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1

Lee, Suyeon, and Hee Jung Ha. "A Study on Current State in Stitches and Seams Usage for Building Smart Sewing Systems: Focused on Sewing Specification of Cut and Sewn Knit." Family and Environment Research 58, no. 3 (August 20, 2020): 357–74. http://dx.doi.org/10.6115/fer.2020.026.

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This study suggests the use of standardized sewing terms for the construction of smart sewing systems. This study analyzed the use of stitches (ISO 4915) and seams (ISO 4916) for cut and sewn knit garment which are the basic elements of sewing on an ISO basis. The results of the analysis of sewing specifications of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, the use of stitches and seams were analyzed. As a result, both stitches and seams were used as non-standard terms. Second, among 3,263 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401, 504, 605 were the most frequently used; however, ISO 4915 No. 514 was anticipated the most because the ISO 4915 No. 514 used for joining was not recorded in the sewing specification. Finally, the use of stitch for each seam was analyzed. The most common stitch used for ISO 4916 No. 6.02.07 was ISO 4915 No. 406. In addition, when it was sewing ISO 4916 No. 4.04.01, ISO 4915 No. 504 was used in step 1, and ISO 4915 No. 406, 602, and 605 were used in step 2. It is important to use the international standard sewing terms for the production site based on the results. In addition, the construction of smart sewing systems and the work of international standardization through industryuniversity cooperation are important for securing global competitiveness. Therefore, the use of international standard terminology and practical training should be conducted with a focus on stitching and seams with high frequency of use.
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Monnie, Patience Danquah, Docea Fianu, and Efua Vandyck. "Thread Type and Stitch Density Suitable for Seams in Ghanaian Public Basic School Uniforms." Current Materials Science 14, no. 2 (August 12, 2021): 168–78. http://dx.doi.org/10.2174/2666145414666210428104623.

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Background: The serviceability of a sewn garment is influenced by the quality of its seams, which form the basic structural element. The factors that affect seam quality in garments include, sewing thread type and stitch density. Their right choice helps with the achievement of quality seams in garments. However, the choice of suitable sewing threads and stitch densities for particular fabrics can only be determined through testing. Objective: Problems associated with the poor performance of school uniforms include seam failure. The aim of the study was to determine sewing thread brand and stitch density suitable for seams for a selected fabric (79% polyester and 21% cotton) for Ghanaian public basic school uniforms. Methods: A 2×3 factorial design was employed, which involved two brands of sewing threads labelled A` and B` and three ranges of stitch density, 10, 12, and 14. The total number of specimens prepared from the selected fabric was 81. The parameters investigated included fabric weight, strength, and elongation, seam strength, seam elongation, and efficiency. The data were analysed using the Predictive Analytics Software (SPSS). Means and standard deviations of the fabric’s yarn count, weight, strength, elongation and the linear density of the sewing threads were determined. Analysis of Variance and Independent samples t-test at 0.05 alpha levels were employed in testing the hypotheses. Results: Differences in seam strength, efficiency, and elongation were significant for the two sewing thread brands and the three stitch densities in both warp and weft directions of the fabric sample. The sewing thread brand B′ with stitch density 14 performed best in terms of seam strength, elongation, and efficiency. Conclusion: The sewing thread brand B′ and stitch density 14 are recommended to be used for the construction of uniforms with the selected fabric to achieve quality in uniforms.
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MESEGUL, Cansu, and Gulseren KARABAY. "Usage of Fusible Sewing Threads to Improve the Waterproof Property of Seam." Materials Science 26, no. 4 (August 17, 2020): 498–504. http://dx.doi.org/10.5755/j01.ms.26.4.24147.

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In classical stitching process, needle holes occur during the penetration of the needle through the fabric. If the waterproofness of the sewn product is important, the water leakage from these holes must be prevented. To prevent this negative situation, different techniques such as sealing of seams with waterproof tapes, joining the textile materials by bonding or welding are used. Among these techniques, there is no needle damage in bonding and welding and all the seam area is covered by thermal or chemical bonding. In sewing technology, the water leakage is prevented by covering all the seam area with seam sealing tape. These three methods have different effects on the physical properties of the seams obtained. Instead of covering the whole seam area, covering just the needle damages is the focus of this research. With this aim, fusible sewing threads were used to cover the needle damages to increase the waterproof performance of seam line. The fusible sewing threads have not been used for obtaining waterproof seams before. In this research, the fusible sewing threads were used as lower thread in different combinations. Initial results of waterproofness test show that, melted fusible threads improve the waterproof performance of seams. In other words, the needle damages on sewn fabric can be covered by melted fusible sewing thread. However, unbalanced seam is the negative side of this research because of using different threads as needle and bobbin thread. Additionally, there is no variety of fusible threads to select an appropriate one for this method. The study is hoped to be a sample for the further studies on this method, using different fusible threads, fabrics, seam types and even improving new fusible threads for this waterproofing method.
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4

Sukran, Kara. "Comparison of sewn fabric bending rigidities obtained by heart loop method: effects of different stitch types and seam directions." Industria Textila 71, no. 02 (April 30, 2020): 105–11. http://dx.doi.org/10.35530/it.071.02.1647.

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Sewing quality is an important factor that contributes to the overall quality of an end-product. Sewing quality compro - mises different components such as bending, seam strength, seam slippage, elasticity etc. Among these components, bending has a special importance because of causing changes in appearance, sensorial comfort and drape of a garment. Therefore, in this study, effects of stitch type and seam direction on the bending rigidities of sewn fabrics were evaluated and compared. A polyester woven fabric which is suitable for sportswear was sewn with three basic stitch types (lock stitch, chain stitch and overlock stitch), in 5 different directions (warp, weft, 30°, 45° and 60° angles). As reference, samples without stitches were tested, too. Bending properties of samples were determined via heart loop method. According to the results, sewing increased the fabric bending rigidity. The degree of bending rigidity increment was dependent on the stitch type. Highest bending rigidity values were obtained for overlock stitched samples those were approximately 4 times higher when compared to non-sewn reference samples. Thickness of sewn parts was in accordance with the bending rigidity results. For oriented seams, bias sewing especially for 45˚ oriented samples, showed the most advantageous bending results. This study showed the usability of heart loop method for sewn samples via consistent results for different stitch types and seam directions.
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5

Choudhary, A. K., and Amit Goel. "Effect of Some Fabric and Sewing Conditions on Apparel Seam Characteristics." Journal of Textiles 2013 (June 11, 2013): 1–7. http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2013/157034.

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Many previous studies showed that seam appearance as well as performance depends on the interrelationship of fabrics, threads, and the stitch/seam selection and lastly on the sewing conditions, which include the needle size, needle thread tension, stitch density, and the appropriate operation and maintenance of the sewing machine. Present investigation elucidates the effect of blend composition, sewing thread size, and sewing needle parameters on garment seam characteristics (i.e., seam strength, seam strength efficiency, seam puckering, seam stiffness, and drape coefficient). The seam quality characterization is studied through the L9 orthogonal design methodology. In good quality apparels, compatibility of the seams with the functional requirement is very important for serviceability and life of the apparel. Reversibility as well as repairing of seams in the apparel is very limited in the condition of seam failure. Seam strength efficiency is higher for the uniform fiber matrix in the structure of fabrics. The polyester dominated suiting fabrics give minimum seam stiffness because polyester component has low flexural rigidity. The cotton dominated suiting fabrics have less seam puckering due to increase in fabric stiffness.
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6

Rodionov, V. A., E. V. Blagushina, and M. S. Doriomedov. "Determination of strength properties of sewing seams in technical articles produced by combined sewing threads." Fibre Chemistry 45, no. 3 (September 2013): 175–79. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10692-013-9506-0.

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7

Abd El-Aziz Kotob Saroukh, Safeia. "Effect of Some Sewing Variables on the Properties of Sewing Seams of Some Lining Fabrics." Alexandria Science Exchange Journal 28, no. 1 (January 1, 2007): 17–37. http://dx.doi.org/10.21608/asejaiqjsae.2007.158592.

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8

Rogina-Car, Beti, and Stana Kovačević. "Natural leather car upholstery – characteristics and sewing challenges." Koža & obuća 68, no. 2 (2019): 34–37. http://dx.doi.org/10.34187/ko.68.2.6.

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This paper gives an overview of materials and specifics in production of upholstery for vehicles. Special attention has been paid to natural leather as one of the most luxurious materials for the manufacture of car interior upholstery materials. Its properties, advantages and disadvantages are compared with textile materials. The quality of suitable seams is one of the most challenging tasks in making upholstery. In this paper, special emphasis is placed on cutting and sewing natural leather used for making car interior upholstery. Natural leather is a specific natural material that gives a touch of luxury to car seats and interiors. Durability, high price and lower market offer of leather lead to its restricted use for car upholstery compared to textile materials; however, these reasons in particular make it extremely desirable at the same time. According to previous research, cutting and sewing of leather car upholstery require greater attention also when choosing the appropriate leather, sewing machine, thread, needle and seam type, which will give satisfactory properties of the car upholstery in all segments. The purpose of this paper is to contribute to professional knowledge and specifics related to natural leather, its use for car seats and the proper quality of the sewn seam.
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Brad, Raluca, Lavinia Barac, and Remus Brad. "Defect Detection Techniques for Airbag Production Sewing Stages." Journal of Textiles 2014 (February 25, 2014): 1–7. http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2014/738504.

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Airbags are subjected to strict quality control in order to ensure passengers safety. The quality of fabric and sewing thread influences the final product and therefore, sewing defects must be early and accurately detected, in order to remove the item from production. Airbag seams assembly can take various forms, using linear and circle primitives, with threads of different colors and length densities, creating lockstitch or double threads chainstitch. The paper presents a framework for the automatic detection of defects occurring during the airbag sewing stage. Types of defects as skipped stitch, missed stitch, or superimposed seam for lockstitch and two threads chainstitch are detected and marked. Using image processing methods, the proposed framework follows the seams path and determines if a color pattern of the considered stitches is valid.
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10

Pankevich, Dar’ya K., and Igor A. Bulanchikov. "PERFORMANCE PROPERTIES OF THREAD SEAMS OF KNITTED-BASED MEMBRANE MATERIALS." Technologies & Quality 52, no. 2 (July 2, 2021): 43–48. http://dx.doi.org/10.34216/2587-6147-2021-2-52-43-48.

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The article is devoted to the study of the strength and wear resistance of thread seams of membrane materials on a knitted basis. The characteristics of the composite membrane three-layer material are given and the modes of its stitching and the test method are substantiated. Investigations of material cutting through with a needle were carried out and the geometry of the sewing needle point was chosen. The results of the study of the strength of thread seams made along of the front layer of the material before and after modelling the operational tensile loads along and across the seam are presented. 15000 load-unload cycles were simulated, stretching the sample by 10 % of the seam length. As a result of a full factorial experiment, it was found that the linear density of the threads and the diameter of the needle have the greatest effect on the strength and wear resistance of the thread seams of the composite material. The influence of the sewing frequency is ambiguous for the parameter of the wear resistance of the seam when stretched along and across the line.
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11

Azanova, Albina, Reseda Y. Galimzyanova, and Lyutziya Khisamiyeva. "Concerning the Application Possibility of Ultrasonic Welding of Textile Materials on the Basis of Synthetic Fibres in the Manufacturing Processes of Parachute Systems." Key Engineering Materials 869 (October 2020): 56–60. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/kem.869.56.

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The application possibility of ultrasonic () welding in the technological process of the canopies of braking parachute systems manufacturing for the unmanned aerial vehicles was considered. The subjects of research were parachute fabrics (100 % capron), manufactured by with different surface weight, weave and type of finish. Welding modes were chosen. The obtained welded seams had no defects and met the requirements of technical standard documentation, with the increase of the distance between the welding spots, the welding strength of the welded seam was decreased by 10–40 %. The strength of the seams at the “in shear” test is on the average 2-3 times larger than at the gripping method test. The draft of the nozzle-roll for executing the spotted welded seams was proposed. The calculations suggested that the application of the welded seams instead of sewn seams would allow the reduction of the costs for sewing threads during the manufacturing of the canopy to 50 % and the significant reduction of the labour requirement.
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12

Schmalstieg, Dieter, and Gernot Schaufler. "Sewing Worlds Together With SEAMs: A Mechanism to Construct Complex Virtual Environments." Presence: Teleoperators and Virtual Environments 8, no. 4 (August 1999): 449–61. http://dx.doi.org/10.1162/105474699566332.

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This paper introduces the Spatially Extended Anchoring Mechanism (SEAM) as a 3-D user-interface metaphor to connect virtual worlds and manage scalability in distributed virtual environments. SEAMs provide a visual and navigable connection between worlds to manage both the complexity of rendering and network communication typically occurring in such environments. In the context of augmented reality, SEAMs can be applied as a 3-D window interface. A rendering algorithm is described which performs well on the graphics accelerators of standard personal computers.
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13

Matsunashi, Kuniko, and Kozo Shimazaki. "Influence of Sewing Conditions on the Appearance of Blind Stitch Seams." FIBER 58, no. 10 (2002): 381–86. http://dx.doi.org/10.2115/fiber.58.381.

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14

Firsˇt Rogale, Snjezˇana, Zvonko Dragcˇevic´, and Dubravko Rogale. "Determining reaction abilities of sewing machine operators in joining curved seams." International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 15, no. 3/4 (June 2003): 179–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/09556220310478260.

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15

Frydrych, Iwona, and Agnieszka Greszta. "Analysis of lockstitch seam strength and its efficiency." International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 28, no. 4 (August 1, 2016): 480–91. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-12-2015-0133.

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Purpose – Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to determine the seam strength and efficiency as well as examining, if and how such factors as: a kind of fabric, kind of thread, kind of seam and the stitch density influence the transverse seam strength and the seam efficiency. Design/methodology/approach – For research four types of polyester/wool fabrics having different structural parameters and two types of polyester sewing threads were used. Three types of seam were made. The fabric samples were sewn using lockstitch with three different stitch densities. Obtained in this way seams were tested on the tensile machine. The influence of individual factors on the seam strength and its efficiency was assessed statistically using a multivariate variance analysis (ANOVA). Findings – The findings of this study revealed that the independent variable – stitch density affect significantly of the seam strength as well as its efficiency. Seam strength and seam efficiency values increase with the increase stitch density. Moreover, the variance analysis showed that a kind of fabric also is a statistically significant factor for the seam efficiency and its strength. Furthermore, in the case of seam efficiency it is also important to the stitch direction. However, the study did not show an impact of kind of thread and kind of seam on dependent variables: the seam strength and its efficiency. Research limitations/implications – Due to the fact that this paper focuses on the seams made only on wool/polyester fabrics with two the most popular weaves, involving only two sewing PES threads, the conclusions presented in this paper are valid only to this assortment and cannot be generalized. Originality/value – So far, it has not been taken research on the effect of seams with the different number of sewn layers on the seam strength and efficiency. This issue has been taken in this work.
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16

ESRA ZEYNEP, YILDIZ, PAMUK OKTAY, and BOZ SERKAN. "An investigation on the seam tensile properties of ultrasonically bonded nonwoven fabrics." Industria Textila 68, no. 02 (March 1, 2017): 126–30. http://dx.doi.org/10.35530/it.068.02.1299.

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In this study, the seam tensile properties of the ultrasonically bonded nonwoven fabrics were investigated and the effects of the fabric type, roller type and sewing speed on the seam tensile properties of the samples were studied. It was deduced that fabric type, roller type and sewing speed have statistically significant effect on the seam tensile properties of the nonwoven fabrics. The experimental results indicate that, the tensile strength of the seams made with made with the engraving roller 4 mm wide point and 25 dm/min speed is the highest, and with the engraving roller 9 mm wide point and 45 dm/min is the lowest.
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17

Chen, Daoling, Pengpeng Cheng, and Yonggui Li. "Investigation of interactions between fabric performance, sewing process parameters and seam pucker of shirt fabric." Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 16 (January 2021): 155892502110203. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/15589250211020394.

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Seam pucker is a common problem in sewing. It not only affects the appearance of product, but also affects product performance. The purpose of this study is to quantify the complex dynamic interactions between fabric performance, sewing process parameters and seam pucker. In order to solve the problem of shirt seam pucker, this study selected four kinds of shirt fabrics, three kinds of polyester sewing threads, three kinds of stitch density and four kinds of seam types for experiments. Through unitary regression analysis, the subjective and objective evaluation results are consistent. Further analysis the results of objective experiment revealed that fabric performances, seams type, sewing thread and stitch densities all have impact on seam pucker. Meanwhile also find out the sewing process parameters for the four fabrics when the seam shrinkage’s were smallest, so it’s helpful for the apparel enterprises to improve seam quality. Multiple linear regression analysis of experimental results show that fabric performances has the greatest influence on seam pucker, thickness, weight and warp density of fabric properties significantly affect seam pucker. And as the breaking elongation of sewing thread increases, seam pucker also increases. Stitch densities and seam type has the least affected on seam pucker, they affect the seam pucker by changing the extension of stitch and thickness of fabric at the seam, respectively. Seam type has greater impact on fabrics that are prone to seam pucker, seam type T1 get larger seam shrinkage than T4. Finally, the complex dynamic interactions was quantified and expressed through mathematical models.
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18

Sinner, Anita. "Sewing Seams of Stories: Becoming a teacher during the First World War." History of Education 35, no. 3 (May 2006): 369–404. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00467600600638467.

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19

Skorupińska, Ewa, Krzysztof Wiaderek, and Maciej Sydor. "Influence of technological parameters on the upholstery seams in furniture." Annals of WULS, Forestry and Wood Technology 114 (June 28, 2021): 110–15. http://dx.doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0015.2389.

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Influence of technological parameters of the upholstery seams in furniture. Based on the real problem of weak seams in covers of wooden furniture, a multifaceted analysis of the issue was performed. As a result, it was decided to carry out comparative laboratory strength tests of seams made with the use of various technological parameters. For the production of test samples, we used different yarn threads to find the best and sufficiently strong seams for used fabrics. The test results show that not only the thread and fabric used, but also the sewing technology parameters have a significant influence on the seam strength. Overall, these results indicate that to increase the seam strength, it is necessary to choose thread type B with very high strength and low elongation at break. This solution will minimize the risk of broken threads in case of deviation of material features and technological parameters, which can be variable in the long duration of large-scale production.
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20

Hossain, Alimran, Md Rokonuzzaman, Md Abu Bakar Siddiquee, Md Abdullah Al Mamun, S. M. Farhana Iqbal, and Md Azharul Islam. "Effect of Different Sewing Parameters on Lockstitch Seam Strength for Denim Fabric." Journal of Engineering Advancements 01, no. 04 (December 2020): 139–43. http://dx.doi.org/10.38032/jea.2020.04.005.

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Seam strength plays a very important role in acquiring the desired quality seam which ultimately defines the quality of any clothing. The paper is aimed to study the strength of seam produced from denim fabric, how different sewing parameters like sewing thread type, type of seam, seam direction as well as the density of stitches influence the strength of seam, and it is observed that they have direct effect on lockstitch seam strength of denim fabric with various degree. For research denim fabric with 3/1 weaves structure and three different sewing threads namely 100% cotton spun with 14tex linear density, 100% polyester spun with 24tex and 60tex linear density were used. Seam class used for the research was superimposed seam prepared with two layers, SSa and three layers, SSb. The samples were made by stitching with lockstitch sewing machine both in warp and weft way. Three different stitch densities were used to sew the samples and they were-7, 9 and 11 stitches per inch. The strength of the produced seams was tested on a universal strength tester machine-the titan tensile strength tester. Test was performed according to ASTM D5034 test method. The outcome of the research shows that seam type, seam direction, thread types, and stitch density have direct effect on lockstitch seam strength of denim fabric with various degrees. Higher seam strength was obtained for the SSb type seam produced in warp direction with coarser sewing thread (60tex) and 11 stitches per inch (SPI). The influence of independent variables on the seam strength was assessed statistically using a multivariate variance analysis (ANOVA) with the help of SPSS software and it was found that they effect significantly. Regression analysis was done to develop the regression equation to predict lockstitch seam strength before production process.
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21

Vijay Kirubakar Raj, D., and M. Renuka Devi. "Performance Analysis of the Mechanical Behaviour of Seams With Various Sewing Parameters for Cotton Canopy Fabrics." Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 25 (August 31, 2017): 0. http://dx.doi.org/10.5604/01.3001.0010.2858.

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This study aims to develop a tool to predict the behaviour under a load of textile seams, to enable the selection of materials for specified end uses in the parachute industry. The strength of an assembly is directly dependent on the strengths of the various joints and seams required to make the structure. This study seeks to understand the performance of seams woven into cotton fabrics. A combination of five parameters has been studied here. Two properties, the seam strength and seam efficiency (% ratio of seam strength to fabric strength), are used as performance estimators. Both were found to vary significantly not only with the primary parameters but also with the interactions of primary parameters as well. That is, they change with each of the primary parameters but vary in a different manner when other parameters also change. Multiple regression has been used to construct preliminary predictor equations.
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22

Abdul Ghani, Suzaini, and Hugh Gong. "Seam Quality: Experimental and Modelling Works using the Structural Equation Methodology." Scientific Research Journal 7, no. 1 (June 1, 2010): 13. http://dx.doi.org/10.24191/srj.v7i1.9422.

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Seam quality in terms of appearance and strength were investigated for very light weight fabrics (weight less than 80 g m-1;. Seams were constructed with different sewing parameters, which included types of thread, stitch densities and needle size. Before constructing the seam for appearance and strength evaluation the mechanical properties of all fabrics were determined. The mechanical properties of 48 fabrics were determined using the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-F), the Fabric Assurance Simple Test (FAST) and an lnstron Tensile Tester. Evaluation of seam quality was performed with respect to all the sewing parameters and the seams were ranked accordingly. The same evaluation ranking for seam appearance and strength was used for further analysis using Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) under AMOS. SEM was used to establish the relationship between seam quality with respect to appearance and strength, and fabric mechanical properties. SEM was adopted to perform confirmative analysis to identify the fabrics mechanical properties that influence seam quality. From the experimental work, it was established that seams constructed with I 00 % spun polyester thread with a ticket number of 75 gave the best ranking in terms of seam strength. This thread performed at optimum values when used with 6.5 stitches per centimetre (spcm) with a Metric needle size (Nm) of 90. For seam appearance, I 00 % spun polyester with a ticket number of 120 and Metric needle size of 80 gave the best ranking. SEM established that extensibility and shear were the main fabric mechanical properties that determine seam quality of very light weight fabrics.
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Raj, D. Vijay Kirubakar, and M. Renuka Devi. "Performance analysis of the mechanical behaviour of seams with various sewing parameters for nylon canopy fabrics." International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 29, no. 4 (August 7, 2017): 470–82. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-05-2016-0054.

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Purpose The purpose of this paper is to make available to the parachute industry tools to predict behaviour of certain textile materials. In addition to this, it is desired to reveal and explain the basic requirement criteria for proper textile material selection. The strength of an assembly as a whole is directly dependent on the strengths of the various joints and seams required to assemble the larger structure. Keeping in mind the complex problem of parachute construction, this research seeks to enlighten the industry about the performance of seams in nylon woven canopy fabrics. Five factors have been studied: different types of weave (plain, rip-stop and twill), density (number of stitches per centimetre), different rows of stitches with lapped seams, different types of stitches (lock stitch, chain stitch and zig-zag) and seam direction (warp, weft and bias direction). Two responses have been analysed, the seam breaking force and the seam efficiency (per cent ratio of seam strength to fabric strength). The test results were subjected to an analysis of variance and the seam strength proved to vary significantly not only with the primary parameters, but with the interactions of the primary parameters as well. That is seam strength (and seam efficiency) changes with each primary parameter but it changes in a different manner when other parameters change. Multiple regressions have been used to construct preliminary predictor equations for seam strength and efficiency, and investigations to provide better equations are in progress. Design/methodology/approach ANOVA techniques and statistical regression equations were formed. Findings The work has concluded that twill weave 9 with chain stitch has the maximum seam strength, which makes canopies made with 2/1 twill weave and stitched with lapped seam with four rows of chain stitch optimum for heavy supply droppings with a single use parachute(s). It is evident from the results that twill weave with lock stich has the maximum seam efficiency. This makes the canopies stitched with twill fabric, constructed with lapped seams and four rows of stitches ideal for parachutes to be used multiple times. The brake parachutes on aircrafts and parachutes used by sky divers and air combat soldiers can use parachutes whose canopies can be used many times made out of the above mentioned weave and stitch specification. Originality/value Original work was conducted from the woven fabrics.
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Zelova, Katarina, Viera Glombikova, and Antonin Havelka. "Problems with perfect-looking two-needle decorative seams in the manufacture of leather car seat covers." Textile Research Journal 90, no. 1 (June 21, 2019): 49–62. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517519858765.

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This study objectively evaluates the uneven appearance of the two-needle decorative seams of leather seat covers. The investigation is based on both measurement of the stitch slant angle by image analysis and measurement of the penetration force influenced by different cutting points of the needles. To record the unevenness the new parameter, the difference of the stitch slant between the right- and left-hand sides of the seam was evaluated. Further, the interrelation ship among penetration force differences of the stitch slant and type of needle point was searched for to meet the requirements of car producers for a perfect appearance of decorative seams. The degree of uneven seam was measured within subjective visual evaluation, too. Four natural and two artificial leathers were tested. A combination of two threads and four needle points was applied to the tested leathers. It was confirmed that the uneven appearance was influenced by the type of leather, the point of the sewing needle and by the sewing thread. The selection of the needle point influenced the size of the force required for penetrating the leather. It was determined only in half of the cases that the smaller the force of penetration, the more even the appearance of the decorative seam. In most cases, using the cutting point LR, the left seam looked less slanted than the right one. Conversely, when using the cutting point for straight stitch appearance, that is, DH, the left stitch looked straighter than the right one. The causal link between the new parameter Δβ and the suitability of the applied needles and threads for leather materials was found.
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Mariem, Brahem, Messaoudi Wissal, Khedher Faouzi, Jaouachi Boubaker, and Dominique Adolphe. "A Study of the Consumption of Sewing Threads for Women's Underwear: Bras and Panties." Autex Research Journal 20, no. 3 (September 18, 2020): 299–311. http://dx.doi.org/10.2478/aut-2019-0032.

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AbstractThe article evaluates the amount of the consumed sewing thread for women's underwear (underwear bras and panties). Based on the obtained findings, it was concluded that sewing thread amount depends enormously on the studied influential parameters. The present paper reports a contribution that allows industries and researchers to decrease the consumed amounts of sewing thread in case of women's underwear and panties The study takes into account the different stitch structures and fabric characteristics that are usually used. The effects of influential input parameters, such as fabric thickness, number of assembled layers, stitch density, and tension of the thread, are investigated. Useful models have been found and can be used by industries to accuracy predict the thread consumption for women's underwear and panties to launch the needed thread commands. The developed models use multiregressive method. In this study, the fabrics that have been considered are knitted fabrics because they are those used in women's underwear. We found that women's underwear bras consume more sewing threads than panties. Using linear regression method, good relationships (coefficients of correlation close to 1) between consumption behaviors and the investigated parameters such as fabric thickness, number of assembled layers, stitch number per centimeter, sizes and tension of threads, were found. Although, the increase of threads tension to sew female underwear decreases the consumed amount of threads, the increase of other studied parameters widely encourages the consumption values, especially for seams based on chain-stitch types.
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Abdul Ghani, Suzaini, and Hugh Gong. "Seam Quality: Experimental and Modelling Works using the Structural Equation Methodology." Scientific Research Journal 7, no. 1 (June 30, 2010): 13. http://dx.doi.org/10.24191/srj.v7i1.5008.

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Seam quality in terms ofappearance and strength were investigatedfor very light weight fabrics (weight less than 80 g m"). Seams were constructed with different sewing parameters, which included types ofthread, stitch densities and needle size. Before constructing the seam for appearance and strength evaluation the mechanical properties of all fabrics were determined. The mechanical properties of 48 fabrics were determined using the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-F), the Fabric Assurance Simple Test (FAST) and an Instron Tensile Tester. Evaluation ofseam quality was performed with respect to all the sewingparameters and the seams were ranked accordingly. The same evaluation ranking for seam appearance and strength was used for further analysis using Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) under AMOS. SEM was used to establish the relationship between seam quality with respect to appearance andstrength, andfabric mechanical properties. SEM was adopted to perform confirmative analysis to identify the fabrics mechanical properties that influence seam quality. From the experimental work, it was established that seams constructed with 100 % spun polyester thread with a ticket number of75gave the best ranking in terms ofseam strength. This threadperformedat optimum values when used with 6.5 stitches per centimetre (spcm) with a Metric needle size (Nm) of 90. For seam appearance, 100 % spun polyester with a ticket number of120 and Metric needle size of80 gave the best ranking. SEM established that extensibility and shear were the main fabric mechanical properties that determine seam quality ofvery light weight fabrics.
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Sarkar, Joy, Md Abdullah Al Faruque, and Moni Sankar Mondal. "Modeling the seam strength of denim garments by using fuzzy expert system." Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 16 (January 2021): 155892502198897. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/1558925021988976.

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The main purpose of this study is to predict and develop a model for forecasting the Seam Strength (SS) of denim garments with respect to the thread linear density (tex) and Stitches Per Inch (SPI) by using a Fuzzy Logic Expert System (FLES). The seam strength is an important factor for the serviceability of any garments. As seams bound the fabric pieces together in a garment, the seams must have sufficient strength to execute this property even in the unexpected severe conditions where the garments are subjected to loads or any additional internal or external forces. Sewing thread linear density and number of stitches in a unit length of the seam are the two of the most important factors that affect the seam strength of any garments. But the relationship among these two specific variables and the seam strength is complex and non-linear. As a result, a fuzzy logic based model has been developed to demonstrate the relationship among these parameters and the developed model has been validated by the experimental trial. The coefficient of determination ( R2) was found to be 0.98. The mean relative error also lies withing acceptable limit. The results have suggested a very good performance of the model in the case of the prediction of the seam strength of the denim garments.
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Kavati, Phebe, Chandrasekaran Bangaru, and Asit Baran Mandal. "Sewability of Sheep Nappa Garment Leather." Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 18, no. 2 (May 1, 2014): 49–55. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/rjta-18-02-2014-b007.

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Quality is an important aspect of the apparel manufacturing process. Although the basic quality of apparels mainly depends on the fabric properties, the type of thread used and selection of seams play an important role in determining the final quality of the apparel. Seam strength testing is basically an examination of the amount of pressure required to tear the seam of a garment. It is an essential parameter that determines the performance of a garment. For the perfect fit and look of a garment, seam strength has to be proper. It is therefore worthwhile to select the correct sewing thread size for good seam quality. The present work reports on an experimental investigation about the effect of different threads on the characteristics of leather. The other parameters, which are investigated, include seam strength, puckering and slippage.
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Deepak, B. B. V. L., Raju M. V. A. Bahubalendruni, Ch A. Rao, and Jalumuru Nalini. "Computer aided weld seam tracking approach." Journal of Engineering, Design and Technology 15, no. 1 (February 6, 2017): 31–43. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/jedt-10-2015-0069.

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Purpose This paper aims to automate the welding operation that motion control, sensor integration and coordination with the welding power source. Therefore, there is a need for sophisticated technologies to control precisely the process in terms of positioning the welding torch, and controlling the welding parameters through the use of correct devices which are aided by appropriate control tools and techniques. Design/methodology/approach A new seam tracking methodology, named sewing technique, has been introduced for the welded joints available in computer-aided design (CAD) environment. This methodology gives the seam path by drawing a line through the adjacent centroids of curve fitted in the weld joint volume. Obtained geometric path and kinematic constraints are given as input to the modeled robot for performing welding operation followed by desired trajectory. Findings In this investigation, a novel and efficient weld seam technique has been developed to produce uniform welded joints. The key feature of this approach is that the initial and end positions of the weld seams can be obtained easily. Because of this, the robot can be controlled flexibly during welding operation. Originality/value This investigation deals with the development of an automated seam tracking methodology for the welded joints available in CAD environment. Validation of the developed methodology has been done through simulation results while performing welding operations for different weld profiles.
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Абрамова, О. В., О. В. Єжова, Л. О. Чистякова, and І. О. Кудревич. "ДИЗАЙН-ПРОЄКТУВАННЯ АВТОРСЬКОЇ КОЛЕКЦІЇ ОДЯГУ З ВИКОРИСТАННЯМ ТЕХНІКИ ПЕЧВОРК." Art and Design, no. 1 (June 3, 2020): 28–40. http://dx.doi.org/10.30857/2617-0272.2020.1.2.

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Research of design-design features of the creative collection of clothing using the technology of patchwork. Methodology. An integrated approach, historical analysis of the object of research, systematization of parochial species, method of combinatorial formation have been applied. Results. The design of the clothing collection was analyzed using the paintwork technique. The historical development of the technology of patchwork is considered. There has been an improvement in the type classification of the patchwork, which includes the types, seams and blocks of the art. The technology of execution of the units of the peach «flying geese» and «cut» is described. On the basis of the theoretical study carried out, an up-to-date collection of women 's and men 's clothing has been developed with the use of modern techniques of peachyard, as technologies of repeated application and processing of sewing wastes and textiles. The views, seams and blocks of the patchwork are systematized. The specifics and possible variants of modern paintings in the technology of patchwork and their application in the design-design of the collection of clothing models have been revealed. Practical significance. The possibilities of using modern varieties of patchwork in the creation of a collection of clothing have been demonstrated. Proposed is a technological method of making pachopper blocks according to templates using cutting with a disk knife and crease using a water-soluble stabilizer.
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Pasayev, Nazim, Mahmut Korkmaz, and Dilek Baspinar. "Investigation of the techniques decreasing the seam slippage in chenille fabrics (Part II)." Textile Research Journal 81, no. 20 (December 2011): 2075–81. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517511413321.

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The seam slippage in woven fabric products is an adverse event in sewn products. The purpose of this study is to examine the seam slippage in chenille fabric products which are widely used as upholstery fabrics and to research ways to decrease seam slippage. In this study, the theoretical analysis of the seam slippage mechanism has been performed by the literature analysis and the results of experimental studies which were obtained in Part I. In this analysis, seam slippage is examined as the sum of two factors: the deformation of sewing stitch and the slippage of the fabric yarns by sewing stitch chains. According to the theoretical analysis of the processes, it can be inferred that it is possible to decrease seam slippage by driving the energy of applied mechanical forces to other tasks. Based on the results, the ways to decrease seam slippage, which occur in sewn products, have been determined. Two of them are related to the selection of sewing yarn and sewing parameters based on previous researches. The dependence of the other two ways on the fabric structure supported with adhesive interlining and the selection of sewing type were examined. The results of the experimental studies supported the results of the theoretical analysis.
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Lu, Liu, Zhuang Qinliang, Li Yawei, Zhou Qingqing, and Liu Gaohui. "Fabrication of capsule-like inflatable woven fabric used for tunnel plugs." Journal of Industrial Textiles 48, no. 5 (December 27, 2017): 941–53. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/1528083717750884.

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Considering safe and continuous operation of the subway tunnel, apart from the conventional drainage system, the entrances or exits of tunnels generally are designed to install special devices to block the influx of either floods due to sudden storms or harmful gases caused by terrorist attack. Traditional devices include metal plates or sandbags. In recent years, researchers have invented textile-based capsule-like inflatable device to replace the traditional devices because the new one can be flexibly located in the tunnel, capable of blocking fluids completely, light-weight and low cost. However, the fabrication of capsule-like textile structure has been seldom discussed in the literature. The capsule-like textile structure is either created by fabric weaving followed by sewing for the capsule form, which may result in unevenness of stress distribution due to existence of seams in the structure, or produced by expensive and specially designed weaving equipment. This paper is to explore two different fabrications of capsule-like textile structure for the purpose that the device is evenly structured and can be produced in one step with conventional weaving loom. The techniques of fabrication with trapezoid-formed reed as well as the application of double-layered structure have been investigated. The contour of spherical crown of capsule-like structure is well in line with calculated values.
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S, Jyothirmai, and Amsamani S. "Influence of Fabric Type on Seam Performance – A Review." International Journal of Innovative Technology and Exploring Engineering 10, no. 5 (March 30, 2021): 27–29. http://dx.doi.org/10.35940/ijitee.e8618.0210421.

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The present-day consumer is looking for durability, and comfort in apparel. Sewing is the most used technique to convert two-dimensional fabric into 3-dimensional apparel. Seam performance is an important factor to achieve the durability and comfort of the apparel. Seam efficiency depends not only on sewing parameters but also on fabric type. Ideal combinations of both are important to achieve perfect seam performance and efficiency. How different fabrics perform to specific sewing parameters were reviewed.
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Park, Chang Kyu, and Tae Jin Kang. "Objective Rating of Seam Pucker Using Neural Networks." Textile Research Journal 67, no. 7 (July 1997): 494–502. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/004051759706700704.

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An objective method of evaluating seam pucker in woven fabrics during garment manufacturing is studied using artificial neural networks. An automatic sewing machine and new measurement system with a laser sensor are presented. For objective evaluation of seam pucker using aatcc standards, two artificial neural networks are constructed from pattern recognition and learning. An error backpropagation model is adopted for the neural networks. The puckered shape of a sewn fabric is converted into the numerical data on three-dimensional coordinates by the laser scanning system. Measurement data in a parallel direction with the seam line are transformed into power spectra on the frequency domain using fast Fourier transformation. The power spectra then generate the specified patterns for neural networks. Finally, the neural networks evaluate seam pucker the same way as the aatcc rating of well trained human experts.
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Kim, Minkyung, In Hwan Sul, and Sungmin Kim. "Development of a Sewing Machine Controller for Seam Pucker Reduction using Online Measurement Feedback System." Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 12, no. 2 (June 2017): 155892501701200. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/155892501701200209.

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An automated sewing machine controller and a three-dimensional measurement system have been developed to find the optimum sewing condition that minimizes seam pucker. It is already known that there are various factors affecting the seam pucker. However, the selection of sewing conditions for reducing seam pucker has relied on the experience of skilled workers. In this study, thread tension, presser foot pressure, and stitch length were chosen as the parameters. Parameter settings were controlled by a computer, which enabled the automatic generation of samples with various combinations of sewing conditions. The seam pucker grade was determined from the scanned three-dimensional sample using a fractal dimension calculation. The optimum sewing conditions for a given sample can be determined from this result. The efficiency of the system was verified by comparing the newly developed method with the existing subjective evaluation method.
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Midha, Vinay Kumar, A. Mukhopadhyay, and Ramanpreet Kaur. "An Approach to Seam Strength Prediction Using Residual Thread Strength." Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 15, no. 3 (August 1, 2011): 75–85. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/rjta-15-03-2011-b009.

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Owing to a high amount of stress, seam failure in workwear fabrics makes the fabric unsuitable although the fabric strength is high. It is therefore important to predict the seam strength to ascertain the performance of the garments during use and determine the required thread strength and stitch density to match the required seam strength. In all of the earlier predictive equations, seam strength is predicted from thread strength and stitch density along with some multiplicative factors. During the sewing process, a substantial loss in needle thread strength occurs; therefore, the thread becomes weaker than expected after incorporation into the seam. In this paper, the effects of various machine and process parameters are studied on thread strength loss and seam strength. The seam strength is predicted from the loop strength after considering the loss in thread strength. It is observed that higher seam strengths are observed when stronger threads are used for sewing. Loss in thread strength has a significant influence on the seam strength. Seam strength can be predicted using stitch density and thread loop strength, by considering the loss in thread strength during the sewing process. A closer match between predicted and experimental seam strength is possible.
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Pan, Ruru, Weidong Gao, Wei Li, and Bugao Xu. "Image analysis for seam-puckering evaluation." Textile Research Journal 87, no. 20 (October 14, 2016): 2513–23. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517516673330.

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Seam puckering is often considered an undesirable wrinkling appearance along a seamline, and is a problem that concerns fabric, sewing machine and sewing thread manufacturers. Until now, the standardized evaluation method for seam-puckering grading is still a visual-based, subjective method. This research project was aimed at developing a computer-vision system for automatic seam-puckering evaluation to improve the consistency and efficiency of grading. Fabric seam images were captured by a customized image acquisition system, and the seam images and the optimal image parameters, such as length and width, were determined according to the results of human inspection. The seamline was located with edge detection and Hough transform techniques. After rotating and cropping the image, the projection profile was then obtained and smoothed with the locally scatter-plot smoothing (LOESS) algorithm. Five characteristic features were extracted from the smoothed profile. Finally, an artificial neural network classifier was created to realize the automatic assessment of the seam-puckering grade. The experimental results proved that the proposed system can achieve accurate seam-puckering grades, and has the potential to replace the current manual evaluation.
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38

Datta, Mallika, Devarun Nath, Asif Javed, and Nabab Hossain. "Seam efficiency of woven linen shirting fabric: process parameter optimisation." Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 21, no. 4 (December 4, 2017): 293–306. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/rjta-08-2017-0039.

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Purpose The focus of this research is to identify the optimum commercial grade sewing thread and stitch density to be used with woven linen shirting fabric used in making men’s formal shirt. Maximum seam efficiency and interaction between the process parameters were assessed. Design/methodology/approach The classical method of optimisation involves varying one variable at a time and keeping the others constant. This is often useful, but it does not explain the effect of interaction between the variables under consideration. In this study, the response surface methodology was used for securing a more accurate optimisation of seam quality (seam efficiency) of woven linen shirting fabric. The response surface method is an empirical statistical technique used for multiple regression analysis of quantitative data obtained from statistically designed experiments by solving the multivariate equations simultaneously. Through this system, the input level of each process parameter, i.e. variable and the level of the selected response (seam efficiency), can be quantified. The central composite, Box–Behnken, is the common design used here. Findings The maximum seam efficiency is 79.62 per cent and 83.13 per cent in warp and weft direction, respectively, with optimum areal density (G) of 110 g/m2 of woven linen shirting fabric. The most suitable stitch density and ticket number of commercial grade sewing thread for woven linen shirting fabric are 13-13.5 and 40, respectively. Practical implications This study could help apparel manufacturers to evaluate seam quality, i.e. seam efficiency of woven linen fabric for men’s shirting, more effectively from the proposed regression model. The optimisation of the commercial grade sewing thread size and stitch density used in this study for woven linen shirting fabric within the range of 110-150 g/m2 will facilitate apparel engineers in production planning and quality control. Originality/value There is dearth of research on seam quality for woven linen shirting fabric using commercial grade sewing thread and engineering of prediction regression model for the estimation of seam efficiency by using process parameters, namely, fabric G, thread size and thread density and their interaction.
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Chen, Daoling, and Pengpeng Cheng. "Investigation of factors affecting the seam slippage of garments." Textile Research Journal 89, no. 21-22 (March 18, 2019): 4756–65. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517519838068.

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Seam slippage often occurs with some garments during the process of wearing or washing, which not only affects the appearance of the garment but also influences garment quality. The purpose of this study is to find out the factors that affect the seam slippage of garments. In order to make the test results closer to those of the garment itself, this study first proposed to make the fabric into a Japanese woman's prototype sample, in order to simulate the garments produced by a garment enterprise. Then, according to standards GB/T 13772.2-2008/ISO 13936-2: 2004 and GB/T 21294-2014, samples were made and seam slippage at the armhole and side seam was tested. Experimental results reveal that the factors that cause the seam slippage of garments are the fabric, seam type and sewing thread. According to the regression analysis, the seam type has a significant effect on the seam slippage of the armhole and side seam, with Pearson correlation coefficients of −0.715 and −0.650, respectively. Thickness, weight, weft density and weave type of the fabric are also important in terms of seam slippage. The weight of the fabric is more significant than other factors; the significant values at the armhole and side seam are 0.009 and 0.002, respectively. In the linear equation, it is shown that weft breaking strength of the fabric only impacts the seam slippage at the side seam. Sewing thread is another important factor for the seam slippage of garments, and its influence on the armhole is obvious; the larger the sewing thread linear density of polyester material is, the smaller the seam slippage is.
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40

Mori, Miyuki, Masako Niwa, and Fumiko Kashimoto. "Effects of Sewing Condition on Seam Stiffness and Softness." Sen'i Gakkaishi 53, no. 2 (1997): 41–52. http://dx.doi.org/10.2115/fiber.53.41.

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41

Dorrity, J. L. "New developments for seam quality monitoring in sewing applications." IEEE Transactions on Industry Applications 31, no. 6 (1995): 1371–75. http://dx.doi.org/10.1109/28.475728.

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42

Ghani, Suzaini A., and Yahya Mohamad Faizul. "Seam Puckering: Analysis and Modeling with Structural Equation Modeling." Advanced Materials Research 812 (September 2013): 157–62. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.812.157.

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Research on parameters influencing seam pucker has been quite intensive in the past decade. The difficulties associated with accurate predictions of the interaction between sewing parameters and fabrics properties. Traditional approach of matching variety of sewing parameters with unlimited fabric properties through personal experience has been a challenge in the apparel industry which increased the cost of production due to reprocess or rejection. Hence, in the present study, an alternative mathematical modeling known as Structural Equation Modeling (SEM) was proposed to predict the seam puckering grading together with the usage of high end instrumentation for fabric known as Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-F). The KES-F determined 16 parameters related to handle properties of a fabric and SEM produced prediction equation based on a few selected important parameters. The results show that equation by SEM can be used to predict the level of seam puckering of different categories of fabric weights. Good comparisons with the experimental and previous studies demonstrate the ability of the model to be used as a predictive tool for textile materials particularly for seam puckering.
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43

Germanova‐Krasteva, Diana, and Hristo Petrov. "Investigation on the seam's quality by sewing of light fabrics." International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 20, no. 1 (January 25, 2008): 57–64. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/09556220810843539.

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44

Šajatović, Blaženka Brlobašić, Bajro Bolić, and Slavenka Petrak. "Impact of Vertical and Horizontal Forces on the Seam in the Technological Process of Sewing Knit Fabrics." Autex Research Journal 18, no. 4 (December 1, 2018): 330–36. http://dx.doi.org/10.1515/aut-2018-0003.

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Abstract The aim of this study was to determine the increase in vertical and horizontal forces of the presser foot on the seam during the technological process of sewing knit fabrics. The research was performed on three types of knit fabrics: double jersey (rib one plus one), interlock knit fabric, and bleached interlock knit fabric. In order to meet the criterion of seam quality, it is necessary to adjust the above-mentioned parameters optimally. Depending on the type of the knit fabric, the values of the investigated forces change, and by increasing the number of layers and the sewing speed, the force values increase.
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45

Fan, J., and W. Leeuwner. "The Performance of Sewing Threads with Respect to Seam Appearance." Journal of the Textile Institute 89, no. 1 (January 1998): 142–54. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405009808658605.

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46

Carvalho, M. A., and F. B. N. Ferreira. "On-Line Seam Qualification and Control in a Sewing Machine." IFAC Proceedings Volumes 34, no. 10 (August 2001): 103–7. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s1474-6670(17)34179-4.

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47

Dobilaite, Vaida, and Milda Juciene. "The influence of mechanical properties of sewing threads on seam pucker." International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 18, no. 5 (September 2006): 335–45. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/09556220610685276.

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48

Seetharam, G., and L. Nagarajan. "Evaluation of Sewing Performance of Plain Twill and Satin Fabrics Based On Seam Slippage Seam Strength and Seam Efficiency." IOSR Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering 1, no. 3 (2014): 09–21. http://dx.doi.org/10.9790/019x-0130921.

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49

Yassen, Hazem Abdelmoneim. "Study of the Relationship between Sewing and Fabric Parameters and Seam Strength." مجلة التصميم الدولية 7, no. 2 (April 2017): 125–29. http://dx.doi.org/10.12816/0046559.

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Juciėnė, Milda, and Vaida Dobilaitė. "Seam pucker indicators and their dependence upon the parameters of a sewing machine." International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 20, no. 4 (June 13, 2008): 231–39. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/09556220810878856.

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