Academic literature on the topic 'Longshore currents'

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Journal articles on the topic "Longshore currents"

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Inman, D. L., and W. H. Quinn. "CURRENTS IN THE SURF ZONE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 2 (January 1, 2000): 3. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v2.3.

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Surface and bottom currents in the surf zone were measured at 15 equally spaced points along two straight beaches with approximately parallel bottom contours. The measurements showed that offshore currents predominate over onshore currents at the bottom, while at the surface there is a slight predominance in the onshore direction. With regard to the longshore component, it was found that surface and bottom currents have a similar velocity distribution. The variability of the longshore component as measured by its standard deviation is equal to or larger than the mean longshore velocity. This wide variation in longshore currents indicates the impracticability of estimating the mean velocity from a single observation of longshore current. It was found that the momentum approach to the prediction of longshore currents by Putnam, Munk and Traylor (1949) leads to useful forecasts provided the beach friction coefficient k is permitted to vary with the longshore velocity, V. The indicated relation is k~v^(-3/2).
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Hsu, Hung-Chu. "Edge waves with longshore currents." Quarterly of Applied Mathematics 73, no. 3 (June 16, 2015): 593–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1090/qam/1399.

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Bruun, Per. "LONGSHORE CURRENTS IN ONE AND MULTI-BAR PROFILES RELATION TO LITTORAL DRIFT." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 8 (January 29, 2011): 15. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v8.15.

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This paper deals with longshore current theories. Introductorily it gives a brief review of wave theories for breaking waves including theoretical, laboratory as well as field results. Next the longshore current theory based on the momentum inflow over a uniformly sloping beach and bottom (Putnam, Munk and Traylor, 1949) is discussed with special reference to its friction factor. The following chapters deal with two new longshore current theories - both based on the continuity principle. One of them called the rip current approach assumes that all water thrown in by wave breaking runs out in rip currents and will probably be valid for profiles with well developed bars and waves approaching the shore almost perpendicularly. The other theory considers the fact that water from a wave breaking under an angle with the bar flows in with a certain phase difference in time longshore and this will create a longshore slope of the average water table, therefore also a longshore current. The water may return to sea uniformly as undertow or in rip currents or by a combination of both. This theory is particularly valid for waves breaking under a certain, not too small, angle with the bar. In both cases the momentum in the breaking waves is ignored because field observations show that in a well developed bar profile most of the momentum has disappeared inside the bar after wave breaking. Examples of computation of current velocities for one bar as well as multi-bar profiles are given. Next the possible relation between longshore currents and littoral drift is discussed.
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Visser, Paul J. "Laboratory measurements of uniform longshore currents." Coastal Engineering 15, no. 5-6 (October 1991): 563–93. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(91)90028-f.

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Sokolov, Andrei, and Boris Chubarenko. "Wind Influence on the Formation of Nearshore Currents in the Southern Baltic: Numerical Modelling Results." Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics 59, no. 1-2 (October 1, 2012): 37–48. http://dx.doi.org/10.2478/v10203-012-0003-3.

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Abstract A two-dimensional numerical model was used for a simulation of vertical average longshore currents generated by both wind friction and wind-wave action in the nearshore zone. The modelling domain includes the southern part of the Baltic Proper (all boundaries were closed). Wind, uniform in space and varying in time, was the only forcing in the model. The correlation coefficient higher than 0.8 was obtained by model calibration versus the field measurements of currents conducted at the Lubiatowo field station (southern Baltic) during about 1.5 months in 2006. Comparative simulations of total currents including both wind-induced drift and wave components, and of total currents including only a wind-induced drift component, showed that the input of the drift component into currents in the nearshore zone is greater than commonly believed.Wind-induced drift strongly dominates outside the zone of wave transformation, and its input into the total resulting currents remains noticeable even in a zone between the shoreline and the depth of the first wave breaking. Thus, wind-induced drift constitutes up to 50% of the resulting longshore currents for longshore winds and no less than 20% of the longshore component of currents for winds at 45 degrees to the longshore direction.
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Bryan, K. R., and A. J. Bowen. "Bar-trapped edge waves and longshore currents." Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 103, no. C12 (November 15, 1998): 27867–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/98jc02098.

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Falqués, A., V. Iranzo, and A. Montoto. "Resonance of longshore currents under topographic forcing." Physics of Fluids A: Fluid Dynamics 5, no. 12 (December 1993): 3071–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.858717.

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Yoo, Donghoon. "Wave‐Induced Longshore Currents in Surf Zone." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 120, no. 6 (November 1994): 557–75. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1994)120:6(557).

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Svendsen, Ib A., and Rene S. Lorenz. "Velocities in combined undertow and longshore currents." Coastal Engineering 13, no. 1 (May 1989): 55–79. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(89)90032-x.

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McDougal, William G., and Robert T. Hudspeth. "Influence of lateral mixing on longshore currents." Ocean Engineering 13, no. 5 (January 1986): 419–33. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(86)90031-4.

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Dissertations / Theses on the topic "Longshore currents"

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Church, John Casey. "Topics in longshore currents." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Naval Postgraduate School, 1993. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/api/volumes/oclc/29749880.html.

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Gutierrez, Enrique. "Effects of longshore currents on rip currents." [Gainesville, Fla.] : University of Florida, 2004. http://purl.fcla.edu/fcla/etd/UFE0004905.

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Soares, Costa Ventura Carlos Manuel da. "Vertical profiles of longshore currents." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 1995. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA305319.

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Smallegan, Stephanie M. "Longshore currents near Cape Hatteras, NC." Thesis, Georgia Institute of Technology, 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/43719.

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As part of a beach erosion field experiment conducted at Cape Hatteras, NC in February 2010, this study focuses on quantifying longshore currents, which are the basic mechanism that drives longshore sediment transport. Using video imagery, the longshore currents in view of a video camera are estimated with the Optical Current Meter technique and the nearshore morphology is estimated by analyzing breaking wave patterns in standard deviation images. During a Nor‟easter storm event on February 12 and 13, 2010, the video longshore currents are compared to in situ data and it is found that the currents are most affected by the angle of incidence of incoming waves, increasing in magnitude as the angle becomes more oblique due to a larger component of radiation stress forcing in the longshore direction. The magnitude of the radiation stress forcing, which is at least an order of magnitude larger than the surface wind stress, increases as wave height increases or tide level decreases, which causes more wave breaking to occur. The normalized standard deviation images show wave breaking occurring at an inshore and offshore location, corresponding closely to the locations of an inner and outer bar indicated in survey data. Using two profiles from the survey data, one profile that intersects a trough and one that intersects a terrace, the video currents are also compared to currents simulated in one-dimension using the circulation module, SHORECIRC, and the wave module, REF/DIF-S, as part of the NearCoM system. Although the simulated currents greatly underpredict the video currents when the flow is only driven by radiation stresses, a mean water level difference between the two profiles creates a longshore pressure gradient. Superimposing a pressure gradient forcing term into the longshore momentum balance that assumes an equilibrium state of the flow, the magnitude of the simulated currents are much larger than the magnitude of the video estimated currents. Using analytical solutions of simplified forms of the mass and momentum equations to determine the effects of accelerations on the flow, it is seen that the acceleration term greatly affects the flow due to the relatively large mean water level difference that acts over a relatively short distance. Therefore, the pressure gradient forcing term is modified to include the effects of accelerations. By including the two-dimensional effects of the acceleration in the one-dimensional model through the modified pressure gradient, the quasi two-dimensional model simulated currents are very similar to the video estimated currents, indicating that the currents observed in the video may be pressure gradient driven.
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Brown, Susan Jayne 1967. "Longshore currents on seawall-protected beaches." Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1996. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/39079.

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Restrepo, Juan M., and Shankar Venkataramani. "Stochastic longshore current dynamics." ELSEVIER SCI LTD, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/621938.

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We develop a stochastic parametrization, based on a 'simple' deterministic model for the dynamics of steady longshore currents, that produces ensembles that are statistically consistent with field observations of these currents. Unlike deterministic models, stochastic parameterization incorporates randomness and hence can only match the observations in a statistical sense. Unlike statistical emulators, in which the model is tuned to the statistical structure of the observation, stochastic parametrization are not directly tuned to match the statistics of the observations. Rather, stochastic parameterization combines deterministic, i.e physics based models with stochastic models for the "missing physics" to create hybrid models, that are stochastic, but yet can be used for making predictions, especially in the context of data assimilation. We introduce a novel measure of the utility of stochastic models of complex processes, that we call consistency of sensitivity. A model with poor consistency of sensitivity requires a great deal of tuning of parameters and has a very narrow range of realistic parameters leading to outcomes consistent with a reasonable spectrum of physical outcomes. We apply this metric to our stochastic parametrization and show that, the loss of certainty inherent in model due to its stochastic nature is offset by the model's resulting consistency of sensitivity. In particular, the stochastic model still retains the forward sensitivity of the deterministic model and hence respects important structural/physical constraints, yet has a broader range of parameters capable of producing outcomes consistent with the field data used in evaluating the model. This leads to an expanded range of model applicability. We show, in the context of data assimilation, the stochastic parametrization of longshore currents achieves good results in capturing the statistics of observation that were not used in tuning the model.
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Whitford, Dennis James. "Wind and wave forcing of longshore currents across a barred beach." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Naval Postgraduate School, 1988. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/api/volumes/oclc/52803820.html.

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Faria, Antonio Fernando Garcez. "A simple quasi-three dimensional model of longshore currents over arbitrary profile." Thesis, [Monterey, Calif. : Naval Postgraduate School], 1995. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/api/volumes/oclc/35646712.html.

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Check, Lindsay A. (Lindsay Anne). "Analysis of Longshore Sediment Transport on Beaches." Thesis, Georgia Institute of Technology, 2004. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/4886.

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The present study investigates longshore sediment transport for a variety of bathymetric and wave conditions using the National Oceanic Partnership Program (NOPP) NearCoM Model. The model is used to determine the effects of wave shape and bathymetry changes on the resulting longshore sediment transport. The wave drivers, REF/DIF 1 and REF/DIF S, are used to assess the effects of monochromatic and spectral waves on longshore sediment transport, respectively. SHORECIRC is used as the circulation module and four different sediment transport models are used. Longshore transport comparisons are made with and without skewed orbital velocities in the shear stress and current velocities. It is found that the addition of skewed orbital velocities in shear stress and transport formulations increases longshore sediment transport by increasing time-varying effective shear stress. The addition of skewed orbital velocities greatly increases the transport due to advection by waves. The localized longshore sediment transport is calculated using a generic physics based method and formulas by Bagnold, Bailard, and Bowen, Watanabe, and Ribberink. The transport results for each scenario are compared to the total transport CERC, Kamphuis, and GENESIS formulas. The bathymetries tested include an equilibrium beach profile, cusped beach profiles, and barred beach profiles with different bar locations. The longshore transport on an equilibrium beach profile is modeled for a 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm grain size and transport is compared to the CERC formula. The longshore sediment transport for d=0.2 mm is larger than d=0.4 mm when wave power is small, but as wave power increases the transport for the larger grain size dominates. The transport is also affected by the addition of cusps and bars on an equilibrium beach profile. The barred beach is modified to compare transport between waves breaking at the bar, before the bar, and after the bar. The features affect the transport when the wave powers are small, but as wave heights increase the cusp and bar features induce little change on the longshore sediment transport.
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Agarwal, Arpit. "Time-averaged model for longshore current and sediment transport in the surf and swash zones." Access to citation, abstract and download form provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company; downloadable PDF file 4.62 Mb , 106 p, 2005. http://wwwlib.umi.com/dissertations/fullcit/1428092.

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Books on the topic "Longshore currents"

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Whitford, Dennis James. Wind and wave forcing of longshore currents across a barred beach. Monterey, Calif: Naval Postgraduate School, 1988.

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Garrod, Tina. Are longshore currents alone responsible for the movement of material along Amroth beach? Northampton: Nene College, 1994.

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Larson, Magnus. NMLONG: Numerical model for simulating longshore current. Vicksburg, MS: US Army Corps of Engineers, Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, 2002.

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Kraus, Nicholas C. NMLONG: Numerical model for simulating the longshore current. Washington: US Army Corps of Engineers, 1991.

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Howd, Peter A. Edge waves in the presence of strong longshore currents. 1991.

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Book chapters on the topic "Longshore currents"

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Goudas, C. L., G. A. Katsiaris, N. Kafoussias, C. Massalas, G. Pnevmatikos, M. Xenos, and E. Tzirtzilakis. "Longshore Current Modification near the Boundary by Seabed Groin Arrangements: A Numerical Approach." In Coastal Systems and Continental Margins, 311–36. Dordrecht: Springer Netherlands, 2003. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-94-010-0135-9_23.

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Hanes, Daniel M. "Longshore Currents." In Reference Module in Earth Systems and Environmental Sciences. Elsevier, 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-818234-5.00051-1.

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"longshore current." In Dictionary Geotechnical Engineering/Wörterbuch GeoTechnik, 818. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-41714-6_122239.

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"(a)longshore current." In Dictionary Geotechnical Engineering/Wörterbuch GeoTechnik, 39. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-41714-6_11492.

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Gray, John S., and Michael Elliott. "The sediment and related environmental factors." In Ecology of Marine Sediments. Oxford University Press, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198569015.003.0006.

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Our next major question is, how can we characterize the sediment as a habitat for biota? Marine sediments range from coarse gravels in areas subjected to much wave and current action, to muds typical of low-energy estuarine areas and to fine silts and clays in deep-sea sediments. The settling velocity of those particles and the ability of any particle to be re-suspended, moved, and redeposited depends on the prevailing hydrographic regime (e.g. see Open University 2002). The latter will in turn influence the transport of a species´ dispersal stages, especially larvae which will then be allowed to settle following metamorphosis under the appropriate hydrographic conditions (defined as hydrographic concentration). Hence the presence of fine sediments will indicate the depositing/accreting areas which may also be suitable for passively settling organisms. Clearly the particle size is of major importance in characterizing sediments, although sediments can also be categorized by their origin (fluvial, biogenic, cosmogenic, etc.) and their material (quartz, carbonates, clays, etc.) (Open University 2002). On a typical sandy beach the coarsest particles lie at the top of the beach and grade down to the finest sediments at the waterline. The top of the beach is dry and there is much windblown sand, since coarse sands drain rapidly, whereas at the lower end of the beach the sediments are wet, with frequent standing pools. Coarse sediment is found at the top of the shore because as the waves break on the beach the heaviest particles sediment out first. Finer particles remain in suspension longer and are carried seaward on the wave backwash. Beaches change their slope over the seasons, being steeper in winter and shallower in summer. A greater degree of wave energy will produce steeper beaches, as particles are pushed up the beach and so may be stored there, whereas gentle waves produce shallow, sloping beaches. Waves hitting the shore obliquely will create sediment movement as longshore drift. Subtidally, waves are important in distributing and affecting sediments down to depths of 100 m, but the effect decreases exponentially with depth and so the dominant subtidal influences on sediment transport are currents.
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"Radiation Stresses, Bound Long Waves and Longshore Current." In Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering, 547–609. World Scientific, 2005. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789812569196_0011.

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"Radiation Stresses, Bound Long Waves and Longshore Current." In Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering, 587–649. World Scientific, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789813147195_0011.

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Soto, María-Victoria, Misael Cabello, and Joselyn Arriagada-González. "Current Geodynamics and Evolutionary Trends of a Headland Bay Beach System in the Semi-Arid Coast of Chile." In Coastal Environments. IntechOpen, 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.94967.

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The Chilean coast is controlled by the tectonics and structure, generating an irregular coastal landscape, with bays, marine terraces, sandy and gravel beaches, sand dune fields and Andean slopes, forming some mega cliffs that are attacked by waves. The Chilean coastline is shaped by headland bay beaches, with a dynamic coast modeled by south-western winds and south–north longshore current. We analyzed the case of the Coquimbo mega headland bay beach, which consists of four headland bay beaches. A methodological study was carried out on the morphometric parameters of the shoreline and the types of beaches dominated by waves along with geomorphological analysis of the coastal zone. We observed a mass transfer process from south to north. The northern sections of the bays are the places with the densest sand dune fields. This concentration of dunes occurs in each bay individually and in the mega bay as well. The sedimentary supply comes from Andean catchments to the shoreline and is transported and reworked by the longshore current to the northern area, where a huge sand field dune has developed, 120 km away from the mouth of Limarí River, the most southern catchment in the study area. In the mega bay, the current trend is a continuous sedimentary supply, despite the semi-arid conditions and the extreme drought that has affected the area since 2011. The study area is also a popular destination in Chile for beach tourism and is a place of interest for the mining industry.
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Rebaudengo Lando, L., and R. Gentile. "Influence of the distribution of the random wave heights on the longshore current velocity." In Maritime Transportation and Exploitation of Ocean and Coastal Resources, 1029–36. Taylor & Francis, 2006. http://dx.doi.org/10.1201/9781439833728.ch122.

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Clayton, Amanda B. "Political Attitudes and Behavior among ILWU Members." In In the Interest of Others. Princeton University Press, 2013. http://dx.doi.org/10.23943/princeton/9780691158563.003.0007.

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This chapter illustrates an original survey of rank-and-file International Longshore and Warehouse Union (ILWU) members. It begins with a specific puzzle: though ILWU members clearly have benefited from increased international trade, the union has maintained a consistent stance opposing trade liberalization for several decades. Interviews with ILWU leaders show that the union's stance appears to be sincere, based on the belief that current international trade rules unfairly benefit multinational corporations while imposing costs on the workers and the environment in both rich and poor countries. The chapter finds that ILWU members are more likely to have strong political opinions; they are more likely to support trade restrictions; and they are more likely to engage in politics, including turning out to vote, protest, and donate to political causes.
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Conference papers on the topic "Longshore currents"

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COHEN, ANNA B., STEFAN G. J. AARNINKHOF, and C. CHRIS CHICKADEL. "VIDEO-DERIVED OBSERVATIONS OF LONGSHORE CURRENTS." In Proceedings of the 29th International Conference. World Scientific Publishing Company, 2005. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789812701916_0117.

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Osiecki, Daniel A., and William R. Dally. "The Influence of Rollers on Longshore Currents." In 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784402429.264.

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Putrevu, Uday, James T. Kirby, Joan Oltman-Shay, and H. Tuba Özkan-Haller. "On the Viscous Destabilization of Longshore Currents." In 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1999. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784404119.015.

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Feddersen, Falk, R. T. Guza, Steve Elgar, and T. H. C. Herbers. "Cross-Shore Structure of Longshore Currents during Duck94." In 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784402429.283.

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Aguilar, Jose, and Jose Javier Diez. "The Theorical Temporal Structure of the Longshore Currents." In 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1989. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780872626874.147.

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Tang, Jun, Yongming Shen, and Yigang Lv. "Numerical Study on Coastal Wave and Near-Shore Current Interaction." In ASME 2014 33rd International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2014-23651.

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Coastal waves and near-shore currents have been investigated by many researchers. This paper developed a two-dimensional numerical model of near-shore waves and currents to study breaking wave induced current. In the model, near-shore water wave was simulated by a parabolic mild slope equation incorporating current effect and wave energy dissipation due to breaking, and current was simulated by a nonlinear shallow water equation incorporating wave exerted radiation stress. Wave radiation stress was calculated based on complex wave amplitude in the parabolic mild slope equation, and this result in an effective method for calculating wave radiation stress using an intrinsic wave propagation angle that differs from the ones of using explicit wave propagation angle. Wave and current interactions were considered by cycling the wave and current equation to a steady state. The model was used to study waves and wave-induced longshore currents at the Obaköy coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey. The numerical results for water wave induced longshore current were validated by measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model, and water waves and longshore currents were analyzed based on the numerical results.
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Refaat, Hossam El-din A. A., Yoshito Tsuchiya, and Yoshiaki Kawata. "Similarity of Velocity Profiles in Non-Uniform Longshore Currents." In 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1991. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780872627765.023.

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Haas, Kevin A., and M. Kemal Cambazoglu. "VIDEO OBSERVATIONS OF LONGSHORE CURRENTS, MYRTLE BEACH, SOUTH CAROLINA." In Proceedings of the 30th International Conference. World Scientific Publishing Company, 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789812709554_0092.

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Goda, Yoshimi. "Computation of Setup and Longshore Currents by Directional Spectral Waves." In Fifth International Conference on Coastal Dynamics. Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers, 2006. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/40855(214)30.

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Svendsen, I. A., and J. Buhr Hansen. "The Interaction of Waves and Currents Over a Longshore Bar." In 20th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. New York, NY: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1987. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780872626003.116.

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Reports on the topic "Longshore currents"

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Gravens, Mark B., and Ping Wang. Data Report: Laboratory Testing of Longshore Sand Transport by Waves and Currents; Morphology Change Behind Headland Structures. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, August 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada471785.

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Lundberg, Dennis L., K. T. Holland, and John C. Church. Validation of the Semi-Empirical Longshore Current Model. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, February 1999. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada361204.

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Oltman-Shay, John, and Uday Putrevu. The Importance Of Alongshore Nonuniformity In Longshore Current Predictions. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, February 1998. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada337201.

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Kraus, Nicholas C., and Magnus Larson. NMLONG: Numerical Model for Simulating the Longshore Current; Report 1, Model Development and Tests. Fort Belvoir, VA: Defense Technical Information Center, June 1991. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada637310.

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