Minerale San Benedetto S.p.A., che ha reso possibile l’implementazione del modello e la raccolta dei dati.

Scope of this thesis is the design and evaluation of a laundry processing facility. Main goal was to prepare, design and evaluate part of the technological layout for a modern, high-volume laundry processing facility. The focus was on the main apparatuses, main process flow, as well as the supporting process flow, related equipment and key components of field instrumentation with standard description. 3D facility model was prepared on the basis of proposed technological layout, using the SolidWorks software package. This model shows placement of all key equipment and components as well as physical disposition of connection tubing within the building. Final part of work reviews proposed options of process parameters measurement. Such measurements which are important for the evaluation of energy consumption of considered laundry processing. We discuss both pros and cons of evaluated and selected suitable measurement devices, tools and procedures. Constructed 3D model of piping lines shows placing and dimensions of selected measurement devices.

Mestrado em Ensino de Educação Visual e Tecnológica no Ensino Básico
O presente trabalho de investigação baseia-se no desenvolvimento de uma unidade de trabalho de Educação Tecnológica, com uma turma de quinto ano de escolaridade cuja temática se insere na Educação Patrimonial, tendo como pergunta de partida: Como é que a Educação Tecnológica poderá contribuir para a Educação Patrimonial? No desenvolvimento da intervenção com os alunos, foram desenvolvidas várias atividades na tecnologia do linho. A metodologia de investigação utilizada foi a Investigação-Ação, inserindo-se no método qualitativo. As informações foram recolhidas através da observação participante direta e indireta e de entrevistas feitas pelos alunos durante as visitas de estudo. Foram também utilizados registos fotográficos e notas de campo. As conclusões do presente estudo apontam para o potencial da Educação Tecnológica como veículo promotor da promoção/preservação da tecnologia artesanal do linho na região.
The presente research work is based upon the development of a unit of work of Technological Education, whose topic is in Patrimony education, involving a class of fifth year. The question at the outset of the research is: In what way can Technological Education contribute to Patrimonial education? During the course of the work with the pupils, a plethora of activities were developed with the technology of linen. The methodology used was Action Research, within the qualitative method. The data were collected by means of direct and indirect participating observation and interviews made by the pupils during field trips. Photographic registers and notes were also used. The conclusions of the present study suggest the potential underlying Technological Education as a promoter of the promotion / preservation of artisdanal linen technology on the island.

O enxoval é conhecido desde a antiguidade e tem passado por uma série de modificações, refletidas no tipo de tecido, confecção, design, moda e na participação do mercado. Estas mudanças também foram influenciadas pela mudança da posição da mulher na sociedade. A presente pesquisa objetivou em estudar o desenvolvimento do setor de cama, mesa e banho no Brasil, ocorrido de 1976 a 2017, em termos de aspectos de mercado, materiais e processos têxteis, design e moda. A metodologia consistiu em pesquisa das revistas Casa Vogue Brasil e Casa Cláudia de 1977 a 2017 para estudo e análise de materiais têxteis, designs e marcas do setor de cama, mesa e banho a partir das imagens e textos. Em adição, foi efetuada, em base dos principais relatórios relacionados à indústria têxtil e de confecção e demais literatura, pesquisa dos processos e maquinários para a produção de cama, mesa e banho e aspectos de mercado desse setor. Por fim, foram realizadas entrevistas com empresas do setor de cama, mesa e banho. Os materiais e designs têxteis clássicos são nítidos na preferência da apresentação de estilo. Em relação ao comércio, ocorreram grandes mudanças no mercado brasileiro dos anos 1976 aos 2017. No início desse período o destaque eram lojas de departamento e, com o passar dos anos, as empresas foram criando seu espaço com destaques nas marcas. As marcas com maior apresentação nas últimas duas décadas (anos 2000 e 2010) da revista Casa Vogue Brasil foram Trousseau, Trussardi e a loja de departamento de multimarcas Mundo do Enxoval (essas marcas tem o destaque para o público de maior poder aquisitivo no Brasil). Na revista Casa Cláudia, foram Buddemeyer, Trousseau e MMartan. Com o avanço tecnológico, tornou-se mais acessível a compra dos produtos de cama, mesa e banho industrializados e aumentou assim a exportação brasileira. As evoluções dos maquinários e todo o processo envolvido, auxiliaram à obtenção de produtos com valores mais acessíveis, melhor qualidade e padronagem dos produtos acabados. Constata-se que, o setor avança e se desenvolve constituindo um importante papel na produção têxtil. No entanto, os padrões clássicos predominam com destaque para a cor branca e o tecido de algodão nos produtos de cama, mesa e banho, sendo o bordado o ornamento de destaque do estilo desses produtos. A manutenção desses padrões por parte dos fabricantes brasileiros é interessante para manter vendas no mercado interno, mas um limitante para produtos de exportação destinados a públicos com valores e gostos estéticos distintos e com maior oferta de itens com variedade de designs de superfície
The trousseau has been known since antiquity and has undergone a series of modifications, reflected in the type of fabric, confection, design, fashion and market share. These changes were also influenced by the changing position of women in society. The present study aimed to study the development of the bed, table and bathroom sector in Brazil, from 1976 to 2017, in terms of market, materials and textile processes, design and fashion. The methodology consisted of a survey of Casa Vogue Brasil and Casa Claudia magazines from 1977 to 2017 for the study and analysis of textile materials, designs and brands in the bed, table and bathroom sector based on images and texts. In addition, on the basis of the main reports related to the textile and clothing industry and other literature, research was carried out on the processes and machinery for the production of bed, table and bath and market aspects of this sector. Finally, interviews were conducted with companies in the bed, table and bathroom sector. The classic textile materials and designs are crisp in style presentation preference. In terms of trade, there were major changes in the Brazilian market from 1976 to 2017. At the beginning of this period the highlights were department stores and, over the years, companies were creating their space with highlights in the brands. The most prominent brands in the last two decades (2000 and 2010) of Casa Vogue Brasil magazine were Trousseau, Trussardi and the multi-brand department store Mundo do Enxoval (these brands have the highlight for the most affluent public in Brazil). In the magazine House Claudia, were Buddemeyer, Trousseau and MMartan. With the technological advance, it became more accessible the purchase of products of bed, table and bath industrialized and thus increased the Brazilian export. The evolutions of the machinery and the whole process involved, helped to obtain products with more accessible values, better quality and standardization of the finished products. It is observed that, the sector advances and develops playing an important role in the textile production. However, classic patterns predominate with white and cotton in bed, table and bath products, with embroidery being the most outstanding ornament of the style of these products. The maintenance of these standards by the Brazilian manufacturers is interesting to maintain sales in the domestic market, but a limitation for export products destined to audiences with different values and aesthetic tastes and with a greater supply of items with a variety of surface designs

This research developed new creative opportunities for textile design by investigating CO2 laser processing technology to achieve surface design and three-dimensional effects. A practice based and interdisciplinary textile design methodology was employed, integrating scientific and technical approaches with a reflective craft practice. It was found that the synthesis of design and science was imperative to achieving the research goal of evolving techniques that have opened new design opportunities for textile design whilst being viable and communicable for industrial and commercial application. Four distinct Laser Textile Design techniques were developed in this research including: a laser enhanced dyeing technique for wool and wool blends; Peri-Dyeing, a laser dye fixation technique; a laser moulding technique; and a laser fading linen technique.

L’objectif de cette thèse a été d’étudier un traitement de surface innovant basé sur un contact avec un mélange réactionnel gazeux F2/O2. (oxyfluoration) déjà utilisé industriellement sur polymères mais sans application jusqu’à présent au niveau des fibres naturelles. Ces travaux se sont inscrits dans le cadre d’un projet collaboratif ayant pour objectif d’étudier et de développer les applications industrielles de ce traitement sur des fibres naturelles d’origines végétales (coton, lin) et animales (laine et soie). Le but a été d’intégrer principalement des fonctions oxygénées. La compréhension des mécanismes en jeu a été réalisé via la combinaison de plusieurs techniques d’analyse de surface, parmi lesquelles les techniques de microscopie (MEB, AFM) et les techniques spectroscopiques (XPS, ToF-SIMS). Grâce à la complémentarité de ces différentes techniques d’analyses il est apparu que le traitement d’oxyfluoration ne dégrade pas la surface et introduit en surface une quantité significative d’oxygène peu dépendante de la composition initiale du support mais avec des fonctions chimiques par contre variables selon la structure chimique initiale. Les résultats obtenus, notamment lors de tests de stabilité, ont montré que le fluor, également détecté en surface après le traitement, n’est pas réellement intégré dans la structure chimique des supports. La comparaison à des traitements plasmas a montré que le traitement présente moins de variabilité, ce qui a été confirmé en envisageant, via un plan d’expériences, l’ensemble des modifications possibles dans un contexte d’application industrielle. L’étude d’un transfert industriel a ensuite été mise en œuvre dans le cas du remplacement des traitements de préparation avant teinture du coton et l’efficacité a été testée en fonction des résultats des tests métiers. Le manque de variabilité du traitement n’a pas permis d’identifier de conditions suffisamment optimales pour proposer le remplacement des traitements actuels malgré les avantages d’un traitement en phase gazeuse et à pression atmosphérique
The objective of this thesis was to study a new surface treatment based on contact with a gaseous reaction mixture F2/O2. (oxyfluorination) already used industrially on polymers but not yet applied to natural fibres. This work was part of a collaborative project aimed at studying and developing the industrial applications of this treatment on natural fibres of vegetable (cotton, linen) and animal (wool and silk) origin. The aim was to integrate mainly oxygenated functions. The understanding of the mechanisms involved was achieved by combining several surface analysis techniques, including microscopy techniques (SEM, AFM) and spectroscopic techniques (XPS, ToF-SIMS). Thanks to the complementarity of these different analysis techniques, it appeared that the oxyfluorination treatment does not degrade the surface and introduces a significant quantity of oxygen on the surface, which is not very dependent on the initial composition of the support but with chemical functions that vary according to the initial chemical structure. The results obtained, particularly in stability tests, have shown that fluorine, also detected on the surface after treatment, is not really integrated into the chemical structure of the supports. The comparison with plasma treatments showed that the treatment has less variability, which was confirmed by considering, via a design of experiments, all the possible modifications in an industrial application context. The study of an industrial transfer was then implemented in the case of the replacement of preparation treatments before dyeing cotton and the effectiveness was tested according to the results of the business tests. The lack of treatment variability did not allow to identify sufficiently optimal conditions to propose the replacement of current treatments despite the advantages of gas phase and atmospheric pressure treatment

Multi band technology helps in getting multiple operating frequencies using a single microwave device. This thesis presents the design of dual and tri band microwave devices using coupled transmission line structures. Chapter 2 presents the design of a novel dual band transmission line structure using coupled lines. In chapter 3, Design of a dual band branch line coupler and a dual band Wilkinson power divider are proposed using the novel dual band transmission line structure presented in the previous chapter. In chapter 4, Design of a tri band transmission line structure by extending the dual band structure is presented. The Conclusion and future work are presented in chapter 5.

Dissertação apresentada na Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia da Universidade Nova de Lisboa para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Energias Renováveis – Conversão Eléctrica e Utilização Sustentáveis
One of the current challenges the electricity grid has is to actively connect future generation to its network without the need to fully reinforce it. This dissertation will study the use of dynamic ratings on overhead lines to increase its capacity and thus defer major investment on infrastructure reinforcement. The amount of current an overhead line can withstand in a given time is defined by the distance towards the ground, which is proportional to the conductor´s temperature, which is given by a static rating stated in the P27 standard – “Current Rating Guide for High Voltage Overhead Lines Operating in the UK Distribution System”. This rating changes from season to season and depends on specific values for ambient temperature, wind speed, wind direction and the probability that in a year the conductor exceeds its design temperature. This standard is seen as being very restrictive and a limiting factor on overhead line capacity for both future generation connections and demand. Wind speed and direction are extremely important on the cooling of overhead lines and in times of strong winds the conductor cools down, allowing extra amount of current to flow through it. By using real time weather data, it´s possible to obtain the maximum current that can flow in an overhead line for a specific operating temperature and assess the amount of headroom possible given by the difference between the static ratings and the new dynamic ratings is assessed. A view on the extra amount of energy produced, as well as CO2 emission savings and profit will also be presented, giving a practical result by applying dynamic ratings.

UHV transmission lines have several advantages when it comes to transferring of bulk amount ofpower in long distances. Although the technology is available from 1980’s, the number of UHVtransmission lines around the world has been increased in the beginning of this century in orderto supply the high demand of electricity. The number is going to increase even more in the nextfew years. Thus, it is important to study the UHV line characteristics and update the powersystem equipment as well as the operation procedure accordingly.UHV transmission lines exhibits some distinct phenomena which are not present in thetransmission lines with lower voltage levels e.g. high amount of charging current, non-linearincrease of apparent fault impedance with the increase in fault distance, longer time constant forthe DC component in fault current etc. Some of these are very important for different protectionschemes of the transmission line. The aim of this thesis work is to study the impact of UHV linecharacteristics on line differential protection and propose solutions to overcome them.Line differential protection is popular for its good selectivity and simplicity as long as there is adependable reliable communication system between the two ends of the line. High amount ofcapacitive charging current and large phase shift between sending and receiving end currents aretwo important characteristics of UHV lines which have severe impact on the line differentialprotection. It becomes very critical for the protection scheme to maintain good sensitivity andsecurity at the same time. As a result, compensation of the charging current becomes essential.The fixed compensation method is used to compensate the charging current of long lines withlower voltage levels. However, it cannot satisfy the sensitivity requirements for line differentialprotection scheme on UHV lines. Hence, it is necessary to search for other compensationmethods.In this thesis, a solution related with charging current compensation method is proposed with theuse of adaptive phase shift compensation. Several simulations have been done to examine thecharacteristics of the developed method in the worst case scenarios. It is found that the methodexhibits very good sensitivity as well as security for line differential protection on UHV lines.
UHV-transmissionsledningar har ett antal fördelar när det gäller överföringskapacitet av effektöver långa avstånd. Även om tekniken har varit tillgänglig sedan 1980-talet är det inte förränunder det senaste årtiondet som utbyggnaden har tagit fart ordentligt. Detta har skett för att mötaden höga efterfrågan på elektricitet. De närmaste åren väntas utbyggnaden öka ytterligare. Motdenna bakgrund är det relevant att studera karaktäristiken av UHV samt att uppdaterakraftsystemutrustning såväl som driften.UHV-tramsmissionslinor är förenade med vissa fenomen som inte förekommer förtransmissionsledningar med lägre spänning. Vissa av dessa fenomen är har stor inverkan påskyddsutrustning för transmissionslinorna. Syftet med denna uppsats är att studera inverkan frånUHV-transmissionsledningar på differentialskydd samt att föreslå lösningar för att överkommainverkan.Differentialskydd är populärt tack vare goda selektiva egenskaper och enkelhet så länge det finnsett pålitligt kommunikationssystem. Hög kapacitans och stor fasskiftning mellan strömmen påavsändar- och mottagarsidan är två viktiga egenskaper hos UHV-transmissionsledningar vilkahar stor inverkan på differentialskyddet. Det är väldigt viktigt att skyddsutrustningen kanupprätthålla god sensitivitet samt säkerhet. Av denna anledning är kompensation för den högakapacitansen viktig. Konstant kompensation används för att kompensera för hör kapacitans hoslånga transmissionslinor med lägre spänning. Denna metod är däremot inte fungerande för UHV.Det är därför nödvändigt att söka efter en annan lösning.I denna uppsats föreslås en lösning på behovet att kompensera för hög kapacitans genom attanvända adaptiv fasskiftkompensation. Flertalet simuleringar har genomförts för att utvärderakaraktäristiken av den utvecklade metoden. Det konstateras att metoden väldigt god känslighetoch säkerhet för differentialskydd av UHV-transmissionsledningar.

A method for computing the per-unit-length capacitance matrix and the inductance matrix for multiconductor transmission lines in a multi-dielectric medium is presented. The multi-dielectric medium consists of both planar and non-planar dielectric regions. The formulation is based on an integral equation method for the free charge distribution on conductor surfaces and the polarization charge distribution on the non-planar dielectric interfaces. The kernel of the integral equation is a space domain Green's function for a layered medium. The numerical solution is obtained by the method of moments.

Culverts throughout the country are approaching or are past their original design lives. These ‘baby boomer’ culverts will need to be repaired, rehabilitated, or replaced. Because entire culvert replacement is so expensive and intrusive, alternate measures to extend the culvert project life are growing increasingly popular. One such method is slip lining, where a ‘sleeve’ is installed within an existing culvert barrel and stabilized. Plastic pipe sleeves are very popular for slip lining primarily because the plastic material's lower Manning's roughness values allow for the culvert capacity to be maintained despite a reduction in culvert size. Unfortunately, the reduced friction within the barrel can create a barrier to fish passage due to increased water velocities. The increased velocities also cause greater outlet scour which can result in further obstacles to fish passage. These new fish barriers can greatly affect aquatic ecosystems by limiting the access that fish have to smaller tributaries used for spawning and rearing—access that is critical to the life cycles of many fish. It is suggested that mitigation of the increased velocities should go hand-in-hand with slip lined culvert design projects where fish passage (present or future) is to be considered. Can the demand for hydraulic capacity as well as the demand for fish passage be satisfied? Careful design and installation, coupled with post-project monitoring can result in slip lined culvert retrofits which successfully pass fish. Investigation of federal and state laws and various agency guidelines has informed the creation of a list of culvert conditions which should prompt consideration of slip lined culvert retrofit among other design alternatives. Additionally, a literature review and survey of all U.S. state Departments of Transportation as well as state Fish and Wildlife Departments has shown that there has been very limited experience in providing for fish passage through slip lined culverts. Literature and practice has pointed to the use of baffles and tailwater control weirs for velocity mitigation. Site visits have been made to the few states with this experience to assess developing technologies and record successful and unsuccessful installations. Additional hydraulic analysis using current software suggests general trends in the effects slip lined culvert retrofits on flow type, headwater, velocity as well as the effects of tailwater control weirs. Issues of sustainability, constructability and maintenance, as well as monitoring are addressed.

Current flow in the electrical grid is changing due to the introduction of new generators and loads.Specifically, weak Overhead lines, are a constraint for the introduction of wind farms located farfrom the central network. The current situation requires smart solutions to improve the transportationcapabilities of these grid’s components. Among the different possibilities, Dynamic Line Rating(DLR), is emerging as the most interesting solution from both the economic and technical points ofview. The presented Thesis work investigates the performance of DLR from both the theoretical andpractical perspectives.The theory behind DLR is based on the development of a thermal model able to estimate the precisetemperature experienced by OHLs conductor under different climate conditions. Since 1972, whenthe first investigation on DLR have been published, different thermal models have been developed,each with a different precision level. The first part of the thesis concerns the investigation of IEEE738 standard accuracy.The standard analysis highlighted weaknesses on the theoretical approach employed on the forcedconvective cooling calculation. Specifically the wind direction effect is estimated as the conductorwas a perfect cylinder. A wind tunnel test has been performed in order to verify the effect of theconductor’s strands on the total thermal equilibrium. The results show that an inclined wind-conductor relative direction can have a more important impacton the line rating than foreseen with the IEEE thermal model. Since the wind tunnel test has been thefirst experience of this kind pursued at KTH, the presence of few different laboratory set-updeficiencies did not allow to draw a definitive and precise conclusion on the necessary IEEE formulacorrection.The practical side of the Thesis project includes an extensive literature research on the differentdevices that can be employed for dynamic line rating and a real-case study analysis. The analysis isperformed in order to evaluate which can be the best solution when the introduction of new windenergy supply increase the load on a pre-existent OHL. Results show that, in the selected region,Värmland, in the southwestern Sweden, DLR has the prerequisites to allow the exploitation of thehigh wind energy resource at the lower expenses. Wind energy production is often associated with anincreased cooling on the line’s conductors. This means that higher current levels can be withstoodavoiding the need for expensive lines’ upgrading. For the selected hot-spot, in 2015, DLR wouldhave allowed a transport capability improvement of 69.6% during the summer and of 26.7% duringthe winter. It is also reported that a load equal to the SLR during the winter period would have causedserious overheating transients of the conductor. Overall DLR proved to allow technical and economicbenefit for the system operator.
Flödet genom elnätet förändras på grund av införandet av ny generering och nya typer av laster.Specifikt är svaga luftledningar en begränsning för installation av vindkraft som ligger långt fråndet centrala nätet. Den nuvarande situationen kräver smarta lösningar för att förbättratransportkapaciteten i elnätet. Bland de olika möjligheterna finns Dynamic Line Rating (DLR) somframstår som den mest intressanta lösningen från både ekonomiska och tekniska synvinklar. Det härexamensarbetet behandlar resultatet av DLR från både teoretiska och praktiska perspektiv.Den teoretiska grunden för DLR är baserad på utvecklingen av en termisk modell som kan skattatemperaturen i luftledningar under olika klimatförhållanden. Examensarbetets första del behandlaren undersökning av IEEE 738 standarden (DLR standard). IEEE 738 standarden utgår från ledarensom en perfekt cylinder. Något som har en effekt bland annat i effekten av vindriktning. Ettvindtunnel test har utförts för att verifiera effekten av fler kardelers effekt på den totala termiskajämvikten. Resultaten visar att antalet kardeler har en betydande effekt på den termiska jämviktenoch då alltså även på DLR.Den andra delen av examensarbetet innehåller en omfattande litteratursökning på de olikaapparaterna som kan användas till DLR samt en praktik undersökning/analys. Analysen utförs föratt utvärdera vilken lösning som kan vara den bästa vid införandet av mer vindkraft, som ökarbelastningen på en redan existerande luftledning. Resultaten visar att, i det valda området,Värmland, i sydvästra Sverige, har DLR förutsättningar för att medge ökat utnyttjandet av den storavindkraft resurs som finns där till relativt låga kostnader. Slutsatsen av examensarbetet är att DLR ger tekniska och ekonomiska fördelar tillsystemoperatören.

Chránění paralelních a souběžných vedení je skutečně problematické z důvodů účinku vzájemné indukčnosti vedení v souběhu, odporu poruchy nebo rozložení zpětného proudu poruchy, které zkreslují impedanci jednofázové poruchy „viděné“ distanční ochranou. Proto současné numerické distanční ochrany nabízí kompenzační funkce, které je možno použít pro korekci charakteristik a výpočtu vzdálenosti poruchy pomocí lokátorů její charakteristice s dostatečnou odporovou rezervou a možnosti nastavení odpovídajícího režimu vypnutí. Tato práce se zabývá problémy, kterým čelí lokátor distanční ochrany při měření a výpočtu vzdálenosti místa jednofázové poruchy, a také mapuje současný stav řešení těchto problémů. Na základě výpočtu parametrů zadaného vedení bylo provedeno zhodnocení možných chyb při lokalizaci jednofázové poruchy a navrženo nastavení distanční ochrany určené k jeho chránění včetně nastavení parametrů určených pro kompenzaci výše uvedených negativních jevů. Bylo zjištěno, že zemnící lana a transpozice vedení přispívají k přesnosti lokátorů, protože nejmenší chyba byla zjištěna v transponovaném vedení se zemním lanem.

It has been almost 50 years since York published an exact and general solution for the best-fit straight line to independent points with normally distributed errors in both x and y. York's solution is highly cited in the geophysical literature but almost unknown outside of it, so that there has been no ebb in the tide of books and papers wrestling with the problem. Much of the post-1969 literature on straight-line fitting has sown confusion not merely by its content but by its very existence. The optimal least-squares fit is already known; the problem is already solved. Here we introduce the non-specialist reader to York's solution and demonstrate its application in the interesting case of the isotopic mixing line, an analytical tool widely used to determine the isotopic signature of trace gas sources for the study of biogeochemical cycles. The most commonly known linear regression methods – ordinary least-squares regression (OLS), geometric mean regression (GMR), and orthogonal distance regression (ODR) – have each been recommended as the best method for fitting isotopic mixing lines. In fact, OLS, GMR, and ODR are all special cases of York's solution that are valid only under particular measurement conditions, and those conditions do not hold in general for isotopic mixing lines. Using Monte Carlo simulations, we quantify the biases in OLS, GMR, and ODR under various conditions and show that York's general – and convenient – solution is always the least biased.

Les images textiles parsèment l’œuvre de Paul Muldoon (né en 1951), où les tissus recherchés comme le « dimity », le « buckram » et le « barège » côtoient des articles de linge tel que les nappes brodées à la main, les couvertures souillées, et les tuniques en lin. L’ampleur et la fréquence des images textiles au fil de l’oeuvre constituent un trope qui occupe une place privilégiée dans l’univers de Muldoon. Procédant d’une lecture « textile » de sa poésie, l’hypothèse est posée que l’œuvre de Muldoon s’inscrit dans une tradition où texte et textile sont étroitement liés. Elle remonte à l’Antiquité grecque en passant par Jonathan Swift, W. B. Yeats et les poètes irlandais de l’après-guerre. En outre, cette thèse démontre comment Muldoon intègre l’héritage économique, politique et culturel de l’industrie textile en Irlande du Nord dans la trame même de ses textes
The Textile Poetics of Paul Muldoon (1951-) Paul Muldoon’s poetry has consistently made reference to textiles. Alongside descriptions of highly specialised fabrics such as dimity, buckram and barège, his work also features numerous textile images including hand-embroidered tablecloths, soiled blankets and linen shifts. Indeed, the detail and scope of Muldoon’s textile imagery suggests that the trope is central to his poetic. By examining the various ways he incorporates textiles into his poetry, this thesis posits the argument that Muldoon’s poetic is essentially a textile one. Moreover, by considering the relationship between texts and textiles, this thesis also aims to show how Muldoon’s textile poetic draws on a tradition extending from classical Greek poetry through to Jonathan Swift, W. B. Yeats and post-War Irish poetry. In addition it will also study how the economic, political and cultural legacy of Ireland’s textile industry is threaded through Muldoon’s work

This paper describes my work with a historical craft and my attempt to find new ways to look at it, work with it and present it. I use the embroidery technique Hardangersaum which is all white, and where selected threads of the woven fabric grid are removed while others are wrapped and embellished. The artistic research leans heavily on the traditional craft but tries to isolate it from its historical baggage. I turn my focus to the grid of the fabric and I present some viewpoints from Rosalind Krauss and Hannah B. Higgins. I describe questions of scale and presentation that have emerged and show how digital animation has played a major role in the development and the communication of the embroidery work.

Garants de la propreté en contact permanent avec la saleté, les blanchisseurs occupaient une position équivoque dans l'imaginaire des anciens Égyptiens : peu enviable d'après la Satire des métiers, elle pouvait être source de joie et d'allégresse d'après la poésie amoureuse. L'étude vise la définition la plus précise possible de ces professionnels à travers différentes approches. D'abord, l'examen du vocabulaire égyptien depuis les plus anciennes attestations à l'Ancien Empire jusqu'aux exemples plus récents de la fin de la Période ptolémaïque, tant en hiéroglyphe qu'en hiératique et en démotique, permet de mettre en valeur l'évolution du terme principal qui permettait de désigner ces travailleurs, le titre de rekhty (rḫty). D'un idéogramme complexe figurant un homme lavant un tissu, en passant par deux oiseaux, résumés progressivement à leur tête jusqu'à ne plus ressembler qu'à deux cornes, l'écriture de ce substantif permet de suivre la simplification progressive et la rapidité du geste des scribes. Une fois établi l'ensemble du vocabulaire étudié et présenté la répartition spatio-temporelle des occurrences conservées, la recherche vise ensuite à déterminer le plus concrètement possible les différentes tâches dont ces professionnels étaient chargés à travers une présentation de la chaîne opératoire de l'entretien du linge. Examinant les sources iconographiques, la discussion analyse chacune des étapes depuis la livraison du linge jusqu'à son retour. Si lavage, essorage et séchage paraissent aisément compréhensibles, plusieurs actions complémentaires sont plus difficiles à appréhender et soulèvent des problèmes d'interprétation qui pourraient être liés à une activité tinctoriale. Un chapitre vient compléter cette réflexion en revenant sur les moyens matériels dont disposaient les blanchisseurs pour réaliser leurs opérations : textiles, outils et produits. La réflexion s'élargit ensuite en quittant le domaine du lavage à proprement parler pour mettre en perspective ces travailleurs dans le cadre général de l'Égypte ancienne. Différentes thématiques sont alors abordées parmi lesquelles celles des cadres administratifs pour lesquels ces hommes exerçaient leur métier, des considérations hiérarchiques, de l'organisation en équipe, du genre, de la temporalité de l'entretien du linge ou encore de la rétribution et des coûts de la profession. L'ensemble se conclut sur une ouverture autour des notions de saleté et de propreté des textiles. Les blanchisseurs s'arrêtent ainsi aux portes du temenos, avant que l'étoffe ne soit transmise aux mains des prêtres et n'intègre un univers dans lequel elle dépasse sa propre matérialité pour devenir l'un des instruments de l'établissement de la pureté rituelle
Protectors of cleanliness in permanent contact with dirt, the washermen were in a somewhat ambiguous position in the Ancient Egyptians' minds: undesirable, according to the Satire of the Trades, but delightful according to love songs. This study aims at defining these professionals as precisely as possible through various approaches. Firstly, an investigation of Egyptian vocabulary, from the earliest attestations of the Old Kingdom to the more recent examples of the Ptolemaic Period, in hieroglyphic, hieratic and demotic, highlights the evolution of the main term used to designate these workers, the title of rekhty (rḫty). From a complex ideogram depicting a man washing a cloth, to two birds, gradually reduced to their head until they resemble no more than two horns, the writing of this noun allows us to follow the gradual simplification and rapidity of the scribes' gestures. Following the study of the vocabulary and a presentation of the spatial and temporal distribution of the occurrences preserved, the research continues with a second chapter aiming at determining as concretely as possible the various tasks these professionals were responsible for, through a presentation of the “chaîne opératoire” of laundry care. Using iconographic sources, each of the stages, from the delivery of the linen to its return, is discussed. While washing, wringing out and drying are easy to understand, several complementary actions are more difficult to grasp and subject to different interpretations maybe linked with dyeing practice. Another chapter completes this overview by looking at the material resources available to the launderers to carry out their operations: textiles, tools and products. The discussion then expands, leaving the field of washing to put these workers into more perspective by considering them in the broader frame of ancient Egypt. Various topics are then addressed, including the administrative frameworks in which these workers were employed, hierarchical considerations, team organization, gender issue, difficulties related to the temporality of linen care, and question of the remuneration and costs of this profession. The work ends with a discussion about dirtiness and cleanliness of textiles. The launderers thus stop at the gates of the temenos, before the linen is handed over to the priests and enters a world in which it transcends its own materiality to become one of the instruments used to establish ritual purity

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O presente trabalho introduz um novo método para confecção de acopladores híbridos do tipo branch-line que sejam de banda dupla, ou seja, que são projetados para operar em duas frequências desejadas quaisquer com a mesma resposta. Este método faz uso de uma nova estrutura de linha de transmissão artificial (LTA) implementada em microfita, a qual é composta por três linhas de transmissões conectadas em cascata, com estubes em aberto inseridos em paralelo entre as linhas de transmissão. Foram obtidas expressões algébricas que determinam, em função das frequências das bandas desejadas, os valores de impedância característica e comprimento elétrico de cada um dos segmentos e estubes para que, em ambas as frequências, a LTA tenha os mesmos parâmetros de espalhamento que, e portanto seja equivalente a, um único segmento de linha de transmissão convencional com impedância característica e comprimento elétrico quaisquer especificados. Para obter o acoplador híbrido do tipo branch-line com banda dupla, portanto, substituímos cada linha de transmissão do acoplador por uma ATL com os parâmetros calculados de acordo com as expressões encontradas. Essa técnica foi usada para projetar, simular, fabricar e medir um acoplador híbrido branch-line que funcionasse nas frequências GSM de 925MHz e ISM 5.8GHz. Essa técnica tem como principal vantagem a capacidade e a flexibilidade de obter acopladores branch-line com bom desempenho em duas bandas quaisquer.
This work deals with a new method for the design of dual band branch-line hybrid couplers with arbitrary central frequencies, in other words, branch-line couplers which operate in two desired frequencies. This method makes use of a new artificial transmission line (ATL) structure, which is composed of the cascade connection of three transmission lines segments with parallel open stubs between them. Algebraic expressions were obtained that specify, in function of the central frequencies, the values for the characteristic impedance and electric length of the segments, so that the ATL has, for both frequencies, the same scattering parameters, hence the same behavior, as an ordinary transmission line with any chosen characteristic impedance and electric length. To obtain a dual band branch line coupler, the desired frequencies are chosen and the expressions are evaluated to find out the characteristic impedances and electric lengths of the ATL’s to replace all transmission lines that make up the coupler. This technique was used to design, simulate, fabricate and measure a branch-line hybrid coupler that works on the 925MHz GSM and 5.8GHz ISM frequencies. This technique has as it’s main advantage the ability and flexibility to yield couplers with good performance in two arbitrary bands.

Questa elaborato di tesi descrive i procedimenti (e successivamente i risultati) attuati dal reparto Lean & Strategic Operation della FAAC S.p.a. per la conversione di due linee monoprodotto gestite con logica push in un unica linea multiprodotto gestita con logica pull. Nel conseguimento di questo obbiettivo sono stati utilizzati utilizzati diversi strumenti visuali con diversi scopi: -Tecnica Yamazumi (per il bilanciamento delle diverse configurazioni della linea multiprodotto) -Work combination chart (tecnica che permette l'individuazione delle operazioni meno efficienti del processo produttivo) -Andon (strumento informatico che permette di registrare e catalogare i fermi e i ritardi) -Change/Weak point management (strumento che permette al Group leader di avere una visione immediata e completa delle linee di sua competenza, in termini di assenze, problemi, responsabili dei problemi, posizione dei problemi nelle linee, skill map ecc) -Studio sull'ergonomia (implementato nella work combination chart). L'elaborato di tesi presenta anche una sezione riguardante il disegno del nuovo layout di 5 linee produttive, al fine del loro spostamento in una diversa zona dell'azienda. Una parte dell'elaborato tratta anche della ri-progettazione dei carrelli atti allo spostamento dei diversi prodotti in fase di lavorazione, considerando i pro e i contro delle diverse soluzioni percorribili. Infine sono stati trattati anche altri temi, come l'agenda Standard work (agenda che mira a diventare lo standard per i futuri tirocinanti in FAAC).

Thesis (M.S.); Submitted to Iowa State Univ., Ames, IA (US); 12 Dec 2003.
Published through the Information Bridge: DOE Scientific and Technical Information. "IS-T 2547" Elizabeth M. Lenihan. 12/12/2003. Report is also available in paper and microfiche from NTIS.