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1

1944-, Kraft Philip, Swift Karl A. D, Royal Society of Chemistry (Great Britain), and Society of Chemical Industry (Great Britain), eds. Perspectives in flavor and fragrance research. Helvetica Chimica Acta, 2005.

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2

Khan, L. A. Attempted synthesis of potential perfumery intermediates. UMIST, 1993.

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3

Appell, Louis. Cosmetics, fragrances and flavors: Their formulation and preparation with an introduction to the physical aspects of odor and selected syntheses of aromatic chemicals. Novox Inc., 1985.

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4

Stevenson, Jane. Flowers in the Abstract. Oxford University Press, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198808770.003.0017.

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Before the 1920s perfume was strongly encoded. Musky scents and tropical ‘heavy florals’ were associated with prostitution, oriental perfumes with decadence and Catholicism, and light floral scents such as rose and lavender with virtuous femininity, while citrus colognes were unisex. Blending perfumes was held to be decadent in itself. The discovery of synthetic aldehydes increased the range of possible scents, and perfumers began experimenting. The modernization of perfume began with mixing scents from different semiotic categories, thus moving from naturalism to abstraction. ‘Chanel No. 5’ w
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5

The Formulation and Preparation of Cosmetics, Fragrances and Flavors. Micelle Pr, 1994.

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6

Poucher, William Arthur. Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps: Modern Cosmetics. Springer London, Limited, 2013.

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7

Annual Report on Essential Oils, Synthetic Perfumes, & C. Creative Media Partners, LLC, 2018.

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8

Anonyma. Annual Report on Essential Oils, Synthetic Perfumes, & C. Franklin Classics Trade Press, 2018.

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9

Anonyma. Annual Report on Essential Oils, Synthetic Perfumes, & C. Franklin Classics, 2018.

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10

Annual Report on Essential Oils, Synthetic Perfumes, & C. Creative Media Partners, LLC, 2022.

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11

Anonyma. Annual Report on Essential Oils, Synthetic Perfumes, & C. Franklin Classics Trade Press, 2018.

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12

Annual Report on Essential Oils, Synthetic Perfumes, & C. Creative Media Partners, LLC, 2022.

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13

Nicholson, Peggy. The Twenty-Third Man (Dangerous to Love USA: Rhode Island #39). Silhouette, 1997.

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14

Schimmel & Co. Annual Report on Essential Oils, Synthetic Perfumes, &c; 1921-1922. Creative Media Partners, LLC, 2021.

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15

Schimmel & Co. Semi-Annual Report on Essential Oils, Synthetic Perfumes, &c; April/October 1917. Creative Media Partners, LLC, 2021.

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16

Schimmel & Co. Semi-Annual Report on Essential Oils, Synthetic Perfumes, &c; Aprli 1918-October 1920. Creative Media Partners, LLC, 2021.

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17

Maxwell, Catherine. Dandies and Decadents. Oxford University Press, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198701750.003.0008.

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This chapter examines the decadent olfactif as represented by Oscar Wilde and the poet and critic Arthur Symons, who understood how perfume helped shape their identities as dandies and sophisticated men about town, with both of them alluding to new synthetic scents. Wilde’s use of perfume as a sign of decadent sexual identity, explored in Dorian Gray, is rudely interrupted by his imprisonment in 1895, but the idea of perfume abides with him during his incarceration as an important ideal and consolation. In Symons’s poetry and prose strong or recognizable perfumes of the period are evoked for s
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18

Perfumery and Flavoring Synthetics. 3rd ed. Allured Pub Corp, 1987.

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19

Learn Perfume Creating -With Natures Gifts: Organic and Synthetic. Independently Published, 2020.

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20

Parker, Philip M. The 2007-2012 World Outlook for Synthetic Organic Chemicals for Use As Flavor and Perfume Materials. ICON Group International, Inc., 2006.

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21

The 2006-2011 World Outlook for Synthetic Organic Chemicals for Use As Flavor and Perfume Materials. Icon Group International, Inc., 2005.

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22

The 2006-2011 World Outlook for Unmixed Synthetic Organic Chemicals for Use As Flavor and Perfume Materials. Icon Group International, Inc., 2005.

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23

Parker, Philip M. The 2007-2012 World Outlook for Unmixed Synthetic Organic Chemicals for Use As Flavor and Perfume Materials. ICON Group International, Inc., 2006.

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24

The 2006-2011 World Outlook for Mixed Synthetic Organic Chemicals for Use As Flavor and Perfume Materials. Icon Group International, Inc., 2005.

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25

Parker, Philip M. The 2007-2012 World Outlook for Mixed Synthetic Organic Chemicals for Use As Flavor and Perfume Materials. ICON Group International, Inc., 2006.

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