Academic literature on the topic 'Nationalism and clothing – Brunei'

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Journal articles on the topic "Nationalism and clothing – Brunei"

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Whiting, Allen S. "Chinese Nationalism and Foreign Policy After Deng." China Quarterly 142 (June 1995): 295–316. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0305741000034950.

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As the Deng era approaches its end, concern abroad, particularly in East Asia, focuses on how the People's Republic of China (PRC) will cope with territorial disputes with Japan, Vietnam, the Philippines, Malaysia, Brunei and India, and the continued quest for Taiwan. Meanwhile Chinese military modernization steadily increases the People's Liberation Army (PLA) air and sea power projection. The question arises: might a beleaguered post-Deng leadership seek to strengthen its legitimacy through exploitation of Chinese nationalism and if so, how would this manifest itself in foreign relations?
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Royyani, Muh Arif, and Muhammad Shobaruddin. "Islam, State, and Nationalism in Brunei Darussalam, India, Indonesia, and Malaysia: A Comparative Perspective." International Journal Ihya' 'Ulum al-Din 21, no. 2 (February 16, 2020): 182. http://dx.doi.org/10.21580/ihya.21.2.4832.

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<p><span lang="EN-US">Islam has comprehensive roles in some aspects of human activity. It enlarged from theological aspect to political aspects. Some former colonized countries where Islam was coexisted, this religion became an embryo of nationalist movements during colonization era. This essay scrutinizes the role of Islam in escalating nationalism during colonization era and it relation with the states in post colonization era in four former colonized countries namely Brunei Darussalam, India, Indonesia, and Malaysia. By using comparative method, the essay researched some main literature (library research) related to Islam and nationalism. It was founded that Islam has significant roles in nationalist movement in the four analyzed countries through several channels. Meanwhile, in the post-independence era, the relation between Islam and state system are variably. In India, Islam is separated from state system (secular). In contrast, Islamic ideology became the main sources of state system in Brunei Darussalam (adopted entirely) and Malaysia (adopted partially). Then, Islam in Indonesia seems like “a gray zone” because the country does not using Islamic law but still adopting Islamic thoughts in several cases. </span></p>
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Bin Kamis, Izzah Naqibah, and Muhammed Sahrin Bin Haji Masri. "Shaer yang di-Pertuan: Tinjuan Historis Relasi Umara dan Ulama di Brunei Darussalam." FIKRAH 8, no. 1 (May 29, 2020): 157. http://dx.doi.org/10.21043/fikrah.v8i1.7063.

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Umara and Ulama are two groups who are very influential and has very basic relationships on the State of Brunei Darussalam's growth. Basically, Ulama are known as someone who inherits Anbiya's character, they play a role as murshid in Malay society. This phenomenon has been explained by the importance of their names in some rare materials such as manuscripts, stones and artifacts, <em>hikayat</em> and so on. But The Ulama rarely present it as a poetic/syair approach. The work of "Shaer Yang Di-Pertuan" is one of the poems/syair ever written and can be considered as the most important part of Brunei Darussalam. This poems/syair was written by Pehin Royal Khatib Awang Abdul Razak bin Hasanuddin, a famous Ulama from Brunei, around the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This poems/syair was produced by Pehin Siraja Khatib Awang Abdul Razak bin Hasanuddin, a famous Brunei Ulama around the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. There are many important events during the reign of Sultan Muhammad Jamalul Alam II (26th Sultan of Brunei) featured in this poems/syair. Based on it background, this study will explain some of the key components of the "Syaer Yang Di-Pertuan". In addition, there are some explanations of how the umara-ulama relationship works at the same time will highlight some of the ulama who involved directly. This is because they have a significant influence on the struggle that took place at that time, especially in spreading Islam in the NBD and its role in the development of nationalism and governance in Brunei Darussalam
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Reid, Anthony. "Understanding Melayu (Malay) as a Source of Diverse Modern Identities." Journal of Southeast Asian Studies 32, no. 3 (October 2001): 295–313. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022463401000157.

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This article attempts to bring together recent literature about the typology of nationalism, with the ways in which ‘Malay’ or ‘Melayu’ have been used as the core of an ethnie or a nationalist project. Different meanings of ‘Melayu’ were salient at different times in Sumatra, in the Peninsula and in the eastern Archipelago, and the Dutch and British used their respective translations of it very differently. Modern ethno-nationalist projects in Malaysia and Brunei made ‘Melayu’ a contested and often divisive concept, whereas its translation into the hitherto empty term ‘Indonesia’ might have provided an easier basis for territorial, or even ultimately civic, nationalism in that country.
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STOCKWELL, A. J. "Britain and Brunei, 1945–1963: Imperial Retreat and Royal Ascendancy." Modern Asian Studies 38, no. 4 (October 2004): 785–819. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0026749x04001271.

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An organizing principle of Britain's pre-war empire was collaboration with indigenous monarchies. Secure on their thrones, they legitimated British rule as well as assisting it in practical ways. While friendly princes were assets, however, uncooperative ones could be liabilities; they might obstruct attempts to exploit their resources or to modernize their governments. After the Second World War, British priorities and strategies changed. With their backs to the wall they switched from supporting princes to accommodating politicians. There was no obvious role for them in new nation-states and in many dependencies indigenous monarchies were swept aside by the onrush of nationalism. Yet in Malaya and Brunei they survived: the rulers of the peninsular Malay states did so by adjusting to political change, whereas the Sultan of Brunei flourished by preventing it.
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McGOWAN, ABIGAIL. "Khadi Curtains and Swadeshi Bed Covers: Textiles and the changing possibilities of home in western India, 1900–1960." Modern Asian Studies 50, no. 2 (October 26, 2015): 518–63. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0026749x14000705.

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AbstractIn examining the remarkable expansion of India's textile production in the late colonial period, many scholars have identified consumption trends as shaping the relative success of mills as opposed to handlooms. That scholarship, however, has focused on only one component of consumption: clothing. This article explores another important area of cloth consumption in western India: non-clothing textiles. Across classes, urban dwellers used curtains and furnishing fabrics to try to improve comfort and create privacy—two qualities in short supply in cities like Bombay and Ahmedabad, where the pressures of rapidly growing populations came into conflict with new sanitary demands to open up houses to light and air. More broadly, non-clothing textiles helped to negotiate the novel conditions of urban life, where people moved regularly, homes were increasingly open to non-kin visitors, men and women shared space in new ways, and elite women were aesthetic arbiters of domestic space. While clothing choices in the late colonial period have often been studied in the context of nationalism, this article argues that nationalism was only one factor among many that shaped the use of household furnishing fabrics; equally, or more importantly, new ideas of ‘home’ led to and were expressed in expanded fabric use in urban western India.
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Chrisman-Campbell, Kimberly. "Patriots against fashion. Clothing and nationalism in Europe’s age of revolutions." National Identities 21, no. 3 (September 20, 2018): 323–25. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/14608944.2018.1504464.

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Yeh, Emily T. "Blazing Pelts and Burning Passions: Nationalism, Cultural Politics, and Spectacular Decommodification in Tibet." Journal of Asian Studies 72, no. 2 (May 2013): 319–44. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0021911812002227.

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A few months after the fourteenth Dalai Lama stated at the Kalachakra Initiation Ceremony in India in January 2006 that Tibetans should cease wearing clothing lined with endangered animal skins, Tibetans across the Tibetan Plateau destroyed millions of yuan worth of otter, leopard, tiger, and other pelts. Outsiders' interpretations of these events have flattened out the complexity of participants' motivations, which included not only religious and national loyalty, but also concerns about inequality wrought by capitalist development, framed through a lens of modern Chinese history. This paper traces heated debates among Tibetans about the burnings, including their implications for Tibetans' global reputation, the survival of Tibetan culture, and the possibility of a moral economy in an era of deepening commodification. It also explores the embodied, visual, and performative elements of the burnings through participants' videos. The role of local filmmaking efforts in spreading the burnings makes the accompanying videos especially relevant.
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Ghofur, Abdul. "SONGKOK CELLENG." Dakwatuna: Jurnal Dakwah dan Komunikasi Islam 6, no. 01 (February 22, 2020): 35. http://dx.doi.org/10.36835/dakwatuna.v6i01.503.

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Songkok Celleng is the mention of headgear for men in terms of the Maduresecommunity or often referred to as a cap and kopyah. The head covering or known asSongkok Celleng is a complementary part in dressing for the santri (student in IslamicBoarding School), traditional clothing in the community to clothing for bureaucratswho have an implicit significance in its use. In this scientific work, the writer uses asemiotic qualitative method according to Charles Sanders Pierce who specificallydescribes that the sign is able to represent something else. In addition, Pierce alsodefines the sign as something that can not be separated from the object of referenceand understanding of the subject of signs with trichotomy: representamen,interpretants and objects. From the research conducted, the conclusions that can beshown by the author are: (1) Songkok celleng (representamen) is a santri identitycontaining philosophical meaning of obedience or submission (interpretant) in theform of a head covering (object). (2) Songkok celleng is always present with the spiritof nationalism introduced by the First President of Indonesia (Sukarno) that SongkokCelleng is a national identity also strengthened by government regulations issuedduring the Soekarno administration.
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Chaniago, Efriyeni, Tjetjep Rohendi Rohidi, and Triyanto Triyanto. "The Aesthetic Usage Response of Baju Kurung in Palembang City Government Tourism Office in Emphasizing Regional Identity." Catharsis 9, no. 1 (May 31, 2020): 38–49. http://dx.doi.org/10.15294/catharsis.v9i1.39732.

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BajuKurung is a traditional dress of the Malay community in several countries namely Malaysia, Indonesia, Brunei Darussalam, and southern Thailand. The traditional clothes worn by Palembang women including in the form of bajukurung. In the development era of bajukurung replaced by modern clothes. The modification of bajukurung is now made according to the tastes of customers with a variety of shapes and accessories. This study aims to analyze the aesthetic response to the rules of wearing Palembang's traditional clothing in service in the form of patterns, motifs, textures, and colors of clothes worn by employees. Through this interdisciplinary approach by using qualitative method. The data is presented in the descriptive form. The object of study was the employee's bajukurung in Palembang Government Tourism office. The research data sources are primary and secondary data. The data collection techniques are conducted by observation, interview, and document study. The analysis procedure is conducted by data reduction, data presentation, and data verification. The analysis was conducted with the aesthetic formalism theory, the validity of the data by triangulation of data sources. The results showed that the aesthetic response of the employees was expressed through patterns, motifs, colors, and textures of the bajukurung material that were modified with the addition of beads, sequins, and ribbons. The aesthetic response of the user to the style modification of the kurung displays the beauty of clothes but does not eliminate the original form. Modifications to the clothes do not interferethe activities of the employees while working.
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Dissertations / Theses on the topic "Nationalism and clothing – Brunei"

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Haji, Wahsalfelah Siti Norkhalbi. "Traditional woven textiles : tradition and identity construction in the 'new state' of Brunei Darussalam." University of Western Australia. Anthropology and Sociology Discipline Group, 2006. http://theses.library.uwa.edu.au/adt-WU2006.0013.

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Since its independence in 1984, politicians and nationalists in Brunei Darussalam have appealed to traditions in their efforts to create a national identity based on Brunei Darussalam’s national philosophy, `Malay Islamic Monarchy’. Weaving is one of the traditions related to Brunei traditional culture, thus traditional textile is used to construct national identity. This study focuses on the role played by powerful institutions in the creation of new tradition in order to foster national awareness in the `new state’ of Brunei Darussalam and I examine how traditional textiles are incorporated into the project of nation building. In Bruneian society, traditional woven cloths have multiple roles whose meanings vary according to the situation in which the traditional cloth is utilized. This research explores the significance of traditional textiles in Brunei Darussalam, focusing on the consumption of locally woven textiles in its traditions and the relationships to the expression and construction of identity. Since Islam came to Brunei Darussalam, it has become one of the predominant markers of identity of the Malays. This study analyse the influence of Islam in the production and consumption of traditional textile in Brunei Darussalam. The continuity of the production and consumption of traditional woven textile in Brunei Darussalam is very much dependent on its significant in the traditions of Brunei society as a whole. In order to prove this, this study focuses its investigation upon the production and uses of traditional textiles in the social customs of Malay society in Brunei Darussalam. Traditional woven textiles are employed to construct social identity in the reproduction of distinction. Traditional textiles are also offered to signify privilege and power. I examine how traditional textile is being used to distinguish social status and political prominence, denote offices, and display wealth and prestige.
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Orimolade, Adefolake Odunayo. "Aso Ebi : impact of the social uniform in Nigerian caucuses, Yoruba culture and contemporary trends." Diss., 2014. http://hdl.handle.net/10500/18845.

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This study is a critique of Aso Ebi in Owambe social uniform and social performance phenomena of the Yoruba culture of Nigeria in West Africa. The Aso Ebi phenomenon is a social uniform that is inextricable from the Owambe spectacle of the Yoruba culture, which, in itself, is a social performance. Aso Ebi is a fabric that is selected, made into garments and worn by groups of people who are related to one another in various ways such as family, friends or comrades. The uniforms are worn for social gatherings, especially celebrations, which are popularly called Owambe. These celebrations are very elaborate and loud, much like a grand spectacle put on to show wealth, unity and flamboyance. The research is the explanation of how the Aso Ebi and Owambe social uniforms manifest themselves and this manifestation is presented through a body of artworks. The artworks seek to expose the unseen actualities involved in participating in these social performances and issues of social survival within these cultural phenomena. The analysis addresses the impacts and influence of conformity in cooperative behaviour by an individual within his/her social identity and relationships. The main question this study addresses is whether the positive factors of unity, social order and expressive visual flamboyance of the social phenomena outweigh the negative impacts particularly on the individuals who participate in these social performances. This is done by acknowledging the experiences of the participating individuals in the conformity and transmission modes of these phenomena in this culture. The visual productions of the concepts in the research are achieved through performance, collages, photography and a sculptural installation. The significance of these emergent visual productions is that they shift the focus from the impression of the group to the conformity by the individual. This highlights the problems faced by the participating individuals in the pursuit and participation of this cultural phenomenon.
Department of Art History, Visual Arts & Musicology
M.A. (Visual Arts)
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Books on the topic "Nationalism and clothing – Brunei"

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Pertumbuhan nasionalisme di Brunei, 1939-1962. 2nd ed. [Kampong Beribi], Negara Brunei Darussalam: Asia Printers, 2004.

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Ahmad, Zaini Haji. Pertumbuhan nasionalisme di Brunei (1939-1962). Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: ZR Publications, 1989.

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Hassan, Mohd Amin, ed. Brunei Darussalam, the road to independence. Bandar Seri Begawan: Brunei History Centre, Ministry of Culture, Youth, and Sports, 1998.

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Al-Sufri, Mohd Jamil. Liku-liku perjuangan pencapaian kemerdekaan Negara Brunei Darussalam. Bandar Seri Begawan, Negara Brunei Darussalam: Jabatan Pusat Sejarah, Kementerian Kebudayaan Belia Dan Sukan, 1992.

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Íslands, Þjóðminjasafn, ed. Til gagns og til fegurðar: Sjálfsmyndir í ljósmyndum og klæðnaði á Íslandi 1860-1960. Reykjavík: Þjóðminjasafn Íslands, 2008.

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Clothing Gandhi's nation: Homespun and modern India. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2007.

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Guenther, Irene. Nazi chic?: Fashioning women in the Third Reich. Oxford: Berg, 2004.

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Clothing for liberation: A communication analysis of Gandhi's swadeshi revolution. New Delhi: SAGE Publications, 2010.

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Kramʻʺ, Pu Chuiʺ. Paṅʻ nī khyo nhaṅʻʹ Yo luṃ khyaññʻ. Maṅgalā toṅʻ ññvanʻʹ, Ranʻ kunʻ: Rai ʾOṅʻ cā pe, 2006.

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Gāndhī Sevā Saṅgha (Sevāgrām, India), ed. Khādī: Eka aitihāsika samagra-dr̥sht̄i. Sevāgrāma, Vardhā: Gāndhī Sevā Saṅgha, 2010.

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Book chapters on the topic "Nationalism and clothing – Brunei"

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Maxwell, Alexander. "Introduction: Clothing and Nationalism Studies." In Patriots Against Fashion, 1–8. London: Palgrave Macmillan UK, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1057/9781137277145_1.

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Velikonja, Mitja. "“Yugo-vintage?”—Preserving and Creating Memory Through Clothing." In Titoism, Self-Determination, Nationalism, Cultural Memory, 193–213. New York: Palgrave Macmillan US, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.1057/978-1-137-59747-2_7.

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Eickenboom, Christine. "Alexander Maxwell. Patriots Against Fashion. Clothing and Nationalism in Europe’s Age of Revolutions." In Topos Österreich | Topos Austria, 203–5. Rombach Wissenschaft, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.5771/9783968216492-203.

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Carrico, Kevin. "Introduction." In Great Han. University of California Press, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1525/california/9780520295490.003.0001.

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This introduction unfolds each of the keywords in the title The Great Han: Race, Nationalism, and Tradition in China Today through dialogue with a Han Clothing Movement participant. The conflicted nature of nationalism, caught between the ideal of China and the reality of China, is introduced through the movement’s construction of an imagined “real China.” The contentious issues of race and racism in contemporary China are introduced through a participant’s commentaries on Africans and Tibetans. And the idea of tradition, central to the Han Clothing Movement and broader trends in Chinese society, is introduced as an imaginaryinversion of the disillusioning present. Drawing upon these dialogues with a movement participant, this introduction furthermore articulates the concept of critical anthropology, seeking to understand movement participants’ desires while refusing to endorse the outcomes of these desires. Finally, this introduction provides a general overview of the book’s theoretical framework combining Lacan’s analysis of the imaginary and subjectivity with Luhmann’s analysis of social systems and Sloterdijk’s framework of immunizing spheres.
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Baker, Catherine. "The Defender Collection: Militarisation, Historical Mythology and the Everyday Affective Politics of Nationalist Fashion in Croatia." In Making War on Bodies, 189–212. Edinburgh University Press, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9781474446181.003.0009.

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This chapter explores civilian fashion’s fascination with military aesthetics, and the affective politics of militarisation and ethnonationalism in Croatia a generation since the country’s war of independence from Yugoslavia, through the case of clothing marketed to young people who sympathise with oppositional right-wing and anti-Communist nationalism. The national, ideological and subcultural identifications that this collection of clothing invites customers to make includes but is not limited to identifications with the recent and more distant national military past. An aesthetic approach to how political and historical mythology is visualised in this collection reveal how it constructs a certain contentious ideal of national military masculinity as normal and natural, and how broader processes of societal militarisation in Croatia have laid the foundations for this to be meaningful.
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Opati, Thaisaiyi Zephania. "USA Economic Nationalism and the Second-Hand Clothes Industry in Sub-Saharan Africa." In Advances in Finance, Accounting, and Economics, 182–200. IGI Global, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.4018/978-1-5225-7561-0.ch010.

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This chapter examines the effects of USA economic nationalism in the second-hand clothing (SHC) industry within Sub-Sahara Africa (SSA). The SHC industry creates an estimated 355,000 jobs in the EAC, which predictably generates incomes of US$230 million that supports an estimated 1.4 million people. The chapter looks at attempts by Kenya, Ghana, Nigeria, Zambia, and Rwanda, among other Sub-Saharan to curtail SHC to protect their infant or struggling textile industry through subtle economic nationalism policies. It then examines the repercussions of having Rwanda implementing the ban from US market. The study inspects why the Trump-led administration feels that the SHC industry is important to the US. Undeniably, the chapter will put forward a case for banning of SHC and why it is gaining notoriety in the Sub-Saharan Africa region. The chapter finally advises what managers ought to do in the wake of economic nationalism and American only policy in Africa.
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Barbour, Chad A. "“White Blood Turns Red”." In From Daniel Boone to Captain America. University Press of Mississippi, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.14325/mississippi/9781496806840.003.0005.

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Chapter four engages more directly with playing Indian in comic books, examining a host of titles in the 1940s and 1950s and afterwards that feature a white hero adopted by Indians or appropriating Indian ways. This depiction implements specific recurring characteristics: adoption by Indians, the white hero with Indian clothing or weapons, Indianness as strength and valor, the Indianized hero as upholder of justice on the frontier, and, in some cases, echoes of superhero conventions in a secret identity or sidekick. These stories not only engage in the frontier lineage discussed in previous chapters but also potentially reveal cultural values of the United States in the post-war years, especially concerning the construction and performance of gender, representations of nationalism and loyalty, and the construction of race and difference.
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Carrico, Kevin. "Imaginary Communities." In Great Han. University of California Press, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1525/california/9780520295490.003.0002.

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“Imaginary Communities” examines the concept of the nation within Han Clothing Movement discourses to develop a new theory of nationalism. The analyses are based in the question: if nations are imagined communities, how exactly are they imagined? Beginning from a dialogue with a movement enthusiast in Shenzhen, in which he presents the unexpected proposition that “today’s China is not the real China,” this chapter combines Anderson’s materialist approach with Smith’s ethnosymbolic approach to the nation to reinterpret imagined communities, structured around mundane, repetitive rituals and homogenous, empty time, as imaginary communities, structured around larger than life fantasies which illusorily incorporate individuals through the narrative of national identity. This concept of imaginary communities is thenfounded in the distinction between the nation as an ideal, which I call the fantastic national imaginary, and the nation as reality, characterized by mundane and disappointing experience. Insofar as the solution to the failure of national identity is sought in the source of this dilemma, namely the larger than life national fantasy, the nation is analyzed herein as a self-reproducing system, perpetuated over time precisely in its failure.
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Miller-Idriss, Cynthia. "Soldier, Sailor, Rebel, Rule Breaker." In The Extreme Gone Mainstream, 162–80. Princeton University Press, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.23943/princeton/9780691196152.003.0007.

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This chapter focuses on how youth fashion and style serve as markers and expressions of belonging and resistance in ways that mutually reinforce masculinity and nationalism. The chapter shows that style is deeply personal and intentional for young people. While research on young women has long discussed issues of body image, the interview data discussed here shows that clothing choices are also embedded in body image and in conceptions of masculinity for young men. The chapter focuses in particular on two emotional articulations of masculinity that are heavily marketed through the products: the desire for male comradeship and belonging, and the urge to express resistance, frustration, and anger at mainstream society. It also shows how the products idealize male strength and physicality, drawing on muscular, tattooed Viking warriors with inflated biceps and hypermasculine models that may appeal to adolescent males who feel pressured to conform to scripted ideals about appropriate masculine behavior and physique. Hypermasculine symbols like Viking gods thus become intertwined with youth fantasies of a romantic, pure, and untroubled past in ways that may help them navigate the transition to adult life and uncertain labor markets.
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Miller-Idriss, Cynthia. "Conclusion." In The Extreme Gone Mainstream, 181–94. Princeton University Press, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.23943/princeton/9780691196152.003.0008.

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This concluding chapter teases out two sets of implications illuminated in the book: one for our understanding of culture and one for our understanding of nationalism and extremism. Both implications rest on the evidence presented in the previous chapters of how the use of coded symbols can serve as a mechanism both of belonging and of resistance, helping youth feel connected to other insiders in the far right scene while simultaneously expressing resistance against mainstream society. The chapter argues that this “push and pull” of belonging and resistance ought to expand our understanding of gateways to radicalization and violence by showing how commercialized extremist products—and other “lifestyle elements” like tattoos or far right wing music—help strengthen racist, nationalist, and ideological identification and act as conduits of resistance to mainstream society. In the German case, the commercialized, coded references and symbols—many of which use humor or aggressive coded references to historical atrocities against Jews, Muslims, and others deemed not to belong—desensitize and socialize consumers and their peers and dehumanize victims. Disaffected and disenfranchised youth who enter extremist and radical scenes through their consumption of subcultural elements like tattoos, clothing, styles, or music may become gradually more involved with extremist ideologies. Far from being mere “subcultural style,” commercialized extremist products can be a gateway to extremist scenes, radicalization, and violence. Style and aesthetic representation thus need to be considered more seriously for their potential role in radicalization.
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