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1

Price, Louis J., Bonita McFarlane, and Van Lantz. "Wildfire risk mitigation and recreational property owners in Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park-Alberta." Forestry Chronicle 92, no. 01 (January 2016): 66–76. http://dx.doi.org/10.5558/tfc2016-019.

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Recreational property (cottage) owners represent a growing segment of population living at the wildland–urban interface. Land managers may find it particularly difficult to engage these landowners in wildfire management initiatives. This paper examines support for wildfire management, perceived wildfire risk and wildfire mitigation actions among cottage owners in Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park-Alberta. Data were collected from 165 cottage owners using a mail survey. Results showed that these owners had a high level of support for fuel reductions on the landscape and a high level of interest in participating in a cooperative wildfire mitigation program; they had taken action to reduce their risk. However, they seemed reluctant to do substantial tree pruning, or to install fire-resistant siding or screen eaves, decks and vents. Results found that perceived risk was not correlated with mitigation action. Awareness, perceived effectiveness of firefighters, days spent at the cottage and value of the cottage were correlated positively with mitigation action, whereas perceived efficacy, aesthetic effects and cost of mitigation were correlated negatively. These findings suggest that mitigation programs for cottage owners may be effective by providing public education on the efficacy of mitigation, lessening the effects of impediments such as cost, and alleviating concerns about aesthetics.
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SALMI, P., A. L. TOIVONEN, and J. MIKKOLA. "Impact of summer cottage residence on recreational fishing participation in Finland." Fisheries Management and Ecology 13, no. 5 (October 2006): 275–83. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2400.2006.00503.x.

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3

Мостова, Людмила Миколаївна, and Тетяна Валеріївна Клусович. "Quality and safety control in the production of recreational-purpose cottage cheese." Eastern-European Journal of Enterprise Technologies 2, no. 10(74) (April 22, 2015): 50. http://dx.doi.org/10.15587/1729-4061.2015.41377.

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4

Hultkrantz, Lars. "On Determinants of Swedish Recreational Domestic and Outbound Travel, 1989–93." Tourism Economics 1, no. 2 (June 1995): 119–45. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/135481669500100202.

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This is a study of demand by Swedish residents for recreational travel (long-distance daytrip excursions and tourist travel involving overnight stay). We estimate the relationships determining total recreational travel expenditures and the number of trips for six specific purposes (outbound international travel; domestic trips for visiting friends and relatives; staying in a leisure-cottage; participating in activities; seeing an attraction or event; and trips for making experiences). These results are obtained by general-to-specific autoregressive distributed lag modelling using monthly time-series from national telephone-survey data from 1989:1 to 1993:10. Estimated dynamic equations are used for an assessment of the impact on tourism of the major reform of the Swedish tax system 1990–91.
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Якименко, Olga Yakimenko, Полунина, Irina Polunina, Рудницких, and Alina Rudnitskikh. "ESTATE OF SEMILUKI MUNICIPAL DISTRINCT AND THEIR RECREATIONAL VALUE." Forestry Engineering Journal 7, no. 1 (August 15, 2017): 104–10. http://dx.doi.org/10.12737/25200.

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The article describes the features of the landscape and floral estate complexes Semiluki municipal district of the Voronezh region. Field studies were carried out in June 2014 and April 2016. 10 estate complexes were studied. Estate complexes play an important role and environment-forming portions can serve ecological framework nuclei. It is also important recreational value of estates. It was analyzed landscape structure Semiluki area and is made up of estates map of location within the types of terrain. Morphological and aesthetic features estate complexes largely depend on what type within the area it is located. Estates of Semiluki distrinct tend to slope type of terrain. Turning estate complexes in the register of protected areas (RoPA) Russia will benefit the recreational potential of the area, improve the stability of the environment and will promote environmental education. On the territory of Semiluki district area of RoPA is not sufficient, it is appropriate to extend it to make the environmental status of the estates. Currently 2 of the estate area have the status of existing natural monuments (Cottage Bashkirtseva and Semidubravnoe tract), but even in their territory conservation mode is not guaranteed. One reason for this is that the locals do not know what the estate are protected areas. In field studies, it was noted that the majority of estates are in poor condition is not respected conservation mode, the composition of flora no different variety, many estates have poor transport availability and information security. The paper offers recommendations for improving estates and their involvement in environmental and recreational nature
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Gordin, Igor, and Yelena Ryumina. "Development of coasts: socio-ecologic-economic specifics." Population 23, no. 4 (December 19, 2020): 50–60. http://dx.doi.org/10.19181/population.2020.23.4.5.

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Preferential settlement along the coasts of water bodies (rivers, lakes, seas), dictated by a variety of production and recreational factors, has always been accompanied by environmental disruptions. A specific complex of social, environmental and economic problems arose with the beginning of mass cottage development of Russian coasts. At the same time, certain environmental risks were ignored. Until that time, the country had strict restrictions on the approach of dwellings to water and the operational regimes of households in the water protection zone. Particularly strict regulation for construction and operation of dwellings existed for the coasts of sources of communal water supply to cities and rural settlements and in resort and recreation zones. Today, coastal development is in many ways a chaotic process, accompanied by a wide range of legal and environmental violations. A critical situation developed on the sources of water supply in Moscow, at water supply facilities in other cities of the Russian Federation, on the sea coasts of the Krasnodar Krai and Crimea. Residents of prestigious coastal settlements form a large social group with a specific mentality. Very often it is based on a persistent desire to ignore environmental-legal imperatives for the sake of possessing expensive real estate and elitist recreation conditions. The methodology for study of the situation, based on the general principles of systemic analysis of socio-environmental-economic processes, makes it possible to significantly bring the economic interests of the social group in question closer to environmental and state interests. There is proposed a concept of improving the situation through proof of the inevitable depreciation of coastal real estate due to environmental degradation of water bodies on the banks of which unregulated development is conducted. At the same time, both the deterioration of the recreational climate up to a complete discomfort and the immediate economic losses of the population expressed by drop in the price of land and households in the real estate market, are equally important factors of depreciation.
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7

ZDOROV, M. A. "MAIN TENDENCIES AND POSSIBILITIES OF CHANGE OF EXPORT SPECIALIZATION OF RUSSIA." Economic innovations 20, no. 2(67) (June 20, 2018): 48–57. http://dx.doi.org/10.31520/ei.2018.20.2(67).48-57.

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Topicality. The relevance of change of export specialization of Russia has paramount character. Methodical approaches to an economic assessment of recreational resources of the region are considered (rent, expensive, standard, etc.), their critical evaluation is given, and expediency of application of a complex method of an assessment is proved. It consists in group of all existing methods and allocations of indicators of efficiency by each group of methods. The system of calculation of an integrated (complex) indicator of an economic assessment of recreational resources is given.Aim and tasks. For stimulation of agrotourist activity in the Russian Federation we conducted researches on measurement of agrotourist capacity of the economic region of Russia united in the North-South program for a long time. Tasks of identification of agrotourist capacity of regions at respect for the principles of territorial division of labor were set, and according to rationalization of placement and specialization of branches.Research results. Import substitution of food opens ample opportunities for entrance tourism which is a peculiar form of export of food production and tourist's services. It especially is important that organic production often is perishable (hot bread, pair milk, cottage cheese, sour cream, etc.). From this it follows that tendencies of small farms in the village (LE, K(F)H, SPK, etc.) on reception of foreign tourists have the prospects. The interests of the tourists wishing to get acquainted with the multinational culture of Russia features of national crafts and crafts, dream natural places are many-dimensional complemented with consumer goods in the form of organic production.As a result of carried out researches it has turned out that indicators on tourism and agrotourism have coincided. The economic sense is quite explainable here. In the future prospect, it is expedient to transfer all internal and entrance tourism to agrotourism or tourism of rural territories, there is an insignificant part of a tourist's product in the large cities of regional value. Agrotourism on the international standards includes the small and average cities, reflecting all means of placement, natural and cultural and historical potential.Conclusions. As a result of a research, it is possible to draw a conclusion that today the scheme of the movement of financial resources - from tourist to the agricultural enterprises is of particular importance. The calculations which are carried out according to this scheme allow to define for three-year term limits of multiplicative stability of agrotourist production, components 5,9 and 11,7 trillion rubles.
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8

Del Vecchio, Michael. "Surviving Fisheries Management: Aquaculture, Angling, and Lake Ahmic." Scientia Canadensis 34, no. 2 (February 22, 2013): 1–28. http://dx.doi.org/10.7202/1014336ar.

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The vast majority of inland waters in Ontario have been designated as purely recreational fisheries. Environmental historians who study human-fish relations have demonstrated the influence of anglers in the establishment of fishing regulations and fisheries management policies that sought to maximize fish resources for sport fishing and fishing tourism. To achieve this goal, aquaculture programs were conducted throughout Ontario that artificially reared fish and planted them in lakes. For over a century, from approximately 1860-1960, Ontario relied on aquaculture as a blanket solution to all fishery problems. Over the past fifty years, fisheries science has questioned the ecological benefits of stocking programs. Stocking efforts in the province have been drastically reduced since the 1960s but have continued largely because of grass root initiatives from concerned anglers. Lake Ahmic is home to a small cottage community based out of the village of Magnetawan. The lake has been stocked with a variety of fish species for over a hundred years. In addition to this, several species have been accidentally introduced to Lake Ahmic altering its ecological balance. Between 1987 and 2006, a local angling organization was responsible for initiating and running a walleye-stocking program on Lake Ahmic. In 2006, to the disappointment of the local anglers and greater Magnetawan community, the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources canceled the stocking program. At the root of the discord between the community and the government is a century long history of efforts to engineer a desirable nature at Lake Ahmic, as well as shifting ideas of what this desirable nature is, and the role that science should play in bringing it about. I argue that a century of stocking fish on Lake Ahmic has reified the practice into the community’s conservation ethos. The environmental history of Lake Ahmic adds insight into the social and political tensions that have arisen as a result of the cancelation of the stocking program.
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9

Savchuk, Ivan G., and Sergii P. Zapototskyi. "Cottage settlements in capital region of Ukraine." Journal of Geology, Geography and Geoecology 29, no. 2 (July 10, 2020): 415–21. http://dx.doi.org/10.15421/112037.

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In this paper, the phenomenon of suburbanization in Ukraine is considered for the first time on the example of cottage settlements of the capital region. The issue of cottage settlements has not been studied specifically in Ukrainian human geography. A review of the achievements of foreign colleagues has revealed that they are mainly being studied as a new stage in the development of former summer cooperatives (dacha). In our opinion, it is rather one of the forms of pseudourbanization and imitation of Western European standards and forms of life. The cottage settlements have a higher quality of life than the surrounding villages and this causes social polarization within the urban agglomeration of the Ukrainian capital. It was revealed that the transport accessibility to Kyiv, the capital of the country, as well as the presence of natural attractors – the river, pond or forest plays an important role in their location. Conflicts have arisen over access to former public beaches and recreation areas. Currently, only residents of the respective cottage settlements have access to them, which causes social conflict with the local rural population. With the exception of four villages within the administrative boundaries of the capital, the rest are 10 to 30 kilometers away from the main motorways. The social stratification of cottage settlements has great importance. The most prestigious of them arose on the south direction 10 km from Kyiv. They are located in Koncha-Zaspa along the Dnieper river. Here their greatest concentration is revealed. Cottage settlements in the Koncha Zaspa area have become the main residence of the richest citizens of Ukraine. This led to the complete transformation of this settlement into a network of gated communities. Thus, a new structure of population distribution in the city agglomeration is gradually forming. It is presented on the map of accommodation of cottage settlements among traditional urban and rural settlements.
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10

Boxall, Peter C., David O. Watson, and Jeffrey Englin. "Backcountry recreationists' valuation of forest and park management features in wilderness parks of the western Canadian Shield." Canadian Journal of Forest Research 26, no. 6 (June 1, 1996): 982–90. http://dx.doi.org/10.1139/x26-108.

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The economic value of four forest ecosystems, fire-damaged forests, cut blocks, and several park management features was estimated for backcountry recreationists, primarily canoeists, in Nopiming Provincial Park in eastern Manitoba. The analysis was conducted using the travel cost random utility model. It revealed that the forest ecosystems associated with jack pine (Pinusbanksiana Lamb.) and white spruce (Piceaglauca (Moench) Voss) were valued by recreationists. On the other hand, the analysis predicted that recreationists would pay to avoid black spruce (Piceamariana (Mill.) BSP) and aspen (Populustremuloides Michx.) ecosystems, fire-damaged forests, portages, and cottages. The results provide weak statistical evidence that cut blocks that are not in the line of site of recreationists provide positive benefits. While park management variables play a role in determining recreation values, the ages and types of forests located at recreation sites are more important. These findings support a major role for fire in determining recreation economic benefit flows from forests in the Canadian Shield.
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11

Soszyński, Dawid, Andrzej Tucki, Renata Krukowska, and Cyprian Jaruga. "PROBLEMS OF SECOND-HOME SPATIAL DEVELOPMENT IN PROTECTED AREAS. POLESIE NATIONAL PARK CASE STUDY." Folia Turistica 44 (September 30, 2017): 49–62. http://dx.doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0010.8727.

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Purpose. To show the scale and direction of recreational housing development within an area with high natural value. Steps to ensure the sustainable development of tourist settlement are discussed. Method. GIS analysis was performed based on archival and current orthophotomaps and planning documents existing at the municipal level complemented by field inventory. Additionally, interviews with residents on PNP were employed. Findings. Four main categories of recreational housing were distinguished in the study area: compact second home estates around lakes, second home estates “attached” to villages; dispersed second homes, and old and new buildings integrated with the spatial layout of a village. The last category can be regarded as the most advantageous from an ecological, landscape and functional perspective but, unfortunately, it is the least common. The intensive development of the other categories poses a threat to the natural and tourist assets of a region. The area of recreational housing in the study area increased from 26 ha in 1992 to 156 ha in 2013, mainly in the form of separate, second-home estates. Another 169 ha have been designated for recreational housing in the current planning documents. Most of the new areas are in the immediate vicinity of the national park boundary or on lakeshores. In view of such planning arrangements, one can expect further development of the negative trends in the expansion of recreational housing and degradation of the natural and tourist assets in other areas. Research limitations and conclusions. The quantitative analysis outside PNP did not include the number of old cottages converted into recreational homes. Practical implications. The results show that greater emphasis on hierarchical planning is necessary, starting from the boundaries of the entire West Polesie Biosphere Reserve to the municipality level. The comprehensive planning of entire tourist destinations, integrating permanent and seasonal settlements and taking into account the protection of nature as well as the most valuable tourist attractions, is no less important. At the same time, more stringent limits should be imposed on dispersed housing and monofunctional tourist housing enclaves. Originality. The phenomena described coincide with trends showed by other authors but it seems that compared to other parts of Poland, the scale of negative spatial phenomenon is higher, and according to other countries the role of spatial planning in coordinating second-home development is much smaller. Type of paper. The article is a case study based on cartographic quantitative analysis.
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12

Visser, Thomas D., and Bryant F. Tolles. "Summer Cottages in the White Mountains: The Architecture of Leisure and Recreation, 1870 to 1930." APT Bulletin 32, no. 2/3 (2001): 75. http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/1504744.

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13

Morgan, Marie, and Bryant F. Tolles. "Summer Cottages in the White Mountains: The Architecture of Leisure and Recreation, 1870 to 1930." New England Quarterly 74, no. 3 (September 2001): 523. http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/3185437.

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14

Morgan, Marie, and Bryant F. Tolles. "Summer Cottages in the White Mountains: The Architecture of Leisure and Recreation, 1870 to 1930." New England Quarterly 74, no. 2 (June 2001): 317. http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/3185481.

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15

Emelyanova, E. K., and N. V. Goroshko. "The Ob River Pine Forest in Novosibirsk: Past, Present, and Problems." Bulletin of Kemerovo State University 22, no. 3 (October 29, 2020): 595–606. http://dx.doi.org/10.21603/2078-8975-2020-22-3-595-606.

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From the very beginning of Novosibirsk (pre-revolutionary Novonikolaevsk), the ribbon of the Ob River pine forest began to dwindle as a result of man-induced activity, e.g. logging, wood clearing, construction of dugouts and houses, etc. The small rivers that flew through the forest were used for quarries and water mills. As a result, the intensive industrial development disturbed the terrain and provoked revinement. Subsequently, the abandoned intracity park zones of the relict forest were transformed into residential, business, and industrial areas, such as Alhambra, Mikhailovsky Grove, etc. The quality of the forest stand during the period of industrialization was affected by the technogenic load from industrial enterprises that had no sewage treatment plants. An ill-conceived green policy led to the loss of the environment-forming function of the Novosibirsk pine forest, because only small areas of it remained within the city boundaries. The once green banks of small rivers that flew into the Ob preserved the last remains of the pine forest. However, they were destroyed, as the rivers were placed in underground pipelines, the ravines were washed away, and infill construction flourished. At the moment, the remaining green areas fail to perform the main function of urban forests: they neither reduce the negative environmental load, nor reproduce themselves. In addition, they make poor recreational areas. The remaining relic pine forest and other green areas continue to experience both direct and indirect negative impact, e.g. deforestation, air and water pollution, etc. The largest preserved site of the Ob River pine forest is the Zaeltsovsky public park. Located to the north of the Yeltsovka-2 (Bolshoi) River, it has been used for summer cottages, recreation, and foraging mushrooms and berries since the XIX century. The article gives a historical retrospective of the reduction in the area of the Ob River pine forest and its causes. It also describes the Comfortable Urban Environment project aimed at preserving green areas and pine forests.
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Rim,Choon-Seek and 김승훈. "An Introductory Review on Advantages and Old Life Benefits of Staying at Portable Recreational Vehicle Cottages in America and Canada." Korean Journal of Gerontological Social Welfare ll, no. 62 (December 2013): 383–406. http://dx.doi.org/10.21194/kjgsw..62.201312.383.

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17

Nagaeva, Z. S., V. V. Zhivitsa, and A. I. Malakhovskaya. "ANALYSIS OF SANATORIUM-RESORT COMPLEXES OF THE SOUTHERN COAST OF CRIMEA IN ORDER TO DERIVE GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THEIR RECONSTRUCTION." Construction and industrial safety, no. 20(72) (2021): 5–13. http://dx.doi.org/10.37279/2413-1873-2021-20-5-13.

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This paper examines and analyzes the history of the development of the sanatorium and tourism industry in the Crimea, analyzes the sanatorium and resort complexes of the southern coast of Crimea and gives recommendations for their reconstruction. The paper highlights 5 characteristic periods of development of the Spa industry in the Crimea. The first period-the beginning of the XIX century. - 1917-the time of origin of the sanatorium and tourism industry in the Crimea. The appearance of the first Crimean resorts and sanatoriums mud treatment in Saki. During this period, opened: boarding house "Darsan" (1897, Yalta), sanatorium in honor of the Emperor Alexander III (1900, village. Massandra), sanatorium. Empress Maria Feodorovna (1910, Yalta). The second period-1917-1944 - was the period of formation of the socialist system of Spa treatment and recreation. At this time, palaces, cottages, mansions were given over to sanatoriums for workers and peasants. The third period-1944-1950 (post-war time) - the period of restoration of sanatorium-resort complexes. The fourth period – 1951-1990. during this period, a powerful system of planned recreation and tourism was formed in the Crimea. The fifth period-1991 – present. Since the late 90's, the number of private boarding houses, recreation centers, and hotels has increased significantly. However, many of them do not meet regulatory requirements, international standards and expectations of tourists. Considered Spa complexes are located on the territory of the southern coast of Crimea. These institutions are United by one feature: the presence in its composition of cultural heritage and buildings of the Soviet period, which do not have artistic expression. The article analyzes the shortcomings of Spa complexes and gives recommendations for their reconstruction.
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Imam Faisal Pane and Maria Isabella Zebua. "DESIGNING BEACHSIDE RESORT AT PANTAI INDAH KALANGAN, CENTRAL TAPANULI WITH VERNACULAR ARCHITECTURE APPROACHMENT." Jurnal Koridor 10, no. 1 (January 30, 2019): 1–5. http://dx.doi.org/10.32734/koridor.v10i1.1379.

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Central Tapanuli is known for many stunning tourist locations, mainly its stretch of beach so that it becomes a great potential as an area of tourism with adequate accommodation as well as resorts. Some problems in the design resort that attract the attention and interest of tourist to come, how to design space programs according to human needs in it, and how to design buildings that are responsive to local climate, cultural and social conditions. From these problems, it is intended to create resorts with a variety of recreational facilities, design inner spaces and outdoor spaces according to resorts needs and local wisdom, and can introduce local culture to foreign tourists through resort design. Therefore, the research conducted by collecting existing location information, literature studies, comparative studies, and field surveys. After doing each step above, the result obtained, namely the design of the Beachside Resort using vernacular architecture, which is applied to each form of resort building, ranging from hotel, restaurant, cottages, spa and sauna, and other supporting facilities, using the types of the Central Tapanuli household, combined with the application of “Dalihan Natolu”. By obtaining these result, it is expected to become tourism locations and become a positive response in bringing back the traditional architecture of Central Tapanuli.
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Sharov, Sergey Yu. "Resources for rural settlement development in modern Russia." POPULATION 23, no. 3 (2020): 109–18. http://dx.doi.org/10.19181/population.2020.23.3.10.

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In the 21st century, rural population in Russia as a whole continues to decline. However, different levels of urbanization and different rates of its change across regions indicate the heterogeneity of processes and the influence of many factors. The main trends are completion of the withering away of the traditional rural lifestyle, mixing urban and rural lifestyles in the suburbs with predominance of the former (summer cottages, cottages), gravitation of rural economic activity towards the zones of influence of agglomerations, development of an economic base not related to agriculture: seasonal work, tourism and recreation, traditional crafts, remote work, creative projects. Technological progress, development of means of online dissemination of technologies and know-how, withdrawal of industrial production from large cities and their miniaturization allow us to discuss the prospects for development of industries in rural areas that satisfy a significant part of the local demand for consumer goods and the need for certain types of equipment. The course towards a reasonable regional economic autonomy will allow increasing the proportion of local agricultural products in the regional diet, which also requires development of cooperation of small agricultural producers and diversification of sales channels. To ensure competitiveness of rural areas as a habitat in relation to cities, it is necessary to ensure connectivity of those areas with central localities and provision of modern infrastructure, amenities, access to education, healthcare and high culture. This can be facilitated by modern solutions that are currently at varying degrees of implementation in different countries of the world (such as distance forms of education, healthcare, exhibitions, performances; crowdfunding projects) and by the solutions from the recent past that have not found sufficient implementation (for example, local aviation, regional tours of artists and performers).
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Saktaganova, Z. G., and Zh K. Abdukarimova. "Recreational activities for children of the Karaganda region during the winter and summer holidays during the great Patriotic war." BULLETIN of L.N. Gumilyov Eurasian National University. HISTORICAL SCIENCES. PHILOSOPHY. RELIGION Series 135, no. 2 (2021): 63–78. http://dx.doi.org/10.32523/2616-7255-2021-135-2-63-78.

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The article examines health-improving campaigns in the Kazakh SSR in 1941-1945. The purpose of this article is to study and analyze health campaigns for children of the Karaganda region during school holidays during the Great Patriotic War, as well as their impact on the health of children in difficult wartime conditions. The authors enter into scientific circulation the data of the State Archives of the Karaganda Region, the Archives of the President of the Republic of Kazakhstan, as well as the State Archives of the Russian Federation. Tables are given on health-improving campaigns in the Kazakh SSR, an analysis is given of the types of health improvement of children in the republic, planned and implemented in fact, as well as an analysis of the reasons for under-fulfillment or over-fulfillment of the plan in the regions of the republic. The novelty of this research is that the authors turn to the regional aspect of the history of children’s everyday life during the Great Patriotic War. To date, there are no special studies on this issue, showing the importance of campaigns to improve the health of children during the winter and summer holidays. In addition to improving the health of children, the importance of these campaigns to prevent neglect in the children’s environment during the vacation time is emphasized, since the parents of most children were at work from morning to evening and did not have the physical opportunity to organize their children’s leisure time. Despite the fact that during the war years there were financial, material and technical, personnel difficulties, the country’s leadership understood that taking care of the health of young citizens those days was the key to success and stability in the future and took measures to improve the health of children ... One of those measures was health campaigns, which included such activities as the work of pioneer camps, recreation sites, sanatorium-type camps, paramilitary camps, transportation to summer cottages, enhanced nutrition, in which schoolchildren, inmates of orphanages, baby homes, children attending nurseries and kindergartens spent time. Nevertheless, despite all the difficulties and shortcomings of the organizational aspects, health-improving campaigns yielded positive results in improving the health of Soviet children during the Great Patriotic War.
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Reiff, Daniel D. "Review: Summer Cottages in the White Mountains: The Architecture of Leisure and Recreation, 1870 to 1930 by Bryant F. Tolles, Jr." Journal of the Society of Architectural Historians 62, no. 1 (March 1, 2003): 157–59. http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/3655104.

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STAVSKA, Yulia. "THE GREEN TOURISM AS A DIRECTION OF DEVELOPMENT OF RURAL AREAS." "EСONOMY. FINANСES. MANAGEMENT: Topical issues of science and practical activity", no. 1 (41) (January 2019): 83–95. http://dx.doi.org/10.37128/2411-4413-2019-1-7.

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Ukraine, choosing its strategic course of integration into the European Union, took the time to accelerate the reform of various spheres of socio-political and economic life of the country, in particular, the sphere of tourism services, transforming it into the standards of the European Union. The world-wide experience of progressive management gives tourism the first place among other sectors of the economy in terms of exports of goods and services. In conditions of development of the Ukrainian state, tourism becomes an effective means of forming a market mechanism of management, the receipt of significant funds to the state budget, one of the forms of rational use of free time, conducting meaningful leisure, studying the history of the native land, attracting the general population to the knowledge of the historical and cultural heritage. Current experience and scientific research show that accelerated development of rural green tourism can play the role of a catalyst for structural adjustment of the economy, provide demographic stability and solve urgent socio-economic problems in rural areas. It is important for Ukraine to overcome the gap in this area and realize the existing rich tourism potential through an elaborate policy of state regulation, including at the regional level. One of the reasons for the rapid development of rural green tourism in Europe is the crisis in the agricultural sector. Today, the process of productivity and automation of agriculture leads to jobs reduction. In fact, in many rural regions of Europe, agriculture has ceased to be the most important form of land use and the most important activity of the rural community. The rural green tourism is closely linked with other types of tourism, primarily with recreational, cultural, specialized tourism types – relief, gastronomy, ethno-tourism, etc. All this allows rural tourism to be included in combined tours, increasing the demand for a traditional tourist product. The rural green tourism in Ukraine is a holiday of the inhabitants of the city in the countryside in guest rooms created by a village family on the basis of its own residential house and private plot. As entrepreneurial activity, rural green tourism develops rather heterogeneously in different regions of Ukraine. Systematization of motivational interests of the rural green tourism activation in the regions of Ukraine showed that the dominant motives for diversification of activities in agricultural sector in the current conditions of rural areas development are: increase of incomes of rural population and increase of employment level, the possibility of diversification of income sources of peasants, significant investments and additional training, opportunities for self-realization of rural inhabitants. Priority directions of development of green tourism in these regions in the near future should be: reception and accommodation of tourists; rental of tourist equipment; production and sale of tourist goods of folk crafts; provision of tourist services (bicycle, gastronomy, agrotourism, cultural and historical tourism, organization of recreational recreation, mountain and ecological tourism); organization of tasting and culinary excursions; active development of the hotel business, camping (construction of agricultural cottages, fishing houses, farmhouses, horse farms); organization of historical and ethnographic events; distribution of religious tours; providing a complex of widely distributed services (fishing, hunting, picking berries and mushrooms, medicinal plants, etc.); development and popularization of water sports (kiting, windsurfing). The research of the current conditions for the development of green tourism in the regions of Ukraine allowed to outline the area of the key problems that hinder the active expansion of this type of activity: - disorderly legislation on key aspects of tourism business regulation in rural areas; lack of a law regulating this type of activity; - low level of development of the infrastructure of the market of green tourism services and social infrastructure of the village; - outdated stereotypes of rural residents, which hinder the active development of the newest types of tourism industry, the pronounced unsystematic and irregular nature of services; - absence of state programs supporting development of green tourism and limited amount of their financial, consulting and information-marketing support; - low level of informatization and popularization of green tourism in the regions of Ukraine among the population of European countries; - lack of political stability and social tension in society, deterioration of the world image of Ukraine. Thus, Ukraine has a rather powerful potential for the development of green tourism as an alternative type of agribusiness in the regions of Ukraine. In the context of modern economic conditions, solving key problems of development of green tourism forms the fundamental framework for addressing the most important socio-economic issues of rural areas: overcoming unemployment, promoting employment, raising incomes and quality of life for rural inhabitants.
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WILLIAMS, PETER W. "Bryant F. Tolles, Jr., Summer Cottages in the White Mountains: The Architecture of Leisure and Recreation, 1870 to 1930 (Hanover, NH: University Press of New England, 2000, $50). Pp. 318. ISBN 0 87451 953 5." Journal of American Studies 36, no. 3 (December 2002): 513–70. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s002187580264695x.

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Boychuk, B., A. Kuzyk, and L. Sysa. "EVALUATING THE ANTHROPOGENIC IMPACT ON THE PRUT RIVER NEAR YAREMCHE-TOWN ON THE POLLUTION LEVEL INDICES OF BOTTOM SEDIMENTS." Bulletin of Lviv State University of Life Safety 23 (June 30, 2021): 5–10. http://dx.doi.org/10.32447/20784643.23.2021.01.

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Introduction. One of the most objective and reliable indicators of the state of pollution of the aquatic environment and the overall level of technological load on it is the content of pollutants in bottom sediments (BS). There are no large industrial enterprises in and around Yaremche-town (Ivano-Frankivsk region), so there are no significant discharges of toxic substances into the sewage system, especially directly into the river. However, every year in this picturesque cornerof Prykarpattia the number of sanatoriums, recreation centres, cottage towns and just residential buildings grows. Accord-ingly, the Prut River, which is the pearl of this region, quite often gets untreated runoff, which pollutes not only water but also settles on bottom sediments.The purpose of this study was to assess the anthropogenic load on the Prut River based on a comprehensive environmental analysis of the state of pollution of the bottom sediments of this river upstream and downstream from Yaremche.Methods. Water extracts from bottom sediments were prepared by the recommendations of the relevant regula-tions in the ratio "bottom sediments - water" as 1: 5 in terms of the dry mass of bottom sediments. Laboratory study of hydrochemical parameters of selected samples was performed by gravimetric, titrimetric, photometric and other methods of analysis.Research results. The accumulation of ammonium salts, nitrites and nitrates, which are easily soluble, in the far above the discharge site of wastewater, is obviously due to the significant sorption properties of river sludge, which prevents these ions from being washed away by the flow. At the point of discharge of wastewater from the city, the content of these ions increases and reaches a maximum at point 3 - at a distance of approx. 100 m below the discharge site. Further downstream, their number systematically decreases. A similar distribution of concentrations is observed in the case of phosphates. Their source of getting into the river also, for the most part, belongs to the housing and communal services. A significant contribution to the increased phosphate content in the sample below the discharge is made by urban wastewater, in which even after treatment the concentration of phosphate ions remains quite high. The fact of the presence of oil products in the bottom sediments at the investigated area was revealed. The constant increase in the number of road transport on the banks of this resort river inevitably leads to the ingress of products of incomplete combustion of fuel, uncontrolled spills.Conclusions. Upstream from the place of discharge into the Prut River of treated wastewater in the city of Yaremche, the concentrations of salts-pollutants of the biogenic group are formed due to uncontrolled sources of domestic sew-age. In this area, the pollution of bottom sediments is insignificant, slightly higher at the discharge site, and they are of the greatest importance below the discharge. This fact indicates the growing anthropogenic impact of coastal cities on the state of the river and in general, and pollution of bottom sediments, in particular. For the first time oil products were found in bottom sediments in the studied area. The reason for this phenomenon is the constant increase in the number of vehicles on the banks of this river.
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"Cottage country in transition: a social geography of change and contention in the rural-recreational countryside." Choice Reviews Online 37, no. 01 (September 1, 1999): 37–0517. http://dx.doi.org/10.5860/choice.37-0517.

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"Typifying rural landscapes of the suburban district of Odesa." Human Geography Journal, no. 28 (2020). http://dx.doi.org/10.26565/2076-1333-2020-28-08.

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Elements of the rural natural landscape have the great significance for the residents of the city and suburban area in terms of their functionality, sanitary, aesthetic and environmental criteria. Counting the huge influence of the city on the socio-economic development of the suburban area, there are huge changes in the natural environment of the suburb, rural landscapes, which perform various functions, which determines the need for their study, accounting, evaluation, protection and conditions of transformation. The article analyses approaches to the study of types of rural landscapes, criteria for their typing, taking into account economic (agricultural), social (population density, pendulum migration) and environmental (fertility, soil degradation, man-made load) indicators. As a result of the study, the types of rural landscapes of the suburbs of Odesa were determined: disturbed landscapes (geographically these landscapes are located in close proximity to the city border and are characterized by active construction, including elite cottage buildings, a large percentage of pendulum migrations, industrial and infrastructural functions and a small number of recreational facilities); degraded (neglected landscapes-characterized by eroded soils, with low yields. There are abandoned plots of countryside house cooperatives. There are slopes, ravines, and gullies in the terrain); agricultural (occupy almost half of the territory of the adjacent administrative districts. The zone of influence of the city has become a prerequisite for active farming, development of processing industry); recreational (valuable – are formed mainly from water and forest resources with recreational objects aimed at the development of tourism. The main reasons for changing landscapes in the suburbs should be called: excessive unjustified use of natural resources: soil, reservoirs, forests; soil and water pollution; removal of garbage and waste from cities to unorganized landfills; non-compliance with crop rotation rules; improperly applied mineral fertilizers and pesticides; extremely high anthropogenic load on individual territories. This study can serve as a starting point for the formation of typology, planning the development of suburban territories, including the development of tourism within them. We consider it appropriate not only the selection of the types of rural landscapes of the suburbs, but also conduct appropriate zoning, given its features and landscape types for sustainable management, conservation and restoration of natural resources (land, water, forest), efficient use of land taking into account geoecological situation.
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Lonnie, Marta, Lidia Wadolowska, Joanna Kowalkowska, and Elzbieta Bandurska-Stankiewicz. "Sociodemographic and family correlates of dietary-lifestyle patterns in young men: cross-sectional study (MeDiSH Project)." Proceedings of the Nutrition Society 79, OCE2 (2020). http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0029665120001512.

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AbstractThe aim of this study was to identify the sociodemographic and family correlates associated with dietary and lifestyle patterns in young men. In all, 367 men from the Warmia and Mazury region (Poland), aged 19–40 years old participated in the study. Data regarding sociodemographic, family status, dietary and lifestyle characteristics were collected through structured interviews using food frequency questionnaire KomPAN (Jezewska-Zychowicz et al. 2018, http://www.knozc.pan.pl). Dietary and lifestyle patterns were derived using Principal Component Analysis (PCA). In total, 25 dietary and 6 lifestyle standardised variables were included in the PCA. The associations were verified using logistic regression. Four DLPs were derived, explaining 33% of the variance. Men from the upper tertile of “Protein food, fried-food and recreational physical activity” pattern (characterised by frequent intake of white meat, white rice, eggs, red meat, fried food, groats, higher number of meals a day and recreational activity) were more likely to be under 30 years old (odds ratio, OR = 2.20, 95% confidence interval, 95%CI: 1.30–3.70) than men from the bottom tertile. Men from the upper tertile of “Sandwiches and convenience foods” pattern (characterised by frequent intake of cold meats and smoked sausages, white bread, butter, cheese, sweets and tinned meat) were more likely to be in a relationship (1.95, 1.14–3.34) than men from the bottom tertile. Men from the upper tertile of “Fast foods and stimulants” pattern (characterised by frequent intake of sweetened beverages, energy drinks, alcohol, fast foods, and smoking currently or/and in the past) were more likely to be under 30 years old (2.46, 1.46–4.14), to live in towns and rural areas (2.07, 1.21–3.55) and to have lower educational level (2.01, 1.20–3.36) in comparison to men from the bottom tertile. Men from the upper tertile of “Healthy diet, activity at work, former smoking” pattern (characterised by frequent intake of fruit, vegetables, fermented milk products, wholegrain bread, fish, cottage cheese, milk, groats, legumes, higher number of meals a day, physical activity at work and smoking in the past) were more likely to work physically (2.06, 1.22–3.47) and be in a relationship (1.93, 1.12–3.32). Sociodemographic and family correlates were strongly associated with dietary and lifestyle patterns, both healthy and unhealthy, in our sample of young men. The results demonstrate that diet and lifestyle interventions should be particularly targeted at men under 30 years old, those living in small towns and rural areas and with lower educational level.
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"Chances, Trances, and Lots of Slots: Gambling Motives and Consumption Experiences. June Cotte. Journal of Leisure Research, vol. 29, no. 4,1997, pp. 380-406. Membership/ Subscription Department, Journal of Leisure Research, National Recreation and Park Association, 22377 Belmont Ridge Road, Ashburn, VA 20148-4501. $40 annual subscription." Journal of Travel Research 37, no. 1 (August 1998): 87. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/004728759803700157.

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Wasser, Frederick. "Media Is Driving Work." M/C Journal 4, no. 5 (November 1, 2001). http://dx.doi.org/10.5204/mcj.1935.

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My thesis is that new media, starting with analog broadcast and going through digital convergence, blur the line between work time and free time. The technology that we are adopting has transformed free time into potential and actual labour time. At the dawn of the modern age, work shifted from tasked time to measured time. Previously, tasked time intermingled work and leisure according to the vagaries of nature. All this was banished when industrial capitalism instituted the work clock (Mumford 12-8). But now, many have noticed how post-industrial capitalism features a new intermingling captured in such expressions as "24/7" and "multi-tasking." Yet, we are only beginning to understand that media are driving a return to the pre-modern where the hour and the space are both ambiguous, available for either work or leisure. This may be the unfortunate side effect of the much vaunted "interactivity." Do you remember the old American TV show Dobie Gillis (1959-63) which featured the character Maynard G. Krebs? He always shuddered at the mention of the four-letter word "work." Now, American television shows makes it a point that everyone works (even if just barely). Seinfeld was a bold exception in featuring the work-free Kramer; a deliberate homage to the 1940s team of Abbott and Costello. Today, as welfare is turned into workfare, The New York Times scolds even the idle rich to adopt the work ethic (Yazigi). The Forms of Broadcast and Digital Media Are Driving the Merger of Work and Leisure More than the Content It is not just the content of television and other media that is undermining the leisured life; it is the social structure within which we use the media. Broadcast advertisements were the first mode/media combinations that began to recolonise free time for the new consumer economy. There had been a previous buildup in the volume and the ubiquity of advertising particularly in billboards and print. However, the attention of the reader to the printed commercial message could not be controlled and measured. Radio was the first to appropriate and measure its audience's time for the purposes of advertising. Nineteenth century media had promoted a middle class lifestyle based on spending money on home to create a refuge from work. Twentieth century broadcasting was now planting commercial messages within that refuge in the sacred moments of repose. Subsequent to broadcast, home video and cable facilitated flexible work by offering entertainment on a 24 hour basis. Finally, the computer, which juxtaposes image/sound/text within a single machine, offers the user the same proto-interactive blend of entertainment and commercial messages that broadcasting pioneered. It also fulfills the earlier promise of interactive TV by allowing us to work and to shop, in all parts of the day and night. We need to theorise this movement. The theory of media as work needs an institutional perspective. Therefore, I begin with Dallas Smythe's blindspot argument, which gave scholarly gravitas to the structural relationship of work and media (263-299). Horkheimer and Adorno had already noticed that capitalism was extending work into free time (137). Dallas Smythe went on to dissect the precise means by which late capitalism was extending work. Smythe restates the Marxist definition of capitalist labour as that human activity which creates exchange value. Then he considered the advertising industry, which currently approaches200 billion in the USA and realised that a great deal of exchange value has been created. The audience is one element of the labour that creates this exchange value. The appropriation of people's time creates advertising value. The time we spend listening to commercials on radio or viewing them on TV can be measured and is the unit of production for the value of advertising. Our viewing time ipso facto has been changed into work time. We may not experience it subjectively as work time although pundits such as Marie Winn and Jerry Mander suggest that TV viewing contributes to the same physical stresses as actual work. Nonetheless, Smythe sees commercial broadcasting as expanding the realm of capitalism into time that was otherwise set aside for private uses. Smythe's essay created a certain degree of excitement among political economists of media. Sut Jhally used Smythe to explain aspects of US broadcast history such as the innovations of William Paley in creating the CBS network (Jhally 70-9). In 1927, as Paley contemplated winning market share from his rival NBC, he realised that selling audience time was far more profitable than selling programs. Therefore, he paid affiliated stations to air his network's programs while NBC was still charging them for the privilege. It was more lucrative to Paley to turn around and sell the stations' guaranteed time to advertisers, than to collect direct payments for supplying programs. NBC switched to his business model within a year. Smythe/Jhally's model explains the superiority of Paley's model and is a historical proof of Smythe's thesis. Nonetheless, many economists and media theorists have responded with a "so what?" to Smythe's thesis that watching TV as work. Everyone knows that the basis of network television is the sale of "eyeballs" to the advertisers. However, Smythe's thesis remains suggestive. Perhaps he arrived at it after working at the U.S. Federal Communications Commission from 1943 to 1948 (Smythe 2). He was part of a team that made one last futile attempt to force radio to embrace public interest programming. This effort failed because the tide of consumerism was too strong. Radio and television were the leading edge of recapturing the home for work, setting the stage for the Internet and a postmodern replication of the cottage industries of pre and proto-industrial worlds. The consequences have been immense. The Depression and the crisis of over-production Cultural studies recognises that social values have shifted from production to consumption (Lash and Urry). The shift has a crystallising moment in the Great Depression of 1929 through 1940. One proposal at the time was to reduce individual work hours in order to create more jobs (see Hunnicut). This proposal of "share the work" was not adopted. From the point of view of the producer, sharing the work would make little difference to productivity. However, from the retailer's perspective each individual worker would accumulate less money to buy products. Overall sales would stagnate or decline. Prominent American economists at the time argued that sharing the work would mean sharing the unemployment. They warned the US government this was a fundamental threat to an economy based on consumption. Only a fully employed laborer could have enough money to buy down the national inventory. In 1932, N. A. Weston told the American Economic Association that: " ...[the labourers'] function in society as a consumer is of equal importance as the part he plays as a producer." (Weston 11). If the defeat of the share the work movement is the negative manifestation of consumerism, then the invasion by broadcast of our leisure time is its positive materialisation. We can trace this understanding by looking at Herbert Hoover. When he was the Secretary of Commerce in 1924 he warned station executives that: "I have never believed that it was possible to advertise through broadcasting without ruining the [radio] industry" (Radio's Big Issue). He had not recognised that broadcast advertising would be qualitatively more powerful for the economy than print advertising. By 1929, Hoover, now President Hoover, approved an economics committee recommendation in the traumatic year of 1929 that leisure time be made "consumable " (Committee on Recent Economic Changes xvi). His administration supported the growth of commercial radio because broadcasting was a new efficient answer to the economists' question of how to motivate consumption. Not so coincidentally network radio became a profitable industry during the great Depression. The economic power that pre-war radio hinted at flourished in the proliferation of post-war television. Advertisers switched their dollars from magazines to TV, causing the demise of such general interest magazines as Life, The Saturday Evening Postet al. Western Europe quickly followed the American broadcasting model. Great Britain was the first, allowing television to advertise the consumer revolution in 1955. Japan and many others started to permit advertising on television. During the era of television, the nature of work changed from manufacturing to servicing (Preston 148-9). Two working parents also became the norm as a greater percentage of the population took salaried employment, mostly women (International Labour Office). Many of the service jobs are to monitor the new global division of labour that allows industrialised nations to consume while emerging nations produce. (Chapter seven of Preston is the most current discussion of the shift of jobs within information economies and between industrialised and emerging nations.) Flexible Time/ Flexible Media Film and television has responded by depicting these shifts. The Mary Tyler Moore Show debuted in September of 1970 (see http://www.transparencynow.com/mary.htm). In this show nurturing and emotional attachments were centered in the work place, not in an actual biological family. It started a trend that continues to this day. However, media representations of the changing nature of work are merely symptomatic of the relationship between media and work. Broadcast advertising has a more causal relationship. As people worked more to buy more, they found that they wanted time-saving media. It is in this time period that the Internet started (1968), that the video cassette recorder was introduced (1975) and that the cable industry grew. Each of these ultimately enhanced the flexibility of work time. The VCR allowed time shifting programs. This is the media answer to the work concept of flexible time. The tired worker can now see her/his favourite TV show according to his/her own flex schedule (Wasser 2001). Cable programming, with its repeats and staggered starting times, also accommodates the new 24/7 work day. These machines, offering greater choice of programming and scheduling, are the first prototypes of interactivity. The Internet goes further in expanding flexible time by adding actual shopping to the vicarious enjoyment of consumerist products on television. The Internet user continues to perform the labour of watching advertising and, in addition, now has the opportunity to do actual work tasks at any time of the day or night. The computer enters the home as an all-purpose machine. Its purchase is motivated by several simultaneous factors. The rhetoric often stresses the recreational and work aspects of the computer in the same breath (Reed 173, Friedrich 16-7). Games drove the early computer programmers to find more "user-friendly" interfaces in order to entice young consumers. Entertainment continues to be the main driving force behind visual and audio improvements. This has been true ever since the introduction of the Apple II, Radio Shack's TRS 80 and Atari 400 personal computers in the 1977-1978 time frame (see http://www.atari-history.com/computers/8bits/400.html). The current ubiquity of colour monitors, and the standard package of speakers with PC computers are strong indications that entertainment and leisure pursuits continue to drive the marketing of computers. However, once the computer is in place in the study or bedroom, its uses fully integrates the user with world of work in both the sense of consuming and creating value. This is a specific instance of what Philip Graham calls the analytical convergence of production, consumption and circulation in hypercapitalism. The streaming video and audio not only captures the action of the game, they lend sensual appeal to the banner advertising and the power point downloads from work. In one regard, the advent of Internet advertising is a regression to the pre-broadcast era. The passive web site ad runs the same risk of being ignored as does print advertising. The measure of a successful web ad is interactivity that most often necessitates a click through on the part of the viewer. Ads often show up on separate windows that necessitate a click from the viewer if only to close down the program. In the words of Bolter and Grusin, click-through advertising is a hypermediation of television. In other words, it makes apparent the transparent relationship television forged between work and leisure. We do not sit passively through Internet advertising, we click to either eliminate them or to go on and buy the advertised products. Just as broadcasting facilitated consumable leisure, new media combines consumable leisure with flexible portable work. The new media landscape has had consequences, although the price of consumable leisure took awhile to become visible. The average work week declined from 1945 to 1982. After that point in the US, it has been edging up, continuously (United States Bureau of Labor Statistics). There is some question whether the computer has improved productivity (Kim), there is little question that the computer is colonising leisure time for multi-tasking. In a population that goes online from home almost twice as much as those who go online from work, almost half use their online time for work based activities other than email. Undoubtedly, email activity would account for even more work time (Horrigan). On the other side of the blur between work and leisure, the Pew Institute estimates that fifty percent use work Internet time for personal pleasure ("Wired Workers"). Media theory has to reengage the problem that Horkheimer/Adorno/Smythe raised. The contemporary problem of leisure is not so much the lack of leisure, but its fractured, non-contemplative, unfulfilling nature. A media critique will demonstrate the contribution of the TV and the Internet to this erosion of free time. References Bolter, Jay David, and Richard Grusin. Remediation: Understanding New Media. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press, 2000. Committee on Recent Economic Changes. Recent Economic Changes. Vol. 1. New York: no publisher listed, 1929. Friedrich, Otto. "The Computer Moves In." Time 3 Jan. 1983: 14-24. Graham, Philip. Hypercapitalism: A Political Economy of Informational Idealism. In press for New Media and Society2.2 (2000). Horkheimer, Max, and Theodor W. Adorno. Dialectic of Enlightenment. New York: Continuum Publishing, 1944/1987. Horrigan, John B. "New Internet Users: What They Do Online, What They Don't and Implications for the 'Net's Future." Pew Internet and American Life Project. 25 Sep. 2000. 24 Oct. 2001 <http://www.pewinternet.org/reports/toc.asp?Report=22>. Hunnicutt, Benjamin Kline. Work without End: Abandoning Shorter Hours for the Right to Work. Philadelphia: Temple UP, 1988. International Labour Office. Economically Active Populations: Estimates and Projections 1950-2025. Geneva: ILO, 1995. Jhally, Sut. The Codes of Advertising. New York: St. Martin's Press, 1987. Kim, Jane. "Computers and the Digital Economy." Digital Economy 1999. 8 June 1999. October 24, 2001 <http://www.digitaleconomy.gov/powerpoint/triplett/index.htm>. Lash, Scott, and John Urry. Economies of Signs and Space. London: Sage Publications, 1994. Mander, Jerry. Four Arguments for the Elimination of Television. New York: Morrow Press, 1978. Mumford, Lewis. Technics and Civilization. New York: Harcourt Brace, 1934. Preston, Paschal. Reshaping Communication: Technology, Information and Social Change. London: Sage, 2001. "Radio's Big Issue Who Is to Pay the Artist?" The New York Times 18 May 1924: Section 8, 3. Reed, Lori. "Domesticating the Personal Computer." Critical Studies in Media Communication17 (2000): 159-85. Smythe, Dallas. Counterclockwise: Perspectives on Communication. Boulder, CO: Westview Press, 1993. United States Bureau of Labor Statistics. Unpublished Data from the Current Population Survey. 2001. Wasser, Frederick A. Veni, Vidi, Video: The Hollywood Empire and the VCR. Austin, TX: U of Texas P, 2001. Weston, N.A., T.N. Carver, J.P. Frey, E.H. Johnson, T.R. Snavely and F.D. Tyson. "Shorter Working Time and Unemployment." American Economic Review Supplement 22.1 (March 1932): 8-15. <http://links.jstor.org/sici?sici=0002-8282%28193203%2922%3C8%3ASWTAU%3E2.0.CO%3B2-3>. Winn, Marie. The Plug-in Drug. New York: Viking Press, 1977. "Wired Workers: Who They Are, What They're Doing Online." Pew Internet Life Report 3 Sep. 2000. 24 Oct. 2000 <http://www.pewinternet.org/reports/toc.asp?Report=20>. Yazigi, Monique P. "Shocking Visits to the Real World." The New York Times 21 Feb. 1990. Page unknown. Links http://www.pewinternet.org/reports/toc.asp?Report=20 http://www.pewinternet.org/reports/toc.asp?Report=22 http://www.atari-history.com/computers/8bits/400.html http://www.transparencynow.com/mary.htm http://www.digitaleconomy.gov/powerpoint/triplett/index.htm http://links.jstor.org/sici?sici=0002-8282%28193203%2922%3C8%3ASWTAU%3 E2.0.CO%3B2-3 Citation reference for this article MLA Style Wasser, Frederick. "Media Is Driving Work" M/C: A Journal of Media and Culture 4.5 (2001). [your date of access] < http://www.media-culture.org.au/0111/Wasser.xml >. Chicago Style Wasser, Frederick, "Media Is Driving Work" M/C: A Journal of Media and Culture 4, no. 5 (2001), < http://www.media-culture.org.au/0111/Wasser.xml > ([your date of access]). APA Style Wasser, Frederick. (2001) Media Is Driving Work. M/C: A Journal of Media and Culture 4(5). < http://www.media-culture.org.au/0111/Wasser.xml > ([your date of access]).
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See, Pamela Mei-Leng. "Branding: A Prosthesis of Identity." M/C Journal 22, no. 5 (October 9, 2019). http://dx.doi.org/10.5204/mcj.1590.

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This article investigates the prosthesis of identity through the process of branding. It examines cross-cultural manifestations of this phenomena from sixth millennium BCE Syria to twelfth century Japan and Britain. From the Neolithic Era, humanity has sort to extend their identities using pictorial signs that were characteristically simple. Designed to be distinctive and instantly recognisable, the totemic symbols served to signal the origin of the bearer. Subsequently, the development of branding coincided with periods of increased in mobility both in respect to geography and social strata. This includes fifth millennium Mesopotamia, nineteenth century Britain, and America during the 1920s.There are fewer articles of greater influence on contemporary culture than A Theory of Human Motivation written by Abraham Maslow in 1943. Nearly seventy-five years later, his theories about the societal need for “belongingness” and “esteem” remain a mainstay of advertising campaigns (Maslow). Although the principles are used to sell a broad range of products from shampoo to breakfast cereal they are epitomised by apparel. This is with refence to garments and accessories bearing corporation logos. Whereas other purchased items, imbued with abstract products, are intended for personal consumption the public display of these symbols may be interpreted as a form of signalling. The intention of the wearers is to literally seek the fulfilment of the aforementioned social needs. This article investigates the use of brands as prosthesis.Coats and Crests: Identity Garnered on Garments in the Middle Ages and the Muromachi PeriodA logo, at its most basic, is a pictorial sign. In his essay, The Visual Language, Ernest Gombrich described the principle as reducing images to “distinctive features” (Gombrich 46). They represent a “simplification of code,” the meaning of which we are conditioned to recognise (Gombrich 46). Logos may also be interpreted as a manifestation of totemism. According to anthropologist Claude Levi-Strauss, the principle exists in all civilisations and reflects an effort to evoke the power of nature (71-127). Totemism is also a method of population distribution (Levi-Strauss 166).This principle, in a form garnered on garments, is manifested in Mon Kiri. The practice of cutting out family crests evolved into a form of corporate branding in Japan during the Meiji Period (1868-1912) (Christensen 14). During the Muromachi period (1336-1573) the crests provided an integral means of identification on the battlefield (Christensen 13). The adorning of crests on armour was also exercised in Europe during the twelfth century, when the faces of knights were similarly obscured by helmets (Family Crests of Japan 8). Both Mon Kiri and “Coat[s] of Arms” utilised totemic symbols (Family Crests of Japan 8; Elven 14; Christensen 13). The mon for the imperial family (figs. 1 & 2) during the Muromachi Period featured chrysanthemum and paulownia flowers (Goin’ Japaneque). “Coat[s] of Arms” in Britain featured a menagerie of animals including lions (fig. 3), horses and eagles (Elven).The prothesis of identity through garnering symbols on the battlefield provided “safety” through demonstrating “belongingness”. This constituted a conflation of two separate “needs” in the “hierarchy of prepotency” propositioned by Maslow. Fig. 1. The mon symbolising the Imperial Family during the Muromachi Period featured chrysanthemum and paulownia. "Kamon (Japanese Family Crests): Ancient Key to Samurai Culture." Goin' Japaneque! 15 Nov. 2015. 27 July 2019 <http://goinjapanesque.com/05983/>.Fig. 2. An example of the crest being utilised on a garment can be found in this portrait of samurai Oda Nobunaga. "Japan's 12 Most Famous Samurai." All About Japan. 27 Aug. 2018. 27 July 2019 <https://allabout-japan.com/en/article/5818/>.Fig. 3. A detail from the “Index of Subjects of Crests.” Elven, John Peter. The Book of Family Crests: Comprising Nearly Every Family Bearing, Properly Blazoned and Explained, Accompanied by Upwards of Four Thousand Engravings. Henry Washbourne, 1847.The Pursuit of Prestige: Prosthetic Pedigree from the Late Georgian to the Victorian Eras In 1817, the seal engraver to Prince Regent, Alexander Deuchar, described the function of family crests in British Crests: Containing The Crest and Mottos of The Families of Great Britain and Ireland; Together with Those of The Principal Cities and Heraldic Terms as follows: The first approach to civilization is the distinction of ranks. So necessary is this to the welfare and existence of society, that, without it, anarchy and confusion must prevail… In an early stage, heraldic emblems were characteristic of the bearer… Certain ordinances were made, regulating the mode of bearing arms, and who were entitled to bear them. (i-v)The partitioning of social classes in Britain had deteriorated by the time this compendium was published, with displays of “conspicuous consumption” displacing “heraldic emblems” as a primary method of status signalling (Deuchar 2; Han et al. 18). A consumerism born of newfound affluence, and the desire to signify this wealth through luxury goods, was as integral to the Industrial Revolution as technological development. In Rebels against the Future, published in 1996, Kirkpatrick Sale described the phenomenon:A substantial part of the new population, though still a distinct minority, was made modestly affluent, in some places quite wealthy, by privatization of of the countryside and the industrialization of the cities, and by the sorts of commercial and other services that this called forth. The new money stimulated the consumer demand… that allowed a market economy of a scope not known before. (40)This also reflected improvements in the provision of “health, food [and] education” (Maslow; Snow 25-28). With their “physiological needs” accommodated, this ”substantial part” of the population were able to prioritised their “esteem needs” including the pursuit for prestige (Sale 40; Maslow).In Britain during the Middle Ages laws “specified in minute detail” what each class was permitted to wear (Han et al. 15). A groom, for example, was not able to wear clothing that exceeded two marks in value (Han et al. 15). In a distinct departure during the Industrial Era, it was common for the “middling and lower classes” to “ape” the “fashionable vices of their superiors” (Sale 41). Although mon-like labels that were “simplified so as to be conspicuous and instantly recognisable” emerged in Europe during the nineteenth century their application on garments remained discrete up until the early twentieth century (Christensen 13-14; Moore and Reid 24). During the 1920s, the French companies Hermes and Coco Chanel were amongst the clothing manufacturers to pioneer this principle (Chaney; Icon).During the 1860s, Lincolnshire-born Charles Frederick Worth affixed gold stamped labels to the insides of his garments (Polan et al. 9; Press). Operating from Paris, the innovation was consistent with the introduction of trademark laws in France in 1857 (Lopes et al.). He would become known as the “Father of Haute Couture”, creating dresses for royalty and celebrities including Empress Eugene from Constantinople, French actress Sarah Bernhardt and Australian Opera Singer Nellie Melba (Lopes et al.; Krick). The clothing labels proved and ineffective deterrent to counterfeit, and by the 1890s the House of Worth implemented other measures to authenticate their products (Press). The legitimisation of the origin of a product is, arguably, the primary function of branding. This principle is also applicable to subjects. The prothesis of brands, as totemic symbols, assisted consumers to relocate themselves within a new system of population distribution (Levi-Strauss 166). It was one born of commerce as opposed to heraldry.Selling of Self: Conferring Identity from the Neolithic to Modern ErasIn his 1817 compendium on family crests, Deuchar elaborated on heraldry by writing:Ignoble birth was considered as a stain almost indelible… Illustrious parentage, on the other hand, constituted the very basis of honour: it communicated peculiar rights and privileges, to which the meaner born man might not aspire. (v-vi)The Twinings Logo (fig. 4) has remained unchanged since the design was commissioned by the grandson of the company founder Richard Twining in 1787 (Twining). In addition to reflecting the heritage of the family-owned company, the brand indicated the origin of the tea. This became pertinent during the nineteenth century. Plantations began to operate from Assam to Ceylon (Jones 267-269). Amidst the rampant diversification of tea sources in the Victorian era, concerns about the “unhygienic practices” of Chinese producers were proliferated (Wengrow 11). Subsequently, the brand also offered consumers assurance in quality. Fig. 4. The Twinings Logo reproduced from "History of Twinings." Twinings. 24 July 2019 <https://www.twinings.co.uk/about-twinings/history-of-twinings>.The term ‘brand’, adapted from the Norse “brandr”, was introduced into the English language during the sixteenth century (Starcevic 179). At its most literal, it translates as to “burn down” (Starcevic 179). Using hot elements to singe markings onto animals been recorded as early as 2700 BCE in Egypt (Starcevic 182). However, archaeologists concur that the modern principle of branding predates this practice. The implementation of carved seals or stamps to make indelible impressions of handcrafted objects dates back to Prehistoric Mesopotamia (Starcevic 183; Wengrow 13). Similar traditions developed during the Bronze Age in both China and the Indus Valley (Starcevic 185). In all three civilisations branding facilitated both commerce and aspects of Totemism. In the sixth millennium BCE in “Prehistoric” Mesopotamia, referred to as the Halaf period, stone seals were carved to emulate organic form such as animal teeth (Wengrow 13-14). They were used to safeguard objects by “confer[ring] part of the bearer’s personality” (Wengrow 14). They were concurrently applied to secure the contents of vessels containing “exotic goods” used in transactions (Wengrow 15). Worn as amulets (figs. 5 & 6) the seals, and the symbols they produced, were a physical extension of their owners (Wengrow 14).Fig. 5. Recreation of stamp seal amulets from Neolithic Mesopotamia during the sixth millennium BCE. Wengrow, David. "Prehistories of Commodity Branding." Current Anthropology 49.1 (2008): 14.Fig. 6. “Lot 25Y: Rare Syrian Steatite Amulet – Fertility God 5000 BCE.” The Salesroom. 27 July 2019 <https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/artemis-gallery-ancient-art/catalogue-id-srartem10006/lot-a850d229-a303-4bae-b68c-a6130005c48a>. Fig. 7. Recreation of stamp seal designs from Mesopotamia from the late fifth to fourth millennium BCE. Wengrow, David. "Prehistories of Commodity Branding." Current Anthropology 49. 1 (2008): 16.In the following millennia, the seals would increase exponentially in application and aesthetic complexity (fig. 7) to support the development of household cum cottage industries (Wengrow 15). In addition to handcrafts, sealed vessels would transport consumables such as wine, aromatic oils and animal fats (Wengrow 18). The illustrations on the seals included depictions of rituals undertaken by human figures and/or allegories using animals. It can be ascertained that the transition in the Victorian Era from heraldry to commerce, from family to corporation, had precedence. By extension, consumers were able to participate in this process of value attribution using brands as signifiers. The principle remained prevalent during the modern and post-modern eras and can be respectively interpreted using structuralist and post-structuralist theory.Totemism to Simulacrum: The Evolution of Advertising from the Modern to Post-Modern Eras In 2011, Lisa Chaney wrote of the inception of the Coco Chanel logo (fig. 8) in her biography Chanel: An Intimate Life: A crucial element in the signature design of the Chanel No.5 bottle is the small black ‘C’ within a black circle set as the seal at the neck. On the top of the lid are two more ‘C’s, intertwined back to back… from at least 1924, the No5 bottles sported the unmistakable logo… these two ‘C’s referred to Gabrielle, – in other words Coco Chanel herself, and would become the logo for the House of Chanel. Chaney continued by describing Chanel’s fascination of totemic symbols as expressed through her use of tarot cards. She also “surrounded herself with objects ripe with meaning” such as representations of wheat and lions in reference prosperity and to her zodiac symbol ‘Leo’ respectively. Fig. 8. No5 Chanel Perfume, released in 1924, featured a seal-like logo attached to the bottle neck. “No5.” Chanel. 25 July 2019 <https://www.chanel.com/us/fragrance/p/120450/n5-parfum-grand-extrait/>.Fig. 9. This illustration of the bottle by Georges Goursat was published in a women’s magazine circa 1920s. “1921 Chanel No5.” Inside Chanel. 26 July 2019 <http://inside.chanel.com/en/timeline/1921_no5>; “La 4éme Fête de l’Histoire Samedi 16 et dimache 17 juin.” Ville de Perigueux. Musée d’art et d’archéologie du Périgord. 28 Mar. 2018. 26 July 2019 <https://www.perigueux-maap.fr/category/archives/page/5/>. This product was considered the “financial basis” of the Chanel “empire” which emerged during the second and third decades of the twentieth century (Tikkanen). Chanel is credited for revolutionising Haute Couture by introducing chic modern designs that emphasised “simplicity and comfort.” This was as opposed to the corseted highly embellished fashion that characterised the Victorian Era (Tikkanen). The lavish designs released by the House of Worth were, in and of themselves, “conspicuous” displays of “consumption” (Veblen 17). In contrast, the prestige and status associated with the “poor girl” look introduced by Chanel was invested in the story of the designer (Tikkanen). A primary example is her marinière or sailor’s blouse with a Breton stripe that epitomised her ascension from café singer to couturier (Tikkanen; Burstein 8). This signifier might have gone unobserved by less discerning consumers of fashion if it were not for branding. Not unlike the Prehistoric Mesopotamians, this iteration of branding is a process which “confer[s]” the “personality” of the designer into the garment (Wengrow 13 -14). The wearer of the garment is, in turn, is imbued by extension. Advertisers in the post-structuralist era embraced Levi-Strauss’s structuralist anthropological theories (Williamson 50). This is with particular reference to “bricolage” or the “preconditioning” of totemic symbols (Williamson 173; Pool 50). Subsequently, advertising creatives cum “bricoleur” employed his principles to imbue the brands with symbolic power. This symbolic capital was, arguably, transferable to the product and, ultimately, to its consumer (Williamson 173).Post-structuralist and semiotician Jean Baudrillard “exhaustively” critiqued brands and the advertising, or simulacrum, that embellished them between the late 1960s and early 1980s (Wengrow 10-11). In Simulacra and Simulation he wrote,it is the reflection of a profound reality; it masks and denatures a profound reality; it masks the absence of a profound reality; it has no relation to any reality whatsoever: it is its own pure simulacrum. (6)The symbolic power of the Chanel brand resonates in the ‘profound reality’ of her story. It is efficiently ‘denatured’ through becoming simplified, conspicuous and instantly recognisable. It is, as a logo, physically juxtaposed as simulacra onto apparel. This simulacrum, in turn, effects the ‘profound reality’ of the consumer. In 1899, economist Thorstein Veblen wrote in The Theory of the Leisure Class:Conspicuous consumption of valuable goods it the means of reputability to the gentleman of leisure… costly entertainments, such as potlatch or the ball, are peculiarly adapted to serve this end… he consumes vicariously for his host at the same time that he is witness to the consumption… he is also made to witness his host’s facility in etiquette. (47)Therefore, according to Veblen, it was the witnessing of “wasteful” consumption that “confers status” as opposed the primary conspicuous act (Han et al. 18). Despite television being in its experimental infancy advertising was at “the height of its powers” during the 1920s (Clark et al. 18; Hill 30). Post-World War I consumers, in America, experienced an unaccustomed level of prosperity and were unsuspecting of the motives of the newly formed advertising agencies (Clark et al. 18). Subsequently, the ‘witnessing’ of consumption could be constructed across a plethora of media from the newly emerged commercial radio to billboards (Hill viii–25). The resulting ‘status’ was ‘conferred’ onto brand logos. Women’s magazines, with a legacy dating back to 1828, were a primary locus (Hill 10).Belonging in a Post-Structuralist WorldIt is significant to note that, in a post-structuralist world, consumers do not exclusively seek upward mobility in their selection of brands. The establishment of counter-culture icon Levi-Strauss and Co. was concurrent to the emergence of both The House of Worth and Coco Chanel. The Bavarian-born Levi Strauss commenced selling apparel in San Francisco in 1853 (Levi’s). Two decades later, in partnership with Nevada born tailor Jacob Davis, he patented the “riveted-for-strength” workwear using blue denim (Levi’s). Although the ontology of ‘jeans’ is contested, references to “Jene Fustyan” date back the sixteenth century (Snyder 139). It involved the combining cotton, wool and linen to create “vestments” for Geonese sailors (Snyder 138). The Two Horse Logo (fig. 10), depicting them unable to pull apart a pair of jeans to symbolise strength, has been in continuous use by Levi Strauss & Co. company since its design in 1886 (Levi’s). Fig. 10. The Two Horse Logo by Levi Strauss & Co. has been in continuous use since 1886. Staff Unzipped. "Two Horses. One Message." Heritage. Levi Strauss & Co. 1 July 2011. 25 July 2019 <https://www.levistrauss.com/2011/07/01/two-horses-many-versions-one-message/>.The “rugged wear” would become the favoured apparel amongst miners at American Gold Rush (Muthu 6). Subsequently, between the 1930s – 1960s Hollywood films cultivated jeans as a symbol of “defiance” from Stage Coach staring John Wayne in 1939 to Rebel without A Cause staring James Dean in 1955 (Muthu 6; Edgar). Consequently, during the 1960s college students protesting in America (fig. 11) against the draft chose the attire to symbolise their solidarity with the working class (Hedarty). Notwithstanding a 1990s fashion revision of denim into a diversity of garments ranging from jackets to skirts, jeans have remained a wardrobe mainstay for the past half century (Hedarty; Muthu 10). Fig. 11. Although the brand label is not visible, jeans as initially introduced to the American Goldfields in the nineteenth century by Levi Strauss & Co. were cultivated as a symbol of defiance from the 1930s – 1960s. It documents an anti-war protest that occurred at the Pentagon in 1967. Cox, Savannah. "The Anti-Vietnam War Movement." ATI. 14 Dec. 2016. 16 July 2019 <https://allthatsinteresting.com/vietnam-war-protests#7>.In 2003, the journal Science published an article “Does Rejection Hurt? An Fmri Study of Social Exclusion” (Eisenberger et al.). The cross-institutional study demonstrated that the neurological reaction to rejection is indistinguishable to physical pain. Whereas during the 1940s Maslow classified the desire for “belonging” as secondary to “physiological needs,” early twenty-first century psychologists would suggest “[social] acceptance is a mechanism for survival” (Weir 50). In Simulacra and Simulation, Jean Baudrillard wrote: Today abstraction is no longer that of the map, the double, the mirror or the concept. Simulation is no longer that of a territory, a referential being or a substance. It is the generation by models of a real without origin or reality: a hyperreal… (1)In the intervening thirty-eight years since this document was published the artifice of our interactions has increased exponentially. In order to locate ‘belongness’ in this hyperreality, the identities of the seekers require a level of encoding. Brands, as signifiers, provide a vehicle.Whereas in Prehistoric Mesopotamia carved seals, worn as amulets, were used to extend the identity of a person, in post-digital China WeChat QR codes (fig. 12), stored in mobile phones, are used to facilitate transactions from exchanging contact details to commerce. Like other totems, they provide access to information such as locations, preferences, beliefs, marital status and financial circumstances. These individualised brands are the most recent incarnation of a technology that has developed over the past eight thousand years. The intermediary iteration, emblems affixed to garments, has remained prevalent since the twelfth century. Their continued salience is due to their visibility and, subsequent, accessibility as signifiers. Fig. 12. It may be posited that Wechat QR codes are a form individualised branding. Like other totems, they store information pertaining to the owner’s location, beliefs, preferences, marital status and financial circumstances. “Join Wechat groups using QR code on 2019.” Techwebsites. 26 July 2019 <https://techwebsites.net/join-wechat-group-qr-code/>.Fig. 13. Brands function effectively as signifiers is due to the international distribution of multinational corporations. This is the shopfront of Chanel in Dubai, which offers customers apparel bearing consistent insignia as the Parisian outlet at on Rue Cambon. Customers of Chanel can signify to each other with the confidence that their products will be recognised. “Chanel.” The Dubai Mall. 26 July 2019 <https://thedubaimall.com/en/shop/chanel>.Navigating a post-structuralist world of increasing mobility necessitates a rudimental understanding of these symbols. Whereas in the nineteenth century status was conveyed through consumption and witnessing consumption, from the twentieth century onwards the garnering of brands made this transaction immediate (Veblen 47; Han et al. 18). The bricolage of the brands is constructed by bricoleurs working in any number of contemporary creative fields such as advertising, filmmaking or song writing. They provide a system by which individuals can convey and recognise identities at prima facie. They enable the prosthesis of identity.ReferencesBaudrillard, Jean. Simulacra and Simulation. Trans. Sheila Faria Glaser. United States: University of Michigan Press, 1994.Burstein, Jessica. Cold Modernism: Literature, Fashion, Art. United States: Pennsylvania State University Press, 2012.Chaney, Lisa. Chanel: An Intimate Life. United Kingdom: Penguin Books Limited, 2011.Christensen, J.A. Cut-Art: An Introduction to Chung-Hua and Kiri-E. New York: Watson-Guptill Publications, 1989. Clark, Eddie M., Timothy C. Brock, David E. Stewart, David W. Stewart. Attention, Attitude, and Affect in Response to Advertising. United Kingdom: Taylor & Francis Group, 1994.Deuchar, Alexander. British Crests: Containing the Crests and Mottos of the Families of Great Britain and Ireland Together with Those of the Principal Cities – Primary So. London: Kirkwood & Sons, 1817.Ebert, Robert. “Great Movie: Stage Coach.” Robert Ebert.com. 1 Aug. 2011. 10 Mar. 2019 <https://www.rogerebert.com/reviews/great-movie-stagecoach-1939>.Elven, John Peter. The Book of Family Crests: Comprising Nearly Every Family Bearing, Properly Blazoned and Explained, Accompanied by Upwards of Four Thousand Engravings. London: Henry Washbourne, 1847.Eisenberger, Naomi I., Matthew D. Lieberman, and Kipling D. Williams. "Does Rejection Hurt? An Fmri Study of Social Exclusion." Science 302.5643 (2003): 290-92.Family Crests of Japan. California: Stone Bridge Press, 2007.Gombrich, Ernst. "The Visual Image: Its Place in Communication." Scientific American 272 (1972): 82-96.Hedarty, Stephanie. "How Jeans Conquered the World." BBC World Service. 28 Feb. 2012. 26 July 2019 <https://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-17101768>. Han, Young Jee, Joseph C. Nunes, and Xavier Drèze. "Signaling Status with Luxury Goods: The Role of Brand Prominence." Journal of Marketing 74.4 (2010): 15-30.Hill, Daniel Delis. Advertising to the American Woman, 1900-1999. United States of Ame: Ohio State University Press, 2002."History of Twinings." Twinings. 24 July 2019 <https://www.twinings.co.uk/about-twinings/history-of-twinings>. icon-icon: Telling You More about Icons. 18 Dec. 2016. 26 July 2019 <http://www.icon-icon.com/en/hermes-logo-the-horse-drawn-carriage/>. Jones, Geoffrey. Merchants to Multinationals: British Trading Companies in the 19th and 20th Centuries. Oxford: Oxford UP, 2002.Kamon (Japanese Family Crests): Ancient Key to Samurai Culture." Goin' Japaneque! 15 Nov. 2015. 27 July 2019 <http://goinjapanesque.com/05983/>. Krick, Jessa. "Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) and the House of Worth." Heilburnn Timeline of Art History. The Met. Oct. 2004. 23 July 2019 <https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm>. Levi’s. "About Levis Strauss & Co." 25 July 2019 <https://www.levis.com.au/about-us.html>. Lévi-Strauss, Claude. Totemism. London: Penguin, 1969.Lopes, Teresa de Silva, and Paul Duguid. Trademarks, Brands, and Competitiveness. Abingdon: Routledge, 2010.Maslow, Abraham. "A Theory of Human Motivation." British Journal of Psychiatry 208.4 (1942): 313-13.Moore, Karl, and Susan Reid. "The Birth of Brand: 4000 Years of Branding History." Business History 4.4 (2008).Muthu, Subramanian Senthikannan. Sustainability in Denim. Cambridge Woodhead Publishing, 2017.Polan, Brenda, and Roger Tredre. The Great Fashion Designers. Oxford: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2009.Pool, Roger C. Introduction. Totemism. New ed. Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1969.Press, Claire. Wardrobe Crisis: How We Went from Sunday Best to Fast Fashion. Melbourne: Schwartz Publishing, 2016.Sale, K. Rebels against the Future: The Luddites and Their War on the Industrial Revolution: Lessons for the Computer Age. Massachusetts: Addison-Wesley, 1996.Snow, C.P. The Two Cultures and the Scientific Revolution. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1959. Snyder, Rachel Louise. Fugitive Denim: A Moving Story of People and Pants in the Borderless World of Global Trade. New York: W.W. Norton, 2008.Starcevic, Sladjana. "The Origin and Historical Development of Branding and Advertising in the Old Civilizations of Africa, Asia and Europe." Marketing 46.3 (2015): 179-96.Tikkanen, Amy. "Coco Chanel." Encyclopaedia Britannica. 19 Apr. 2019. 25 July 2019 <https://www.britannica.com/biography/Coco-Chanel>.Veblen, Thorstein. The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study in the Evolution of Institutions. London: Macmillan, 1975.Weir, Kirsten. "The Pain of Social Rejection." American Psychological Association 43.4 (2012): 50.Williamson, Judith. Decoding Advertisements: Ideology and Meaning in Advertising. Ideas in Progress. London: Boyars, 1978.
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