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Potgieter, Stephan Andries. "Exploring rock climbing discourses." Diss., Pretoria : [s.n.], 2006. http://upetd.up.ac.za/thesis/available/etd-09302008-125706.
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Reding, Jordan Michael. "Rock Climbing or Lichen Climbing? How Rock Climbing Impacts Bryophyte and Lichen Communities Within the Red River Gorge." The Ohio State University, 2019. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=osu1562584961670604.
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Low, Christopher John. "Biomechanics of rock climbing technique." Thesis, University of Leeds, 2005. http://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/5391/.
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Rock climbing routes have become increasingly difficult over the last twenty years. In rock climbing manuals and articles, specific techniques for making arm movements on steep, overhanging routes are suggested as offering the climber noticeable performance benefits. The techniques recommended generally depend on the orientation of the ipsilateral foot. Decisions on technique are important, as the results are cumulative and can impact on the overall performance of the climber on the route. The overall purpose of this research is to evaluate the impact of different ipsilateral foot orientations on reaching tasks in overhanging rock climbing situations. As the research base for technique analysis is limited in rock climbing, a qualitative study was initially conducted to confirm the existence of the different techniques and to provide a base from which to ascertain the performance variables for technique comparison. Comparison Study 1 involved a 3D kinematic study, modelling the climber as a 14-segment rigid body model, comparing the techniques in terms of centre of mass displacement and velocity as well as joint angular changes. Comparison Study 2 compared the techniques in terms of the identified performance measures of postural demand, trajectory efficiency and work/power. Statistically significant differences were found in centre of mass characteristics and body geometry, with differing orientations of the ipsilateral foot. Variations in complexity and in strategies of joint angular change were demonstrated, but the coordination in the reaching arm and the final arm posture were found to be invariant with technique. The postural demands within each technique varied significantly, however, in terms of trajectory efficiency and bioenergetics; differences between the techniques were small. The overall conclusion was that, although reaching arm movements are not affected by foot orientation, the overall technique and performance of a reaching task is. The study has practical and theoretical implications for rock climbing as well as for theories of grasping.
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Rapelje, Brandon Wayne. "Rock climbing sub-worlds: a segmentation study." Thesis, Texas A&M University, 2004. http://hdl.handle.net/1969.1/1113.
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Rock climbing participation is growing throughout the United States. Information on the participation patterns and preferences of groups of climbers can be used to help mangers make better informed decisions, allowing them to cater to the specific interests of climbing participants, ensure participant satisfaction and encourage continued patronage. This study explores variation in participant characteristics across segments of the climbing population. Because an individual's level of specialization will align him with other like-minded participants, an understanding of a participant's stages of involvement and level of specialization assists in understanding the social world's views and behaviors toward the resource and toward other participants. Information on participants' level of experience, level of commitment, and demographic dimensions can be used to better understand and manage climbers. This study aimed to identify differences among groups of climbers. The study measured across 484 participants. The participants were described by various dependent variables, which included demographic factors, level of specialization, motivations for climbing, types of conflicts and constraints experiences, and setting preferences. Measuring the climbers' participation patterns identified participant sub-world groups. The four groups of climbing participants, as identified by this study, were: infrequent climbers, frequent outdoor climbers, frequent indoor climbers, and avid climbers. While demographics are not significantly descriptive of climbing sub-world affiliations, this study found that there were differences among sub-world affiliates in terms of specialization level, motives, conflicts, constraints, and setting preferences.
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Hardwell, Ashley George. "Detraditionalization and differentiation in UK rock climbing." Thesis, University of Central Lancashire, 2007. http://clok.uclan.ac.uk/21868/.
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The central theme of this study is detraditionalization and differentiation of rock climbing in the UK. The type of climbing in the UK known as traditional climbing is taken as the "pregiven or natural order of things" (Heelas, 1996: 2) and how more contemporary rock climbing types interact with traditional climbing is explored. In line with detraditionalization, the study's premise is a loss of the 'traditional approach' to climbing in favour of more contemporary practices. For the purposes of this study rock climbing in the UK is differentiated by five climbing types; traditional climbing, sport climbing, indoor climbing, assortment climbing and bouldering. The study assumes the functioning of these climbing types to be underpinned by five cultural domains: ethics, practices, motivations, subcultural identity and lifestyle identity. Cultural domains are actions, behaviours and feelings associated with different types of rock climbing. The study explores the existence of the proposed cultural domains and hypothesises that different rock climbing types appeal to participants because within these more emphasis is placed on certain cultural domains. The study has four important theoretical pillars. First, detraditionalization and differentiation are justified as important concepts. Both are associated strongly with superficial and deeper meanings within the study. Second, an historical perspective adds context to the study and affirms the differentiated nature of UK rock climbing at a number of levels. Here, the 'great divide' (Donnelly, 2003) between traditional climbing and sport climbing is scrutinised and a history of traditional climbing developed. An exploration of values in rock climbing as well as its wider societal context forms the third theme. Subculture forms the final theoretical pillar where contemporary post-subcultural studies are explored and rock climbing differentiation aligned with a postmodern perspective. The study has two research phases: the quantitative phase is positivist in paradigm and seeks to establish a baseline for the study through establishing cultural domain existence. The qualitative phase observes their manifestation. A Liked style questionnaire was designed in the first study phase based on the initially identified cultural domains with 639 responses received from rock climbers categorising themselves into one of five given climbing types. Factor analysis did not substantiate the proposed five cultural domains. A more complex domain structure was evidenced with all sub-groups clearly showing differences in cultural domain priority. The qualitative phase observed cultural domain manifestations of fifteen climbers, twelve of whom may be described as primary subculture members (Donnelly, 1981). Four qualitative tools were developed: participant observation; recorded discussion; snapshot camera work and visual diaries. The qualitative phase tells the participants' story. Their life worlds are reflected upon using the four tools and a strong narrative exists that is the participants' climbing lives. Both research phases reveal complexity of cultural domain by climbing type and new taxonomies were offered as more accurate representations. Congruence between study phases was recorded developing three important cultural domain issues for future consideration. First, cultural domains of traditional climbing are markedly different because of the difficulty of focusing on the physicality of climbing given the nature of ascent. In contrast, contemporary climbing types (bouldering, sport and indoor climbing) easily identify with physicality and concentrated on climber's technical ability to complete difficult rock climbing sequences in relative safety. Physicality represented an important reward for contemporary climbers, whereas for traditional climbers, being in the outdoors, and the holistic experience associated with this, was held in high regard. The outdoor experience was less important in other types of climbing Second, skills of traditional climbing developed through an 'outdoor apprenticeship' are attached to specific outcomes embedded in the natural environment. It forms an essential element of safe traditional climbing practice, particularly if mountain crags are preferred. For sport climbing, indoor climbing and bouldering many of these skills are no longer necessities. This is linked strongly with a more utilitarian value base underpinning cultural domains in contemporary climbing. Finally, the complexity of the 'great divide' (Donnelly, 2003) involving other rock climbing types as well as sport climbing and traditional climbing is recognised. Assortment climbers are seen as the conduit through which climbers with broad experience may regularly bridge the great divide given the necessary skills and inclination. Assortment climbers are underrepresented in this study and account for a growing number of climbers with a flexible approach to rock climbing. Establishing cultural domains by climbing type in rock climbing remains complex. While there is a clear distinction of cultural domain manifestation in traditional rock climbing compared with contemporary rock climbing types, the common notion of what constitutes a legitimate ascent across all rock climbing types still rests within a traditional climbing interpretation. The study recommends further exploration of the interplay between identifiable rock climbing types in the UK.
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Conder, Brian James. "Dehydration characteristics of experienced rock climbers using an indoor rock climbing treadmill." Thesis, Montana State University, 2011. http://etd.lib.montana.edu/etd/2011/conder/ConderB1211.pdf.
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To date there are no published studies that quantify the amount of dehydration that takes place during rock climbing (RC). The purposes of this study were to determine whether significant dehydration occurs during a simulated RC session and whether ad libitum water ingestion augments this dehydration. In order to do so, eight male (Mean±SD; 26.5±5.8) and two female (24.0±1.4 yrs) experienced rock climbers completed two identical 115-minute RC trials on a motorized indoor RC treadmill, which consisted of six 15-minute RC intervals with a five minute rest between each interval. One trial the subjects did not receive water (NH) the other they ingested water ad libitum during the rest periods (AL). Percent change in body mass (%DeltaBM) and percent change in plasma volume (%DeltaPV) were calculated for both trials. Urine specific gravity (USG), rhythmic hand grip endurance and plasma creatine kinase were collected before and after both trials. Heart rate and rating of perceived exertion (RPE) were measured throughout both trials. Data was analyzed via RMANOVA, Wilcoxon signed-rank tests and paired T-tests. The level of significance was set at P≤0.05. There were significant differences between trials for %DeltaBM (Mean±SE: NH=-2.4±0.1%, AL=-0.9±0.2%) and %DeltaPV (NH=-2.93±2.42%, AL=+8.76±3.24%). Heart rate and RPE significantly increased during both trials. There was a significant interaction between trials for HR. No other significant differences between trials were observed. Significant dehydration can occur during RC when %DeltaBM is used as an indicator, but not final USG. The cardiovascular stress associated with this dehydration was decreased by ad libitum water ingestion.
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Dougherty, Kevin. "Rock Climbing Experience and Climbing Management Plan Implications in Acadia National Park: A Qualitative Approach." Fogler Library, University of Maine, 2011. http://www.library.umaine.edu/theses/pdf/DoughertyK2011.pdf.
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Lewis, Neil. "The climbing body : choreographing a history of modernity." Thesis, Lancaster University, 2001. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.288878.
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Barratt, Paul Richard. "Hybrid climbing bodies : the climbing assemblage and the technologically mediated engagements and ascensions of rock climbers." Thesis, University of Hull, 2010. http://hydra.hull.ac.uk/resources/hull:4714.
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This thesis contributes an Actor Network Theory inspired approach to the study of rock climbing to argue that climbers are more-than-human fusions comprised of the human and non-human. The research explores this notion of hybrid climbers, which I term the ‘hybrid climbing assemblage’. The complicated relationships between these human and technological co-agents of climbing are durable but dynamic, although technological developments aid climbers, the benefits of these fusions cannot be reduced to physical, technical and mental elements. Rather, each piece of technology worn or carried by the climber has its own situated set of relations which are interwoven into the complex socio-technical assemblage that co-constitutes the present day climber. Empirical data to support this study has been collected via participant observation, and interviews with 40 rock climbers based in northern England. Although some of these voices debate the roles of these technologies and their experiential impacts upon climbing, these developments are not necessarily damaging to the experience. Indeed, climbers are careful to retain the ‘desirable’ and ‘essential’ experiential aspects of the activity – notably the risk and uncertainty climbing entails. Finally, the thesis also adds to debates concerning the materially mediated experience of places, and how places are also involved in the development of socio-technical assemblages and their practices. In these ways this research aims to help us rethink our activities as implicitly mediated by technology.
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Pendergast-White, Ian Michael. "Constraints to Continued Rock Climbing Participation in the Southern Illinois Region." OpenSIUC, 2010. https://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/theses/359.
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AN ABSTRACT OF THE THESIS OF IAN M. PENDERGAST-WHITE, for the Master of Science degree in FORESTRY, presented on *July 7, 2010, at Southern Illinois University Carbondale. TITLE: CONSTRAINTS TO CONTINUED ROCK CLIMBING PARTICIPATION IN THE SOUTHERN ILLINOIS REGION MAJOR PROFESSOR: Dr. Jean Mangun In recent years rock climbing has seen dramatic increases in the number of participants nationwide. Climbing opportunities in southern Illinois are expected to become popular climbing destinations as the area becomes better publicized. The high quality sandstone, aesthetic features, and easy access help to ensure that the number of rock climbers coming to the region will only continue to grow. As has been described in the literature with other "new" activities on public lands, concern from land management agencies likewise continues to grow in direct correlation with the increasing numbers of climbers. Although there are literally dozens of published articles in the sports medicine literature about injuries from rock climbing and physiological responses, there is a surprising lack of research on the activity itself. The present study applies a qualitative approach to collect baseline data that characterizes regional climbing participants and their concerns before resource allocation issues develop further. Twenty climber interviews, two climber focus groups, and four key informant interviews with managers were conducted and data analyzed for emerging themes. Findings from the analysis suggest: although a strong sense of community and dedication to the activity exists within the climbing user group, climbers express concern that their activity lacks stature as a legitimate resource-based recreation activity among other stakeholder groups. Differing perceptions of the environmental impacts associated with climbing persist that lead to climbing access issues. Creation of local climbing organizations, such as the Illinois Climbers Association, can play a pivotal role in promoting progressive collaboration among stakeholders groups, which will be necessary to resolve these issues and better integrate rock climbing into the mix of accepted recreation activities in the southern Illinois region.
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Giles, David. "Psychophysiological and emotional antecedents of climbing performance." Thesis, University of Derby, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/10545/621900.
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Recreational sport climbing is characterised by self-selected route choices, which place participants under both physiological and psychological stress. This thesis is comprised of four studies, each conducted with experienced climbers, exploring subjective psychological, objective psychophysiological and behavioural responses to anxiety-inducing stressors. Studies One and Two explored the means of protecting a climber in the event of a fall and the relative difficulty of a route. Significant and meaningful differences in self-reported anxiety and climbing performance were found in both studies. However, notably, psychophysiological measures of anticipatory heart rate and cortisol did not result in meaningful differences. Results suggested that situations, atypical of participants’ normal recreation sessions, with an increased likelihood of a climber falling or being unable to complete the route, were likely to be evaluated as threatening, elicit a negative emotional response and disrupt performance. However, the quantitative methods employed in Studies One and Two did not provide an explanation of the processes underlying participant’s anxious response and disrupted performance. Consequently, Study Three qualitatively explored individual experiences of climbers, with a focus on psychological factors that influence performance. The defining characteristics of lead climbing were discussed, as were the potential for taking falls, and/or the anticipation of falling. Further, interviewees described the choices they make, in order to increase or decrease the physical, psychological and technical challenges present. Critically, the choices made by a climber appear to potentiate or limit opportunities to perform optimally. Climber’s decisions were mediated by a number of antecedents, including a climber’s background in the sport, climbing partners and training status. Data suggests that while decisions made by the climbers allow them to engage with the sport on their own terms and exert a level of control over the challenges of their climbing sessions, it is often at the expense of performance. Interestingly, while interviewees were aware of techniques to reduce anxiety and improve performance, few regularly used these in training. Study Four examined the effectiveness of clip drops and repeat practice to reduce anxiety. Results indicated that neither technique resulted in reduced anxiety or improved performance when compared to the control group. While there were small differences in the success rate of participants in the intervention groups, they were less anxious and interpreted their level of self-confidence as more positive, compared to control, it was not possible to differentiate between the two interventions. However, when the combined means were considered there were significant and meaningful differences observed in the post-intervention red-point ascent compared to the initial on-sight. This thesis highlights the difficulty that arises in attempting to quantitatively examine anxiety. While there might not be (a) anxiety in climbers or (b) quantifiable differences between climbers of different abilities, it may be that what is possibly ‘noise’ in data arises due to weaknesses in the markers themselves. The findings of Study Three provide evidence of the true nature of anxiety for climbers, which was not evident from the quantitative markers; as well as the lengths climbers will go to, to avoid anxiety. Climbers’ responses to anxiety were individualised, consequently, generalised interventions may have a limited effect on reducing anxiety to a level which supports performance improvements. It may be that an individualised approach to anxiety reduction and avoidance behaviours has a more significant impact on performance improvement than any of the latest training programmes, equipment or nutritional strategies.
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Davis, Colin Matthew. "A comparison of training methods for enhancing climbing performance." Thesis, Montana State University, 2004. http://etd.lib.montana.edu/etd/2004/davis/DavisC04.pdf.
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Fryer, Simon. "Physiological and psychological contributions to on-sight rock climbing, and the haemodynamic responses to sustained and intermittent contractions." Thesis, University of Canterbury. School of Sport and Physical Education, 2013. http://hdl.handle.net/10092/8704.
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Rock climbing is a multi-dimensional sport encompassing physiological, psychological, bio-mechanical and skill components. Interpretation of data in current investigations is limited by the lack of knowledge regarding the extent of the potential interaction of pre-climb anxieties with the physiological responses during an ascent. This thesis attempts to delineate the psychological and physiological contributions of on-sight top rope and lead climbing in multiple ability groups of rock climbers. Furthermore, the thesis goes on to gain an understanding of the de-oxygenation and re-oxygenation profiles in two forearm flexors during sustained and intermittent contractions-to-failure, as well as during the subsequent recovery period.
In study one, intermediate, advanced and elite rock climbers were asked to on-sight a route at the top of their respective best self-reported on-sight grade. There were no ability group or ascent style differences for any pre-climb measures of anxiety. However, elite rock climbers had significantly higher oxygen consumption, heart rate (HR) and cortisol (physiological component) responses compared to lower ability groups. Furthermore, the elite climbers spent a significantly greater percentage of their static time resting during the ascent compared to all lower ability groups. As there appears to be no differences in the anxiety based interaction with the physiological response, study one suggests that ability group and ascent style differences may be attributed mainly to the changes in the physical demands of the route. Furthermore, it would appear the higher level rock climbers may have a greater reliance on the aerobic metabolism during an on-sight ascent.
Study two investigated the haemodynamic responses to sustained and intermittent handgrip contractions which are seen during rock climbing ascents. Intermediate, advanced and elite climbers as well as a control group were asked to perform sustained and intermittent contractions (10s) at 40% of maximal volitional capacity until exhaustion. Oxygen saturation, blood flow (BF) and HR were measured pre, during and post contractions. Elite and advanced climbers were able to de-oxygenate both the flexor digitorum profundus and the flexor carpi radialis significantly more than the intermediate climbers, and the control group. During the intermittent test to failure, relative re-oxygenation during the rest period (3s) (re-oxygenation which takes into account the amount of de-oxygenation during the previous contraction), may be an important determinant of the force time integral. During the intermittent test, the increase in Δ BF, release HR and Δ HR during the rest periods suggest that vessel occlusion in elite and advanced rock climbers may not be as prominant as previously speculated upon. Furthermore, elite rock climbers appear to have a significantly faster time to half recovery after both sustained and intermittent contractions-to-failure.
In conclusion, it would appear that the psychological responses assessed pre on-sight rock climbing may not be different between ability groups or ascent styles. Instead, ability group differences may be due to physiological adaptations caused in part by the significantly greater amount of training. Furthermore, elite rock climbers appear to be able to de-oxygenate and re-oxygenate faster and to a greater extent than lower ability level climbers due to an increased Δ BF and Δ HR during intermittent rest periods, as well as post-exercise. Further investigation focusing on aerobic/anaerobic contribution, determination of capillary density and muscle fiber type would aid in gaining a greater understanding of rock climbing performance.
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Walsh, Andrew Stephen. "Analysis of perceptual-motor calibration processes in indoor climbing." Thesis, Edith Cowan University, Research Online, Perth, Western Australia, 2019. https://ro.ecu.edu.au/theses/2181.
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This research programme examines how people perceive maximal reach-and grasp-ness in climbing, and as such these questions will be limited to climbing.
Is experienced gained from performing daily submaximal reaching sufficient for the accurate perception of maximal horizontal reaching affordances in rock climbing?
How is perception of maximal horizontal boundary of reach-and grasp-ness affected by: hold size, body position, additional load, or fatigue.
How will inducing fatigue affect how a participant calibrates distance and their movement economy?
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Wesselhoff, Alexa. "Utilizing Acceptance and Commitment Therapy to Improve Rock Climbing Performance with Recreational Climbers." OpenSIUC, 2020. https://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/theses/2695.
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Rock climbing has been growing increasingly popular in the United States and around the world. Rock climbers frequently climb in the presence of fear and anxiety. Often climbers make mistakes while climbing that increase the potential for accidents and injuries. One area in which behavioral interventions have targeted sports performance is through the use of acceptance and commit training methods. Research has suggested that components of ACT may improve athletic performance such as present moment awareness, values clarification, and acceptance of challenging thoughts while performing. Studies have looked at the effects of training athletes within various sports such as basketball, powerlifting, swimming and golfing. Common skills that have been targeted include flow, attention to task, and goals/values identification. At this time, there has not been any research examining the impact of ACT on rock climbing performance. The current study examined the effects of ACT on rock climbing performance in two participants who frequently engaged in recreational rock climbing in a multiple baseline design across participants. Participants received ACT lessons prior to climbing and were assessed on falls and errors, speed, and heart rate. Results for both participants demonstrated improvements in decreasing falls and errors and increasing speed. There was no effect seen on heart rate. A second component of feedback on errors was added for participant one to further reduce errors.
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Rogers, Emily S. M. Massachusetts Institute of Technology. "Neurally-controlled ankle-foot prosthesis with non-backdrivable transmission for rock climbing augmentation." Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2019. https://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/121861.
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Thesis: S.M., Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Department of Mechanical Engineering, 2019Cataloged from PDF version of thesis.
Includes bibliographical references (pages 87-88).
This thesis presents the design and evaluation of a neurally-controlled ankle-foot prosthesis optimized to enhance rock climbing ability in persons with transtibial amputation. The bionic rock climbing prosthesis restores biologic performance of the ankle-foot complex. The user volitionally controls the positions of both the prosthetic ankle and subtalar joints via input from electromyography surface electrodes worn on the residual limb. We hypothesize that a climbing specific robotic ankle-foot prosthesis will result in more biological emulation than a passive prosthesis. Specifically, we hypothesize that joint angles of the hip, knee, ankle, and subtalar of a person with transtibial amputation while rock climbing are are more similar to the joint angles of a height-, weight-, and ability-matched control subject with intact limbs, compared to climbing with a passive prosthesis. To test the hypothesis, a powered, 2-degree-of-freedom, neurally controlled prosthesis is built that comprises a pair of non-backdrivable linear actuators providing 16 degrees of dorsiflexion, 18 degrees of plantar flexion, and 20 degrees each of inversion and eversion. The prosthesis operates at a bandwidth and range of motion matching biological free-space motion of the ankle and subtalar joint. Climbing performance is evaluated by measuring joint angles and muscle activity during rock climbing with the robotic prosthesis and a traditional passive prosthesis, and comparing the kinematic data to that of a subject with intact biological limbs. We find that the bionic prosthesis brings the ankle and subtalar joint angles of the subject to more similar angles than the control subjects with intact biological limbs, compared to a standard passive prosthesis. These results indicate that a lightweight, actuated, 2-degree-of-freedom neurally-controlled robotic ankle-foot prosthesis restores biological function to the user during an extremely technical sport.
by Emily Rogers.
S.M.
S.M. Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Department of Mechanical Engineering
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Lane, Ely Thomas. "GEOSPATIAL APPROACH TO PREDICTING CLIMBER IMPACTS AS A FUNCTION OF CLIMB CHARACTERISTICS (CHANGING USE, SITE CHARACTERISTICS, AND USER CHARACTERISTICS)." OpenSIUC, 2016. https://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/theses/1978.
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Rock climbing is undergoing unexpectedly rapid growth across the United States and around the world. Industry estimations in the late 1990’s put the number of recreational rock climbers in the United States in the 400,000 range. In 2013, estimates placed the rock climbing population as larger than eleven million active climbers, an apparent expansion of two orders of magnitude in about twenty years. As the number of rock climbers utilizing protected areas to further their recreation goals increases, so goes the associated impacts those recreationists can have on the resources. From what is known about recreation impacts to soil and vegetative cover, these impacts grow non-linearly with the amount of use, but asymptotically compared to the number of users. In an era of difficult resource management budgeting and staffing, this use-impact dynamic can grow unchecked. Therefore, this thesis seeks to map existing climbs in a developed climbing area and combine those spatial data with user attribute data towards generating a predictive suitability map for climbs. As climbing grows in popularity, land managers and climbing advocacy organizations both stand to benefit from clearer understanding of the processes driving climb site location selection and ultimately the characteristics observed about the climbing routes created. Resource management is comparatively slow and hemmed in by regulation and planning requirements. What makes a particular area suitable for rock climbing route development is the end result of an extended career as a technical rock climber. A skilled rock climber would be able to explain why a particular site might be better or less suited for climbing development. However most land managers are not experienced rock climbers, requiring the investigation for indicators that would be discernable by a novice. Therefore, the need to link managers and activity participants is great, considering this knowledge gap we ask the question: “To what extent can onsite and user-defined climb characteristics be used to model location and extent of climbing routes’ development by climbers?” Distances (2-dimensional centroid-to-centroid) between climb sites’ areas of impact, associated approach trail, and ingress/egress points of the canyon area were computed to subsequently determine correlative relationships between number of bolts, as well as horizontal 2-dimensional linear distance between adjacent climbs. Non-spatial attributes of each climb were also assessed for correlations with the above spatial characteristics of each climb. There were statistical correlations found between the difference in climb quality ratings and the distance to nearest climbs as well as correlations between clustering of climbs and their quality rating. This combined with a willingness to travel the farthest distance possible in the area to reach high quality climbs has many resource management implications both for land managers and users.
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Hobbs, William. "Economic Impact of Rock Climbing on the Communities Surrounding the Red River Gorge, Kentucky." TopSCHOLAR®, 2002. http://digitalcommons.wku.edu/theses/665.
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The sport of rock climbing has exploded in America over the last decade resulting in millions of climbers flocking to the available areas near and far from their home. Such traffic demands clear and effective policy-making from land managers, public and private, in order to conserve and protect valuable natural resources. The Red River Gorge area hosts thousands of climbers each year and contains over 1,000 climbing routes in ten separate areas with an array of amenities for lodging, food, and other recreation. However, no research has been completed to determine the benefits of these climbing resources for local businesses and residents. This study was designed to investigate the economic impact of rock climbers on the local communities in and around the Red River Gorge area. Surveys obtained from 141 climbing groups over fifty-one days provided travel distances, group size, trip duration, and the amount of expenditure inside and outside the Gorge area. Climbers surveyed spent $34,708.45 in Kentucky, an average of $28.17 per climber per day. Specifically within the delineated Gorge area, the expenditure totaled $25,563.50, or $19.95 per climber per day. The data were analyzed using the input-output model, IMP LAN, to determine the impact on employee compensation, labor income, total value added, and employment in the designated area. The total economic effect inside the Gorge area, based on $1 million in annual climber expenditure, was $307,318.
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Coulson, Evan Ryan. "Shawnee National Forest Rock Climbing and Frontcountry Recreation: Leave No Trace, Awareness, Attitudes and Behaviors." OpenSIUC, 2016. https://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/dissertations/1227.
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Land managers are facing increasing visitation rates on the resources under their care resulting in associated impacts and complex management challenges. As the Shawnee National Forest (SNF) management team updates and revises the 2006 SNF Land and Resource Management Plan, understanding influences on visitor attitudes and behaviors becomes essential. This dissertation presents findings and associated planning recommendations from three social science research efforts on the SNF. The first manuscript examined the effects of the knowledge of, and attitudes towards, Leave No Trace (LNT), as well as visitor perceptions of effectiveness and difficulty to perform minimum impact practices, on the intentions of visitors to perform future minimum impact behaviors. A survey instrument was deployed at ten different recreation sites on the forest to measure the variables of interest. Results indicated that visitor attitudes toward the appropriateness of practicing LNT, perceptions of effectiveness of LNT practices and beliefs pertaining to the ease of LNT practice do, to an extent, influence visitor behavioral intentions. The second manuscript examined the relationships within, and influences of, levels of recreation specialization, place bonding and origin of introduction to the sport of rock climbing on the environmental awareness of climbers. Results indicated that climbers are aware of ecological conditions at Jackson Falls, SNF. Origin of introduction was not a direct influence on impact awareness, as were the constructs of specialization and place, however it was correlated with both constructs suggesting a possible indirect influence. When combined, the constructs of specialization and place influenced climber awareness, albeit the influence was small. Moreover, as the combination of these constructs served as a better predictor than each alone, underlying drivers of influence within each construct is suspected. Recommendations for further research that deconstructs recreation specialization and place bonding are discussed. The third manuscript addressed relationships within, and influences of: past experience; economic investment; skill; centrality to lifestyle; commitment; place familiarity, belongingness, identity, dependence, and rootedness; origin of introduction and knowledge of LNT on rock climbers’ attitudes and self-reported onsite behaviors. Origin was not a direct influence on attitudes or behaviors. Knowledge was correlated with behaviors. While several relationships between variables were uncovered, predictive potential of variables on attitude and behavior was small. Exploratory Factor Analysis was conducted uncovering four underlying unobservable factors within the variables. A proposed model and associated implications are discussed. Management recommendations emerging from this dissertation, including strategies for indirect management opportunities such as persuasive messaging and minimum impact education efforts as well as opportunities for adaptive co-management opportunities with area recreation advocacy groups, were discussed in the concluding chapter.
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Sparks, Jacob Ray. "Extreme Sports: A Study of Free-Solo Rock Climbers." BYU ScholarsArchive, 2016. https://scholarsarchive.byu.edu/etd/6136.
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Extreme sport participation has traditionally been conceptualized as a psychological disorder and something to be avoided (Cashmore, 2002). Viewed in this way, these individuals are thought to be enacting an unhealthy psychology (Ogilvie, 1997; Slanger & Rudestam, 1997). Other research has described participants in extreme sports as sensation seekers under-stimulated by their normal surroundings and out of control (Zuckerman, 1979). Using Brymer's (2005) focused definition of extreme sports, "activities where a mismanaged mistake or accident would most likely result in death, as opposed to injury" (p. 5), this study utilized a phenomenological method to analyze semi-structured interviews with 16 free-solo climbers (n =16). The participants described their motivations in terms of overwhelming enjoyment, heightened focus, and personal progress. These results support more recent research describing extreme sport experiences as opportunities for positive transformation with outcomes including gains in courage, humility, eco-centrism, and emotional engagement (Brymer, 2009; Willig, 2008). These findings challenge the traditional, stereotypical notions of extreme sports participants as young and male (Wheaton & Beal, 2003), sensation-seeking (Zuckerman, 1979), and psychologically unwell (Ogilvie, 1997; Slanger & Rudestam, 1997). Answering Brymer's (2005) call to investigate all extreme sports individually, this study focused on the specific extreme sport of free-solo climbing and found the experience of the free-solo climber is a powerful undertaking enjoyed by young, old, male, and female.
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Green, Alexander Louis. "Dual-Task Performance During Traverse Climbing: Human Factors Implications for Emergency-Response Organisations." Thesis, University of Canterbury. Psychology, 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/10092/7017.
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Two experiments were conducted to investigate how performance on a primary rock climbing task is affected by the inclusion of a secondary word memory task. In Experiment 1, twelve experienced rock climbers completed a dual traverse climb and word memory task, with participants’ performance analysed relative to their single task performance (climbing alone and word memory alone). Participants’ climbing efficiency and word recall were significantly lower in the dual-task condition. Experiment 2 examined the effects of emotional content on climbing performance. Fifteen experienced rock climbers completed two dual-tasks, in which they were asked to recall negatively valenced or neutral words. Climbing efficiency, climbing distance, and word recall were all significantly lower in the dual-task conditions, relative to the single-task conditions. Climbing efficiency and climbing distance were also significantly lower in the negative word dual-task, relative to the neutral word dual-task. The findings from these two experiments have important human factors implications for occupational settings that require climbing-like operations, including search and rescue and fire-fighting.
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Dickson, Tabitha Gwendoline. "Effect of ability, ascent style, and route type on psychological and physiological markers in rock climbing." Thesis, University of Canterbury. School of Sport and Physical Education, 2013. http://hdl.handle.net/10092/9444.
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Rock climbing is thought to rely upon the interaction of various performance components, and has previously been described as a complex multi-faceted sport. It has been suggested that psychological aspects of performance, such as task perception and the interaction of resulting pre-climb anxieties, contribute greatly to the physiological responses and the overall performance during ascent. However, research which seeks to investigate both psychological and physiological responses during specific bouts of rock climbing are few in number. This thesis attempts to contribute to the novel yet limited body of field based psychophysological research relating to rock climbing. To this end, the studies contained within this thesis investigated psychological and physiological responses as a result of difficult on-sight rock climbing. Elaborating upon previous research, additonal factors which are thought to influence these responses were explored. More specifically, differences in responses between ability groups, style of ascent, and route type were investigated.
In study one, differences in psychological and physiological responses with respect to ability level and ascent style were investigated, during a single on-sight ascent. Seventy-two climbers were split into ability groups defined as lower-grade, intermediate, advanced and elite based on self-reported on-sight grades (Ewbank) of ≤17, 18-20, 21-24 and ≥ 25 respectively. Each climber attempted an on-sight ascent of a designated test route set on an indoor artificial climbing wall. A separate test route was set for each ability group which targeted their self-reported ability with respect to best on-sight. Participants were randomly assigned to either a lead or top-rope ascent and climbers were not informed of their style of ascent until 15 min prior to climbing. Responses to the climbing task were measured pre, during, and post-climb using a number of psychological and physiological markers.
In total fifty-two participants successfully completed their on-sight ascents, and data for successful ascents were analysed and compared. Pre-climb variables were considered together in order to investigate pre-climb state, more specifically levels of anxiety, prior to ascent. Results indicated that there were no significant differences for grouped pre-climb variables with respect to ascent style. These results suggest that irrespective of ascent style, successful climbers exhibited similar psychophysiological responses prior to attempting an on-sight ascent. Furthermore, this trend was replicated across all ability groups. These findings were thought to be indicative of the high demand and level of uncerainty imposed by the on-sight condition of ascent, lending support to previous suggestion that an on-sight ascent induces the highest anxiety response. During the climb, HR and were measured and averaged across the entirety of the ascent. When expressed as a percentage of and the average HR and responses during ascent were found to be comparable across ability groups. As such, all ability groups appeared to utilise similar fractions of maximal capacity, with elite climbers successfully ascending a route up to eight difficulty grades harder than those of lower ability, whilst still performing at the same workload intensity. It would appear that oxygen uptake during rock climbing may not be directly related to difficulty or personal ability. A technical advantage, personal climbing style, and possible physiological adaptations may be contributors to more strategic and efficient ascents resulting in the capacity to climb at higher grades of difficulty.
The second study presented within this thesis was comprised of two phases of investigation; (1) to investigate whether psychological and physiological responses to competition-style climbing differed with respect to ability level, and (2) to investigate potential psychological and physiological differences based on route type and outcome (success and failure). In phase 1 of study two, intermediate, advanced and elite climbers attempted an lead on-sight ascent of a competition-style route which increased in difficulty as the climber progressed. The route was set with the intention of being just beyond the upper limits of the elite climbers self-reported best on-sight ability (~26 Ewbank). This was done in order to ensure that a fall from the route was highly likely, even for the elite climbers. All climbers failed to successfuly ascend the test route and as such all climbed to the point of failure resulting in a fall. The results obtained both prior to, and during ascent suggest that the intermediate and advanced climbers in the current study may have been limited by technical ability as opposed to physical exhaustion, or increased levels of anxiety. Elite climbers were to be able to maintain a more sustained physical effort during the more difficult phases of the climb. This appeared to be reflected in post-climb blood lactate concentration and ratings of task demand with respect to both physical demand and effort. As such it may be that elite climbers are more accustomed to maximal effort and demonstrate an increased tolerance to the higher exercise intensity required during more difficult ascents.
In the second phase of study two the psychological and physiological responses of climbers in a competitive setting obtained in phase 1, were compared with those exhibited by participants during both successful and unsuccessful lead on-sight ascents in study one. The aim of study two phase 2 was to determine whether the responses of successful climbers differed from those who succeeded by reaching the top of a route, and performances in a competitive context where success is denoted by the distance achieved by a climbers on their ascent. The main findings in this instance were that although there were no significant differences observed between categories of ascent (successful, unsuccessful and competition) for grouped pre-climb variables, trends in CSAI-2R responses indicated high cognitive anxiety coupled with lower self-confidence prior to unsuccessful ascents. As such it may be that self-confidence acts as a buffer in moderating success in rock climbing, demonstrating the role of positive emotions and their impact upon performance as opposed to the detrimental effect of the negative. A second finding of this study was that there appeared to be a differing HR- relationship based on ascent category. Modest increases in were shown for all ascents, irrespective of ability level. A plateau in response was accompanied by a similar plateau in HR response during successful ascents, yet HR was shown to increase in a linear fashion until point of failure during unsuccessful ascents. It is possible that these findings highlight the presence of a climbing specific limitation.
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O'Hara, Michael E. "Congestion effects in valuation of recreation land using revealed preference methods an application to rock climbing resources at New York's Shawangunk Ridge /." Diss., Online access via UMI:, 2007.
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Taylor, Julia Ann. "The Effects of Rock Climbing on Functional Strength, Spatial Reasoning, and Executive Function in Children with Autism." Ohio Dominican University Honors Theses / OhioLINK, 2017. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=oduhonors1494246529760199.
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Wood, Kerry Todd. "Assessing Recreation Impacts to Cliffs in Shenandoah National Park: Integrating Visitor Observation with Trail and Recreation Site Measurements." Thesis, Virginia Tech, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/10919/33032.
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The rock outcrops and cliffs of Shenandoah National Park provide habitat for several rare and endangered plant and animal species. The location of the world-famous ridgeline parkway, Skyline Drive, makes many outcrops and cliffs within the park readily accessible to the parkâ s 1.2 million annual visitors. Consequently, visitor use of cliff areas has led to natural resource impacts, including marked decreases in size and vigor of known rare plant populations.
Despite the clear ecological value and potential threats to the natural resources at cliff areas in the park, managers possess little information on visitor use of cliff sites and presently have no formal planning document to guide management. Thus, a park wide study of cliff sites was initiated during the 2005 visitor use season. As part of this research effort, the study presented in this thesis integrated data from resource impact measurements and visitor use observation to help assess the effects of recreational use on the natural resources of one heavily used cliff site in the park, Little Stony Man Cliffs.
Results of resource impact measurements indicate that several nodal areas of high disturbance (bare soil) are present on the cliff-top and cliff-bottom. Additionally, visitor observation data point to several possible visitor use factors that may contribute to cliff-top impacts, including concentrated levels of use during certain times of day and days of the week, and frequent trampling of soil and vegetation by visitors. The information from the study presented in this thesis will help assist Shenandoah National Park staff in developing a cliff resource management plan that will protect park resources while providing opportunities for visitor enjoyment.Master of Science
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McMillan, Michele Ann. "The impact of rock climbing on vascular plants, bryophytes, lichens, and land snails of the Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada." Thesis, National Library of Canada = Bibliothèque nationale du Canada, 2000. http://www.collectionscanada.ca/obj/s4/f2/dsk1/tape2/PQDD_0023/MQ51083.pdf.
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Anderson, Madison Lee. "Are we on the same page? Informing adaptive management of outdoor rock climbing using document analysis and cognitive mapping." The Ohio State University, 2021. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=osu1619137676375621.
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West, Amanda Jayne. ""But you didn't think what you were doing was risky" : the role of risk in mediating the identities and practices of rock climbers." Thesis, University of Manchester, 2012. https://www.research.manchester.ac.uk/portal/en/theses/but-you-didnt-think-what-you-were-doing-was-risky-the-role-of-risk-in-mediating-the-identities-and-practices-of-rock-climbers(407bac21-1feb-40a2-a6e5-749e99846a05).html.
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This thesis examines the multiple meanings attached to risk by a small group of climbers based in the North of England. The study is anchored, empirically in sustained observational fieldwork, and in-depth interviews with adult subjects (9 females aged 22-77, 14 males aged 20-70). In completing this thesis, I believe I have made an original contribution to knowledge in three areas. In re-imagining risk in climbing, I argue that climbers do not participate in climbing because of a desire to take risks, rather, they make every effort to assess, manage and control risks when climbing. In reconceptualising risk in climbing, I present a conceptual model derived from the interviewees’ accounts of risk. This model situates risk in climbing with risk in everyday life. The basis of my third original contribution to knowledge lies in the relationship between risk and identity. The interviewees differentiated between safe and unsafe climbers through reference to embodied climbing practices. The way a climber in this study assessed and managed risk marked them as a safe climber or conversely an unsafe climber. Furthermore, the data revealed both a gendered and an age-related dimension to the relationship between risk and identity. The desire to retain the identity of a climber over time was so strong that older climbers reported modifying their practices to sustain their status as a member of the insider group. In addition, the female interviewees described how perceived family responsibilities mediated membership of the insider group, and their identity as a safe and qualified climber. The female climbers in this study described how such responsibilities led them, like older climbers, to draw back from the edge. These findings have implications beyond the sport of rock climbing and its participants. This research has the potential to inform and enhance our appreciation of risk in other lifestyle sports and moreover, whilst there is a tendency to distinguish between lifestyle and traditional sports, there may be some application of the account of risk presented here to an exploration of risk in traditional sports. The arguments presented in this study also contribute to an understanding or risk more generally. A key conclusion from this study is that risk is best understood where the meanings attached to it are derived from individuals’ everyday lived experience and relatedly where risk is situated within the broadest context of their lives. Finally, the data reported here suggests that risk activities and risk-taking should be explored in relation to an individual’s perceived identity and crucially, the significance of risk for the construction of that identity.
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Murdock, Erik Daniel. "Perspectives on Rock Climbing Fixed Anchors Through the Lens of the Wilderness Act: Social, Legal and Environmental Implications at Joshua Tree National Park, California." Diss., The University of Arizona, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/10150/194151.
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The issue of fixed anchors in wilderness challenges modern interpretations of the Wilderness Act. The Wilderness Act can be interpreted to allow or preclude the placement of fixed anchors in designated wilderness areas depending on whether the interpreter chooses a literal or general interpretation of the law's meaning. Place-based management options, supported by descriptive and evaluative study results, may be more closely aligned to Wilderness Act directives than nationwide, blanket policy. This research is focused on understanding the role of fixed anchors in designated wilderness in order to develop management options that protect wilderness values without hindering wilderness users. The unique nature of each wilderness area and climbing resource, in combination with distinct preferences and motivations of different climber populations, lends itself to managing fixed anchors through place-based policy that considers the landscape and the preferences of individual visitors.Joshua Tree National Park [JTNP] was chosen as the location for this case study because it has committed to establishing fixed anchor management that accommodates rock climbing and protects wilderness resources. JTNP has prohibited the placement of fixed anchors in wilderness since February 1993. By combining resource inventories, spatial modeling, and wilderness climber profiles, study results reveal that wilderness visitor destination choice is not dependent on the location of fixed anchors, but the quality, difficulty, and distance to destinations. These results can be used as the basis for a wilderness fixed anchor permit system and demonstrate that fixed anchors can fit within the confines of the Wilderness Act. Place-based management options, relative to national policies, can minimize administrative burdens and limit the geographic extent of unintended regulatory effects. The Wilderness Act's minimum administrative requirement mandate promotes this type of management style. This study of the benign fixed anchor at JTNP illustrates the power of the scientific method to neutralize wilderness recreation conflict and support streamlined wilderness management, while at the same time highlighting the shortcomings, and strengths, of the Wilderness Act as it is applied to a new era of wilderness recreation management.
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Baglien, Ronald E. "The Role and Perception of Risk in High-risk Sports Participants: A Grounded Theory Study of Rock Climbers." PDXScholar, 1996. https://pdxscholar.library.pdx.edu/open_access_etds/4916.
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Previous research examining high-risk sports participation has yielded discrepancies between the role assigned to risk and the perceptions of climbers regarding risk. Risk, as it applies to high-risk sport participation, has not been sufficiently defined in the literature. The current study sought to develop, by means of a grounded theory approach, a new, dynamic operational definition of risk as it applies to rock climbers, and to examine the role of risk management as a modifying factor in the perception of risk and its impact on motivation and participation. Nineteen subjects (twelve male and seven female) averaging 14.7 years of climbing experience were interviewed. A model for the processing of risk in high-risk sports participants is presented in which risk is perceived by the participant as operating on three levels: actual risk, assessed risk, and mental or perceived risk. The exposure to actual and assessed risk does not appear to be a goal of the climbers interviewed, but does provide meaning to decisions made by the participant, as well as defining limits and boundaries. Mental or perceived risk serves to provide a mental challenge to be overcome by the climber, and may provide a thrill or "adrenaline rush" that is sought out by some participants. The elimination of risk would change most participants' perceptions of climbing. Motivation would be negatively affected in most cases. The model presented describes a process of risk awareness, assessment, acceptance, mitigation, results, and consequences that is situation specific. The perception and assessment of risk varies from individual to individual, as well as across time. Individual climbers have a well defined risk threshold: a point at which the risk to which they are exposing themselves becomes too great and the decision will be made to reject risk. This threshold is stable and does not shift as the result of experience. It is suggested that future research which seeks to examine the role of risk in high-risk sports participation focus on the process by which risk is identified, evaluated, and accepted, as this will be of the most benefit to the participants.
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Wilson, William Richard. "Are Rock Climbers Crunchy? : Serious Leisure, Place Attachment and Environmental Concern in the Shawangunks." Ohio University / OhioLINK, 2013. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=ohiou1366130272.
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Cavka, Dennis, and Victor Franzén. "Jamar och repetitionsmaximum-test : Samband mellan handgreppsstyrka, 1RM-pull-ups och 1RM benspark hos klättrare." Thesis, Uppsala universitet, Åsenlöf: Fysioterapi, 2020. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:uu:diva-412762.
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Background Handgrip strength claims to reflect general strength and correlates with tests of strength, particularly to the lower extremity. Few studies examine correlations between Jamar and the upper body and mainly focus on populations with lower strength. Climbers were assumed to have higher levels of strength. Purpose The purpose was to investigate grip strength, 1RM pull-up and 1RM leg extension in climbers in Uppsala and examine the relationship between grip strength and the 1RM tests to further evaluate grip strength as a measure of general strength. Method The study is a descriptive cross-sectional study testing 25 climbers. Jamar, 3-5RM pull-up and 3-5RM leg extension are done in succession with protocols for standardisation and 1RM is calculated based on Epley's formula. The descriptive measurements are then analyzed and put in correlation. Results The relationship between 1RM pull-up and grip strength was moderately strong and statistically significant, r = 0.597 (p = 0.002). The relationship between 1RM leg extension and grip strength was moderately strong and statistically significant r = 0.446 (p = 0.026). Conclusion Handgrip strength measured with Jamar in climbers doesn’t deviate from the general population. A moderately strong relationship was found between Jamar and the 1RM tests. Further studies should put Jamar in relation to different tests of muscle strength in populations with varying levels of strength to evaluate Jamar as a measure of general muscle strength. Protocols for standardization of Jamar needs to be further developed.Bakgrund Handgreppsstyrka hävdas kunna avspegla generell muskelstyrka och har visats korrelera med olika test av maximal styrka, i synnerhet i nedre extremitet. Få studier undersöker samband till den övre extremiteten och fokuserar uteslutande på populationer med låg muskelstyrka. Klättrare antogs initialt ha högre muskelstyrka i samtliga test. Syfte Syftet med denna studie var att hos klättrare i Uppsala undersöka greppstyrkan respektive 1RM pull-ups och 1RM benspark samt att studera respektive samband mellan greppstyrka och 1RM-testen för vidare undersöka handgreppsstyrka mätt med Jamar som ett mått på generell muskelstyrka. Metod Studien är en deskriptiv tvärsnittsstudie som testar 25 klättrare. Jamar, 3-5RM i pull-up samt 3-5RM i benspark testas i succession utifrån standardiseringsprotokoll och 1RM, den maximala vikt som en repetition kan utföras med beräknas sedan utifrån Epleys formel. De olika deskriptiva måtten analyseras samt ställs i korrelation till varandra. Resultat Sambandet mellan 1RM-pull-up och maximal handgreppsstyrka mätt med Jamar var måttligt starkt och statistiskt signifikant, r=0.597 (p=0.002). Sambandet mellan 1RM benspark och maximal handgreppsstyrka mätt med Jamar var måttligt starkt och statistiskt signifikant r=0.446 (p=0.026). Slutsats Handgreppsstyrka mätt med Jamar hos klättrare avviker inte från den generella populationen. Handgreppstyrkan hade ett måttligt stark samband till både 1RM benspark och 1RM pull-up. Vidare studier krävs som ställer Jamar i relation till olika muskeltester och styrkenivåer för vidare utvärdera mätresultat från Jamar som ett mått på generell muskelstyrka. Standardiseringsprotokoll för Jamar behöver vidareutvecklas.
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Hennings, John. "A didactic analysis of student learning in the reciprocal style of teaching." Laramie, Wyo. : University of Wyoming, 2009. http://proquest.umi.com/pqdweb?did=1939245911&sid=1&Fmt=2&clientId=18949&RQT=309&VName=PQD.
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Bartoš, Karel. "Rozvoj skalního lezení." Master's thesis, Vysoké učení technické v Brně. Fakulta architektury, 2017. http://www.nusl.cz/ntk/nusl-316319.
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The following thesis deals with consequences of human activities at rock sites, aiming to address issues related to the popularity of this sport. Using all available analytical data I determined most suitable locations to serve as an alternative to current overcrowded sites. Consequently, for experimental use of architectonical tools, I selected an area near Brno, namely: Veveří, Amálka, Sokolí rocks, rocks at Řikonína, Sochorka, Nedvědice, Vysoká rock at Štěpánov and Bohuňovské rocks. In order to link all those sites I proposed a building of adventurous disposition which wouldn’t rival the rocks themselves but rather emphasize their atmosphere. In the end I picked a bivouac, hung in treetops, to fulfil that role. The character of said building allows for its set ups beyond the selected area as well. Additional buildings are linked to bivouac as well, creating a well functional group. As such, these buildings represent a symbol as they make other, less known and eroded sites more attractive to potential visitors.
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Orth, Dominic R. "Dynamics of acquiring adaptive skills in a complex multi-articular task: Constraints on metastable actions." Thesis, Queensland University of Technology, 2016. https://eprints.qut.edu.au/94003/4/Dominic_Orth_Thesis.pdf.
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This thesis presents data supporting a re-definition of the concept of learning and transfer of skills in physical activity and sport performance contexts. The key findings indicate that during practice, environmental designs that promote exploratory behaviour facilitate improved performance in modified conditions.
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Castonguay, Steve. "Traumatismes et décès en escalade au Québec." Mémoire, Université de Sherbrooke, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/11143/8818.
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Résumé : INTRODUCTION : L’étude vise à établir un portrait des traumatismes et de la pratique de l’escalade au Québec: 1) en décrivant les caractéristiques des décès associés à l’escalade au Québec; 2) en décrivant les caractéristiques des consultations à l’urgence associées à l’escalade; 3) en estimant la prévalence à vie et l’incidence des traumatismes en escalade, ainsi qu’en explorant les facteurs de risques ou de protection associés.
MÉTHODES : 1) Une série de cas des décès en escalade a été analysée à partir d’une extraction des données des rapports d’investigation du coroner, entre 1986 et 2013. 2) Une série de cas des consultations à l’urgence a été analysée à partir des données du Système canadien hospitalier d'information et de recherche en prévention des traumatismes, entre 1992 et 2011. 3) Une étude descriptive transversale par questionnaire en ligne qui a été administré auprès des membres de la Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade (FQME), entre le 8 avril 2014 et le 3 juin 2014.
RÉSULTATS : 1) et 2) Les 14 décès et 29 cas de consultations à l’urgence retenus pour l’analyse sont survenus en majorité chez des hommes âgés entre 18 et 29 ans. La chute du grimpeur est la principale cause de décès ou de traumatismes aigus. 3) Avec une participation de 19 % (765/4 109), la prévalence à vie de traumatismes a été estimée à 11,1 % pour l’escalade sur structure artificielle, 11,3 % pour l’escalade de rocher et 7,6 % pour l’escalade de glace. Une approximation de l’incidence dans les derniers 12 mois a été estimée à 0,37 événement à l’origine de traumatismes aigus par 1 000 heures de pratique sur structure artificielle d’escalade (SAE), 0,17 pour l’escalade de rocher et 0,10 pour l’escalade de glace.
Le jeune âge a été associé à la survenue de traumatismes aigus (p < 0,01) pour tous les types d’escalade et le faible nombre d’années de pratique, à la survenue de traumatisme en escalade de rocher (p = 0,03). Les itinéraires de niveaux de difficulté élevés (p = 0,01) ou une plus grande intensité de la pratique (p < 0,01) ont été associés à la survenue de traumatismes sur SAE.
CONCLUSION : L’escalade est une activité physique sécuritaire avec des prévalences et des incidences de traumatismes très faibles. Les résultats permettront d’orienter les interventions pour améliorer la sécurité en escalade.Abstract : INTRODUCTION: This study aims to produce a portrait of injuries associated with rock climbing in Quebec by: 1) describing the characteristics of deaths associated with climbing in Quebec; 2) describing the characteristics of emergency room visits associated with climbing; 3) estimating the lifetime prevalence and the incidence rate for climbing injuries, and by exploring the associated risk or protective factors. METHODS: 1) A case series of climbing related deaths was analysed by extracting data from coroners’ investigation reports, between 1986 and 2013. 2) A case series of emergency room consultations was analysed from data provided by the Canadian Hospitals Injury Reporting and Prevention Program, between 1992 and 2011. 3) A cross-sectional descriptive study using a self-administered online survey sent to members of the Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade (FQME), from April 8th, 2014 to June 3rd, 2014. RESULTS: 1) and 2) Of the 14 deaths and 29 cases of emergency room visits selected and analysed, the majority were men aged between 18 and 29 years. Climber falls were the leading cause of death or acute injury. 3) With a participation rate of 19 % (765/4,109), the lifetime prevalence for trauma was estimated at 11.1% on artificial climbing structures, 11.3% for rock climbing, and 7.6% for ice climbing. An approximation of the incidence in the last 12-months was estimated at 0.37 events causing injuries per 1,000 hours on artificial climbing structures (ACS), 0.17 for rock climbing and 0.10 for ice climbing. Younger age was associated with the occurrence of acute injuries (p < .01) for all types of climbing and the small number of climbing practice years with the occurrence of acute injuries during rock climbing (p = .03). Routes of higher climbing difficulty (p = .01) or a greater intensity of climbing practice (p < .01) and the occurrence of acute injuries on ACS. CONCLUSION: Climbing is a safe physical activity, with very low prevalence and incidence of acute injury. Results will help interventions in order to improve climbing safety.
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Treadway, Shane M. "A silicon-cast device that aids in securing rope ends by ensuring a figure-eight knot is tied for use in gym and rock climbing." Thesis, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2008. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/45297.
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Thesis (S.B.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Mechanical Engineering, 2008.Includes bibliographical references (leaf 20).
Between the years of 1953 and 2005, there were 253 fatalities from rappel failure/error. Some of these deaths may have been prevented if a stopper knot was tied at the end of the rope. Current climbing habits do not reinforce the tying of a stopper knot. More people are learning to climb in the gym and do not know risk reducing habits when beginning to climb outside, such as tying a stopper knot. The Hedgehog is a silicon device that reinforces the risk reducing habit of tying a stopper knot by a combination of form and color. A specially designed form aids in correct knot tying and the color signals the climber their attention is needed. When the Hedgehog was given to climbers in a climbing gym and had a success rate of 70%. Climbers without the Hedgehog had a success rate of only 8%. Success was defined as having a stopper knot in the rope when the climber began to ascend the route.
by Shane M. Treadway.
S.B.
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Carr, Christopher. "Variation in Environmental Impact at Rock Climb Areas in Red River Gorge Geological Area and Adjacent Clifty Wilderness, Daniel Boone National Forest, Kentucky." University of Cincinnati / OhioLINK, 2007. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=ucin1178812135.
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Ehlová, Pavla. "Ochrana a využití skalních oblastí v České republice v cestovním ruchu." Master's thesis, Vysoká škola ekonomická v Praze, 2011. http://www.nusl.cz/ntk/nusl-164058.
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This diploma thesis focuses on the conservation and possible uses of rock areas in the Czech Republic in tourism, specifically for climbing. The thesis delimits climbing as a type of tourism, which is researched from the various points of view, and the behaviour of its participants is characterised. The potential of the Czech Republic as a destination suitable for climbing tourism is described, as well as the impact of climbing to the animate nature, terrain and microrelief. The thesis also deals with the conservation of rock areas - informs about legislative requirements and other regulations of climbing, especially in protected areas. One chapter is also dedicated to the current trends in climbing, which limit the uses of climbing areas in a sustainable way. A survey carried out for the purpose of this thesis tries to reveal the relation of climbers to the protection of climbing areas. Finally, the thesis presents suggestions, how to use rock areas in compliance with a sustainable development of tourism.
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Carr, Christopher. "Research to Inform the Management of Protected Natural Areas." University of Cincinnati / OhioLINK, 2014. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=ucin1415615423.
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Portela, Andrey. "A influência da fadiga no tempo de reação de praticantes de escalada em rocha." Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina, 2005. http://tede.udesc.br/handle/handle/350.
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Rock climbing is a sport that has been developing and becoming more popular in Brazil. The sport is considered dangerous by nature in which the risk is always around and accidents aren t rare, most of them can lead to death, this situation demands attention and care of its practitioners. This study aimed to evaluate the Reaction Time, using simple visual stimulation, simple audio stimulation and discrimination stimulation (Visual or auditory) of the rock climbing athletes, considering level of fatigue and experience in the sport. The work is characterized as a field research of diagnostic descriptive nature (RUDIO, 1986), being carried through among male rock climbers of the Great Florianópolis, not taking the age nor the amount of sport practice into consideration. The sample was chosen through the process of intentional non probabilistic selection, participated of the research 20 athletes, between June and July of 2005. For the data collection were used a software for the evaluation of reaction time (ANDRADE et al., 2002), a questionnaire for characterization of the climbers, inventory of the anxiety state IDATE (SPIELBERGER et al., 1979), the Borg RPE scale (BORG, 2000), plus an artificial wall for rock climbing. The descriptive statistics was used for the data treatment. From the study there were as main results the average of reaction time of climbers for the visual stimulations, audio and discrimination stimulation, which are 315 (±48,03) ms, 304 (±52,22) ms and 347 (±49,45) respectively. It is concluded that the influence of fatigue in reaction time is negative and significant for the performance of climbers, proving that: bigger the effort, greater the influence. The different experience levels of the athletes in this modality weren t a factor of positive interference in the performance of reaction time.
A escalada em rocha é um esporte que vem se desenvolvendo e tornandose cada vez mais popular no Brasil. O esporte é considerado por natureza perigoso onde, o risco está sempre presente e acidentes não são raros, sendo que muitos deles podem levar à morte exigindo atenção e cuidado de seus praticantes. Este estudo teve como objetivo avaliar o Tempo de Reação com estímulo visual simples, estímulo auditivo simples e de discriminação (Visual ou auditivo) de atletas de escalada em rocha considerando o nível de fadiga e a experiência no esporte. Trata-se de uma pesquisa de campo, de natureza descritiva diagnóstica (RUDIO, 1986), sendo realizado com escaladores de rocha da grande Florianópolis, investigando praticantes do sexo masculino sem restrição a idade e ao tempo de prática neste esporte. A amostra foi escolhida através do processo de seleção não probabilística intencional, participando da pesquisa 20 atletas, no período entre junho e julho de 2005. Para a coleta dos dados foi utilizado um software de avaliação do tempo de reação (ANDRADE et al., 2002), um questionário para caracterização dos escaladores, inventário de ansiedade estado - IDATE (SPIELBERGER et al., 1979), a escala RPE de Borg (BORG, 2000) e uma parede artificial de escalada em rocha. A estatística descritiva foi utilizada para o tratamento dos dados. A média do tempo de reação dos escaladores para os estímulos visuais, auditivos e de discriminação, que é de 315 (±48,03) ms, 304 (±52,22) ms e 347 (±49,45) ms respectivamente. Conclui-se que a influência da fadiga no tempo de reação é negativa e significativa para o desempenho dos escaladores, comprovando-se que quanto maior o esforço, maior a influência; Os diferentes níveis de experiência dos atletas nesta modalidade não foram um fator de interferência positiva no desempenho do tempo de reação.
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Petrovajová, Gabriela. "Výběrový experiment - preference horolezců při výběru lezeckých oblastí." Master's thesis, Vysoká škola ekonomická v Praze, 2009. http://www.nusl.cz/ntk/nusl-12473.
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This diploma thesis is concerned with the use of the choice experiment method for modelling the demand for recreation of rock-climbing in Czech Republic. The main scope of this diploma thesis is to find the main atributes for the individual's decision making about the choice of recreation area and derivation of their implicit prices. The next point of this diploma thesis is to find out a socioeconomic sctructure of the respondents. The theoretical part involves an explanation of the main economic terms, a detailed description of the choice experiment method and a list of papers concerned with a rock climbing. The practical part describes the procedure of the aplication choice experiment method step by step -- the questioning preparation, the data survey, the data analysis and the interpretation of results. The conditional logit is used to the choice experiment analysis.
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Nilsson, Björn, and John Linder. "Sport Structure and Goal Oriented Motivation." Thesis, Umeå universitet, Institutionen för psykologi, 2020. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:umu:diva-167443.
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The aim of this study was to assess differences in goal orientation between athletes practicing two different sports. These sports differ structurally in how they are performed and in regard to factors influencing goal orientation. The achievement goal theory (AGT) states that individuals’ motivational orientation is made up of two aspects, task oriented motivation and ego oriented motivation. These two goal orientations are independent of one another and are affected by several factors. The effect on goal orientation by factors influenced by coaches, parents and peers is well documented. The two hypotheses were that climbers would be more task-oriented than squash players and secondly that squash players would be more ego-oriented than climbers. The study was conducted as a quasi-experimental between group comparison. 81 sport practitioners, 43 rock climbers and 38 squash players, took the Task and Ego in Sport Questionnaire (TEOSQ) in connection with performing their sport. Independent t-tests of both sub scales showed a difference in ego-motivation between groups, but not in task-motivation.Syftet med den här studien var fastställa skillnader i målorientering mellan idrottare som utför olika sporter. Dessa sporter skiljer sig strukturellt i utförande och i avseende av faktorer som påverkar målorientering. Målorienteringsteorin (AGT) säger att individers målorientering består av två aspekter, uppgiftsorienterad motivation och egoorienterad motivation. Dessa två orienteringar är oberoende av varandra och påverkas av flera olika faktorer. Effekten på målorientering av faktorer som påverkas av tränare, föräldrar och kamrater är väldokumenterad. Den första hypotesen var att klättrare är mer uppgifts-orienterade än vad squashspelare är och den andra att squashspelare är mer egoorienterade än vad klättrare är. Studien utfördes som en kvasiexperimentell mellangruppsjämförelse. 81 idrottare, 43 klättrare och 38 squashspelare fyllde i formuläret Task and Ego in Sport Questionnaire (TEOSQ) i samband med sin träning. Oberoende t-test visade en skillnad i ego-motivation, men inte i uppgifts-motivation mellan grupperna.
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Kramer, Anna Marie. "The Power of the Tower: Contesting History at Bear Lodge/Devils Tower National Monument." Scholarship @ Claremont, 2016. http://scholarship.claremont.edu/pomona_theses/151.
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Bear Lodge/Devils Tower National Monument, a spectacular rock formation in northeastern Wyoming, has a multiplicity of meanings, not all of which were fully acknowledged until the 1990s. It is widely known as a geologic wonder, the first national monument, a marker of local and pioneer heritage, and a premier rock climbing area. In the 1980s and ‘90s, however, the National Park Service began to acknowledge that the Tower also holds cultural and historical meaning for the Northern Plains tribes, dating back long before the colonization of the American West. Some of the tribes expressed to the Park Service that they were offended by rock climbers desecrating the Tower, a sacred site, leading the Park Service to seek to compromise between these competing uses of this public land. The controversy over climbing at Bear Lodge/Devils Tower was, and remains, a debate over history, and this thesis examines the historical foundations for the discourses of climbers, local white residents, tribal members, and the Park Service, as these various groups asserted their claims to this public space. This thesis contends that the language used by climbers and local white residents in arguing against the Park Service’s accommodation of tribal cultures and beliefs appropriated the languages of spirituality and tradition used by the tribes, and sought to delegitimize the tribal claims to the Tower. The Park Service is complicit in controlling the discourses surrounding the Tower and erasing the traditions and complex history of the Northern Plains tribal ties to this sacred place.
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Herman, Jan. "Podnikatelská plán pro založení boulder centra." Master's thesis, Vysoké učení technické v Brně. Fakulta podnikatelská, 2010. http://www.nusl.cz/ntk/nusl-222531.
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The Master Thesis deals with a business plan for setting up a Boulder Centre in Brno. The centre will comprise of a gym for rock climbing and a bar. The bussines plan is based on economic analyses and determines the conditions and chances of the project implementation.
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張健智. "攀岩運動的持續參與、非持續參與及非參與的原因及個人素質的差異 : 以澳門、廣州及武漢的三所高校為例." Thesis, University of Macau, 2012. http://umaclib3.umac.mo/record=b2586603.
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Lega, Antonio. "Il trattamento riabilitativo nelle lesioni del sistema delle pulegge dei flessori delle dita nei climber. Scoping Review." Bachelor's thesis, Alma Mater Studiorum - Università di Bologna, 2021. http://amslaurea.unibo.it/24580/.
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Finger flexor pulley system (FFPS) injuries are a specific clinical condition that is common in sport climbing’s domain. The grading system of FFPS has 4 levels of injury. Its general symptoms are: severe and sudden pain and swelling in the pulley area, possible numbness and the appearance of localized hematoma, the sound of a pop during the injury, loss of strength and muscular function, ROM limitation, “bowstringing”.
Given the peculiarity of this injury, scientific evidence around it still is limited, and the role of the Physiotherapist is expected to be deepened and clarified.
Objective
This Scoping Review aims to analyze the scientific evidence about FFPS injuries in climbers and highlight the most effective rehabilitation treatments.
Methods
The research was carried out between May and August 2021 by means of these databases: PubMed, Cochrane Library and PEDro. Resulting from the research, 4 articles coherent with the research question and inclusion criteria were selected; they analyze conservative interventions in climbers with FFPS injury.
Results
The analyzed studies recommend that the conservative approach should be the first-choice treatment in FFPS injuries from the 1st to the 3rd level, while for the 4th level of FFPS injuries they recommend surgical repair and post-surgery physiotherapy. Usage of H-tape and pulley-protection splint (PPS) showed a statistically significant reduction of tendon to bone distance (TBD) and an increase in muscle strength.
Conclusions
The rehabilitation treatment in FFPS injuries has proven to be mostly effective and very important in bringing back climbers to their pre-injury level of performance. The results in term of complete functionality recovery and pain elimination were satisfactory. Usage of H-Tape and PPS is recommended during the rehabilitation period and RTS period because they have been proven effective for regaining mobility, strength, and function.
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Friedrich, Juliane. "Bergsport und Naturschutz im Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz - Wirkungen, Konflikte, Lösungsmöglichkeiten." Master's thesis, Saechsische Landesbibliothek- Staats- und Universitaetsbibliothek Dresden, 2011. http://nbn-resolving.de/urn:nbn:de:bsz:14-qucosa-63874.
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Mit der zunehmend künstlichen Gestaltung des menschlichen Lebensumfeldes verstärkt sich das Bedürfnis nach Aufenthalt in der Natur. Freizeit und Erholung sind dabei zunehmend von einem Drang nach Selbsterfahrung und Selbstverwirklichung geprägt. Freigabe und Genuß rücken zunehmend an die Stelle fester Formen und Regeln. In diesem Zeichen steht auch die Entwicklung immer neuer Trend- und Outdoorsportarten. Die Vielfalt der Sportarten und die stärkere Frequentierung führen zu einer stärkeren Belastung naturnaher Gebiete.
Im Gegenzug schwinden weiterhin natürliche Lebensräume und mit ihren Tier- und Pflanzenarten. Noch naturnah verbliebene Lebensräume erhalten daher eine besondere Bedeutung für den Schutz von Natur und Landschaft. Gleichzeitig konzentrieren sich auf diese Freiräume Freizeit- und Erholungsaktivitäten. Sämtliche Natursportarten, einschließlich des Klettersports müssen sich daher in das Spannungsfeld von verstärkter Nutzungsintensität und begrenztem Platzangebot einordnen.
Seit der Gründung des gleichnamigen Nationalparkes 1990 steht auch die Sächsische Schweiz verstärkt im Spannungsfeld von Naturschutz und Erholungsnutzung. Das landschaftlich eindrucksvolle Gebiet ist Rückzugsraum von Flora und Fauna, darunter einiger bedrohter Tier- und Pflanzenarten. Gleichzeitig gehört es zu den ältesten und bekanntesten Mittelgebirgsklettergebieten der Welt.
Sowohl Bergsport als auch Naturschutz stellen Raumansprüche an die Sächsische Schweiz - Raumansprüche, die sich in ihrer Wirkungsweise wechselseitig beeinflussen. Insbesondere die bergsportliche Inanspruchnahme des Naturraumes führt zu einem raumbezogenen Nutzungskonflikt. Zur Betrachtung und Bearbeitung dieses Konfliktes ist die Geographie mit ihrer integrativen Betrachtungsweise der Landschaft als Wirkungsgefüge aus physischen, biotischen und anthropogenen Sachverhalten bevorzugt geeignet.
Ziel des Nationalparkes ist es, die in Europa einmaligen naturräumlichen Eigenarten und die artenreiche Tier- und Pflanzenwelt zu bewahren sowie den ungestörten Ablauf der Naturvorgänge zu gewährleisten. Dazu ist eine Beruhigung der Lebensräume notwendig. Der Bergsport als touristische Erholungsnutzung hingegen strebt eine möglichst beschränkungsfreie Ausübung des Sports oder aber zumindest den Erhalt des Kletterns in seinem bisherigen Umfang an.
Freies, uneingeschränktes Klettern in der Natur ist jedoch nur so lange möglich, wie es die Belastungsgrenzen des betreffenden Ökosystems nicht überschreitet. Da es sich bei Klettergebieten in der Regel um relativ naturnahe Räume und Rückzugsgebiete von Flora und Fauna handelt, werden hier oft schon frühzeitig Maßnahmen zum Schutz derselben eingeleitet. Dazu gehören räumliche und zeitliche Zutrittsbeschränkungen.
Eine Alternative zu Sperrungen stellt die Aufstellung von Klettergebietskonzeptionen dar, die sowohl die Belange des Bergsports als auch des Naturschutzes berücksichtigen. In der Sächsischen Schweiz werden zwischen Nationalparkverwaltung und Sächsischem Bergsteigerbund seit 1996 Verhandlungen über eine Bergsportkonzeption geführt, welche die Grundlage für die zukünftige bergsportliche Nutzung des Nationalparkes darstellt. Daneben enthalten die Sächsischen Kletterregeln differenzierte Gebote für eine möglichst naturschonende Ausübung des Bergsports.
Die Akzeptanz der behördlichen Einschränkungen im Rahmen der Bergsportkonzeption sowie die Einhaltung der traditionellen Sächsischen Kletterregeln sind Voraussetzung für eine Erhaltung des Klettersports in der Sächsischen Schweiz. Dazu sind Information und Weiterbildung der aktiven Kletterer notwendig. Umweltbildung als Instrument des vorsorgenden Naturschutzes kann dabei im Sinne einer verstehenden Lösungsstrategie zu freiwilligen Verhaltensänderungen und Verständnis von Zusammenhängen beitragen.
Während der Arbeit erhobene Daten belegen, daß in die Kletterausbildung bereits naturschutzrelevante Themen einfließen. Allerdings existiert bisher kein umfassendes Lehrmaterial zum Thema Bergsport und Naturschutz in der Sächsischen Schweiz. Daraus resultiert möglicherweise der vielfach geäußerte Wunsch nach zusammenfassenden Informationsmaterialien. Diesem Anliegen könnte ein Umweltbildungsprogramm Bergsport und Naturschutz in der Sächsischen Schweiz gerecht werden.
Im Rahmen der vorliegenden Arbeit wurde ein solches Umweltbildungsprogramm erarbeitet. Es setzt die naturräumlichen Gegebenheiten der Sächsischen Schweiz zur Art der bergsportlichen Inanspruchnahme in Beziehung, zeigt Grundlagen von Geboten der Sächsischen Kletterregeln auf und erläutert behördliche Regelungen. Einsatzfähig könnte dieses Bildungsprogramm zukünftig in der Kletterausbildung sein.
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Hägglund, Eva, and Filip Nyman. "Muskulär profilering av underkroppen hos manliga amatörklättrare. : En undersökning av styrka och power i nedre extremiteter hos klättrare på avancerad och moderat nivå." Thesis, Umeå universitet, Idrottsmedicin, 2018. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:umu:diva-149465.
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Klättring som utförs på överhängande ytor blir allt vanligare och kräver mer avancerad användning av underkroppen. Då tidigare forskning i synnerhet undersökt överkroppsstyrka saknas en muskulär profilering av underkroppen hos klättrare vilket således var syftet med denna studie. Frågeställningarna eftersträvade att undersöka om skillnader i styrka och power i nedre extremiteter kan relateras till prestation hos manliga klättrare. Deltagarna var 10 manliga amatörklättrare som delades in i 2 grupper baserat på idrottsspecifik prestationsnivå. Grupp 1 (n=6) kategoriserades som avancerade klättrare och grupp 2 (n=4) som moderata. Ett isokinetiskt styrketest och två olika hopptester genomfördes av samtliga studiedeltagare. Efter statistisk analys framgick det att det inte fanns några signifikanta skillnader (p= 0,05) mellan grupperna gällande relativ styrka i quadriceps, relativ styrka i hamstrings, H/Q-kvot, hopphöjd vid SJ eller hopphöjd vid CMJ. Gruppen med mer avancerade klättrare presterade signifikant högre vid CMJ kontra SJ (p=0,013). Slutsatserna av denna studie är att klättrare har förhållandevis låga resultat både vid mätning av H/Q-kvot vid 90°/s (grupp 1: 51% vs. grupp 2: 53,9%), 210°/s (59,4% vs. 57,9%) och vid vertikala hopptester (SJ: 32,1cm vs. 31,7cm; CMJ: 35,8 cm vs. 33,9 cm) samt att hoppteknik verkar kunna vara en bidragande faktor för prestation inom klättring.Rock climbing performed on overhanging surfaces is becoming more common and requires more advanced use of the lower body. Since previous research has mostly examined upper body strength there is a need for a muscular profiling of the lower body of climbers, which was the purpose of this study. The study sought to investigate whether differences in strength and power in the lower extremities can be related to climbing performance in male climbers. The participants were 10 male amateur climbers divided into two groups based on athletes-specific performance level. Group 1 (n=6) where categorized as advanced climbers and group 2 (n=4) as moderate. An isokinetic strength test and two different jump tests were performed by all study participants. After statistical analysis, there were no significant differences (p= 0,05) between the groups in relative strength in the quadriceps, relative strength in hamstrings, H/Q-ratio, jump height at SJ or jump height at CMJ. The group with more advanced climbers performed significantly higher at CMJ versus SJ (p = 0.013). The conclusions of this study are that climbers have relatively low results when measuring H/Q-ratio at 90°/s (group 1: 51% vs. group 2: 53,9%), 210°/s (59,4% vs. 57,9%) and height at vertical jump tests (SJ: 32,1cm vs. 31,7cm; CMJ: 35,8 cm vs. 33,9 cm) and that jump technique seems to be a contributing factor in climbing performance.
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Quaine, Franck. "Analyse statique et dynamique de la posture en quadrupedie verticale." Université Joseph Fourier (Grenoble), 1996. http://www.theses.fr/1996GRE10204.
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L'objectif des etudes presentees dans ce memoire etait d'analyser la strategie d'equilibration d'un grimpeur associee au relachement volontaire d'une prise sur une base de quadrupedie verticale. Cette etude a ete realisee dans des positions plus ou moins eloignees du plan vertical des prises. Elle a permis de mettre en evidence que la strategie d'equilibration suite au delestage volontaire d'une prise, dans une position ou le centre de gravite du grimpeur se projetait dans la base de support se resumait a la gestion du poids de corps sur les appuis. Cette etude montre que lorsque le centre de gravite du grimpeur se projette a l'exterieur du polygone de sustentation, le grimpeur est assimile a un pendule inverse en rotation autour des prises de pied. Dans ces conditions, les forces de reactions horizontales appliquees sur les prises sont les forces stabilisatrices de la posture. Leur intensite est proportionnelle au couple destabilisateur engendre par le poids corporel. La perturbation occasionnee par le relachement d'un appui s'accompagne du transfert du poids de corps sur les trois appuis restants et du transfert des forces stabilisatrices sur la ligne d'appui controlaterale a la prise delestee. Cette strategie montre qu'elle permet de creer les conditions dynamiques favorables a l'execution du delestage volontaire, tout en assurant la base posturale. La caracterisation des contraintes mecaniques articulaires a permis de mettre en evidence la gestion particuliere des forces de pesanteur et des forces de stabilisation en quadrupedie verticale. La stabilite est geree de maniere passive au niveau des articulations du membre superieur controlateral, tandis que deux niveaux de gestion de la stabilite apparaissent sur les articulations du membre inferieur controlateral. L'articulation de la cheville controle la stabilite du grimpeur par rapport a la prise de pied, l'articulation de la hanche controle la posture du tronc par rapport au bassin