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1

Garcez, Faria Antonio Fernando. "Nearshore currents over a barred beach." Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 1997. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA333400.

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Dissertation (Ph.D. in Physical Oceanography) Naval Postgraduate School, June 1997.<br>Dissertation supervisor, Edward B. Thornton. Includes bibliographical references (p. 149-152). Also available online.
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2

Faria, Garcez, and Antonio Fernando. "Nearshore currents over a barred beach." Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1997. http://hdl.handle.net/10945/8729.

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Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.<br>The objective of this dissertation is to develop numerical models and compare their predictions with data acquired during the DUCK94 experiment in order to improve our physical understanding of the hydrodynamic processes governing the vertical and cross shore distributions of both longshore and cross shore currents over a barred beach. The vertical structure of the mean longshore current is found to be well described by a logarithmic profile and a relationship between bed shear stress and bottom roughness, including the influence of ri
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3

Cushanick, Matthew Stephan. "Analysis of nearshore currents near a submarine canyon." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2005. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion/05Jun%5FCushanick.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Applied Science (Physical Oceanography))--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2005.<br>Thesis Advisor(s): Thomas H.C. Herbers. Includes bibliographical references (p. 45). Also available online.
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4

Johnson, David. "The spatial and temporal variability of nearshore currents." University of Western Australia. Centre for Water Research, 2004. http://theses.library.uwa.edu.au/adt-WU2004.0067.

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The nearshore current field, defined here as the residual horizontal flow after averaging over the incident wave period, exhibits variability at a range of time and space scales. Some of the variable currents are low frequency gravity wave motions. However, variable, rotational (in the sense of possessing vertical vorticity) flow can also exist as part of the overall nearshore current field. A field and numerical modelling investigation of these variable rotational currents has been carried out. Drifters, which were developed for surfzone use, enabled measurement of the nearshore current stru
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5

Minetree, Courtney M. "Rip channel migration in the nearshore." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2006. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion/06Sep%5FMinetree.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, September 2006.<br>Thesis Advisor(s): Edward Thornton. "September 2006." Includes bibliographical references (p. 39-40). Also available in print.
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6

Abolfathi, Soroush. "Nearshore mixing due to the effects of waves and currents." Thesis, University of Warwick, 2016. http://wrap.warwick.ac.uk/94785/.

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Analytical, experimental and computational studies were carried out to investigate the mixing and dispersion of neutrally buoyant tracer in the nearshore region due to the effects of waves and currents. The main objective of this study was to quantify the mixing processes in the nearshore region. Theoretical approaches were developed to quantify the contribution of diffusive and dispersive mixing in the nearshore due to wave activity. An analytical model was developed to quantify the diffusive and dispersive mixing mechanisms based on mathematical solutions for the advection-diffusion equation
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7

Osaisai, Evans F. "The interaction between waves and currents in the nearshore zone." Thesis, Loughborough University, 2008. https://dspace.lboro.ac.uk/2134/32434.

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The interaction of waves and currents in the near-shore zone is an area of continuing research where interest derives in particular as a result of various environmental effects from natural phenomena such as storm surges and tsunamis. On time scales longer than that of an individual wave it is necessary to properly evaluate the interaction between waves and currents, using a consistent formulation of mass, momentum and energy within the water column. We describe the formulation of equations describing the mean current flow, driven by the radiation stress field of the waves, an equation for the
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8

Wang, Baoxing. "Nonlinear interactions of waves and currents with structures in nearshore environments." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/860.

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In this thesis, nonlinear interactions of waves and currents with structures in nearshore environments are investigated. The emphasis of the research is to model the encountered multiple scales of hydrodynamics (e. g. monochromatic waves and three-dimensional currents) in a numerically efficient and accurate way on a beach and around a structure in the shallow coastal region. The radiation stress and mass flux have been analytically derived by inclusion of higher-order surface elevations. The Boussinesq-type model COULWAVE is used to assess the fully nonlinear wave transformation on a beach. T
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9

Brothers, Laura Lee. "Nearshore Sediimentary Pathways and Their Social Implications, Saco Bay, Maine." Fogler Library, University of Maine, 2006. http://www.library.umaine.edu/theses/pdf/brothersll2006.pdf.

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10

Shalam, Moinuddin Khaja. "Parallelization of a quasi-3D nearshore circulation model." Master's thesis, Mississippi State : Mississippi State University, 2004. http://library.msstate.edu/etd/show.asp?etd=etd-07092004-121009.

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11

Burnette, Carolina. "Analysis of a Long-Term Record of Nearshore Currents and Implications in Littoral Transport Processes." UNF Digital Commons, 2016. http://digitalcommons.unf.edu/etd/647.

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A seasonal and long-term analysis of the vertical structure of currents in the nearshore is conducted to determine the role of the wind in driving currents and consequently affecting littoral transport processes. Approximately ten years (January, 2002 – October, 2011) of nearshore current profiles are examined using the data collected with an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) installed off of Spessard Holland North Beach Park located in Melbourne Beach, Florida. Additionally, wind data collected with a directional anemometer from September, 2002, until October, 2008, are used to further
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12

Holt, Robert D. "Rip current spacing in relation to wave energetics and directional spreading." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2003. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion-image/03Jun%5FHolt.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2003.<br>Thesis advisor(s): Edward B. Thornton, Timothy Stanton. Includes bibliographical references (p. 59-62). Also available online.
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13

Smallegan, Stephanie M. "Longshore currents near Cape Hatteras, NC." Thesis, Georgia Institute of Technology, 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/43719.

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As part of a beach erosion field experiment conducted at Cape Hatteras, NC in February 2010, this study focuses on quantifying longshore currents, which are the basic mechanism that drives longshore sediment transport. Using video imagery, the longshore currents in view of a video camera are estimated with the Optical Current Meter technique and the nearshore morphology is estimated by analyzing breaking wave patterns in standard deviation images. During a Nor‟easter storm event on February 12 and 13, 2010, the video longshore currents are compared to in situ data and it is found that the curr
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14

McCulloch, Anita. "Nearshore topographic fronts : their effect on larval settlement and dispersal at Sunset Bay, Oregon." Thesis, Thesis (M.S.)--University of Oregon, 2001, 2001. http://hdl.handle.net/1794/10077.

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15

Leatherman, Stephen B. "Rip Current Generation, Flow Characteristics and Implications for Beach Safety in South Florida." FIU Digital Commons, 2018. https://digitalcommons.fiu.edu/etd/3884.

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Rip currents are the most dangerous hazard at surf beaches. Rip currents in South Florida have previously not been studied. Beach profiles for three Florida beaches (Miami Beach, Lido Beach, Sarasota, and Pensacola Beach) and one Georgia beach (South Cumberland Island) were chosen for surveying because of their variable sand bar heights. Rip current hazard at each beach was assessed by lifeguard rip rescue and drowning statistics. A relationship was found between sand bar height, beach slope and rip current hazard. Rip current measurements in South Florida, which involved utilizing GPS drifter
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16

Cambazoglu, Mustafa Kemal. "Numerical modeling of cross-shore sediment transport and sandbar migration." Diss., Atlanta, Ga. : Georgia Institute of Technology, 2009. http://hdl.handle.net/1853/31744.

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Thesis (Ph.D)--Civil and Environmental Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 2010.<br>Committee Chair: Kevin A. Haas; Committee Member: Emanuele Di Lorenzo; Committee Member: Hermann M. Fritz; Committee Member: Paul A. Work; Committee Member: Terry W. Sturm. Part of the SMARTech Electronic Thesis and Dissertation Collection.
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17

Pattrick, Paula. "Larval fish dynamics in the shallow nearshore of Eastern Algoa Bay with particular emphasis on the effects of currents and swimming abilities on dispersal." Thesis, Rhodes University, 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/10962/d1005139.

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The larval fish assemblage in the shallow, nearshore region of a proposed marine protected area (MPA) in eastern Algoa Bay, temperate South Africa was investigated. Current velocities and direction and the swimming abilities of late-stage larvae were further assessed to determine potential larval movement to and from the MPA. In total, 6045 larval fishes were collected along two depth contours (~5m and ~15m) in the shallow nearshore of eastern Algoa Bay using stepped-oblique bongo net tows, twice per season for two years (March 2005 – January 2007). These larvae represented 32 families and 78
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18

Ward, Nikole S. "Investigation of Near-Bottom Current Characteristics Along an Open-Ocean Coast." UNF Digital Commons, 2018. https://digitalcommons.unf.edu/etd/827.

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Near-bottom current data was collected over a period of 8 years at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility in Duck, North Carolina. This data set consisted of currents measured up to three elevations above the bottom at deployment depths of 5 meters, 8 meters and 13 meters, as well as continuous real-time wind and wave data collected at the pier. The data was collated, quality checked and analyzed to define a climatology of near bottom currents along the study area using current moments. This data set had previously never been available for analysis due to the large amount of
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19

Johnson, Charley R. "Migration of Dredged Material Mounds: Predictions Based on Field Measurements of Waves, Currents, and Suspended Sediments, Brunswick, GA." Thesis, Available online, Georgia Institute of Technology, 2005, 2005. http://etd.gatech.edu/theses/available/etd-04082005-145658/unrestricted/johnson%5Fcharley%5Fr%5F200505%5Fmast.pdf.

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Thesis (M. S.)--Civil and Environmental Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 2005.<br>F. Michael Saunders, Ph.D., Committee Member ; Kevin Haas, Ph.D., Committee Member ; Paul A. Work, Ph.D., Committee Chair. Includes bibliographical references.
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20

Morris, Bruce J. "Nearshore wave and current dynamics." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2001. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA397549.

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Dissertation (Ph.D. in Physical Oceanography) Naval Postgraduate School, Sept. 2001.<br>Dissertation supervisor: Thornton, Edward B. "September 2001." Includes bibliographical references (p. 85-87). Also available online.
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21

Nizam. "Numerical modelling of three-dimensional wave induced nearshore current." Thesis, Imperial College London, 1992. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.285609.

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22

Park, Koo-Yong. "Quadtree grid numerical model of nearshore wave-current interaction." Thesis, University of Oxford, 1999. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.301255.

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23

Viljoen, Anél. "Investigation of the nearshore, episodic poleward current in the southern Benguela : a numerical modelling approach." Master's thesis, University of Cape Town, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/11427/6448.

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Includes bibliographical references.<br>Fisheries are of great economic importance on the South African West Coast (the Southern Benguela). The St Helena Bay region is a key nursery habitat for these fisheries because of its retention, upwelling and stratified water column characteristics. However, these characteristics also result in other outcomes such as hypoxia and harmful algal blooms (HAB's) which impact on the habitat suitability character of the system. A nearshore, episodic poleward current has been observed in this region, and it is believed that this current plays an important role
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24

田中, 和広. "高潮・3次元海浜流および漂砂の解析モデルの構築と実用化に関する研究". Doctoral thesis, Kyoto University, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/2433/263610.

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25

Navera, Umme Kulsum. "Development of a model for predicting wave-current interactions and sediment transport processes in nearshore coastal waters." Thesis, Cardiff University, 2004. http://orca.cf.ac.uk/55916/.

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A two-dimensional numerical model has been developed to simulate wave-current induced nearshore circulation patterns in beaches and surf zones. The wave model is based on the parabolic wave equation for mild slope beaches. The parabolic equation method has been chosen because it is a viable means of predicting the characteristics of surface waves in slowly varying domains and in its present form dissipation and wave breaking are also included. The two dimensional parabolic mild slope equation was discretised and solved in a fully implicit manner, so stability did not create a major problem. Th
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26

Delpey, Matthias. "Étude de la dispersion horizontale en zone littorale sous l'effet de la circulation tridimensionnelle forcée par les vagues : application à la baie de Saint Jean de Luz - Ciboure et au littoral de Guéthary-Bidart." Thesis, Brest, 2012. http://www.theses.fr/2012BRES0081.

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Ce travail de thèse apporte des éléments en vue d’une meilleure compréhension de la circulation et des processus de dispersion associés aux vagues à proximité des plages. Un outil de modélisation numérique opérationnelle a été développé, fondé sur le modèle spectral d’état de mer WAVEWATCH III R et le modèle hydrodynamique 3-D MOHID Water. Le code MOHID a été étendu à l’approche glm2z pour la représentation des interactions 3-D vagues-courant. Les développements théoriques permettant l’obtention des équations glm2z sont rassemblés et détaillés dans ce travail. L’implémentation de ces équations
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27

Michaud, Héloïse. "Impacts des vagues sur les courants marins : Modélisation multi-échelle de la plage au plateau continental." Phd thesis, Université Montpellier II - Sciences et Techniques du Languedoc, 2011. http://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405.

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Le littoral sableux du Languedoc-Roussillon est un système vulnérable aux risques d'érosion et de submersion. Ces aléas sont liés à la conjonction des facteurs naturels que sont les vagues, vent, élévation du niveau de la mer et apports sédimentaires et sont donc aggravés en période de tempête. En vue d'une gestion des risques, une meilleure connaissance des phénomènes hydrodynamiques de l'échelle littorale à l'échelle côtière est essentielle. Ce travail a conduit à la réalisation d'une plateforme de modélisation numérique composée du modèle de circulation océanique 3D Symphonie, traditionnell
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28

Faria, Antonio Fernando Garcez. "Nearshore currents over a barred beach." 1997. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/api/volumes/oclc/38308555.html.

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29

Lin, Po-Chien, and 林伯謙. "Seasonal variation of nearshore currents along Taoyuan coast." Thesis, 2018. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/u9zq4p.

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碩士<br>國立中央大學<br>水文與海洋科學研究所<br>106<br>This study aims to investigate the seasonal variation of the nearshore currents in the coastal zone of Gunging, Taoyuan city. It has the largest and most complete algal reef along Taoyuan coastal in Taiwan. And the sediment transport is affected by the nearshore current. Then the nearshore current research is most important. In order to understand the seasonal variation of nearshore current, we deployed the Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) in the experimental area once a season, and observed the variation of the current and wave for at least two we
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30

Perkovic, Dragana. "Radar remote sensing of currents and waves in the nearshore zone." 2008. https://scholarworks.umass.edu/dissertations/AAI3322189.

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The relationship between microwave radar and optical video imaging of the nearshore region is studied. The remotely sensed data were used to estimate the longshore currents and the surf zone width. Doppler radar relies on small scale surface roughness that scatters the incident electromagnetic radiation so that velocities are obtained from the Doppler shift of the backscattered radiation. Video relies on texture and contrast of scattered sunlight from the sea surface, and velocity estimates are determined using Particle Imaging Velocimetry (PIV). This study compares video PIV-derived and Doppl
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31

(11799693), Paul Boswood. "The evaluation of near-shore current components on macro-tidal beaches: Field analysis and numerical approach." Thesis, 1994. https://figshare.com/articles/thesis/The_evaluation_of_near-shore_current_components_on_macro-tidal_beaches_Field_analysis_and_numerical_approach/17132330.

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<div>With increasing population growths on the Coastal fringes, it is becoming more important to be able to successfully model the coastal processes. To monitor the erosion of the beach profile requires information about the nearshore currents for sediment transport calculations. However, due to the large tidal ranges of macro -tidal beaches, the current will be a complex combination of both wave -induced and tidal current components, with the total current varying with time and distance along the intertidal zone.</div><div><br></div><div>In this thesis, FORTRAN programs for the numerical mode
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32

Chang, Lin-Ming, and 張林民. "The Study of Nearshore Current Measuring System." Thesis, 2002. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/70541795328604304061.

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33

Liew, Khai-Jing, and 廖凱芹. "Numerical simulation of nearshore current along Taoyuan coast." Thesis, 2018. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/e4c2b9.

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碩士<br>國立中央大學<br>水文與海洋科學研究所<br>106<br>Nearshore currents are important for material dispersion and sediment transport, yet, not well understood in Taiwan Strait where complicated forcing mechanisms such as influence from topography, tide, wind, waves, and large-scale current exist. This study was conducted along Taoyuan coast using both numerical model (Delft3d) and observational data. Three Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCPs) were deployed near-coast from June-July to investigate spatial variations of the current pattern. The model current was performed under different forcing condition
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34

Song, Jian Yi, and 宋建毅. "Investigation of the Relationship between Nearshore Current and Wind." Thesis, 2007. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/59727499491233015189.

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碩士<br>國立臺灣海洋大學<br>河海工程學系<br>95<br>By overviewing the shortage of nature resources in Taiwan islandwide; or in the other word, by the development of national economic issue the usage and programe of coastal area with coastal secure in order to avoid environment events invaded by the nearshore exploit background survey is necessary to be master planned on the local area, which further includes tides, waves, current and wind. Therefore, in order to look forward for the current issue of time and space distribution is by the use of DGPS (Difference Global Position System) drifter buoys and mooring
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35

Jian-HungTsai and 蔡建宏. "Pixel Time Series Analysis of Nearshore Wave and Current Image." Thesis, 2011. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/16395753077960647143.

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36

Barrett, Gemma Elizabeth. "Variations in Nearshore Bar Morphology: Implications for Rip Current Development at Pensacola Beach, Florida from 1951 to 2004." Thesis, 2011. http://hdl.handle.net/1969.1/ETD-TAMU-2011-08-10038.

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In 2002, Pensacola Beach was identified by the United States Lifesaving Association as being the most hazardous beach in the continental United States for beach drowning by rip currents. Recent studies suggest that the rip currents at Pensacola Beach are associated with a transverse bar and rip morphology that develops with the migration of the bars and recovery of the beachface following an extreme storm. Combined with an alongshore variation in wave forcing by transverse ridges on the inner-shelf, the bar cycle (of bar response and recovery to extreme storms) is hypothesized to create both r
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37

Chi-RueiLee and 李啓瑞. "Study of the characteristics of Taiwan's nearshore current using SCHISM model." Thesis, 2017. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/rb968u.

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38

Lu, Ming-Chien, and 呂明杰. "Relative Discussion on Nearshore Current Field Survey by the Free Drift Float." Thesis, 2006. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/97056952574146599806.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班<br>94<br>With the increasing of population and the improvement of industrial and/or commercial activities, coastal zone’s usage has been put on more emphasis in Taiwan. Due to the limit territory and ocean surrounding environment, it is necessary to ensure the efficient usage of space and avoid the negative affections caused by human over-developed in coastal zone. So, nearshore current survey and marine data collections such as wind, wave, and depth were indispensable on the characters studing of coastal zone. The relative low price free drift float which is ba
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39

Por-jen, Yang, and 楊博仁. "Numerical Modelling of Topography Changes under Wave-Current Interaction in Nearshore Region." Thesis, 1994. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/26676766224504906987.

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碩士<br>國立臺灣大學<br>造船工程學系<br>82<br>The objective of this paper is to develope a numerical model for changes of sea bottom tography in nearshore region. The comb ined flow field of wave and tides will be considered, and the ef ffect of wave-current interaction are included. The numerical mo del constitutes four parts : (1) prediction model of wave field including current effects. The model is based on the time-depend ent mile-slope equations extended to a parabolic time-independen t equations,
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Truong, Melanie Khanh Phuong. "Experimental Study on Wave Transformation and Nearshore Circulation on a Variable Bathymetry in Wetlands." Thesis, 2011. http://hdl.handle.net/1969.1/ETD-TAMU-2011-08-10157.

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Hurricanes are one of the primary threats to the Texas coastal environment and economy. They generate large wave and storm surges that have caused much damage on the Texas coast in the past. Understanding both the hydrodynamic processes that damage coastal habitats and hurricane hazard and risk are critical to preserve coastal vegetation and quantify its benefits to coastal storm protection. The goal of this project is to quantify the impact of wave attenuation and wave refraction as well as the development of coherent structures in marsh fringes and the formation of a rip current system over
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41

Johnson, Angela Michelle. "An investigation of the distribution and abundance of ichthyoplankton and juvenile benthic fishes in relation to nearshore hypoxia within the Northern California Current system." Thesis, 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/1957/34734.

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Nearshore hypoxia within the Northern California Current (NCC) system is a seasonal phenomenon caused by coastal upwelling and occurs mainly during late-summer and early fall. The effects of low oxygen levels on fish and invertebrate communities, particularly during early-life history stages, however, are poorly known for this area. I investigated the effects of hypoxia on the density, community structure, vertical and horizontal distribution of fish larvae and juveniles, as well as body condition of juveniles, along the central Oregon and Washington coasts during the summers of 2008 - 2011. D
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