Relevant bibliographies by topics / Nineteenth Century Clothing

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Academic literature on the topic 'Nineteenth Century Clothing'

Author: Grafiati
Published: 4 June 2021
Last updated: 6 February 2022

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Journal articles on the topic "Nineteenth Century Clothing"

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Brady, Sean. "Clothing and Poverty in Nineteenth-century England." History Workshop Journal 82, no. 1 (August 22, 2016): 268–73. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/hwj/dbw041.

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Ekici, Didem. "Skin, Clothing, and Dwelling." Journal of the Society of Architectural Historians 75, no. 3 (September 1, 2016): 281–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1525/jsah.2016.75.3.281.

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Gottfried Semper is often credited with originating the concept of the building as skin in architectural theory, but an alternative trajectory of this idea can be found in the mid-nineteenth-century science of hygiene. In Skin, Clothing, and Dwelling: Max von Pettenkofer, the Science of Hygiene, and Breathing Walls, Didem Ekici explores the affinity of skin, clothing, and dwelling in nineteenth-century German thinking, focusing on a marginal figure in architectural history, physician Max von Pettenkofer (1818–1901), the “father of experimental hygiene.” Pettenkofer's concept of clothing and dwelling as skins influenced theories of architecture that emphasized the environmental performance of the architectural envelope. This article examines Pettenkofer's writings and contemporary works on hygiene, ethnology, Kulturgeschichte (cultural history), and linguistics that linked skin, clothing, and dwelling. From nineteenth-century “breathing walls” to today's high-performance envelopes, theories of the building as a regulating membrane are a testament to the unsung legacy of Pettenkofer and the science of hygiene.
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Jones, Peter. "Clothing the Poor in Early-Nineteenth-Century England." Textile History 37, no. 1 (May 2006): 17–37. http://dx.doi.org/10.1179/004049606x94459.

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Vander biesen, Ivan. "Social and Intercultural Relations in Nineteenth-Century Zanzibar: Dressed Identity." African and Asian Studies 8, no. 3 (2009): 309–31. http://dx.doi.org/10.1163/156921009x458136.

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Abstract Starting from the nineteenth century descriptive literatures on Zanzibar by authors such as Sir Richard Burton and Charles Guillain, and Salima bint Said-Ruete's autobiography, we can draw a rather detailed picture of the relationship between the different social layers, cultures and genders on Zanzibar. Describing and differentiating the complexity of Zanzibar society in the nineteenth century is the main aim of this paper. The focus is on clothing in order to sketch the social organization of the society and to highlight the cultural relations between the different groups in Zanzibar. The evidence obtained from the description of clothing is used as an eye-opener for the Zanzibar society and this evidence is supported by nineteenth century literature and photography on Zanzibar.
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Johnston, Lucy. "Clothing in Context — Nineteenth-Century Dress and Textiles in the Thomas Hardy Archive." Costume 52, no. 2 (September 2018): 261–84. http://dx.doi.org/10.3366/cost.2018.0071.

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This article will consider how dress, textiles, manuscripts and images in the Thomas Hardy Archive illuminate his writing and reveal the accuracy of his descriptions of clothing in novels including Far from the Madding Crowd and Tess of the D'Urbervilles. Rural clothing, fashionable styles, drawings and illustrations will shed new light on his writing through providing an insight into the people's dress he described so eloquently in his writing. The textiles and clothing in the Archive are also significant as nineteenth-century working-class dress is relatively rare. Everyday rural clothing does not tend to survive, so a collection belonging to Hardy's family of country stonemasons provides new opportunities for research in this area. Even more unusual is clothing reliably provenanced to famous people or writers, and such garments that do exist tend to be from the middle or upper classes. This article will show how the combination of surviving dress, biographical context and literary framework enriches understanding of Hardy's words and informs research into nineteenth-century rural dress.
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Davidson, Hilary. "Grave Emotions: Textiles and Clothing from Nineteenth-Century London Cemeteries." TEXTILE 14, no. 2 (May 3, 2016): 226–43. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2016.1139383.

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McQuillen, Colleen. "Satires of fashionable clothing and literature in nineteenth-century Russia." Clothing Cultures 3, no. 3 (December 1, 2016): 247–63. http://dx.doi.org/10.1386/cc.3.3.247_1.

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McClelland, Maria G. "The First Hull Mercy Nuns: A Nineteenth Century Case Study." Recusant History 22, no. 2 (October 1994): 199–221. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0034193200001874.

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Preaching in Edinburgh on 8 October 1885 at the clothing ceremony of two Mercy nuns, Fr. William Humphrey SJ, the convert-chaplain of the episcopalian bishop of Brechin, used the following extract from Psalm XLIV as his theme:Hearken, O daughter and seeAnd incline thine ear,And forget thy people and thy father’s houseAnd the King shall desire thy beauty.(v. 11–12)
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Moskowitz, Marina, Philippe Perrot, and Richard Bienvenu. "Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century." Journal of Interdisciplinary History 27, no. 1 (1996): 115. http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/206489.

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Ulväng, Marie. "Clothing Economy and Clothing Culture: The Farm Wardrobe from a Gendered Perspective in Nineteenth‐Century Sweden." Gender & History 33, no. 2 (June 11, 2021): 365–89. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/1468-0424.12543.

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Dissertations / Theses on the topic "Nineteenth Century Clothing"

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Coo, Stéphanie Marie R. "Clothing and the colonial culture of appearances in nineteenth century Spanish Philippines (1820-1896)." Thesis, Nice, 2014. http://www.theses.fr/2014NICE2028/document.

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L’objectif de cette recherche est de reconstituer la culture ou les cultures vestimentaire(s) dans les Philippines espagnoles au XIXe siècle et de mettre en exergue l’importance du vêtement dans cette société coloniale. Cette étude explore les interactions, uniques et complexes, entre le vêtement et les apparences, d’une part, et, d’autre part, les catégories raciales, sociales et culturelles dans le contexte des changements sociaux, culturels et économiques qui sont intervenus entre 1820 et 1896. L’objectif est de restituer la vie coloniale en s’appuyant sur le vêtement dans la mesure où il permet d’aborder de nombreux problèmes raciaux, sociaux, économiques et de genre qui agitent les Philippines de cette époque. Pour la première fois, l’étude des vêtements est ici utilisée pour comprendre les changements socio-culturels et économiques qui sont intervenus dans la société coloniale des Philippines au XIXe siècle. Les différents groupes raciaux et sociaux philippins sous domination espagnole sont analysés à travers leurs vêtements. Cette étude des pratiques vestimentaires aux Philippines s’inscrit dans le contexte d'une société coloniale pluriethnique et pluriculturelle. Après des siècles de colonisations, les Philippines du XIXe siècle étaient – et, dans une certaine mesure, restent – un amalgame de cultures autochtone, occidentale et chinoise. L’analyse des pratiques vestimentaires comme élément de l’histoire coloniale s’inscrit, plus largement, dans l’étude des interactions culturelles, des modes de vie coloniaux, des relations humaines et des comportements sociaux. Le vêtement et les apparences ont été analysés avec l’objectif de mieux comprendre les hiérarchies ethniques, sociales et de genre à cette époque. Cette recherche prétend dépasser les frontières académiques entre les catégories des études philippines, de l’histoire coloniale et de l’étude du vêtement
The purpose of this research is to reconstruct the clothing culture of 19th century Spanish Philippines and to discover the importance of dress in Philippine colonial society. This study explores the unique and complex interplay of clothing and appearance with race, class and culture in the context of the social, cultural and economic changes that took place between 1820 and 1896. The objective is to recreate an impression of colonial life by turning to clothes to provide insights on a wide range of race, class, gender and economic issues. For the first time, this uses the study of clothing to understand the socio-cultural and economic changes that took place in 19th century Philippine colonial society. The different racial and social groups of the Philippines under Spanish colonization were analyzed in light of their clothing. This locates the study of Philippine clothing practices in the context of a multi-ethnic, multi-cultural colonial society. After centuries of colonization, 19th century Philippines was – and continues to be- an amalgam of indigenous, Western and Chinese cultures. This study of clothing practices as an element of colonial life points to a broader study of cultural interactions, colonial lifestyles, human relations and social behavior. Clothing and appearance were analyzed to understand the ethnic, social and gender hierarchies of that period. This work crosses the frontiers between the disciplines of Philippine studies, colonial history and costume studies
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Silva, Blanc Luisina. "Colonial threads: Clothing and identity in Eighteenth and Early Nineteenth-Century Lima and Mexico City." Doctoral thesis, Universitat Pompeu Fabra, 2019. http://hdl.handle.net/10803/668772.

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Attention toward textile production and clothing consumption in Spanish Latin American increased during the end of the colonial period and was reflected in new regulations, newspaper articles, tighter control by the Catholic Church and the Bourbon reforms. My dissertation addresses why clothing had such significant economic and cultural value and how individuals formed their identity through appearance. I focus on Lima and Mexico City as the primary production, distribution and consumption centers of colonial Latin America. My study centers on several historical documents that I analyze with digital tools as I explore the complex social and cultural negotiation of the colonial fashion system. I argue that dress could both reveal or hide ones’ identity and could display individuality or highlight commonality. My work expands on the notion that clothing reflected moral values whereby luxury and excess were as improper as nakedness. To conclude, I unveil a network of surveillance developed to ensure the secure and accurate distinction of individuals and guarantee proper consumption.
La atención hacia la producción textil y el consumo de indumentaria aumentó en el último período de las colonias españolas en Latinoamérica. Esto se vio reflejado en nuevas regulaciones, artículos de diarios, un control más estricto de la iglesia católica y las reformas borbónicas. Mi tesis doctoral investiga por qué la vestimenta tenía un valor económico y cultural tan importante y cómo las personas construían su identidad a través de la apariencia. Este estudio se centra en Lima y Ciudad de México como los principales puntos de producción, distribución y consumo de moda de Latinoamérica colonial. Mi trabajo se basa en documentos históricos que analizo con herramientas digitales para explorar la compleja negociación social y cultural del sistema de moda transatlántica. La vestimenta podía revelar u ocultar la identidad de la persona y mostrar individualidad o pertenencia a grupos específicos. Mi trabajo amplía la noción de que la apariencia reflejaba valores morales según los cuales el lujo y el exceso eran tan inadecuados como la desnudez. Para concluir, presento una red de vigilancia desarrollada para garantizar el fácil y preciso reconocimiento de los individuos a través de la apariencia y garantizar un consumo adecuado.
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Mayer, Tara. "Clothing and the imperial image : European dress, identity and authority in late eighteenth and early nineteenth century North India." Thesis, SOAS, University of London, 2010. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.572826.

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SOUZA, PATRICIA MARCH DE. "VISIBILITY OF SLAVERY: REPRESENTATIONS AND PRACTICES OF CLOTHING IN QUOTIDIAN OF SLAVES IN NINETEENTH-CENTURY RIO DE JANEIRO." PONTIFÍCIA UNIVERSIDADE CATÓLICA DO RIO DE JANEIRO, 2011. http://www.maxwell.vrac.puc-rio.br/Busca_etds.php?strSecao=resultado&nrSeq=17541@1.

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PONTIFÍCIA UNIVERSIDADE CATÓLICA DO RIO DE JANEIRO
O presente trabalho tem como propósito rever o papel que tem sido atribuído ao vestuário no cotidiano dos escravos da cidade do Rio de Janeiro nos Oitocentos, introduzindo novos elementos para ampliar a compreensão de como escravos praticavam o vestir na experiência do cativeiro, tendo em vista duas funções do vestuário: alteração visual do corpo e meio de comunicação interpessoal. Essa investigação se desenvolve através de um exame crítico de fontes textuais e imagéticas, representações construídas acerca da aparência dos escravos observados através do olhar do outro, no qual a roupa é um fator significativo na caracterização da população negra e escrava. Na descrição da roupa, formas de vestir, associadas a demarcações sociais e culturas de origem, generalizam e estereotipam a visualidade de mulheres e homens negros, com a criação de tipos de alcance limitado, não condizente com o contexto social, cultural e econômico do Rio de Janeiro no século XIX. A tese percorre textos e imagens de relatos e narrativas de viajantes, fotografias e anúncios de fugas de escravos, dos quais podem ser extraídos elementos para um duplo e simultâneo intento: enxergar o escravo como objeto e como sujeito. Duas possibilidades de investigação que apontam para duas linhas de abordagem, a primeira relacionada a representações que mostram como seus autores observavam, apreendiam e interpretavam a existência cativa, e a segunda relacionada a possibilidades existentes utilizadas pelos escravos em busca de uma identidade própria com a criação de práticas no ato de vestir-se.
This work aims to review the role that has been attributed to the clothing in quotidian of the slaves of Rio de Janeiro in the nineteenth century, introducing new elements to broaden the understanding of how the slaves practiced dressing on the experience of captivity, in view of two clothing functions: visual change of the body and means of interpersonal communication. This research is developed through a critical examination of textual and image sources. Representations built on the appearance of slaves seen through the eyes of the other in which clothing is a significant factor in characterizing the black and the slave population. In the description of clothing, manners of dress, coupled with social distinctions and cultures of origin, generalize and stereotype the visibility of black men and women, with the creation of types of limited scope, inconsistent with the social, cultural and economic context of Rio de Janeiro in the nineteenth century. The thesis goes through texts and images and narrative reports of travelers, photos and advertisements of runaway slaves, of which elements can be extracted for a simultaneous dual purpose: to see the slave as object and as subject. Two possibilities of research pointing two different approaches, the first relates to the representations that show how the authors observed, assimilate and interpret the existence and the second related to captive possibilities used by slaves seeking their own identity by creating practices in the act of dressing up.
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Araujo, Marli Gomes de. "A influência da moda na literatura: a caracterização da personagem de ficção nos romances brasileiros do século XIX." Universidade de São Paulo, 2018. http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/100/100133/tde-26092018-084252/.

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O objeto de estudo nesta pesquisa é a verificação da influência da indumentária e da moda na caracterização da personagem de ficção nos romances brasileiros do século XIX, através da análise dos romances Cinco Minutos (1856), A Viuvinha (1857), Lucíola (1862), A pata da gazela (1870) e Senhora (1875), de José de Alencar; Iaiá Garcia (1878), Memórias póstumas de Brás Cubas (1881), Dom Casmurro (1899) e Quincas Borba (1891), de Machado de Assis; e O cortiço (1890), de Aluísio Azevedo. No estudo são efetuadas analogias entre moda, roupa e literatura, com a finalidade de identificar a presença da moda e da indumentária como suporte narrativo pelos autores para a caracterização das personagens nos romances analisados, bem como detectar o caminho da construção do imaginário do leitor por meio de representações aproximadas de modelos das roupas descritas pelos romancistas, sendo utilizados, para isso, recursos iconográficos como a fotografia, a ilustração e as notícias e imagens de jornais e revistas de época. Também são apresentadas nesta pesquisa as questões econômicas, sociais e culturais que abrangem a contextualização do século dezenove em consonância com os fatos apresentados nos romances. O período refere-se de 1850 a 1890
This research studies the influence of clothing and fashion in the characterization of the figures in 19th Century Brazilian fiction, analyzing novels like Cinco minutos (1856), A Viuvinha (1857), Lucíola (1862), A pata da gazela (1870) and Senhora (1875), of José de Alencar; Iaiá Garcia (1878), Memórias Póstumas de Brás Cubas (1881), Dom Casmurro (1899) and Quincas Borba (1891), Machado de Assis; and O cortiço (1890), Aluísio Azevedo. In this study, analogies are made between fashion, clothing, and literature for the purpose of identifying the authors use of fashion and clothing as narrative support for portraying and understanding the characters. The study also tries to include images such as period photographs and illustrations to help shape the readers imaginary construction of the characters. In this research, the economic, social, and cultural issues of the period (1850 to 1890) are also presented to help understand the historical context of the time presented in the novels
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De, Lutis Karen. "Women and trousers : being a work on dual garnitures and a case study of the bifurcated movement in nineteenth-century clothing for women in North America." Thesis, National Library of Canada = Bibliothèque nationale du Canada, 2000. http://www.collectionscanada.ca/obj/s4/f2/dsk1/tape3/PQDD_0021/MQ54345.pdf.

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Lappas, Jennifer. "A Plantation Family Wardrobe, 1825 - 1835." VCU Scholars Compass, 2010. http://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/etd/2299.

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Geurts, Anna Paulina Helena. "Makeshift freedom seekers : Dutch travellers in Europe, 1815-1914." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2013. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:2cfa072e-a9c4-42c9-a6b0-1e815d93b05c.

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This thesis questions a series of assumptions concerning the nineteenth- and early-twentieth-century modernization of European spaces. Current scholarship tends to concur with essayistic texts and images by contemporary intellectuals that technological and organizational developments increased the freedom of movement of those living in western-European societies, while at the same time alienating them from each other and from their environment. I assess this claim with the help of Dutch travel egodocuments such as travel diaries and letters. After a prosopographical investigation of all available northern-Netherlandish travel egodocuments created between 1500 and 1915, a selection of these documents is examined in greater detail. In these documents, travellers regarded the possession of identity documents, a correct appearance, and a fitting social identity along with their personal contacts, physical capabilities, and the weather as the most important factors influencing whether they managed to gain access to places. A discussion of these factors demonstrates that no linear increase, nor a decrease, occurred in the spatial power felt by travellers. The exclusion many travellers continued to experience was often overdetermined. The largest groups affected by this were women and less educated families. Yet travellers could also play out different access factors against each other. By paying attention to how practices matched hopes and expectations, it is possible to discover how gravely social inequities were really felt by travellers. Perhaps surprisingly, all social groups desired to visit the same types of places. Their main difference concerned the atmosphere of the places where the different groups felt at home. To a large degree this matched travellers' unequal opportunities. Therefore, although opportunities remained strongly unequal throughout the period, this was not always experienced as a problem. Also, in cases where it was, many travellers knew strategies to work around the obstacles created for them.
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Books on the topic "Nineteenth Century Clothing"

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Oswald, Curtis, ed. Nineteenth-century costume and fashion. Mineola, N.Y: Dover Publications, 1998.

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Marion, Kite, Persson Helen, Davis Richard 1960-, and Davis Leonie, eds. Nineteenth-century fashion in detail. London: V&A Publications, 2005.

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Razek, Rula. Dress codes: Reading nineteenth century fashion. Stanford, Calif: Humanities Honors Program, Stanford University, 1999.

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Razek, Rula. Dress codes: Reading nineteenth century fashion. Stanford, Calif: Humanities Honors Program, Stanford University, 1999.

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Marion, Kite, and Persson Helen, eds. Nineteenth century fashion in detail. New York, NY: Victoria & Albert Museum, 2009.

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Foster, Vanda. A visual history of costume: The nineteenth century. London: Batsford, 1992.

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Fashioning the bourgeoisie: A history of clothing in the nineteenth century. Princeton, N.J: Princeton University Press, 1994.

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Oshima, Neal M. Images from sheer realities: Clothing and power in nineteenth century Philippines. Manila, Philippines: Bookmark, 2000.

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Joaquin, Nick. The world of Damián Domingo: Nineteenth century Manila. Manila: Metropolitan Museum of Manila, 1990.

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Willett, Cunnington C. English women's clothing in the nineteenth century: A comprehensive guide with 1,117 illustrations. New York: Dover Publications, 1990.

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Book chapters on the topic "Nineteenth Century Clothing"

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Spooner, Catherine. "Modes of Wearing the Towel: Masculinity, Insanity, and Clothing in Trollope’s ‘The Turkish Bath’." In Bodies and Things in Nineteenth-Century Literature and Culture, 66–83. London: Palgrave Macmillan UK, 2012. http://dx.doi.org/10.1057/9781137283658_4.

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Mackay, M. Elaine. "Three Thousand Stitches: The Development of the Clothing Industry in Nineteenth-Century Halifax." In Fashion, 166–81. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 2004. http://dx.doi.org/10.3138/9781442674806-010.

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Paparella, Sabrina. "Dressed to Kill: Manipulating Perceived Social Class Through the Con of Clothing in Nineteenth- and Early Twentieth-Century Fiction." In Performativity of Villainy and Evil in Anglophone Literature and Media, 315–36. Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-76055-7_18.

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Toplis, Alison. "A Stolen Garment or a Reasonable Purchase? The Male Consumer and the Illicit Second-Hand Clothing Market in the First Half of the Nineteenth Century." In Modernity and the Second-Hand Trade, 57–72. London: Palgrave Macmillan UK, 2010. http://dx.doi.org/10.1057/9780230290549_4.

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Smith-Rosenberg, Carroll. "Modernity Clothing." In Fashioning the Nineteenth Century, 29–51. University of Minnesota Press, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.5749/minnesota/9780816687466.003.0004.

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Monfort, Bruno. "Clothing the Marmorean Flock." In Fashioning the Nineteenth Century, 106–29. University of Minnesota Press, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.5749/minnesota/9780816687466.003.0007.

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Rubinstein, Ruth P. "Nineteenth-Century Theories of Clothing." In Dress Codes, 19–35. Routledge, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.4324/9780429495281-2.

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Hatfield, Mary. "Fashioning Childhood." In Growing Up in Nineteenth-Century Ireland, 94–125. Oxford University Press, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198843429.003.0003.

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Clothing was an important signifier of status and gender and became more closely associated with childhood health and well-being during the first four decades of the nineteenth century. Although the importance of appearance within fashionable society has long historical antecedents, during this period children’s costumes became part of the discourse of good parenting. Children and infants were more intensely scrutinized for their appearance, and bourgeois parents were under more cultural pressure to ensure that their children had the accoutrements of healthy childhood. Within the deeply hierarchical social world of nineteenth-century Ireland, personal image was consistently conflated with public position. Children’s fashion represents adults’ social and gendered expectations of their children, while also depicting the physical world children inhabited during early childhood. An increased emphasis on accruing artefacts of childhood became tied to middle-class identity and respectability. Purchasing the newest toy or children’s book indicated not just an anticipation of the child’s needs but was a symbol of social status.
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Clarke, Alison. "‘What Beautiful Children These Are!’: Clothing the Baby." In Born to a Changing World: Childbirth in Nineteenth-Century New Zealand, 97–113. Bridget Williams Books, 2012. http://dx.doi.org/10.7810/9781927131428_4.

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Lamas, Carmen E. "Conclusion." In The Latino Continuum and the Nineteenth-Century Americas, 207–14. Oxford University Press, 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198871484.003.0007.

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In Sofía Martín Morúa Delgado would stress that clothes are markers: markers of taste, cultural inclinations, socioeconomic status. They are also markers of place and geographic identifications, as Morúa would observe about the inadequate clothing worn by Americanized Cubans upon their return to the island after extended stays in the US, noting that their use of “lanas y franelas sencillas…conservaban una graciosa reminiscencia del tipo extranjero impreso en ambos por su larga estancia fuera de su país natal” (Morúa Delgado 1891, 102) (simple wools and flannels…retained an amusing reminiscence of the foreign type stamped on both because of their long stay outside of their countries of birth). He was not the only Latina/o author who found himself moving between spaces, on a Latino Continuum, on which clothing, like texts and life events, served as markers of that experience. Take for example the martyred Cuban poet, Juan Clemente Zenea (1832–71), who, although on a diplomatic mission to the island, was executed by Spanish authorities as a traitor to the Spanish cause in Cuba. He would likewise comment on the experience of living in a new country, but this time through the lens of emotions and desire in the doomed love affair of a displaced couple who yearn for their homeland as they walk down ...
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