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Journal articles on the topic 'Shoaling zone'

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Published: 3 June 2025
Last updated: 31 July 2025

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1

A. Houekpoheha, Mathias, Basile B. Kounouhewa, Joël T. Hounsou, Bernard N. Tokpohozin, Jean V. Hounguevou, and Cossi N. Awanou. "Variations of wave energy power in shoaling zone of Benin coastal zone." International Journal of Renewable Energy Development 4, no. 1 (2015): 64–71. http://dx.doi.org/10.14710/ijred.4.1.64-71.

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Today, we observe at the population level, that the improvement in comfort is accompanied by an increase in the electrical energy required. The predicted exhaustion of fossil energy resources maintains some speculation. Their unequal geographical distribution justifies the energy dependence of Benin overlooked from outside. So it is urgent to explore the various sources of renewable energy available to Benin. In this work, using measurements made ​​by the Millennium Challenge Account (MCA-Benin) as part of the extension of the port of Cotonou, with Boussinesq equations (Peregrine) and Stokes w
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Marino, Massimiliano, Iván Cáceres Rabionet, Rosaria Ester Musumeci, and Enrico Foti. "RELIABILITY OF PRESSURE SENSORS TO MEASURE WAVE HEIGHT IN THE SHOALING REGION." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 10. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.papers.10.

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A comparison between a range of transfer functions to recover wave height from pressure sensors data is presented. The analysis is carried out by means of a large-scale wave flume experimental dataset, in which resistive, acoustic and pressure gauges recovered wave height are compared as the waves travel from intermediate waters, to the shoaling region and finally into the surf zone. All the considered transfer functions result adequate in recovering wave height in intermediate waters, becoming gradually less accurate as the steepness of the wave increases in the shoaling region and in the sur
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Magurran, Anne, and Helder Queiroz. "Partner choice in piranha shoals." Behaviour 140, no. 3 (2003): 289–99. http://dx.doi.org/10.1163/156853903321826639.

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AbstractAlthough the red-bellied piranha, Pygocentrus nattereri is widely portrayed as a pack-hunting predator virtually nothing is known about its shoaling behaviour. Using fish collected in the flooded forest of the Brazilian Amazon, we conducted a range of choice tests to determine whether individual piranhas make non-random shoaling decisions. These revealed that partner size had a significant impact on shoaling preferences. Piranha shoals were size structured with large, sexually mature, individuals occupying the central zone (defined as within the polygon connecting fish at the edge of t
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4

Kim, Yeon-Joong, Jong-Sung Yoon, Makoto Hasegawa, and Jae-Hoon Jeong. "Evaluation of the Applicability of STIV to Wave Characteristic Measurement in the Swash Zone." Korea Society of Coastal Disaster Prevention 8, no. 3 (2021): 141–50. http://dx.doi.org/10.20481/kscdp.2021.8.3.141.

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The swash zone is an area that causes a change in the shape of a beach by generating sediment transport under the influence of intermittent waves, where wave run-up and run-down are infinitely repeated in the final stage of the shoaling process. However, the ability to predict the sediment transport is extremely poor despite the swash zone being an extremely important area in terms of offshore disaster prevention. In particular, many researchers are conducting studies on the development of various types of observation equipment and analysis techniques because the turbulent flow of active fluid
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5

Xiao, Qian-lu, Chun-hui Li, Xiao-yan Fu, and Mei-ju Wang. "Extended Elliptic Mild Slope Equation Incorporating the Nonlinear Shoaling Effect." Polish Maritime Research 23, s1 (2016): 44–51. http://dx.doi.org/10.1515/pomr-2016-0045.

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Abstract The transformation during wave propagation is significantly important for the calculations of hydraulic and coastal engineering, as well as the sediment transport. The exact wave height deformation calculation on the coasts is essential to near-shore hydrodynamics research and the structure design of coastal engineering. According to the wave shoaling results gained from the elliptical cosine wave theory, the nonlinear wave dispersion relation is adopted to develop the expression of the corresponding nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient. Based on the extended elliptic mild slope equati
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Landing, Ed, Stephen R. Westrop, and Leanne A. Knox. "Conodonts, stratigraphy, and relative sea-level changes of the Tribes Hill Formation (Lower Ordovician, east-central New York)." Journal of Paleontology 70, no. 4 (1996): 656–80. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022336000023623.

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Tremadocian onlap is recorded by the Tribes Hill Formation. The formation is a lower Lower Ordovician (upper conodont Fauna B Interval(?)-Rossodus manitouensis Zone) depositional sequence that unconformably overlies the Upper Cambrian Little Falls Formation.Depositional environments and stratigraphy indicate that the Tribes Hill was deposited on a wave-, not tide-, dominated shelf and that a uniform, “layer-cake” stratigraphy is present. The deepening-shoaling sequence of the Tribes Hill includes the: 1) Sprakers Member (new; peritidal carbonate and overlying tempestite limestone and shale); 2
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7

LIN, PENGZHI, and PHILIP L. F. LIU. "A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 359 (March 25, 1998): 239–64. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s002211209700846x.

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This paper describes the development of a numerical model for studying the evolution of a wave train, shoaling and breaking in the surf zone. The model solves the Reynolds equations for the mean (ensemble average) flow field and the k–ε equations for the turbulent kinetic energy, k, and the turbulence dissipation rate, ε. A nonlinear Reynolds stress model (Shih, Zhu & Lumley 1996) is employed to relate the Reynolds stresses and the strain rates of the mean flow. To track free-surface movements, the volume of fluid (VOF) method is employed. To ensure the accuracy of each component of the nu
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8

Yang, Jia Xuan, Xun Qiang Li, Li Jun Yu, Lei Wang, and Hong Wang. "Surf Shoaling and Breaking on Two-Slope Flume Experiments." Advanced Materials Research 971-973 (June 2014): 760–63. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.971-973.760.

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A flume experiment is carried out to explore regular waves shoaling and breaking in surf zone. The topography is two-slope model, which is composed of a steep slope 1:5 and a gentle slope 1:40. The incidence waves have heights of 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09 and 0.10 m, and periods of 1.0 sec. In order to describe the wave propagation in surf zone, wave height is collected by wave gauges and wave breaking is recorded by high-speed camera. The results show that, when incidence height is increased, the breaking height increases, while the location of breaking point moves forward. When the incide
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9

Watanabe, Akira, and Mohammad Dibajnia. "A NUMERICAL MODEL OF WAVE DEFORMATION IN SURF ZONE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (1988): 41. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.41.

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A numerical model is presented for nearshore wave deformation due to shoaling and breaking, and to decay and recovery in the surf zone. The model is based on a set of time-dependent mild slope equations including a term of wave energy dissipation caused by breaking. Its applicability is demonstrated by comparisons between the computations and the measurements of cross-shore distributions of the wave height and potential energy over typical beach configurations.
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10

List, Jeffrey H. "WAVE GROUPINESS AS A SOURCE OF NEARSHORE LONG WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 38. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.38.

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Data from a low energy swell-dominated surf zone are examined for indications that observed low frequency motions are simply group-forced bounded long waves. Time series of wave amplitude are compared to filtered long wave records through cross-spectral and cross-correlation analysis. These methods are found to have limited usefulness until long waves are separated into seaward and shoreward components. Then a clear picture of a rapidly shoaling bounded long wave emerges, with a minimum of nearly one fourth of the long wave amplitude being explainable by this type of motion close to shore. Thr
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11

Krafft, Douglas R., Richard Styles, and Mitchell E. Brown. "Feedback between Basin Morphology and Sediment Transport at Tidal Inlets: Implications for Channel Shoaling." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 10, no. 3 (2022): 442. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse10030442.

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Increasing societal pressures (e.g., population growth and urbanization) are driving land use change practices in coastal areas that could potentially alter the hydrodynamics and sediment transport patterns near coastal inlets in ways that might exacerbate existing shoaling conditions. To investigate the potential impact of coastal development, a numerical model is used to predict the long-term evolution of an idealized lagoonal-type barrier island inlet under five different morphological conditions that transitioned from net sediment import to net sediment export. The simulations were designe
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12

Gilly, William F., J. Michael Beman, Steven Y. Litvin, and Bruce H. Robison. "Oceanographic and Biological Effects of Shoaling of the Oxygen Minimum Zone." Annual Review of Marine Science 5, no. 1 (2013): 393–420. http://dx.doi.org/10.1146/annurev-marine-120710-100849.

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13

Voropayev, S. I., A. W. Cense, G. B. McEachern, D. L. Boyer, and H. J. S. Fernando. "Dynamics of cobbles in the shoaling region of a surf zone." Ocean Engineering 28, no. 7 (2001): 763–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0029-8018(00)00032-9.

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14

Mansard, E. P. D., E. R. Funke, J. S. Readshaw, and R. K. Girard. "ON THE TRANSFORMATION OF WAVE STATISTICS DUE TO SHOALING." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (1988): 7. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.7.

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The results of a 1:40 scale physical model investigation into the shoaling process are described. The model simulated a nearly constant slope of 1:40 with wave measurements made at a depth of approximately 25 and 9 m. Two hundred individual tests were undertaken, with four offshore significant wave heights as the only test variant. The results indicate that the most severe nearshore wave conditions do not occur with the worst offshore conditions. There is evidence of a significant increase in low frequency wave energy in the nearshore zone.
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15

Moura, Theo, and Tom E. Baldock. "The Influence of Free Long Wave Generation on the Shoaling of Forced Infragravity Waves." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7, no. 9 (2019): 305. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse7090305.

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Different conceptual models for forced infragravity (long) waves exist in the literature, which suggest different models for the behavior of shoaling forced waves and the possible radiation of free long waves in that process. These are discussed in terms of existing literature. A simple numerical model is built to evaluate the wave shape in space and time during shoaling of forced waves with concurrent radiation of free long waves to ensure mass continuity. The same qualitative results were found when performing simulations with the COULWAVE model using the radiation stress term in the momentu
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16

McCormack, Tyler, and Julia Hopkins. "RELATING WAVE GEOMETRY AND SURFACE DYNAMICS TO SUBSURFACE VELOCITIES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 37 (September 1, 2023): 79. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.management.79.

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Quantifying subsurface velocity in the surf-zone beneath shoaling/breaking/broken waves is critical to accurately predict nearshore processes such as sediment transport [Hsu and Hanes, 2004]. The in-situ instruments designed to measure this velocity where waves break, such as velocimeters, routinely get buried, broken, or lost in the surf-zone. This limits our ability to collect field datasets of subsurface velocity in energetic wave conditions. To address this, we propose to build on known relationships that link subsurface velocity behavior to more easily observable surface signatures. Here,
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17

Ippen, Arthur T., and Gershon Kulin. "THE SHOALING AND BREAKING OF THE SOLITARY WAVE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 5 (2011): 4. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v5.4.

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The solitary wave is ordinarily defined as a single disturbance of the water surface, which is relatively concentrated and symmetrical and which is propagated, neglecting damping, without change of form. Although it can be readily produced in the laboratory, in what appears to the observer a pure form, its existence (first noted in the field by J. Scott Russell (1) in 183U) as a wave of permanent shape has not yet been established by rigorous mathematical methods. This wave has been the subject of intermittent theoretical and experimental investigation since the days of Russell. In more recent
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18

Larsen, Bjarke Eltard, and David R. Fuhrman. "RANS SIMULATION OF BREAKER BAR DEVELOPMENT USING A STABILIZED TURBULENCE MODEL." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36v (December 28, 2020): 15. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.sediment.15.

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The results demonstrate the significant advantages of utilizing formally stabilized turbulence closure models in accurately predicting the surf zone dynamics, sediment transport, and breaker bar morphology in the shoaling region and in the outer surf zone using RANS models. Simulated evolution using a stabilized turbulence model is demonstrated to predict cross-shore breaker bar position, growth and evolution. This is in contrast to results using (otherwise identical) standard turbulence closure, which tend to flush the bar further offshore. Further improvements are still needed to increase hy
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19

Testik, Firat Y., Sergey I. Voropayev, Harindra Joseph S. Fernando, and Sridhar Balasubramanian. "Mine Burial in the Shoaling Zone: Scaling of Laboratory Results to Oceanic Situations." IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering 32, no. 1 (2007): 204–13. http://dx.doi.org/10.1109/joe.2007.890970.

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20

Houekpoheha, M. A., B. Kounouhewa, and C. N. Awanou. "Modeling of wave characteristics parameters in the shoaling zone with Saint-Venant equations." Advances in Theoretical and Applied Mechanics 12, no. 1 (2020): 1–12. http://dx.doi.org/10.12988/atam.2020.423.

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21

Baldock, T. E. "Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach." Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 462, no. 2070 (2006): 1853–76. http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2005.1642.

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This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, t
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22

Nishimura, Hitoshi, and Tsuguo Sunamura. "NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 106. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.106.

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This paper presents an overall numerical model for predicting beach profile changes due to waves. The local rate of net on/offshore sediment transport is empirically formulated as a function of the Ursell number and Hallermeier parameter. A sub-model of two-dimensional wave transformation includes the wave shoaling, breaking and damping in a surf zone. It is combined with another sub-model of beach profile change for the analyses of wave-profile interaction. The validity of the model is examined through hindcasting of profile changes observed in ordinary and prototype-scale flumes.
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23

You, Tao, Li Ping Zhao, Zheng Xiao, Lun Chao Huang, and Xiao Rui Han. "Research and Analysis on the Wave Transformation and Irregular Wave Breaking Criterion on the Shore." Applied Mechanics and Materials 858 (November 2016): 354–58. http://dx.doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.858.354.

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Within the surf zone which is the region extending from the seaward boundary of wave breaking to the limit of wave uprush, breaking waves are the dominant hydrodynamics acting as the key role for sediment transport and beach profile change. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principally depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave transformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set down and wave height d
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Otsuka, Junichi, and Yasunori Watanabe. "LABORATORY OBSERVATIONS OF DISSOLVED CARBON DIOXIDE TRANSPORT UNDER REGULAR BREAKING WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 77. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.77.

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Air bubbles and strong turbulence that form in water from breaking waves play important roles in gas transfer across the air-sea interface (Melville, 1996). The entrained bubbles increase the total area of air-water interface per unit volume and enhance local gas dissolution into water. The dissolved gases mix in the water mass diffuse by the strong turbulence. These gas transfer-enhancing factors have been parameterized by only wind speed in models of gas transfer velocity in the deep ocean. Bulk parameters based on wind speed cannot be used for a surf zone, where waves break due to shoaling.
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Brinkkemper, J. A., A. T. M. de Bakker, and B. G. Ruessink. "Intrawave sand suspension in the shoaling and surf zone of a field-scale laboratory beach." Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface 122, no. 1 (2017): 356–70. http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/2016jf004061.

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26

Dally, William R., and Robert G. Dean. "CLOSED-FORM SOLUTIONS FOR THE PROBABILITY DENSITY OF WAVE HEIGHT IN THE SURF ZONE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (1988): 60. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.60.

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By invoking the assumption that in the surf zone, random waves behave as a collection of individual regular waves, two closed-form solutions for the probability density function of wave height on planar beaches are derived. The first uses shallow water linear theory for wave shoaling, assumes a uniform incipient condition, and prescribes breaking with a regular wave model that includes both bottom slope and wave steepness effects on the rate of decay. In the second model, the shallow water assumption is removed, and a distribution in wave period (incipient condition) is included. Preliminary r
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27

Hahn, Johannes, Peter Brandt, Sunke Schmidtko, and Gerd Krahmann. "Decadal oxygen change in the eastern tropical North Atlantic." Ocean Science 13, no. 4 (2017): 551–76. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/os-13-551-2017.

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Abstract. Repeat shipboard and multi-year moored observations obtained in the oxygen minimum zone (OMZ) of the eastern tropical North Atlantic (ETNA) were used to study the decadal change in oxygen for the period 2006–2015. Along 23° W between 6 and 14° N, oxygen decreased with a rate of −5.9 ± 3.5 µmol kg−1 decade−1 within the depth covering the deep oxycline (200–400 m), while below the OMZ core (400–1000 m) oxygen increased by 4.0 ± 1.6 µmol kg−1 decade−1 on average. The inclusion of these decadal oxygen trends in the recently estimated oxygen budget for the ETNA OMZ suggests a weakened ven
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28

Andriolo, Umberto, Alberto Azevedo, Gil Gonçalves, and Rui Taborda. "Nearshore Depth Inversion Bathymetry from Coastal Webcam: A Novel Technique Based on Wave Celerity Estimation." Remote Sensing 17, no. 13 (2025): 2274. https://doi.org/10.3390/rs17132274.

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Nearshore bathymetry is key to most oceanographic studies and coastal engineering works. This work proposes a new methodology to assess nearshore wave celerity and infer bathymetry from video images. Shoaling and breaking wave patterns were detected on the Timestacks distinctly, and wave celerity was estimated from wave trajectories. The wave type separation enabled the implementation of specific domain formulations for depth inversion: linear for shoaling and non-linear for breaking waves. The technique was validated over a rocky bottom using video acquisition of an online streaming webcam fo
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Brown, Adam C., and Robert K. Paasch. "The Accelerations of a Wave Measurement Buoy Impacted by Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 9, no. 2 (2021): 214. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse9020214.

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A spherical wave measurement buoy capable of detecting breaking waves has been designed and built. The buoy is 16 inches in diameter and houses a 9 degree of freedom inertial measurement unit (IMU). The orientation and acceleration of the buoy is continuously logged at frequencies up to 200 Hz providing a high fidelity description of the motion of the buoy as it is impacted by breaking waves. The buoy was deployed several times throughout the winter of 2013–2014. Both moored and free-drifting data were acquired in near-shore shoaling waves off the coast of Newport, OR. Almost 200 breaking wave
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Lin, Chang, and Hwung-Hweng Hwung. "Observation and measurement of the bottom boundary layer flow in the prebreaking zone of shoaling waves." Ocean Engineering 29, no. 12 (2002): 1479–502. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0029-8018(01)00094-4.

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31

Aksnesa, Dag L., and Mark D. Ohman. "Multi-decadal shoaling of the euphotic zone in the southern sector of the California Current System." Limnology and Oceanography 54, no. 4 (2009): 1272–81. http://dx.doi.org/10.4319/lo.2009.54.4.1272.

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32

Toni, Mattia, Flavia Frabetti, Gabriella Tedeschi, and Enrico Alleva. "Effects of Environmental Temperature Variation on the Spatio-Temporal Shoaling Behaviour of Adult Zebrafish (Danio rerio): A Two- and Three-Dimensional Analysis." Animals 15, no. 14 (2025): 2006. https://doi.org/10.3390/ani15142006.

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Global warming is driving significant changes in aquatic ecosystems, where temperature fluctuations influence biological processes across multiple levels of organisation. As ectothermic organisms, fish are particularly susceptible, with even minor thermal shifts affecting their metabolism, behaviour, and overall fitness. Understanding these responses is essential for evaluating the ecological and evolutionary consequences of climate change. This study investigates the effects of acute (4-day) and chronic (21-day) exposure to three temperature regimes—18 °C (low), 26 °C (control), and 34 °C (hi
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33

Rafati, Yashar, Zhen Cheng, Xiao Yu, Tian-Jian Hsu, and Joseph Calantoni. "MODELING COARSE SAND TRANSPORT UNDER SKEWED OSCILLATORY FLOW USING A CFD-DEM APPROACH." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 18. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.sediment.18.

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Onshore/offshore sediment transport in the nearshore is an important mechanism driving the evolution of coastal morphology. The so-called sheet flow is a transport regime, in which the flow forces are intense such that a large amount of transport occurs in a concentrated layer near the bed. Onshore transport is often associated with flow skewness/asymmetry. In the nearshore zone, due to the bottom slope and wave shoaling, the wave velocity tends be onshore skewed before breaking in the surf zone. For breaking waves, the velocity asymmetry (or acceleration skewness) may also play a key role in
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Zanden, Joep van der, Dominic A. Van der A, Tom O'Donoghue, et al. "SUSPENDED AND BEDLOAD TRANSPORT IN THE SURF ZONE: IMPLICATIONS FOR SAND TRANSPORT MODELS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 35 (June 23, 2017): 30. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.sediment.30.

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This paper presents results obtained during a large-scale wave flume experiment focused at measuring hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes in the wave breaking region. The experiment involved monochromatic plunging breaking waves over a mobile bed barred profile consisting of D50 = 0.24 mm sand. Vertical profiles of velocity, turbulence, sand concentration and sand fluxes were measured at 12 cross-shore locations, covering the shoaling region up to the inner surf zone. Particularly high-resolution profiles were obtained near the bed within the wave bottom boundary layer, using an acou
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35

Evans, F. Osaisai. "A Simple Model of Sediment Transport in the Nearshore Zone." Asian Research Journal of Mathematics 5, no. 1 (2017): 1–11. https://doi.org/10.9734/ARJOM/2017/34052.

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In this paper we examine a simple model of sediment transport, induced by the breaking waves in the surf zone. Essentially the bottom is allowed to move in response to the divergence of a sediment flux, in turn determined by the breaking waves. The effect of this extra term on the previous solutions for set-up, longshore currents and rip currents is then determined. It is found that the solutions for the mean flow are now unsteady on a slow timescale determined by a certain sediment transport parameter. There is a change in beach slope in the rip currents controlled by the sediment transport.
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Al-Salem, K., and A. Al-Rashed. "Modeling of Sediment Transport Using Wave Height action in Fialaka Marina." IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science 958, no. 1 (2021): 012023. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/958/1/012023.

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Abstract Failaka Island is the second-largest and one of the most important islands of Kuwait from the point of view of tourism located in the north Arabian Gulf. It has a marina constructed in 1979 and managed by the Ministry of Communication (MOC) and a tourism enterprise, and is widely used for its ferry landing facility. The coastal waters around Failaka are turbid and current velocities tend to be as high as ~0.5 m/s during spring tide. The marina basin, with axial plan view dimensions of about 285 m by 260 m experiences shoaling of naturally flocculated fine (cohesive) sediment and coars
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37

Fassieh, K. M., O. Fahmy, and M. A. Zaki. "Numerical Modeling of Irregular Water Wave Transformation." International Journal of Oceanography 2014 (August 12, 2014): 1–8. http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2014/563467.

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Propagation of irregular water wave from deep water to a shoreline has been numerically modeled. Linear and irregular waves are considered. Model equations govern effects of shoaling, refraction, and diffraction over a varying bathymetry. The model requires the input of the incoming directional random sea at the offshore boundary. Statistical energy dissipation model is incorporated to predict realistically energy losses due to wave breaking in surf zone. Unlike most of the previous models, this model can predict wave transformation in surf zone where energy dissipation and bottom friction mus
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38

Landing, Ed, Stephen R. Westrop, and Linda Van Aller Hernick. "Uppermost Cambrian-lower Ordovician faunas and Laurentian platform sequence stratigraphy, eastern New York and Vermont." Journal of Paleontology 77, no. 1 (2003): 78–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022336000043444.

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The Cambrian–Ordovician boundary is a type 1 depositional sequence boundary with dramatic local erosional incision in restricted marine facies on the easternmost New York Promontory. The systemic boundary is bracketed below by Late Cambrian, upper Cordylodus proavus Zone (s.s). conodonts from carbonates of the upper Little Falls Formation (=Whitehall Formation, abandoned). Presumed Lower Ordovician ellesmeraceratoid cephalopods from the upper Little Falls are uppermost Cambrian and among the oldest known in North America. The overlying deepening–shoaling cycle of the Tribes Hill Formation (=Cu
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Oades, Elora M., Ryan P. Mulligan, and Margaret L. Palmsten. "APPLICATION OF A NUMERICAL MODEL AND BATHYMETRIC INVERSION ALGORITHMS TO ENHANCE UNDERSTANDING OF NEARSHORE CHANGE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 37 (September 1, 2023): 55. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.sediment.55.

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During extreme wave events, shoaling occurs farther from shore, extending the surf zone width and intensifying wave breaking (Thornton and Guza, 1983; Mulligan and Hanson, 2016). Remote sensing using digital cameras is an inexpensive way to gather continuous observations of the surf zone and calculate water depths based on phase speed. This study investigates the robustness of the newly released version of cBathy (Holman et al., 2013; Holman and Bergsma, 2021), a bathymetric inversion algorithm. cBathy is employed in moderate to energetic wave conditions using synthetic water level data genera
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40

Santoso, Karina, I. Dewa Nyoman Nurweda Putra, and I. Gusti Bagus Sila Dharma. "Studi Hindcasting Dalam Menentukan Karakteristik Gelombang dan Klasifikasi Zona Surf Di Pantai Uluwatu, Bali." Journal of Marine and Aquatic Sciences 5, no. 1 (2018): 119. http://dx.doi.org/10.24843/jmas.2019.v05.i01.p15.

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Bali is one of the islands where there are many surf zones with various characteristics. In addition, Bali is also a heaven with a classy wave for the surfers of the world. One of the most challenging places to surf in Bali is Uluwatu Beach. Uluwatu Beach is ranked the 3rd best surf spot in the world version of CNN Travel in 2012. Wind causes sea waves, therefore wind data can be used to estimate the height and direction of the waves. Wave Hindcasting with Sverdrup, Munk and Bretschneider (SMB) method is calculated based on wind data for 10 years (2001 - 2010) from BMKG Ngurah Rai Station - De
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41

Ehrenberg, Stephen N., Stephen W. Lokier, Liu Yaxin, and Rulin Chen. "Depositional Cycles in a Lower Cretaceous Limestone Reservoir, Onshore Abu Dhabi, U.A.E." Journal of Sedimentary Research 88, no. 7 (2018): 753–76. http://dx.doi.org/10.2110/jsr.2018.41.

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AbstractThe upper reservoir zone of the Lower Cretaceous Kharaib Formation (46–54 m thick in the studied wells) is regarded as the upper portion of a third-order depositional sequence comprising higher-order cycles. Whereas the third-order sequence interpretation is clearly supported by the upward-shoaling trend of the reservoir zone, relationships defining the component cycles have not previously been documented and are the focus of the present study. Core descriptions from four wells in a single oilfield reveal little evidence of facies changes or trends of facies patterns indicative of high
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42

Caballero, Isabel, and Richard Stumpf. "Towards Routine Mapping of Shallow Bathymetry in Environments with Variable Turbidity: Contribution of Sentinel-2A/B Satellites Mission." Remote Sensing 12, no. 3 (2020): 451. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/rs12030451.

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Satellite-Derived Bathymetry (SDB) has significant potential to enhance our knowledge of Earth’s coastal regions. However, SDB still has limitations when applied to the turbid, but optically shallow, nearshore regions that encompass large areas of the world’s coastal zone. Turbid water produces false shoaling in the imagery, constraining SDB for its routine application. This paper provides a framework that enables us to derive valid SDB over moderately turbid environments by using the high revisit time (5-day) of the Sentinel-2A/B twin mission from the Copernicus programme. The proposed method
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43

Lim, Gabriel, Ravindra Jayaratne, and Tomoya Shibayama. "NEW SUSPENDED SAND CONCENTRATION MODEL FOR BREAKING WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36v (December 28, 2020): 32. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.sediment.32.

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Process-based morphodynamic modelling suites (as well as other process-based models) are often considered to be inefficient and unsuitable for simulating medium- to long-term morphodynamics due to the various theoretical (e.g. robustness of sediment transport models) and practical (e.g. computational costs) limitations. In particular, a lack of knowledge of sediment transport processes and how they relate to hydrodynamics makes the application of short-term models to long-term coastal evolution challenging. Even the state-of-the-art coastal area modelling suites (such as Delft3D and MIKE21) co
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44

Yamaguchi, Masataka. "A NUMERICAL MODEL OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS BASED ON A FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVE THEORY." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 64. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.64.

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A numerical model of wave-Induced nearshore currents taking into account the finite amplitude effect is developed, with a cnoidal wave theory used for the estimation of wave characteristics. The model is applied to the computation of wave transformation and nearshore currents on uniformly sloping beaches and on two-dimensional model topographies. The comparison with the results obtained by a linear model shows that wave nonlinearity has a strong influence on wave transformation in shoaling water and in the surf zone and on the strength of nearshore circulation, but that it does not have much e
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RING, UWE, HILDE L. SCHWARTZ, TIMOTHY G. BROMAGE, and CHARLES SANAANE. "Kinematic and sedimentological evolution of the Manyara Rift in northern Tanzania, East Africa." Geological Magazine 142, no. 4 (2005): 355–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0016756805000841.

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We describe the stratigraphical/sedimentological and structural evolution of the Manyara Rift in the Tanzania Divergence Zone, East Africa. The rift-related Manyara Beds on the shoaling side of the Manyara Rift were deposited between <1.7 and 0.4 Ma and can be separated into a lacustrine lower member and a fluvial upper member. The transition from lacustrine to fluvial sedimentation at ∼ 0.7 Ma appears to be related to a southward shift of major rift faulting. Fault geometry and the kinematics of the faults are consistent with major faulting during NE/E-directed extension. There is also evi
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Wang, Jun, Bo Yang, Bingchen Liang, Zai-Jin You, Zhenlu Wang, and Zhaowei Wang. "Photogrammetric Investigation of Storm-Induced Erosion Process on Sandy Beach Profile in Medium-Scale Flume." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 12, no. 3 (2024): 518. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse12030518.

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In this study, laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the influence of changes in storm wave height and water level on beach response in a medium-scale wave flume. A schematic storm was simulated (rising, apex, and waning phases). A non-intrusive photogrammetric method was used to collect high-resolution and synchronous data regarding the free surface water elevation and bed level, from which shoreline location, sandbar position, cross-shore sediment transport rates, and nonlinear wave parameters were derived. The cross-shore sediment transport was in agreement with previous labo
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Biswal, Shantajhara, Kapesa Lokho, Uma Kant Shukla, Kezhakielie Whiso, and Kuldeep Prakash. "Eocene larger foraminiferal biostratigraphy, depositional history and paleogeography of the Sylhet Limestone of the Mikir Hills of Assam, NE India: Implications for an Open Tethys." Micropaleontology 67, no. 5 (2021): 427–46. http://dx.doi.org/10.47894/mpal.67.5.01.

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This study presents results of integrated larger foraminiferal biostratigraphy, lithofacies and stable carbon isotope (13 C org) analysis carried out in the Sylhet Limestone of Dillai Parbat Limestone Mine succession, Karbi Anglong District, Assam. Larger foraminiferal assemblages assign a middle Eocene age to the studied succession of Sylhet Limestone. The Shallow Benthic Zone (SBZ) 13 and SBZ 16-18 and a barren interval in between is recognized in the studied part of the Sylhet Limestone. The SBZ 13 Zone (early Lutetian) is represented by fossiliferous limestone at the base of the section an
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48

Lastiri, Ximun, Stéphane Abadie, Philippe Maron, et al. "Wave Energy Assessment in the South Aquitaine Nearshore Zone from a 44-Year Hindcast." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 8, no. 3 (2020): 199. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse8030199.

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Wave resource assessment is the first step toward the installation of a wave energy converter (WEC). To support initiatives for wave energy development in the southwest of France, a coastal wave database is built from a 44-year hindcast simulation with the spectral wave model SWAN (Simulating WAve Nearshore) run on a high-resolution unstructured grid. The simulation includes shallow-water processes such as refraction, shoaling, and breaking. The model is validated against a five-year coastal wave buoy recording. The study shows that most of the resource is provided by sea states with wave heig
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Velkey, Andrew, Kaitlyn Kinslow, Megan Bowers, Ethan Hoffman, Jamie Martin, and Bandhavi Surisetty. "Zebrafish (Danio rerio) Prefer Undisturbed Shoals over Shoals Exposed to the Synthetic Alarm Substance Hypoxanthine-3N-oxide (C5H4N4O2)." Biology 14, no. 3 (2025): 233. https://doi.org/10.3390/biology14030233.

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As an anti-predation behavior, shoaling enhances survival among prey species by reducing individual predation risk through mechanisms like the dilution effect and collective vigilance. Zebrafish—a highly social and genetically tractable species—are valuable for studying these behaviors. The present study examined zebrafish’s social preferences in a 3-chamber open-tank free-swim task, assessing whether visual cues alone could distinguish between an intact and an alarmed shoal exposed to the synthetic alarm substance H3NO. Subjects were allowed to freely associate with either shoal while their b
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50

Félix-Hackradt, Fabiana C., Henry L. Spach, Pietro S. Moro, et al. "Diel and tidal variation in surf zone fish assemblages of a sheltered beach in southern Brazil." Latin American Journal of Aquatic Research 38, no. 3 (2011): 447–60. http://dx.doi.org/10.3856/vol38-issue3-fulltext-9.

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Diel and tidal variations of fish assemblages were assessed at Pontal beach, southern Brazil, using a seine net. Species richness was greater at night, whereas fish number, weight, and richness (community indicators) were all influenced by the tidal state. Samples from rising tides were more representative, probably due to onshore fish movements for feeding purposes. However, lower catches were associated with high tides, mainly through net avoidance, indicating that sampling in these conditions is not highly informative. Clupeoids exhibited greater variation in a 24 h period, and the night oc
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