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Journal articles on the topic 'Mount Everest Expedition (1978)'

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Published: 4 June 2021

Last updated: 27 July 2025

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1

Towell, Elaine. "First College member conquers Everest." Bulletin of the Royal College of Surgeons of England 89, no. 2 (2007): 68–69. http://dx.doi.org/10.1308/147363507x172545.

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Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay were first in 1953. Since then, over 2,500 people have followed in their footsteps and on 21 May 2006, Andrew Sutherland became the first British surgeon to reach the summit of Mount Everest. Travelling as the team doctor, Mr Sutherland was part of the EVERESTMAX expedition who recently completed the highest climb on earth, commencing at the Dead Sea in Jordan and ending at the summit of Mount Everest. Mr Sutherland joined the expedition at Everest base camp as the team prepared for their ascent of the challenging north-east ridge.

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2

West, JB. "Climbing Mount Everest Without Oxygen." Physiology 1, no. 1 (1986): 23–25. http://dx.doi.org/10.1152/physiologyonline.1986.1.1.23.

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The ascent of Mount Everest (altitude 8,848 m) by two climbers without supplementary oxygen in 1978 was a feat that astonished many physiologists;indeed, measurements of maximal oxygen uptake at lower altitudes suggested that it would be impossible. Data obtained in 1981 at extreme altitudes, including the summit itself, showed that man can tolerate the extreme hypoxia only by an enormous increase in ventilation. Even so, the arterial PO2 is apparently less that 30 Torr and maximal oxygen intake only about one liter per minute. Under these conditions man is at the utmost limit of tolerance to

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3

Bjerneld, Hakan. "Swedish Mount Everest Expedition, 1991 October 23, 1991." Journal of Wilderness Medicine 3, no. 1 (1992): 86. http://dx.doi.org/10.1580/0953-9859-3.1.86.

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4

Larkin, Marilynn. "Mount Everest telemedicine expedition tracked on the web." Lancet 353, no. 9163 (1999): 1536. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0140-6736(05)67237-6.

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5

Riley, N. D. "THE RHOPALOCERA OF THE THIRD MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION (1924)." Transactions of the Royal Entomological Society of London 75, no. 1 (2009): 119–29. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2311.1927.tb00064.x.

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6

Andrewes., H. E. "THE CARABIDAE OF THE THIRD MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION, 1924." Transactions of the Royal Entomological Society of London 78, no. 1 (2009): 1–44. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2311.1930.tb01198.x.

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7

Heggie, Vanessa. "Science in an extreme environment: The 1963 American Mount Everest expedition." Centaurus 60, no. 1-2 (2018): 130–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/1600-0498.12181.

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8

Somervell, T. H. "The meteorological results of the mount everest expedition. A. The observations." Quarterly Journal of the Royal Meteorological Society 52, no. 218 (2007): 131–44. http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/qj.49705221803.

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9

Pelto, Mauri, Prajjwal Panday, Tom Matthews, Jon Maurer, and L. Baker Perry. "Observations of Winter Ablation on Glaciers in the Mount Everest Region in 2020–2021." Remote Sensing 13, no. 14 (2021): 2692. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/rs13142692.

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Recent observations of rising snow lines and reduced snow-covered areas on glaciers during the October 2020–January 2021 period in the Nepal–China region of Mount Everest in Landsat and Sentinel imagery highlight observations that significant ablation has occurred in recent years on many Himalayan glaciers in the post-monsoon and early winter periods. For the first time, we now have weather stations providing real-time data in the Mount Everest region that may sufficiently transect the post-monsoon snow line elevation region. These sensors have been placed by the Rolex National Geographic Perp

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10

Hoyt, C. Jay. "Physicians on Mount Everest–A clinical account of the 1981 American Medical Research Expedition to Everest." Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery 76, no. 4 (1985): 668. http://dx.doi.org/10.1097/00006534-198510000-00106.

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11

Joshi, Sunil Kumar, and Sugam Pokharel. "SS03-03 CLIMATE CHANGE AND ITS IMPACT ON OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH (OSH) OF SHERPA MOUNTAINEERS." Occupational Medicine 74, Supplement_1 (2024): 0. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/occmed/kqae023.0059.

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Abstract Introduction The current climate change scenario poses significant challenges for mountaineering expeditions. The accelerated melting of glaciers, altered climbing conditions, and changing weather patterns are reshaping the mountaineering process. The changing climate has significantly amplified the hazards linked to climbing, leading to increased frequency and intensity of avalanches and rockfall. The objective of this study was to study the effect of climate change factors on the job of Sherpa mountaineers on expedition to Mount Everest. Materials and Methods A cross-sectional study

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12

West, J. B. "Alexander M. Kellas and the physiological challenge of Mt. Everest." Journal of Applied Physiology 63, no. 1 (1987): 3–11. http://dx.doi.org/10.1152/jappl.1987.63.1.3.

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Alexander M. Kellas (1868–1921) was a British physiologist who made pioneering contributions to the exploration of Everest and to the early physiology of extreme altitudes, but his physiological contributions have been almost completely overlooked. Although he had a full-time faculty position at the Middlesex Hospital Medical School in London, he was able to make eight expeditions to the Himalayas in the first two decades of the century, and by 1919 when the first official expedition to Everest was being planned, he probably knew more about the approaches than anybody else. But his most intere

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13

Tunny, Terry J., James Gelder, Richard D. Gordon, et al. "EFFECTS OF ALTITUDE ON ATRIAL NATRIURETIC PEPTIDE: THE BICENTENNIAL MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION." Clinical and Experimental Pharmacology and Physiology 16, no. 4 (1989): 287–91. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1440-1681.1989.tb01559.x.

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14

Pugh, L. G. C. "Himalayan Rations with Special Reference to the 1953 Expedition to Mount Everest." Wilderness & Environmental Medicine 15, no. 2 (2004): 125–34. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s1080-6032(04)70900-x.

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15

Khanal, P., L. Thapa, A. M. Shrestha, et al. "Cerebral Venous Sinus Thrombosis during Everest Expedition: A Case Report and Review of the Literature." Case Reports in Neurological Medicine 2016 (2016): 1–3. http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2016/8314040.

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Cerebral venous sinus thrombosis (CVST) is a rare but serious disorder that is associated with a poor clinical outcome. We report a 35-year-old man who had a severe headache and diplopia while climbing Mount Everest. His MR venography showed right transverse and right sigmoid sinus thrombosis. He improved on anticoagulant and symptomatic measures. Cerebral venous sinus thrombosis at high altitude is discussed.

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16

Bayne, Ronald. "Dr Arthur Wakefield on Mount Everest in 1922: ‘This has not been by any Manner of Means a Picnic”." Journal of Medical Biography 11, no. 3 (2003): 150–55. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/096777200301100309.

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In 1922 Dr Arthur Wakefield, a general practitioner from Cumbria, reached the North Col of Mt Everest at 23,000 feet as a member of the first British team to attempt the summit. As well as being a climber, he provided medical care to his comrades, who included George Leigh Mallory and George Finch. Yet, in their accounts of the expedition, several climbers portrayed him as a nervous old man and a “complete passenger”. However, his letters home and a small daily diary suggest he was a wise and caring physician. His motivation for joining this expedition at the age of 46 was somewhat different f

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17

Stephenson, J. "Oligochaeta from Various Regions, including those collected by the Mount Everest Expedition 1924." Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London 95, no. 3 (2009): 879–907. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1469-7998.1925.tb07109.x.

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18

MOHAN, JOSEPH, JEFFERY R. STONE, KIRSTEN NICHOLSON, KLAUS NEUMANN, CAROLYN DOWLING, and SUBODH SHARMA. "Lindavia biswashanti, a new diatom species (Bacillariophyta) from Gokyo Cho, Himalayan Range, Nepal." Phytotaxa 364, no. 1 (2018): 101. http://dx.doi.org/10.11646/phytotaxa.364.1.7.

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A new species of Bacillariophyta (diatom) is described from Gokyo Cho, a lake near Mount Everest in the Himalayan Mountain Range. Water and algal samples were collected during an expedition to Sagarmatha National Park (SNP), Nepal in May 2016. Samples collected during this expedition reveal a new species of Lindavia, described herein with ecological information provided. The new species of Lindavia has three triangular undulations and depressions in the central area. This species has a likeness to the Pantocsekiella ocellata sensu lato group. It differs from the species in this group in undula

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19

Patitucci, M., D. Lugrin, and G. Pagès. "Angiogenic/lymphangiogenic factors and adaptation to extreme altitudes during an expedition to Mount Everest." Acta Physiologica 196, no. 2 (2009): 259–65. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1748-1716.2008.01915.x.

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20

Rodway, George W. "George Ingle Finch And The Mount Everest Expedition of 1922: Breaching The 8000-m Barrier." High Altitude Medicine & Biology 8, no. 1 (2007): 68–76. http://dx.doi.org/10.1089/ham.2006.1034.

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21

Suarez, Fernando F., and Juan S. Montes. "An Integrative Perspective of Organizational Responses: Routines, Heuristics, and Improvisations in a Mount Everest Expedition." Organization Science 30, no. 3 (2019): 573–99. http://dx.doi.org/10.1287/orsc.2018.1271.

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22

Zieliński, Grzegorz. "Who won the fight for Everest? – the century of the death of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine." Sport i Turystyka. Środkowoeuropejskie Czasopismo Naukowe 8, no. 1 (2025): 11–34. https://doi.org/10.16926/sit.2025.01.01.

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The year 2024 marks the 100th anniversary of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine’s climb (June 8, 1924). Their ascent remains one of the greatest mysteries of Mount Everest. The purpose of this article is to celebrate the 1924 expedition and to summarize the available knowledge about what may have happened on 8 June 1924. George Mallory and Andrew “Sandy” Irvine certainly reached the height of the first step (8564 m). Based on Odell’s observations, it can be inferred that they have also overcome the altitude of at least the second step (8610 m). It is likely that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine

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23

Ghimire, Kaman, Arnab Singh, Arbindra Khadka, Binod Dawadi, and Dibas Shrestha. "A Meteorological Analysis from the Southern Slope of Mt. Everest, Nepal." Jalawaayu 3, no. 1 (2023): 73–96. http://dx.doi.org/10.3126/jalawaayu.v3i1.52069.

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Mt. Everest is the highest mountain in the world, with an elevation ending at 8848.86 m above sea level, providing unique opportunity for direct observation of the upper troposphere. Utilizing the data from recently established five automatic weather stations (AWSs) network along the Everest climbing route, as part of the National Geographic and Rolex Perpetual Planet Expedition to Mount Everest 2019, from June 2019 to May 2020, this study investigates the meteorological environment over the southern slope of the Mt. Everest. Precipitation, temperature, radiations (income and outgoing short wa

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24

Moore, G. W. K., J. L. Semple, and G. Hoyland. "Global Warming, El Niño, and High-Impact Storms at Extreme Altitude: Historical Trends and Consequences for Mountaineers." Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 50, no. 11 (2011): 2197–209. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jamc-d-11-023.1.

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AbstractThe twentieth century was bracketed by two high-profile events on Mount Everest: the 1924 Mallory and Irvine disappearance and the 1996 Into Thin Air storm. During both events, fatalities occurred high on the mountain during deteriorating weather conditions. Although there have been dramatic improvements in knowledge of the mountain and in the technology used on it, it is shown that an unappreciated change that has also occurred, as a result of warming in the region, is an increase in barometric pressure. A rare and unique set of meteorological data collected at various elevations on t

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25

Pollard, Andrew J., Peter W. Barry, Nick P. Mason, et al. "Hypoxia, Hypocapnia and Spirometry at Altitude." Clinical Science 92, no. 6 (1997): 593–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1042/cs0920593.

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1. Both hypoxia and hypocapnia can cause broncho-constriction in humans, and this could have a bearing on performance at high altitude or contribute to altitude sickness. We studied the relationship between spirometry, arterial oxygen saturation and end-tidal carbon dioxide (ETCO2) concentration in a group of healthy lowland adults during a stay at high altitude, and then evaluated the response to supplementary oxygen and administration of a β2 agonist 2. We collected spirometric data from 51 members of the 1994 British Mount Everest Medical Expedition at sea level (barometric pressure 101.2–1

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26

Marina Fischer, Frida. "SS03 CLIMATE CHANGES AND OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH." Occupational Medicine 74, Supplement_1 (2024): 0. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/occmed/kqae023.0056.

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Abstract The session ‘Climate changes and occupational safety and health’ (OSH) aims to have five presentations: a general approach of the negative OSH impact of climate change on organizations; climate changes and aging workers; climate change and its impact on OSH of Sherpa mountaineers; Arctic cooperation for developing a framework of activities for managing thermal strain at outdoors workplaces in a changing climate; and the connections among poverty, education, work and the climate agenda. The presentations are to explore and discuss: a) the negative OSH impact of climate change on organi

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27

Кобзова, Светлана, and Svetlana Kobzova. "Volunteering in tourism » and «voluntourism»: Current state and prospects of development." Services in Russia and abroad 9, no. 3 (2015): 4–21. http://dx.doi.org/10.12737/14389.

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The article is devoted to the problem of the current state and prospects of development of volunteering in tourism and voluntourism. The correlation between the concepts &#34;volunteering&#34;, &#34;volunteering in tourism&#34; and &#34;voluntourism&#34; is disclosed; the short historical information about development of volunteering and voluntourism is given; the examples of classic tourism volunteer movement (participation of volunteers in the Olympic games in China, programs of World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms, projects like Hampton Save-A-Landmark, Turtle T

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28

Jakubik, Katarzyna, Artur Magiera, and Rajmund Tomik. "ANALYSIS OF EXERCISE INTENSITY AND THE LEVEL OF THE BODY’S ADAPTATION TO HIGH ALTITUDE CONDITIONS WHILE TREKKING IN THE HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS." Journal of Kinesiology and Exercise Sciences 26, no. 76 (2016): 23–28. http://dx.doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0010.0925.

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Aim. The authors submitting this article considering that hiking at high altitudes is a form of active sport tourism, which enjoys growing popularity among tourists worldwide, assumed that the practice of trekking at altitudes above 2,500 meters (above sea level) is equivalent to activity of high intensity and carries a risk of high-altitude diseases. Basic procedures. The authors claim that despite the rapid progress of medical science, the problem of the economy of oxygen at high altitudes is not clearly understood. It is still the subject of many discussions and theoretical considerations.

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29

Bhatta, Badri Nath. "Prosperity through Tourists in Lamjung District: An Anthropological Outlook." Interdisciplinary Research in Education 4, no. 2 (2019): 132–48. http://dx.doi.org/10.3126/ire.v4i2.27936.

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The study areas of anthropology have been growing day by day. Therefore, it has concerned with various parts of society such as sanitation, water supply, poverty, traditional practice, folk music, tourism etc as multidisciplinary areas. In fact, anthropology and tourism are co-evolutionary process in the path of their developments because they help each other in many ways. Traditionally, tourism and tourist are major anthropological sources of information to analyse the situation of then and present society and culture. Similarly, tourist can enjoy visiting any places by learning anthropologic

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30

Wayne Askew, E. "Food for High-Altitude Expeditions: Pugh Got It Right in 1954—A Commentary on the Report by L.G.C.E. Pugh: “Himalayan Rations With Special Reference to the 1953 Expedition to Mount Everest”." Wilderness & Environmental Medicine 15, no. 2 (2004): 121–24. http://dx.doi.org/10.1580/1080-6032(2004)015[0121:ffhepg]2.0.co;2.

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31

Bimm, Jordan. "Philip W. Clements, Science in an Extreme Environment: The 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition. Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press, 2018. Pp. xvii + 269. ISBN 978-0-8229-4511-6. $39.95 (paperback)." British Journal for the History of Science 53, no. 1 (2020): 121–23. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0007087420000072.

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32

Inkpen, Dani K. "Philip W. Clements. Science in an Extreme Environment: The 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition. xvii + 269 pp., figs., notes, bibl., index. Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press, 2018. $39.95 (cloth). ISBN 9780822945116." Isis 111, no. 1 (2020): 215–16. http://dx.doi.org/10.1086/707852.

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33

Ferretti, Guido, and Giacomo Strapazzon. "A revision of maximal oxygen consumption and exercise capacity at altitude 70 years after the first climb of Mount Everest." Journal of Physiology, February 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.1113/jp285606.

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AbstractOn the 70th anniversary of the first climb of Mount Everest by Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay, we discuss the physiological bases of climbing Everest with or without supplementary oxygen. After summarizing the data of the 1953 expedition and the effects of oxygen administration, we analyse the reasons why Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler succeeded without supplementary oxygen in 1978. The consequences of this climb for physiology are briefly discussed. An overall analysis of maximal oxygen consumption () at altitude follows. In this section, we discuss the reasons for the non‐line

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34

Rodway, George W., and Graham Hoyland. "T. Howard Somervell: War Surgeon, Everest Pioneer, and Medical Missionary." Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, December 20, 2024. https://doi.org/10.1177/10806032241303719.

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A full century has passed since George Leigh-Mallory and Andrew (Sandy) Irvine disappeared on the upper reaches of Mount Everest in June 1924. Theodore Howard Somervell (April 16, 1890–January 23, 1975), mountaineer, surgeon, and medical missionary, also was a key player in the 1924 expedition—as well as the 1922 Everest expedition where he was a member of the first ever team of climbers to break the 8000-m barrier. More commonly known as Howard or T.H., Somervell was one of those rare individuals whose multiple talents qualified him as nothing short of a polymath while simultaneously providin

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35

Blaustein, Anna. "An Ice Core from the Roof of the World." Eos 101 (December 14, 2020). http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2020eo152621.

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36

Maurer, Eva. "Cold War, 'Thaw' and 'Everlasting Friendship': Soviet Mountaineers and Mount Everest, 1953–1960." Taylor & Francis, January 1, 2009. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.811045.

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In 1953, two events affected the community of Soviet mountaineers each in their own way. Stalin died and the world's highest summit, Mount Everest, was climbed for the first time. This article traces how the story of Everest's conquest was transmitted to the Soviet public: a slow process reflecting the transition from Stalinist isolation to Khrushchev's 'Thaw'. Between 1954 and 1960, the first personal contacts with Everest expedition leader John Hunt then opened up a window to the world (not only) for Soviet mountaineers, while at the same time the blossoming Sino-Soviet friendship of the mid

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37

Matthews, Tom, Baker Perry, Arbindra Khadka, et al. "Weather observations reach the summit of Mount Everest." Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society, September 9, 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/bams-d-22-0120.1.

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Abstract The predictability of the weather on Mt. Everest’s upper slopes can be a matter of life or death for those trying to climb the world’s highest mountain, yet the performance of forecasts has been almost unknown due to a lack of surface observations. The extent to which climate change may be affecting this iconic location is also uncertain for the same reason. To address this data limitation, the National Geographic and Rolex Perpetual Planet Expedition installed the world’s highest weather station network (reaching within 420 m of the summit) on the Nepal side of Mount Everest in 2019.

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38

Olatunji, Mayowa A., Stephen Cornish, Phillip Gardiner, and Gordon G. Giesbrecht. "Contributions of Griffith Pugh to Success on Mt. Everest and His Impact on the Advancement of Altitude and Environmental Physiology." Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, June 11, 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/10806032241259499.

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Griffith Pugh, MD (1909–1994), was a pioneer in altitude physiology. During World War II, he developed training protocols in Lebanon to improve soldier performance at altitude and in the cold. In 1951 he was chosen to join the British Everest team as a scientist. In preparation, he developed strategies for success on a training expedition on Cho Oyu in 1952. Results from Cho Oyu led to the use of supplemental oxygen at higher flow rates during ascent than used previously (4 L/min vs 2 L/min) and continued use (at a reduced rate of 2 L/min) during descent, enabling increased performance and imp

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Rodway, George W., and Robert B. Schoene. "West Ridge Forerunner: Thomas F. Hornbein and the Development of the Maytag Oxygen Mask for the 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition." Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, June 30, 2025. https://doi.org/10.1177/10806032251351587.

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Those with an interest in the history of mountaineering are aware of the visionary achievement of the first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest—and first traverse of the mountain—by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld during the 1963 American Mount Everest expedition led by Norman Dyrunfurth. In many respects, this climb defined Hornbein (1930–2023) in the eyes of the international mountaineering community. One aspect of his career in high altitude mountaineering that also reflected his professional interests has received scant attention. This largely overlooked contribution was that of the design

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40

Błażejczyk, Krzysztof, George Havenith, and Robert K. Szymczak. "Simulations of the human heat balance during Mount Everest summit attempts in spring and winter." International Journal of Biometeorology, December 19, 2023. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00484-023-02594-1.

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AbstractThe majority of research dealing with the impacts of the Himalayan climate on human physiology focuses on low air temperature, high wind speed, and low air pressure and oxygen content, potentially leading to hypothermia and hypoxia. Only a few studies describe the influence of the weather conditions in the Himalayas on the body’s ability to maintain thermal balance. The aim of the present research is to trace the heat exchange between humans and their surroundings during a typical, 6-day summit attempt of Mount Everest in the spring and winter seasons. Additionally, an emergency night

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41

Vonnard, Philippe. "Becoming a Leading Player in Protecting the Mountain Environment: The Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme and the Path to the 1982 Kathmandu Declaration." Sport History Review, 2024, 1–18. http://dx.doi.org/10.1123/shr.2023-0025.

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In La Moitié de la Gloire, Axel Mayenfisch’s documentary about the 1952 Swiss expedition to Chomolungma (Mount Everest), André Roch recalls how the retreating climbers simply abandoned much of their gear, either leaving it where it was or “throwing it into holes [crevasses].” Roch’s tale was by no means unusual, as mountaineers at that time gave little thought to what became of their waste. By the 1970s, however, climbers were becoming increasingly aware of their impact on the environment. The resulting change of attitude led many mountaineering organizations to take concrete steps to protect

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42

Davis, Susan. "Wandering and Wildflowering: Walking with Women into Intimacy and Ecological Action." M/C Journal 22, no. 4 (2019). http://dx.doi.org/10.5204/mcj.1566.

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Hidden away at the ends of streets, behind suburban parks and community assets, there remain remnants of the coastal wallum heathlands that once stretched from Caloundra to Noosa, in Queensland, Australia. From late July to September, these areas explode with colour, a springtime wonderland of white wedding bush, delicate ground orchids, the pastels and brilliance of pink boronias, purple irises, and the diverse profusion of yellow bush peas. These gifts of nature are still relatively unknown and unappreciated, with most locals, and Australians at large, having little knowledge of the remarkab

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