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Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Wave run-up'

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Published: 4 June 2021

Last updated: 18 February 2022

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1

Roux, Abraham Pierre. "A re-assessment of wave run up formulae." Thesis, Stellenbosch : Stellenbosch University, 2015. http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/96562.

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Thesis (MEng)--Stellenbosch University, 2015.<br>ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Over the last few decades, wave run up prediction has gained the interest of numerous researchers and every newly-published paper has aimed to predict wave run up with greater accuracy. Wave run up is defined as the vertical elevation reached by a wave's, front water edge as it runs up a beach, measured relative to the still water line. Wave run up is dependent on the incidental wave height, the wave period, the beach slope and the wave steepness. The majority of publications incorporate all of these factors, but some do n

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2

Morris-Thomas, Michael. "An investigation into wave run-up on vertical surface piercing cylinders in monochromatic waves." University of Western Australia. School of Oil and Gas Engineering, 2003. http://theses.library.uwa.edu.au/adt-WU2004.0010.

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[Formulae and special characters can only be approximated here. Please see the pdf version of the abstract for an accurate reproduction.] Wave run-up is the vertical uprush of water when an incident wave impinges on a free- surface penetrating body. For large volume offshore structures the wave run-up on the weather side of the supporting columns is particularly important for air-gap design and ultimately the avoidance of pressure impulse loads on the underside of the deck structure. This investigation focuses on the limitations of conventional wave diffraction theory, where the free-surface

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Shiach, Jonathan Ben. "Numerical modelling of wave run-up and overtopping using depth integrated equations." Thesis, Manchester Metropolitan University, 2008. http://ethos.bl.uk/OrderDetails.do?uin=uk.bl.ethos.486867.

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Wave run-up and overtopping of coastal structures have been extensively studied over the last 30 years to provide guidance for the construction of sea defences. Numerical models based on fluid flow equations can provide a useful aid in the design of these coastal defences. Computers have now advanced sufficiently to enable programs written to solve the flow equations to run on hardware that is readily available (e.g., desktop or laptop computers), thus giving engineers the ability to conduct multiple runs of an experiment, reconfigure the bathymetry, change the wave conditions and collect data

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Orszaghova, Jana. "Solitary waves and wave groups at the shore." Thesis, University of Oxford, 2011. http://ora.ox.ac.uk/objects/uuid:5b168bdc-4956-4152-a303-b23a6067bf42.

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A significant proportion of the world's population and physical assets are located in low lying coastal zones. Accurate prediction of wave induced run-up and overtopping of sea defences are important in defining the extent and severity of wave action, and in assessing risk to people and property from severe storms and tsunamis. This thesis describes a one-dimensional numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations of Madsen and Sorensen (1992) and the non-linear shallow water equations. The model is suitable for simulating propagation of weakly non-linear and weakly dispersive waves from int

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5

Chapman, Neil. "Modelling the dynamic interaction between hydrology, slope stability and wave run-up processes in the soft-sea cliffs at Covehithe, Suffolk, UK." Thesis, Birkbeck (University of London), 2014. http://bbktheses.da.ulcc.ac.uk/98/.

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Soft-rock coastal cliff retreat progresses by an intermittent and discontinuous series of slope mass movements, generally accepted to be concentrated during phases of strong wave attack or heavy rain. One of the fundamental limitations to improving understanding of these processes is a lack of accurate quantitative data on the hydrological and geotechnical behaviour of the cliff slope. In this study, high-resolution terrestrial surveys of coastal change over a fifteen year period have been analysed and combined with hydrological and geotechnical simulations of cliff behaviour under rainfall st

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Wilson, Jessica. "The Efficacy and Design of Coastal Protection Using Large Woody Debris." Thesis, Université d'Ottawa / University of Ottawa, 2020. http://hdl.handle.net/10393/41573.

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Those who frequent the coastline may be accustomed to seeing driftwood washed onshore, some of it having seemingly found a home there for many years, others having been freshly deposited during the last set of storms; However, if a passerby were to take a closer look at the driftwood on the coastline, they may notice that some of these logs – also known as Large Woody Debris (LWD) – are anchored in place, a practice which is generally used for the purpose of stabilizing the shoreline or reducing wave-induced flooding. Records of existing anchored LWD project sites date back to 1997 and anecdo

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7

Röhner, Michael. "Schwallwellen infolge der Bewegung einer Begrenzungsfläche." Doctoral thesis, Saechsische Landesbibliothek- Staats- und Universitaetsbibliothek Dresden, 2011. http://nbn-resolving.de/urn:nbn:de:bsz:14-qucosa-77100.

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Restlöcher ausgekohlter Braunkohlentagebaue werden aus landeskulturellen und ökonomischen Gründen wasserwirtschaftlich als Speicher, Hochwasserrückhaltebecken, Klärteiche, Wassergewinnungsanlagen sowie zur Naherholung genutzt. Diese Restlöcher werden zum großen Teil von aus geschüttetem Abraum bestehenden Böschungen umschlossen. Bei Wasserspiegelschwankungen neigen diese unbefestigten Böschungen zum Rutschen. Als Folge dieser Böschungsrutschungen bilden sich auf der Wasseroberfläche Wellen, die eine beachtliche Größe erreichen können. Diese Schwallwellen übertreffen in ihren Ausmaßen die Windw

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Silva, Guilherme Vieira da. "Cota de inundação e recorrência para a enseada do Itapocorói e praia de Morro dos Conventos, Santa Catarina." reponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da UFRGS, 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/10183/56330.

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Este trabalho apresenta o cálculo da cota de inundação para a Enseada do Itapocorói e para a praia de Morro dos Conventos, litoral do Estado de Santa Catarina. Para atingir os objetivos desse trabalho, a cota de inundação foi calculada através da soma das marés meteorológica e astronômica e do wave run-up. Foi utilizada uma base de 60 anos (horária) de dados de marés e ondas, além de dados de batimetria e topografia das praias. Com o intuito de se obter dados mais realistas do wave run-up, os parâmetros ondulatórios da base de dados foram transferidos de águas profundas para próximo da costa c

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Williams, Steven Mark. "The run-up and overtopping of shallow water waves." Thesis, University of Bristol, 2003. http://hdl.handle.net/1983/1737edc5-15c3-4fc6-b5eb-cc598df55ca2.

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10

Guibourg, Sandrine. "MModélisations numérique et expérimentale des houles bidimensionnelles en zone cotière." Université Joseph Fourier (Grenoble), 1994. http://www.theses.fr/1994GRE10160.

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Une analyse theorique detaillee des equations de boussinesq et de serre a ete realisee. Les domaines de validite de chaque equation ont ete determines theoriquement. Ces equations d'ondes longues sont discretisees selon un schema aux differences finies pour des ondes de surface libre sur fond plat et fond variable. Par le biais d'une comparaison numerique avec des essais experimentaux d'ondes longues sur fond plat, les modeles numeriques ont ete etendus a la description des ondes courtes. Un terme dispersif correctif a ete introduit pour ameliorer les capacites dispersives des modeles. Des ess

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11

Lin, Duo-min Wu Theodore Y. T. Wu Theodore Y. T. "Run-up and nonlinear propagation of oceanic internal waves and their interactions /." Diss., Pasadena, Calif. : California Institute of Technology, 1996. http://resolver.caltech.edu/CaltechETD:etd-12192007-084353.

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Zhang, Jin E. Wu Theodore Y. T. Wu Theodore Y. T. "I. Run-up of ocean waves on beaches. : II. Nonlinear waves in a fluid-filled elastic tube /." Diss., Pasadena, Calif. : California Institute of Technology, 1996. http://resolver.caltech.edu/CaltechETD:etd-01072008-105605.

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13

Campos, Maria Manuel Trindade. "Public sector wage gap and fiscal adjustments on the run-up to the euro area." Master's thesis, Instituto Superior de Economia e Gestão, 2011. http://hdl.handle.net/10400.5/4310.

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Mestrado em Econometria Aplicada e Previsão<br>This study examines the fiscal adjustments that took place on the run-up to the euro area and how were they reflected on the func¬tioning of the public sector labour markets in euro area countries. OECD data are used to identify and characterize episodes of fiscal consolidation in a broad set of countries and within the 1983-2001 time-frame, but focusing, in particular, on those corresponding to the euro area founding Member States and to the 1993-1997 period. To assess developments referring to compensation of employees and how the occurrence of

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Stefanakis, Themistoklis. "Tsunami amplification phenomena." Phd thesis, École normale supérieure de Cachan - ENS Cachan, 2013. http://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00920527.

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This thesis is divided in four parts. In the first one I will present our work on long wave run-up and some resonant amplification phenomena. With the use of numerical simulations for the nonlinear shallow water equations, we show that in the case of monochromatic waves normally incident on a plane beach, resonant run-up amplification occurs when the incoming wavelength is 5.2 times larger the beach length. We also show that this resonant run-up amplification can be observed for several wave profiles such as bichromatic, polychromatic and cnoidal. However, resonant run-up amplification is not

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15

Angeli, Cesare. "Analytical solutions for the run-up of long water waves excited by time-independent and time-dependent forcing." Master's thesis, Alma Mater Studiorum - Università di Bologna, 2020. http://amslaurea.unibo.it/21772/.

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Nello studio fisico e matematico dei maremoti, l'interazione con la costa, o problema del run-up rappresenta ancora oggi una grande sfida. Da un lato, si tratta forse del problema di maggiore urgenza, in quanto è proprio all'arrivo alla terra ferma che il maremoto causa le maggiori perdite umane e materiali. Dall'altro lato, la formulazione matematica del problema è particolarmente complessa ed alcune caratteristiche del fenomeno non sono ancora ben comprese. In questa tesi viene proposto un metodo di calcolo della posizione della linea di costa in problemi bidimensionali, che suppone di po

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16

Goseberg, Nils [Verfasser]. "The run-up of long waves : laboratory-scaled geophysical reproduction and onshore interaction with macro-roughness elements / Nils Goseberg." Hannover : Technische Informationsbibliothek und Universitätsbibliothek Hannover (TIB), 2011. http://d-nb.info/1015446965/34.

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Ricchiuto, Mario. "Contributions to the development of residual discretizations for hyperbolic conservation laws with application to shallow water flows." Habilitation à diriger des recherches, Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux I, 2011. http://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00651688.

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In this work we review 12 years of developments in the field of residual based discretizations for hyperbolic problems and their application to the solution of the shallow water equations. Fundamental concepts related to the topic are recalled and he construction of second and higher order schemes for steady problems is presented. The generalization to time dependent problems by means of multi-step implicit time integration, space-time, and genuinely explicit techniques is thoroughly discussed. Finally, the issues of C-property, super consistency, and wetting/drying are analyzed in this framew

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18

Dawe, Iain Nicholas. "Longshore Sediment Transport on a Mixed Sand and Gravel Lakeshore." Thesis, University of Canterbury. Geography, 2006. http://hdl.handle.net/10092/1303.

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This thesis examines the processes of longshore sediment transport in the swash zone of a mixed sand and gravel shoreline, Lake Coleridge, New Zealand. It focuses on the interactions between waves and currents in the swash zone and the resulting sediment transport. No previous study has attempted to concurrently measure wave and current data and longshore sediment transport rates on a mixed sand and gravel lakeshore beach in New Zealand. Many of these beaches, in both the oceanic and lacustrine environments, are in net long-term erosion. It is recognised that longshore sediment transport is a

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Dai, Ting-Yu, and 戴廷育. "Field study of wave run-up." Thesis, 2009. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/ub3qh9.

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碩士<br>國立中山大學<br>海洋環境及工程學系研究所<br>97<br>It is important to estimate the quantity of wave run-up and overtopping in seawall design. Previous study on the investigations of run-up is carried out mostly in the laboratories, it seldom perform in field measurements. About previous wave run-up equation can’t accurately estimate run-up elevation. According to run-up data, this study hope that it can make the formula to meet the actual local situation. It can have a better reference by designing coastal structures. This paper study wave run-up during five typhoons by Kalmaegi ,Fung-Wong,Nuri, Hagupit,an

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20

Curi, Fuad. "Reliability analysis of wave run-up." Thesis, 2002. http://hdl.handle.net/2429/12054.

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Assessing the run-up arising from ocean waves as they reach a coastal or offshore structure is an important aspect of engineering projects. By combining formulations for calculating the run-up of regular waves with wave statistical descriptions, a procedure is implemented to assess wave run-up in random sea conditions. This procedure uses the First and Second Order Reliability Methods. It is applied to four cases representing common coastal structures: vertical wall, vertical cylinder, smooth impermeable slope and rough permeable slope. The results of the reliability methods are compared

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Chen, Yung-Tsang, and 陳永倉. "Numerical investigation of solitary wave propagation and run-up." Thesis, 2007. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/91458807940996198609.

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碩士<br>國立臺灣海洋大學<br>海洋環境資訊學系<br>95<br>Abstract Tsunamis are usually generated by the impulsive seafloor movement in deep water due to undersea earthquakes. When tsunami propagates at speed of 150~215m/s to the nearshore, larger amplitude due to shoaling and destructive force acting on the coastal area will lead to a serious damage. Due to their similarities, solitary waves are often used to investigate the characteristics of tsunami. In particular, the multi-layer Boussinesq model developed by Lynett and Liu (2004) was employed to investigate the dynamics of solitary wave evolutions over a comp

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Li, Ying. "Tsunamis : non-breaking and breaking solitary wave run-up." Thesis, 2000. https://thesis.library.caltech.edu/6110/1/Li_y_2000.pdf.

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This study considers the run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on a smooth sloping beach. A non-linear theory and a numerical model solving the non-linear shallow water equations (NLSW) were developed to model this physical process. Various experiments to obtain wave amplitude time-histories, water particle velocities, wave free-surface profiles, and maximum run-up were conducted and the results were compared with the analytical and numerical models. A higher order theoretical solution to the non-linear shallow water equations, which describes the non-breaking wave characteristic

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Yu-TingLee and 李昱霆. "Mitigation of long wave run-up using submerged breakwaters." Thesis, 2016. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/13482108688928894123.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系<br>104<br>SUMMARY Taiwan is an island located in the Ring of Fire such that earthquakes occurred frequently. Observing the surrounding seabed topography, northeast and southwest coastal area of Taiwan is relatively gentle and extensively flat, which is suitable for the shoaling and amplification processes of tsunamis, which means that Taiwan is a high potential area of tsunami catastrophe. Recalling the 2004 India Ocean tsunami and the 2011 Tohoku earthquake tsunami, tsunami were caused by mega scale earthquakes that brought tremendous catastrophe in the disaster regi

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Cheng, Li-Chung, and 鄭力中. "Numerical Simulation by FLOW-3D on the Wave Set-up and Run-up." Thesis, 2017. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/x4q9m4.

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碩士<br>國立中山大學<br>海洋環境及工程學系研究所<br>105<br>The calculation of run-up is usually estimated by the offshore maximum wave height. Nevertheless, the higher wave height with the same period result in larger wave steepness. A wave will break earlier by the shoaling effect with larger wave steepness. On the contrary, A wave will break later with smaller wave steepness. Therefore, the major issue of this study is to analysis whether the wave result in larger run-up and set-up with larger wave steepness or not. A computational fluid dynamics software called “FLOW-3D” is used to simulate this study. Th

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Li, Yi-Syuan, and 李宜軒. "Run-up and wave height evolution of breaking solitary waves on sloping beaches." Thesis, 2007. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/19855981856946379570.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班<br>95<br>This is a study of runup and wave height evolution of breaking solitary waves on sloping beaches. The process of wave height evolution and the time series water level variation from shoaling to runup were observed through laboratory experiments. The experiments including three different slopes 1/20, 1/40 and 1/60 were conducted in Super Tank of Tainan Hydraulic Laboratory. Solitary waves were generated by moving the wave plate forward in the manner of ramp trajectory(R-wave) and solitary-wave trajectory(solitary wave). There are three water depth on slope

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FANG, YONG-SHENG, and 方勇勝. "Wave run-up and pressures on a smooth sloping seawall." Thesis, 1992. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/61728704582778987220.

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Lan, Tsung-Yi, and 藍聰義. "An Experimental Study on Wave Run-up over a Seawall." Thesis, 2004. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/48wsvw.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班<br>92<br>This paper is aimed to investigate the relationship between wave run-up over the seawall and the physical properties of outer-layer structure. To achieve this, a series of experimental tests were conducted. In these tests, a total of five types of porous material were disposed, respectively, on the surface of the seawall model, then wave run-up over the porous material were measured under various wave conditions. Two different seawall slopes were included, and five material thickness were adopted. Based on experimental results, it is observed that wav

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Zhan-JunHou and 侯展鈞. "An Extension of Mild-Slope Equation for Simulating Wave Run-up." Thesis, 2013. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/71811964209480149983.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班<br>101<br>A numerical model was developed for simulating wave run-up after wave breaking over a sloping beach. This model is decoupled by the wave model of EEMSE (evolution equation for mild-slope equation) as well as the wave run-up model of LSWWE (linear shallow-water wave equations). Experimental data of Mase et al. (1984) and Hsu et al. (2012) were used to perform the regression analysis. The result lead to a regression formula which was applied as the input wave conditions for the prediction of wave run-up as LSWWE was used. The model was applied to simulate

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Chen, Yueh-Heng, and 陳玥亨. "Experiments on the Influence of Wave Breaking and Bragg Reflection on Wave Run-Up by Submerged Breakwaters." Thesis, 2018. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/6t99ju.

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碩士<br>國立中興大學<br>土木工程學系所<br>106<br>Coastal environmental protection nowadays is an important issue in coastal field. The coastal protection countermeasures have been evolved into multiple functions. Submerged breakwater was recognized that it may reduce wave incident energy but also preserve coastal landscape. General submerged breakwater forces the wave breaking on the top of the breakwaters to decay the incident wave energy to achieve the effect of coastal protection. Another arrangement is the series submerged breakwaters to induce larger wave reflection and reduce wave transmission, called

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Lee, Yen-Chen, and 李彥枝. "Using a Vertically-stratified Porous Apron to Reduce Wave Run-up over a Seawall." Thesis, 2003. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/84595074849635341312.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班<br>91<br>This paper is aimed to continue the efforts of Chen (2002), trying to verify the theory developed by Twu et al. (2001). This work is performed by conducting experimental tests on wave run-up over a seawall with various aprons installed in front of the seawall. The aprons are made of porous material with different length, height and number of slices. It is shown that the wave run-up over the seawall decreases with increasing porosity if a single-sliced apron is used. However if a double-sliced is adopted to replace a single-sliced apron, the wave run-up

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Hsu, Chen-Jui, and 許晟睿. "UAV observation and analytical approach to the wave run-up on a natural beach." Thesis, 2018. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/7shf96.

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碩士<br>國立交通大學<br>土木工程系所<br>107<br>Wave run-up is an important factor in the coastal sediments. Few previous studies on in-site wave run-up were fulfilled due to complexity of run-up in a natural beach and limited for in-site observation. In this study an unmanned aerial system was set up to have living recording the whole process of wave run-up. Through coordinate transformation between image coordinates and world coordinates for each photo instant wave run-up along the shoreline were computed and some analytical solution were proposed for the motion to explore the characteristics of bore run-u

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Cheng, Wei-Jei, and 程偉傑. "Reducing Effect On the Wave Run-up Over the Seawall by a Porous Apron." Thesis, 2002. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/3k2x8w.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班<br>90<br>This study is to investigate the reducing effect on the wave run-up over the seawall by a porous apron .The apron is designed to serve two major purposes. One of them is to protect the seabed at the toe of the seawall from scouring. The other is to attenuate the incoming waves. To achieve this, the bottom of the apron is made of a solid plate. And upper part of it must be a porous structure. Three types of porous media have been used as the material for the upper part of the apron. They are referred to as material A, B and C, and their porosities are 0.9,

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Liang, Luo Gwo, and 駱國良. "The study of the effect of roughness to wave run-up on composite slope." Thesis, 1994. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/19350207926599499144.

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碩士<br>國立中央大學<br>土木工程研究所<br>82<br>The effect of roughness of composite slopes on the mitigation of wave run-up is explored in this study. Model tests are performed in a wave flume with irregular-wave conditions. The parameters affect the wave run-up such as roughness, berm width, and water depth are analyzed based on the test data. There are some relationships between the roughness and relative run-up. When the roughness is larger and the berm width is longer, the relative wave run-up is slo

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Shih, Han-Chen, and 施翰辰. "A Numerical Study on the Influence of Wave Breaking and Bragg Reflection on Wave Run-Up by Submerged Breakwaters." Thesis, 2018. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/vhjut3.

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碩士<br>國立中興大學<br>土木工程學系所<br>106<br>The purpose of this study is aimed to investigate the influence of wave breaking and Bragg reflection on the wave run-up by submerged breakwaters. This study used computational fluid dynamics to analyze the characteristics of wave flow field, reflection coefficient, transmittion coefficient and run-up height. The numerical model is based on general Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations associated with renormalization group turbulent closure model by using volume of fluid technique, which are implemented by FLOW-3D. The experimental data by Ting and Kirby (

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Shih, Shyuer-ming. "Processes of sea-cliff erosion on the Oregon coast : from neotectonics to wave run-up /." 1992. http://hdl.handle.net/1957/12948.

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Lin, Dai-Wei, and 林岱瑋. "Laboratory Simulation Study of Wave Run-up and Temperature ariation on Seawall by Applying Pervious Concrete." Thesis, 2010. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/45029758978577136198.

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碩士<br>朝陽科技大學<br>營建工程系碩士班<br>99<br>Pervious concrete is a special type of porous concrete with high permeability, multi-porous and rough surface characteristics. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) believes that properly using pervious concrete in pavement is the best method to control the first-flush pollution and storm water management. The permeable concrete contains a lot of holes, which can not only keep water to enhance the capability of exchanging heat and water between surface and air, but also can decline the surface temperature to reduce the urban heat island effect. Acco

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Chih-HsinChen and 陳志欣. "Simulations of Wave Run-up and Overtopping at Irregular Coastal Structures Using Mass-Conserved Boundary Method." Thesis, 2011. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/10429162056479111547.

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Chen, Chien-Chih, and 陳建志. "An Experimental Study on Wave Run-up over a Seawall with porous cover-layer and front apron." Thesis, 2005. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/70013894777696475180.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班<br>93<br>The cover-layer and the apron of a seawall were considered to be placed with porous structure. Then the effects of the physical property of the porous structure on the wave run-up over the seawall were investigated experimentally. In the experiments, the thickness of the porous cover-layer was chosen as 0.2 times water depth. Then the wave run-up tests were conducted at various wave conditions, having the thickness and length of the apron changed from case to case. A total of four types of porous structures were adopted and two kinds of seawall slopes wer

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Chen陳靖夫, Jing-Fu, and 陳靖夫. "The CFD Simulation of Run-Up Heights and Wave Loads by Considering the Foundation Types of Offshore Wind Turbines." Thesis, 2015. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/98808373310005121824.

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Izadparast, Amir Hossein. "Semi-empirical Probability Distributions and Their Application in Wave-Structure Interaction Problems." Thesis, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/1969.1/ETD-TAMU-2010-12-8763.

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In this study, the semi-empirical approach is introduced to accurately estimate the probability distribution of complex non-linear random variables in the field of wavestructure interaction. The structural form of the semi-empirical distribution is developed based on a mathematical representation of the process and the model parameters are estimated directly from utilization of the sample data. Here, three probability distributions are developed based on the quadratic transformation of the linear random variable. Assuming that the linear process follows a standard Gaussian distribution, the th

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Chang, Yu hsuan, and 張裕弦. "Study on Run-up of Solitary Waves over Sloping Bottoms." Thesis, 2008. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/54357992687872978004.

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博士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班<br>96<br>The run-up of solitary waves was investigated experimentally and theoretically in this study. A series of large-scale laboratory experiments was carried out in the Super Tank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m) at Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory. On the plane beach of three slopes 1:20, 1:40 and 1:60, the wave evolution and maximum run-up heights of solitary waves were experimentally investigated by two different controls of wave generation as ramp-trajectory and Goring’s (1978) method. Another series of large-scale experiments was performed on a 1:20 sloping bottom to ac

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Lee, Yi-Fang, and 李宜芳. "Run-up and Overtopping of Solitary Waves around a Seawall." Thesis, 2009. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/74609516404949450411.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班<br>97<br>In present study a 2-D numerical viscous wave model was developed and applied to represent propagation of a solitary wave over a seawall on a real sea bed including run-up or overtopping phenomena. The numerical model solved the unsteady, two dimensional Reynolds Average Navier-Stokes (RANS) equation and the turbulent model ( model) for simulating the realistic fluid. A hybrid particle level set method was incorporated to capture the complex free surface. An immersed boundary method was adapted to present the behavior of fluid flow in the vicinity of i

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Li-FanYang and 楊立帆. "Numerical Simulation of Regular Waves Run-up on a Sloping Bed." Thesis, 2012. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/04267972537408288033.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班<br>100<br>In present study, a 2-D numerical viscous wave flume was applied to represent the characteristic of wave and flow field as regular waves run-up on a sloping bed. The unsteady, two-dimensional Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations and the turbulence model ( model) were solved for simulating the behavior of real fluid. The level set method and the particle level set method were adopted to capture the complex free surface evolution. The Mass-Conserved Boundary Method (MCBM) was applied to represent the fluid-solid interaction in the vicinity of

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Hung, Chung Hung, and 洪俊宏. "An Experimental Study for Irregular Waves Run-up on Coastal Structure." Thesis, 1995. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/78142839205210361972.

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Lin, Duo-min. "Run-up and nonlinear propagation of oceanic internal waves and their interactions." Thesis, 1996. https://thesis.library.caltech.edu/5066/1/Lin_dm_1996.pdf.

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NOTE: Text or symbols not renderable in plain ASCII are indicated by [...]. Abstract is included in .pdf document. A weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive oceanic internal long wave (ILW) model, in analogy with the generalized Boussinesq's (gB) model, is developed to investigate generation and propagation of internal waves (IWs) in a system of two-layer fluids. The ILW model can be further derived to give a bidirectional ILW model for facilitating calculations of head-on collisions of nonlinear internal solitary waves (ISWs). The important nonlinear features, such as phase shift of ISWs resu

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Ta-YuHuang and 黃大祐. "Simulation of Propagation and Run-up of Landslide-induced Waves Using Meshless Method." Thesis, 2012. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/40233346145865550612.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系碩博士班<br>100<br>A two-dimensional numerical model using radial basis functions (RBFs) and collocation points for resolving the Laplace equation is presented in this study. This method is a general meshless method called RBF collocation method. The basic concept of RBF collocation method is to approximate the solution of a PDE as a linear combination of RBFs. The main framework of the present model is developed by Wu and Chang (2011), and is added with the wave-sending boundary, radiation boundary and ability for simulating the moving boundary problem by this study. Two

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Zhang, Jin E. "I. Run-up of ocean waves on beaches. II. Nonlinear waves in a fluid-filled elastic tube." Thesis, 1996. https://thesis.library.caltech.edu/56/1/Zhang_je_1996.pdf.

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Part I This study considers the three-dimensional run-up of long waves on a horizontally uniform beach of vertically constant or variable slope which is connected to an open ocean of uniform depth. An inviscid linear long-wave theory is first applied to obtain the fundamental solution for a uniform train of sinusoidal waves obliquely incident upon a uniform beach of variable downward slope without wave breaking. The linearly superposable solutions provide a basis for subsequent comparative studies when the nonlinear and dispersive effects are taken into account, both separately and jointl

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Ming-YangShih and 史名揚. "Simulation of Propagation and Run-up of Three Dimensional Landslide-induced Waves Using Meshless Method." Thesis, 2016. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/ty74py.

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碩士<br>國立成功大學<br>水利及海洋工程學系<br>104<br>This research is basically focused on 3-D water wave induced by landslide. Since it involves moving boundaries and large deformation of the computational domain, a 3-D numerical model is established with a meshless method and a fully nonlinear Lagrangian time marching scheme. Robust local polynomial collocation method which developed in the way that the collocations have to satisfy governing and boundary condition if it is the boundary point used in this study. This method is more efficient and accurate than the RBF-collocation method. Furthermore, due to it

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Chen, Chun-Jen, and 陳俊仁. "A Numerical Study on the Influence of a Breakwater to Flow Field and Run-up of Solitary Waves." Thesis, 2013. http://ndltd.ncl.edu.tw/handle/13165638393351516715.

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碩士<br>國立中興大學<br>土木工程學系所<br>101<br>This study investigated on the influence of a breakwater to flow field and run-up of solitary waves. A two-dimensional volume of fluid (VOF) type model called FLOW-3D, which is based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations and the Renormalized Group k-Ɛ turbulence model, is validated by experimental data from Synolakis (1986). The results show that solitary waves passing through the breakwater, a jet-like flow injects the surface at the lee side. We also notice that the vortex generated at the top and lee-side of the breakwater. The vortex stre

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