Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Sustainable fashion brand'

Background: The current fashion industry is characterised by its fast-moving nature. Its change over the past decades from two to numerous collections per year has contributed to a take-make-dispose society. This largely contributes to environmental and social sustainability issues as well as the use of non-renewable materials waste. Simultaneously, it is one of the largest employers worldwide. Due to the global dispersion of supply chains actors, sustainable fashion brands need to tackle country specific regulations and overall differences in conceptions of e.g. sustainability. Sustainable fashion brands find themselves in numerous conflicts such as profit and growth versus environmental and social sustainability, trendiness versus consciousness, or linear business models versus circular business models. Purpose: This thesis provides a systematic literature review of a selection among peer-reviewed articles on sustainable fashion brands. The main focus is on the paradox of sustainable fashion brands in academic research. This study aims at gaining a basis for research in the perspective of sustainable retail brands to explore manners in which they can deal with the paradox between being financially viable and acting sustainably. Method: To support the objective of this study, the articles selected for data analysis were collected by using a systematic literature review as research and analytical method. Within the thesis, a narrative analysis was applied to examine the chosen articles. Results: The results gathered through the systematic review show a significant influence on sustainable fashion brands from two major stakeholders: supplier and consumer. Especially the consumers are regarded as most influential since their demand determines whether sustainable fashion is being adopted more widely into the market. Currently consumers lack knowledge of environmental and social concerns related with fashion. Simultaneously, the suppliers lack understanding of such concerns due to cultural and economic differences. Therefore, retailers should educate both consumers and suppliers on relevant issues. This can further enhance transparency which in turn generates more trust between all parties. Moreover, innovative business models can help tackle consumption related sustainability issues in that they offer the extended use of clothing. Conclusion: Sustainable fashion brands have to handle several conflicts related to their market position and existence. In order to create sustainable fashion offerings, they require viable financial means. Economic growth as it is known today contradicts the sustainability of the environment and society. Sustainable fashion brands need to find a proper balance between the two as it is the only way to tackle this paradox. In addition, there is a significant gap in the research on economic sustainability in relation to sustainable fashion brands.

Luxury fashion brands seem to contradict sustainability. The values of sustainability are commonly associated with terms such as sharing, collaboration, austerity, and collective thinking. Luxury, however, is associated with excess, self-indulgence, delight and decadence (Kapferer & Bastien, 2012:360). Further paradoxes exist where the apparel of the luxury consumer is often manufactured by labourers in low wage-paying producing countries. High wastage is evident in the seasonality of the fashion industry. However, work opportunities are created by the fickleness of the fashion industry and the constant need to own the most current designs (Black, 2012:8). Owing to the high visibility of luxury fashion and the contractions between one -- on the one hand -- supplying income to families by way of employment and -- on the other hand -- not complying to sustainable international human resource practices, fashion brands are the focus of many non-governmental organisations (NGOs) that use the mass media to expose any social wrongdoing in the industry. Luxury fashion brands are constantly in the spotlight, as highlighted in articles posted by the Clean Clothes campaign, a custodian for employees in the global garment industries; Greenpeace; and People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA). An example of such practices was when Greenpeace reported in 2009 that shoe brands such as Timberland and Clarks were manufactured from leather sourced from the hides of cattle in illegally deforested areas in Brazil. This provided negative publicity for these luxury shoe brands as well as for the Brazilian government that was financing this project (Vurro, Russo & Perrini, 2009:609). The luxury fashion brand industry, as well as the consumers of luxury fashion labels, are accused -- often only for the sake of sensationalism -- of living in the lap of luxury whilst maintaining a supply chain that is riddled with unsustainable practices. The social structure and hierarchy of patrons within a community have, since the Middle Ages, been signalled by the clothes they wore. Social class was a birthright. Today, sporting luxury brands continues to serve as status symbols, but unlike mediaeval times, it is not limited to people with a high social standing at birth as one can work for status, and purchase the items because one deserves them. (Han, Nunes, & Drèze, 2010:15). In 2009, during the International Herald Tribune (IHT) Suzy Menkes, the fashion editor at The Herald, called for “luxury”’ and “fashion” to be separated. Luxury prides itself in its handcrafted garments manufactured by respected tradesmen in the industry. The outcome is that the manufactured goods are made to last a lifetime (Gibson, 2012:23).

En el presente trabajo de investigación, tiene como propósito de medir la relación de las dimensiones del Brand Equity (Brand Awareness, Brand Loyalty, Perceived Quality, Brand Associations) con la decisión de compra en empresas de moda sostenible en Lima Metropolitana. Ello responde a la aparición de una nueva corriente, donde los consumidores están optando por organizaciones de moda que se enfocan en el bienestar del medio ambiente. Con respecto a la metodología de investigación, fue de carácter mixto, donde se hizo uso de herramientas tanto cualitativas como cuantitativas. Por un lado, en el estudio cualitativo, se realizaron cuatro entrevistas a expertos en el sector de moda sostenible, seis entrevistas al público objetivo y, por último, un grupo focal. Por otro lado, con la finalidad de contrastar la información brindada por los expertos, se hizo uso de la investigación cuantitativa para darle profundidad y representatividad a la data recolectada. Para ello, se empleó una muestra de 293 usuarias de prendas de vestir de moda sostenible seleccionadas por un muestreo no probabilístico, a las cuales fueron encuestadas por un cuestionario de 37 preguntas. Con todo lo mencionado, se logró concluir que las dimensiones Brand Loyalty y Brand Associations tienen una mayor significancia con respecto a la decisión de compra.
The purpose of this research is to measure the relationship between the dimensions of Brand Equity (Brand Awareness, Brand Loyalty, Perceived Quality, Brand Associations) with the purchase decision in sustainable fashion companies in Lima. This responds to the emergence of a new trend, where consumers are opting for fashion organizations that focus on the well-being of the environment. Regarding the research methodology, which was a mixed nature, where both qualitative and quantitative tools were used. In one hand, the qualitative study, four interviews were conducted with experts in the sustainable fashion sector, six interviews of the target audience and, finally, one focus group. On the other hand, in order to contrast the information provided by the experts, quantitative research was used to give a deeper and representative view on the collected data. For this, we took a sample of 293 users of sustainable fashion clothing selected by a non-probability sample, and they were surveyed by forum of 37 questions. We concluded that the dimensions of brand loyalty and brand associations are have greater importance with respect of the purchase decision.
Trabajo de investigación

Mestrado em Marketing
A integração da sustentabilidade desde a produção de vestuário até ao seu fornecimento é cada vez mais valorizada pelo consumidor que está mais consciente dos impactos negativos associados à indústria da moda. Juntamente com a pressão de ONGs, designers e media, várias marcas de fast fashion começaram a adotar práticas mais sustentáveis, sendo que uma das estratégias escolhidas foi a introdução de extensões de linha sustentáveis. Como tal, torna-se relevante perceber qual o seu impacto na imagem de marca. Neste sentido, o presente estudo visa uma melhor compreensão da influência de linhas sustentáveis na imagem de marca de marcas de fast fashion. A investigação é de natureza explanatória, utiliza um tipo de estudo mono-método quantitativo e a técnica de amostragem não probabilística por conveniência. Os dados foram recolhidos através de um inquérito com base num questionário online, num horizonte temporal cross-sectional, sendo posteriormente analisados através de técnicas estatísticas no IBM SPSS Statistics 25. No total, obtiveram-se 619 respostas válidas. Segundo os resultados obtidos, as marcas de fast fashion, além de possuírem uma imagem de marca forte, devem introduzir linhas sustentáveis com uma imagem semelhante aos seus produtos convencionais, para que estas sejam bem-sucedidas e influenciem positivamente a imagem de marca. Ao nível académico, a dissertação contribui para o desenvolvimento teórico de um tema bastante atual, porém pouco investigado. Ao nível prático, visa auxiliar marcas de fast fashion no desenvolvimento de estratégias associadas à introdução de uma extensão de linha sustentável.
The integration of sustainability from the production of clothing to its supply is increasingly valued by consumers who are more aware of the negative impacts associated with the fashion industry. Along with the pressure from NGOs, designers and the media, several fast fashion brands have started to adopt more sustainable practices, being that one of the strategies chosen was the introduction of sustainable line extensions. Hence, it becomes relevant to understand its real impact on brand image. In this sense, the present study aims at a better understanding of the influence of sustainable lines in the brand image of fast fashion brands. This explanatory research uses a quantitative mono-method study and a non-probabilistic convenience sampling technique. The data was collected through an online questionnaire on a cross-sectional time horizon and analysed with statistical techniques in IBM SPSS Statistics 25. A total of 619 valid responses were collected. According to the results obtained, in addition to having a strong brand image, fast fashion brands should introduce sustainable lines with an image similar to their conventional products in order for these lines to be successful and positively influence the brand image. At the academic level, the study contributes to the theoretical development of a topic that, although current, is little explored. At a practical level, it aims to assist fast fashion brands in developing strategies associated with the introduction of a sustainable line extension.
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion

Corporate Social Responsibility, CSR, kan förklaras som ett företags frivilliga samhällsansvar, där grunden för ett lyckat arbete handlar om att finna balans mellan ekonomiskt, miljömässigt och socialt ansvarstagande. Företagen ska inte bara fokusera på dess lönsamhet, utan också bidra till etisk social och miljömässig förbättring, faktorer som idag har blivit en självklarhet för att bidra till en hållbar utveckling men också för att bygga, stärka och bevara varumärket. Ett varumärke anses ofta vara ett företags främsta tillgång vilket också kan skapa värde för ett företag och på så sätt ses som en konkurrensfördel. Företagets varumärkesimage är i sin tur kundens uppfattning om varumärket och är något kunden skapar på en egen hand. En varierande bild av företaget kan då uppstå, eftersom individer har olika uppfattningar om ett varumärke.Gina Tricot är det företag som ligger i fokus för studien då vi anser att de är ett välkänt varumärke inom fast fashion branschen. Fast fashion är en affärsstrategi vars mål är att reducera ledtiderna från idé till butik och strategin syftar till att tillfredsställa kundernas behov av de senaste trenderna på mycket kort tid.Syftet med rapporten är att få en fördjupad förståelse för vad CSR innebär men också hur CSR kan bidra med positiva effekter och gynna Gina Tricots varumärke och dess varumärkesimage. Rapporten har både kvalitativa och kvantitativa utformningar, där datainsamling har skett genom intervjuer med medarbetare på Gina Tricot och en marknadsundersökning utformad som en enkät till tänkbara konsumenter. Den insamlade empirin har analyserats utifrån de litterära och elektroniska källorna vi använts oss av samt vetenskapliga artiklar. Källorna har behandlat CSR, kundbeteende, varumärke, varumärkesimage och fast fashion branschen. Vi kan utifrån resultatet urskilja en något motsägelsefull ställning till hållbarhet och miljömedvetenhet. Att intresset och den rätta attityden finns framkommer i resultatet, men då ingen av respondenterna anser att man medvetet väljer etiskt och ekologiskt tillverkade plagg, framkommer det även att det finns en problematik och ett glapp mellan attityd och handling. Ytterligare en slutsats vi kan dra utifrån empirin är att CSR kan ge både positiva och negativa effekter på ett företag, där det är viktigt för ett företag att se CSR som ett strategiskt tillbehör till den övriga affärsverksamheten och inte som en genväg till framgång. För att Gina Tricots CSR-arbete ska kunna stärka deras varumärkesimage, krävs både ett välutarbetat CSR arbete men också att Gina Tricot är medvetna om kundernas upplevda varumärkesimage.Corporate Social Responsibility, CSR, can be explained as a company´s willingness to contribute in society where the foundations for a successful job is about finding the balance between economic, environmental and social responsibility. Companies must not only focus on its profitability, but also contribute to ethical social and environmental improvement, factors which has become second nature to contribute to sustainable development but also to build, strengthen and maintain the brand. A trademark is often considered a company's greatest asset, which can also create value for a company and thus be seen as a competitive advantage. The company's brand image is the customer's perception of the brand and is something the customer creates on his own. A different picture of the company may then occur because individuals have different perceptions about a brand.Gina Tricot is the company that is the focus of this study since we believe that they are a well-known brand within the fast fashion industry. Fast fashion is a business strategy that aims to reduce lead times from concept to store and a strategy aimed at satisfying customer needs for the latest trends in a very short time.The purpose of this report is to gain a deeper understanding of what CSR means but also how CSR can contribute to a positive impact and benefit the Gina Tricots brand. The report has both a qualitative and quantitative design where data collection was done through interviews with employees at Gina Tricot and a market research designed as a survey for potential consumers. The collected empirical data is analyzed from literature, scientific articles and electronic sources. The sources have dealt with CSR, customer behavior, brand, brand image and the fashion industry.We can discern from the results somewhat contradictory position on sustainability and environmental awareness. That the interest and the right attitude is evident in the results, but none of the respondents consider to deliberately choose ethically and ecologically produced clothing, it becomes clear that there is a problem and a gap between attitude and action. Yet another conclusion we can draw from the empirical data is that CSR can give both positive and negative effects on a company, where it is important for a company to see CSR as a strategic tool to the rest of the business and not as a shortcut to success. If Gina Tricots CSR work is to strengthen their brand image, it requires both a well-defined CSR work but also that Gina Tricot is aware of customers' perceived brand image.
Program: Butikschefsutbildningen

The fashion industry is beginning to understand the need to move strategically towards sustainability. Yet there appears at present little coordination between global fashion brands and their supply chains to pursue strategic sustainable development and ensure the long term resilience of their business. We asked: What does a fashion brand need to know about its first tier suppliers in China in order to form a strategy towards sustainability? We utilised a scientific, principle-based definition of sustainability and framework to identify the underlying challenges faced by two Chinese garment factories in moving strategically towards sustainability. The challenges enabled us to inform three strategic guidelines that a fashion brand should consider when working with its supply chain towards sustainability. Research draws on literature, interviews among industry experts, interviews with a major fashion brand, and on-site workshops with two of its first-tier garment factories in China. The results of our research indicate: 1) the specific challenges factories face are commonly associated with internal corporate culture, the fashion brand’s directives, and the regulatory environment in China; 2) the fashion brand should aim to broaden its purchasing priorities, generate increased collaboration with suppliers and build awareness towards empowerment and ownership of sustainability and associated strategies and actions.

Purpose – The purpose of this study is to explore how environmentally sustainable efforts, in terms of circular economy (CE) initiatives, are affecting the customer-based brand equity (CBBE) of fast fashion brands. By considering the attitudes of Generation Z, fashion companies can build brands that respond to the environmental requirements of future decision-makers. Therefore, the following research questions are derived: What are Generation Z’s self-disclosed perceptions of fast fashion brands conducting circular economy initiatives? and How do the perceptions of Generation Z regarding circular economy initiatives impact the CBBE of fast fashion brands?  Method – This master thesis is an exploratory study with an inductive approach. In total, 12 qualitative interviews are conducted, consisting of consumers of fast fashion within Generation Z and currently living in Sweden. The interviews follow a semi-structured approach and in order to analyze the empirical findings, a thematic analysis was executed.  Findings – The main findings of this study consist of three overarching themes in terms of Generation Z’s perceptions towards fast fashion brands conducting CE initiatives and its impact on CBBE. The emerging perceptions describe different segments within Generation Z, which have been defined as Positive: Creates Value, Negative: Hypocritical, and Indifferent: Not relevant. Moreover, the results show that a positive perception towards CE initiatives can strengthen the CBBE of fast fashion brands. In contrast, a negative perception causes a small impact on CBBE and may even weaken the brand, whereas an indifferent perception towards CE initiatives has no noticeable impact on the CBBE.  Theoretical and practical contributions – The study provides insights into Generation Z's different perceptions regarding CE initiatives and how macro-environmental factors can impact the brand equity of fast fashion brands and consumer perception of these brands. The main findings can assist brand managers to address the different consumer segments and their needs by successfully implementing sustainability activities into the business operations of fast fashion brands.

Syfte: Studiens huvudsyfte är att undersöka hur företag kan inkludera slutkonsumenten i produktutvecklingen inom den textila värdekedjan och hur CRM kan förbättra detta. Metod: Arbetet har en deduktiv ansats och både en kvantitativ och kvalitativ forskningsmetod har använts. Datainsamlingen har skett genom djupintervjuer och enkätundersökning. Resultat och Slutsats: Studien har undersökt hur villiga slutkonsumenter är att vara med och påverka den textila produktutvecklingen till det bättre genom bidragande av egna idéer. Efter datainsamling, djupintervjuer och enkätundersökning visar studien att användning av CRM- villkor är nödvändigt att implementera för att textila aktörer ska fortsätta vara aktuella på marknaden.
Purpose: The main purpose of this study is to investigate how the customer influences the product development within the textile value chain and whether CRM can improve this. Method: The research approach of this thesis is deductive and both a quantitative and a qualitative research have been conducted. Data has been collected through a survey and in-depth interviews. Results and conclusions: The study has examined how willing consumers are to participate and influence the textile product development through their own ideas. After data collection, in-depth interviews and questionnaire surveys, the study shows that the use of CRM- conditions are necessary to implement for textile operators to remain up-to-date in the market

Entre el 2001 y el 2017, el Perú ha perdido 2 millones 130 mil 122 hectáreas de bosque debido a las prácticas de explotación de recursos (MAAP, 2017). Según el informe de Lima cómo vamos (2011), el 47.8% de limeños consideraron a la contaminación ambiental como un problema sumamente importante. La creciente toma de conciencia ambiental ha permitido el ingreso a más de 170 Pymes de moda ecológica que impulsan mediante sus productos contrarrestar el impacto negativo al medio ambiente (Economía verde, 2019). Una de ellas es Insecta que ha despertado el interés de usuarios de la red social de Instagram hacia el consumo de sus productos de elaborados de fibras de piña. El presente trabajo de investigación tiene como objetivo “ Demostrar si existe una valorización de importancia en el consumidor limeño en relación a la estrategia de comunicación de la marca Insecta compartida en Instagram como marca ecológica”. Como menciona Arseculeratne y Yazdanifard (2014) una marca ecológica debe reflejar su proceso productivo ecoamigable. Y para tener éxito comercial como ecológicos debe comunicarlo de manera efectiva” (Pickett et al., 1995). Los resultados de la investigación resaltan el poco conocimiento acerca de los procesos del producto de la marca Insecta que difunde a través de su intención medioambiental. Teniendo en cuenta que Instagram es una de las redes con gran audiencia joven, Insecta no logra transmitir un aspecto emocional hacia los consumidores limeños.
In period of 2001 and 2017, Peru lost 2 million 130 thousand 122 hectares of forest due to resource exploitation practices (MAAP, 2017). According to Lima's how we are going (2011), 47.8% of limeños considered environmental pollution to be a very important problem. The growing awareness of the environment has allowed the entry of more than 170 small and medium business of ecological fashion that promote through their products to counteract the negative impact on the environment (Economía verde, 2019). One of them is Insecta that has aroused the interest of users of the social network of Instagram towards the consumption of its products made of pineapple fibers. This research work aims to "Demonstrate whether there is an appreciation of importance in consumers in relation to the communication strategy of the Insecta brand shared on Instagram as an ecological brand". As Arseculeratne and Yazdanifard (2014) mentions, an ecological brand must reflect its eco-friendly production process. And to be commercially successful as ecological, it must be communicated effectively ”(Pickett et al., 1995). The research results are that people who buy his products and interact in his social media, they don’t know about product processes. Taking into account that Instagram is one of the networks with a large young audience, Insecta fails to convey an emotional aspect on Instagram.
Trabajo de investigación

Abstract  Background: The fashion industry in its current state operates in conditions that are considered unsustainable. In order to appeal to the growing environmental and ethical concern of consumers, fashion brands have started to employ strategies of green marketing, often focusing on clothes marketed as consisting of sustainable or eco-friendly fabrics. Meanwhile, fully sustainable fashion brands have emerged, where sustainability values are carried throughout all organisational practices.  Purpose: The purpose of this study is to explore how sustainable fashion brands market themselves and which types of consumers the current strategies attract. It aims to lay out an initial foundation for further research carried out in the future.  Method: A multi-case study of six sustainable fashion brands and an expert on sustainable fashion consumption was conducted under an interpretivist paradigm. A thematic analysis of the data received through semi-structured interviews provided an initial in-depth understanding of the phenomenon under consideration.  Conclusion: Sustainable fashion brands emphasized the importance of a holistic approach to conducting business under sustainability values. This understanding expressed itself in direct implications for design and longevity of fashion garments and a coherent approach to communication and retailing of products utilizing storytelling and a criteria-based choice of retailers. Main consumer groups identified were sustainability-minded consumers, as well as design-interested ones in some cases.

Research Question: How can the concept of Greening Goliaths and Emerging Davids be applied to better understand the sustainabile transformation of the fashion industry?  Purpose: This paper sets out to analyze two approaches to sustainability within the fashion industry; A firm adopting CSR initiatives into their business strategy versus a sustainable brand. These approaches are explored within the framework of Greening Goliaths and Emerging Davids to recognize their contribution to the sustainable transformation of the fashion industry. Method: A qualitative approach to our case study was taken in which we analyze and measure the Swedish fast fashion company, H&M and an American eco-friendly fashion label, Reformation. A semi-formal phone interview with an expert on sustainability in the fashion industry gave us further knowledge of how the two approaches can be combined for the industry to become more sustainable. A model was developed that aided the analysis as well as the discussion of the empirical findings. Conclusion: Our conclusions found that the sustainable brand, Reformation can be categorized as an Emerging David and is in the Take-off stage. In order to gain a larger market share an contribute to the sustainable transformation of the industry Reformation will need to continue process innovation to lower their price point. H&M was initially categorized as a Greening Goliath however upon further analysis we believe they are shifting to become and Environmental David leading the sustainable transformation of the industry. In order for a sustainable transformation of the fashion industry there needs to be a co-evolution of both Greening Goliaths and Emerging Davids working together for a sustainable future.

The manner in which clothing is designed, produced and used is responsible for major negative impacts on the environment as well as major ethical and social issues on a global scale. The increased concern for sustainability issues in the industry is similarly argued to have led to transformations of the business context of apparel companies, that have been shown to increasingly incorporate sustainability in their corporate strategies. This thesis focuses on sustainability strategies of Swedish clothing brands operating in the global apparel and fashion industry, with the aim to explore the topic of sustainability in relation to the Swedish apparel industry. Through qualitative interviews with sustainability managers and consultants working within the industry, it explores the drivers for working with sustainability as well as main challenges for achieving sustainability within the apparel industry. The results show that the concept of sustainability is indeed highly complex and broad in regard to the design, production and use of clothes. Companies are influenced by many factors that drive change towards sustainability. The future of the apparel sector is believed to be increasingly affected by new ideas to produce and indeed also consume clothes that challenge the dominating linear system. In conclusion, the industry faces many challenges concerning sustainability, but the proactive approaches by apparel companies seem to create new opportunities for change. Also, the anticipated further increase in interest for sustainability in society and subsequently among consumers and other actors may stimulate further advancements of the strategic responses among apparel companies.

Background: The clothing industry is a significant contributor to Earth’s pollution, depletion, and exploitation. Businesses need to become sustainable, to find long-lasting solutions where economic, social, and environmental value is created. This has birthed a new form of leadership, sustainable leadership, that puts ethical behavior and the common good above the untrammeled pursuit of profit. Business leaders must transform the way they do business, which requires changes in leadership. Purpose: The purpose of this study is to, from a leadership perspective, describe and create an understanding of how Swedish fashion brands are changing their business to become sustainable and remain competitive, and of sustainable leadership. Specifically, by exploring how business leaders work with sustainability and the challenges they face. Method: This study follows a qualitative research method and an abductive approach. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with CEOs and sustainability managers. Secondary data was gathered from sustainability reports. Findings: The organizations have made changes to their business models. Business leaders face several challenges, such as issues of maintaining quality, consumer behavior discrepancy, lack of control over suppliers, and insufficient technology. Leaders were found to show practices of sustainable leadership to remain competitive and sustainable. Conclusion: This study concludes that organizations take different strategical approaches to remain sustainable and competitive. Business models Leaders must create long-lasting stakeholder relationships, a supportive company culture, set clear goals, and develop employees to be successful in sustainability work. New developments in recycling technology and increased consumer awareness are called for to further drive an increased sustainable development in the industry.

The increase of trading has created many environmental, ecological, social and ethical problems. The main concern across all industries is to create more sustainable, eco-friendly and ethical manufacturing processes. Only by influence consumer's purchasing behavior there might be the demand for eco-green products. The fashion and textile industry as one of the main contributor to the world's economy is one of the main environmental polluter (e.g.: soil, lakes, river and air). Recently, many young fashion designers started to offer eco-green fashion to the market. This new phenomenon might change the course of the world fashion industry. The goal of this research is to find out the real demand for eco-green products and its impacts on the traditional methods of fashion manufacturing. Three geographical areas where chosen to represent consumption side (US and EU (UK)) and manufacturing side (China). The specific fashion garment was chosen to demonstrate detailed analysis of the manufacturing processes and its new eco-green formula -- the denim jeans. The primary and secondary research approaches were chosen to cover the whole industrial view on this phenomenon. The outcome of the research showed that the major impact was on the general consumer's purchasing behavior and their life style. It is a new trend and concept that is reshaping the traditional fashion business models. Denim jeans industry leaders such as Levi's Strauss are in process of implementing eco-green, ethical and fair-trade factors into their long-term strategy.

In the light of fashion consumption, it is crucial to understand the ongoing changes within individuals’ consumption attitudes. The present dissertation aims to examine the role of brand and ethical positioning as positive drivers to consumers’ brand valuations and simultaneously to sustainable purchasing attitudes. Based on a review of the academic literature on marketing, ethics and sustainability, an experimental study design was developed. Here, the moderating effects of sustainable advertising claims on the relationship between brand type and brand evaluation attributes were assessed. Such attributes included visual, quality and ethical perceptions as well as demand measures assessing consumers’ likelihood of choice and willingness to pay for sneakers made from recycled materials. Results indicate that a brand type has a significant impact on consumers’ brand valuations, especially when a certain type of sustainable advertising claim is performed. Findings also suggest that brands’ ethical perception plays an important role as mediator between brand type and type of environmental advertising claims. Thereby, the present dissertation contributes to the literature in branding, ethics and sustainable consumption by providing a greater understanding of the drivers that lead consumers to make more sustainable fashion decisions as well as pointing out to new potential solutions to increase sustainable fashion consumption.
No contexto do consumo de moda, é crucial entender as mudanças em curso nas atitudes de consumo dos indivíduos. A presente dissertação pretende estudar o papel da marca e do posicionamento ético enquanto impulsionadores positivos para as avaliações do conceito de marca por parte dos consumidores e, simultaneamente, para atitudes de compra sustentáveis. Tendo por base uma revisão da literatura académica sobre marketing, ética e sustentabilidade, foi realizado um estudo experimental onde foram avaliados os efeitos moderadores das alegações de publicidade sustentável na relação entre os atributos de tipo de marca e avaliação de marca. Estes atributos incluíram perceções visuais, de qualidade e ética, bem como medidas de procura que avaliam a probabilidade de escolha dos consumidores e a disposição de pagar por sapatilhas feitas a partir de materiais reciclados. Os resultados indicam que o tipo de marca tem um impacto significativo nas avaliações de marca dos consumidores, especialmente quando um determinado tipo de afirmação sustentável é realizado. Os resultados também sugerem que a perceção ética das marcas desempenha um papel importante como mediador entre o tipo de marca e o tipo de afirmações de publicidade ambiental. Assim, o presente estudo contribui para a literatura em branding, ética e consumo sustentável, proporcionando uma maior compreensão dos motivos que levam os consumidores a tomarem decisões de moda mais sustentáveis, além de apontar para potenciais novas soluções para o aumento do consumo sustentável de moda.

Fast fashion retailers bring apparel products to market much more quickly than in traditional apparel retailing. Fast fashion retailers are able to respond quickly to both fashion trends and consumer demand. Yet the emphasis on speed has quickened the consumption of fast fashion apparel products, which are produced with low quality and thus have short product lifespans. Critics of fast fashion cite these negatives, combined with chemicals, water and energy used in production, among other issues, as detrimental to the environment. However, some fast fashion retailers have implemented sustainable options into their product offerings. This study analyzes consumers’ perceptions of a sustainable brand extension introduced by a fast fashion retailer. The research is divided into two studies. First, an exploratory study was conducted to assess consumer knowledge of sustainability and fast fashion and to uncover potential factors for the model of the second study. Findings show a low level of knowledge of the holistic principle of sustainability and specific adverse effects of the apparel industry and of the concept of fast fashion. Despite some skepticism, participants feel steps must be taken towards sustainability and that every effort helps. The second part of the research tested consumer perceptions of a potential sustainable line extension introduced by a specific fast fashion retailer. Following brand extension theory, study two tests the influence of brand knowledge and affect on both the perceptions of brand-cause fit and brand-extension fit and the influence of cause knowledge and involvement on the perceptions of fit between brand and cause. The influence of brand-extension fit and brand-cause fit on attitude toward the extension was also analyzed. An online self-administrated survey using the written scenario approach resulted in 598 responses. Findings show the influence of brand knowledge and affect on brand-extension fit and brand-cause fit and cause knowledge and involvement on cause-brand fit. Implications for retailers include leveraging consumers’ past knowledge and affect of the brand through marketing of the sustainable product. Overall the study shows that consumers do view sustainable products as fitting with fast fashion retailers, based on their previous knowledge and affect of the brand and cause.
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This paper studies effective communication of eco-fashion start-ups across different cultures and geographical regions. The focus lies on market potential of the niche market sustainable fashion, previous communication of former eco-fashion brands, the cultural diversity and desired brand-awareness to identify trends in sustainability. Using in-depth interviews with a sample of five (co-) founders of green start-ups from three different continents, this paper suggests, by applying grounded theory, a qualitative analysis, to communicate transparently, to include influencers, and to address local desires and self-esteem across cultures. Thereby communicating green fashion and at the same time, protecting the identity, coherence and appeal of the brand is the challenge in conversation with consumers. Sustainability is demanded worldwide, yet with different communication purposes, distinctiveness in the Western world and group cohesion in Latin America and Middle East. Consequently, this paper lays a foundation for the understanding of creating desire in sustainable fashion. Additionally, the potential of sustainable fashion is assessed to further motivate other fashion brands to produce responsibly in the future. Thus, this paper contributes to a more sustainable fashion industry.

Digital Influencers are taking advantage of social media rise to position themselves as effective brand communicators. Hence, brands are betting on Influencer Endorsement as a communication strategy, since it has been proved before how powerful that can be in shaping consumers’ choices. Additionally, the market for sustainable fashion brands is gaining strength due to the raising of social and environmental concerns. However, brands are facing the challenge of choosing the right Influencer to endorse them since not all fit the brand and the product. This research aims to understand the impact that a high-fit between the Influencer and the Cause, as opposed to low-fit, has on Purchase Intention and Brand Attitude towards conscious fashion brands. Moreover, this study explores how do these effects take place with Source Credibility, Source Attractiveness, Product Match-up, and Meaning Transfer being analyzed. An experimental design was implemented to test and compare the differences between high versus low Influencer-cause fit, through an online questionnaire, and 335 valid responses were collected. The main findings show that Influencer’s high-fit with the cause has a higher and significant effect on Purchase Intention and Brand Attitude. Moreover, Source Credibility, Source Attractiveness, and Meaning Transfer are positive and significantly correlated with Purchase Intention and Brand Attitude. Regarding Product Match-up, it is positive and significantly correlated with Purchase Intentions but not with Brand Attitude. Lastly, Source Attractiveness cannot be a possible explaining factor for Brand Attitude since it did not present a significantly higher effect on the high-fit scenario for this construct.
Devido ao crescimento das Redes Sociais, os Influenciadores Digitais ganharam voz para comunicarem eficazmente com os seguidores. Assim, as marcas estão a focar as suas estratégias em Influencer Endorsement, uma vez que já foi previamente comprovado o quão preponderantes são os Influenciadores nas escolhas dos consumidores. O mercado para marcas de roupa sustentáveis tem vindo a aumentar, dada a crescente preocupação social e ambiental. No entanto, o desafio prende-se com a escolha do Influenciador certo para as promover, dado que nem todos se adequam aos valores da marca ou do produto. Assim, o objetivo desta dissertação é entender o impacto que high-fit, versus low-fit, entre o Influenciador e a Causa tem na Intenção de Compra e Brand Attitude de marcas sustentáveis. Adicionalmente, é explorado de que modo estes efeitos ocorrem quando relacionados com Source Credibility, Source Attractiveness, Product Match-up e Meaning Transfer. Para tal, foi feita uma experiência para testar e comparar as diferenças entre high versus low Influencer-cause fit, através de um questionário online que contou com 335 respostas válidas. Os resultados mostram um efeito superior e significativo na Intenção de Compra e Brand Attitude, no cenário high-fit entre o Influenciador e a Causa, versus low-fit. Ademais, Source Credibility, Source Attractiveness e Meaning Transfer estão positiva e significativamente correlacionados com Intenção de Compra e Brand Attitude. Product Macth-up apresenta apenas uma correlação significativamente positiva com Intenção de Compra. Finalmente, Source Attractiveness não é um possível fator explicativo de Brand Attitude, pois não apresenta diferenças entre os dois cenários. Devido ao crescimento das Redes Sociais, os Influenciadores Digitais ganharam voz para comunicarem eficazmente com os seguidores. Assim, as marcas estão a focar as suas estratégias em Influencer Endorsement, uma vez que já foi previamente comprovado o quão preponderantes são os Influenciadores nas escolhas dos consumidores. O mercado para marcas de roupa sustentáveis tem vindo a aumentar, dada a crescente preocupação social e ambiental. No entanto, o desafio prende-se com a escolha do Influenciador certo para as promover, dado que nem todos se adequam aos valores da marca ou do produto. Assim, o objetivo desta dissertação é entender o impacto que high-fit, versus low-fit, entre o Influenciador e a Causa tem na Intenção de Compra e Brand Attitude de marcas sustentáveis. Adicionalmente, é explorado de que modo estes efeitos ocorrem quando relacionados com Source Credibility, Source Attractiveness, Product Match-up e Meaning Transfer. Para tal, foi feita uma experiência para testar e comparar as diferenças entre high versus low Influencer-cause fit, através de um questionário online que contou com 335 respostas válidas. Os resultados mostram um efeito superior e significativo na Intenção de Compra e Brand Attitude, no cenário high-fit entre o Influenciador e a Causa, versus low-fit. Ademais, Source Credibility, Source Attractiveness e Meaning Transfer estão positiva e significativamente correlacionados com Intenção de Compra e Brand Attitude. Product Macth-up apresenta apenas uma correlação significativamente positiva com Intenção de Compra. Finalmente, Source Attractiveness não é um possível fator explicativo de Brand Attitude, pois não apresenta diferenças entre os dois cenários.

The fast-fashion industry has been criticized along the years for its lack of environmental and social ethics. In this frame we find H&M, the world’s second largest fashion retailer. The Swedish fast-fashion retailer has set its goal towards making fashion sustainable and has launched in 2011 its sustainable clothing line “Conscious”. The present dissertation aims to discover the potential of sustainable fashion in changing consumers’ attitude towards the brand. For this matter, literature concerning important theories about sustainability, consumer reaction towards sustainable products, sustainable marketing and brand attitude will be discussed. This literature review will be followed by a case study, focused on H&M’s sustainable goals and its “Conscious” line. Market research, composed by an online survey, will support the case study in order to, later, provide with recommendations and teaching notes. The results of this study supports that the “Conscious” line has the power to change consumer attitude towards H&M. It was confirmed that exposure to facts about the sustainable activities of a brand has a positive impact and triggers a spill over effect to unrelated areas. After displaying information about “Conscious”, significant improvement was observed in attitudes such as willingness to pay, evaluations of products and even general judgments about H&M.
A industria da “fast-fashion” tem sido criticada ao longo dos anos pela falta de ética ambiental e social. Neste enquadramento encontramos a H&M, o segundo maior retalhista de moda no mundo. O gigante da “fast-fashion” tem como objetivo tornar sustentável a moda e lançou em 2011 a sua própria linha de moda sustentável, denominada “Conscious”. A seguinte dissertação pretende descobrir o potencial da moda sustentável em relação à mudança da atitude dos consumidores face à marca. Nesse contexto, foram investigados temas relevantes sobre sustentabilidade, reação dos consumidores face à produtos sustentáveis, marketing sustentável e atitude face à marca. Também foi desenvolvido um caso de estudo focado nos objetivos sustentáveis da H&M e, em particular da “Conscious”. Um estudo de mercado, composto por um questionário online, vai apoiar o caso de estudo para posteriormente apresentar recomendações e notas didáticas. Os resultados do estudo suportam que a “Conscious” tem o poder de mudar a atitude dos consumidores face à H&M. Foi confirmado que a exposição a dados sobre as atividades sustentáveis da marca tem consequências positivas em diferentes áreas. Depois de exibir informação sobre a “Conscious”, foram observadas melhorias significativas na atitude do consumidor como intenção de compra, avaliação de produtos e até avaliações gerais sobre a H&M.

Tese de doutoramento em Engenharia Têxtil
A strong brand in fashion is a powerful marketing tool to both maintain current customers and gain new ones. It is a value adding strategy that acts as the premise for a long-term relationship with the consumers. In order to effectively manage a brands’ positioning in the current fashion landscape, strategic thinking and market knowledge are two of the most important elements to address. Current literature on marketing illustrates the shift from a transactional process to a relationship building process where consumers take a leading role and where symbolic associations are more relevant than the tangible benefits of the product itself. Fashion nowadays is more an opportunity for self-expression, for personality statements and for a sense of belonginess amongst communities. Fashion and its symbolic associations have a two-fold role: on one hand facilitate group membership and on the other hand help to increase the uniqueness of the individual consumer. Due to the rise of technology and its direct consequences in the fashion industry, brands have started to connect directly with the consumer and structured their businesses around those same relationships. New channels of distribution and promotion are seriously impacting on how fashion is produced, marketed and consumed. One can witness the growing importance of the consumption experience, with consumers increasingly seeking not only to purchase products and meanings, but also to participate in unique and memorable consumption experiences. That leads to the establishment of an emotional bond between both parties. Through the branding process, one is able to create differential advantages and thus better and strongly position a brand in the market, leading to valuable competitive advantage over the competition. Fashion is therefore a preferential industry for the establishment of differentiation opportunities that will result in a competitive advantage. In order to support market growth and maintain competitiveness, today’s brands need to develop innovative structures and processes. To pursue a differentiated strategy is the only way to be distinct and appeal to a more egger, technology savvy and demanding consumer. If the elements of differentiation are pursued correctly within the core values of the brand, one is able to achieve a competitive advantage. The aim of this project is to develop a sustainable differentiation framework destined to enhance the chances of succeeding and achieving competitive advantage in the creation and development of mid market fashion brands. The author aimed to research and determine what are the factors that differentiate successful fashion brands, across the chosen segment. Through exploring the drivers that motivate consumers to engage with a fashion brand and identifying and mapping out the key variables that provide competitive advantage, this research intends to provide a theoretical framework to capture the key aspects of differentiation in fashion that are able to implement and sustain a brand in the market, acting as a strategic tool to employ. To reach the proposed objectives, a grounded theory methodology using both qualitative and quantitative research was carried out, in order to gain a broader and deep knowledge of the area. Through comparing and contrasting the findings from different data sources and data collection methods, the researcher searched for patterns, themes, relationships, similarities and differences amongst the information. This analytic procedure helped to build an explanatory theory representative of the reality of the phenomena. The first stage of the research process consisted of collecting data through observation and content analysis, and that provided the researcher with the basic concepts that would serve as ground basis of the study. Through a consequent questionnaire and in-depth interviews, coding, constant comparison and the emergence of theory were made possible. The findings that came out of this study showed that there is a great potential for differentiation amongst mid market fashion brands. The most relevant concepts to arise from data showed the researcher that through desirability, authenticity, responsibility and engagement, a company could develop brands that will more effectively target the market. This study encompasses all data collected in a DARE model, that can be used as a strategic tool to summarize the key construct that brands need to address to highlight and position themselves in the marketplace. This approach can offer valuable insights to brand managers and marketing managers who have the goal of establishing or maintaining a brand, serving as the ground basis to incorporate differentiation and thus achieve a competitive advantage. The DARE model can be used as a brand enhancer and as a theory to achieve greater levels of brand awareness and culminate in increased brand loyalty. This study also contributes to the literature on fashion marketing and branding by addressing the main authors and theories to date and expand on the key variables that influence change in the fashion landscape.
Uma marca de relevo em moda é uma ferramenta de marketing estratégica para manter clientes, consolidar a sua relação e potenciar o seu alargamento. Trata-se de uma estratégia de valor acrescentado que funciona como premissa para estabelecer uma relação duradoura com o consumidor. Visando gerir de forma eficaz o posicionamento de uma marca no mercado de moda atual, o conhecimento desse mesmo mercado, a capacidade para antecipar tendências e influenciar comportamentos, são importantes elementos que devem ser incorporados nas estratégias de marca contemporâneas. A bibliografia científica atual de marketing ilustra a transição de um processo meramente transacional para um processo em que a construção da relação com o consumidor assume um papel primordial e onde as associações simbólicas são mais relevantes que os benefícios tangíveis do próprio produto. Hoje em dia, a moda assume-se como uma forma de expressão pessoal, afirmação de personalidade e pertença dentro de comunidades. A moda, com as suas associações simbólicas, assume uma perspectiva bilateral: por um lado, facilita a sensação de pertença a grupos e comunidades e, por outro, acentua as características únicas e pessoais do consumidor individual. Devido à proliferação da tecnologia e às suas influências diretas na industria de moda, as marcas começaram a conectar-se diretamente com o consumidor final e a estruturar o modelo de negócio visando incorporar estas mesmas relações. Novos canais de distribuição e promoção estão a influenciar a forma como a moda é produzida, promovida e consumida. Podemos testemunhar a importância crescente da experiência de consumo, com os consumidores procurando incessantemente não só comprar produtos e os seus significados, mas também participar em experiências de consumo únicas e memoráveis. Isto origina a criação de importantes laços emocionais entre ambas as partes. Através do processo de criação e sustentação de uma marca, podemos criar um diferencial competitivo e, consequentemente, posicionar mais eficazmente a marca no Mercado, originando vantagens competitivas. A moda, é assim, uma indústria preferencial para a implementação de oportunidades de diferenciação que resultam nestas mesmas vantagens competitivas. Tendo como objectivo sustentar o crescimento e manter a competitividade, num quadro de generalização de produção/consumo, as marcas de moda atuais necessitam de desenvolver estruturas e processos inovadores. Implementar uma estratégia diferenciadora, em que importa privilegiar a diferença é a única forma de ser distinto e apelar a uma cada vez mais exigente e conectada franja de consumidores. Se os elementos de diferenciação forem implementados corretamente dentro dos valores da marca, será possível a consecução da necessária e decisiva vantagem competitiva. O foco deste trabalho é o desenvolvimento de uma teoria de diferenciação destinada a aumentar as hipóteses de sucesso no Mercado e a possibilidade de atingir uma vantagem competitiva na criação e desenvolvimento de marcas de Mercado destinadas a um segmento médio. Pretendeu-se pesquisar e determinar quais os factores que diferenciam marcas de sucesso dentro deste segmento. Através da exploração dos elementos que motivam o consumo e das proposições que levam os consumidores a estabelecer uma ligação com as marcas de moda, foram identificadas variáveis chave de decisão. Esta pesquisa pretende explorar uma teoria que sintetize os elementos chave de diferenciação em moda, que permitam a afirmação e sustentação de uma marca no mercado, visando constituir uma ferramenta estratégica. Por forma a atingir os objectivos a que esta investigação se propôs, foi adoptada a metodologia de “teoria fundamentada nos dados”, conseguida através de métodos de pesquisa qualitativos e quantitativos, visando a obtenção de um conhecimento mais profundo e abrangente. Através da comparação constante da informação recolhida de várias fontes, procurou-se estabelecer padrões, temas, relações, semelhanças e diferenças por entre a informação recolhida. Este procedimento analítico ajudou na construção de uma teoria explanatória que se pretende representativa da realidade e dimensão do fenómeno estudado. A primeira etapa do projeto de investigação consistiu na recolha de dados, através da observação e análise de conteúdos, que constituíram a base dos conceitos para estudo. Posteriormente, através de questionário e entrevistas, procedeu-se à codificação e comparação constante, iniciando-se o desenvolvimento da teoria. Os resultados retirados deste estudo mostram que há um grande potencial de diferenciação nas marcas de moda de segmento médio. Os conceitos mais relevantes que emergiram da informação recolhida, demonstram que através de desejo, autenticidade, responsabilidade e ligação emocional, é possível desenvolver marcas mais eficazmente direcionadas para o público alvo. Este estudo resume as informações recolhidas no modelo DARE, que pode ser usado como ferramenta estratégica para evidenciar as principais dimensões que as marcas devem incorporar, no sentido do seu correto posicionamento no Mercado. Esta abordagem oferece válidas reflexões para gestores de marca e responsáveis de marketing que procurem implementar, ou manter e desenvolver uma marca de moda, incorporando elementos de diferenciação que impliquem uma vantagem competitiva, condição do desejado sucesso. O modelo DARE pode ser usado como ativador de marca e como base teórica para atingir maiores níveis de conhecimento e exposição de marcas e, desta forma, culminar na sua crescente afirmação. Este estudo contribui ainda para a bibliografia científica atual em marketing e gestão de marcas de moda, ao referir os principais autores e teorias até à data e explanar as variáveis que influenciam as mudanças no ambiente da moda atual.

This study explored the Business Models (BM) of Scandinavian Contemporary Fashion (SCF) brands, using an analysis grid based on the BM Canvas. It confirmed how SCF brands place sustainability at the core of their Value Propositions (VP). Designs are produced in-house and manufactured by external suppliers, mainly selected by their sustainability and circularity (reuse and recycling) production methods, certifications and animal welfare policies. Most SCF brands developed their own restricted chemical substances list, fiber indices and garment care instructions, to better guide suppliers and customers towards their VP. SCF brands engaged in partnerships on sustainability and charity (to strengthen their green and inclusivity credentials), culture (to deliver unique lifestyle offerings) and public relations (to develop integrated online/offline marketing campaigns towards Millennials and Generation-Z consumers). SCF brands also benefit from intellectual protection and great international coverage, but could enhance their value chain traceability and circularity (repair and reduce) initiatives, customer relationships and recruitment processes, to preserve their overwhelming success sustainably in the future.