Academic literature on the topic 'Shoaling zone'

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Journal articles on the topic "Shoaling zone"

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A. Houekpoheha, Mathias, Basile B. Kounouhewa, Joël T. Hounsou, Bernard N. Tokpohozin, Jean V. Hounguevou, and Cossi N. Awanou. "Variations of wave energy power in shoaling zone of Benin coastal zone." International Journal of Renewable Energy Development 4, no. 1 (2015): 64–71. http://dx.doi.org/10.14710/ijred.4.1.64-71.

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Today, we observe at the population level, that the improvement in comfort is accompanied by an increase in the electrical energy required. The predicted exhaustion of fossil energy resources maintains some speculation. Their unequal geographical distribution justifies the energy dependence of Benin overlooked from outside. So it is urgent to explore the various sources of renewable energy available to Benin. In this work, using measurements made ​​by the Millennium Challenge Account (MCA-Benin) as part of the extension of the port of Cotonou, with Boussinesq equations (Peregrine) and Stokes w
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Marino, Massimiliano, Iván Cáceres Rabionet, Rosaria Ester Musumeci, and Enrico Foti. "RELIABILITY OF PRESSURE SENSORS TO MEASURE WAVE HEIGHT IN THE SHOALING REGION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 10. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.papers.10.

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A comparison between a range of transfer functions to recover wave height from pressure sensors data is presented. The analysis is carried out by means of a large-scale wave flume experimental dataset, in which resistive, acoustic and pressure gauges recovered wave height are compared as the waves travel from intermediate waters, to the shoaling region and finally into the surf zone. All the considered transfer functions result adequate in recovering wave height in intermediate waters, becoming gradually less accurate as the steepness of the wave increases in the shoaling region and in the sur
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Magurran, Anne, and Helder Queiroz. "Partner choice in piranha shoals." Behaviour 140, no. 3 (2003): 289–99. http://dx.doi.org/10.1163/156853903321826639.

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AbstractAlthough the red-bellied piranha, Pygocentrus nattereri is widely portrayed as a pack-hunting predator virtually nothing is known about its shoaling behaviour. Using fish collected in the flooded forest of the Brazilian Amazon, we conducted a range of choice tests to determine whether individual piranhas make non-random shoaling decisions. These revealed that partner size had a significant impact on shoaling preferences. Piranha shoals were size structured with large, sexually mature, individuals occupying the central zone (defined as within the polygon connecting fish at the edge of t
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Kim, Yeon-Joong, Jong-Sung Yoon, Makoto Hasegawa, and Jae-Hoon Jeong. "Evaluation of the Applicability of STIV to Wave Characteristic Measurement in the Swash Zone." Korea Society of Coastal Disaster Prevention 8, no. 3 (2021): 141–50. http://dx.doi.org/10.20481/kscdp.2021.8.3.141.

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The swash zone is an area that causes a change in the shape of a beach by generating sediment transport under the influence of intermittent waves, where wave run-up and run-down are infinitely repeated in the final stage of the shoaling process. However, the ability to predict the sediment transport is extremely poor despite the swash zone being an extremely important area in terms of offshore disaster prevention. In particular, many researchers are conducting studies on the development of various types of observation equipment and analysis techniques because the turbulent flow of active fluid
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Xiao, Qian-lu, Chun-hui Li, Xiao-yan Fu, and Mei-ju Wang. "Extended Elliptic Mild Slope Equation Incorporating the Nonlinear Shoaling Effect." Polish Maritime Research 23, s1 (2016): 44–51. http://dx.doi.org/10.1515/pomr-2016-0045.

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Abstract The transformation during wave propagation is significantly important for the calculations of hydraulic and coastal engineering, as well as the sediment transport. The exact wave height deformation calculation on the coasts is essential to near-shore hydrodynamics research and the structure design of coastal engineering. According to the wave shoaling results gained from the elliptical cosine wave theory, the nonlinear wave dispersion relation is adopted to develop the expression of the corresponding nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient. Based on the extended elliptic mild slope equati
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Landing, Ed, Stephen R. Westrop, and Leanne A. Knox. "Conodonts, stratigraphy, and relative sea-level changes of the Tribes Hill Formation (Lower Ordovician, east-central New York)." Journal of Paleontology 70, no. 4 (1996): 656–80. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022336000023623.

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Tremadocian onlap is recorded by the Tribes Hill Formation. The formation is a lower Lower Ordovician (upper conodont Fauna B Interval(?)-Rossodus manitouensis Zone) depositional sequence that unconformably overlies the Upper Cambrian Little Falls Formation.Depositional environments and stratigraphy indicate that the Tribes Hill was deposited on a wave-, not tide-, dominated shelf and that a uniform, “layer-cake” stratigraphy is present. The deepening-shoaling sequence of the Tribes Hill includes the: 1) Sprakers Member (new; peritidal carbonate and overlying tempestite limestone and shale); 2
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LIN, PENGZHI, and PHILIP L. F. LIU. "A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 359 (March 25, 1998): 239–64. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s002211209700846x.

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This paper describes the development of a numerical model for studying the evolution of a wave train, shoaling and breaking in the surf zone. The model solves the Reynolds equations for the mean (ensemble average) flow field and the k–ε equations for the turbulent kinetic energy, k, and the turbulence dissipation rate, ε. A nonlinear Reynolds stress model (Shih, Zhu & Lumley 1996) is employed to relate the Reynolds stresses and the strain rates of the mean flow. To track free-surface movements, the volume of fluid (VOF) method is employed. To ensure the accuracy of each component of the nu
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Yang, Jia Xuan, Xun Qiang Li, Li Jun Yu, Lei Wang, and Hong Wang. "Surf Shoaling and Breaking on Two-Slope Flume Experiments." Advanced Materials Research 971-973 (June 2014): 760–63. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.971-973.760.

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A flume experiment is carried out to explore regular waves shoaling and breaking in surf zone. The topography is two-slope model, which is composed of a steep slope 1:5 and a gentle slope 1:40. The incidence waves have heights of 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09 and 0.10 m, and periods of 1.0 sec. In order to describe the wave propagation in surf zone, wave height is collected by wave gauges and wave breaking is recorded by high-speed camera. The results show that, when incidence height is increased, the breaking height increases, while the location of breaking point moves forward. When the incide
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Watanabe, Akira, and Mohammad Dibajnia. "A NUMERICAL MODEL OF WAVE DEFORMATION IN SURF ZONE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (1988): 41. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.41.

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A numerical model is presented for nearshore wave deformation due to shoaling and breaking, and to decay and recovery in the surf zone. The model is based on a set of time-dependent mild slope equations including a term of wave energy dissipation caused by breaking. Its applicability is demonstrated by comparisons between the computations and the measurements of cross-shore distributions of the wave height and potential energy over typical beach configurations.
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List, Jeffrey H. "WAVE GROUPINESS AS A SOURCE OF NEARSHORE LONG WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 38. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.38.

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Data from a low energy swell-dominated surf zone are examined for indications that observed low frequency motions are simply group-forced bounded long waves. Time series of wave amplitude are compared to filtered long wave records through cross-spectral and cross-correlation analysis. These methods are found to have limited usefulness until long waves are separated into seaward and shoreward components. Then a clear picture of a rapidly shoaling bounded long wave emerges, with a minimum of nearly one fourth of the long wave amplitude being explainable by this type of motion close to shore. Thr
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Dissertations / Theses on the topic "Shoaling zone"

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Shand, Thomas Duncan Civil &amp Environmental Engineering Faculty of Engineering UNSW. "The effect of wave grouping on shoaling and breaking processes." Awarded by:University of New South Wales. Civil & Environmental Engineering, 2009. http://handle.unsw.edu.au/1959.4/44588.

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Determining the largest breaking wave height which can occur in water of finite depth is a fundamental reference quantity for the design of coastal structures. Current design guidelines are based on investigations which predominantly used monochromatic waves, thereby neglecting group effects which are inherent to the free propagation of waves in deep water. The Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM) states that wave grouping and its consequences is of significant concern, with breakwater armour damage being generally attributed to higher waves associated with wave groups. However, the CEM also ackno
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Zhang, Jie. "Intéractions vagues-fond marin et mécanismes de formation des vagues scélérates en zone côtière Wave-bottom interaction and extreme wave statistics due to shoaling and de-shoaling of irregular long-crested wave trains over steep seabed changes." Thesis, Ecole centrale de Marseille, 2020. http://www.theses.fr/2020ECDM0003.

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Dans la communauté maritime, le terme de "vague scélérate" est utilisé pour les vagues dont la hauteur dépasse le double de la hauteur significative de l'état de mer ambiant, et qui apparaissent plus fréquemment que prédit par la distribution de Rayleigh pour les hauteurs de vagues, fondée sur une hypothèse d’état de mer gaussien. En domaine océanique, des vagues scélérates ayant causé des pertes de vies humaines et de graves dommages ont été massivement signalées au cours des dernières décennies. Dans les zones côtières, une bathymétrie irrégulière peut également provoquer des vagues extrêmes
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Alenezi, Saleh. "Micropalaeontology, palaeoenvironments and sequence stratigraphy of the Sulaiy Formation of eastern Saudi Arabia." Thesis, University of Plymouth, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/9330.

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The Sulaiy Formation, which is the oldest unit in the Lower Cretaceous succession, is conformably overlain by the Yamama Formation and it is a challenge to identify the precise age of the two formations using foraminifera and other microfossil assemblages. In the eastern side of Saudi Arabia, the Sulaiy Formation and the base of Yamama Formation are poorly studied. The main objectives of this study is to enhance the understanding of the Sulaiy Formation sequence stratigraphical correlation, regional lateral variations and palaeoenvironmental investigation. Lithological and semi-quantitative mi
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Books on the topic "Shoaling zone"

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Ferriole, Mary Ann. Laboratory observations of the evolution of surface-gravity waves through the shoaling and breaking regions and the surf zone. 1991.

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Book chapters on the topic "Shoaling zone"

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Zhang, Kai, Guangsheng Wang, Jian Shi, and Chi Zhang. "Laboratory Study on Wave Height Distribution of Bimodal Spectral Wave in Shoaling and Surf Zone." In Sustainable Civil Infrastructures. Springer Nature Switzerland, 2025. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-90717-3_93.

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J. Méndez, Fernando, and Ana Rueda. "Wave climates: deep water to shoaling zone." In Sandy Beach Morphodynamics. Elsevier, 2020. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-08-102927-5.00003-5.

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Schoepfer, Shane D., and Charles M. Henderson. "Paleogeographic Implications of Open-Marine Anoxia in the Permian–Triassic Slide Mountain Ocean." In Late Paleozoic and Early Mesozoic Tectonostratigraphy and Biostratigraphy of Western Pangea. SEPM (Society for Sedimentary Geology), 2022. http://dx.doi.org/10.2110/sepmsp.113.10.

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The end-Permian mass extinction was associated with the onset of anoxia in widespread marine environments; however, the extent of this anoxia remains controversial. Proposed models range from near-universal “superanoxia” in the Panthalassic Basin to a more limited expansion of anoxia in the upper water column in response to enhanced primary productivity. The Peck Creek and Ursula Creek sections of northern British Columbia were deposited at ~200 m water depth in the Ishbel Trough, on the margin of cratonic North America. This trough was generally contiguous with the Slide Mountain Ocean, and t
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Conference papers on the topic "Shoaling zone"

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Hsu, Tai-Wen, Ta-Yuan Lin, Hwung-Hweng Hwung, Yaron Toledo, and Aron Roland. "Numerical Simulation of Wave Transformation Across the Surf Zone Over a Steep Bottom." In ASME 2010 29th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2010. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2010-20974.

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The combined effect of shoaling, breaking and energy dissipation on a sloping bottom was investigated. Based on the conservation principle of wave motion, a combined shoaling and bottom slope coefficient is included in the mild-slope equation (MSE) which is derived as a function of the bottom slope perturbed to the third-order. The model incorporates the nonlinear shoaling coefficient and energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the simulation prior to wave breaking and in the surf zone over a steep bottom. The evolution equation of the MSE is implemented in th
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Davis, Catherine, and Pincelli M. Hull. "DEGLACIAL SHOALING OF THE EASTERN EQUATORIAL PACIFIC OXYGEN MINIMUM ZONE." In GSA Connects 2021 in Portland, Oregon. Geological Society of America, 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.1130/abs/2021am-368322.

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Becq, Françoise, Michel Benoit, and Philippe Forget. "Evolution non-linéaire de la houle dans la zone de shoaling." In Journées Nationales Génie Côtier - Génie Civil. Editions Paralia, 1998. http://dx.doi.org/10.5150/jngcgc.1998.008-b.

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Hsu, Tai-Wen, and Kun-Sian Lai. "Wave Height Variation Across Surf Zone of Bar Type Profile." In ASME 2009 28th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2009-80233.

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Analytical solutions for wave height decay due to shoaling and breaking on a bar type profile are presented. A macroscopic analogy between an idealized surf zone and a hydraulic jump are incorporated in the theory to account for wave transformation and energy dissipation in the surf zone. The theoretical results are fairly compared with laboratory observations. Key parameters that influence wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are investigated.
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Mocke, G. P., and F. Smit. "A Relative Intercomparison Between Variable Wave Shoaling, Breaking and Transition Zone Formulations." In 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. American Society of Civil Engineers, 1995. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/9780784400890.172.

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Baba, Yasuyuki, Takao Yamashita, and Shigeru Kato. "RELATION BETWEEN SEA SURFACE STRESS AND WHITECAP DISSIPATION IN THE SHOALING ZONE." In Proceedings of the 28th International Conference. World Scientific Publishing Company, 2003. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/9789812791306_0022.

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Mendes, Saulo, Yuchen He, Kapil Chauhan, Amin Chabchoub, and Jérôme Kasparian. "Laboratory Experiments on Statistics of Shoaling Finite Amplitude Waves." In ASME 2024 43rd International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2024. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2024-126908.

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Abstract The formation, growth and increase in the frequency of extreme waves over the coast has been consistently observed and reproduced in laboratory experiments in recent years. On the other hand, as soon as waves reach the surfzone, a new regime comes into play where sub-Gaussian wave statistics dominate, as described by Glukhovskiy-type of height distributions. Dealing with a wave field transitioning from steady-state to out-of-equilibrium conditions due to a steep shoal, available theories can model the rogue wave amplification near shallow water regimes before the surf zone. Neverthele
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Belibassakis, K. A. "Infragravity Waves Induced by Short-Wave Groups in Coastal Regions Characterized by General Bottom Topography." In ASME 2011 30th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2011. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2011-49280.

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The free long-wave generation by short-wave groups over a sloping bottom is studied both experimentally and theoretically by various authors showing important results concerning the modelling of energy transfer from the short waves to subharmonics. In the present work, the coupled-mode model developed by Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (1999) for the propagation of water waves over variable bathymetry regions, as generalized to include dissipation due to bottom friction and breaking effects, is applied to calculate the spatial evolution of short-wave groups propagating over a shoaling area, c
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El Safty, Hoda M., Alaa M. Mansour, and A. G. Abul-Azm. "Propagation of Fully Nonlinear Waves in Deepwater, Transition Zone and Shallow-Water." In ASME 2007 26th International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering. ASMEDC, 2007. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2007-29398.

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In this paper, a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank model has been used to simulate the propagation of fully nonlinear waves in different water depths. In the numerical wave tank model, the fully nonlinear dynamic and kinematic free-surface boundary conditions have been applied and the boundary integral equation (BIE) solution to the Laplacian problem has been obtained using the Mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian (MEL) approach. The model solution has been verified through the comparison with the available experimental data. A convergence and accuracy study has been carried out to examine the time ste
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Mendes, Saulo, and Jérôme Kasparian. "Slope Effect on the Evolution of Kurtosis Over a Shoal." In ASME 2023 42nd International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering. American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2023. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/omae2023-107884.

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Abstract Shoaling surface gravity waves induce rogue wave formation, but are reduced to water waves passing over a step. We show that non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered in this problem. A spatially varying energy density describes the dependence of the rogue wave amplification as a function of the slope steepness. Increasing the slope increases the amplification of rogue wave probability, until this amplification saturates at steep slopes. In contrast, the increase of the down slope of a subsequent de-shoal zone leads to a monotonic decrease in the rogue wave probabi
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Reports on the topic "Shoaling zone"

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Vandemark, Douglas. Variation of Short-scale Waves in the Shoaling Zone. Defense Technical Information Center, 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada629301.

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Vandemark, Douglas. Variation of Short-Scale Waves in the Shoaling Zone. Defense Technical Information Center, 2000. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada625206.

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Crawford, Timothy L., and Gennaro H. Crescenti. Spatial Variation of Wind Stress and Wave Field in the Shoaling Zone. Defense Technical Information Center, 2000. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada610178.

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Crawford, Timothy L., and Gennaro H. Crescenti. Spatial Variation of Wind Stress and Wave Field in the Shoaling Zone. Defense Technical Information Center, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada627971.

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Crawford, Timothy L. Spatial Variation of Waves, Stress and Wind Field in the Shoaling Zone. Defense Technical Information Center, 1997. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada633472.

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Mahrt, Larry. Spatial Variations of the Wave, Stress and Wind Fields in the Shoaling Zone. Defense Technical Information Center, 2000. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada610250.

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Mahrt, Larry. Spatial Variations of the Wave, Stress and Wind Fields in the Shoaling Zone. Defense Technical Information Center, 1999. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada613954.

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Mahrt, Larry. Spatial Variations of the Wave, Stress and Wind Fields in the Shoaling Zone. Defense Technical Information Center, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada627900.

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Sun, Jielun. Spatial Variations of the Wave, Stress, and Wind Fields in the Shoaling Zone. Defense Technical Information Center, 2001. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada628090.

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Sun, Jielun. Spatial Variations of the Wave, Stress and Wind Fields in the Shoaling Zone. Defense Technical Information Center, 1999. http://dx.doi.org/10.21236/ada631605.

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