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Journal articles on the topic 'Nearshore currents'

Author: Grafiati

Published: 4 June 2021

Last updated: 19 February 2023

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1

Abolfathi, Soroush, and Jonathan Pearson. "APPLICATION OF SMOOTHED PARTICLE HYDRODYNAMICS (SPH) IN NEARSHORE MIXING: A COMPARISON TO LABORATORY DATA." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 16. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.currents.16.

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A weakly compressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics (WCSPH) method is used to simulate the nearshore flow hydrodynamics. The wave induced dispersion and diffusion are determined for monochromatic waves with significant wave height of 0.12 m and the wave period of 1.2 sec (Sop=5%) based on WCSPH wave dynamics. The hydrodynamics of WCSPH model are compared to the laboratory results obtained from series of LDA measurements. The overall mixing coefficients across the nearshore are determined from WCSPH hydrodynamics. The mixing coefficients obtained are compared with the values determined from a

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2

Yamaguchi, Masataka. "A NUMERICAL MODEL OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS DUE TO IRREGULAR WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (1988): 83. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.83.

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This paper presents a numerical model of nearshore currents due to irregular waves. The radiation stress is estimated by a current-depth refraction model for irregular waves, in which the energy dissipation due to wave breaking is modeled through the use of a saturated frequency spectrum in shallow water. The model is in reasonable agreement with measured wave height, mean water level variation and observed nearshore current patterns. Next, the model is applied to the computation of wave transformation and nearshore currents on a uniformly sloping beach and on model topographies with complicat

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3

Shepard, F. P., and D. L. Inman. "NEARSHORE CIRCULATION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 1 (2010): 5. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v1.5.

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Studies of nearshore circulation were initiated at Scripps Institution during World War II. A method of estimating the velocity of longshore currents from known wave conditions on straight beaches with parallel contours was devised by Munk and Traylor (1945) and later revised by Putnam, Munk and Traylor (1949). Their methods were based on energy and momentum considerations which were applied to the following two types of observations: (1) field observations of longshore currents along the straight beach at Oceanside, California made by Munk and Traylor (1945), and (2) laboratory measurements c

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4

Sato, Shinji, and Shohei Ohkuma. "FORMATION OF BREAKING BORES IN FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE DUE TO THE 2011 TOHOKU TSUNAMI." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 17. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.currents.17.

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Tsunami forces on critical coastal structures were reanalyzed by combining laboratory experiments and numerical tsunami simulation, focusing on the formation of breaking bores and their large force to structures. Laboratory experiments demonstrated that nearshore tsunami is likely to form a breaking bore when the slope of the incident tsunami front is steep and the nearshore bed slope is mild. The impulsive pressure to coastal structures was found to increase with the steepness of the tsunami front. Based on these results, together with numerical simulation of tsunami, the formation of bores w

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5

Yamaguchi, Masataka. "A NUMERICAL MODEL OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS BASED ON A FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVE THEORY." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 64. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.64.

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A numerical model of wave-Induced nearshore currents taking into account the finite amplitude effect is developed, with a cnoidal wave theory used for the estimation of wave characteristics. The model is applied to the computation of wave transformation and nearshore currents on uniformly sloping beaches and on two-dimensional model topographies. The comparison with the results obtained by a linear model shows that wave nonlinearity has a strong influence on wave transformation in shoaling water and in the surf zone and on the strength of nearshore circulation, but that it does not have much e

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6

Derakhti, Morteza, and Robert A. Dalrymple. "VORTEX FORCE ANALYSIS OF WAVE-DRIVEN NEARSHORE CIRCULATION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 61. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.61.

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In this presentation, we examine 3-D structure of nearshore circulation driven by short-crested wave breaking using the 3-D Smooth Particle Hydrodynamic model, GPUSPH (HÃ©rault et al., 2010). The alongshore variation of incident wave field has been imposed by using the method of intersecting wave trains proposed by Dalrymple (1975). We use the 3-D vortex force formalism to analyze the various forcing mechanisms of the observed circulation. Of particular interest is the relative importance of the vortex force compared with the other wave-averaged forces. The accuracy of the depth-averaged vorte

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7

YAMASHITA, Toshihiko, Yuichiro TAKAGI, and Tatsuya NAKANO. "Three Dimensional Structure of Nearshore Currents." PROCEEDINGS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING IN THE OCEAN 9 (1993): 79–82. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/prooe.9.79.

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8

Smith, Jerome A., and John L. Largier. "Observations of nearshore circulation: Rip currents." Journal of Geophysical Research 100, no. C6 (1995): 10967. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/95jc00751.

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9

De Vriend, H. J., and M. J. F. Stive. "Quasi-3D modelling of nearshore currents." Coastal Engineering 11, no. 5-6 (1987): 565–601. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(87)90027-5.

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10

Dalrymple, Robert Anthony, Alexis Herault, Giuseppe Bilotta, and Rozita Jalali Farahani. "GPU-ACCELERATED SPH MODEL FOR WATER WAVES AND FREE SURFACE FLOWS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (2011): 9. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.waves.9.

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This paper discusses the meshless numerical method Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics and its application to water waves and nearshore circulation. In particularly we focus on an implementation of the model on the graphics processing unit (GPU) of computers, which permits low-cost supercomputing capabilities for certain types of computational problems. The implementation here runs on Nvidia graphics cards, from off-the-shelf laptops to the top-of-line Tesla cards for workstations with their current 480 massively parallel streaming processors. Here we apply the model to breaking waves and nearshor

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11

Zhang, Yu, Cuiping Kuang, Lulu He, et al. "COMPARISON OF TIDAL CURRENTS UNDER DIFFERENT NOURISHMENT SCHEMES ON WEST BEACH OF BEIDAIHE, CHINA." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (2011): 32. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.32.

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This paper detailed a study on the tidal current field around a beach nourishment project including submerged breakwaters and jetties. The effect of different nearshore structure arrangements on the tidal current field was studied utilizing a numerical model build based on the solution of two-dimensional shallow water equations and an unstructured grid. In order to calibrate the numerical model, field survey was conducted at 5 current stations and a tidal level station around the project area. According to a primary analysis on stability, environment, sight of the beach, and construction quant

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12

Sriram, Venkatachalam, Ira Didenkulova, Stefan Schimmels, A. Sergeeva, and Nils Goseburg. "LONG WAVE PROPAGATION, SHOALING AND RUN-UP IN NEARSHORE AREAS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 34 (2014): 20. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v34.currents.20.

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13

Suarez, Leandro, Rodrigo Cienfuegos, Eric Barthélemy, Hervé Michallet, and Cristian Escauriaza. "LAGRANGIAN DRIFTER MODELLING OF AN EXPERIMENTAL RIP CURRENT." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 35. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.35.

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A non-uniform alongshore wave forcing on an experimental uneven mobile bathymetry create mean circulation on a rip channel. A 2D numerical hydrodynamic model that integrates the non-linear shallow-water equations in a shock-capturing finite-volume framework is used to validate the nearshore circulation, and drifters displacement.

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14

Yoo, Donghoon, and Brian A. O'Connor. "MATHEMATICAL MODELLING OF WAVE-INDUCED NEARSHORE CIRCULATIONS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 122. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.122.

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The paper presents a mathematical model for describing wave climate and wave-induced nearshore circulations. The model accounts for current-depth refraction, diffraction, wave-induced currents, set-up and set-down, mixing processes and bottom friction effects on both waves and currents. The present model was tested against published experimental data on wave conditions within a model harbour and shown to give very good results for both wave and current fields. The importance of including processes such as advection, flooding and current-interaction in coastal models was demonstrated by compari

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15

Chun, Hwusub, and Kyung-Duck Suh. "Analysis of Longshore Currents with an Eulerian Nearshore Currents Model." Journal of Coastal Research 336 (November 2017): 1352–66. http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/jcoastres-d-16-00180.1.

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16

Dingemans, M. W., M. J. F. Stive, J. Bosma, H. J. De Vriend, and J. A. Vogel. "DIRECTIONAL NEARSHORE WAVE PROPAGATION AND INDUCED CURRENTS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 81. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.81.

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Recently, a depth and current refraction model has been developed for the computation of directionally spread, random wave propagation in coastal regions (Booij et al., 1985). For the verification of the performance of this model laboratory measurements in a directional, shallow water wave basin were conducted. Specific attention was given to the verification of the new features of the numerical model, viz. the effects of directional spreading and ambient current field on the wave propagation and transformation process, and the change of characteristic spectral wave frequency due to wave dissi

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17

Nishimura, Hitoshi, Kohki Maruyama, and Tsutomu Sakurai. "On the Numerical Computation of Nearshore Currents." Coastal Engineering in Japan 28, no. 1 (1985): 137–45. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/05785634.1985.11924411.

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18

Lin, Ming‐Chung, and Jiing‐Yih Liou. "Analytical study of wave‐induced nearshore currents." Journal of the Chinese Institute of Engineers 9, no. 5 (1986): 437–49. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/02533839.1986.9676912.

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19

Henderson, Stephen M., Joshua Arnold, H. T. Özkan-Haller, and Stephen A. Solovitz. "Depth Dependence of Nearshore Currents and Eddies." Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122, no. 11 (2017): 9004–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/2016jc012349.

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20

Petitjean, Lise, Damien Sous, Vincent Rey, Frédéric Bouchette, FranÃ§ois Sabatier, and Samuel Meulé. "THE STRUCTURE OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS DRIVEN BY CHANGES IN METEO-MARINE FORCINGS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 5. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.currents.5.

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This work aims to better understand the physical processes governing the wave propagation in a vertically sheared current and the resulting nearshore circulation patterns. It is based on a high resolution hydro-morphodynamic field campaign, ROUSTY2014, collecting a comprehensive hydro-morphodynamical dataset during a full winter season. The overall analysis highlights three main circulation patterns, largely controled by the bathymetric features and by co-working or competing wind and waves forcings. Regarding the vertical structuration of the circulation, most of field observations shown seaw

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21

De Zeeuw, Roeland, Matthieu A. De Schipper, Dano Roelvink, Sierd De Vries, and Marcel J. F. Stive. "IMPACT OF NOURISHMENTS ON NEARSHORE CURRENTS AND SWIMMER SAFETY ON THE DUTCH COAST." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 57. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.57.

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Assessing swimmer safety along the Dutch coast entails more than only assessing the risk of rip currents. Seven criteria have been formulated to make a comprehensive assessment of swimmer safety along the Dutch coast. These are based on interviews with lifeguards, rescue report statistics and detailed lagrangian measurements of the current patterns and bathymetry in the shallow nearshore, at three different field sites along the South-Holland coast.

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22

Anderson, Dylan, A. Spicer Bak, Katherine L. Brodie, Nicholas Cohn, Rob A. Holman, and John Stanley. "Quantifying Optically Derived Two-Dimensional Wave-Averaged Currents in the Surf Zone." Remote Sensing 13, no. 4 (2021): 690. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/rs13040690.

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Complex two-dimensional nearshore current patterns are generated by feedbacks between sub-aqueous morphology and momentum imparted on the water column by breaking waves, winds, and tides. These non-stationary features, such as rip currents and circulation cells, respond to changing environmental conditions and underlying morphology. However, using fixed instruments to observe nearshore currents is limiting due to the high costs and logistics necessary to achieve adequate spatial sampling resolution. A new technique for processing surf-zone imagery, WAMFlow, quantifies fluid velocities to revea

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23

Kumar, V. Sanil, G. Udhaba Dora, C. Sajiv Philip, P. Pednekar, and Jai Singh. "Nearshore Currents along the Karnataka Coast, West Coast of India." International Journal of Ocean and Climate Systems 3, no. 1 (2012): 71–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.1260/1759-3131.3.1.71.

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Measured current data at 7 locations and tide data at 3 locations during the pre-summer monsoon period along the west coast of India is used in the study. The surface currents during March showed a predominant northward trend and during April it was towards south. Estimated tidal currents were upto 25 cm s−1 with an average value of 8 cm s−1. Current tidal form number varied from 0.56 to 1 at different locations indicating currents are mixed. M2 and S2 tidal current constituents rotated clock wise at all location. Near surface, the alongshore current was 2.6 to 5.9% of the alongshore wind and

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24

Reyes, Clint Chester, Eric Cruz, and Jose Carlo Eric Santos. "CASE STUDY OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS HAZARD ANALYSIS FOR RECREATIONAL BEACH DEVELOPMENT." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36v (December 31, 2020): 20. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.papers.20.

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Nearshore current generation at two coastlines contemplated for beach resort development is studied with the use of a numerical model for coexisting waves and currents. A nested-mesh technique was applied to consolidate the 2 domains of coarse and fine bathymetric data and to translate deep water wave conditions at the nearshore mesh boundary. The hydrodynamic model is validated using tide data at the nearest tide stations, while offshore wave conditions, determined from a wave hindcasting method, are inputted as quasi-stationary forcing. Simulations results of wave-current co-existing fields

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25

El Safty, Hoda, and Patrick Lynett. "SPOT APPLICATION TOOL FOR WAVE DRIVEN NEARSHORE HYDRODYNAMICS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 19. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.waves.19.

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Nearshore hydrodynamics are driven by a wide spectrum of motions/scales that vary on the order of O (10) m to O (100) km. These scales have different effects on the dynamics of the nearshore areas, and capturing these effects is essential in accurately modeling the nearshore processes such as: mixing and transport of pollutants, wave steeping and/or wave damping, erosion and deposition of sediments, and infragravity wave propagation. For example, in tidal inlets, waves interact with tidal-currents and bathymetry. The presences of waves alter the kinematics and the dynamics of the tidal-current

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26

Ostrowski, Rafał, Jan Schönhofer, Magdalena Stella, Alexey Grave, Aleksander Babakov, and Boris Chubarenko. "South Baltic rip currents detected by a field survey." Baltica 33, no. 1 (2020): 11–20. http://dx.doi.org/10.5200/baltica.2020.1.2.

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The paper presents results of experimental investigations of currents in the nearshore region of the south Baltic Sea. The analysis is based on the field data collected near Lubiatowo (Poland) using the measuring equipment which was simultaneously operated both by the Polish and Russian research teams. The venture was aimed at detection of rip currents that are rare and insufficiently explored phenomena in the south Baltic coastal zone. The data include wind velocity and direction, deep-water wave buoy records and currents surveyed by means of drifters. The measurements were carried out in the

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27

Jansen, Tommy. "Review of Tide and Wind Affect to Currents Pattern in Amurang Bay, North Sulawesi, Indonesia." Journal of Sustainable Engineering: Proceedings Series 1, no. 1 (2019): 68–74. http://dx.doi.org/10.35793/joseps.v1i1.9.

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Winds, tides and river discharges largely drive coastal currents. The strength of tidal currents, river runoff, meteorological conditions, shoreline configuration, water depth and topography are the factors that affect coastal water circulation. Generally currents are the flowing of water mass caused by wind, difference of density or tide moving. The existence of currents direction to nearshore of Amurang Bay was studied with using computer model tools as the hydrodynamic model by determine currents speed and its direction.The study took place in Amurang Bay as the province of North Sulawesi I

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28

Gallerano, Francesco, Giovanni Cannata, and Federica Palleschi. "Nonlinear waves and nearshore currents over variable bathymetry in curve-shaped coastal areas." Journal of Ocean Engineering and Marine Energy 5, no. 4 (2019): 419–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s40722-019-00153-8.

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AbstractIrregular coastlines and variable bathymetry produce nonlinear effects on wave propagation which play a significant role on the formation of nearshore currents. To protect the coastline from the erosional action of nearshore currents, it is usual to adopt coastal defence works such as submerged breakwaters. If properly designed, they give rise to circulation patterns capable to induce sedimentation of suspended material at the nearshore region. To numerically simulate the hydrodynamic effects of submerged breakwaters in irregular coastal areas, we use a numerical model which is based o

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29

Cienfuegos, Rodrigo, L. Duarte, L. Suarez, and P. A. Catalán. "NUMERICAL COMPUTATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE DYNAMICS AND VELOCITY PROFILES USING A FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ MODEL." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (2011): 48. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.48.

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We present experimental and numerical analysis of nonlinear processes responsible for generating infragravity waves in the nearshore. We provide new experimental data on random wave propagation and associated velocity profiles in the shoaling and surf zones of a very mild slope beach. We analyze low frequency wave generation mechanisms and dynamics along the beach and examine in detail the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq- type model SERR1D (Cienfuegos et al., 2010) to reproduce the complex dynamics of high frequency wave propagation and energy transfer m

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30

Rijnsdorp, Dirk Pieter, Pieter Bart Smit, and Marcel Zijlema. "NON-HYDROSTATIC MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES USING SWASH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 27. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.27.

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This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a sloping bottom. Good agreement between model predictions and data is found throughout the domain for bound infragravity waves. Furthermore the model predicts greater outgoing free infragravity wave-heights for steeper slope regimes which is consistent with

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31

Nishihata, Takeshi, Yoshimitsu Tajima, and Shinji Sato. "NUMERICAL ANALYSIS OF WAVE AND NEARSHORE CURRENT FIELDS AROUND LOW-CRESTED PERMEABLE DETACHED BREAKWATERS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 80. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.structures.80.

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A Boussinesq type numerical model was developed which can simulate both wave fields and current fields around permeable detached breakwaters. The validity of the model was verified through measurements of waves and nearshore currents in hydraulic experiments investigating reflection and transmission capability. The porosity of the structure was accounted by a friction term incorporating turbulent resistance. The combination of turbulent friction model and anisotropic diffusion type wave breaking model was found to reproduce wave fields around the detached breakwaters and nearshore current fiel

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32

Shi, Fengyan, Gangfeng Ma, James T. Kirby, and Tian-Jian Tom Hsu. "APPLICATION OF A TVD SOLVER IN A SUITE OF COASTAL ENGINEERING MODELS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 31. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.31.

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This paper describes the recent developments in a suite of coastal engineering models using Godunov-type shock-capturing schemes. The developments include a depth-integrated, wave resolving Boussinesq model, a hydrostatic, wave-averaged circulation model, and a fully 3-D non-hydrostatic model in a surface-following $\sigma$ coordinate formulation. The models implemented with the shock-capturing TVD scheme show robust performances in modeling breaking waves, nearshore circulation and coastal inundation. In this paper, we present model equations in a conservative form, MUSCLE-TVD numerical schem

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33

Rezaei Yeknami, Saeed, Mohsen Soltanpour, and Zahra Ranji. "ANALYSIS OF NEARSHORE LOCAL EFFECTS ON TIDAL BEHAVIOUR AT IMAM KHOMEINI PORT AND MUSA BAY." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 7. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.currents.7.

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Tidal waves have very different dynamics in shallow waters, in comparison to deep sea waters. When a tidal wave approaches to nearshore areas, it might be affected by different factors such as resonance, shoaling in landward direction, funneling due to the decrease of the width, damping due to bottom friction, and partial reflection at abrupt changes of the cross-sections of estuary. Coriolis force can also deflect the tidal waves in large areas, which may lead to the changes of tidal ranges near the coasts. The high increase of tidal range at Musa Bay, located at the north-western part of the

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34

Zhu, Fangfang, and Nicholas Dodd. "BEACHFACE EVOLUTION UNDER TWO SWASH EVENTS BY TWO SOLITARY WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 16. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.16.

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Swash zone morphodynamics is of great signi cance for nearshore morphological change, and it is important to provide reliable numerical prediction for beachface evolution in the swash zone. Most of the numerical work on swash zone morphodynamics carried out so far has focused primarily on beach evolution under one single swash event. In reality, multiple swash events interact, and these swash interactions have been recognised as important in the beachface evolution. Swash-swash interactions leads to energy dissipation, enhanced bed shear stresses and sediment transport (Puleo and Torres- Freye

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35

Son, Sangyoung, Tae-Hwa Jung, and Fengyan Shi. "Vertical Structure of Rip-currents in the Nearshore Circulation." Journal of Coastal Research 75, sp1 (2016): 1402–6. http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/si75-281.1.

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36

Yoo, Jeseon, and Sun-Sin Kim. "Remote Sensing of Nearshore Currents using Coastal Optical Imagery." Ocean and Polar Research 37, no. 1 (2015): 11–22. http://dx.doi.org/10.4217/opr.2015.37.1.011.

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37

Kuroiwa, Masamitsu, and Hideaki Noda. "A quasi-three dimensional numerical model of nearshore currents." Journal of the Visualization Society of Japan 19, Supplement2 (1999): 191–94. http://dx.doi.org/10.3154/jvs.19.supplement2_191.

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38

Watson, J. R., C. G. Hays, P. T. Raimondi, et al. "Currents connecting communities: nearshore community similarity and ocean circulation." Ecology 92, no. 6 (2011): 1193–200. http://dx.doi.org/10.1890/10-1436.1.

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39

Johnson, Donald R. "Nearshore surface currents in the Chesapeake Bight during summer." Continental Shelf Research 7, no. 4 (1987): 367–78. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0278-4343(87)90106-3.

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40

Chang, Yeon S., Jong Dae Do, Kyungmo Ahn, and Jae-Youll Jin. "NUMERICAL STUDY OF NEARSHORE HYDRODYNAMICS UNDER STORM WAVE CONDITIONS IN HUJEONG BEACH, EAST COAST OF KOREA." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 67. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.67.

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In this study, we present the results of numerical model study to simulate the hydrodynamic conditions observed in Hujeong Beach in the east coast of the Republic of Kore from December, 2016 to January, 2017 during which several extratropical cyclones hit the area causing extreme wave conditions. Three acoustic instrumentation systems were moored from the coast to a location outside the surf zone where the water depth was ~8m to measure waves, currents and suspended sediment concentrations. For the numerical model, we employed the CADMAS-SURF Raynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) model to gen

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41

Dudas, Sarah E., Brian A. Grantham, Anthony R. Kirincich, Bruce A. Menge, Jane Lubchenco, and John A. Barth. "Current reversals as determinants of intertidal recruitment on the central Oregon coast." ICES Journal of Marine Science 66, no. 2 (2008): 396–407. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/icesjms/fsn179.

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Abstract Dudas, S. E., Grantham, B. A., Kirincich, A. R., Menge, B. A., Lubchenco, J., and Barth, J. A. 2009. Current reversals as determinants of intertidal recruitment on the central Oregon coast. – ICES Journal of Marine Science, 66: 396–407. The influence of current reversals on intertidal invertebrate recruitment was investigated using two seasons of nearshore physical and intertidal biological observations along the central Oregon coast, an intermittent upwelling system. In 1998, upwelling periods were punctuated by infrequent wind reversals and widespread increases in nearshore temperat

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42

Feddersen, Falk, J. H. Trowbridge, and A. J. Williams. "Vertical Structure of Dissipation in the Nearshore." Journal of Physical Oceanography 37, no. 7 (2007): 1764–77. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo3098.1.

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Abstract The vertical structure of the dissipation of turbulence kinetic energy was observed in the nearshore region (3.2-m mean water depth) with a tripod of three acoustic Doppler current meters off a sandy ocean beach. Surface and bottom boundary layer dissipation scaling concepts overlap in this region. No depth-limited wave breaking occurred at the tripod, but wind-induced whitecapping wave breaking did occur. Dissipation is maximum near the surface and minimum at middepth, with a secondary maximum near the bed. The observed dissipation does not follow a surfzone scaling, nor does it foll

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Da Silva, Paula Gomes, RaÃºl Medina, Mauricio GonzÃ¡lez, and Roland Garnier. "FIELD MEASUREMENTS AND SWASH PARAMETERIZATION ON BEACHES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 23. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.23.

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The wave runup, defined as the vertical oscillation of the water edge at the coast, is commonly used as criterion for coastal design projects and flooding/erosion risk analysis. Due to the complexity of nearshore wave processes, most runup studies are based on empirical approaches which directly relate these oscillations to the beach and offshore wave characteristics. However, there is still considerable debate about just how runup is related to these environmental parameters, as well as about the range of application of empirical models due to site specific conditions. Recent works emphasized

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Lin, Lihwa, Zeki Demirbilek, Jessica Podoski, Thomas Smith, and Lihwa Lin. "COASTAL MODELING FOR REGIONAL SEDIMENT BUDGET IN WEST MAUI, HAWAII." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 14. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.sediment.14.

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The West Maui Region incorporates a thin coastal margin backed by steep mountainous terrain that has been vastly altered by agricultural and urbanized development. Coastline includes headlands and reefs with a very limited supply of sediment. Shoreline was found to be erosional chronically based on average rates. The dynamics of the area are complex with a wave climate affected by intricate bathymetry, wind, and island sheltering. Longshore currents vary locally and temporally from nearshore to offshore. Wave and current modeling indicates that large waves in the summer and winter have driven

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Tajima, Yoshimitsu, and Shinji Sato. "LOCAL CONCENTRATION OF SLOWLY VARYING WAVE AND CURRENT FIELDS AROUND THE ABRUPTLY CHANGING BOTTOM SLOPES ALONG THE SHORE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (2011): 21. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.waves.21.

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This study aims to investigate physical mechanisms of locally concentrated nearshore hydrodynamic forces under interactive fields of waves and currents on abruptly changing coastal bathymetry. Laboratory experiments were first performed to represent such phenomena and a newly developed monitoring system based on image processing techniques successfully captured the local concentrations of wave fields as quantitative high-resolution data sets. Numerical experiments were then performed to investigate the physical mechanisms of the observed features. It was found that, among the other various pos

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Dettmers, John M., John Janssen, Bernard Pientka, Richard S. Fulford, and David J. Jude. "Evidence across multiple scales for offshore transport of yellow perch (Perca flavescens) larvae in Lake Michigan." Canadian Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences 62, no. 12 (2005): 2683–93. http://dx.doi.org/10.1139/f05-173.

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Most freshwater fishes have short pelagic early life stages. Lake Michigan presents an interesting scenario for yellow perch (Perca flavescens), a species with a long pelagic larval stage that may not be well adapted to lakes with an expansive pelagic environment and extensive offshore transport. We investigated the possibility that early life stages of yellow perch were transported well offshore from their nearshore spawning grounds and explored whether food resources were more or less favorable offshore. To determine the extent to which pelagic age-0 yellow perch moved offshore, we sampled a

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Azouri, Assaf, Volker Roeber, and Douglas S. Luther. "THE RESPONSE OF HARBOR ENVIRONMENTS PROTECTED BY IRREGULAR FRINGING REEF SYSTEMS TO STRONG GRAVITY WAVE FORCING - A CASE STUDY." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 44. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.44.

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Three high-resolution, dispersive nearshore numerical models (BOSZ - Roeber & Cheung, 2012; FUNWAVE - Shi et al., 2012; XBeach - Roelvink et al., 2009) are compared and contrasted with observations from fringing- reef and harbor environments, in an attempt to test their ability to reproduce the wave transformation processes in a complex Hawaiian reef-system environment forced by highly energetic sea/swell wave conditions. Haleâ€™iwa Harbor, located on Oahuâ€™s North Shore (Figure 1), is a small boat harbor that faces serious operational problems resulting from water level fluctuations and

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Melby, Jeffrey A., Fatima Diop, Norberto Nadal-Caraballo, Alex Taflanidis, and Victor Gonzalez. "HURRICANE WATER LEVEL PREDICTION USING SURROGATE MODELING." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 57. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.57.

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For this study, the surrogate was constructed using kriging (Jia et al. 2015). The high fidelity coupled surge and wave numerical modelling for the Gulf of Mexico was used as the training set. The numerical model was either ADCIRC and STWAVE or ADCIRC and SWAN in the nearshore. The surrogate models were trained using tropical storm parameters (latitude, longitude, central pressure, radius to maximum wind speed, storm heading, and forward speed) at a specific location as inputs and individual responses (e.g. surge) as outputs. Tide was computed separately using ADCIRC and linearly superimposed

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Kim, Mujong, Hak Soo Lim, Jong-Dae Do, Sun-Sin Kim, Hee Jun Lee, and Jae-Seol Shim. "Variations of Nearshore Currents induced by Seasonal Waves in Haeundae." Journal of Coastal Research 85 (May 2018): 1551–55. http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/si85-311.1.

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YAMAGUCHI, Masataka, Kohji HOSONO, and Hiromitsu KAWAHARA. "A numerical model of nearshore currents due to irregular waves." Doboku Gakkai Ronbunshu, no. 375 (1986): 251–59. http://dx.doi.org/10.2208/jscej.1986.375_251.

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