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Journal articles on the topic 'Longshore currents'

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Published: 4 June 2021

Last updated: 1 February 2022

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1

Inman, D. L., and W. H. Quinn. "CURRENTS IN THE SURF ZONE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 2 (January 1, 2000): 3. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v2.3.

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Surface and bottom currents in the surf zone were measured at 15 equally spaced points along two straight beaches with approximately parallel bottom contours. The measurements showed that offshore currents predominate over onshore currents at the bottom, while at the surface there is a slight predominance in the onshore direction. With regard to the longshore component, it was found that surface and bottom currents have a similar velocity distribution. The variability of the longshore component as measured by its standard deviation is equal to or larger than the mean longshore velocity. This wide variation in longshore currents indicates the impracticability of estimating the mean velocity from a single observation of longshore current. It was found that the momentum approach to the prediction of longshore currents by Putnam, Munk and Traylor (1949) leads to useful forecasts provided the beach friction coefficient k is permitted to vary with the longshore velocity, V. The indicated relation is k~v^(-3/2).

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2

Hsu, Hung-Chu. "Edge waves with longshore currents." Quarterly of Applied Mathematics 73, no. 3 (June 16, 2015): 593–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1090/qam/1399.

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3

Bruun, Per. "LONGSHORE CURRENTS IN ONE AND MULTI-BAR PROFILES RELATION TO LITTORAL DRIFT." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 8 (January 29, 2011): 15. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v8.15.

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This paper deals with longshore current theories. Introductorily it gives a brief review of wave theories for breaking waves including theoretical, laboratory as well as field results. Next the longshore current theory based on the momentum inflow over a uniformly sloping beach and bottom (Putnam, Munk and Traylor, 1949) is discussed with special reference to its friction factor. The following chapters deal with two new longshore current theories - both based on the continuity principle. One of them called the rip current approach assumes that all water thrown in by wave breaking runs out in rip currents and will probably be valid for profiles with well developed bars and waves approaching the shore almost perpendicularly. The other theory considers the fact that water from a wave breaking under an angle with the bar flows in with a certain phase difference in time longshore and this will create a longshore slope of the average water table, therefore also a longshore current. The water may return to sea uniformly as undertow or in rip currents or by a combination of both. This theory is particularly valid for waves breaking under a certain, not too small, angle with the bar. In both cases the momentum in the breaking waves is ignored because field observations show that in a well developed bar profile most of the momentum has disappeared inside the bar after wave breaking. Examples of computation of current velocities for one bar as well as multi-bar profiles are given. Next the possible relation between longshore currents and littoral drift is discussed.

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4

Visser, Paul J. "Laboratory measurements of uniform longshore currents." Coastal Engineering 15, no. 5-6 (October 1991): 563–93. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(91)90028-f.

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5

Sokolov, Andrei, and Boris Chubarenko. "Wind Influence on the Formation of Nearshore Currents in the Southern Baltic: Numerical Modelling Results." Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics 59, no. 1-2 (October 1, 2012): 37–48. http://dx.doi.org/10.2478/v10203-012-0003-3.

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Abstract A two-dimensional numerical model was used for a simulation of vertical average longshore currents generated by both wind friction and wind-wave action in the nearshore zone. The modelling domain includes the southern part of the Baltic Proper (all boundaries were closed). Wind, uniform in space and varying in time, was the only forcing in the model. The correlation coefficient higher than 0.8 was obtained by model calibration versus the field measurements of currents conducted at the Lubiatowo field station (southern Baltic) during about 1.5 months in 2006. Comparative simulations of total currents including both wind-induced drift and wave components, and of total currents including only a wind-induced drift component, showed that the input of the drift component into currents in the nearshore zone is greater than commonly believed.Wind-induced drift strongly dominates outside the zone of wave transformation, and its input into the total resulting currents remains noticeable even in a zone between the shoreline and the depth of the first wave breaking. Thus, wind-induced drift constitutes up to 50% of the resulting longshore currents for longshore winds and no less than 20% of the longshore component of currents for winds at 45 degrees to the longshore direction.

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6

Bryan, K. R., and A. J. Bowen. "Bar-trapped edge waves and longshore currents." Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 103, no. C12 (November 15, 1998): 27867–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/98jc02098.

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7

Falqués, A., V. Iranzo, and A. Montoto. "Resonance of longshore currents under topographic forcing." Physics of Fluids A: Fluid Dynamics 5, no. 12 (December 1993): 3071–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.858717.

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8

Yoo, Donghoon. "Wave‐Induced Longshore Currents in Surf Zone." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 120, no. 6 (November 1994): 557–75. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1994)120:6(557).

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9

Svendsen, Ib A., and Rene S. Lorenz. "Velocities in combined undertow and longshore currents." Coastal Engineering 13, no. 1 (May 1989): 55–79. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(89)90032-x.

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10

McDougal, William G., and Robert T. Hudspeth. "Influence of lateral mixing on longshore currents." Ocean Engineering 13, no. 5 (January 1986): 419–33. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(86)90031-4.

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11

Caviglia, Fernando J. "Computation of longshore currents and sediment transport." Computers & Geosciences 20, no. 6 (July 1994): 905–17. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0098-3004(94)90035-3.

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12

Svendsen, Ib A., and Rene S. Lorenz. "THREE DIMENSIONAL FLOW PROFILES ON LITTORAL BEACHES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (January 29, 1988): 52. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.52.

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The problem of combined cross-shore and longshore currents generated by waves in and around a surf zone is considered in its full three-dimensional formulation. The equations for the two current components are decoupled and it is found that for a cylindrical coast with no longshore variations the longshore current variation with depth and distance from the shoreline satisfies a Poisson equation. This equation is solved by a perturbation method and it is shown that the longshore velocities are always larger than the velocities found by classical theory. In the simple uncoupled case, the full 3-D current profile is constructed by combining the results with cross - shore velocities determined in previous publications. Also, the total velocities are larger than velocities found from simple depth averaged models.

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13

Chun, Hwusub, and Kyung-Duck Suh. "Analysis of Longshore Currents with an Eulerian Nearshore Currents Model." Journal of Coastal Research 336 (November 2017): 1352–66. http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/jcoastres-d-16-00180.1.

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14

Umar, Hasdinar, Sabaruddin Rahman, Chairul Paotonan, and Ahmad Yasir Baeda. "In Use of Permeable Groin for Reducing Longshore Sediment Transport at Tanjung Bayang Beach of South Sulawesi." EPI International Journal of Engineering 1, no. 2 (November 20, 2018): 70–73. http://dx.doi.org/10.25042/epi-ije.082018.11.

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Breaking wave near beaches is the main force to generate longshore currents, which moved the sediment at surrounding area. Due to its negative outcome, which are erosion and sedimentation, the need of longshore sediment transport analysis become very important. One of the tools for solving that problem is by using coastal protection structure such as permeable groin. Permeable groin may reduce the rate of longshore sediment transport respectively by changing the level of permeability of the groin itself. The objective of this research was to obtain analytical results of the longshore sediment transport reduction analysis by using permeable groins at Tanjung Bayang Beach of South Sulawesi. Reduction of sediment transport along the beach was analyzed by calculating reduction coefficient, which is the ratio between the longshore current before and after hitting the permeable groins. The result showed that with 40% of permeability, the groin can reduced longshore sediment transport at Tanjung Bayang Beach for almost 50%; from 341.37x103 m3/year to 170.68x103 m3/year.

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15

Winter, G., A. R. van Dongeren, M. A. de Schipper, and J. S. M. van Thiel de Vries. "Rip currents under obliquely incident wind waves and tidal longshore currents." Coastal Engineering 89 (July 2014): 106–19. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.04.001.

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16

Aguilar, Jose, and Jose Javier Diez. "THE THEORICAL TEMPORAL STRUCTURE OF THE LONGSHORE CURRENTS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (January 29, 1988): 146. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.146.

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For a better Knowledge of the causes about the littoral solid transport is essential to experience advances in the littoral hydrodynamic. In this field the longshore currents are may be who play the most important role due to the intensity, the distribution and the relative duration of them, causing the movement of the solid particles due to the suspension of them and the friction in bottom. The first theorical formulation about the longshore currents were established by Bowen (1969), Longet-Higgins (1970) and Thornton (1970). Previously another works trated an aproximation about the problem, obtaining a little precise results basing his works in simplest formulations, it shows in Sonu et alt. (1966).

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17

Chun, Hwusub, and Kyung-Duck Suh. "Numerical Simulation of Parabolic Profile of Longshore Currents." Journal of Coastal Research 85 (May 2018): 941–45. http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/si85-189.1.

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18

Rusu, Eugen, and Silviu Macuta. "NUMERICAL MODELLING OF LONGSHORE CURRENTS IN MARINE ENVIRONMENT." Environmental Engineering and Management Journal 8, no. 1 (2009): 147–51. http://dx.doi.org/10.30638/eemj.2009.022.

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19

Karambas, Theophanis V., and Ekaterini K. Karathanassi. "Longshore Sediment Transport by Nonlinear Waves and Currents." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 130, no. 6 (November 2004): 277–86. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(2004)130:6(277).

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20

Putrevu, Uday, and Ib A. Svendsen. "Shear instability of longshore currents: A numerical study." Journal of Geophysical Research 97, no. C5 (1992): 7283. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/91jc02988.

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21

Kobayashi, Nobuhisa, Entin A. Karjadi, and Bradley D. Johnson. "Dispersion Effects on Longshore Currents in Surf Zones." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 123, no. 5 (September 1997): 240–48. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1997)123:5(240).

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22

Hubertz, Jon M. "Observations of local wind effects on longshore currents." Coastal Engineering 10, no. 3 (September 1986): 275–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(86)90045-1.

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23

Wang, Yan, and Zhi-li Zou. "Longshore currents over barred beach with mild slope." China Ocean Engineering 30, no. 2 (April 2016): 193–204. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s13344-016-0011-0.

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24

Yamaguchi, Masataka. "A NUMERICAL MODEL OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS BASED ON A FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVE THEORY." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (January 29, 1986): 64. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.64.

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A numerical model of wave-Induced nearshore currents taking into account the finite amplitude effect is developed, with a cnoidal wave theory used for the estimation of wave characteristics. The model is applied to the computation of wave transformation and nearshore currents on uniformly sloping beaches and on two-dimensional model topographies. The comparison with the results obtained by a linear model shows that wave nonlinearity has a strong influence on wave transformation in shoaling water and in the surf zone and on the strength of nearshore circulation, but that it does not have much effect on the longshore current profile. Moreover, the validity of the present model is supported by the quantitative agreement with the experiment for wave height variations, and the qualitative correspondence with the experiment for mean water level variation and longshore currents and the observation for nearshore currents.

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25

Pria Pranata, Adi Surya, Novi Andhi Setyo Purwono, and Ary Sismiani. "Analisa Model Matematik Arus Sejajar Pantai Pada Groin Seri Permeable." Techno (Jurnal Fakultas Teknik, Universitas Muhammadiyah Purwokerto) 19, no. 2 (October 31, 2018): 113. http://dx.doi.org/10.30595/techno.v19i2.3173.

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This research is the mathematical model has been made with two groins, permeable and impermeable groins, with the variation is in length and distance; 50 meters, 100 meters, 150 meters and 200 meters. A modelling has been done by using the data of physical modeling study by Chen., et al, 2003, and used as input to the simulation of mathematical models using 2D Boussinesq software.Results of the research showed the influence of variation model long distance between the groins, the reduction of longshore current velocity along the coast with an average 59.21% reduction for the double permeable groin with 50 meters long, 76.02% for 100 meters, 79.50% for 150 meters, 80.49% for 200 meters. The reduction of longshore current velocity along the coast are 57.42% for an impermeable groin groin double with 50 meters, 84.61% for 100 meters, 150% for 88.89 meters, and 89.91% for 200 meters. The distance variation between one groin to the other groin has a result that a longer permeable or impermeable groin affects the reduction longshore current velocity along the coast of the Surf Zone with the addition of longshore current velocity reduction occurs along the coast up to 20%. Reduction of longshore current velocity along the coast by the permeable and impermeable groin Permeable and impermeable groins has not been significantly occured in the long-term groin area exceeding Surf zone with an average additional reduction up to 5%. The longshore current velocity approaching the speed of currents along the coast for the existing conditions at a distance up to 2.4 times of length of groins. And the distance between the groins are too close if we compare to the long groins causing the current direction of movement towards the sea (rip Current).

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26

Suzuki, Takayuki, and Daniel T. Cox. "Statistical Analysis of Longshore Currents on a Barred Beach." Journal of Coastal Research 35, no. 6 (October 31, 2019): 1215. http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/jcoastres-d-18-00151.1.

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27

Howd, Peter A., Anthony J. Bowen, and Robert A. Holman. "Edge Waves in the Presence of Strong Longshore Currents." Journal of Geophysical Research 97, no. C7 (1992): 11357–71. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/92jc00858.

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28

Galvin, Cyril. "Longshore Currents in Two Laboratory Studies: Relevance to Theory." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 117, no. 1 (January 1991): 44–59. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1991)117:1(44).

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29

Rusu, Eugen, Daniel Conley, and Emanuel Ferreira-Coelho. "A hybrid framework for predicting waves and longshore currents." Journal of Marine Systems 69, no. 1-2 (January 2008): 59–73. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2007.02.009.

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30

Guza, R. T., E. B. Thornton, and N. Christensen. "Observations of Steady Longshore Currents in the Surf Zone." Journal of Physical Oceanography 16, no. 11 (November 1986): 1959–69. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(1986)016<1959:ooslci>2.0.co;2.

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31

Whitford, Dennis J., and Edward B. Thornton. "Comparison of wind and wave forcing of longshore currents." Continental Shelf Research 13, no. 11 (November 1993): 1205–18. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0278-4343(93)90049-4.

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32

Schönfeldt, Hans-Jürgen. "On the modification of edge waves by longshore currents." Continental Shelf Research 15, no. 10 (August 1995): 1213–20. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0278-4343(94)00078-2.

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33

Shen, Liang-duo, Zhi-li Zou, and Xi-zeng Zhao. "Linear Analysis of Longshore Currents Instability over Mild Slopes." China Ocean Engineering 32, no. 6 (December 2018): 675–82. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s13344-018-0069-y.

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34

Shepard, F. P., and D. L. Inman. "NEARSHORE CIRCULATION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 1 (May 12, 2010): 5. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v1.5.

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Studies of nearshore circulation were initiated at Scripps Institution during World War II. A method of estimating the velocity of longshore currents from known wave conditions on straight beaches with parallel contours was devised by Munk and Traylor (1945) and later revised by Putnam, Munk and Traylor (1949). Their methods were based on energy and momentum considerations which were applied to the following two types of observations: (1) field observations of longshore currents along the straight beach at Oceanside, California made by Munk and Traylor (1945), and (2) laboratory measurements conducted at the Department of Engineering, University of California.

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35

Cong, Nguyen Chi, Le Dinh Mau, Nguyen Van Tuan, Nguyen Thi Thuy Dung, Phan Thanh Bac, Pham Sy Hoan, and Tran Van Binh. "Rip current simulation on some beaches in coastal Quang Nam province." Tạp chí Khoa học và Công nghệ biển 19, no. 3B (October 21, 2019): 113–24. http://dx.doi.org/10.15625/1859-3097/19/3b/14519.

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This paper presents modelling results of rip currents on the main beaches along coastal Quang Nam province including Ha My, Binh Minh, Tam Thanh and Rang beaches during two typical wind seasons: Northeast monsoon (Northeast wind direction, wind levels: 4, 5, 6) and Southwest monsoon (Southeast wind direction, wind levels: 4, 5) using Mike 21 model. Calculation results show that during the Northeast monsoon, the rip current formed in all beaches. In the scenario of level 4 of wind speed, average rip speed was about 40–50 cm/s. In particular, at Tam Thanh beach area, the rip was a typical one with the components such as feeder current, rip neck and rip head. With the level 5 of wind field, the formation of the rip was clearer, the speed of the rip was stronger, average value was about 50–60 cm/s. Meanwhile, with the level 6 of wind field, the typical rip structure was broken, creating local eddies or longshore currents at some positions, but strengthened at other positions. During the Southwest monsoon, the rip current did not form at the beaches and the longshore currents were dominant.

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36

Svendsen, I. A., and J. Buhr Hansen. "THE INTERACTION OF WAVES AND CURRENTS OVER A LONGSHORE BAR." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (January 29, 1986): 116. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.116.

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A two-dimensional model for waves and steady currents in the surf zone is developed. It is based on a depth integrated and time averaged version of the equations for the conservation of mass, momentum, and wave energy. A numerical solution is described based on a fourth order Runge-Kutta method. The solution yields the variation of wave height, set-up, and current in the surf zone, taking into account the mass flux in the waves. In its general form any wave theory can be used for the wave properties. Specific results are given using the description for surf zone waves suggested by Svendsen (1984a), and in this form the model is used for the wave motion with a current on a beach with a longshore bar. Results for wave height and set-up are compared with measurements by Hansen & Svendsen (1986).

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37

Fan, Daidu, Dac Ve Nguyen, Jianfeng Su, Vuong Van Bui, and Dinh Lan Tran. "Coastal morphological changes in the Red River Delta under increasing natural and anthropic stresses." Anthropocene Coasts 2, no. 1 (January 1, 2019): 51–71. http://dx.doi.org/10.1139/anc-2018-0022.

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River deltas are the best place to study intense human–earth interactions and the resultant morphological changes and sedimentary records. The coastal evolution history of the Red River Delta (RRD) is examined by time-series analysis of multiple coastline locations. We find that spatiotemporal variation in seawall locations and vegetation lines are obviously site-specific due to intense human interference, while changes in 0 m isobaths are highly dependent on external stresses. Coastal erosion and deposition patterns are determined firstly by sediment inputs from different distributaries, and secondly by sediment redistribution with tides, waves, and longshore currents. The causes of chronic erosion along the Hai Hau coast include swift distributary channels, negligible sediment supply by the regional longshore current, and continuous sediment export by local wave-generated longshore and offshore currents. The area of intertidal flats decreased significantly due to land reclamation and decelerating coastal accretion. The area of mangrove forests decreased first due to human deforestation, and then increased gradually due to artificial plantation. Poorly designed coastal infrastructures may increase risks of coastal erosion and flooding disasters. More coastal sectors in the RRD may turn into erosion due to continuous decrease in riverine sediment discharges, deserving more attention on proper coastal protection and management.

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38

Kamel, A. M., and J. W. Johnson. "TRACING COASTAL SEDIMENT MOVEMENT BY NATURALLY RADIOACTIVE MINERALS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 8 (January 29, 2011): 19. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v8.19.

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The process by which sediments are moved along the shore is known as littoral drift and it includes beach drifting and longshore drift (Johnson, 1919). Coarse material is moved along a foreshore in zig-zag paths under the influence of swash and backwash of the waves. The process of longshore drift is due to longshore currents set up within the breaker zone by breaking waves approaching the shoreline at an angle. Although the waves tend to become parallel to the coast as a result of refraction, they usually break at a slight angle to the shore with the result that a littoral current is induced and is effective in moving a mass of water (and the sediment placed in suspension by the breaking waves) slowly along the coast. It is this current combined with the agitating action of the breaking waves, that is the primary factor in causing movement of sand along a coastline. It is believed that the largest percentage of the littoral transport occurs shoreward of the breaking point of the waves .

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39

Zanganeh, Morteza, Abbas Yeganeh-Bakhtiary, and Takao Yamashita. "ANFIS and ANN models for the estimation of wind and wave-induced current velocities at Joeutsu-Ogata coast." Journal of Hydroinformatics 18, no. 2 (December 7, 2015): 371–91. http://dx.doi.org/10.2166/hydro.2015.099.

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In this study, the adaptive network-based fuzzy inference system (ANFIS) and artificial neural network (ANN) were employed to estimate the wind- and wave-induced coastal current velocities. The collected data at the Joeutsu-Ogata coast of the Japan Sea were used to develop the models. In the models, significant wave height, wave period, wind direction, water depth, incident wave angle, and wind speed were considered as the input variables; and longshore and cross-shore current velocities as the output variables. The comparison of the models showed that the ANN model outperforms the ANFIS model. In addition, evaluation of the models versus the multiple linear regression and multiple nonlinear regression with power functions models indicated their acceptable accuracy. A sensitivity test proved the stronger effects of wind speed and wind direction on longshore current velocities. In addition, this test showed great effects of significant wave height on cross-shore currents' velocities. It was concluded that the angle of incident wave, water depth, and significant wave period had weaker influences on the velocity of coastal currents.

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40

Zhang, Zhen-wei, and Zhi-li Zou. "Vertical Distribution of Longshore Currents Over Plane and Barred Beaches." Journal of Hydrodynamics 24, no. 5 (October 2012): 718–28. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s1001-6058(11)60296-5.

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41

Zhang, Zhen-wei, and Zhi-li Zou. "Application of power law to vertical distribution of longshore currents." Water Science and Engineering 12, no. 1 (March 2019): 73–83. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.wse.2019.04.004.

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42

Reniers, A. J. H. M., J. A. Battjes, A. Falqués, and D. A. Huntley. "A laboratory study on the shear instability of longshore currents." Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 102, no. C4 (April 15, 1997): 8597–609. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/96jc03863.

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43

Galvin, Cyril. "Laboratory measurements of uniform longshore currents, by P.J. Visser: Comments." Coastal Engineering 18, no. 3-4 (December 1992): 333–41. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(92)90027-r.

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44

Ostrowski, Rafał, Jan Schönhofer, Magdalena Stella, Alexey Grave, Aleksander Babakov, and Boris Chubarenko. "South Baltic rip currents detected by a field survey." Baltica 33, no. 1 (August 1, 2020): 11–20. http://dx.doi.org/10.5200/baltica.2020.1.2.

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The paper presents results of experimental investigations of currents in the nearshore region of the south Baltic Sea. The analysis is based on the field data collected near Lubiatowo (Poland) using the measuring equipment which was simultaneously operated both by the Polish and Russian research teams. The venture was aimed at detection of rip currents that are rare and insufficiently explored phenomena in the south Baltic coastal zone. The data include wind velocity and direction, deep-water wave buoy records and currents surveyed by means of drifters. The measurements were carried out in the area whose hydrodynamics, lithodynamics and morphodynamics are typical of the south Baltic sandy coast. It appears that the nearshore water flows are mostly represented by longshore wave-driven currents with mean velocities of 0.22–0.53 m/s, and the maximum velocity of 1.32 m/s. Water circulation patterns resembling rip currents with velocities of up to 0.34 m/s were identified only on one day, when specific wave conditions occurred at the study site. Contrary to strong longshore currents generated by storm waves, rip currents occur under mild or moderate wave conditions, when many beach users are willing to swim in nearshore waters. The present findings can therefore be useful for the improvement of swimmers’ safety in the south Baltic Sea regions.

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45

Sato, Shinji, Keisuke Murakami, Kunihiro Watanabe, Yuuichi Okamura, Shin Hashimoto, and Masahiro Ohno. "ECO-SYSTEM BASED BEACH EROSION CONTROL BY BERM NOURISHMENT COMBINED WITH BURIED SAND TUBE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 102. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.risk.102.

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Miyazaki Coast is a 10 km stretch sandy beach between the Miyazaki Port and the Hitotsuse River, located south of Japan facing the Pacific Ocean. Significant beach erosion has been observed owing to the entrapment of sand in the harbor area and the blockage of longshore sand transport by the river mouth jetties. Sato et al. (ICCE 2010) estimated that the direction of the long-term longshore sand transport is to the southward on the basis of thermo-luminescence measurement of beach sediments. Continuous bathymetry surveys indicated the southward longshore sand transport rate at 200 thousand m3/year. However, a large variability of the incident wave direction suggested the variability in the direction of the longshore transport. Occasional attacks of typhoon storms appeared to accelerate the erosion. As a countermeasure to mitigate the erosion, sand nourishment has been introduced since 2008 with the amount of 50 to 80 thousand m3/year. Three groins were constructed to decrease the longshore transport. However, further erosion has been observed by typhoon storms even on the nourished area. This paper describes the results of on-site monitoring of waves, currents and topography change to understand the role of typhoon storms in beach erosion and to investigate the performance of eco-system based erosion control works.

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46

Black, KP, and PE McShane. "Influence of surface gravity waves on wind-driven circulation in intermediate depths on an exposed coast." Marine and Freshwater Research 41, no. 3 (1990): 353. http://dx.doi.org/10.1071/mf9900353.

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Coastal experiments in 18 m depths showed the systematic reduction of wind-driven longshore currents in the presence of surface waves. Predicted wind-driven currents were found to be nearly an order of magnitude greater than measurements if the wave influence was neglected. However, satisfactory predictions were made when the increased effective bed friction due to the non-linear interaction between the waves and currents was accounted for. This paper assesses the applicability of wave/current interaction theory to natural open-coast environments. The results are relevant to the prediction of dispersal (e.g. of pollutants or larvae) on open coasts.

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47

Lubis, Ashar Muda, Nia Veronica, Rio Saputra, Juhendi Sinaga, M. Hasanudin, and Edi Kusmanto. "Investigasi Arus Sejajar Pantai (Longshore Current) di Daerah Abrasi Bengkulu Utara." Jurnal Kelautan Tropis 23, no. 3 (November 17, 2020): 316–24. http://dx.doi.org/10.14710/jkt.v23i3.8045.

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The coastal area of Serangai Village is directly facing the open sea; as a result it is vulnerable to coastal abrasion. Longshore currents can accelerate the process of coastal abrasion. The study was aimed to determine the speed and direction of current as well as the existence of the longshore current at the Serangai. Field observation was conducted on 5-7 November 2018. The results showed that the frequency distribution of current at speed of 0-10 cm/s reached 69%, and at speed of 10-20 cm/s reached 25%. The highest speed of 20-30 cm/s has a frequency of 6 %. Moreover, the direction of the majority of ocean currents is to the southeast (120o-150o), showing that the current is more likely to be parallel to the shoreline called longshore current that can accelerate shoreline Serangai Village, Bengkulu. However, further research is needed to see variability of current associated with the season (monsoon). Wilayah pesisir Desa Serangai berhadapan langsung dengan laut lepas; sehingga rentan terhadap abrasi pantai. Arus sejajar pantai dapat mempercepat proses abrasi pantai. Penelitian bertujuan untuk mengetahui kecepatan dan arah arus serta keberadaan arus sejajar pantai di Serangai. Pengamatan lapangan dilakukan pada tanggal 5-7 November 2018. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa distribusi frekuensi arus pada kecepatan 0-10 cm/s mencapai 69%, dan pada kecepatan 10-20 cm/s mencapai 25%. Kecepatan tertinggi 20-30 cm/s memiliki frekuensi 6%. Selain itu, arah arus laut mayoritas ke arah tenggara (120o-150o), menunjukkan bahwa arus lebih cenderung sejajar dengan garis pantai yang disebut arus sejajar pantai yang dapat mempercepat garis pantai Desa Serangai, Bengkulu. Namun, penelitian lebih lanjut diperlukan untuk melihat variabilitas arus yang terkait dengan musim (monsun).

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48

Albino, Jacqueline, and Kenitiro Suguio. "Sedimentation processes and beach morphodynamics active at the Doce River mouth, Espírito Santo State, Brazil." Anais da Academia Brasileira de Ciências 82, no. 4 (December 2010): 1031–44. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/s0001-37652010000400023.

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The coastal sedimentation model in the Doce River mouth and surroundings extends beyond the hydraulic jetty effect created by its stream-flow. During flooding, marine sediments transported by longshore currents are retained on the updrift side, causing strandline progradation. As the longshore current direction varies, local depositional and erosional effects can be produced and identified laterally within beach profiles from north and south of the Doce River mouth area. Sedimentological studies carried out in this river, beach and adjacent inner continental shelf sands showed that, at present, the influence of Doce River sediments is restricted to the area surrounding its mouth. Meanwhile, beach morphodynamic stages and present-day coastal-plain processes of sedimentation are directly affected by the Doce River discharge as a natural continuation of the Quaternary geological evolution of the area.

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Hamilton, David G., and Bruce A. Ebersole. "Establishing uniform longshore currents in a large-scale sediment transport facility." Coastal Engineering 42, no. 3 (March 2001): 199–218. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0378-3839(00)00059-4.

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Perkovic, D., T. C. Lippmann, and S. J. Frasier. "Longshore Surface Currents Measured by Doppler Radar and Video PIV Techniques." IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing 47, no. 8 (August 2009): 2787–800. http://dx.doi.org/10.1109/tgrs.2009.2016556.

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