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Journal articles on the topic 'Sediment transport Shorelines Beach erosion'

Author: Grafiati

Published: 4 June 2021

Last updated: 1 February 2022

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1

Tsujimoto, Gozo, Masahiro Tamai, Yasuhide Takano, and Ryuta Yamaguchi. "SEDIMENT DYNAMICS BEHAVIOR AND BEACH PROFILE TYPES BASED ON SEDIMENT PROPERTIES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 76. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.papers.76.

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Sand samples along the shorelines and in the rivers of Tottori Prefecture were assayed for chemical elements using energy dispersive X-ray spectrometer. Samples contained more than 60 wt. % Si, Al, Ca, Fe, Na and Mg less than 10 wt. %. It was found by EOF analysis that Si, Al, Ca and Fe were the significant chemical elements. The spatial variations of first mode of Si are related to sediment dynamic behavior. The transport regime is net accretion when the first mode value of Si is increasing, and net erosion when being decreasing.

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2

Do, Kideok, Nobuhisa Kobayashi, and Kyung-Duck Suh. "EROSION AND ACCRETION ON CURVED BEACH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 11. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.sediment.11.

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The performance of a large nourishment project on Bethany Beach, Delaware is evaluated using available beach profile, wave and tide data during September 2007 to September 2010. The volume of the placed sand with the median diameter of 0.31 mm was about 500 m3/m along the curved shoreline of 1.8 km length. The nourished beach was attacked by two severe storms in May 2008 and November 2009. The eroded sand volume above the mean sea level (MSL) was about 70 m3/m for each of the two storms and emergency repairs were necessary. The numerical cross-shore model with multiple cross-shore lines is use

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3

Yamada, Koji, Takaaki Uda, Yoshio Suwa, Toshiro San-nami, Kou Furuike, and Toshinori Ishikawa. "MECHANISM OF OFFSHORE SAND DISCHARGE INTO SUBMARINE CANYON TRIGGERED BY CONSTRUCTING DETACHED BREAKWATER CLOSE TO SHORELINE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (2011): 18. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.18.

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Several submarine canyons have developed offshore of the Aramata region of the Shimoni-ikawa coast in Toyama Bay, which is one of the three deep bays in Japan. The Kurobe River with a steep bed slope flows into the sea immediately north of this region, and a large amount of sediment has been supplied to this area, which has been transported by southward longshore sand transport. However, beach erosion has occurred owing to the decrease in sediment supply from the Kurobe River. Furthermore, since the construction of detached breakwaters as a measure against beach erosion

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4

Kabiling, Michael B., Michael E. Trudnak, and Richard Bouchard. "EVALUATION OF SHORELINE STABILIZATION USING A HYBRID SHORELINE MORPHOLOGY MODEL." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 50. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.sediment.50.

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The Fort Pierce Shore Protection Project, located in St. Lucie County, Florida, nourishes a 2.09-km Atlantic Ocean shoreline south of Fort Pierce Inlet on Floridaâ€™s east coast. After each beach nourishment, historical measurements indicate the beach fill erodes nonuniformly, with a hotspot along the northernmost 0.7 km requiring nourishment after about two years of normal wave regimes. However, storms can quickly erode the beach fill and require nourishment earlier than the normal two-year interval. Longshore transport carries most of the eroded fill to the south, creating a strong feeder-be

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5

Oh, Jung-Eun, Yeon S. Chang, Weon Mu Jeong, Ki Hyun Kim, and Kyong Ho Ryu. "Estimation of Longshore Sediment Transport Using Video Monitoring Shoreline Data." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 8, no. 8 (2020): 572. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse8080572.

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Video monitoring systems (VMS) have been used for beach status observation but are not effective for examining detailed beach processes as they only measure changes to the shoreline and backshore. Here, we extracted longshore sediment transport (LST) from VMS in order to investigate long- and short-term littoral processes on a pocket beach. LST estimated by applying one-line theory, wave power, and the oblique angle of incident waves were used to understand shoreline changes caused by severe winter storms. The estimated LST showed good agreement with the shoreline changes because the sediments

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6

Frey, Ashley, James Rosati, III, Kenneth J. Connell, Hans Hanson, and Magnus Larson. "MODELING ALTERNATIVES FOR EROSION CONTROL AT MATAGORDA COUNTY,TEXAS, WITH GENCADE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 97. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.sediment.97.

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Matagorda Peninsula and Sargent Beach, Texas, USA, have experienced some of the highest rates of erosion along the Texas coast. In order to increase protection from tropical events and slow beach habitat erosion, several structural alternatives were studied. These alternatives were modeled with GenCade, a newly developed 1D shoreline change and sand transport model. GenCade was calibrated and validated over the 60 miles of shoreline in Matagorda County. Then separate GenCade grids and simulations were conducted for the structural alternatives at Matagorda Peninsula and Sargent Beach. At Matago

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7

Johnson, Bradley, and Jesse McNinch. "LONG-TERM MORPHOLOGICAL EVOLUTION MODEL." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 64. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.sediment.64.

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Nearshore morphology models predicting storm-scale erosion have been in use for the past several decades. These empirical tools typically focus on a single time-scale, which limits the utilization. For example, models developed to predict cross-shore storm erosion are poorly suited for longer-term simulations that include the beach recovery between events and gradients in longshore transport. Herein, the one-dimensional model CSHORE is extended to include shoreline change associated with along- shore variation in transport. A comparison of model predictions with long-term shoreline data from S

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8

Chang, Jin, Jeong, Kim, and Do. "Video Monitoring of Shoreline Positions in Hujeong Beach, Korea." Applied Sciences 9, no. 23 (2019): 4984. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/app9234984.

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Shoreline processes observed by a video monitoring system were investigated under different wave conditions. A 30 m-high tower equipped with video cameras was constructed in Hujeong Beach, South Korea, where coastal erosion was suspected to occur. Two-year shoreline data since December 2016 showed that beach area, Ab, has decreased, but periods of rapid increase in Ab were also observed. Shoreline change was closely related to the wave propagation directions and bottom topography. Ab increased when waves approached the shore obliquely, whereas it decreased when they approached in a normal dire

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9

Lazarus, E. D., D. E. McNamara, M. D. Smith, S. Gopalakrishnan, and A. B. Murray. "Emergent behavior in a coupled economic and coastline model for beach nourishment." Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 18, no. 6 (2011): 989–99. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/npg-18-989-2011.

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Abstract. Developed coastal areas often exhibit a strong systemic coupling between shoreline dynamics and economic dynamics. "Beach nourishment", a common erosion-control practice, involves mechanically depositing sediment from outside the local littoral system onto an actively eroding shoreline to alter shoreline morphology. Natural sediment-transport processes quickly rework the newly engineered beach, causing further changes to the shoreline that in turn affect subsequent beach-nourishment decisions. To the limited extent that this landscape/economic coupling has been considered, evidence s

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10

Jiang, Angela Wenping, Michael Hughes, Peter Cowell, Angus Gordon, Juan Carlos Savioli, and Roshanka Ranasinghe. "A HYBRID MODEL OF SWASH-ZONE LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT ON REFLECTIVE BEACHES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (2011): 29. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.29.

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The hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone is currently outside the domain of coastal-area models, which is a significant limitation in obtaining littoral sediment-transport estimates, especially on steep reflective beaches where the waves practically break on the beachface. In this study, an existing process-based coastal model (MIKE 21) is combined with a theoretical derivation of swash processes, resulting in an innovative hybrid modelling approach that is capable of estimating longshore sediment transport in the swash zone. The method relies upon estimation of swash hydrody

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11

Huang, Yu-Qi, Jing-Hua Lin, Ray-Yeng Yang, Yang-Yih Chen, and Jia-Lin Julie Chen. "BEACH RESPONSE TO EXPOSED RIVERINE SEDIMENT AND BEACH NOURISHMENT." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 92. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.sediment.92.

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Studying the process of riverine sediment at mouths and continental shelves is a critical subject for many engineering applications, such as dredging, navigation, dispersal and remobilization of contaminants. Sediment deposits also determine seabed properties, coastal geomorphology, and the health of coastal habitat/ecology. During extreme conditions, episodic river discharge triggered by large rainfall due to tropical cyclones may contribute significant amount of riverine sediment into the ocean. In the past decade, evidence of severe seabed erosion (up to 1m/year) along the sandy coast of Yu

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TOLDO JR, ELÍRIO, LUIZ ALMEIDA, LUCIANO ABSALONSEN, and NELSON GRUBER. "O Controle da Deriva Litorânea no Desenvolvimento do Campo de Dunas e da Antepraia no Litoral Médio do Rio Grande do Sul." Pesquisas em Geociências 33, no. 2 (2006): 35. http://dx.doi.org/10.22456/1807-9806.19511.

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Zones of erosion and accretion were delimited by comparing a DGPS shoreline mapping in 1997 and the beach line reproduced from the army chart collection of 1975. The results show extensive shore retreat along of Rio Grande do Sul central coast, while accretion was observed in Mostardas and Dunas Altas beach. Mathematical estimative of the regional longshore transport potential along the Rio Grande do Sul coast, a 630-km long holocenic fine sand barrier, resulted in a large net northward annual sand volume. Additionally, the estimated potential of sediment transport based on the CERC formula pr

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13

WANG, PING. "BEACH PROCESSES AND SHORE PROTECTION ALONG THE NORTHERN COLOMBIA COAST." William Morris Davis – Revista de Geomorfologia 1, no. 2 (2020): 60–85. http://dx.doi.org/10.48025/issn2675-6900.v1n2.p60-85.2020.

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The shoreline of northern Colombia is located in the tropical zone along the south coast of Caribbean Sea. Its coastal processes are strongly influenced by the northeast trade wind, which results in the dominating northeasterly approaching wave occurring over 95% of the time. This drives a persistent southwestward longshore sand transport. The state of the beach along the generally northeast-southwest trending northern Colombia coast is strongly influenced by this constant unidirectional longshore sediment transport. At locations where this westward longshore sand transport is interrupted, nat

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14

Shim, Kyu-Tae, Kyu-Han Kim, and Jun-Ho Park. "The Effectiveness of Adaptive Beach Protection Methods under Wind Application." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7, no. 11 (2019): 385. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse7110385.

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A physical model test was carried out to evaluate a measure of reducing sediment transport in a condition of erosive wave incidence. The erosion trend was analyzed in a beach profile consisting of 0.1 mm sand, and a scenario in which 1 mm and 5 mm materials were applied to the erosion section was conducted. The effects of beach nourishment profiles with different sand diameters were verified by comparing the results when the submerged breakwater was installed. In addition, because high waves are usually accompanied with strong wind, to determine the wind effect, morphological change was examin

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15

Hanson, Hans, Magnus Larson, and Nicholas C. Kraus. "MODELING LONG-TERM BEACH CHANGE UNDER INTERACTING LONGSHORE AND CROSS-SHORE PROCESSES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (2011): 62. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.62.

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This paper presents mathematical formulations and a new numerical model GenCade that simulates beach and dune change in response to cross-shore processes of dune growth by wind and dune erosion by storms, and by gradients in longshore sand transport that will also alter shoreline position. The berm plays a central role since the potential for sand to be transported to the dune by wind depends on berm width, and sand lost in erosion of the dune during storms will widen the berm. Morphologic equilibrium considerations are introduced to improve reliability of predictions and stability of the non-

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16

Porter, Aaron, Vladimir Shepsis, George Kaminsky, and David Michalsen. "NORTH JETTY COASTLINE EVOLUTION AND SHORELINE ENGINEERING, GRAYS HARBOR, WASHINGTON." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 84. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.sediment.84.

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This study was initiated by the Port of Grays Harbor and the City of Ocean Shores, WA to address ongoing shoreline erosion processes, and sedimentation at the Grays Harbor Federal Navigation Channel. The North Jetty at the entrance to Grays Harbor Estuary, WA was constructed at the beginning of last century (1907) and resulted in major regional changes to the coastline. During the first 40 years post-construction of the jetty, approximately ten miles of sandy beach shoreline, two miles wide north of the jetty, was created by natural sediment transport processes. The accreted land was the base

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17

Liu, Xin, Yong Jun Huang, and Fu Wan Gan. "Law of the Surface Sediment Transport and Maintenance Methods of Beihai Silver Beach." Advanced Materials Research 1092-1093 (March 2015): 1247–53. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.1092-1093.1247.

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Due to the disorder development of Beihai Silver Beach and the effects of the climate,there has been a serious phenomenon of beach erosion at Beihai Silver Beach,so to put forward effective and feasible maintenance methods of Silver Beach has the great significance.Through the sediment numerical simulation of the waters near the Silver Beach and analysis of the results and to conclude the law of sediment transport both in typhoon and normal wind and the sediment recovery mechanism of the Silver Beach.After a typhoon,the nearshore is scoured and the far offshore is deposited.The average scour d

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18

Galofré, Jordi, José A. Jiménez, and Herminia I. Valdemoro. "BEACH RESTORATION IN THE TARRAGONA COAST (SPAIN); SAND MANAGEMENT DURING THE LAST 25 YEARS AND FUTURE PLANS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 20. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.risk.20.

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Erosion is the dominant behavior along worldwide coastlines. Although many factors can locally influence processes governing coastline evolution some common factors can be identified. Thus, the sediment budget has largely been modified in most of developed coasts, with river sand supplies being drastically reduced due to human influence in drainage basins. On the other hand, coastal segmentation due to infrastructures alters sediment transport patterns and induces and/or accelerates coastline erosion. Within this general context, artificial nourishment has been one of the most used coastal eng

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19

Simeone, Simone, Luca Palombo, Emanuela Molinaroli, Walter Brambilla, Alessandro Conforti, and Giovanni De Falco. "Shoreline Response to Wave Forcing and Sea Level Rise along a Geomorphological Complex Coastline (Western Sardinia, Mediterranean Sea)." Applied Sciences 11, no. 9 (2021): 4009. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/app11094009.

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Beaches responses to storms, as well as their potential adaptation to the foreseeable sea level rise (SLR), were investigated along three beaches in a coastal tract in western Sardinia (Western Mediterranean Sea). The grain size of the sediments, the beach profile variability and the wave climate were analyzed in order to relate morphological changes, geological inheritances and waves forcing. Multibeam, single-beam and lidar data were used to characterize the inner shelf morphologies and to reproduce the flooding due to the SLR. The studied beaches experienced major changes when consecutive s

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20

Hardy, Ian, Zhenhua Huang, David Smith, and Charles H. Fletcher. "Numerical Modeling of Beach Morphological Change: A Case Study of Kaanapali Beach, Maui, Hawaii." International Journal of Ocean and Coastal Engineering 03, no. 01n02 (2020): 2050002. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s2529807020500025.

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This case study reports results from field observations and numerical simulations of waves and morphological changes along a portion of Kaanapali Beach on West Maui, Hawaii, which is protected by a hard coral reef and experiences shoreline changes from season to season. The SWAN spectral wave model shows reasonable agreement with ADCP observations of wave-heights for the winter months. Simulated beach profile change over one-month time frame was able to reasonably capture the trend of beach face migration (accretion or erosion); the modeled shoreline also shows satisfactory agreement with beac

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NICHOLAS C. BROWN and TIFFANY ROBERTS BRIGGS. "SEDIMENTOLOGY OF BEACHES IN NORTHERN PALM BEACH COUNTY, FLORIDA, USA." William Morris Davis – Revista de Geomorfologia 1, no. 1 (2020): 29–46. http://dx.doi.org/10.48025/issn2675-6900.v1n1.p29-46.2020.

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Beach nourishment is a common strategy for erosion mitigation that also increases coastal resilience to storm impacts, provides habitat, and supports the economy. Regulations often require that placed sediment closely match the native grain size distribution and composition, however characteristics can vary based on the borrow site. Certain sediment properties will also influence beach slope and other critical beach functions. This study evaluates the 3-dimensional sediment properties and beach morphology of nourished and non-nourished barrier island beaches in northern Palm Beach County, Flor

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22

Patterson, Dean. "SHOREWARD SAND TRANSPORT OUTSIDE THE SURFZONE, NORTHERN GOLD COAST, AUSTRALIA." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 26. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.sediment.26.

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To date, no suitable theoretical basis has been derived to predict with reliable accuracy the shoreward sand transport under waves in the deeper water outside the surf zone. This is important for understanding the rate of recovery of beaches after major storm erosion and, in some circumstances, to quantify net shoreward supply of sand to the shoreline from the active lower shore-face below the depth of storm erosion bar development. Even a relatively low rate of long term shoreward net supply may contribute to shoreline stability where it offsets a gradient in the longshore sand transport that

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23

Eichentopf, Sonja, Joep van der Zanden, Iván Cáceres, and José M. Alsina. "Beach Profile Evolution towards Equilibrium from Varying Initial Morphologies." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7, no. 11 (2019): 406. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse7110406.

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The evolution of different initial beach profiles towards the same final beach configuration is investigated based on large-scale experimental data. The same wave condition was performed three times, each time starting from a different initial profile morphology. The three different initial profiles are an intermediate energy profile with an offshore bar and a small swash berm, a plane profile and a low energy profile with a large berm. The three cases evolve towards the same final (equilibrium) profile determined by the same wave condition. This implies that the same wave condition generates

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Kaczkowski, Haiqing Liu, and Timothy W. Kana. "FINAL DESIGN OF THE NAGS HEAD BEACH NOURISHMENT PROJECT USING A LONGSHORE NUMERICAL MODEL." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 64. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.sediment.64.

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Nags Head, located at the northeastern part of North Carolina in the U.S., has sustained chronic erosion over the past 50 years. In 2005, Coastal Science & Engineering (CSE) was retained by the town of Nags Head to develop an interim beach restoration plan. Profile volume change was used in the planning and preliminary design of the project, and longshore and cross-shore numerical models were used in the final design to refine the preliminary nourishment plan and increase potential longevity of the project. This paper focuses on the key factors of the longshore numerical model setup for th

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Torres-Freyermuth, Alec, Gabriela Medellín, Ernesto Mendoza, Elena Ojeda, and Paulo Salles. "Morphodynamic Response to Low-Crested Detached Breakwaters on a Sea Breeze-Dominated Coast." Water 11, no. 4 (2019): 635. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/w11040635.

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Low-crested detached breakwaters (LCDBs) have been widely employed as a mitigation measure against beach erosion. However, only a few studies have assessed their performance in sea-breeze-dominated environments. This work investigates the beach morphodynamics behind LCDBs deployed on a micro-tidal sea-breeze-dominated beach. The study area, located in the northern Yucatán peninsula, is characterized by low-energy, high-angle waves, which drive a persistent (westward) alongshore sediment transport (O(104) m3/year). High-resolution real-time kinematics global positioning system (GPS) beach surve

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Jarocki, Walenty. "WAVE EFFECT ON THE COAST FORMATION AND EROSION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 7 (2011): 12. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v7.12.

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Various authors explain differently the mechanism of action of waves on the_ sediment movement. Some authors consider that the waves are raising the soil fractions from the bottom and water currents transfer them along the seaboard. The other authors suppose that each wave shears some soil in the bottom in littoral zone of the waves and wind is oblique to the shoreline. Beach currents catch and transport the sediment particles along the seaboard. These authors suppose when the wind is in the direction of seaboard /from sea/ then the bottom currents move in the opposite direction. These current

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Coelho, Carlos, Raquel Silva, Francisco Veloso-Gomes, and Luis Rodrigues. "ARTIFICIAL NOURISHMENT AND SAND BY-PASSING IN THE AVEIRO INLET, PORTUGAL – NUMERICAL STUDIES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 32 (2011): 99. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.99.

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Artificial sand nourishment systems are a potential solution to mitigate erosion beach problems, having been applied in many cases around the world, especially in the U.S.A. and Australia. For the Aveiro inlet, the artificial sand by passing systems may be a good option, due to the availability of sediments accumulating at the north of the northern Aveiro inlet breakwater. A fixed artificial sand by-passing system can be proposed. However, fixed and continuous sand by-passing systems are the most expensive solutions. In order to reduce the economical aspect, periodic sand nourishment and semi-

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Owens, Edward H. "FACTORS AFFECTING THE PERSISTENCE OF STRANDED OIL ON LOW ENERGY COASTS." International Oil Spill Conference Proceedings 1985, no. 1 (1985): 359–65. http://dx.doi.org/10.7901/2169-3358-1985-1-359.

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ABSTRACT Mechanical dispersion by waves is usually considered to be the primary factor that controls the persistence of spilled oil reaching the coast. This assumption is accurate for stable coasts that are not subject to net erosion or accretion and beaches where oil would not be buried by onshore, offshore, or alongshore movement of sediments. On high energy coasts, oil can be rapidly buried or eroded, depending on the stage of beach changes. Similarly, oil stranded on coasts subject to rapid net accretion or erosion is likely to be buried or dispersed. Rapid shoreline changes can occur in a

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Crosby, Sean C., William C. O’Reilly, and Robert T. Guza. "Modeling Long-Period Swell in Southern California: Practical Boundary Conditions from Buoy Observations and Global Wave Model Predictions." Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 33, no. 8 (2016): 1673–90. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jtech-d-16-0038.1.

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AbstractAccurate, unbiased, high-resolution (in space and time) nearshore wave predictions are needed to drive models of beach erosion; coastal flooding; and alongshore transport of sediment, biota, and pollutants. On sheltered shorelines, wave predictions are sensitive to the directions of onshore propagating waves, and nearshore model prediction error is often dominated by directional uncertainty offshore. Here, regional wave model skill in highly sheltered Southern California is compared for different offshore boundary conditions created from offshore buoy observations and global wave model

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Sahin, Cihan, Mehmet Ozturk, Ahmet Altunsu, H. Anil Ari Guner, Yalcin Yuksel, and Kerem Guner. "VULNERABILITY OF A RIVER DELTA COAST TO THE IMPACTS OF CLIMATE CHANGE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36v (December 28, 2020): 30. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.management.30.

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The main drivers of coastal morphology evolution related to climate change are wave characteristics, storm frequency/intensity and watershed runoff. Estuaries and deltaic plains, strongly affected by the sea-level change, are highly vulnerable to future climate change impacts. Karasu Beach, located in the southwestern Black Sea, Turkey, is impacted by the Sakarya River plume. River discharge and energetic wind and wave climate are among the major physical processes that control the sediment transport pattern along the shoreline. Due to the decrease of sediment runoff to the coast related to th

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Hayes, Miles O., Jacqueline Michel, and David C. Noe. "Factors Controlling Initial Deposition and Long-Term Fate of Spilled Oil on Gravel Beaches." International Oil Spill Conference Proceedings 1991, no. 1 (1991): 453–60. http://dx.doi.org/10.7901/2169-3358-1991-1-453.

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ABSTRACT Several major oil spills of record (including the 1974 Metula spill, the 1978 Amoco Cadiz spill, and the 1989 Exxon Valdez spill) occurred along shorelines with abundant gravel beaches. Observations of these spills help in understanding factors controlling the initial deposition and long-term fate of spilled oil in such locations. Gravel beaches are most common on rocky, glaciated coasts (Holocene and/or Pleistocene). For example, leading-edge coastlines in subpolar to polar regions, of which the Alaska coast is a prime example, may have gravel beach deposits along more than 50 percen

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Kana, Timothy W., and Haiqing Liu Kaczkowski. "PLANNING, PRELIMINARY DESIGN, AND INITIAL PERFORMANCE OF THE NAGS HEAD BEACH NOURISHMENT PROJECT." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 109. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.sediment.109.

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A 3.5 million cubic meter beach nourishment project was completed along 16 kilometers of shoreline at Nags Head, North Carolina, 32 kilometers south of the US Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility at Duck. The project is the largest locally-funded nourishment accomplished to date in the United States. Three ocean-certified hopper dredges and one cutterhead suction dredge constructed the project between May and October 2011. This paper discusses the planning, design, and initial performance of the project. Nags Head is exposed to high waves from the northeast which generate net southe

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Cascalho, João, Pedro J. M. Costa, Guy Gelfenbaum, Seanpaul La Selle, and Bruce Jaffe. "Selective sediment transport during Hurricane Sandy on Fire Island (New York, USA): Inferences from heavy-mineral assemblages." Journal of Sedimentary Research 90, no. 3 (2020): 269–85. http://dx.doi.org/10.2110/jsr.2020.12.

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ABSTRACT In October 2012, Hurricane Sandy caused severe erosion on beaches and dunes of Fire Island (New York, USA). Major shoreline changes occurred with erosional dominance in the upper shoreline and aggradation in the lowermost section of the beach due to the deposition of eroded upper-beach and dune sediment. Sand laminae with a high concentration of heavy minerals (“black sand laminae”) were observed in three excavated trenches located on a washover terrace and fan on the east side of Fire Island. The mineral composition of these laminae reveals the presence of high quantities of magnetit

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Balaji, R., S. Sathish Kumar, and Ankita Misra. "Understanding the effects of seawall construction using a combination of analytical modelling and remote sensing techniques: Case study of Fansa, Gujarat, India." International Journal of Ocean and Climate Systems 8, no. 3 (2017): 153–60. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/1759313117712180.

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The effect of seawall on the adjacent beaches and coastal dynamics has not been well documented in literature. The purpose and function of coastal structures, especially seawalls, have often been misunderstood, as in some cases, seawalls lead to coastal erosion, contrary to protecting the shoreline for which they are generally constructed. Seawalls have been reportedly causing changes in the near-shore process, specifically the sediment dynamics by affecting the onshore/offshore and, to some extent, the longshore sand transport. Therefore, it becomes imperative to understand the effect of seaw

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35

Grases, Albert, Vicente Gracia, Manuel García-León, Jue Lin-Ye, and Joan Pau Sierra. "Coastal Flooding and Erosion under a Changing Climate: Implications at a Low-Lying Coast (Ebro Delta)." Water 12, no. 2 (2020): 346. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/w12020346.

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Episodic coastal hazards associated to sea storms are responsible for sudden and intense changes in coastal morphology. Climate change and local anthropogenic activities such as river regulation and urban growth are raising risk levels in coastal hotspots, like low-lying areas of river deltas. This urges to revise present management strategies to guarantee their future sustainability, demanding a detailed diagnostic of the hazard evolution. In this paper, flooding and erosion under current and future conditions have been assessed at local scale at the urban area of Riumar, a touristic enclave

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Huisman, Bastiaan, Dirk-Jan Walstra, Max Radermacher, Matthieu de Schipper, and Gerben Ruessink. "Observations and Modelling of Shoreface Nourishment Behaviour." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7, no. 3 (2019): 59. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse7030059.

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Shoreface nourishments are commonly applied for coastal maintenance, but their behaviour is not well understood. Bathymetric data of 19 shoreface nourishments located at alongshore uniform sections of the Dutch coast were therefore analyzed and used to validate an efficient method for predicting the erosion of shoreface nourishments. Data shows that considerable cross-shore profile change takes place at a shoreface nourishment, while an impact at the adjacent coast is hard to distinguish. The considered shoreface nourishments provide a long-term (3 to ∼30 years) cross-shore supply of sediment

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GHIONIS, G., S. E. POULOS, E. VERYKIOU, A. KARDITSA, G. ALEXANDRAKIS, and P. ANDRIS. "The Impact of an Extreme Storm Event on the Barrier Beach of the Lefkada Lagoon, NE Ionian Sea (Greece)." Mediterranean Marine Science 16, no. 3 (2015): 562. http://dx.doi.org/10.12681/mms.948.

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The present investigation examines the characteristics of a high energy storm event, that took place on November 9-11, 2007 in the NE Ionian Sea (eastern Mediterranean), and its impact upon the barrier beach that separates the Lefkada lagoon from the open Ionian Sea. The storm event was caused by NW winds with speeds exceeding 20 m/s (40 knots), which have an annual frequency of occurrence less than 0.015%. This high energy event produced waves with >5 m significant offshore height and 9.5 s period; these waves developed on 10th November during the rapid rise of barometric pressure (~1.4 hP

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Kuang, Cuiping, Xuejian Han, Jiabo Zhang, Qingping Zou, and Boling Dong. "Morphodynamic Evolution of a Nourished Beach with Artificial Sandbars: Field Observations and Numerical Modeling." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 9, no. 3 (2021): 245. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse9030245.

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Beach nourishment, a common practice to replenish an eroded beach face with filling sand, has become increasingly popular as an environmentally friendly soft engineering measure to tackle coastal erosion. In this study, three 200 m long offshore submerged sandbars were placed about 200 m from the shore in August 2017 for both coastal protection and beach nourishment at Shanhai Pass, Bohai Sea, northeastern China. A series of 21 beach profiles were collected from August 2017 to July 2018 to monitor the morphological changes of the nourished beach. Field observations of wave and tide levels were

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Minoura, Koji, and Norihiro Nakamura. "Eustatic, Climatic and Tectonic Controls on the Evolution of a Middle to Late Holocene Coastal Dune System in Shimokita, Northeast Japan." Geosciences 10, no. 10 (2020): 410. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/geosciences10100410.

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The Pacific coast of the Shimokita Peninsula, Northeast Japan, is occupied by one of the larger dune complexes in Japan. This coastal aeolian dune complex developed during the Holocene in a monsoon-influenced temperate climatic belt. The stratigraphic and sedimentological characteristics of outcrops, exposures and cores indicate that four generation of aeolian dunes are presented. These dunes developed during eustatic regression following the post-glacial sea-level highstand. Seaward shoreline movement, combined with strong winds from the Pacific Ocean, enhanced aeolian grain transport on the

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Vieira, Bárbara F. V., José L. S. Pinho, Joaquim A. O. Barros, and José S. Antunes do Carmo. "Hydrodynamics and Morphodynamics Performance Assessment of Three Coastal Protection Structures." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 8, no. 3 (2020): 175. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse8030175.

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Coastal areas accommodate a great part of large metropolises as they support a great amount of economic and leisure activities. The attraction of people to coastal zones is contributing to an intense and continuous urbanization of these areas, while the ecosystems are threatened by the increase of natural extreme weather events (e.g., intensity and duration of storms, floods), which interfere with local wave climate and changes in morphological beach characteristics. Protection of coastal zones predisposed to coastline recession, due to the action of high tides, high sediment transport deficit

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Splinter, Kristen, Mitchell Harley, and Ian Turner. "Remote Sensing Is Changing Our View of the Coast: Insights from 40 Years of Monitoring at Narrabeen-Collaroy, Australia." Remote Sensing 10, no. 11 (2018): 1744. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/rs10111744.

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Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach, located on the Northern Beaches of Sydney along the Pacific coast of southeast Australia, is one of the longest continuously monitored beaches in the world. This paper provides an overview of the evolution and international scientific impact of this long-term beach monitoring program, from its humble beginnings over 40 years ago using the rod and tape measure Emery field survey method; to today, where the application of remote sensing data collection including drones, satellites and crowd-sourced smartphone images, are now core aspects of this continuing and much expa

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Fenaish, T. A., M. F. Overton, and J. S. Fisher. "DUNE EROSION AND SEDIMENT PROFILE DUE TO WAVE UPRUSH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (1988): 106. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.106.

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Shorelines are continuously adjusting in response to the changing hydraulic and meteorological conditions. Storms that generate large waves and surge conditions can alter the nearshore topography and relocate the beach shorelines, often with substantial amounts of beach and dune erosion. Such storms pose a major threat to coastal developments for which the economic impact can be significant. The ability to predict the rate of erosion and, consequently the shoreline change, is important in making decisions regarding the planning and managing of the coastal regions. In general, the available met

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Putro, Anthony Harlly Sasono, and Jung Lyul Lee. "Analysis of Longshore Drift Patterns on the Littoral System of Nusa Dua Beach in Bali, Indonesia." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 8, no. 10 (2020): 749. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse8100749.

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Bali is one of the most popular tourist areas in Indonesia. With its coastline stretching 633 km, Bali has many beautiful beaches that have become world tourism attractions, thus making tourism the economic engine of Bali. The biggest priority of major tourism sites is maintaining sufficient beach width. However, based on a survey from Balai Wilayah Sungai (BWS) Bali Penida, Bali has suffered from a series of erosions along 215 km of its coastline, including Nusa Dua, in 2015. The location of the study area for this report is a 2.8 km stretch of coastline at Nusa Dua Beach. The erosion problem

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Saponieri, Alessandra, Nico Valentini, Marcello Di Risio, Davide Pasquali, and Leonardo Damiani. "Laboratory Investigation on the Evolution of a Sandy Beach Nourishment Protected by a Mixed Soft–Hard System." Water 10, no. 9 (2018): 1171. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/w10091171.

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A new experimental campaign on a 2D movable-bed physical model, reproducing a typical nourishment sandy beach profile, is being carried out in the wave flume of the Laboratory of Coastal Engineering at Politecnico di Bari (Bari, Italy). The main aim is to assess the short-term evolution of a sandy beach nourishment, relying on a mixed solution built on the deployment of a Beach Drainage System (BDS) and a rubble-mound detached submerged breakwater. This paper aims at illustrating the experimental findings. Tests presented herein deal with both unprotected and protected configurations, focusing

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Walling, Katlin, Douglas Gaffney, and Moses Katkowski. "WAVE ATTENUATION AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT MONITORING OF LIVING SHORELINES IN THE DELAWARE BAY, U.S." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 53. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.sediment.53.

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Living shorelines are considered a more natural approach to shoreline stabilization for low-energy coastlines in contrast to traditional â€œhardâ€ shoreline armoring methods (i.e. bulkheads). Living shorelines often vary by design and materials, which are optimized for site-specific coastal and environmental conditions, such as wave climate, tidal range, sunlight exposure, etc.; however, the core benefits of all engineered living shorelines are typically the same: reduce shoreline erosion; enhance marine, intertidal, or backshore habitat; and increase resiliency to storm surge and/or sea leve

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Cánovas, Verónica, and Raúl Medina. "A LONG-TERM EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PLANFORM MODEL FOR COASTAL WORK DESIGN." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 43. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.sediment.43.

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Traditional models usually allow fitting the equilibrium beach planform of crenulated beaches knowing wave climate characteristics at a control point. However, sometimes there are shoals or bars in the surf zone which affect surf zone dynamics and longshore sediment distribution, and it is difficult to take into account these elements using those traditional models. A long-term equilibrium beach planform model is proposed here based on sediment transport equations. This model takes into account the sediment transport due to oblique wave incidence and that due to wave height gradient. Two case

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Galofré, Jordi, Jordi Galofré, Dolores Ortiz, and Raúl Medina. "LONG TERM BEACH EROSION: MORPHODYNAMIC CASE STUDY IN MONT-ROIG BEACH, SPAIN." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 33 (2012): 68. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.sediment.68.

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Long term coastal erosion in beaches induced by long-shore sediment transport is an important aspect to be taken account in beach behavior. If anthropogenic impacts in coastal stretch (harbor, detached breakwaters, lack of sediments from streams and gullies, and urban pressure) interrupting long-shore currents and transport and decreasing sediment supply, the coastal equilibrium disappears. In this paper a case study is shown in order to analyze long term beach behavior in a coastal stretch affected by erosion. After a brief description of morphological aspects, causes and effects that have in

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Hung, Nguyen Manh. "Long shore sediment transport computation for Hai Hau beach-Nam Dinh province." Vietnam Journal of Mechanics 25, no. 1 (2003): 39–48. http://dx.doi.org/10.15625/0866-7136/25/1/6577.

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Several stretches of shore line in the Red River Delta (RRD) are suffering from severe erosion, especially an area between too large river mouths Balat in the North and Day in the South, known as Hai Hau beach. Several different hypothesis have been put forward to explain this erosion. The cut off of the Ha Lan river mouth (in 1955) which discharged sediment at the upstream end of the beach, possibly affects Hai Hau beach. Also, the construction of Hoa Binh dam in the upstream part of Red river has reduced the sediment supply to the area. In this study, it is shown that the prevailing wave cli

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Kim, Hyun Dong, and Shin-ichi Aoki. "Artificial Intelligence Application on Sediment Transport." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 9, no. 6 (2021): 600. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse9060600.

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When erosion occurs, sand beaches cannot maintain sufficient sand width, foreshore slopes become steeper due to frequent erosion effects, and beaches are trapped in a vicious cycle of vulnerability due to incident waves. Accordingly, beach nourishment can be used as a countermeasure to simultaneously minimize environmental impacts. However, beach nourishment is not a permanent solution and requires periodic renourishment after several years. To address this problem, minimizing the period of renourishment is an economical alternative. In the present study, using the Tuvaluan coast with its cros

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Prestedge, Gordon K., and Christopher A. Fleming. "ANALYSIS OF A BEACH QUALITY PROBLEM." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 108. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.108.

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A study was recently undertaken to investigate sediment transport on a section of coastline where recreational beaches have experienced periodic erosion. Alongshore, onshore/offshore and aeolian sediment transport processes were investigated and quantitative transports predicted with the aid of calibration using surveys and aerial photographs. This paper describes the study and the recommendations proposed for beach quality improvements.

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