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Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Ocean waves'

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Published: 4 June 2021

Last updated: 9 June 2025

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1

Button, Peter. "Models for ocean waves." Master's thesis, University of Cape Town, 1988. http://hdl.handle.net/11427/14299.

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Includes bibliography.<br>Ocean waves represent an important design factor in many coastal engineering applications. Although extreme wave height is usually considered the single most important of these factors there are other important aspects that require consideration. These include the probability distribution of wave heights, the seasonal variation and the persistence, or duration, of calm and storm periods. If one is primarily interested in extreme wave height then it is possible to restrict one's attention to events which are sufficiently separated in time to be effectively independently (and possibly even identically) distributed. However the independence assumption is not tenable for the description of many other aspects of wave height behaviour, such as the persistence of calm periods. For this one has to take account of the serial correlation structure of observed wave heights, the seasonal behaviour of the important statistics, such as mean and standard deviation, and in fact the entire seasonal probability distribution of wave heights. In other words the observations have to be regarded as a time series.

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2

Suoja, Nicole Marie. "Development of a directional wave gage for short sea waves." Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1996. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/38163.

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3

Melo, Jose Luis Branco Seabra de. "Nonlinear parametric wave model compared with field data." Monterey, Calif. : Naval Postgraduate School, 1985. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/api/volumes/oclc/57738811.html.

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4

Walker, Daniel Anthony Guy. "Interaction of extreme ocean waves with offshore structures." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2006. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:6858dc08-1bd4-4195-8893-1af98d5e68e3.

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With most of the world's untouched oil and gas resources offshore and the possibility that hurricanes are becoming more frequent and more intense, the risks associated with offshore oil and gas production are increasing. Therefore, there is an urgent need to improve current understanding of extreme ocean waves and their interaction with structures. This thesis is concerned with the modelling of extreme ocean waves and their diffraction by offshore structures, with the ultimate aim of proposing improved tools for guiding airgap design. The feasibility of using linear and second order diffraction solutions with a suitable incident wave field to predict extreme green water levels beneath multi-column structures is investigated. Such tools, when fully validated, could replace the need to carry out model tests during preliminary design. When contemplating airgap design it is crucially important that consideration is given to the largest waves in a sea state, the so-called freak or rogue waves. This thesis studies the nature of one specific freak wave for which field data is available, namely the Draupner New Year wave. Unique features of this wave are identified, distinguishing it from a typical large wave, and an estimate of the probability of occurrence of the wave is given. Furthermore, a design wave, called NewWave, is proposed as a good model for large ocean waves and is validated against field and experimental data. The diffraction of regular waves and NewWaves by a number of structural configurations is studied. In order to assess the validity of using diffraction solutions for the purposes of airgap design, comparisons are made with measured wave data from a programme of wave tank experiments. Wave data for a real platform configuration are examined to highlight the key issues complicating the validation of diffraction based design tools for real structures. The ability of diffraction theory to reproduce real wave measurements is discussed. The phenomenon of near-trapping is also investigated, allowing guidelines for airgap design to be established.

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5

Van, der Westhuysen A. J. "The application of the numerical wind wave model SWAN to a selected field case on the South African coast." Thesis, Link to the online version, 2002. http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/3632.

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6

Xue, Ming 1967. "Three-dimensional fully-nonlinear simulations of waves and wave body interactions." Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1997. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/10216.

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7

Proehl, Jeffrey A. "Equatorial wave-mean flow interaction : the long Rossby waves /." Thesis, Connect to this title online; UW restricted, 1988. http://hdl.handle.net/1773/10960.

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8

Murphy, Darryl Guy. "Rossby waves in the Southern Ocean." Thesis, University of Exeter, 1991. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.303178.

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9

Kukulka, Tobias. "The effect of breaking waves on a coupled model of wind and ocean surface waves." View online ; access limited to URI, 2006. http://0-digitalcommons.uri.edu.helin.uri.edu/dissertations/AAI3248233.

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10

Scott, Nicholas Vicente. "Observations of the wind-wave spectrum and steep wave statistics in open ocean waters." View online ; access limited to URI, 2003. http://0-wwwlib.umi.com.helin.uri.edu/dissertations/dlnow/3103724.

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11

Faulkner, Jay Allen. "Beauty waves: an artistic representation of ocean waves using Bezier curves." Texas A&M University, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/1969.1/4682.

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In this thesis, we present a method for computing an artistic representation of ocean waves using Bezier curves. Wave forms are loosely based on procedural wave models and are designed to emulate those found in both art and nature. The wave forms are generated using a slice method which is user defined by structured input, thus providing the artist with full control over crest shape and placement. Wave propagation is obtained by interpolating between defined crest shapes and positions. We also present a method for computing a stylized representation of breaking crests in shallow water. Artists may use our model to create many interesting wave forms, including basic sinusoidal waves and waves with breaking crests that have a rotation that is cyclical in time. The major drawbacks to our solution are that data entry can be tedious and it can be difficult to produce waves that animate with a natural appearance.

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12

Cohen, Jennifer Esther. "Theory of turbulent wind over fast and slow waves." Thesis, University of Cambridge, 1997. https://www.repository.cam.ac.uk/handle/1810/283717.

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13

Xiradakis, Pavlos. "The refractive effects of laser propagation through the ocean and within the ocean." Thesis, Monterey, California : Naval Postgraduate School, 2009. http://edocs.nps.edu/npspubs/scholarly/theses/2009/Dec/09Dec%5FXiradakis.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Physics)--Naval Postgraduate School, December 2009.<br>Thesis Advisor(s): Walters, Donald. Second Reader: Borden, Brett. "December 2009." Description based on title screen as viewed on January 27, 2010. Author(s) subject terms: Ocean waves, Laser Scattering, Absorption, Refraction. Includes bibliographical references (p. 55). Also available in print.

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14

Sweeny, Margaret E. "Breaking wave turbulence in the surf zone." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2005. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion/05Jun%5FSweeny.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Applied Science (Physical Oceanography))--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2005.<br>Thesis Advisor(s): Timothy P. Stanton. Includes bibliographical references (p. 51). Also available online.

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15

Qin, Wenting. "Application of the spectral wave model SWAN in Delaware Bay." Access to citation, abstract and download form provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company; downloadable PDF file 4.68 Mb., 130 p, 2005. http://proquest.umi.com/pqdlink?did=1037889341&Fmt=7&clientId=8331&RQT=309&VName=PQD.

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16

趙孔儒 and Hung-yu Chiu. "Statistical analysis of waves at Waglan Island, Hong Kong." Thesis, The University of Hong Kong (Pokfulam, Hong Kong), 1991. http://hub.hku.hk/bib/B31976529.

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17

Ray, Timothy Allen. "Wave propagation over complex bathymetry." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2003. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion-image/03Jun%5FRay.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2003.<br>Thesis advisor(s): Thomas H.C. Herbers, Edward B. Thornton. Includes bibliographical references (p. 37). Also available online.

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18

Dixon, Kyle Richard. "Ocean Waves: nine preludes for solo piano." OpenSIUC, 2015. https://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/theses/1748.

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Ocean Waves: Nine Preludes for Solo Piano is a collection of preludes that sets ocean waves and sea currents for piano. The preludes range from being minimal and sparse in content, to being melodic and heavy in material. Waves of notes are used to push in and out of new musical ideas throughout the preludes. The work experiments with note density, motivic growth, and multiple pitch centers and harmonic structures all while centering around the musical color of each prelude.

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19

Morris-Thomas, Michael. "An investigation into wave run-up on vertical surface piercing cylinders in monochromatic waves." University of Western Australia. School of Oil and Gas Engineering, 2003. http://theses.library.uwa.edu.au/adt-WU2004.0010.

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[Formulae and special characters can only be approximated here. Please see the pdf version of the abstract for an accurate reproduction.] Wave run-up is the vertical uprush of water when an incident wave impinges on a free- surface penetrating body. For large volume offshore structures the wave run-up on the weather side of the supporting columns is particularly important for air-gap design and ultimately the avoidance of pressure impulse loads on the underside of the deck structure. This investigation focuses on the limitations of conventional wave diffraction theory, where the free-surface boundary condition is treated by a Stokes expansion, in predicting the harmonic components of the wave run-up, and the presentation of a simplified procedure for the prediction of wave run-up. The wave run-up is studied on fixed vertical cylinders in plane progressive waves. These progressive waves are of a form suitable for description by Stokes' wave theory whereby the typical energy content of a wave train consists of one fundamental harmonic and corresponding phase locked Fourier components. The choice of monochromatic waves is indicative of ocean environments for large volume structures in the diffraction regime where the assumption of potential flow theory is applicable, or more formally A/a < Ο(1) (A and a being the wave amplitude and cylinder radius respectively). One of the unique aspects of this work is the investigation of column geometry effects - in terms of square cylinders with rounded edges - on the wave run-up. The rounded edges of each cylinder are described by the dimensionless parameter rc/a which denotes the ratio of edge corner radius to half-width of a typical column with longitudinal axis perpendicular to the quiescent free-surface. An experimental campaign was undertaken where the wave run-up on a fixed column in plane progressive waves was measured with wire probes located close to the cylinder. Based on an appropriate dimensional analysis, the wave environment was represented by a parametric variation of the scattering parameter ka and wave steepness kA (where k denotes the wave number). The effect of column geometry was investigated by varying the edge corner radius ratio within the domain 0 <=rc/a <= 1, where the upper and lower bounds correspond to a circular and square shaped cylinder respectively. The water depth is assumed infinite so that the wave run-up caused purely by wave-structure interaction is examined without the additional influence of a non-decaying horizontal fluid velocity and finite depth effects on wave dispersion. The zero-, first-, second- and third-harmonics of the wave run-up are examined to determine the importance of each with regard to local wave diffraction and incident wave non-linearities. The modulus and phase of these harmonics are compared to corresponding theoretical predictions from conventional diffraction theory to second-order in wave steepness. As a result, a basis is formed for the applicability of a Stokes expansion to the free-surface boundary condition of the diffraction problem, and its limitations in terms of local wave scattering and incident wave non-linearities. An analytical approach is pursued and solved in the long wavelength regime for the interaction of a plane progressive wave with a circular cylinder in an ideal fluid. The classical Stokesian assumption of infinitesimal wave amplitude is invoked to treat the free-surface boundary condition along with an unconventional requirement that the cylinder width is assumed much smaller than the incident wavelength. This additional assumption is justified because critical wavelengths for wave run-up on a fixed cylinder are typically much larger in magnitude than the cylinder's width. In the solution, two coupled perturbation schemes, incorporating a classical Stokes expansion and cylinder slenderness expansion, are invoked and the boundary value problem solved to third-order. The formulation of the diffraction problem in this manner allows for third-harmonic diffraction effects and higher-order effects operating at the first-harmonic to be found. In general, the complete wave run-up is not well accounted for by a second-order Stokes expansion of the free-surface boundary condition and wave elevation. This is however, dependent upon the coupling of ka and kA. In particular, whilst the modulus and phase of the second-harmonic are moderately predicted, the mean set-up is not well predicted by a second-order Stokes expansion scheme. This is thought to be caused by higher than second-order non-linear effects since experimental evidence has revealed higher-order diffraction effects operating at the first-harmonic in waves of moderate to large steepness when k < < 1. These higher-order effects, operating at the first-harmonic, can be partially accounted for by the proposed long wavelength formulation. For small ka and large kA, subsequent comparisons with measured results do indeed provide a better agreement than the classical linear diffraction solution of Havelock (1940). To account for the complete wave run-up, a unique approach has been adopted where a correction is applied to a first-harmonic analytical solution. The remaining non-linear portion is accounted for by two methods. The first method is based on regression analysis in terms of ka and kA and provides an additive correction to the first-harmonic solution. The second method involves an amplification correction of the first-harmonic. This utilises Bernoulli's equation applied at the mean free-surface position where the constant of proportionality is empirically determined and is inversely proportional to ka. The experimental and numerical results suggest that the wave run-up increases as rc/a--› 0, however this is most significant for short waves and long waves of large steepness. Of the harmonic components, experimental evidence suggests that the effect of a variation in rc/a on the wave run-up is particularly significant for the first-harmonic only. Furthermore, the corner radius effect on the first-harmonic wave run-up is well predicted by numerical calculations using the boundary element method. Given this, the proposed simplified wave run-up model includes an additional geometry correction which accounts for rc/a to first-order in local wave diffraction. From a practical view point, it is the simplified model that is most useful for platform designers to predict the wave run-up on a surface piercing column. It is computationally inexpensive and the comparison of this model with measured results has proved more promising than previously proposed schemes.

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20

Whitford, Dennis James. "Wind and wave forcing of longshore currents across a barred beach." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Naval Postgraduate School, 1988. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/api/volumes/oclc/52803820.html.

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21

Yu, Xuri. "Dynamics of seasonal and interannual variability in the equatorial Pacific." Thesis, Connect to this title online; UW restricted, 1998. http://hdl.handle.net/1773/11065.

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22

Ölmez, Hasan Sait. "Numerical evaluation of nonlinear energy transfer to short gravity waves in the presence of long waves." Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1991. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/13488.

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23

Okon, John A. "Mesoscale forcing on ocean waves during Gulf Stream North Wall events." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2003. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion-image/03Mar%5FOkon.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Meteorology and Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, March 2003.<br>Thesis advisor(s): Wendell A. Nuss, David S. Brown. Includes bibliographical references (p. 103). Also available online.

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24

Abdelrahman, Saad M. M. "Shore wave modulation due to infragravity waves in the nearshore zone, with applications." Monterey, Calif. : Naval Postgraduate School, 1986. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/api/volumes/oclc/57743239.html.

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25

Rossouw, J. "Design waves for the South African coastline /." Link to the online version, 1989. http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/3634.

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26

Kochanski, Adam. "On the practical applications of atmosphere-ocean and atmosphere-wave coupling in mesoscale numerical modeling." abstract and full text PDF (UNR users only), 2008. http://0-gateway.proquest.com.innopac.library.unr.edu/openurl?url_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:dissertation&res_dat=xri:pqdiss&rft_dat=xri:pqdiss:3316369.

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27

Chen, Shuiming. "Vertical structure of mesoscale ocean currents in the Indian Ocean observation, numerical modeling and theory /." Thesis, University of Hawaii at Manoa, 2003. http://proquest.umi.com/pqdweb?index=0&did=765960941&SrchMode=2&sid=8&Fmt=2&VInst=PROD&VType=PQD&RQT=309&VName=PQD&TS=1209408688&clientId=23440.

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28

Orszaghova, Jana. "Solitary waves and wave groups at the shore." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2011. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:5b168bdc-4956-4152-a303-b23a6067bf42.

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A significant proportion of the world's population and physical assets are located in low lying coastal zones. Accurate prediction of wave induced run-up and overtopping of sea defences are important in defining the extent and severity of wave action, and in assessing risk to people and property from severe storms and tsunamis. This thesis describes a one-dimensional numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations of Madsen and Sorensen (1992) and the non-linear shallow water equations. The model is suitable for simulating propagation of weakly non-linear and weakly dispersive waves from intermediate to zero depth, such that any inundation and/or overtopping caused by the incoming waves is also calculated as part of the simulation. Wave breaking is approximated by locally switching to the non-linear shallow water equations, which can model broken waves as bores. A piston paddle wavemaker is incorporated into the model for complete reproduction of laboratory experiments. A domain mapping technique is used in the vicinity of the paddle to transform a time-varying domain into a fixed domain, so that the governing equations can be more readily solved. First, various aspects of the numerical model are verified against known analytical and newly derived semi-analytical solutions. The complete model is then validated with laboratory measurements of run-up and overtopping involving solitary waves. NewWave focused wave groups, which give the expected shape of extreme wave events in a linear random sea, are used for further validation. Simulations of experiments of wave group run-up on a plane beach yield very good agreement with the measured run-up distances and free surface time series. Wave-by-wave overtopping induced by focused wave groups is also successfully simulated with the model, with satisfactory agreement between the experimental and the predicted overtopping volumes. Repeated simulations, now driven by second order paddle displacement signals, give insight into second order error waves spuriously generated by using paddle signals derived from linear theory. Separation of harmonics reveals that the long error wave is significantly affecting the wave group shape and leading to enhanced runu-up distances and overtopping volumes. An extensive parameter study is carried out using the numerical model investigating the influence on wave group run-up of linear wave amplitude at focus, linear focus location, and wave group phase at focus. For a given amplitude, both the phase and the focus location significantly affect the wave group run-up. It is also found that the peak optimised run-up increases with the wave amplitude, but wave breaking becomes an inhibiting factor for larger waves. This methodology is proposed for extreme storm wave induced run-up analysis.

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29

Andrew, Rex Kelley. "Broadband acoustical superresolution imaging of breaking ocean waves." Thesis, National Library of Canada = Bibliothèque nationale du Canada, 1997. http://www.collectionscanada.ca/obj/s4/f2/dsk2/ftp02/NQ32702.pdf.

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30

FOREMAN, ROGER WILLIAM. "THERE IS A SONG IN THE OCEAN WAVES." Thesis, The University of Arizona, 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/190447.

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31

Lerczak, James A. "Internal waves on the southern California shelf /." Diss., Connect to a 24 p. preview or request complete full text in PDF format. Access restricted to UC campuses, 2000. http://wwwlib.umi.com/cr/ucsd/fullcit?p3035419.

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32

Straub, David Nicholas. "Some effects of large scale topography in a baroclinic ocean /." Thesis, Connect to this title online; UW restricted, 1990. http://hdl.handle.net/1773/11003.

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33

Wallace, Stephanie. "The relationship between ocean wave statistics and satellite measurements." Thesis, The University of Sydney, 1993. https://hdl.handle.net/2123/26654.

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Wave statistics are the basis of offshore and coastal designs. Engineers rely on these parameters to estimate extreme waveheights which are the cause of structural damage and shipping disasters. Satellites are the tools of the future, particularly in the study of the oceans, as no other instruments are capable of providing extensive continuous global coverage over such a vast region. The predominant aim of this thesis is to analyse temporal wave statistics and to determine if these measurements are applicable to spatial waveheight measurements made from satellite altimeters. This was approached by examining waveheight measurements using several statistical properties of samples over both time and space. Time series recordings of waveheights were made with sonic wave gauges at two platforms in Bass Strait, together with the permanent Weather Station system. The variability of waveheights over both time and space was examined using the three instruments, and was found to demonstrate significant waveheight (HS) fluctuations despite relatively steady conditions. Probability distributions, which are the foremost method for describing the sea surface, were then applied to the temporal waveheight files to see which were the most suitable for maxima and waveheight prediction. Temporal correlations were made from continuous waveheight measurements obtained from the Weather Station and its predecessor instrument, the Baylor Wave Gauge. These curves were then compared with spatial correlations drawn from the GEOSAT satellite Hs values, and the two statistics were found to be in good agreement. Groups of high waves were examined in the temporal waveheight files using the envelope theory. The average number of waves per group were found to vary considerably in a 1024 second file, and a wave age dependency was evident. The propagation of the Wave groups was then considered to see if a similar measurement would be found in the spatial instantaneous footprint of the altimeter. In order to directly compare temporally and spatially derived ocean parameters (other than HS), it is necessary to know how many waves are contained in the altimeter footprint. This can be estimated if the crestlength and wavelength are known. Therefore the relationship between these two parameters and wave age (which may also affect crestlength) were examined, and crestlength was found to vary under different conditions and seas of different ages.

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34

Rapp, Ronald James. "Laboratory measurements of deep water breaking waves." Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 1986. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/33805.

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Thesis (Ph. D.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Ocean Engineering, 1986.<br>MICROFICHE COPY AVAILABLE IN ARCHIVES AND ENGINEERING.<br>Bibliography: leaves 255-260.<br>by Ronald James Rapp.<br>Ph.D.

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35

Coutts-Smith, Aaron J. "The significance of mega-rips along an embayed coast." Phd thesis, School of Geosciences, 2004. http://hdl.handle.net/2123/6082.

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36

Coll, Florit Guillermo. "Ocean surface wave transformation over a sandy sea bed." Thesis, Monterey, California : Naval Postgraduate School, 2009. http://edocs.nps.edu/npspubs/scholarly/theses/2009/Sep/09Sep%5FColl.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Meteorology and Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, September 2009.<br>Thesis Advisor(s): Herbers, Thomas H.C. "September 2009." Description based on title screen as viewed on November 5, 2009. Author(s) subject terms: Ocean waves, energy spectrum, SWAN, numerical prediction models, refraction. Includes bibliographical references (p. 57-59). Also available in print.

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Waters, Rafael. "Energy from Ocean Waves : Full Scale Experimental Verification of a Wave Energy Converter." Doctoral thesis, Uppsala universitet, Elektricitetslära, 2008. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:uu:diva-9404.

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A wave energy converter has been constructed and its function and operational characteristics have been thoroughly investigated and published. The wave energy converter was installed in March of 2006 approximately two kilometers off the Swedish west coast in the proximity of the town Lysekil. Since then the converter has been submerged at the research site for over two and a half years and in operation during three time periods for a total of 12 months, the latest being during five months of 2008. Throughout this time the generated electricity has been transmitted to shore and operational data has been recorded. The wave energy converter and its connected electrical system has been continually upgraded and each of the three operational periods have investigated more advanced stages in the progression toward grid connection. The wave energy system has faced the challenges of the ocean and initial results and insights have been reached, most important being that the overall wave energy concept has been verified. Experiments have shown that slowly varying power generation from ocean waves is possible. Apart from the wave energy converter, three shorter studies have been performed. A sensor was designed for measuring the air gap width of the linear generator used in the wave energy converter. The sensor consists of an etched coil, a search coil, that functions passively through induction. Theory and experiment showed good agreement. The Swedish west coast wave climate has been studied in detail. The study used eight years of wave data from 13 sites in the Skagerrak and Kattegatt, and data from a wave measurement buoy located at the wave energy research site. The study resulted in scatter diagrams, hundred year extreme wave estimations, and a mapping of the energy flux in the area. The average energy flux was found to be approximately 5.2 kW/m in the offshore Skagerrak, 2.8 kW/m in the near shore Skagerrak, and 2.4 kW/m in the Kattegat. A method for evaluating renewable energy technologies in terms of economy and engineering solutions has been investigated. The match between the technologies and the fundamental physics of renewable energy sources can be given in terms of the technology’s utilization. It is argued that engineers should strive for a high utilization if competitive technologies are to be developed.

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38

Noad, Imogen Frances. "Absorbing power from ocean waves : a mathematical approach to modelling wave energy converters." Thesis, University of Bristol, 2018. https://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.752773.

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39

Jessup, Andrew Thomas. "Detection and characterization of deep water wave breaking using moderate incidence angle microwave backscatter from the sea surface." Online version, 1990. http://hdl.handle.net/1912/3149.

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40

Trainor, Lincoln Thomas. "Field observations and SWAN model predictions of wave evolution in a muddy coastal environment." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Naval Postgraduate School, 2009. http://edocs.nps.edu/npspubs/scholarly/theses/2009/Jun/09Jun%5FTrainor.pdf.

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Thesis (M.S. in Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2009.<br>Thesis Advisor(s): Herbers, Thomas H. C. ; Janssen, Tim T. "June 2009." Description based on title screen as viewed on July 14, 2009. Author(s) subject terms: ocean waves, continental shelf, mud, littoral, SWAN. Includes bibliographical references (p. 69-71). Also available in print.

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41

Cutshaw, Charles Q. "Verification of a 1-dimensional surf prediction model for steep beach conditions." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 2002. http://library.nps.navy.mil/uhtbin/hyperion-image/02Jun%5FCutshaw.pdf.

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42

Liu, James Cheng. "Comparison of measured and transformed directional wave spectra using a linear refraction model." Thesis, Monterey, California : Naval Postgraduate School, 1990. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA247157.

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Thesis (M.S. in Meteorology)--Naval Postgraduate School, December 1990.<br>Thesis Advisor(s): Thornton, Edward B. Second Reader: Williams, Roger T. "December 1990." Description based on title screen as viewed on March 31, 2010. DTIC Identifier(s): Linear Refraction Model. Author(s) subject terms: Ocean Waves, Directional Spectra, Wave Refraction. Includes bibliographical references (p. 82-83). Also available in print.

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43

Ballard, Valerie Jean. "Experiments with a high frequency laser slope meter." Thesis, University of Southampton, 2001. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.367969.

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McAllister, Mark Laing. "Analysis of laboratory and field measurements of directionally spread nonlinear ocean waves." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/28762.

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Surface gravity waves exist in the oceans as multi-directional nonlinear phenomena. Understanding how these two properties interact is intrinsically important in itself. Furthermore, an understanding of this relationship may be used to gain insight into other oceanic phenomena. This thesis first describes an experimental investigation into the relationship between directionality and non-linearity (Part I). This relationship was then used as a tool to estimate the directional spreading of field data (Part II). Experiments have been conducted in which directionally spread focused wave groups were created in a wave tank. The relationship between the degree of directional spreading and the second-order bound harmonics of the wave groups was examined, in particular the formation of a `set-up'. These measurements were then compared to predictions from second-order theories, finding good agreement. The two-dimensional structure of the bound waves was explored giving new insight into the underlying physics. Experiments were then carried out for directionally spread crossing wave groups. It is believed that the crossing of two sufficiently separated wave groups may be the cause of an anomalous set-up in the second-order bound waves observed for some extreme and potentially freak waves. This set-up is reproduced experimentally. Again, the results of these test agreed very well when compared to second-order theory. The insight gained from the foregoing experiments was then utilised in the analysis of field data. A method, which requires only a single measurement to estimate the observed degree of directional spreading, was applied to a large dataset of field measurements from the North Alwyn platform in the North Sea. This method was then compared to conventional approaches, which require multiple concurrent measurements. The method that requires only a single measurement was shown to be effective, and presents a promising approach to gaining additional insight about the directional spreading of point observations.

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Sarap, Nick A. "Propagation speeds of ocean surface waves in shallow water." Thesis, Monterey, Calif. : Springfield, Va. : Naval Postgraduate School ; Available from National Technical Information Service, 1999. http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA361815.

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Thesis (M.S. in Physical Oceanography) Naval Postgraduate School, March 1999.<br>Thesis advisor(S): T.H.C. Herbers. "March 1999". Includes bibliographical references (p. 39-40). Also available online.

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Yao, Yao. "Boussinesq-type modelling of gently shoaling extreme ocean waves." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2007. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.443009.

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Conrad, Jeffrey G. "Propagation of vertically polarized waves over rough ocean surfaces." Thesis, Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School, 1997. http://hdl.handle.net/10945/8867.

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Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited<br>The problem of propagation of vertically polarized radiowaves in an inhomogeneous atmosphere and over rough ocean surfaces is solved using the parabolic equation method. The solution of the parabolic equation is accomplished through the use of the Fourier split-step algorithm. Formulation of the equations is based upon (1) recognizing that the Fourier kernels of the transform equations in the split step algorithm represent planes waves and (2) compensating for the effects of rough ocean surfaces by using a rough surface reduction factor directly in the spectral domain. To accomplish this a redefinition of the Fourier transform pair is done to ensure mathematical consistency. The formulation also incorporates the first and second derivatives of the refractivity index to accommodate steep gradients in the refractivity profile. Hanning windows are used in both the spatial and wavenumber domains to contain computational requirements. The effects on propagation by varying parameters such as wave heights, computational domain ceilings, frequency and step size are investigated

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Haley, Joseph. "Fluid forcing in the crests of large ocean waves." Thesis, Imperial College London, 2015. http://hdl.handle.net/10044/1/60082.

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A sequence of new experimental investigations is presented that addresses the modelling of the wave loads within the crests of limiting and breaking waves. This study identifies important sources of uncertainty within wave loading models that are applied to the steepest wave conditions. By examining the origins of this uncertainty, existing loading models are assessed and improvements proposed. In particular, the local wave impact loads arising on individual horizontal and vertical members in the crest region are evaluated. In terms of wave modelling, the key factors are the wave shape and the associated water particle kinematics. In addressing these points, the present results have shown that only nonlinear modelling methods are capable of accurately describing a limiting wave profile. Indeed, the departures from established analytical solutions, commonly used in design, highlight the importance of high-order effects in steep waves approaching their breaking limit. In predicting the wave impact forces on a body, the gradient or slope of the water surface is of fundamental importance. Detailed experimental analysis of the magnitude and direction of the impact force on a horizontal cylinder has highlighted an important source of uncertainty. This relates to the nonparallel nature of the normal to the water surface and the direction of the resultant water particle kinematics. The present work has shown that in the crests of large, steep waves, this angular difference creates an important variability in the force predictions. However, having taken account of this effect, the magnitude of the impact force can be reliably predicted using a slamming coefficient of Cs = 5.19. This is shown to be appropriate to a wide range of oblique wave-structure impacts. When considering the wave forces on a vertical column the present study has shown that it is crucial to consider both the type of wave breaking and also the additional complexity of free surface deformation during the loading event. Overall, measurements of wave run-up are shown to be less dependent on the occurrence of wave impact forces than previously hypothesised. However, the extent of the column area subject to large impact loads is shown to be critically dependent upon the type of wave breaking.

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Ash, Ellis R. "Rossby waves and mean currents in the Southern Ocean." Thesis, University of Edinburgh, 2000. http://hdl.handle.net/1842/11542.

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Dynamics in the Southern Ocean are dominated by the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC), and this large eastward current has an important influence on the earth's climate. Output from the last six years of the Fine Resolution Antarctic Model, where the mean flow is known, is used to develop techniques for quantifying Rossby waves and eddy activity. Some eastward jets in the mean flow are found to act as waveguides for Rossby waves. Phase speeds are found to increase linearly with frequency, but do not vary with the strength of mean flow. The reason for this is demonstrated using the dispersion relation, but it is shown that Rossby waves cannot be used to measure mean flows in the ACC without a further understanding of the theory involved. A property of the time-average eddy activity, known as the eddy orientation angle, is shown to indicate the axes of the prominent eastward jets in the mean flow. This shows that eddies are acting to force these jets. Five yeas of measurements from the TOPEX/POSEIDON satellite mission are used to identify Rossby waves in the real ocean. Coherent Rossby wave propagation is again confined to localised regions, some of which act as waveguides. Phase speeds are measured in these regions, and shown to be consistent with previous measurements of Rossby waves. An improved resolution dataset, combining TOPEX/POSEIDON and ERS altimetry measurements, is used to analyse the time-average eddy activity and associated forcing on the mean flow in unprecedented detail. Current data from cruises of the World Ocean Circulation Experiment are used in conjunction with altimetry data to estimate the mean flow at locations along ship tracks. Using these estimates, and the position of temperature fronts as an indication of prominent jets in the mean flow, the eddy forcing is shown to be different to that observed in FRAM. Instead of forcing the mean flow, eddies are being generated within the jets which are likely to be maintained by topographic forcing.

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Farneti, Riccardo. "Oceanic planetary waves in the coupled ocean-atmosphere system." Thesis, University of Southampton, 2005. https://eprints.soton.ac.uk/25139/.

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The propagation of planetary, or Rossby, waves is studied under the effects of different atmospheric couplings. First, analytical matchings are formulated in which a Rossby wave is coupled to different thermodynamical atmospheres, from a simple heat flux condition to the inclusion of an atmospheric energy balance model. The effects on the vertical structure and phase speed of the first modes are negligible. However, it is shown that for the latter case an unstable mode appears. This growing mode, of decadal period and growth rate, has no physical source of energy and therefore is a result of the oversimplified atmosphere employed. In fact, adding physics to the atmospheric model results in a gradual disappearance of the instability. The possibility of observing similar unphysical modes in climate studies, where oversimplified models are adopted, is raised. Next, a quasi-geostrophic coupled model is used in order to analyse the oceanic Rossby wave characteristics under the influence of a full atmosphere. The idealised eddy-resolving model consists of an ocean basin underneath a channel atmosphere, and different configurations for the oceanic component are used. The Rossby waves are observed to propagate faster than both the classical linear theory (unperturbed solution) and the phase speed estimates when the effect of the zonal mean flow is added (perturbed solution). Moreover, using statistical eigentechniques, a coupled Rossby wave is identified, bearing the characteristics of the coupled mode proposed by Goodman and Marshall (1999). It is argued that the atmospheric coupling is capable of adding an extra speed up to the wave; in fact, when the waves are simply forced, their propagation speed approaches the perturbed solution. The waves are observed to break into faster waves, as suggested by LaCasce and Pedlosky (2004), although their resistance to dissipation and instabilities processes is enhanced by the atmospheric coupling, which provides extra energy to the initial wave during its propagation. The development of a coupled Rossby wave is found to be possible in a basin of the dimensions of both the Pacific and the Atlantic ocean, and its characteristics and strength vary little when the tridimensional accuracy of the ocean is increased.

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