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Journal articles on the topic 'Wave based models'

Author: Grafiati

Published: 5 October 2024

Last updated: 29 July 2025

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1

Firdaus, Nurman, Baharuddin Ali, Mochammad Nasir, and M. Muryadin. "The Wave Heights Distribution of Random Wave Based on Ocean Basin." Kapal: Jurnal Ilmu Pengetahuan dan Teknologi Kelautan 17, no. 3 (2020): 114–22. http://dx.doi.org/10.14710/kapal.v17i3.31021.

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The wave height parameter in ocean waves is one of the important information for a marine structure design. The present paper investigates the results of wave heights distribution from laboratory-generated for single sea state. Data of the random wave time series collected at the ocean basin are analyzed using the wave spectrum and compared with the theoretical spectrum in this study. The random wave data is varied with four sea states consisting of sea states 3, 4, 5 and 6 obtained from laboratory measurements. The parameter conditions of generated sea waves are represented by a value of sign

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Jialei, Lv, Shi Jian, Zhang Wenjing, Xia Jingmin, and Wang Qianhui. "Numerical simulations on waves in the Northwest Pacific Ocean based on SWAN models." Journal of Physics: Conference Series 2486, no. 1 (2023): 012034. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/1742-6596/2486/1/012034.

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Abstract Waves are one of the most important dynamic phenomena in the ocean, and thus numerical simulations of ocean wave is of great importance. Based on SWAN wave numerical model, this paper simulates the waves in the Northwest Pacific Ocean and analyzes the wave height field in the sea area. Moreover, A new wave period parameterization scheme is proposed according to the relationship between the wave height and wave period, in addition, the simulation mode of wave period elements in the Northwest Pacific Ocean is optimized by analyzing the difference of wave period under the proposed parame

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Zhang, Huichen, and Markus BrÃ¼hl. "GENERATION OF EXTREME TRANSIENT WAVES IN EXPERIMENTAL MODELS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36 (December 30, 2018): 51. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.51.

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The transfer of natural waves and sea states into small- and large-scale model teste contributes to the proper design of offshore and coastal structure. Such shallow-water ocean surface waves are highly nonlinear and subject to wave transformation and nonlinear wave-wave interactions. However, the standard methods of wave generation according to conventional wave theories and wave analysis methods are limited to simple regular waves, simple sea states and low-order wave generation without considering the nonlinear wave-wave interactions. The research project Generation of Extreme Transient Wav

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BAL, GUILLAUME, and OLIVIER PINAUD. "IMAGING USING TRANSPORT MODELS FOR WAVE–WAVE CORRELATIONS." Mathematical Models and Methods in Applied Sciences 21, no. 05 (2011): 1071–93. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s0218202511005258.

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We consider the imaging of objects buried in unknown heterogeneous media. The medium is probed by using classical (e.g. acoustic or electromagnetic) waves. When heterogeneities in the medium become too strong, inversion methodologies based on a microscopic description of wave propagation (e.g. a wave equation or Maxwell's equations) become strongly dependent on the unknown details of the heterogeneous medium. In some situations, it is preferable to use a macroscopic model for a quantity that is quadratic in the wave fields. Here, such macroscopic models take the form of radiative transfer equa

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Pruser, H. H., H. Schaper, and W. Zielke. "IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION IN A BOUSSINESO WAVE MODEL." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 20 (1986): 205. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.205.

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Numerical wave models for shallow water waves are of particular importance for the calculation of the wave climate in harbours and coastal areas. Especially nonlinear time domain models, which are based on the Boussinesq-Wave- Equations, may be helpful in the future for simulating the interaction of currents with refraction, diffraction, reflection and for simulating shoaling..-of irregular waves in natural areas; a potential which has not yet been fully developed. During the last ten years numerical models, based on these equations, have been published; such as ABBOTT et. al. , HAUGUEL and SC

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Divinsky, Boris V., Vladimir V. Fomin, and Dmitriy I. Lazorenko. "Maximum waves in the Black Sea based on the results of numerical modeling." Hydrosphere Еcology (Экология гидросферы), no. 2(12) (December 2024): 68–80. https://doi.org/10.33624/2587-9367-2024-2(12)-68-80.

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In this paper, a comparison of the wind waves parameters calculations in the Black and Azov seas, using two common spectral wave models: DHI MIKE 21 SW and SWAN was made. The fields of the wind waves main parameters (wave heights, periods, directions of propagation) were obtained for a climatic period of time from 1979 to 2018. Comparison of the calculation results shows that with the accepted model settings, the SWAN model, compared with MIKE, overestimates the values of wave heights with weak and moderate waves and underestimates with the extreme ones. Estimation of the maximum wave heights

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Mori, Nobuhito, Joao Morim, Mark Hemer, Xiaolan L. Wang, and COWCLIP Project. "ENSEMBLE WAVE CLIMATE PROJECTIONS BASED ON CMIP5 MODELS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36v (December 28, 2020): 23. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.waves.23.

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A warming climate has the potential to not only raise sea level but also exacerbate coastal hazards due to changes in storm frequency and intensity. Along open coasts where wave energy is often the dominant process dictating shoreline positions, changes in mean and extreme wave conditions are likely to alter long-term geomorphic evolution patterns. The Coordinated Ocean Wave Climate Project (COWCLIP) is to provide infrastructure to support a systematic, community-based framework that allows for validation and inter-comparison of wave projections. Here, the primary aims are to 1) present quanti

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Gogin, Aleksandr G., and Izmail G. Kantarzhi. "Numerical simulation of sea-wave diffraction with random phases on breakwaters." Vestnik MGSU, no. 4 (April 2023): 615–26. http://dx.doi.org/10.22227/1997-0935.2023.4.615-626.

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Introduction. Numerical simulation of sea gravity waves interaction with seaport barriers using modern numerical wave models is considered. The predictive power of some commonly used models is examined in relation to the diffraction of sea waves with a random phase in comparison with known analytical methods and experimental data.  Materials and methods. Numerical simulation is carried out using modern numerical wave models implemented in the DHI MIKE 21 software package. A spectral wave model with a function for correcting wave diffraction in shallow water and a phase-resolving wa

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Hernandez-Duenas, Gerardo, Leslie M. Smith, and Samuel N. Stechmann. "Investigation of Boussinesq dynamics using intermediate models based on wave–vortical interactions." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 747 (April 15, 2014): 247–87. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2014.138.

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AbstractNonlinear coupling among wave modes and vortical modes is investigated with the following question in mind: can we distinguish the wave–vortical interactions largely responsible for formation versus evolution of coherent, balanced structures? The two main case studies use initial conditions that project only onto the vortical-mode flow component of the rotating Boussinesq equations: (i) an initially balanced dipole and (ii) random initial data in the vortical modes. Both case studies compare quasi-geostrophic (QG) dynamics (involving only nonlinear interactions between vortical modes)

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Zhang, Jun. "Hybrid Wave Models and Their Applications for Steep Ocean Waves." Marine Technology Society Journal 33, no. 3 (1999): 15–26. http://dx.doi.org/10.4031/mtsj.33.3.3.

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Bound-wave components resulting from inter-actions among free-wave components have significant effects on resultant wave properties, especially in a steep ocean wave field. Hybrid Wave Models (HWM) distinguish the bound-wave from free-wave components in the decomposition of an irregular wave field as well as the prediction of its resultant proper-ties. To ensure the convergence, the HWMs selectively use the conventional and phase modulation approaches to address the nonlinear interactions between-free-wave components of different frequency ratios. The models are able to predict resultant wave

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Sato, Shoko, Takuya Miyashita, Tomoya Shimura, Nobuhito Mori, and Patrick Lynett. "MODELING WIND WAVE DEVELOPMENT BASED ON PHASE-RESOLVING WAVE MODEL AND ITS APPLICATION TO TYPHOON JEBI in 2018." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 38 (May 29, 2025): 80. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v38.waves.80.

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The extreme wave hazards caused by typhoons in bays are increasing. An accurate deformation evaluation of typhoon-induced high waves in coastal regions is critical to mitigate disasters. High wave deformation is an intermediate phenomenon rarely modeled by current wave models, the phase-resolving and spectral wave models. This study aims to develop a phase-resolving wave model that considers the development of wind waves in shallow water under strong wind conditions. A wind-wave growth term, which includes the local wave deformation, is introduced into the phase-resolving wave model. XBeach (R

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SU, MING, GARY G. YEN, and R. R. RHINEHART. "GA-BASED TIME SERIES MODELS WITH THRESHOLD IN TWO DOMAINS." Journal of Circuits, Systems and Computers 18, no. 04 (2009): 801–23. http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s021812660900537x.

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A new threshold time series model is proposed whose submodels are extended from AR to SARIMA and whose domains having thresholds are extended to two. By these two extensions, the newly proposed models offer more flexibility to piecewisely approximate nonstationary time series by a finite number of local stationary models. A genetic algorithm is applied to simultaneously search for appropriate model structures, estimate the optimal model coefficients, as well as partition space by finding appropriate thresholds. The resulting model is applied to a synthetic multi-frequency sine wave and two fin

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Xu, Chao, Rui Li, Wei Hu, et al. "On the Nearshore Significant Wave Height Inversion from Video Images Based on Deep Learning." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 12, no. 11 (2024): 2003. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse12112003.

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Accurate observation of nearshore waves is crucial for coastal safety. In this study, the feasibility of extracting wave information from wave video images captured by shore-based cameras using deep learning methods was explored, focusing on inverting nearshore significant wave height (SWH) from instantaneous wave video images. The accuracy of deep learning models in classifying wind wave and swell wave images was investigated, providing reliable classification results for SWH inversion research. A classification network named ResNet-SW for wave types with improved ResNet was proposed. On this

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Esparza, César Antonio, Rodrigo Alberto Cienfuegos, and Patricio Alejandro Winckler. "EXTREME SEA-LEVEL PROJECTIONS BASED ON LOCAL WAVES AND FORESHORE SLOPE." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 38 (May 29, 2025): 220. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v38.management.220.

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Extreme Sea Levels (ESL) are episodes of infrequent combinations of high tides, storm surges, and waves, also enhanced by the rising of the mean sea level due to Climate Change. These events have the potential to cause devastating flooding, erosion, and inundation, resulting in widespread damage to infrastructure and ecosystems (Oppenheimer et al., 2019). Usually, the future projections of ESL rely only on offshore wave data due to the high computational costs of downscaling multiple Global Climate Models (GCMs) and resolving the required directional and spectral characteristics as waves shoal

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15

Londhe, S. N., and Vijay Panchang. "One-Day Wave Forecasts Based on Artificial Neural Networks." Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology 23, no. 11 (2006): 1593–603. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jtech1932.1.

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Abstract Sophisticated wave models like the Wave Model (WAM) and Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)/WAVEWATCH are used nowadays along with atmospheric models to produce forecasts of ocean wave conditions. These models are generally run operationally on large ocean-scale domains. In many coastal areas, on the other hand, operational forecasting is not performed for a variety of reasons, yet the need for wave forecasts remains. To address such cases, the production of forecasts through the use of artificial neural networks and buoy measurements is explored. A modeling strategy that predicts wave

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Kyaw, Thit Oo, Tomoya Shibayama, Yoko Shibutani, and Yasuo Kotake. "DEVELOPMENT OF A DEEP-LEARNING BASED WAVE FORECASTING MODEL USING LSTM NETWORK." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36v (December 28, 2020): 31. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.waves.31.

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Forecasting of wave conditions plays an essential role for offshore construction and maintenance. Recently, machine learning-based wave forecasting models have been developed and their integrated usage with physics-based numerical models has become popular. These studies mostly apply Feed Forward Neural Networks (FFNNs) with an emphasis on prediction of time-series of waves, tides and storm surges. As a particularly different approach, we develop a deep learning-based wave forecasting model using Long Short-Term Memory (LSTM) network under Recurrent Neural Networks. As a case study, the model

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17

Saprykina, Yana, Burak Aydogan, and Berna Ayat. "MODELLING OF SPILLING AND PLUNGING BREAKING WAVES IN SPECTRAL MODELS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 37 (September 1, 2023): 15. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.papers.15.

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Based on the data of field experiments and modeling was revealed that the dissipation of the energy of the high-frequency part of the wave spectrum due to wave breaking should compensate the nonlinear growth of higher wave harmonics, which occurs in different ways both for waves breaking with different types and for different methods of modeling a nonlinear source term. The effect of the dissipative term type used on the estimates of sediment transport is discussed.

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18

Ern, Manfred, Quang Thai Trinh, Peter Preusse, et al. "GRACILE: a comprehensive climatology of atmospheric gravity wave parameters based on satellite limb soundings." Earth System Science Data 10, no. 2 (2018): 857–92. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/essd-10-857-2018.

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Abstract. Gravity waves are one of the main drivers of atmospheric dynamics. The spatial resolution of most global atmospheric models, however, is too coarse to properly resolve the small scales of gravity waves, which range from tens to a few thousand kilometers horizontally, and from below 1 km to tens of kilometers vertically. Gravity wave source processes involve even smaller scales. Therefore, general circulation models (GCMs) and chemistry climate models (CCMs) usually parametrize the effect of gravity waves on the global circulation. These parametrizations are very simplified. For this

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Khoirunnisa, H., G. R. Pasma, and G. Gumbira. "Numerical modeling of return period waves based on non-linear Boussinesq wave models to support tidal flood studies in the Kedungsepur area." IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science 1224, no. 1 (2023): 012020. http://dx.doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/1224/1/012020.

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Abstract A number of rapid developments and negative effects of climate change in coastal areas have forced its equilibrium system. As a result, tidal floods, high waves, and storms occur more frequently. The goal of this research is to examine nearshore hydrodynamic conditions by using results from the hindcasting procedure. A non-linear Boussinesq (BW) and Spectral Wave (SW) models are used in this study. The models use the manning coefficient, bathymetry data (BATNAS), significant wave height, and wave period calculated by using the hindcasting method. This research commenced by processing

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Vogel, J. A., A. C. Radder, and J. H. De Reus. "VERIFICATION OF NUMERICAL WAVE PROPAGATION MODELS IN TIDAL INLETS." Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1, no. 21 (1988): 30. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.30.

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The performance of two numerical wave propagation models has been investigated by comparison with field data. The first model is a refractiondiffraction model based on the parabolic equation method. The second is a refraction model based on the wave action equation, using a regular grid. Two field situations, viz. a tidal inlet and a river estuary along the Dutch coast, were used to determine the influence of the local wind on waves behind an island and a breaker zone. It may be concluded from the results of the computations and measurements that a much better agreement is obtained when wave g

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21

Guérin, Charles-Antoine, Nicolas Desmars, Stéphan T. Grilli, Guillaume Ducrozet, Yves Perignon, and Pierre Ferrant. "An improved Lagrangian model for the time evolution of nonlinear surface waves." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 876 (August 1, 2019): 527–52. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2019.519.

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Accurate real-time simulations and forecasting of phase-revolved ocean surface waves require nonlinear effects, both geometrical and kinematic, to be accurately represented. For this purpose, wave models based on a Lagrangian steepness expansion have proved particularly efficient, as compared to those based on Eulerian expansions, as they feature higher-order nonlinearities at a reduced numerical cost. However, while they can accurately model the instantaneous nonlinear wave shape, Lagrangian models developed to date cannot accurately predict the time evolution of even simple periodic waves. H

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Smit, P. B., T. T. Janssen, and T. H. C. Herbers. "Stochastic Modeling of Coherent Wave Fields over Variable Depth." Journal of Physical Oceanography 45, no. 4 (2015): 1139–54. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-14-0219.1.

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AbstractRefractive focusing of swell waves can result in fast-scale variations in the wave statistics because of wave interference, which cannot be resolved by stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport equation. Quasi-coherent statistical theory does account for such statistical interferences and the associated wave inhomogeneities, but the theory has thus far been presented in a form that appears incompatible with models based on the radiative transfer equation (RTE). Moreover, the quasi-coherent theory has never been tested against field data, and it is not clear how the cohere

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Sidler, Rolf. "A porosity-based Biot model for acoustic waves in snow." Journal of Glaciology 61, no. 228 (2015): 789–98. http://dx.doi.org/10.3189/2015jog15j040.

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AbstractPhase velocities and attenuation in snow cannot be explained by the widely used elastic or viscoelastic models for acoustic wave propagation. Instead, Biot’s model of wave propagation in porous materials should be used. However, the application of Biot’s model is complicated by the large property space of the underlying porous material. Here constant properties for ice and air, and empirical relationships are used to estimate unknown porous properties from snow porosity. Using this set of equations, phase velocities and plane wave attenuation of shear- and compressional waves are predi

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Penalba, Markel, and John V. Ringwood. "Linearisation-based nonlinearity measures for wave-to-wire models in wave energy." Ocean Engineering 171 (January 2019): 496–504. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2018.11.033.

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Chen, Zereng, Qinghe Zhang, and Yang Nie. "A New Expression for a Goda Type Breaker Index Formula in Spectral Wave Models." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 13, no. 2 (2025): 313. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13020313.

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The breaker index in contemporary spectral wave models is a vital parameter in studying depth-induced wave breaking, which is an important mechanism in coastal engineering. In the previous study, the authors modified a Goda type breaker index formula and parameterized it in a spectral wave model. Although this parameterization model can accurately simulate nearshore wave height variations under various laboratory and field conditions, the computation of deep-water wave conditions in the formula necessitates reverse calculation based on the incident waves, thus limiting its applicability. To so

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Luo, Feng, Yao Feng, Guisheng Liao, and Linrang Zhang. "The Dynamic Sea Clutter Simulation of Shore-Based Radar Based on Stokes Waves." Remote Sensing 14, no. 16 (2022): 3915. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/rs14163915.

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The sea clutter model based on the physical sea surface can simulate radar echo at different times and positions and is more suitable for describing dynamic sea clutter than the traditional models based on statistical significance. However, when applying the physical surface model to shore-based radar, the effects of wave nonlinearity, breaking wave, shadow, and radar footprint size must be considered. In this paper, a dynamic sea clutter simulation scheme based on a nonlinear wave is proposed that uses random Stokes waves instead of linear superposition waves to simulate the nonlinear dynamic

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Pierson, Willard J., and Azed Jean-Pierre. "Monte Carlo Simulations of Nonlinear Ocean Wave Records with Implications for Models of Breaking Waves." Journal of Ship Research 43, no. 02 (1999): 121–34. http://dx.doi.org/10.5957/jsr.1999.43.2.121.

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A Monte Carlo method for simulating nonlinear ocean wave records as a function of time is described. It is based on a family of probability density functions developed by Karl Pearson and requires additional knowledge of the dimensionless moments of a postulated nonlinear wave record, which are the skewness and kurtosis. A frequency spectrum is used to simulate a linear record. It is then transformed to a nonlinear record for the chosen values of the skewness and kurtosis. The result is not a perturbation expansion of the nonlinear equations that describe unbroken waves. It yields a simulated

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Bujak, Damjan, Hanna Miličević, Goran Lončar, and Dalibor Carević. "Hindcasting Extreme Significant Wave Heights Under Fetch-Limited Conditions with Tree-Based Models." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 13, no. 7 (2025): 1355. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13071355.

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Accurately hindcasting waves in semi-enclosed, fetch-limited basins remains challenging for reanalysis models, which tend to underestimate storm peaks near the coast. We developed interpretable ML models for Rijeka Bay (northern Adriatic) using only wind observations from two land-based wind stations to predict buoy Hm0 measurements spanning 2009–2011 (testing) and 2019–2021 (training and validation). The tested tree-based models included Random Forest, XGBoost, and Explainable Boosting Machine. This study introduces a novel approach in the literature by employing weighted schemes and feature

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Diaz Loaiza, Manuel Andres, Jeremy D. Bricker, Remi Meynadier, Trang Minh Duong, Rosh Ranasinghe, and Sebastiaan N. Jonkman. "Development of damage curves for buildings near La Rochelle during storm Xynthia based on insurance claims and hydrodynamic simulations." Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences 22, no. 2 (2022): 345–60. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-345-2022.

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Abstract. The Delft3D hydrodynamic and wave model is used to hindcast the storm surge and waves that impacted La Rochelle, France, and the surrounding area (Aytré, Châtelaillon-Plage, Yves, Fouras, and Île de Ré) during storm Xynthia. These models are validated against tide and wave measurements. The models then estimate the footprint of flow depth, speed, unit discharge, flow momentum flux, significant wave height, wave energy flux, total water depth (flow depth plus wave height), and total (flow plus wave) force at the locations of damaged buildings for which insurance claims data are availa

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Gagarina, E., J. van der Vegt, and O. Bokhove. "Horizontal circulation and jumps in Hamiltonian wave models." Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 20, no. 4 (2013): 483–500. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/npg-20-483-2013.

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Abstract. We are interested in the modelling of wave-current interactions around surf zones at beaches. Any model that aims to predict the onset of wave breaking at the breaker line needs to capture both the nonlinearity of the wave and its dispersion. We have therefore formulated the Hamiltonian dynamics of a new water wave model, incorporating both the shallow water and pure potential flow water wave models as limiting systems. It is based on a Hamiltonian reformulation of the variational principle derived by Cotter and Bokhove (2010) by using more convenient variables. Our new model has a t

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Drzewiecki, Marcin. "The Propagation of the Waves in the CTO S.A. Towing Tank." Polish Maritime Research 25, s1 (2018): 22–28. http://dx.doi.org/10.2478/pomr-2018-0018.

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Abstract The paper presents the results of research focused on the wave propagation in the CTO S.A. deepwater towing tank. In the scope of paper, the wavemaker transfer function was determined for regular waves, based on the Biésel Transfer Function and further for irregular waves, based on Hasselman model of nonlinear energy transfer. The phenomena: wave damping, wave breakdown and wave reflection, were measured, analyzed and mathematically modeled. Developed mathematical models allow to calculate the impact of mentioned phenomena on the wave propagation and furthermore to calculate the wave

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Holman, Kathleen D., David J. Lorenz, and Michael Notaro. "Influence of the Background State on Rossby Wave Propagation into the Great Lakes Region Based on Observations and Model Simulations*." Journal of Climate 27, no. 24 (2014): 9302–22. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jcli-d-13-00758.1.

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Abstract The authors investigate the relationship between hydrology in the Great Lakes basin—namely, overlake precipitation and transient Rossby waves—using the National Centers for Environmental Prediction–National Center for Atmospheric Research (NCEP–NCAR) reanalysis data and historical output from phase 3 of the Coupled Model Intercomparison Project (CMIP3). The preferred path of observed Rossby wave trains associated with overlake precipitation on Lake Superior depends strongly on season and appears to be related to the time-mean, upper-level flow. During summer and fall, the Northern Hem

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Stephan, Claudia, M. Joan Alexander, and Jadwiga H. Richter. "Characteristics of Gravity Waves from Convection and Implications for Their Parameterization in Global Circulation Models." Journal of the Atmospheric Sciences 73, no. 7 (2016): 2729–42. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/jas-d-15-0303.1.

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Abstract Characteristic properties of gravity waves from convection over the continental United States are derived from idealized high-resolution numerical simulations. In a unique modeling approach, waves are forced by a realistic thermodynamic source based on observed precipitation data. The square of the precipitation rate and the gravity wave momentum fluxes both show lognormal occurrence distributions, with long tails of extreme events. Convectively generated waves can give forces in the lower stratosphere that at times rival orographic wave forcing. Throughout the stratosphere, zonal for

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Shi, Jiao, Tianyun Su, Xinfang Li, et al. "A Machine-Learning Approach Based on Attention Mechanism for Significant Wave Height Forecasting." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 11, no. 9 (2023): 1821. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse11091821.

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Significant wave height (SWH) is a key parameter for monitoring the state of waves. Accurate and long-term SWH forecasting is significant to maritime shipping and coastal engineering. This study proposes a transformer model based on an attention mechanism to achieve the forecasting of SWHs. The transformer model can capture the contextual information and dependencies between sequences and achieves continuous time series forecasting. Wave scale classification is carried out according to the forecasting results, and the results are compared with gated recurrent unit (GRU) and long short-term mem

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Follett, R. K., A. Colaïtis, D. Turnbull, D. H. Froula, and J. P. Palastro. "Validation of ray-based cross-beam energy transfer models." Physics of Plasmas 29, no. 11 (2022): 113902. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/5.0123462.

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Ray-based cross-beam energy transfer (CBET) models have become a common feature of the radiation-hydrodynamic codes used to simulate inertial confinement fusion experiments. These models are necessary for achieving better agreement with experimental measurements, but their detailed implementation can vary widely between the codes and often rely on artificial multipliers. To address this, a series of 2D and 3D test cases has been developed with validated solutions from wave-based calculations. Comparisons of various ray-based CBET models to the wave-based calculations highlight the essential ph

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Uday A. Alturfi and Abdul-Hassan K. Shukur. "Investigation of Energy Dissipation for Different Breakwater Based on Computational Fluid Dynamic Model." CFD Letters 16, no. 1 (2023): 22–42. http://dx.doi.org/10.37934/cfdl.16.1.2242.

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In this research, the hydraulic performance of the combined shape breakwaters was investigated through a laboratory study supported by a numerical mathematical model CFD to examine the different model shapes depending on the transmissions wave coefficient Ct. In order to stabilize the incident wave Hi with the same characteristics, waves were defined through the UDF file for CFD model. To investigated the performance of breakwaters base on energy dissipations, different models were tested under various wave condition, water depth, and relative submerged depth. Result of this study are showed t

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Bennetts, L. G., and T. D. Williams. "Water wave transmission by an array of floating discs." Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences 471, no. 2173 (2015): 20140698. http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2014.0698.

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An experimental validation of theoretical models of regular-water-wave transmission through arrays of floating discs is presented. The experiments were conducted in a wave basin. The models are based on combined potential-flow and thin-plate theories, and the assumption of linear motions. A low-concentration array, in which discs are separated by approximately a disc diameter in equilibrium, and a high-concentration array, in which adjacent discs are almost touching in equilibrium, were used for the experiments. The proportion of incident-wave energy transmitted by the discs is presented as a

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Cova, Raul, David Henley, and Kristopher A. Innanen. "Computing near-surface velocity models for S-wave static corrections using raypath interferometry." GEOPHYSICS 83, no. 3 (2018): U23—U34. http://dx.doi.org/10.1190/geo2017-0340.1.

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A near-surface velocity model is one of the typical products generated when computing static corrections, particularly in the processing of PP data. Critically refracted waves are the input usually needed for this process. In addition, for the converted PS mode, S-wave near-surface corrections must be applied at the receiver locations. In this case, however, critically refracted S-waves are difficult to identify when using P-wave energy sources. We use the [Formula: see text]-[Formula: see text] representation of the converted-wave data to capture the intercept-time differences between receive

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YANG, DI, and LIAN SHEN. "Direct-simulation-based study of turbulent flow over various waving boundaries." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 650 (March 24, 2010): 131–80. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112009993557.

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We use direct numerical simulation of stress-driven turbulent Couette flows over waving surfaces to study turbulence in the vicinity of water waves. Mechanistic study is performed through systematic investigation of different wavy surface conditions including plane progressive Airy and Stokes waves with and without wind-induced surface drift, as well as stationary wavy walls and vertically waving walls for comparison. Two different wave steepness values ak = 0.1 and 0.25 are considered, where a is the wave amplitude and k is the wavenumber. For effects of wave age, defined as the ratio between

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Mohapatra, Sarat Chandra, Hafizul Islam, Thiago S. Hallak, and C. Guedes Soares. "Solitary Wave Interaction with a Floating Pontoon Based on Boussinesq Model and CFD-Based Simulations." Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 10, no. 9 (2022): 1251. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse10091251.

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A mathematical model of solitary wave interaction with a pontoon-type rigid floating structure over a flat bottom is formulated based on Boussinesq-type equations under weakly nonlinear dispersive waves. Based on the higher-order Boussinesq equations, the solitary wave equation is derived, and a semi-analytical solution is obtained using the perturbation technique. On the other hand, brief descriptions of the application of wave2Foam and OceanWave3D on the aforementioned problem are presented. The analytical solitary wave profiles in the outer region are compared with Computational Fluid Dynam

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Van Duin, Cornelis A. "Rapid-distortion turbulence models in the theory of surface-wave generation." Journal of Fluid Mechanics 329 (December 25, 1996): 147–53. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0022112096008877.

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Turbulent air flow over a surface gravity wave of small amplitude is studied analytically on the basis of a family of rapid-distortion turbulence models. Results for the wave growth rate do not depend sensitively on the specific choice of these models. However, the agreement with results based on a so-called truncated mixing-length model (Belcher & Hunt 1993) is poor, despite physical similarity of the models. The present analysis also shows that the use of turbulence models based on rapid-distortion theory leads to significant underestimation of observed growth rates of high-frequency wav

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Nguyen, Thao Danh, and Duy The Nguyen. "SIMULATION OF WAVE PRESSURE ON A VERTICAL WALL BASED ON 2-D NAVIER-STOKES EQUATIONS." Science and Technology Development Journal 12, no. 18 (2009): 59–68. http://dx.doi.org/10.32508/stdj.v12i18.2384.

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This paper applies and develops a numerical model based on the two-dimensional vertical Navier-Stokes equations to simulate the temporal and spatial variations of wave parameters in front of vertical walls. A non-uniform grids system is performed in the numerical solution of the model by transforming a variable physical domain to a fixed computational domain. Through present model, beside some basic hydrodynamic problems of water waves such as wave profile and water particle velocities, standing wave pressures at the wall are examined. Numerical results of the present model are compared with l

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Wei, Chih-Chiang, and Hao-Chun Chang. "Forecasting of Typhoon-Induced Wind-Wave by Using Convolutional Deep Learning on Fused Data of Remote Sensing and Ground Measurements." Sensors 21, no. 15 (2021): 5234. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/s21155234.

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Taiwan is an island, and its economic activities are primarily dependent on maritime transport and international trade. However, Taiwan is also located in the region of typhoon development in the Northwestern Pacific Basin. Thus, it frequently receives strong winds and large waves brought by typhoons, which pose a considerable threat to port operations. To determine the real-time status of winds and waves brought by typhoons near the coasts of major ports in Taiwan, this study developed models for predicting the wind speed and wave height near the coasts of ports during typhoon periods. The fo

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Oh, Jung-Eun, and Sang-Ho Oh. "Estimation of the Input Height of Irregular Waves Generated at a Wave Maker by Using Gaussian Process Regression and Artificial Neural Networks." Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers 36, no. 6 (2024): 225–32. https://doi.org/10.9765/kscoe.2024.36.6.225.

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A neural network (NN) and Gaussian process regression (GPR) model for predicting the input wave height of the wave generator were established, and their performance was evaluated and compared using irregular wave data acquired in a two-dimensional wave flume. Both models were able to predict the input wave height that can produce the target wave height of irregular waves with a very high accuracy. Among the two models, the GPR model showed better performance than the NN model. Based on the results of this study, it is expected to reduce the time required for experiments by shortening trial and

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Lowe, Ryan J., Corrado Altomare, Mark Buckley, Renan da Silva, Jeff Hansen, and Dirk Rijnsdorp, Jose Dominguez, Alejandro Crespo. "NONHYDROSTATIC AND MESH-FREE COMPUTATIONAL FLUID DYNAMICS MODEL COMPARISONS OF SURF ZONE HYDRODYNAMICS BY PLUNGING IRREGULAR WAVES." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 37 (September 1, 2023): 11. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.currents.11.

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Wave breaking over steep bathymetry often generates plunging waves where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Simulating these complex surf zone processes poses significant challenges for conventional mesh-based hydrodynamic models, due to the rapidly-deforming nature of the free surface and underlying turbulent flows. Yet accurate prediction of these hydrodynamics is essential to characterize the wide range of nearshore processes driven by wave breaking. In this study we rigorously compare the ability of two different classes of phase-resolving wave-flow models to

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Babanin, Alexander V., and AndréJ van der Westhuysen. "Physics of “Saturation-Based” Dissipation Functions Proposed for Wave Forecast Models." Journal of Physical Oceanography 38, no. 8 (2008): 1831–41. http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/2007jpo3874.1.

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Abstract The dissipation term is one of the three most important source functions of the radiative transfer equation employed by all spectral wave models to predict the wave spectrum. In this paper, the issue of physics of such dissipation functions is discussed. It is argued that the physics presently utilized in the models do not adequately describe currently known features of the wave dissipation process, and the dissipation functions, to a great extent, remain a residual tuning term in spite of important experimental progress in wave breaking studies. A recently suggested “saturation-based

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Chen, Qin, Ling Zhu, Fengyan Shi, and Steve Brandt. "BOUSSINESQ MODELING OF COMBINED STORM SURGE AND WAVES OVER WETLANDS FORCED BY WIND." Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 36v (December 28, 2020): 6. http://dx.doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.waves.6.

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Coastal wetlands protect the shoreline and infrastructure by attenuating wind waves and reducing storm surge. It is of importance to accurately quantify the flood protection provided by vegetation. Existing numerical models for hurricane waves and storm surge are based on the phase-averaged wave action balance equation and the nonlinear shallow water equations, respectively, with the wind forcing and vegetal drag as the free surface and bottom boundary conditions. To consider the interaction of waves and surge, the phase-averaged short wave and long wave (storm surge) models can be coupled in

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Rhee, Shin Hyung, and Fred Stern. "RANS Model for Spilling Breaking Waves." Journal of Fluids Engineering 124, no. 2 (2002): 424–32. http://dx.doi.org/10.1115/1.1467078.

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A RANS model for spilling breaking waves is developed, which can be implemented with ship hydrodynamics RANS CFD codes. The model is based on the Cointe & Tulin theory of steady breakers. The breaker cross section is assumed triangular with maximum height determined by the theoretical/experimental linear relationship with following wave height. Pressure and velocity boundary conditions are imposed on the dividing streamline between the breaker and underlying flow based on the hydrostatic and mixing layer models. An iterative solution procedure provides a unique solution for specified break

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Nose, Takehiko, Takuji Waseda, Tsubasa Kodaira, and Jun Inoue. "Satellite-retrieved sea ice concentration uncertainty and its effect on modelling wave evolution in marginal ice zones." Cryosphere 14, no. 6 (2020): 2029–52. http://dx.doi.org/10.5194/tc-14-2029-2020.

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Abstract. Ocean surface waves are known to decay when they interact with sea ice. Wave–ice models implemented in a spectral wave model, e.g. WAVEWATCH III® (WW3), derive the attenuation coefficient based on several different model ice types, i.e. how the model treats sea ice. In the marginal ice zone (MIZ) with sea ice concentration (SIC) < 1, the wave attenuation is moderated by SIC: we show that subgrid-scale processes relating to the SIC and sea ice type heterogeneity in the wave–ice models are missing and the accuracy of SIC plays an important role in the predictability. Satellite-retri

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Stosic, Biljana. "Wave-based digital models of different branch-line couplers." Serbian Journal of Electrical Engineering 17, no. 2 (2020): 149–69. http://dx.doi.org/10.2298/sjee2002149s.

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Microwave and millimeter-wave communication systems require couplers in different applications. The aim of this paper is to construct simple wave digital models of directional couplers with two or three parallel lines. The idea behind this aim is to be able to model a microstrip structure and to simulate it using Simulink platform which has already been used extensively by researchers. Advanced Design System (ADS) software and MATLAB/Simulink environment are used to design, implement and simulate the investigated microstrip circuits and their models. Validity and accuracy of the presented digi

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