Academic literature on the topic 'Nom – Asie mineure'

During the Wisconsinan Stage, ice of the Cuyahoga Lobe flowed southward from the Erie Basin through a lowland created by an ancestral Cuyahoga River. The paleovalley of the Cuyahoga River is filled with the pre-Woodfordian tills and lacustrine deposits. The oldest till, the Mogadore Till, overlies proglacial lacustrine deposits. After retreat of Mogadore ice into the Erie Basin, ice readvanced to deposit a previously unnamed till, Northampton Till, over deltaic and lacustrine deposits of Lake Cuyahoga. Northampton ice melted back into the Erie Basin after depositing the core of the Summit County morainic complex. Northampton ice then readvanced over deposits of proglacial Lake Independence and formed the Defiance Moraine. Aside from minor leaching of carbonates and weathering of clay minerals, little evidence of the Farmdalian Substage exists. Woodfordian, Kent, Lavery, and Hiram tills were deposited over pre-Woodfordian deposits.The multiple nature of the pre-Woodfordian tills in the Cuyahoga Lobe is similar to that of the Titusville Till in Pennsylvania and northeastern Ohio. Northampton Till is distinctive in having a significantly different matrix texture and carbonate content from either the Mogadore or the Kent Till. Organic debris suitable for dating from pre-Woodfordian deposits is rare because of glacial erosion and drainage changes. Lack of radiocarbon dates continues to complicate the interpretation of the Pre-Woodfordian stratigraphy.Durant l'épisode wisconsinien, la glace du lobe de Cuyahoga s'écoulait vers le sud à partir du bassin Érié en traversant une plaine créée par l'ancien lit de la rivière Cuyahoga. La paléovallée de la rivière Cuyahoga est comblée de tills et de dépôts lacustres. Le till le plus ancien, Mogadore, recouvre les dépôts lacustres proglaciaires. La régression du glacier de Mogadore fut suivie d'une progression qui édifia un till, jadis sans nom, mais ultérieurement appelé le till Northampton, lequel recouvre les dépôts deltaïques et lacustres du lac Cuyahoga. Le front du glacier de Northampton recula dans le bassin Érié après y avoir déposé la partie centrale du complexe morainique de Summit County. Ensuite, le glacier de Northampton réavança et recouvrit les dépôts du lac proglaciaire Independence et y déposa la moraine Defiance. À part un lessivage mineur des carbonates et une légère altération des minéraux argileux, il y a peu d'indice de l'exitence du sous-épisode farmdalien. Les tills du Woodfordien, Kent, Lavery et Hiram furent ont été mis en place par-dessus les dépôts pré-woodfordiens.

This article investigates the prosthesis of identity through the process of branding. It examines cross-cultural manifestations of this phenomena from sixth millennium BCE Syria to twelfth century Japan and Britain. From the Neolithic Era, humanity has sort to extend their identities using pictorial signs that were characteristically simple. Designed to be distinctive and instantly recognisable, the totemic symbols served to signal the origin of the bearer. Subsequently, the development of branding coincided with periods of increased in mobility both in respect to geography and social strata. This includes fifth millennium Mesopotamia, nineteenth century Britain, and America during the 1920s.There are fewer articles of greater influence on contemporary culture than A Theory of Human Motivation written by Abraham Maslow in 1943. Nearly seventy-five years later, his theories about the societal need for “belongingness” and “esteem” remain a mainstay of advertising campaigns (Maslow). Although the principles are used to sell a broad range of products from shampoo to breakfast cereal they are epitomised by apparel. This is with refence to garments and accessories bearing corporation logos. Whereas other purchased items, imbued with abstract products, are intended for personal consumption the public display of these symbols may be interpreted as a form of signalling. The intention of the wearers is to literally seek the fulfilment of the aforementioned social needs. This article investigates the use of brands as prosthesis.Coats and Crests: Identity Garnered on Garments in the Middle Ages and the Muromachi PeriodA logo, at its most basic, is a pictorial sign. In his essay, The Visual Language, Ernest Gombrich described the principle as reducing images to “distinctive features” (Gombrich 46). They represent a “simplification of code,” the meaning of which we are conditioned to recognise (Gombrich 46). Logos may also be interpreted as a manifestation of totemism. According to anthropologist Claude Levi-Strauss, the principle exists in all civilisations and reflects an effort to evoke the power of nature (71-127). Totemism is also a method of population distribution (Levi-Strauss 166).This principle, in a form garnered on garments, is manifested in Mon Kiri. The practice of cutting out family crests evolved into a form of corporate branding in Japan during the Meiji Period (1868-1912) (Christensen 14). During the Muromachi period (1336-1573) the crests provided an integral means of identification on the battlefield (Christensen 13). The adorning of crests on armour was also exercised in Europe during the twelfth century, when the faces of knights were similarly obscured by helmets (Family Crests of Japan 8). Both Mon Kiri and “Coat[s] of Arms” utilised totemic symbols (Family Crests of Japan 8; Elven 14; Christensen 13). The mon for the imperial family (figs. 1 & 2) during the Muromachi Period featured chrysanthemum and paulownia flowers (Goin’ Japaneque). “Coat[s] of Arms” in Britain featured a menagerie of animals including lions (fig. 3), horses and eagles (Elven).The prothesis of identity through garnering symbols on the battlefield provided “safety” through demonstrating “belongingness”. This constituted a conflation of two separate “needs” in the “hierarchy of prepotency” propositioned by Maslow. Fig. 1. The mon symbolising the Imperial Family during the Muromachi Period featured chrysanthemum and paulownia. "Kamon (Japanese Family Crests): Ancient Key to Samurai Culture." Goin' Japaneque! 15 Nov. 2015. 27 July 2019 <http://goinjapanesque.com/05983/>.Fig. 2. An example of the crest being utilised on a garment can be found in this portrait of samurai Oda Nobunaga. "Japan's 12 Most Famous Samurai." All About Japan. 27 Aug. 2018. 27 July 2019 <https://allabout-japan.com/en/article/5818/>.Fig. 3. A detail from the “Index of Subjects of Crests.” Elven, John Peter. The Book of Family Crests: Comprising Nearly Every Family Bearing, Properly Blazoned and Explained, Accompanied by Upwards of Four Thousand Engravings. Henry Washbourne, 1847.The Pursuit of Prestige: Prosthetic Pedigree from the Late Georgian to the Victorian Eras In 1817, the seal engraver to Prince Regent, Alexander Deuchar, described the function of family crests in British Crests: Containing The Crest and Mottos of The Families of Great Britain and Ireland; Together with Those of The Principal Cities and Heraldic Terms as follows: The first approach to civilization is the distinction of ranks. So necessary is this to the welfare and existence of society, that, without it, anarchy and confusion must prevail… In an early stage, heraldic emblems were characteristic of the bearer… Certain ordinances were made, regulating the mode of bearing arms, and who were entitled to bear them. (i-v)The partitioning of social classes in Britain had deteriorated by the time this compendium was published, with displays of “conspicuous consumption” displacing “heraldic emblems” as a primary method of status signalling (Deuchar 2; Han et al. 18). A consumerism born of newfound affluence, and the desire to signify this wealth through luxury goods, was as integral to the Industrial Revolution as technological development. In Rebels against the Future, published in 1996, Kirkpatrick Sale described the phenomenon:A substantial part of the new population, though still a distinct minority, was made modestly affluent, in some places quite wealthy, by privatization of of the countryside and the industrialization of the cities, and by the sorts of commercial and other services that this called forth. The new money stimulated the consumer demand… that allowed a market economy of a scope not known before. (40)This also reflected improvements in the provision of “health, food [and] education” (Maslow; Snow 25-28). With their “physiological needs” accommodated, this ”substantial part” of the population were able to prioritised their “esteem needs” including the pursuit for prestige (Sale 40; Maslow).In Britain during the Middle Ages laws “specified in minute detail” what each class was permitted to wear (Han et al. 15). A groom, for example, was not able to wear clothing that exceeded two marks in value (Han et al. 15). In a distinct departure during the Industrial Era, it was common for the “middling and lower classes” to “ape” the “fashionable vices of their superiors” (Sale 41). Although mon-like labels that were “simplified so as to be conspicuous and instantly recognisable” emerged in Europe during the nineteenth century their application on garments remained discrete up until the early twentieth century (Christensen 13-14; Moore and Reid 24). During the 1920s, the French companies Hermes and Coco Chanel were amongst the clothing manufacturers to pioneer this principle (Chaney; Icon).During the 1860s, Lincolnshire-born Charles Frederick Worth affixed gold stamped labels to the insides of his garments (Polan et al. 9; Press). Operating from Paris, the innovation was consistent with the introduction of trademark laws in France in 1857 (Lopes et al.). He would become known as the “Father of Haute Couture”, creating dresses for royalty and celebrities including Empress Eugene from Constantinople, French actress Sarah Bernhardt and Australian Opera Singer Nellie Melba (Lopes et al.; Krick). The clothing labels proved and ineffective deterrent to counterfeit, and by the 1890s the House of Worth implemented other measures to authenticate their products (Press). The legitimisation of the origin of a product is, arguably, the primary function of branding. This principle is also applicable to subjects. The prothesis of brands, as totemic symbols, assisted consumers to relocate themselves within a new system of population distribution (Levi-Strauss 166). It was one born of commerce as opposed to heraldry.Selling of Self: Conferring Identity from the Neolithic to Modern ErasIn his 1817 compendium on family crests, Deuchar elaborated on heraldry by writing:Ignoble birth was considered as a stain almost indelible… Illustrious parentage, on the other hand, constituted the very basis of honour: it communicated peculiar rights and privileges, to which the meaner born man might not aspire. (v-vi)The Twinings Logo (fig. 4) has remained unchanged since the design was commissioned by the grandson of the company founder Richard Twining in 1787 (Twining). In addition to reflecting the heritage of the family-owned company, the brand indicated the origin of the tea. This became pertinent during the nineteenth century. Plantations began to operate from Assam to Ceylon (Jones 267-269). Amidst the rampant diversification of tea sources in the Victorian era, concerns about the “unhygienic practices” of Chinese producers were proliferated (Wengrow 11). Subsequently, the brand also offered consumers assurance in quality. Fig. 4. The Twinings Logo reproduced from "History of Twinings." Twinings. 24 July 2019 <https://www.twinings.co.uk/about-twinings/history-of-twinings>.The term ‘brand’, adapted from the Norse “brandr”, was introduced into the English language during the sixteenth century (Starcevic 179). At its most literal, it translates as to “burn down” (Starcevic 179). Using hot elements to singe markings onto animals been recorded as early as 2700 BCE in Egypt (Starcevic 182). However, archaeologists concur that the modern principle of branding predates this practice. The implementation of carved seals or stamps to make indelible impressions of handcrafted objects dates back to Prehistoric Mesopotamia (Starcevic 183; Wengrow 13). Similar traditions developed during the Bronze Age in both China and the Indus Valley (Starcevic 185). In all three civilisations branding facilitated both commerce and aspects of Totemism. In the sixth millennium BCE in “Prehistoric” Mesopotamia, referred to as the Halaf period, stone seals were carved to emulate organic form such as animal teeth (Wengrow 13-14). They were used to safeguard objects by “confer[ring] part of the bearer’s personality” (Wengrow 14). They were concurrently applied to secure the contents of vessels containing “exotic goods” used in transactions (Wengrow 15). Worn as amulets (figs. 5 & 6) the seals, and the symbols they produced, were a physical extension of their owners (Wengrow 14).Fig. 5. Recreation of stamp seal amulets from Neolithic Mesopotamia during the sixth millennium BCE. Wengrow, David. "Prehistories of Commodity Branding." Current Anthropology 49.1 (2008): 14.Fig. 6. “Lot 25Y: Rare Syrian Steatite Amulet – Fertility God 5000 BCE.” The Salesroom. 27 July 2019 <https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/artemis-gallery-ancient-art/catalogue-id-srartem10006/lot-a850d229-a303-4bae-b68c-a6130005c48a>. Fig. 7. Recreation of stamp seal designs from Mesopotamia from the late fifth to fourth millennium BCE. Wengrow, David. "Prehistories of Commodity Branding." Current Anthropology 49. 1 (2008): 16.In the following millennia, the seals would increase exponentially in application and aesthetic complexity (fig. 7) to support the development of household cum cottage industries (Wengrow 15). In addition to handcrafts, sealed vessels would transport consumables such as wine, aromatic oils and animal fats (Wengrow 18). The illustrations on the seals included depictions of rituals undertaken by human figures and/or allegories using animals. It can be ascertained that the transition in the Victorian Era from heraldry to commerce, from family to corporation, had precedence. By extension, consumers were able to participate in this process of value attribution using brands as signifiers. The principle remained prevalent during the modern and post-modern eras and can be respectively interpreted using structuralist and post-structuralist theory.Totemism to Simulacrum: The Evolution of Advertising from the Modern to Post-Modern Eras In 2011, Lisa Chaney wrote of the inception of the Coco Chanel logo (fig. 8) in her biography Chanel: An Intimate Life: A crucial element in the signature design of the Chanel No.5 bottle is the small black ‘C’ within a black circle set as the seal at the neck. On the top of the lid are two more ‘C’s, intertwined back to back… from at least 1924, the No5 bottles sported the unmistakable logo… these two ‘C’s referred to Gabrielle, – in other words Coco Chanel herself, and would become the logo for the House of Chanel. Chaney continued by describing Chanel’s fascination of totemic symbols as expressed through her use of tarot cards. She also “surrounded herself with objects ripe with meaning” such as representations of wheat and lions in reference prosperity and to her zodiac symbol ‘Leo’ respectively. Fig. 8. No5 Chanel Perfume, released in 1924, featured a seal-like logo attached to the bottle neck. “No5.” Chanel. 25 July 2019 <https://www.chanel.com/us/fragrance/p/120450/n5-parfum-grand-extrait/>.Fig. 9. This illustration of the bottle by Georges Goursat was published in a women’s magazine circa 1920s. “1921 Chanel No5.” Inside Chanel. 26 July 2019 <http://inside.chanel.com/en/timeline/1921_no5>; “La 4éme Fête de l’Histoire Samedi 16 et dimache 17 juin.” Ville de Perigueux. Musée d’art et d’archéologie du Périgord. 28 Mar. 2018. 26 July 2019 <https://www.perigueux-maap.fr/category/archives/page/5/>. This product was considered the “financial basis” of the Chanel “empire” which emerged during the second and third decades of the twentieth century (Tikkanen). Chanel is credited for revolutionising Haute Couture by introducing chic modern designs that emphasised “simplicity and comfort.” This was as opposed to the corseted highly embellished fashion that characterised the Victorian Era (Tikkanen). The lavish designs released by the House of Worth were, in and of themselves, “conspicuous” displays of “consumption” (Veblen 17). In contrast, the prestige and status associated with the “poor girl” look introduced by Chanel was invested in the story of the designer (Tikkanen). A primary example is her marinière or sailor’s blouse with a Breton stripe that epitomised her ascension from café singer to couturier (Tikkanen; Burstein 8). This signifier might have gone unobserved by less discerning consumers of fashion if it were not for branding. Not unlike the Prehistoric Mesopotamians, this iteration of branding is a process which “confer[s]” the “personality” of the designer into the garment (Wengrow 13 -14). The wearer of the garment is, in turn, is imbued by extension. Advertisers in the post-structuralist era embraced Levi-Strauss’s structuralist anthropological theories (Williamson 50). This is with particular reference to “bricolage” or the “preconditioning” of totemic symbols (Williamson 173; Pool 50). Subsequently, advertising creatives cum “bricoleur” employed his principles to imbue the brands with symbolic power. This symbolic capital was, arguably, transferable to the product and, ultimately, to its consumer (Williamson 173).Post-structuralist and semiotician Jean Baudrillard “exhaustively” critiqued brands and the advertising, or simulacrum, that embellished them between the late 1960s and early 1980s (Wengrow 10-11). In Simulacra and Simulation he wrote,it is the reflection of a profound reality; it masks and denatures a profound reality; it masks the absence of a profound reality; it has no relation to any reality whatsoever: it is its own pure simulacrum. (6)The symbolic power of the Chanel brand resonates in the ‘profound reality’ of her story. It is efficiently ‘denatured’ through becoming simplified, conspicuous and instantly recognisable. It is, as a logo, physically juxtaposed as simulacra onto apparel. This simulacrum, in turn, effects the ‘profound reality’ of the consumer. In 1899, economist Thorstein Veblen wrote in The Theory of the Leisure Class:Conspicuous consumption of valuable goods it the means of reputability to the gentleman of leisure… costly entertainments, such as potlatch or the ball, are peculiarly adapted to serve this end… he consumes vicariously for his host at the same time that he is witness to the consumption… he is also made to witness his host’s facility in etiquette. (47)Therefore, according to Veblen, it was the witnessing of “wasteful” consumption that “confers status” as opposed the primary conspicuous act (Han et al. 18). Despite television being in its experimental infancy advertising was at “the height of its powers” during the 1920s (Clark et al. 18; Hill 30). Post-World War I consumers, in America, experienced an unaccustomed level of prosperity and were unsuspecting of the motives of the newly formed advertising agencies (Clark et al. 18). Subsequently, the ‘witnessing’ of consumption could be constructed across a plethora of media from the newly emerged commercial radio to billboards (Hill viii–25). The resulting ‘status’ was ‘conferred’ onto brand logos. Women’s magazines, with a legacy dating back to 1828, were a primary locus (Hill 10).Belonging in a Post-Structuralist WorldIt is significant to note that, in a post-structuralist world, consumers do not exclusively seek upward mobility in their selection of brands. The establishment of counter-culture icon Levi-Strauss and Co. was concurrent to the emergence of both The House of Worth and Coco Chanel. The Bavarian-born Levi Strauss commenced selling apparel in San Francisco in 1853 (Levi’s). Two decades later, in partnership with Nevada born tailor Jacob Davis, he patented the “riveted-for-strength” workwear using blue denim (Levi’s). Although the ontology of ‘jeans’ is contested, references to “Jene Fustyan” date back the sixteenth century (Snyder 139). It involved the combining cotton, wool and linen to create “vestments” for Geonese sailors (Snyder 138). The Two Horse Logo (fig. 10), depicting them unable to pull apart a pair of jeans to symbolise strength, has been in continuous use by Levi Strauss & Co. company since its design in 1886 (Levi’s). Fig. 10. The Two Horse Logo by Levi Strauss & Co. has been in continuous use since 1886. Staff Unzipped. "Two Horses. One Message." Heritage. Levi Strauss & Co. 1 July 2011. 25 July 2019 <https://www.levistrauss.com/2011/07/01/two-horses-many-versions-one-message/>.The “rugged wear” would become the favoured apparel amongst miners at American Gold Rush (Muthu 6). Subsequently, between the 1930s – 1960s Hollywood films cultivated jeans as a symbol of “defiance” from Stage Coach staring John Wayne in 1939 to Rebel without A Cause staring James Dean in 1955 (Muthu 6; Edgar). Consequently, during the 1960s college students protesting in America (fig. 11) against the draft chose the attire to symbolise their solidarity with the working class (Hedarty). Notwithstanding a 1990s fashion revision of denim into a diversity of garments ranging from jackets to skirts, jeans have remained a wardrobe mainstay for the past half century (Hedarty; Muthu 10). Fig. 11. Although the brand label is not visible, jeans as initially introduced to the American Goldfields in the nineteenth century by Levi Strauss & Co. were cultivated as a symbol of defiance from the 1930s – 1960s. It documents an anti-war protest that occurred at the Pentagon in 1967. Cox, Savannah. "The Anti-Vietnam War Movement." ATI. 14 Dec. 2016. 16 July 2019 <https://allthatsinteresting.com/vietnam-war-protests#7>.In 2003, the journal Science published an article “Does Rejection Hurt? An Fmri Study of Social Exclusion” (Eisenberger et al.). The cross-institutional study demonstrated that the neurological reaction to rejection is indistinguishable to physical pain. Whereas during the 1940s Maslow classified the desire for “belonging” as secondary to “physiological needs,” early twenty-first century psychologists would suggest “[social] acceptance is a mechanism for survival” (Weir 50). In Simulacra and Simulation, Jean Baudrillard wrote: Today abstraction is no longer that of the map, the double, the mirror or the concept. Simulation is no longer that of a territory, a referential being or a substance. It is the generation by models of a real without origin or reality: a hyperreal… (1)In the intervening thirty-eight years since this document was published the artifice of our interactions has increased exponentially. In order to locate ‘belongness’ in this hyperreality, the identities of the seekers require a level of encoding. Brands, as signifiers, provide a vehicle.Whereas in Prehistoric Mesopotamia carved seals, worn as amulets, were used to extend the identity of a person, in post-digital China WeChat QR codes (fig. 12), stored in mobile phones, are used to facilitate transactions from exchanging contact details to commerce. Like other totems, they provide access to information such as locations, preferences, beliefs, marital status and financial circumstances. These individualised brands are the most recent incarnation of a technology that has developed over the past eight thousand years. The intermediary iteration, emblems affixed to garments, has remained prevalent since the twelfth century. Their continued salience is due to their visibility and, subsequent, accessibility as signifiers. Fig. 12. It may be posited that Wechat QR codes are a form individualised branding. Like other totems, they store information pertaining to the owner’s location, beliefs, preferences, marital status and financial circumstances. “Join Wechat groups using QR code on 2019.” Techwebsites. 26 July 2019 <https://techwebsites.net/join-wechat-group-qr-code/>.Fig. 13. Brands function effectively as signifiers is due to the international distribution of multinational corporations. This is the shopfront of Chanel in Dubai, which offers customers apparel bearing consistent insignia as the Parisian outlet at on Rue Cambon. Customers of Chanel can signify to each other with the confidence that their products will be recognised. “Chanel.” The Dubai Mall. 26 July 2019 <https://thedubaimall.com/en/shop/chanel>.Navigating a post-structuralist world of increasing mobility necessitates a rudimental understanding of these symbols. Whereas in the nineteenth century status was conveyed through consumption and witnessing consumption, from the twentieth century onwards the garnering of brands made this transaction immediate (Veblen 47; Han et al. 18). The bricolage of the brands is constructed by bricoleurs working in any number of contemporary creative fields such as advertising, filmmaking or song writing. They provide a system by which individuals can convey and recognise identities at prima facie. They enable the prosthesis of identity.ReferencesBaudrillard, Jean. Simulacra and Simulation. Trans. Sheila Faria Glaser. United States: University of Michigan Press, 1994.Burstein, Jessica. Cold Modernism: Literature, Fashion, Art. United States: Pennsylvania State University Press, 2012.Chaney, Lisa. Chanel: An Intimate Life. United Kingdom: Penguin Books Limited, 2011.Christensen, J.A. Cut-Art: An Introduction to Chung-Hua and Kiri-E. New York: Watson-Guptill Publications, 1989. Clark, Eddie M., Timothy C. Brock, David E. Stewart, David W. Stewart. Attention, Attitude, and Affect in Response to Advertising. United Kingdom: Taylor & Francis Group, 1994.Deuchar, Alexander. British Crests: Containing the Crests and Mottos of the Families of Great Britain and Ireland Together with Those of the Principal Cities – Primary So. London: Kirkwood & Sons, 1817.Ebert, Robert. “Great Movie: Stage Coach.” Robert Ebert.com. 1 Aug. 2011. 10 Mar. 2019 <https://www.rogerebert.com/reviews/great-movie-stagecoach-1939>.Elven, John Peter. The Book of Family Crests: Comprising Nearly Every Family Bearing, Properly Blazoned and Explained, Accompanied by Upwards of Four Thousand Engravings. London: Henry Washbourne, 1847.Eisenberger, Naomi I., Matthew D. Lieberman, and Kipling D. Williams. "Does Rejection Hurt? An Fmri Study of Social Exclusion." Science 302.5643 (2003): 290-92.Family Crests of Japan. California: Stone Bridge Press, 2007.Gombrich, Ernst. "The Visual Image: Its Place in Communication." Scientific American 272 (1972): 82-96.Hedarty, Stephanie. "How Jeans Conquered the World." BBC World Service. 28 Feb. 2012. 26 July 2019 <https://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-17101768>. Han, Young Jee, Joseph C. Nunes, and Xavier Drèze. "Signaling Status with Luxury Goods: The Role of Brand Prominence." Journal of Marketing 74.4 (2010): 15-30.Hill, Daniel Delis. Advertising to the American Woman, 1900-1999. United States of Ame: Ohio State University Press, 2002."History of Twinings." Twinings. 24 July 2019 <https://www.twinings.co.uk/about-twinings/history-of-twinings>. icon-icon: Telling You More about Icons. 18 Dec. 2016. 26 July 2019 <http://www.icon-icon.com/en/hermes-logo-the-horse-drawn-carriage/>. Jones, Geoffrey. Merchants to Multinationals: British Trading Companies in the 19th and 20th Centuries. Oxford: Oxford UP, 2002.Kamon (Japanese Family Crests): Ancient Key to Samurai Culture." Goin' Japaneque! 15 Nov. 2015. 27 July 2019 <http://goinjapanesque.com/05983/>. Krick, Jessa. "Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) and the House of Worth." Heilburnn Timeline of Art History. The Met. Oct. 2004. 23 July 2019 <https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm>. Levi’s. "About Levis Strauss & Co." 25 July 2019 <https://www.levis.com.au/about-us.html>. Lévi-Strauss, Claude. Totemism. London: Penguin, 1969.Lopes, Teresa de Silva, and Paul Duguid. Trademarks, Brands, and Competitiveness. Abingdon: Routledge, 2010.Maslow, Abraham. "A Theory of Human Motivation." British Journal of Psychiatry 208.4 (1942): 313-13.Moore, Karl, and Susan Reid. "The Birth of Brand: 4000 Years of Branding History." Business History 4.4 (2008).Muthu, Subramanian Senthikannan. Sustainability in Denim. Cambridge Woodhead Publishing, 2017.Polan, Brenda, and Roger Tredre. The Great Fashion Designers. Oxford: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2009.Pool, Roger C. Introduction. Totemism. New ed. Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1969.Press, Claire. Wardrobe Crisis: How We Went from Sunday Best to Fast Fashion. Melbourne: Schwartz Publishing, 2016.Sale, K. Rebels against the Future: The Luddites and Their War on the Industrial Revolution: Lessons for the Computer Age. Massachusetts: Addison-Wesley, 1996.Snow, C.P. The Two Cultures and the Scientific Revolution. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1959. Snyder, Rachel Louise. Fugitive Denim: A Moving Story of People and Pants in the Borderless World of Global Trade. New York: W.W. Norton, 2008.Starcevic, Sladjana. "The Origin and Historical Development of Branding and Advertising in the Old Civilizations of Africa, Asia and Europe." Marketing 46.3 (2015): 179-96.Tikkanen, Amy. "Coco Chanel." Encyclopaedia Britannica. 19 Apr. 2019. 25 July 2019 <https://www.britannica.com/biography/Coco-Chanel>.Veblen, Thorstein. The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study in the Evolution of Institutions. London: Macmillan, 1975.Weir, Kirsten. "The Pain of Social Rejection." American Psychological Association 43.4 (2012): 50.Williamson, Judith. Decoding Advertisements: Ideology and Meaning in Advertising. Ideas in Progress. London: Boyars, 1978.

La Pisidie, région montagneuse du sud-ouest de l’Asie Mineure, est un véritable conservatoire toponymique de la culture et des langues anatoliennes. Notre thèse porte sur la toponymie et l’ethnonymie de la Pisidie et sur la persistance des langues anatoliennes dans la toponymie de la région. La toponymie et l’ethnonymie nous révèlent l’emprise sur le territoire de chaque peuplement, qu’il s’agisse du peuplement anatolien ou des peuplements exogènes (principalement grecs et romains). En effet, par le choix de la langue utilisée pour créer le nom du lieu ou du peuple, nous en apprenons davantage sur la région. Après avoir réalisé un catalogue des toponymes et des ethnonymes de la Pisidie classés par types et discuté leur origine à l’aide d’arguments linguistiques pour chacun d’entre eux, nous étudions la présence grecque et les colonies romaines en envisageant les dominations successives du point de vue de la toponymie. Plusieurs thèmes sont abordés : la question du contrôle de la région à l’époque hellénistique, les fondations séleucides, ainsi que les colonies romaines fondées par Auguste. Puis, nous nous concentrons sur l’identité des Pisidiens, en étudiant la question de leur origine et des topoi qui leurs sont associés. Les continuités et les ruptures territoriales de la Pisidie sont abordées avant un panorama toponymique présentant un classement linguistique et un classement sémantique des toponymes en fonction du référentiel sémantique (eau, relief, végétation, etc.). L’essentiel des toponymes est descriptif et renvoie à des éléments du paysage
Pisidia, a mountainous region in southwestern Asia Minor, is a real toponymic conservatory of Anatolian culture and languages. Our thesis deals with the toponymy and ethnonymy of Pisidia and the persistence of Anatolian languages in the toponymy of the region. Toponymy and ethnonymy reveal the territorial control of each settlement, whether it be Anatolian population or exogenous settlements (mainly Greek and Roman). Indeed, by choosing the language used to create the name of the place or the people, we learn more about the region. After having produced a catalog of toponyms and ethnonyms of the Pisidia classified by types and after having discussed their origin using linguistic arguments for each one, we study the Greek presence and the Roman colonies by considering the successive domination in regard to toponymy. Several themes were discussed : the question of the control of the region during the Hellenistic period, the Seleucid foundations, as well as the Roman colonies founded by Augustus. Then we focus on the identity of the Pisidians, studying the question of their origin and the topoi associated with them. The continuities and territorial cleavage of Pisidia are discussed before a toponymic panorama showing a linguistic classification and a semantic classification of toponyms based on the semantic repository (water, relief, vegetation, etc.). Most of the place names are descriptive and refer to elements of the landscape

Until the 1960s, two works of Johannes Sundwall were the unique repertories of the onomastics of Asia Minor. In 1963 appeared Noms indigènes de l’Asie Mineure gréco-romaine of Louis Robert, an indictment of the methods of Sundwall and invitation to rigorous philology, a turning point. For survivals from the second millennium, P.H.J. Houwink ten Cate, E. Laroche and L. Zgusta brought decisive complements. In the Roman period there occurs a ‘koinéfication’ of the name-stock of Asia Minor, with an overwhelming majority of Greek names and strong percentage of Latin. The only differences from region to region are the degree of resistance and the content of the indigenous element. Stress is laid on the need for a sociological and anthropological approach, which situates the name in society and so explains its origin and functioning: Hellenistic Pamphylia is taken as an example.

The most significant work written so far about Greek onomastics in Asia Minor (Louis Robert’s Noms indigènes de l’Asie Mineure) mainly demonstrates the excessively ‘indigenist’ interpretation of personal names. The question of non-Greek names has dominated studies in this field. The aim of this paper is to explain the use and the nature of Greek simple names in Ionia. The first part deals with general questions, such as the origin of simple names and the role of baby-talk in their formation, their relationship with nicknames and second names, their evolution and how they can contribute to a better knowledge of Ionic colloquial language. The second part is a commentary on thirty-nine typical or significant Ionic names: Akkês, Alpalê, Bábōn, Bállaros, Bastâs, Bátalos, Bátion, Baûs, Billâs, Bisthâs, Bíttaros, Bóa, Botâs, Boutalînos, Boutâs, Gellías, Grŷttos, Kíllos, Kírōn, Kollybâs, Konníōn, Kôkos, Kōlōtēs, Minníōn, Mitýlos, Myschês, Mytâs, Nánnichos, Nóssos, Pátaikos, Pósthōn, Sálaros, Sannâs, Smórdos, Sýrphax, Phíttalos, Phórys, Chorēgíōn, Psychâs.

In underground coal mines, miners face the hazard of being struck or pinned by a piece of mobile mining machinery. Proximity detection systems have been developed and are used by the industry to protect miners around these machines by detecting the presence of the miners and automatically issuing warnings or disabling machine motion when a miner is in potentially dangerous proximity. These systems were originally developed for continuous mining machines, slow-moving machines that move on bulldozer-style tracks, and are now mandated by the Mine Safety and Health Administration (MSHA) to be used on continuous mining machines. These systems are now being adapted to other underground vehicles, such as shuttle cars, scoops, and battery haulers — vehicles that move on rubber tires at much higher speeds. There are concerns that the detection range of these systems may not provide for an adequate stopping distance on these faster moving machines. To address these concerns, researchers have developed a dynamic modeling system to determine the stopping distance of mobile underground coal equipment. This model can be used in conjunction with worker escapability data and/or information on interaction with other vehicles to provide insight into whether or not proximity detection systems will be adequate for the underground mining workplace. This paper details the background, development, and operation of the resulting application software, focusing on the utility of the graphical user interface to visualize the generated data. The refined data developed by this process can then be utilized by mine operators and proximity detection system manufacturers to more accurately determine the detection range needed to provide effective protection for miners working in an underground mining environment.

A self-propelled miner for deep-seabed manganese nodules was developed for the purpose of evaluations of mining performance and viability for scale-up. The test miner crawls on the seafloor by two tracks and separates the nodules from seafloor by hybrid pick-up device. The weight and size are 10tons in air (5tons in water) and 5m(L)×4m(W)×3m(H), respectively. It is operated electro-hydraulically in real-time via umbilical cable. Software’s for real-time remote control, monitoring and database systems were developed as well. Shallow water tests of the test miner were performed in 100m water depth of an inshore condition site. Glass beads (d = 19mm, m = 10g/ea) were made for artificial nodules instead of real nodules. Non DP barge (W = 19m, L = 51m) was used as surface unit. The sea tests showed that the fundamental performance of the test miner is confirmed and at the same time functional modification and improvement in sensing and measurement system are addressed. This paper describes about the development methods of the test miner and lessons from the sea tests.

Abstract Federal regulations require the installation of refuge alternatives (RAs) in underground coal mines to ensure miners’ survivability after a fire or an explosion where escape is impractical or even impossible. Both fires and explosions can generate dangerous or even lethal levels of carbon monoxide (CO) in a mine. As part of their function, RAs must be able to isolate miners from a CO-contaminated mine environment and to purge any CO that might enter the RA as miners enter it. In 2018, researchers from the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) conducted purging research in a built-in-place (BIP) RA with a borehole air supply by testing 12 different mixing ventilation system configurations (MVSCs). Recently, NIOSH researchers evaluated the use of a thermal displacement ventilation system configuration (TDVSC) to purge a 60-person BIP RA using a borehole air supply. As in previous research, NIOSH researchers tested the TDVSC with the flow rates of 750 SCFM and then 1,000 SCFM. For each of the flow rates, the results showed that the average purge time for the more expensive TDVSC is within two minutes of the average purge times of previously tested MVSCs. Manufacturers can use this information to not only pursue 30 CFR Part 7 approval from the Mine Safety and Health Administration (MSHA), but also to determine the most practical method to purge contaminants inside RAs.

In 2008, the Mine Safety and Health Administration (MSHA) published a final rule on Refuge Alternatives (RAs) for Underground Coal Mines [1]. The rule states that RAs should be “capable of sustaining trapped miners for 96 hours” and that RAs “can also be used to facilitate escape by sustaining trapped miners until they receive communications regarding escape options.” One of the main concerns with the use of RAs is heat and humidity buildup inside of them. The accumulation of heat and humidity could result in miners suffering heat stress or even death. MSHA regulations require that the apparent temperature in an occupied RA must not exceed 95°F. To investigate the thermal issues for occupied RAs, the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) conducted several tests on mobile RAs. In this paper, the test setup on a 6-person metal-type RA is described and the test results are presented. The test results show that the average measured air temperature within the RA increased by 9.0°C (16°F) and the relative humidity (RH) approached 91 %RH at the end of the 96-hour test. The test results were also compared to predictions from a thermal simulation model of the tested RA. The model predicted the average air temperature inside the RA at the end of 96 hours to within 0.4°C (0.8°F) of the average measured air temperature. Furthermore, two sets of test data with different heat inputs were used to cross-check the model validity.

In the case of variable amplitude loading, fatigue damage accumulation theory is closely related to loading histories, such as load sequences, load interactions, and so on. Due to the lack of load histories, there may be a large deviation with the reality for linear damage rule (Miner rule). Although many non-linear fatigue damage accumulation models can deal with the effect of load sequences, load interaction effect cannot be ignored and it plays an important role in damage accumulation behavior. This paper describes the damage evolution behavior based on nonlinear damage rule under variable amplitude loading. A new method to describe the load interaction effects is proposed, it is assumed that the load ratio between adjacent stress levels is used to present this phenomenon. Thereafter, the method is introduced to a non-linear damage model, and a modified model is developed to predict the residual lifetime. Four categories of experimental data sets from literatures are employed to investigate the validity of the proposed model. The results indicate that the modified model shows a good agreement between experimental data and theoretical results. It is also found that the modified model demonstrates an improvement in prediction accuracy over the primary model and Miner rule. Furthermore, the modified model can be easily implemented with the use of Wöhler curve only.

Noise-induced hearing loss (NIHL) is the second most prevalent illness in the mining industry. According to a study conducted by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), in which over 42,000 audiograms from metal/nonmetal miners were analyzed, approximately 70% of miners have hearing impairment as compared to 9% of non-occupationally noise-exposed workers. One of the machines used extensively in metal/nonmetal mines responsible for high noise exposure levels of its operators is the jumbo drill, used to drill holes at the mines for blasting purposes. In this context, NIOSH is conducting research to develop engineering noise controls for jumbo drills that would reduce the prevalence of hearing loss among operators of this equipment. The first step of the noise control development process consists of identifying and ranking dominant noise sources present during operation of the jumbo drill. To this end, a noise study was conducted at NIOSH’s laboratories in which a microphone phased array system was used to identify dominant noise sources, and the transfer path analysis method was used to rank these sources based on their contribution to the operator location. Results showed that the drill string and the drilling mechanism — known as the drifter — are the dominant sound-radiating components in the operation of the jumbo drill.

Jackleg drills have proven to be a problem when it comes to overexposures to noise for coal miners as well as metal/nonmetal miners. These pneumatic drills are used to drill holes for roof bolting or blast holes in developmental and stoper mining. They are used when mining vertically or steeply inclined deposits. The “Leg” is a heavy metal support which allows the driller to keep the rig steady when collaring the hole as well as keeping it steady while drilling into the hard rock. Since drilling is done basically by hand, the operator remains in close proximity to the noise associated with the pneumatic hammer. Up until now, little has been done with the exception of Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) and retrofit mufflers to achieve compliance with the noise standards stated in Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) Title 30, part 62 for the drills of the type. Just recently an anthracite coal mining company, having noise problems associated with their jackleg drills, purchased a “Remote In-Stope Drill Rig” from a manufacturer in South Africa. A noise study was conducted by the Mine Safety & Health Administration (MSHA) and the cooperative mining company to determine the effectiveness of the remote control jackleg drill in reducing the operator’s overall noise exposure. The baseline test was conducted on the original jackleg drill. Once the new remote unit was received, it was tested as received from the manufacturer with their hammer and again with the company’s original hammer retrofitted to the drill rig. The company also made modifications to the 8 ft. hose extending it to 20 ft. to allow operation further from the noise source. The study was conducted to determine the effectiveness of the remote control unit in reducing not only the sound level, but also the overall noise dose. The unit was found to not only reduce the operator’s overall noise exposure when used with either hammer, but allowed drilling to be conducted from a location under permanently supported roof with no vibration on the operator’s hands.

Prolonged exposure of hand to vibration causes vascular, neurological and musculoskeletal abnormalities, which are collectively known as hand-arm vibration syndrome (HAVS). A significant number of construction workers, miners and even dentists are affected by HAVS. The precise mechanism or pathogenesis of the syndrome is still not clearly understood. Accurate analysis of hand-arm vibration response is very difficult due to the complexity of the hand-arm structure such as redundancy of the musculo-tendon unit, active participation from central nervous system, inherent non-linearity and heavy damping effect. Various types of lumped parameter models have been developed, typically by matching response characteristics of the model with the measurement. Not being based on the actual physics of the hand-arm, such a model has limited applications such as qualitative, relative analysis of the hand-arm response. A new lumped parameter model is developed in this work retaining as much actual kinematic characteristics of the hand and arm system as possible. The model includes descriptions of relevant musculo-tendon systems and the effect of the gripping force to enable calculation of the forces transmitted through the musculo-tendon system and joints.

Abstract The stress-life (S-N) method along with the Palmgren-Miner cumulative damage theory is the simplest and the most commonly used fatigue life prediction technique. Its main advantage is that the material properties needed are easy to collect and life calculation is simple. However under many variable amplitude loading conditions, life predictions have been found to be unreliable. Various modifications have been proposed to the Palmgren-Miner theory, but they have not lead to more reliable life predictions. In this paper, a two-stage cumulative damage model will be developed and validated. This model divides fatigue life into two phases — a crack initiation phase and a crack propagation phase. It will be shown that the proposed method results in greatly improved life prediction capabilities. Also, the proposed method retains the simplicity of the S-N based approach in that the material data is still relatively simple to generate and the calculations are straightforward.

Possible alternative fatigue formulations to predict lifetime under variable-amplitude loading are investigated. Test results of WISPER and WISPERX variable-amplitude tests on a material representative for wind turbine rotor blades are used. All fatigue calculations are performed using Rainflow counting of the WISPER(X) load histories and employing the Miner summation. The formulation of the SN-curve and the constant-life diagram are varied. Commonly, a log-log SN-curve is used in combination with a linear Goodman constant-life relation. However, in previous work, it was found that these formulations overestimate lifetime of specimens subjected to the variable-amplitude WISPER and WISPERX load histories. This previous work suggested that the SN-formulation be changed and also used an alternative constant-life formulation with parallel lines. These formulations and variations on them are investigated. Also, constant-amplitude data for R = 0.1 are included to construct an alternative constant-life diagram. Including R = 0.1 constant-amplitude data in the lifetime predictions for WISPER(X) seems to improve the accuracy of the calculation. The alternative constant-life formulation might remove the non-conservatism from the lifetime prediction and account for the difference in lifetime between WISPER and WISPERX.