Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'PSYCHOLOGY OF FASHION'

Thesis (M.A.)--Georgia Southern University, 2008.
"A dissertation submitted to the Graduate Faculty of Georgia Southern University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree Master of Arts." Under the direction of Richard Flynn. ETD. Electronic version approved: May 2008. Includes bibliographical references (p. 65-75)

Media outlets perpetuate an ultra-thin feminine ideal which has been linked to body dissatisfaction among women (Lew, Mann, Myers, Taylor, & Bower, 2007). The present study focused on the inclusion of warning labels, similar to those in cigarette ads, on advertisements. Previous research indicates that these labels might have a protective factor for women's body satisfaction, but results are inconsistent (Slater, Tiggemann, Firth, & Hawkins, 2012; Tiggemann, Slater, Bury, Hawkins, & Firth, 2013). The purpose of this study was to resolve inconsistencies from past research and extend the findings to Women of Color (WOC). Participants of this study included 161 female college students at a Midwestern university. Results indicated that warning labels may serve to decrease body dissatisfaction within both White Women and WOC. Implications for practice were also discussed.

Visual dominance. Our human perception, that with great authority, powerfully influences and controls all of our senses. In turn, our minds try to acquire and maintain meaningful perceptions in what we are experiencing, may that be in a chaotic world, a cacophony in colour or vibrations in patterns. This project explores disturbances in pattern and colour and how these elements can deceive the eye. Playing with elements such as opacity, layers and transparency the nine outfits presented in this project attempt to explore the principles of Gestalt psychology to create disorder and confusion. Significantly, the project discusses our perception of pattern and colour and how with small measures these components can outsmart our senses, highlighting the importance of psychological methods and techniques in design rather than scientific or mathematical.

Os trânsitos de bens advindos do universo religioso de matrizes africanas têm transpassado barreiras e transmutado os limites entre o que é profano e sagrado. A Moda, entendida como linguagem, repleta de signos, significados, ícones e índices passa a ser uma via importante para tais trânsitos. Esta dissertação, por meio das análises de material de campo de três capitais brasileiras, Salvador, Rio de Janeiro e Porto Alegre, visa interpretar estes trânsitos e suas ressignificações para os elementos do Candomblé que se transformam em códigos vestimentários e assim ultrapassam as fronteiras do que é profano e do que é sagrado. Para tanto, nos apoiaremos nas teorias de Peirce (2015) e Leach (1978), no que tange à análise semiótica e antropológica. Para observar a “dessacralização” dos objetos oriundos do Candomblé, este processo foi contextualizado nos termos da pós-modernidade de Jameson (1996) e Harvey (1992). As ideias de fluxos e pós-colonialismo através de Mbembe (2014) e Bhabha (1998) também foram averiguadas, assim como os conceitos de indivíduo de Hall (2005), foram debatidos, chegando a um novo conceito de singularidades proposto por Albuquerque (2007). Por fim, as teorias de Certeau (1994) e as elaborações sobre metamorfoses de espaço de Pintaudi (2011) foram utilizadas para a observação dos Mercados Públicos, espaços fundamentais de troca e ressignificação.
Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior, CAPES
The transits of goods coming from the religious universe of African origins have pierced barriers and transmuted the boundaries between what is profane and sacred. Fashion, understood as language, full of signs, meanings, icon and elements become an important route for such transits. This dissertation, throughout the analysis of field work in three Brazilian city capitals – Salvador. Rio de Janeiro and Porto Alegre – aims to interpret their transits and their redeterminations for the elements of Candomblé that turn into dress codes and thus cross the borders of what is profane and of what is sacred. Therefore, the theories of Peirce (2015) and Leach (1978) are used to refer to the semiotic and anthropological analysis. In order to observe the "desacralization" of the Candomblé objects, this process is contextualized in terms of the postmodernity of Jameson (1996) and Harvey (1992). The ideas of flows and post-colonialism in Mbembe (2014) and Bhabha (1998) were also investigated as well as the individual concepts of Hall (2005), arriving at a new concept of singularities proposed by Albuquerque (2007). Finally, the theories of Certeau (1994) and the elaborations on metamorphoses of space by Pintaudi (2011) were used for a vision of the Public Markets, fundamental spaces of exchange and resignification.

Abstract In an increasingly digital world, organizations and individuals are turning to web-based applications as a source of information and method of inter-personal communication; this includes social media. This literature review analyzes the effects of social media marketing in luxury fashion brands. The research reveals luxury brands’ social media marketing positively affects purchase intention through user-to-user and brand-to-user communication, if the consumers trust the brand. On the other hand, disclosure language on Instagram and Facebook negatively affects consumer behavior, but the unique positioning of blogs allows them to positively influence their audience. In addition to this evidence, this paper also includes suggestions for future research. Keywords: social media, luxury brands, fashion, marketing, purchase intention, consumer behavior

Fashion emerged in the West in the Renaissance, where it played the role of social distinction, since the clothes were not accessible to all classes and, consequently, by the way it was dressed, it was possible to identify which social layer that subject belonged to. According to Lipovetsky (2009), what defines the fashion system is the conjunction of the logics of the ephemeral and aesthetic fantasy, which only found space in modern societies. Anthony Giddens (1991) asserts that the modern era differs from others, especially because of its high dynamism, such a rapid pace of social change has never been seen in other times as it does in modernity. In addition, the breadth and depth of social change is much greater, affecting social practices and modes of behavior, so-called "late modernity" is the present moment, the most marked phase of its characteristics. In Psychology, fashion plays a significant role in identity, acting between the individual and society, because through clothing it is possible to express and communicate and, in many cases, it functions as a symbol of belonging. When we think of fashion as an expression of identity in the contemporary world, the notion of identity adopted was that of the postmodern subject of Stuart Hall (2006), who considers it fragmented, multiple, contradictory, breaking with the vision of identity of traditional societies. In the light of this, a bibliographical review of articles on this topic in Psychology in Portuguese, in the last ten years (2007-2017), on the SciELO website (Scientific Electronic Library Online) and on the electronic journals of the PePSIC, with the objective of ascertaining what has been produced on this subject. In the subsequent stage, an exploratory study was conducted through a focus group with six young people aged 19 to 24, conducted twice, in order to investigate the relationship between fashion and identity, as this appears in their discourse about the way they dress. The data were elaborated through Bardin's (2016) content analysis, defined by Moraes (1999) as "a research methodology used to describe and interpret the content of every class of documents and texts." Based on the theoretical foundation, the categories were created social positioning, self-expression, values/ideals and gender and sexuality, articulating the results to the central reflection on fashion and identity in the contemporary world. It was noticed that the notion of identity is not limited only to the clothing, but to the own speech presented by the members of the group, who made use of specific terms of the fashion area, establishing a kind of connection between such members, despite the identified identity distinctions for themselves. Because it is a focal group carried out with young people with some previous knowledge about fashion, it was possible to perceive, also, reflections on the use of fashion in an ambivalent relationship, characterized by the search for belonging in specific groups and by the differentiation of the subject, as a form of to position itself politically and socially. In the discussion, transferential and countertransferential aspects were presented, from the choice of study object, to the composition of the group and even in relation to the procedure and progress of the research, as well as my participation as a researcher.
A moda surgiu no Ocidente, na época da Renascença, onde desempenhava papel de distinção social, uma vez que as roupas não eram acessíveis a todas as classes e, consequentemente, pela forma como se vestia, era possível identificar a qual camada social aquele sujeito pertencia. Segundo Lipovetsky (2009), o que define o sistema de moda é a conjunção das lógicas do efêmero e da fantasia estética, que só encontrou espaço nas sociedades modernas. Anthony Giddens (1991) afirma que a era moderna se diferencia das demais, principalmente, por seu alto dinamismo, nunca se viu um ritmo tão acelerado de mudança social em outras épocas como ocorre na modernidade. Além disso, a amplitude e a profundidade das mudanças sociais são muito maiores, afetando as práticas sociais e os modos de comportamento, a chamada “modernidade tardia” é o momento atual, a fase mais acentuada de suas características. Na Psicologia, a moda tem papel significativo no que se refere à identidade, atuando entre o indivíduo e a sociedade, pois por meio do vestuário é possível expressar-se e se comunicar e, em muitos casos, ela funciona como símbolo de pertencimento. Ao se pensar na moda como expressão de identidade no mundo contemporâneo, a noção de identidade adotada foi a do sujeito pós-moderno de Stuart Hall (2006), que a considera fragmentada, múltipla, podendo ser contraditória entre si, rompendo com a visão de identidade única e permanente das sociedades tradicionais. Diante disto, inicialmente foi feito um levantamento bibliográfico de artigos sobre este tema na Psicologia, em português, nos últimos dez anos (2007-2017), no site do SciELO (Scientific Electronic Library Online) e dos periódicos eletrônicos do PePSIC (portal de Periódicos Eletrônicos de Psicologia) com o objetivo de averiguar o que vem sendo produzido sobre este assunto. Na etapa posterior, foi feita uma pesquisa exploratória por meio de grupo focal com seis jovens de 19 a 24 anos, realizado duas vezes, a fim de investigar a relação entre moda e identidade, como esta aparece no discurso deles sobre o modo que se vestem. Os dados foram trabalhados por meio de análise de conteúdo de Bardin (2016), definida por Moraes (1999) como “uma metodologia de pesquisa usada para descrever e interpretar o conteúdo de toda classe de documentos e textos”. Com base na fundamentação teórica, foram criadas as categorias posicionamento social, auto-expressão, valores/ideiais e gênero e sexualidade, articulando os resultados à reflexão central sobre moda e identidade no mundo contemporâneo. Percebeu-se que a noção de identidade não se limita apenas ao vestuário, mas ao próprio discurso apresentado pelos membros do grupo, que faziam uso de termos específicos da área da moda, estabelecendo uma espécie de conexão entre tais membros, apesar das distinções identitárias apontadas por eles mesmos. Por se tratar de grupo focal realizado com jovens detentores de algum conhecimento prévio sobre moda, foi possível perceber, também, reflexões sobre o uso da moda numa relação ambivalente, caracterizada pela busca de pertencimento em grupos específicos e pela diferenciação do sujeito, como forma de se posicionar político e socialmente. Na discussão, foram apresentados os aspectos transferenciais e contratransferenciais, desde a escolha do objeto de estudo, à composição do grupo e até mesmo em relação ao procedimento e ao andamento da pesquisa, bem como a minha participação enquanto pesquisadora.
São Cristóvão, SE

Det blir allt vanligare idag att de stora modehusen skapar barnkollektioner. Internationellt sätt har nästan varje stor designer redan gett sig in på barnklädesmarknaden. Jag valde dock att inte fokusera på den internationella marknaden utan undersöka hur den såg ut i Sverige med svenska modeföretag som hade olika positioner. Jag plockade ut ett antal märken som skiljde sig markant i målgrupp. Företagen jag har valt att ha med till studien är Acne, KappAhl och Polarn O. Pyret.KappAhl är ett stort modeföretag som riktar sig till herr, dam och barn. Företaget är inte mer nischade än att deras kläder ska hålla låga priser. KappAhl har en populär barnkollektion som de driver likt deras andra kollektioner starkt framåt. Polarn O. Pyret däremot har en helt annan bakgrund där de endast är fokuserade på barnmode. Det startade som ett barnklädesmärke och har inte kommit med några andra kollektioner än att de tillverkar en del mammatröjor i randigt som är deras signum för kläderna. Acne är intressant då företaget ligger i en helt annan prisklass och skiljer sig i målgrupp till skillnad från de föregående två företagen.Att jämföra de olika företagens inriktningar var intressant och lärorikt, att kunna analysera deras egna tankar och idéer kring en bransch om mode för barn. Det kändes som att rapporten inte riktigt fick sitt syfte förrän den psykologiska debatten sammanvävdes i studien. Hur man klär sina barn är en personlig smaksak och har troligtvis inga direkt negativa effekter i små åldrar. Däremot kan man ifrågasätta dagens medier inom barnmode då allt mer reklam riktas mot barn. Artiklar i modemagasin som lyder ”såhär ska barnen se ut i vår” låter egentligen mer som direktiv riktat mot föräldrarna. Allt fler framförallt unga tjejer har också tagit efter de stora modebloggerskorna och man kan se att i redan väldigt unga åldrar bloggar 12 åriga tjejer om hur man ska se ut i vår och vad som gäller. Kopplingen blir mellan hur modeföretagen själva ser på industrin och vad de själva anser att de har för ansvar gentemot de väldigt unga tjejerna.Debatten kring att barn ska få vara barn blir aktuell och detta försöker jag påvisa och genom att väva samman en rapport om vem som egentligen anser sig bära ansvaret. Föräldrar och modeindustrin absolut, men finns det då egentligen något rätt och fel om dessa unga tjejer brinner för mode. Det är meningen att studien skall göras så objektiv som möjligt, då slutsatsen av studien inte ska påvisa vad som är rätt eller fel utan diskutera de olika respondenternas svar kopplat till hur vi människor utvecklas under barnsåren. Analysen av modeföretagens arbetssätt, psykologi och samhällets påtryckningar vidareutvecklade även det egna externa uppdraget.These days almost every great designer makes clothing for kids. On the international market it’s much more common that every large design house has entered the kids wear market. They create mini collections for the youngest with a sense of fashion. But I chose to not focus on the international market and to look deeper into the Swedish market and the differences between Swedish brands. I chose three brands that points at different target groups. Acne, KappAhl and Polarn O.Pyret.KappAhl is a big fashion company that is addressed to men, women and children. The company is not more niche than that their clothes should maintain low prices. KappAhl makes popular kids wear as they run, like their other collections strongly.Polarn O. Pyret has a completely different context in which they are only focused on children's fashion. It started as a company only focused on kids wear and has not suggested any other collections.Acne is interesting because it is located in a completely different price range and differ in the audience, unlike the previous two companies. To compare the different companies' approaches were interesting and instructive to analyze their own thoughts and ideas on an industry of fashion for children. It felt that the report had not quite got its order until the psychological debate interweaved in the study.How to dress their children is a personal matter of taste and has probably no direct adverse effects in small ages.Articles in fashion magazines that says "this is what your kids should wear this spring" sounds much more like directives targeted at parents. Particularly young girls have also entered the great fashion blogger market. Twelve year old girls talking about what to wear. The link is between how fashion companies themselves looking at the industry and what responsibility they have against these very young girls.The much more current debate surrounding that kids should be kids becomes an issue. What I try to show in the report is how the different companys consider themselves to be responsible. Parents and fashion industry certainly, but is there really no right or wrong about these young girls are passionate about fashion. It is intended that the study should be as objective as possible, then the conclusion of the study will not prove what is right or wrong without discussing the variousIVrespondents' answers to the way we humans develop during childhood. The analysis of the fashion business processes, psychology and social pressures further developed also its own external mission.
Program: Textil produktutveckling med entreprenörs- och affärsinriktning

Objective: The goal of this research was to explore how the design of clothing, specifically the design of the suit, can create height illusions. Background: Taller people enjoy many advantages, such as increased income and perceived attractiveness. These advantages motivate people to try to appear taller than they actually are, and clothing experts provide advice on how to accomplish this. However, there is little empirical evidence to validate the illusory effects clothing might have on overall height perception. The few studies that have explored illusions of body size created by clothing design have been limited in two important ways – the test stimuli have included unnatural body shapes and have failed to include naturalistic context (i.e., surrounding depth and size cues available in real scenes). Method: In the first phase, participants (nonexperts in clothing design) provided suggestions for how to appear taller by changing clothes. In the second phase, participants 1) viewed photographs of a variety of targets wearing suit designs that are commonly believed to manipulate viewers’ perceptions of height, 2) rated the targets on traits associated with height such as income and attractiveness, and 3) estimated the heights of these individuals. This study focused on the potential effects of suit color, specifically overall lightness (light vs. dark) and monochromaticity (monochromatic vs. lightness blocking). The effects of these designs were tested with and without contextual information by presenting targets within a natural streetscape or on a white background. Results: In the first phase, we found that nonexperts provided similar suggestions as experts in clothing design, including those pertaining to monochromaticity and lightness. In the second phase, we found that estimates were more accurate with more contextual information, and that clothing can impact height estimations, where monochromatic outfits yielded taller height estimates, although other outfit comparisons did not have effects. Outfits overall did not impact ratings such as income and attractiveness, although estimated height did correlate with these same social attributes. In an exploration of the impact of contextual and target-specific cues other than clothing on height estimations, we found that height perception was potentially dependent on a variety of factors such as the target's race, location (indoors vs. outdoors), stance, and the presence of nearby people. Scientific merit: This study increased our understanding of the conditions under which illusions of size in simple geometric stimuli generalize to the manipulation of size perception in real-world scenes. Broader impact: A better understanding of biases in height perception is relevant to domains in which such estimates are used to identify individuals (e.g., criminal justice) as well as domains in which visual characteristics of individuals are associated with errors in judgments of performance-based merit. (e.g., personnel selection and promotion).

Объектом исследования явилось отношение к моде. Предметом исследования стало отношение к моде и их связь с личностными особенностями у молодежи. Магистерская диссертация состоит из введения, двух глав, заключения, списка литературы (109 источников) и приложения, включающего в себя бланки применявшихся методик. Объем магистерской диссертации 89 страниц, на которых размещены 10 рисунков и 5 таблиц. Во введении раскрывается актуальность проблемы исследования, разработанность проблематики, ставятся цель и задачи исследования, определяются объект и предмет исследования, формулируются основная и дополнительные гипотезы, указываются методы и эмпирическая база, а также этапы проведения исследования, научная новизна, теоретическая и практическая значимость работы. Первая глава включает в себя обзор иностранной и отечественной литературы по теме отношения к себе и к моде у молодежи. Представлены разделы, посвященные исследованию самоотношения, самоактуализации, юношеского возраста и психологии моды. Выводы по первой главе представляют собой итоги по изучению теоретического материала. Вторая глава посвящена эмпирической части исследования. В ней представлено описание организации и методов проведенного исследования и результатов, полученных по всем использованным методикам: «Методика исследования самоотношения» (тест МИС, опросник МИС) В.В. Столина, С.Р. Пантилеева, «Тест определения уровня самоактуализации личности» (тест САТ) Э. Шострома в модификации Л.Я. Гозмана, «Методика «шкала отношения к моде» (ШОМ) Н.Г. Артемцевой, Т.Н. Грековой. Также в главе представлен корреляционный и факторный анализ результатов исследования. Выводы по главе 2 включают в себя основные результаты эмпирического исследования. В заключении в обобщенном виде изложены результаты теоретической и эмпирической частей работы, а также выводы по выдвинутым гипотезам, обоснована практическая значимость исследования и описаны возможные перспективы дальнейшей разработки данной проблематики.
The object of the study was the attitude to fashion. The subject of the study is the attitude to fashion and their relationship with personality traits among young people. The master's thesis consists of an introduction, two chapters, a conclusion, a list of literature (109 sources) and an appendix, which includes the forms of the applied methodologies. The volume of the master's thesis is 89 pages, on which are placed 10 figures and 5 tables. The introduction reveals the relevance of the research problem, the development of the problematics, the purpose and objectives of the research are set, the object and the subject of research are determined, the basic and additional hypotheses are formulated, the methods and the empirical base are specified, as well as the stages of the research, the scientific novelty, the theoretical and practical significance of the work. The first chapter includes an overview of the domestic and foreign literature on the topic of attitude to oneself and to fashion among young people. The sections devoted to the study of self-attitude, self-actualization, adolescence and fashion psychology are presented. Conclusions on the first chapter are the results of the study of theoretical material. The second chapter is devoted to the empirical part of the study. It provides a description of the organization and methods of the study and the results obtained using all the methods used: Self-attitude research methodology "(MIS test, MIS questionnaire) V.V. Stolin, S.R. Pantileeva, “Test for determining the level of personality self-actualization” (CAT test) by E. Shostrom, modified by L.Ya. Gozman, “Methodology“ scale of attitude to fashion ”(SHOM) N.G. Artemtseva, T.N. Grekova. Also, the chapter presents a comparative, correlation and factor analysis of the results of the study. The findings of Chapter 2 are the main results of the empirical study. In conclusion, brief results of the theoretical and empirical parts of the work are presented, as well as conclusions on the hypotheses. The practical significance of the study is substantiated and possible prospects for further development of the problematics are described.

Un nombre croissant de recherches indique que les consommateurs utilisent les produits de marque comme outils pour construire et communiquer leur propre identité. Les produits de marque servent de marqueurs de statut et de symboles d’appartenance à un groupe et permettent aux consommateurs de se différencier des autres et d’exprimer leur individualité. Pour créer des marques qui peuvent servir à construire des identités personnelles et pour renforcer le lien entre la marque et le consommateur, il est important que les consommateurs puissent participer au processus de création (co-création). La personnalisation des produits à grande échelle est un outil particulièrement utile pour impliquer les consommateurs dans ce processus qui contribue à augmenter la satisfaction des clients et leur consentement à payer. Cependant, les théories actuelles sur l’utilisation des marques comme marqueurs d’identités personnelles et les théories sur les stratégies visant à renforcer la relation entre la marque et le consommateur ont été élaborées principalement dans un contexte occidental. Le but de cette recherche est donc d’étudier dans quelle mesure les consommateurs d’Asie de l’Est diffèrent, dans leur utilisation des marques comme marqueurs d’identité personnelle, des consommateurs occidentaux. Elle explore également les implications potentielles des différences interculturelles dans la communication des identités personnelles pour la personnalisation des produits et pour la relation entre les marques et les consommateurs. Suite à des études antérieures indiquant que les vêtements et les accessoires de mode sont fréquemment utilisés par les consommateurs pour communiquer leur identité, la présente recherche se concentre sur les produits de mode de marques de luxe et les produits de marques grand public. Conformément à la tradition de la psychologie culturelle, cette thèse part de l’hypothèse que les variations culturelles dans la conception de soi et dans les relations entre l’individu et les autres permettent d’expliquer des différences dans le comportement des consommateurs. Une approche mixte est utilisée pour étudier les différences interculturelles entre des échantillons représentant une culture collectiviste de l’Asie de l’Est (Corée du Sud) et des échantillons représentant une culture individualiste occidentale (Allemagne). Les données quantitatives recueillies au moyen de questionnaires (études 1A et 1B) sont combinées avec les données qualitatives recueillies au moyen d’entretiens semi-structurés en profondeur (études 2A et 2B). Cette recherche apporte de nouveaux éléments concernant les différences interculturelles et permet d'enrichir les théories sur la relation entre la marque et le consommateur et sur l’utilisation des marques comme marqueurs d’identité personnelle. Elle contribue également au courant de recherche émergent sur la personnalisation des produits
A growing body of research indicates that consumers use branded products as tools to construct their self-identity and to communicate their self-identities to others. Besides acting as markers of status and symbols of group membership, branded products allow consumers to differentiate themselves from others and to express individuality. Key to generating identity related brand meaning and to strengthening self-brand connections, is the involvement of the consumer in a co-creation process. Product design customization on a large scale has emerged as a particularly useful tool to involve consumers in the creation process of the brand and to increase their satisfaction and willingness to pay. However, existing theories on the use of brands to signal self-identities as well as strategies for strengthening self-brand connections, such as product design customization, are bound to Western individualistic thinking. The aim of this research is to investigate the extent to which East Asian consumers differ in their use of brands to signal self identities from Western individualistic consumers. In addition, it explores potential implications of cross-cultural differences in the signaling of self-identities for product design customization and self-brand connections. Following prior studies indicating that clothing and fashion accessories are particularly likely to be used by consumers to communicate self-identities, the focus of the present research is laid on fashion products of both luxury brands and high street brands. In line with the tradition of cultural psychology, this thesis draws on the assumption that cultural variations in self construal and in self-other relationships lead to differences in consumer behavior. A mixed methods approach is taken to investigate cross-cultural differences between samples representing an East Asian collectivistic culture (South Korea) and samples representing a Western individualistic culture (Germany). Specifically, quantitative data collected through surveys (studies1A and 1B) are combined with qualitative data collected through semi-structured in-depth interviews (studies 2A and 2B). This research provides novel, cross-cultural insights relevant to existing the orizing on consumer-brand relationships and on consumers’ use of brands as signals of self-identities. It also contributes to the emerging stream of research on product design

Le constat de départ de cette recherche, souligné par la littérature, est celui du débat permanent au sein des organisations créatives, entre priorités artistiques et créatives d'un côté et intérêts économiques de l'autre côté. Nous interrogeons la manière dont les acteurs créatifs gèrent les contraintes économiques qui les entourent dans ce contexte marqué par la rationalisation. Au travers d'une étude qualitative et approfondie de l'industrie de la mode -entretiens et travail ethnographique, nous avons observé les pratiques quotidiennes des acteurs créatifs du secteur. Premièrement, et au travers du travail de Michel de Certeau, nous révélons ici les différentes tactiques et autres arrangements que ceux-ci développent vis-à-vis des contraintes, une forme d'action qui joue un rôle important dans les organisations créatives. Cette forme d'action, que l'on nomme trouble du créatif, entretient une ambiguïté autour du travail créatif en organisation, nécessaire pour créer. Ensuite, nous révélons les forces socio-matérielles et affectives qui constituent les pratiques créatives de façon intrinsèque, et soulignons le poids de telles forces dans la négociation permanente avec les motifs économiques. Subséquemment, nous proposons le concept de créativité-en-action, une manière à la fois incarnée, matérielle et affective d'agir créatif, au sein des industries créatives
This PhD departs from the research literature that underlines the on-going debate arising in creative companies, between art/creative priorities on the one hand and economic/business interests on the other hand. We wonder how actors involved into the creative process deal with economic and rationalization constraints. Through an in-depth, qualitative study in fashion industry -interviews and ethnographic work, we investigate empirically the daily practices of creative actors. First, and notably through Michel de Certeau's work, we reveal the various tactics and arrangements that they develop towards such constraints, as a form of action that plays an important role in creative organizations. This form of action we call creative fuzziness maintains a necessary ambiguity around creative work. Second, we underline the socio-material and affective forces that inherently constitute creative practices, and how much such forces weigh in the economic negotiation. We then suggest the concept of creativity-in-action, an embodied-material and affective way of acting creative, within creative industries

Linda Yeung Lai-yin.
Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2000.
Includes bibliographical references (leaves [118-122]).
Abstracts in English and Chinese.
Content
Chapter Chapter I --- Introduction
Chapter Chapter II --- Literature Review
Chapter Chapter III --- Methodology
Chapter Chapter IV --- Symbolism of Italian Brands
Chapter Chapter V --- Good Clothes And a Good Living
Chapter Chapter VI --- Clothes And Oneself
Chapter Chapter VII --- Hong Kong: A Hierarchical Society
Illustrations (Newspaper and Magazine Cuttings) Conclusion

M.Tech.
My practical and theoretical research is informed by Johannesburg, the city in which I live. My thesis is positioned within postcolonial academic and theorist Homi K. Bhabha’s theory of a “Third Space” and within South African academic, Colin Richards’ (In: Enwezor 1997:234-235) theory of a graft that operates within an enculturated semiosphere. In this instance, I identify spaces in which a graft operates in the form of two examples: garments designed by Strangelove and Stoned Cherrie and selected suburban boundary walls in Parktown West, Westcliff, Houghton, Melville and Emmarentia. These two examples are used to argue whether a graft ‘takes’ to ‘open out’ a space for cultural difference or whether it does not ‘take’, thus closing off space. I understand my examples as hybrid forms and manifestations of identities in a process of re-definition in the context of postcolonial Johannesburg. My practical work explores my hybrid identity in my lived context. The artworks are constructed through a similar process to that of a fashion designer by grafting diverse elements. The visual references used in my artworks are informed by the boundary wall and meaning is incorporated by selecting diverse materials to construct my artworks. My practical work therefore ties together the two examples that I use and informs my art-making process.

Thesis. (M. Tech. (Dept. of Marketing, Faculty of Management Sciences)) -- Vaal University of Technology, 2011.
The underlying determinants of how and why people shop has been a topic of study for many years, when typologies of shopping styles were developed. These studies have been successful in demonstrating that some shoppers display consistent shopping orientations that can be diametrically opposed, for example, the functional shopper versus the recreational shopper. This study concentrates on purchasing patterns of consumers by examining the decision-making styles of Generation Y consumers with regard to fashion apparel. The study reports on various stages that consumers undergo when confronted with a decision situation. These stages are outlined as need recognition, information search, pre-purchase evaluation, purchase, consumption and post-consumption. The buying behaviours influencing consumers were categorised into internal and external factors. The internal factor includes perception, motivation, learning, attitudes, personalities, self-concept, lifestyle and demography. The external factors comprised the following variables, namely, cultural background, subculture, family influence, and the social factor. The general characteristics of Generation Y were briefly discussed. Various dimensions used to measure consumer decision-making styles were reviewed in the study related to perfectionism, brand consciousness, novelty-fashion consciousness, recreational consciousness, price-and-value-for-money consciousness, impulsiveness and confusion as a result of overchoice of brands. The study adopted quantitative approach. A structured questionnaire was used to survey 230 students who were selected using non-probability convenience sampling. Seven dimensions measuring consumer decision-making styles were found to be applicable within the Generation Y context. These consumers were profiled as being quality conscious, brand conscious, novelty-seeking, hedonistic, confused by overchoice, habitual, brand loyal and fashion conscious. Differences were found between consumers who are confused by overchoice and younger Generation Y consumers. Younger consumers were found to be more confused by overchoice compared to their older counterparts. It is suggested that apparel retailers should try to use communication channels which will be more understandable by Generation Y consumers, and they should provide information that assists buyers to make a rational decision in the buying process. Differences were also confirmed between habitual, brand-loyal consumers and age. It was found that younger consumers are more likely to be loyal to specific brands as compared to their older counterparts. Differences were noted between brand conscious, confused by overchoice and gender. Brand consciousness was regarded as a reflection of men‟s desire to use shopping as a demonstration of their superiority, as well as being beneficial because they reduce search costs. It was revealed that males were more brand conscious than their female counterparts. It also highlighted that males were more confused by overchoice than females. The study found that the majority of Generation Y does pursue quality, even if it means paying higher prices. It is recommended that retailers should continue to emphasise their well-known brand names and set prices at levels where consumers perceive the quality of the product by its price. Retailers should focus on diverse designs, sizes and colours in their product assortment and range. The introduction of new products through the use of fashion shows, fashion magazines and advertisements may provide added advantages in terms of brand awareness
Central Research Committee of the Vaal University of Technology

In this study the stories of Unisa academic employees and fashion models were explored. The aim was to understand the nature of place-identity at work and to also look at what impact do changes to these working environments have on place-identity. Another aim of this study was to compare these two work contexts. The data was collected through interviews combined with an auto-ethnographic approach. The study suggested that people form an identity towards their places of work and also that changes within the workplace can be perceived as a threat. The study also showed that there are similarities between Unisa and the catwalk as contexts of place-identity.
Psychology
M.A.(Psychology))

Wong, Ching Wa Alana.
Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2007.
Includes bibliographical references (leaves 123-128).
Abstracts in English and Chinese.
Abstract --- p.i
Acknowledgements --- p.iii
Chapter Chapter One: --- Introduction --- p.1
Chapter 1.1 --- Overview --- p.1
Chapter 1.1.1 --- Objectives --- p.1
Chapter 1.1.2 --- Who are fashionable Hong Kong young men? --- p.3
Chapter 1.1.3 --- Significance and Setting --- p.5
Chapter 1.2 --- Literature Review --- p.7
Chapter 1.2.1 --- Changing masculinity in postindustrial society --- p.7
Chapter 1.2.2 --- Beauty used to be associated with women --- p.10
Chapter 1.2.3 --- Beauty has become part of masculinity --- p.12
Chapter 1.2.4 --- Hong Kong's changing masculinity --- p.16
Chapter 1.3 --- Methodology --- p.18
Chapter 1.3.1 --- Media survey --- p.18
Chapter 1.3.2 --- In-depth interviews --- p.20
Chapter 1.4 --- Structure of the thesis --- p.22
Chapter Chapter Two: --- Changing Perception of Masculinity in Hong Kong: Dominant and Alternative --- p.24
Chapter 2.1 --- Introduction --- p.24
Chapter 2.2 --- Meanings of Chinese masculinity --- p.24
Chapter 2.3 --- Dominant perception of masculinity in Hong Kong --- p.26
Chapter 2.4 --- Beauty becomes part of masculinity in Hong Kong --- p.28
Chapter 2.4.1 --- Male beauty contest on television --- p.29
Chapter 2.4.2 --- Hong Kong men's opinions on men's beauty --- p.32
Chapter 2.4.2.1 --- Appearance is important for men --- p.33
Chapter 2.4.2.2 --- Concern for appearance cannot be publicly admitted --- p.37
Chapter 2.5 --- Conclusion: Caring for beauty is becoming part of masculinity --- p.40
Chapter Chapter Three: --- Men's beauty in magazines in Hong Kong --- p.42
Chapter 3.1 --- Introduction --- p.42
Chapter 3.2 --- Magazines in Hong Kong --- p.43
Chapter 3.2.1 --- Youth and gossip magazines --- p.43
Chapter 3.2.2 --- Japanese male fashion magazines --- p.44
Chapter 3.2.3 --- Men's lifestyle magazines --- p.45
Chapter 3.3 --- Men's images in these three types of magazines --- p.45
Chapter 3.3.1 --- Over- emphasis of Japaneseness: Youth and gossip magazines --- p.46
Chapter 3.3.2 --- Authentic Japanese style?: Japanese male fashion magazines --- p.51
Chapter 3.3.3 --- High class men: Men's lifestyle magazines --- p.54
Chapter 3.4 --- Men's images in magazines in Hong Kong: wen or wu? --- p.59
Chapter 3.5 --- Conclusion: Beauty has become increasingly important for men in Hong Kong --- p.62
Chapter Chapter Four: --- "Relationship between ""Japan"" and men's beauty in Hong Kong" --- p.64
Chapter 4.1 --- Introduction --- p.64
Chapter 4.2 --- "The meaning and common beliefs about ""Japan"" in Hong Kong" --- p.65
Chapter 4.2.1 --- Japan as work: Hair stylists and fashion designers --- p.66
Chapter 4.2.1.1 --- Hair stylist assistants --- p.66
Chapter 4.2.1.2 --- Fashion designers --- p.70
Chapter 4.2.2 --- """Japan"" as leading fashion trends" --- p.73
Chapter 4.2.2.1 --- "To be ""cool"" means to learn from Japan" --- p.73
Chapter 4.2.2.2 --- Japan is the best --- p.77
Chapter 4.3 --- "The influence of ""Japan"" on men's beauty" --- p.80
Chapter 4.3.1 --- Awareness of Japan --- p.80
Chapter 4.3.1.1 --- Hong Kong men who deliberately choose Japanized beauty practices --- p.80
Chapter 4.3.1.1.1 --- Hong Kong men who have long term experiences in Japan --- p.80
Chapter 4.3.1.1.2 --- Band members --- p.82
Chapter 4.3.1.2 --- """Japan"" offers an alternative" --- p.83
Chapter 4.3.2 --- Taken-for-Granted Japanese Influences --- p.84
Chapter 4.3.2.1 --- The daily beauty practices: Japanese influences are invisible --- p.84
Chapter 4.3.2.1.1 --- "No ""Japanese"" hair style" --- p.85
Chapter 4.3.2.1.2 --- "No ""Japanese"" clothing styles" --- p.86
Chapter 4.3.2.2 --- """Japan"" mixes with Hong Kong" --- p.88
Chapter 4.3.3 --- Special cases --- p.90
Chapter 4.4 --- Abandonment of Japanized beauty practices --- p.92
Chapter 4.5 --- "Conclusion: ""Japan"" represents a temporarily attractive life for men" --- p.93
Chapter Chapter Five: --- Negotiation with Women: Fashionable Hong Kong Young Men's Beauty Ideals --- p.95
Chapter 5.1 --- Introduction --- p.95
Chapter 5.2 --- "Women's ""gaze"" in the male beauty contest" --- p.96
Chapter 5.3 --- The use of women in encouraging men's beauty in Hong Kong magazines --- p.97
Chapter 5.4 --- Hong Kong men's masculinity: we listen and obey women's orders --- p.104
Chapter 5.5 --- Conclusion: Fashionable Hong Kong young men's beauty practices are influenced by women --- p.109
Chapter Chapter Six: --- Conclusion --- p.111
Chapter 6.1 --- Conclusion --- p.111
Chapter 6.2 --- A Review: Men's beauty as an alternative masculinity in Hong Kong --- p.111
Chapter 6.2.1 --- Hong Kong men need to care about appearance --- p.112
Chapter 6.2.2 --- "Japanized beauty practices can make men look ""cool"" and trendy" --- p.114
Chapter 6.2.3 --- Men listen and obey women's orders on beauty practices --- p.116
Chapter 6.2.4 --- "After all, career achievement and earning ability are more important" --- p.118
Chapter 6.3 --- Conclusion: Limitations and self reflections --- p.120
References --- p.123

Submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Masters of Technology: Fashion at the Durban University of Technology, 2013.
Due to the high levels of unemployment in Durban South Africa, the New Venture Creation (NVC) groups I coached/mentored were seeking to become self-employed, to find social and economic independence. I have observed that many of the people in my NVC groups seemed to lack, self-confidence and self-esteem in the start-up process of their business. These lacunae pose a problem, as they are all necessary if one wants to create a viable, sustainable and profitable business. The reason that I coach these emerging entrepreneurs is to assist in building their self-confidence and self-esteem so that they have the courage to “go for it”. The problem I have sought to address in this research is: How do I influence emerging entrepreneurs to become sufficiently self-confident to be able to design, establish and sustain their own employment and employment for others? I work on the assumption that most people have the capacity to be self-employed. I have used autoethnography with action research to describe the interventions that I initiated, report on their implementation, as well as the evolution of new perceptions and understandings that developed as a result. By using my own and the participants visual data with still images and video with visual narrative I demonstrate the evidence of my living theory and self-study to influence creative economic independence in others and reflect critically on what has been done and achieved, and critically assess the way forward. I verbally explained the ethical issue of obtaining consent to use names and photographs in my study to the participants. My explanation was followed by obtaining written consent from the five key participants and others in the pictorial data.

The literature survey reports that persons electing cosmetic plastic surgery for aesthetic or medical reasons, or those persons not electing any form of surgery, often experience physical, psychological and socio-cultural problems. The complexity among the associated variables, body images, identity status, fashionable clothing behaviour and social self-consciousness were investigated comparatively, using a biopsychosocial approach. The samples consisted of cosmetic surgery patients (n=25), Black and White female fashion participants (n=60) and breast oncology case studies (n=3). The research methods included descriptive and inferential statistics. A maximum of six questionnaires was administered per individual. The results indicated that a positive body image perception was related to identity integrity, fashionable dressing and a sense of social acceptance. Insight into the importance placed on the body as a means of self-expression can contribute to successful cosmetic and breast oncology surgery and also promote intercultural harmony, by reducing body-based prejudice.
Psychology
M.A. (Psychology)

This qualitative study uses narrative inquiry (Connelly & Clandinin, 1988, 1990, 2001) and self-study to investigate ways to further understand and facilitate the integration of holistic philosophies of education with media literacy pedagogies. As founder and director of the Youth Media Literacy Project and a self-titled Imagitator (one who agitates imagination), I have spent over 10 years teaching media literacy in various high schools, universities, and community centres across North America. This study will focus on my own personal practical knowledge (Connelly & Clandinin, 1982) as a culture jammer, educator and cancer survivor to illustrate my original vision of a ‘holistic media literacy pedagogy’. This research reflects on the emergence and impact of holistic media literacy in my personal and professional life and also draws from relevant interdisciplinary literature to challenge and synthesize current insights and theories of media literacy, holistic education and culture jamming.